Coosa Bluewater 26 Series 4x8 foot marine sheeting is appx $400 @ (but this is the very thick stuff: 1.5 inches).
Be aware also that Coosa composite panels have a specific/limited list of adhesives that can be used to bond this stuff to itself or to/with other materials: http://www.coosacomposites.com/pdfs/coosa_adhesivelist.pdf
They recommend that you contact the adhesive manufacturer for specific application/adhesive advice(!).
Coosa makes a 26 Series in 0.5, 0.75 and 1.0 inches thick (I'd guestimate the 1 inch thick Coosa 26 to be in the $240~$290 range per 4x8 foot sheet). So, for roughly $1100, you could replace all 4 walls of your camper (and, cabover section, too) + your labor input. Retain and use your Ute's existing fiberglass to cap the Coosa. While you're at it, you might as well replace all your water filler parts, fridge vents, etc...all the old plastic exterior "stuff".
There are more makers of composite board to look at:
1)Penske Board (check out ther pricing, too);
2)Spaceage Synthetics (looks VERY similar to Coosa).
Try "Merritt Marine Supply" wholesaler for Coosa (they also sell Nida-Core 3M panels). Shipping may be costly, so investigate this closely.
OK then; rock-and-roll !! :B
I'd do a total Coosa 4 wall (suspend the camper roof wth Weblon softwall attached), and just keep the tub with cabinetry/appliances attached...
Is the roof really rotted/leaking ?? What little of the roof I can see seems good. If you probe the roof and it is good (and dry), then your next concern are the camper shell side walls.
IMO (I own a similar camper, however, made by Outfitter):
Your water intrusion is/appears to come from where the camper shell soft-wall bottom perimeter is clamped-down to camper shell by that aluminum trim. The manufacturer suggests repairing (or, replacing with their new composite side-walls?) the port and starboard sides of the camper, and gave you a separate price for a new composite roof.
It seems that you are into this camper for roughly $6000 ~ $7000, yes?
If I were in your shoes, I would have Hallmark replace completely the camper shell sidewalls with their new composite sidewalls (one-piece) and repair the entire cab-over section (this will bring your total investment up to $ ????).....but I don't know...this is a tough one.
If the roof is gone, you'll likely have to sink that $10,000+ into it (or, re-build 65% of the entire camper yourself! These are really complex campers and may be 1-piece in many areas, and that roof can be extremely tricky to re-build IF the roof trusses are wood and water compromised: think about that soft-wall, and removing it and re-stretching it to a completely new roof AND new side-walls if the roof trusses and wood roof deck are gone, this could be a nightmare (or, outright impossible to accomplish) if its not done by the manufacturer with special equipment/expertise).
*one of the probable reasons why Hallmark mentions replacing softwalls in your above quote could be that the new composite roof may need a different softwall MATING pattern entirely (length/distance/pleat/cut)??
Have you tried your insurance company? An insurance company would for sure write it off, and at least you'd get part of your investment back.
The sprayed (or treated clothing) emits a field of effective insect toxin for days or weeks that seems to behave like an invisible force field; when flying or crawling (say, tics) insects get within a certain distance of the treated material, the neurotoxin in the permethryn (the active ingredient includes pyrethrins) instantly disorients and takes them out.
Our personal experience with Southwest gnats:
We always get nailed by these pinon gnats in the Hovenweep area (man, are they hellacious there in spring!). Our solution (at camp) is: a large micro-screened kitchen tent we can do everything in, and several cans of permethrin spray (EPA specs here--> ).
Permethrin spray can't be applied to skin, but can be used (in specific incarnations) to wash all trekking clothing, hats, socks and even entire tent (clothes washing version of this very effective anti bug stuff we've found).
I've used it for years in Central America against black flies, beach gnats and tics, mosquitoes, etc...spraying my house screens, socks, tent, tent screens, shirts, hats and boots. Most of the outdoor permethrin product is manufactured with a polymer that allows the permethrin material to adhere to clothing and everything it is sprayed on for at least a week (or 2).
Anyhow, this has been my personal experience with permethrin, but do your due diligence as for health effects, allergies, etc....Disclaimer: this post is not a recommendation for others to use this product.
I'm more of a "generalist" when t comes to camping advice in Latin America. I've camped in Mexico (Yucatan & Chiapas), Belize, Guatemala, Honduras, Nicaragua, Costa Rica and Panama. Generally, I've camp in remoter locations (when not in a "paid" locale), and always get permission from the land owner. I've found that the remoter the camping location, the fewer hassles I get.
Here's a camping spot fave of mine (on the Mosquito Coast of Honduras):
Anyhow, enjoy your camping experience in Latin America. I had for nearly a decade.
....for what it's worth: we've been offered up to $15.5k for our 2005.5 Caribou 8 (no furnace, no air conditioner, no bathroom) cash here in the "Far East"; just a split-hair less than we paid for it (8 years ago!). But we are NOT planning on selling it (as I sit here in the torrential/pouring rain in the Caribou 8 (soon to turn to snow!) as dry as a scorpion in the Atacama desert, planning a trail construction crew Op. on a rain-drenched mountain-side).
I would hazard a guess at about $17k, perhaps $16k at the lower end.
If the right party sees it (in the East for example), they will pay a premium just because they won't need to spend many $ thousands going out West to cut a factory deal, then to pick it up at delivery (2 trips) !
$120,000 down here in Florida will get you a newer REAL BLOCK, 2,000 sq ft home and more often than not with an inground gunite pool!! And that is for a house that 'was' worth $400,000 and should return close to a figure of $250.000 in a year or two.
...our research has shown that buying a moderate place in a "very nice and safe" neighborhood in a nice part of Florida (with ocean view: a must) to be in the $399k to $500k range during bad times, with ownership costs and HOA in the MINIMUM $11,500++ per annum range (2010 up to yesterday, since then, we have been on the ground looking!). The houses in the most desirable neighborhoods really never crashed in price very far, and square-foot to square-foot compares with homes way in the interior of Florida (way inland we call: 3+ miles inland from the Coast) are vast price differentials.
My decades of travel have shown me that whether you are buying a house in a 3rd World country (even one at war) or the USA/Canada, the best 'hoods with best views (ie. ocean) are all the same price: executive mid to high 6+ figures. You go away from a decent 'hood (anywhere in the World), the prices crash by comparison further down than the Marianas Trench. A great 'hood is a great 'hood, and the prices are exorbitant for said, whether you are shopping in Lebanon, India, Honduras, Ethiopia, Mexico, Indonesia, USA or Canada.
I'll bet that if you ask 100 healthy retiring couples where they would want to park their butt in retirement, ~70 would say: in a place with an ocean view; ~26 would say: in a place with vast views from a mountain slope; and ~4 would say: on flat ground looking at trees/fields with a neighbor potentially partially blocking the view of a string of cell towers. Poster Almot is correct.
If you bought a place for $25k cash in Florida, it's only worth $25k (talking "future value" is meaningless). Real estate prices are extremely regional (ie. a limited geographical scale); are very dependent on the 'hood surrounding you AND neighbors living there-around (your great 'hood can go terribly bad VERY quickly: i.e. you better pay very close weekly attention to your regional crime stats/maps!); will never go very quickly up (especially in this here zero credit market!); and most importantly, if you are in an "home owners" association 'hood, as you mention: you say in a high end 'hood, then you'll be paying HOA (and other costs) to the tune of $8000 to $12,000+ a year for a stand-alone house (far in excess of the comparable cost of RVing anywhere in Florida, but for at the best RV resorts) ! If you are not in an HOA, then thank your lucky stars (or not?). Buying a house in this market (especially in Florida) for later "flipping" is a massive risk; however, if you are buying to retire at that price and really don't plan to sell any time soon in this market, the 'hood stays crime-stable, and you REALLY like the surrounding aesthetics, then OK. Why not?
This event looked to be a smashing success! Great organizational work Steve & BKA !
A huge group assembled, and a successful and fun time it appears.
I've added this Report to the very top of Trip Reports, here-->.
As I transition out of Trip Reports (because of time constraints from other projects), a new and invigorated Trip Reports initiative will be carried on by one of our Global truck camper expeditioners: Sabconsulting.
Please join me in welcoming Sabconsulting (Steve) to this Post sometime in the near future!
Hanwha Azdel Inc. composites has a Lynchburg plant (Forest, Virginia, USA), and Alabama, and Atlanta, Georgia, and Ontario (Canada). This is where the US consumed Azdel product comes from. The plant(s) is quite massive, with a train yard, outdoor composites hoppers for train loading, the works. Hanwha Azdel Inc. is OWNED by the Korean corporation: Hanwha Corporation (or, the Hanwha Group).
Azdel is used in MANY small quantity applications, and shipping a few containers at a time from Korea to the USA would be hellaciously costly (both time-wise and the cost of shipping itself) to their US/Canadian customers (could you imagine !?).
Azdel (from the public patent office) makes light-weight reinforced thermoplastics (LRTs and LWRTs) and low density glass mat thermoplastic composite (GMTs), and hybrid thermoplastic composites (HTPCs).
More great info as read with coffee in hand!
I recall your extremely robust long-term trial running strictly solar to run your Tundra/Apex in searing 29 Palms. I think the Danfoss compressors are pretty well the norm across most (all ?) of the built-in compressor fridges in North America, today.
You mention the ARB portable...this reminds me of the extensive expedition fridge review in my Overland Journal (2 years ago, think?). This may also be the best option (no ripping out absorption, all the mess of installing new compressor). Just buy an ARB, back seat it, plug into 12V, done// Hmmmm?
True. I recall Woodhog's wrting about his "system"...thanks!
Your Outfitter roof "testing" sure does answers so many questions! Sorry it happened but somebody had to do it! Now I don't have to experiment. Didn't want to do it anyway as I'd rather leave it up to a professional. haha
...trust us to scrape branches, run into hail, and drop steel cutting heads on the camper!
From your links, it looks like you've got the NovaKool DC/AC fridge ?
Checking the supplier data, the fridge-only NovaKool draws 2.2 amps (with non modified factory-set compressor speed resistance); the fridge/freezer model draws about 4.5 amps.
Have you run your fridge on battery-only in 85F+ temps? Have you run your fridge on truck-to-camper plug-in charge mode for very long periods (ie. driving 8+ hours) ?