Some fresh water tanks have overflow hoses as you describe, with open ends. Try overfilling the fresh water tank and see if overflow comes out. However, I have no idea why water would come out when the pump comes on. Low point drains typically have a way to close the ends off, as in docnascar's photo, and do not have open ends.
A picture would be helpful.
Also, one of the advertised benefits of the new L pin design is that it holds the L pin up a little bit so that it is not resting directly on the spring arm. One of the complaints about the old design is that the L pin can be slightly loose in its hole, causing it to rest at a slight angle on the sway bar. This can cause it to bind against the spring arm during tight turns and can bend the L pins. This new design will hopefully solve that problem.
The new smaller snap pins that hold the bars to the hitch are a commonly sold item at TSC and come in various sizes and lengths.
Those larger, thicker L pins that hold the sway bars to the L bracket I think are specially made for use with the Equal-i-zer. I have been up and down the isles of my local TSC and have never seen anything like those L pins anywhere. I may be wrong, but I think those are made specifically for the Equal-i-zer and are not commonly available as a hardware item outside the realm of RVs.
Please let me know if I am incorrect, because I would love to be able to buy those thick L pins locally from a hardware or farm store.
..Most of the state parks do not offer full hook ups...
Not sure what states you travel in but I spend most of my time on the road, staying at state, county, municipal and COE campgrounds. I have FHU almost all of the time.
Travel further west, and most state campgrounds have electric only hookups. Many states are starting to add 75 foot long paved pads, 50amp service and full hook-ups to newly constructed state campgrounds and to existing campgrounds as they require construction done on them, but most existing state campgrounds, at least in my neck of the woods in the northern plains, are > 90% 30amp electric-service only.
+1...one should always use a sewer hose regardless of how the dump station is constructed.
Bottom line: buy what you can use within your abilities...
Agreed. This is the key. A basic kit for routine wound care and basic OTC medications should be in everyone's camper. I think one is far better off buying an empty bag/box and stocking it with basic supplies and medications rather than buying the pre-packaged kits.
As an Emergency Physician with Wilderness Medicine training, I have a pretty extensive kit, allowing for advanced wound care, including suturing and bleeding control, joint and fracture splinting, medications, etc. I bought a large medical jump kit from Gall's, stocked it appropriately, and keep it in the camper at all times. I have a smaller, portable stripped-down basic kit (also from Gall's) that I keep in my backpack for hiking excursions.
I too have always had prompt service from e-trailer.
Have you considered an Equal-i-zer? Order today from RVWholesalers and you will likely have it by Wednesday. I am on my second Equal-i-zer and love it.
The new Eagle:
Kids' bunkhouse, including space to mount a TV:
50amp service inside and outside. The building is 36' x 54' with a 12' x 12' overhead door.
I even use it to make egg coffee now and then!
That looks different, I may try that!
It is really just a variation of cowboy coffee, whereby one just boils water with the grounds in it, and does not mess with the percolator. As with egg coffee, I add the cool water to settle the grounds, but I still filter each cup individually as I pour it.
Sylvan Lake it is.
We are heading to the Black Hills during that sweet spot in July, after the July 4 rush but before the Sturgis rally traffic picks up later in the month. I have not been to Sylvan Lake in 15 years. I can't wait!
I brought my new trailer home last week. In a cabinet along with the manuals, remotes, LP quick-connect hoses, and other things, was this small metal tool pictured below. On the long end is a hex head that is about 9/64". Any ideas?
New rig hooked up at the dealership last week (in a sleet storm) and ready for the trip home:
At home and in bed until the first trip next month:
You could try Maxwell House Single Serve coffee bags
Single Coffee Bags
Thanks for the suggestion I assume that they work like Tea bags.
I tried these. I boil water in the morning for my wife's tea anyway, so I thought I could get by with these. I am by no means a coffee snob, but these made terrible coffee.
Making coffee off the grid is indeed challenging. I suggest buying a good old-fashioned campfire percolator for use over a burner. It does take practice. I even use it to make egg coffee now and then!
That is an unusual location for a factory installed light. It makes sense to have one there because of its proximity to hookups and utilities. I Google searched your trailer, and found some photos online of a couple for sale. Neither had that light. Is it possible that this light was added by the previous owner to assist him when hooking up in the dark? Could it be just a tap light where you push on the cover to turn it on/off? Is there a toggle switch on the light itself? Is it just screwed or adhered to the side of the trailer and runs off batteries? Can you remove the housing to see if there are batteries inside?
I for one would not stand still for a direct lie about working the day before. I would call him on that one, even if it means a call to the owner
I hear you but what outcome would you expect? I'm not being a smart ass I just don't see the point. They are all going to say the same thing and at the end of the day it's working . Time to move on I think.
Agreed. I have no intention of making an issue of the whole matter. It would not be constructive at this point. I just thought the whole thing was pretty funny, yet a sad testament to what seems to generally be the accepted norm in the industry.
Outdoor kitchens are equipped with dorm room style compact fridges (that we all had stocked with beer in college) that plug into a standard outlet and run off electricity. They will only run when plugged into shore power.
You are correctly describing the fridges inside RVs that run off electricity and propane. I have a Norcold brand inside the trailer.
I picked up my new trailer this past week, which ultimately resulted in my humility lesson for the week. I am naturally skeptical of dealers and manufacturers in this industry, and I mistakenly let my guard down.
Everything on the PDI looked good. The service technician that was giving me the walkthrough was very helpful and knowledgeable. However, one thing gave me pause. We had the trailer plugged in for 2 hours while doing the walk through, and the outdoor kitchen refrigerator had not kicked on yet. It was not cooling, but I could also hear that the compressor was not running. I brought it up 3 times during the inspection, and was assured by 3 different service techs that it was normal for it to take a while to kick on. They assured me that it was working fine the day before when they were detailing it, and that there was no thermostat or on/off switch. The fridge was either on or off depending on whether the trailer was plugged into shore power.
So, against my better judgement because I had never heard of a fridge without a thermostat control, I relented and figured that it would work once I got it home and plugged it in to shore power at home.
I got home (200 mile one way), plugged it in, and the following day, the fridge is not cooling or running. The fridge is secured to the counter by two metal plates with screws. I reached all over and behind it and could not find a thermostat or on/off switch. I am 6'2" and had to get a step-stool just to be able to reach behind it, and even then it was difficult to get my hand behind it to feel for a switch. I checked the fridge owner's manual. No help. I checked the dedicated outlet it is plugged in to with a tester. Outlet is hot, used the tester to trip the GFI in the bathroom, just as it should. Plugged the fridge in to an extension cord from an outlet in my storage building. Nothing.
So, I called the service department at my dealer, talked to one of the guys from the day before, asking him for any troubleshooting tips. He again said that there is no on/off switch or thermostat, and it was working fine 2 days prior. He said he would do some checking and get back to me. I then emailed Jayco. They have been fantastic. I emailed them 3-4 times with questions leading up to my purchase, and they always got back to me promptly with helpful detailed responses, including one response with an attachment of a schematic drawing to help me hang a TV wall mount. The response from Jayco was also that the fridge should just turn on or off depending on the presence of shore power.
So, my conclusion is that the fridge is bad. No big deal. I have read on this forum about it happening before. It would obviously be covered under warranty, but since it would cost me about $150 in fuel (about what the fridge is worth) and a full day of my time to drive to my dealer, I figured I would just buy a new one. If my dealer did not want to reimburse me, no big deal.
So, I removed the keeper plates, took the fridge down, and set it on the ground. That is when I noticed the off/on/thermostat dial on the back side of the fridge, in the "off" position. So, I plugged it in, turned it up, and it immediately kicked on, and has been working fine ever since.
I love stories like these. I used to think that no one on earth could possibly be as oblivious to their surroundings as to sit in their RV in the fuel lane and eat while others are waiting to fuel up. Then I started working in a field where dealing with oblivious morons is a daily occurrence, and somehow these stories are no longer far-fetched or the least bit surprising.