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 > Your search for posts made by 'valhalla360' found 528 matches.

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  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: hello. im new here. I have a sailboat....

We flip back and forth. As others have said, it's really very similar. Assuming you are comfortable already living in small spaces there isn't much to it. Personally we went with the truck and trailer approach as it's one less drivetrain to maintain but there is nothing inherently wrong with a motorhome if you can get a good deal.
valhalla360 12/17/14 02:57pm Beginning RVing
RE: How hard are these RVs to drive?

Out on the road, not much difference driving any of them. Go slow, give yourself plenty of room to break and take turns a bit wide. Backing either in isn't that big of a deal once you get the hang of it. Plan on using a spotter and it should be fine.
valhalla360 12/17/14 02:52pm Beginning RVing
RE: gas milage..

I started looking at diesel, but quit because they are hard to find, and when you do, they are much more expensive. I am looking at RVs from the 1990s to early 2000s. At some point along this line, they went fuel injected? Or by the 90s were the already fuel injected... Also, new engines now have the spark coils for each plug rather than one coil and distributor. Then, I have been seeing RVs with "lite" in the name. Is this referring to fuel economy? Is there such little difference, that I shouldn't consider mpg? Or is this a significant feature to alter my purchase decision? groundhogy Diesels have been injected as far back as I'm aware of. The reason to buy a diesel is you are towing very heavy loads. Unless you are towing 40,000+ miles per year, no way you will pay for the diesel in fuel savings (with the current prices, you don't save anything) Did you switch over to gas engines halfway thru? No diesel has coils or plugs. Lite is a marketing term more than anything. Many "Lite" RV's aren't paticulalarly lite and even the when they are, it's wind resistance that really kills the MPG. As others have said figure 8-10mpg or expect to be disapointed.
valhalla360 12/17/14 02:49pm Beginning RVing
RE: Black Tank Treatment - taken off the market . . . .

Hehehe, here we go with another 'poop' discussion. THis subject always gets lots of attention. :) To those that swear that water only is all you ever need, and you've never had any odors: All I can say is when it comes time to dump tanks, you are living in serious denial if you think no odors come out, then. That, or you must wear a gas mask when dumping. When you dump the tanks, I don't care what kind of hose, fittings, etc. you use, nor how you do it. There WILL be some air, 'gases' that get out. Nothing you can do about it, really, except put something in your tank to control those odors. If you don't use chemicals (or something else to control odors), it WILL stink, and stink REALLY bad in some cases when dumping. Anyone that says otherwise, like I said, is living in denial or wears a gas mask. :) If for no other reason, this is why you should use something to control the odors - Out of respect for those around you when you are dumping your tanks. If you always dump out in the boonies when nobody is around but you, and you don't mind the smell, then I guess it doesn't matter. I'm betting, though, that is not the case for most of us. Also, just once, have a sewer hose pop loose from a connection while dumping, and have it spew some 'waste' out (something that happens to all of us at least once)....You will learn very quickly why its wise to have something in place, to control odors just in case. ;) It is true, that while the 'waste' is in the tank, IF everything is working properly, odors should rarely get out, chemicals or not. However, when you dump the tanks, its an entirely different story and all bets are off. That is why we use chemicals (Odorlos). While making a deposit, I may clear out the RV but that has nothing to do with the system and chemicals won't solve that issue anyway. Unless you open the toilet valve and stick your nose down close to take a good wiff, there should be no significant odor unless something is broken or clogged. I can honestly say when dumping, there is rarely any odor at all. Again, I dont' get down on my hands and knees and take a nice deep breath right at the hole but doing the normal process, it just isn't an issue. If a hose breakes free and you have 30-40gallons of sewage flying about...having some chemical perfumes is not going to be good enough that I can just get in the truck, to our next destination and take a shower next morning. There is going to be a shower and fresh clothes at a minimum and no one is going to walk away happy...perfumed poo or not.
valhalla360 12/17/14 10:28am General RVing Issues
RE: Lake Michigan campsites

Check out the Michigan State Parks.
valhalla360 12/17/14 07:53am RV Parks, Campgrounds and Attractions
RE: Black Tank Treatment - taken off the market . . . .

Another vote for Happy Camper. No odors, everything is digested before the dump. To get that kind of a result with water alone, you'd have to use a lot more water and dump more frequently. I'm lazy - dumping once a week is enough. al Odd, I'm also lazy dumping about once a week and just use water. No odor issues. I don't know if it's digested (I try not to sample it) but a black tank is a storage system not a treatment system, so as long as it flows down the drain, I don't really care.
valhalla360 12/15/14 03:20pm General RVing Issues
RE: My idea for a Satellite stand with leveler

I just cut a 2x4 stud into 3 pieces. 2 parallel with the 3rd screwed down crossing between and the mounting bracket arm lag bolted to the 3rd. If I need leveling, shove a stick or a stone under the low side.
valhalla360 12/15/14 03:17pm Technology Corner
RE: Slide Out Toppers

fj12ryder, The roller is on the outer edge of the slideout. It rolls up the canvas as the slideout moves in. Most material that is laying on the canvas will fall over the edge as it rolls up. Well, that is how it works for most folks, but I had to be a bigshot and get the Carefree SideOut Kover III with the optional cover to protect the fabric. I later found out that that was not for customers where there are trees. The cover creates a "leaf and pine needle motel" they check in, but they don't checkout. So, I still get to travel with a ladder and brush them off before closing. http://i1081.photobucket.com/albums/j345/mooger42/slidetopper_zps1d6e0803.jpg While it's good to know, I will avoid your style topper, I believe he was refering to a previous comment that said a particular brand doesn't need toppers at all because they somehow automatically clear any debris. I would be curious also.
valhalla360 12/15/14 03:14pm Fifth-Wheels
RE: Converter charging vehicle battery

Before you plug in, take a multi-meter and check the voltage at the battery terminals. Plug in and check again. If it goes up, it is charging. The only iffy part is if fully charged the converter may not put out any power and you won't see the voltage jump (turn on a few 12v lights and it should push the converter to come on)
valhalla360 12/14/14 03:19am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Asking Dealer to drive half way.

If it's a done deal and the dealer will be paid before leaving the lot, I'm sure it can be done but you likely pay a heck of a lot for it. If it's just to kick the tires, not much chance they will bother.
valhalla360 12/12/14 05:23am Truck Campers
RE: Lightening tongue weight

Just don't. Get a truck that can handle the load.
valhalla360 12/12/14 05:20am Travel Trailers
RE: Level RV Every Time I Park?

The bouncing around while driving takes care of the issue plus it would be rare to be at a significant angle for a long period of time. If the parking lot is so sloped that it is uncomfortable to simply go in and move about, then it could be an issue but the simple solution is to turn the fridge off until you are ready to go. An hour or two with the door shut shouldn't be a problem.
valhalla360 12/12/14 05:18am Beginning RVing
RE: Replacing 4 6 volt batteries

I'm interested in the amps needed to make this type of stopping painless.Then we need to know what you run with your batteries so it isn't so painful trying to guess. It has nothing to do with what kind of RV you drive. Ding, ding, ding...we have a winner. Go thru and estimate what you run off the batteries and how long you want to run it. Multiply the hours of operation times the amp draw for each item(divide watts by 12 to get amps). Add maybe 25% as a fudge factor. This is the number of amp-hrs you need to supply. When you buy the batteries, go with 3-4 times the amp-hrs you calculated. The reason is if you use the full rated amp-hrs of the batteries, they don't last very long. Now that you know what you need pick paired 6v or 12v batteries that fit and have sufficent amp hours.
valhalla360 12/11/14 02:22pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Fastest selling pickups

There likely is some correlation but supply chain and marketing projections can easily skew these numbers.
valhalla360 12/11/14 10:25am Tow Vehicles
RE: rug vs spray in vs slide in liner

Hate the slide in bed liners, just traps water and dirt, so it grinds thru the paint and then keeps it wet. Plus they are uncomfortable A rug is really only an option if you have a tounno or cap to keep it relatively dry Latest truck has spary in and love it.
valhalla360 12/10/14 03:45pm Tow Vehicles
RE: Just back from checking on 5er in storage:(

Take away the food sources. No food no mice. Everything else is treating the symptom not the problem. Plugging up entry points is a lot harder than it sounds. In MY case, the insulation on the main power cord was the food :-( Rodents of all types, chew pretty much continually and on whatever is available to keep thier teeth ground down. Your power cord was just handy when they weren't eating. It is possible the food source is outside the trailer but odds are it is somewhere in the trailer.
valhalla360 12/08/14 06:24am Fifth-Wheels
RE: Tow Vehicle Preferences

If you are looking at new trucks, the axle ratio isn't as critical as it once was. In the old days of 3 speed transmissions (and to a lesser but still important degree 4 speed transmissions), the ratio was important. The lower ratio rear end would give you better economy running empty but when loaded, it would drop down a gear and you would have to run at inefficient high rpm when stressed at all. Going to a higher ratio would allow you to stay in the top gear most of the time. With the newer 6-8 speed transmissions, they can compensate by selecting a lower gear when needed but with just a modest increase in rpm and dialed in for efficiency. Really! Who uses a dually to go off road...Funny! FUNNY IS RIGHT!! I didn't see the term "off road" anywhere in the quoted text. While I agree, a dually isn't a great off road truck, I never mentioned anything about duallys or off road. It applies equally well to 1/2, 3/4 and SRW 1 tons. The point is you have to look at the gear ratio from the back of the engine to the wheel. In the past with only 3 or 4 speeds, If you had a 3.7 (or lower) rear end, once you dropped out of top gear, the overall gear ratio changed significantly, so if you did a lot of towing, you would be running high rpm with the engine relatively lightly loaded on a regular basis when you meet even modest hills. While it shouldn't damage anything, it's noisy and inefficent. The old solution was to put a higher ratio rear end in so that the engine wouldn't drop down unless it was a really steep hill. The down side is when empty, the rpm will run a few hundred higher than the engine really needs, so it loses efficency when running empty. Ultimately, you looked at how much driving around empty vs loaded and pick the truck that matched your use best with the higher 4.0+ ratios favored for heavy towing. With the newer transmissions with more gear ratios available, the truck can run at relatively low rpm when empty in the highest gear and when you load it up, it has the option to select a gear that keeps the engine rpm and loading much closer to the ideal output of the engine rather than just winder her up to the red line. One clarification: If you are pushing to the upper limits of the towing capability, the higher ratio rear ends, I believe, still get slightly bigger tow ratings.
valhalla360 12/08/14 06:19am Fifth-Wheels
RE: Just back from checking on 5er in storage:(

Take away the food sources. No food no mice. Everything else is treating the symptom not the problem. Plugging up entry points is a lot harder than it sounds.
valhalla360 12/07/14 06:45am Fifth-Wheels
RE: Tow Vehicle Preferences

If you are looking at new trucks, the axle ratio isn't as critical as it once was. In the old days of 3 speed transmissions (and to a lesser but still important degree 4 speed transmissions), the ratio was important. The lower ratio rear end would give you better economy running empty but when loaded, it would drop down a gear and you would have to run at inefficient high rpm when stressed at all. Going to a higher ratio would allow you to stay in the top gear most of the time. With the newer 6-8 speed transmissions, they can compensate by selecting a lower gear when needed but with just a modest increase in rpm and dialed in for efficiency.
valhalla360 12/07/14 06:28am Fifth-Wheels
RE: Motor Trend 2015 Truck of the Year

This is what killed the Ford Ranger. There just wasn't a lot of cost savings and fuel efficiency wasn't much better, so it was hard to sell the small trucks. No, this is not correct. What killed the Ford Ranger was that Ford decided to let the old design die on the vine. The F150 and the F250/350 HD trucks always get the latest modern updates every year. That has been Ford's focus, and they have done exceptionally well over the years with their F series trucks. The Ranger barely changed for the last 15 years it was on the market. The design was ancient and the powertrains were so outdated, inefficient, and sluggish compared to the F150. I really wanted to buy one of the last Rangers because that was the size I needed, and driving it was just a lousy experience. While they did let it die, they let it die because it was cheaper to maintain a single line of pickups and marketing found that if there wasn't a ranger, the vast majority would just buy the 1/2 ton (which many were doing even when the ranger was available). Not much difference driving around town with a regular cab 1/2ton vs a regular cab mini-PU, if that's a priority. I liked the mini-PU's (owned 3 of them over the years) but they don't make financial sense for the manufacturers.
valhalla360 12/07/14 06:13am Tow Vehicles
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