RE: Leaving 5th Wheel Hitch Hanging on Kingpin
I agree would like to know how guys end up hooking it back up? Do you get lucky and line it all up or do you drop it back in the bed and hook it all back up and the reconnect.
Raise it a little high.
Back under as best you can and drop it as close as possible. Then its just a matter of wrassling it into place. You would have to do that if you lift it in by hand but the worst of the lifting it done by the landing gear.
Still far easier than lifting it in and out of the bed by hand.
I will agree with the others in regards to locking it while hanging, so someone doesn't accidentaly release it.
No worries at all about it being enough weight to damage the trailer frame.
RE: Beachfront Camping
Head north, young man.
Michgan has many state parks on beautiful fresh water oceans. If you like sand, the Lake Michigan coast is one long sandy beach.
RE: Merging onto an Interstate
Actually, the key word is yield. That's the law in most states...and most drivers fail to yield when they enter the highway.
Perhaps a lot of the problem is that this is law in a lot of the states like you say but many and where I come from both drivers SHARE the right of way. It's up to the driver in the right lane to either move over (if possible) or make room for the driver merging. It's up to the driver merging to move into that gap. If we are required to yield right of way than to merge then there will be a Yield sign.
Unfortunately.... there are many here who cannot grasp this concept where they will either refuse to let someone merge or will stop on the onramp piling up traffic behind them.
In the boating world, they have changed the terminology to the "stand on vessel" and it applies equally well here. It doesn't change the rules it just eliminates the misperception that as the vehicle with ROW, you get to mess with the other drivers.
It is still very important that drivers know what to expect from other drivers. The driver in the right lane is obliged to maintian a steady speed, so the merging traffic can pick a gap.
Have you ever been trying to merge and suddenly the vehicle in the right lane decides to "help" you out and speed up while you are accelerating to get in front of them...then you slam on the breaks to get behind them but at the same time, they realize you were trying to get in front, so they slam on thier brakes...
If you are in the right lane, your responsibility is to hold a steady speed. The merging vehicles responsibility is to find a gap and match speed.
RE: What kind of mount for my turbines for the sides of my 5thy
You could get one of the flagpole mounts that you park the wheel on and beef it up with larger poles. That would get you two.
Unless, you are trying to do something crazy like running the AC off 12V, just get 1 or 2 larger units for simplicity. I suppose you could weld a mount to the hitch as that's a sturdy location to get a 3rd mounting point.
I'm curious what the purpose is.
Also, I wouldn't want to park near you on a windy day as they get noisy.
RE: Prices for a new roof.. Who knew?!
A big assumption here but what is the quality of the cheap bid? It may be well worth the cost for quality work.
Too many differences to just assume they were trying to cheat the guy.
In a totally unrealted field, we sometimes get requests for bids on work that we are very capable of doing but isn't in our focus. After trying to steer them to other firms if they really want us to bid, we simply give them a price high enough to justify being sidetracked onto work that isn't our bread and butter. This sounds like work that isn't consistent with a lot of the mobile guys and there could be a big hassle factor as he has to get it done in a day or risk weather damaging the unit so he's covering himself.
A simple, I'm sorry but I got a significantly lower estimate from company ABC would have sufficed to get the message across without the attitude.
1997 Sunnybrooke 27RKFS - Axle
I'm away from the fifth wheel.
I need the axle info to buy brakes.
It's 8200GVWR with 15"x6" wheels. I know they are Dexter Axles but not the model.
Poking around on the web, I haven't had any luck finding info.
Any help would be appreciated.
RE: Merging onto an Interstate
Where I'm familiar, I try to use interchanges with longer ramps.
The signals on ramps are "ramp metering" signals. They are intended to limit the amount of traffic entering the freeway. There is a phenomemon as demand approaches capacity, you reach a breaking point at which capacity actually drops. If you can keep it just below capacity, you are maximizing the thruput on the freeway. That said, it's far from a cure all. If you hold traffic up for too long, the will just ignore the signal.
Weave Lanes: Generally, they are to be avoided on new construction for the reasons discussed but there are trade offs. Where interchanges are closely spaced and volumes are heavy, they may be the best option available.
Merging: The vehicles on the freeway can move to the left if they choose but legally, they are obliged to hold a steady speed so merging traffic can choose a gap. What they can't do is intentially speed up or slow down to stop someone from merging.
Punch it: sort of true. The goal is to match the speed on the freeway. With a slow accelerating vehicle and a short ramp, that can translate to punch it.
RE: Used Motor Homes not taken care of!
Especially in the big expensive unit's we see a lot of folks who've never owned one and don't know what maintenance is required.
By the time, the realize they should have been doing something, it's no longer simple maintenance.
I don't think a dealer will help. The worst units we saw when looking were at dealers.
RE: Who drives a F-350 as their sole vehicle and likes it?
The bottom line question: How much of the 18k is doing truck stuff vs just driving around.
If you are doing 15k towing and 3k commuting, the truck makes sense financially.
If it's 3k towing and 15k commuting, the fuel savings will probably justify getting an econobox.
Just plug in the expected milage and the expected MPG (towing vs driving around) and you will have the cost difference.
As far as comfort, Tammy was scared at first driving around Miami when we were there for a few months. Once she realized the bmw's merging were more scared of her, she was fine.
RE: Too old to continue traveling ? Grown children urging ..
The next time you are over, pull out a measuring tape and go to the master bedroom. When she asks what you are doing, just tell her you are measuring it for you new furnature. Since she is so concerned, obviously, she doesn't want you very far away. ;)
Seriously, if you can honestly say you are fine to drive and no serious medical issues, politely point this out and move on.
RE: Fifth wheel
Assuming the truck has a tow rating consistent with the LOADED weight of the trailer shouldn't be much of a problem.
We like our old 7.3 but that was because we got a deal on it used. No way we could justify a diesel on the old fuel savings idea. Between the extra $10-12k on the purchase price and the extra 30c/gal for diesel, the math just doesn't work (maybe if you do an insane amount of towing). Long gone are the days of a gas engine being worn out at 100k miles so longevity hardly factors in anymore.
The reason to get a diesel is if you exceed the towing capability of the gas engine or...you want one. They are nice but if you are trying to make a financial based desicion, you won't buy one for a moderate sized 5er.
Interestingly, our old 7.3 only had 180hp coming off the assembly line. The bottom of the line gas V8's of today usually have at least 250hp. While we will never come to a stop due to torque, climbing a long grade, it's HP that allows you to keep the speed up and the gas engine will do better.
you're comparing apples to oranges. Comparing them equally ( using GM since that's what I own) the 6L makes 360HP/380TQ where the duramax makes 397HP/765TQ so not only does it smash the gas burner in torque it also makes more HP. Which do you do more of? Tow long grades or start and stop? I also find it still very relevant to compare it financially because if you regularly tow the diesel will be cheaper over the life of the truck if for nothing else than resale value. Tell someone you put 100k miles on a gas burner towing a 10k pound trailer and see how fast they run. Tell that same person you put 100k on a diesel towing that same weight and it's no big deal.
To the first point, if 360hp/380tq is sufficent, the extra power from the diesel is wasted. My point of discussing the old girl is in her day she was a towing machine but had nothing close to the power of the new diesels.
We'll just have to disagree on what is a worn out engine. 100k on a gas engine is no big deal in todays world. I'm going to look more at condition. Even though the resale will be higher with a diesel, you may get $2k out of your $10k back so you are still lossing a lot.
If it makes you happy, buy a diesel. Unless we find another deal, when we replace the old girl, it will likely be gas power as we are similarly in the 7-9k range for the trailer.
RE: automatic vs manual transmission
It's not me downgrading the the performance of manual transmissions, it is in the specifications link I posted earlier off the Chrysler site. The same downgrade was specified with Ford when I was shopping in 2005 and that was the reason I chose the automatic. It's not me making opinion calls which transmission is better because I already stated I prefer manuals and chose the automatic due to manufacturer ratings.
Since this is the truck camper section, I doubt you will exceed the ability of a manual.
Never had a problem with a failed clutch. Assuming you know how to drive one, either option is very reliable.
I prefer the control of a manual but the one situaiton that might push me towards an automatic would be if we were doing a lot of city driving.
My truck also tows when hauling the TC. This month I will be over 19K lbs GCW on a 2500 mile trip (Seattle-Barstow) and in June will be on another trip twice as long (Seattle-St Louis) and possibly 500-1000 lbs heavier. I'm within my 23K lb GCWR, but definitely not cruising around with lightweight TC and nothing hung off the hitch. For me, my shortest trips are the lightest (11K lbs GVW) and the ones going over the mountain ranges always seem to be the most loaded...
FYI: In the past I was replacing a clutch about every 100K miles towing 5000 lbs with 4-cylinder gasoline and diesel engines. The gas engine was mated to a transfer case due to 4x4 and had less stress retrieving boats, but was also used on off-road technical trails that required frequent clutch engagement/disengagement even when in low range.
I believe you misread my comment. I never said to exceed the manufacturers rating. As long as you stay within the rating and odds are the OP is with a truck camper (and a medium size boat that he never mentioned), there is no reason to be concerned.
Someone posted something a while back that makes sense. They suggested that the manufacturers de-rated the manual transmissions because they didn't want to deal with warranty and reputation issues when people who didn't know what they were doing trashed the manual transmission.
A 4cyl mostly pulling out boats and off roading, is not a very good comparison. That is about the worst case senario for a clutch. Lots of hard starts while going uphill. Also, the 4cyl probably had a transmission intended for light duty work. No wonder, you had to replace the clutch regularly. Not comparable to what we are discussing.
On a side note: I guess I'm a wimp but even with the modern hydraulic clutches, after an hour in a traffic jam moving up 20' at a time, I'll give the automatic it's due.
RE: Fifth wheel
Assuming the truck has a tow rating consistent with the LOADED weight of the trailer shouldn't be much of a problem.
We like our old 7.3 but that was because we got a deal on it used. No way we could justify a diesel on the old fuel savings idea. Between the extra $10-12k on the purchase price and the extra 30c/gal for diesel, the math just doesn't work (maybe if you do an insane amount of towing). Long gone are the days of a gas engine being worn out at 100k miles so longevity hardly factors in anymore.
The reason to get a diesel is if you exceed the towing capability of the gas engine or...you want one. They are nice but if you are trying to make a financial based desicion, you won't buy one for a moderate sized 5er.
Interestingly, our old 7.3 only had 180hp coming off the assembly line. The bottom of the line gas V8's of today usually have at least 250hp. While we will never come to a stop due to torque, climbing a long grade, it's HP that allows you to keep the speed up and the gas engine will do better.
RE: automatic vs manual transmission
Since this is the truck camper section, I doubt you will exceed the ability of a manual.
Never had a problem with a failed clutch. Assuming you know how to drive one, either option is very reliable.
I prefer the control of a manual but the one situaiton that might push me towards an automatic would be if we were doing a lot of city driving.
RE: Michigan State Parks should offer Seasonal/Monthly Sites
No.
It's a solution in search of a problem.
We've done some early season camping and they openly let us exceed the 14 days because the park was empty. The second you keep weekenders who are taxpayers out, you lost the arguement.
RE: 5th wheels vs motor homes
If some "Goon" threatens us, I can just sitdown and drive away. I don't have to confront him while trying to get to the tow vehicle.
Also the DW refuses to drive a truck when we get where we are going. :)
That is by far the 2 funniest reasons to own a motor home vs. a 5th wheel. I keep picturing you 'saving' yourself by slowly raising your landing gear, firing up the diesel, slides slowly coming in, hoses ripping out of the ground... all the while the DW is saying "thank God I'm not running to get in a truck to get out of this Compton gangland campground!" hahahahaha.
Thank you for that post. Just awesome.
This cracks me up. Too funny. I can picture it now:B
If they do a sequel to RV, they need to include this. I can just picture Robin Williams face as half the campgrounds wiring follows them out of the campground.
RE: 5th wheels vs motor homes
If some "Goon" threatens us, I can just sitdown and drive away. I don't have to confront him while trying to get to the tow vehicle.
Very useful if you are into gangland camping. ;)
RE: 5th wheels vs motor homes
When you compare apples to apples, the 5er is cheaper to purchase. Keep in mind, the front 4-6' of a MH is basically lost space once you park. Also a $125k 5er is probably equivilent to a $3-500k MH, so even after adding the cost of a truck, you are still way ahead.
In terms of maintenance: Again the 5er wins. You can take a pickup into any autoshop and they will know how to handle it. With a MH, you often wind up going to specialty shops and buying specialty parts with specialty prices.
Fuel economy: From reading various responses over the years, a 5er can expect 10-12mpg and MH's run 5-8mpg. You will be hard pressed saving enough fuel driving the toad to cover the balance out the extra fuel the MH uses. Plus half the idea is to set up the rig near what you want to see. If you are driving huge distances in the toad on a regular basis, I suggest finding a campsite closer to what you want to see.
Set up: We can be set up in just about the same amount of time as a MH. Then again, it's not a race. Especially if you are using it regularly, you get in a rythm and it takes us 10-15 minutes on either end without rushing. If we had automated stuff, we could probably trim that down. Also, if you pull a toad, there is no backing into a site until you unhook, negating the supposed benefit. I always find it funny that people seem to be afraid to leave the rig when setting up as if that's an advantage. If I don't feel safe getting out, I'm probably moving on to someplace safer. If it's raining, I can just plug in, drop the legs and hang out in the 5er in total comfort until the rain lets up in just a couple minutes.
I'm hard pressed to find any significant advantage to a MH over a 5er except as someone mentioned, "you look cool driving one". The exception would be if you get one of the small class B units and skip the toad. Then I can see some advantages for being able to be on the move quickly but it comes at the expense of having to tear down the campsite every time you want to go to the store. In that case a truck camper may be a better option, as you have the option to drop the camper at the site getting the best of both worlds.
RE: Full-Timing on a budget
If you will be stationary for months at a time, I would steer you towards a 5th wheel or travel trailer. You can get a real nice truck and trailer for that kind of money. If you don't want to drive the truck all the time, tag team with a small car chasing when you move.
Vehicle drive trains don't like to sit for months at a time.
