RV.Net Open Roads Forum: Search

RV Blog

  |  

RV Sales

  |  

Campgrounds

  |  

RV Parks

  |  

RV Club

  |  

RV Buyers Guide

  |  

Roadside Assistance

  |  

Extended Service Plan

  |  

RV Travel Assistance

  |  

RV Credit Card

  |  

RV Loans

Open Roads Forum Already a member? Login here.   If not, Register Today!  |  Help

Newest  |  Active  |  Popular  |  RVing FAQ Forum Rules  |  Forum Help and Support  |  Contact  



Open Roads Forum  >  Search the Forums

 > Your search for posts made by 'valhalla360' found 582 matches.

Sort by:    Search within results:
Page of 30  
Next
  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: Serious Oil Change

It likely didn't do anything back in the 1960's either but since you appear to be the type to keep up on maintenance, you didn't see any problems and incorrectly assumed it was the extra oil-flush.
valhalla360 11/16/17 12:24am Tech Issues
RE: Poop water is everywhere

Only thing better would have been if the wife was in the kitchen catching it on video.
valhalla360 11/16/17 12:14am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Weigh Please help...

Good point about toy weight in toy haulers. An empty toy hauler can have a higher pin weight than if you max the toys but otherwise travel light. You are probably OK but since toy haulers are so variable depending on loading, I would seriously think about heading to the scale to verify.
valhalla360 11/16/17 12:11am Fifth-Wheels
RE: Recliners

Obviously measure but we just swapped out a couple of the tiny swivel chairs with a big dual recliner. Took a little maneuvering but it was a great upgrade. Just check under what you are moving to make sure there isn't a water tank or similar installation but otherwise, should be easy.
valhalla360 11/16/17 12:07am Travel Trailers
RE: Serious Oil Change

When you drain the oil, there is always a little left on the surfaces. With a diesel, it turns black due to soot. You just mixed the new oil with the old sooty oil. You just can't visually see that the soot is drastically thinned out. As far as helping reliability, your average new engine will outlast the chassis just following the manufacturers maintenance plan, so there is nothing to gain by putting suspect used oil into the engine.
valhalla360 11/15/17 05:03am Tech Issues
RE: Slide toppers

I can't see the top, so as long as it's just dirty and not debris...I don't worry about it. They are nice to have as they do keep the slide roof cooler and keep debris off of it. Only downside is in heavy wind, sometimes it can catch them and flap them around.
valhalla360 11/14/17 11:08pm Fifth-Wheels
RE: Pass through bath

If you travel with folks you aren't on familiar terms with, it's a minor issue (we really don't spend of lot of time in the bedroom outside of sleeping). For a couple or family where you've all seen each other, it's just not an issue. What I really don't like are the pass thru baths with a separate corridor to go around them. The end result is a smaller bath and a lot of wasted space.
valhalla360 11/14/17 03:52am Travel Trailers
RE: Cyclone Pool Blower to winterize RV?

For blowing out lines, volume not pressure is the primary consideration. As long as the 6PSI can overcome the head enough to get the water starting to move out of the fixtures, it should work fine. Thanks... that's what I thought too. I tried it this morning and at first I got a really good slug of water out of each of the faucets. Then I got blowing and mist -- Good signs. But then I got to where the pipes just sort of gurgled -- Not a lot, but enough to know that there was still some moisture in there. Going to try to modify my connections and I did forget to isolate my water heater. See if I make out any better this afternoon and can avoid buying a compressor. Sounds like you aren't getting enough pressure to overcome the head and then air bubbles just slowly gurgle thru. If it's not getting a clear flow of air, there is likely too much water left and you will have to try other methods. One thought: can you apply the air at the fixture so you are pushing the water down hill to get most out and then go back and do a good blow to get any residual? Houses are not really a good comparison as it's typical for them to have plumbing going from the basement to the first or second floor with 10-20' of head to overcome. In an RV, it would be rare to have more than 5' of head to overcome. Also most people use compressors because... they have a compressor. Regardless, don't leave it just gurgling as that means there is water still in the lines.
valhalla360 11/13/17 11:28pm Beginning RVing
RE: Pads for under Leveling Jacks?

Sometimes if you are on grass or muddy ground, the legs can sink in. A pad underneath helps reduce this. We just use some small chunks of 2x6 or 2x8. Not critical but it does keep the metal out of the water and mud a bit.
valhalla360 11/13/17 11:19pm General RVing Issues
RE: Travel Trailer Rubber Roof Repair Options. Help needed ASAP

You would be lucky to get $2-3k on a 2001 26' trailer in decent condition. Replacing the roof is likely a $4-6k if it turns out to be fairly simple to fix. It could be a lot more if the rot is bad. If you have the skills and want to put in the effort, you might be able to buy the materials for $1-1.5k and do it yourself. Nothing you slap on the top will fix the problem if the plywood underneath is rotted out. Sorry, but no good news.
valhalla360 11/13/17 11:12pm Travel Trailers
RE: Turbo or supercharge and NA gas engine

Big difference between Ford building a turbo engine from the ground up with extensive testing vs Bolt a turbo on an hope for the best. At modest boost pressures is will likely be OK but will never be as good as one designed from the start for forced induction. Outside of dragsters and certain other racing applications, no one uses superchargers. The main advantage is instant power. While a turbo is spooling up the supercharger is already pumping air into the system. The downside is it eats up some of the power to run the supercharger. With a towing application, the turbo lag really isn't a big issue as no one expects to do a 4sec 0-60 pulling a 30' trailer. The big advantage of a turbo is it gives you the power when you need it (at the cost of additional fuel consumption) but when you don't need it, you get the better efficiency of a NA engine. If you stick with the V8, you don't gain any efficiency advantage. Ford did it by downsizing the engine. Under light load, a NA V6 is more than enough power to maintain highway speeds, so you get efficiency when just running around town but if you need hard acceleration or occasional towing, you have the available power. Since the CAFE rules don't include towing, they didn't take a hit pumping a lot of fuel into the engine while towing.
valhalla360 11/13/17 11:07pm Tow Vehicles
RE: Cyclone Pool Blower to winterize RV?

For blowing out lines, volume not pressure is the primary consideration. As long as the 6PSI can overcome the head enough to get the water starting to move out of the fixtures, it should work fine.
valhalla360 11/13/17 01:37am Beginning RVing
RE: TINY HOUSE THOUGHTS

While people have always done crazy things, the "trend" is purely made up. If you want to use one as a cabin back in the woods, never to move, it's viable but... - In a populated area, expect zoning to keep you out (or illegal). - If you want to move, it's way heavy for the size and won't hold up as well as an RV. While RV's aren't typically built like a brick house, they will likely hold up as well (particularly if they aren't moving) and can be had for much less money. In the end it's 95% TV show hype.
valhalla360 11/12/17 11:07pm Travel Trailers
RE: Replacing generator with inverter

What are you planning to run and for how long? What is your battery bank made up of? How will you be recharging the battery bank and how often? Assuming you meant, you DO NOT use Air/Con, then it may be viable (it's technically possible but not practical to run Air/Con without a generator or shore power). The slightly more complicated part is doing an energy audit to determine how many amp-hrs you will use and then sizing the battery bank to accommodate the demand. As mentioned by others, putting a switch on the power input side of the converter is fairly simple but don't forget or it will quickly kill your batteries.
valhalla360 11/12/17 06:10am Tech Issues
RE: How to properly plan x-country trip with 43' 5er?

Philly to LA and back is just shy of 6000miles assuming no side trips. Given 30 days, that's 200miles per day. Assuming 50mph average (RV's generally travel slower and you add + an hour to break camp and set up camp that's 5hrs per day just to handle travel needs....EVERY DAY. If you actually start detouring off to see sites not on the direct path, you can easily push up to 8,000-10,000 miles. A month really is a short time to be doing a coast to coast trip. I would pick out some key destinations and focus on those with maybe a few 500-600miles days mixed in to allow you some down time from driving. As far as tools, Google Earth is a good option to start with. Put placemarks at potential destinations and then plot it out from there.
valhalla360 11/12/17 06:03am Fifth-Wheels
RE: Is it crazy to leave water in your tanks in storage?

This is a great plan...if you want to learn how to do plumbing repairs.
valhalla360 11/12/17 03:59am General RVing Issues
RE: Motorcycle towing?

Google Swivel Wheel Trailer.
valhalla360 11/10/17 10:37am Dinghy Towing
RE: RV site as a home base?

Your $1800 total seasonal site comes to nearly the same cost as our year round full hookup site next to our cottage. Plus we get the cottage thrown in for free in that comparison... ;) And no, we're not "flipping real-estate". The cottage was originally built by my father-in-law in 1947, and we have no interest in selling it. Our daughters frequently use it during the year, especially during the summer boating and swimming season and the winter cross-country skiing and ice fishing season. If you already have the site and will keep it regardless of the camping situation, of course it comes out pretty well as the incremental cost is minimal. That doesn't really apply for the OP has he will have to factor in the cost of buying land, upgrading the land, ongoing costs and eventual sales costs. Might break even in the long run but as you say, the annual costs are likely about the same. But if the OP buys, the money sunk into the land is a lot less liquid and if it doesn't work out, there is a good chance of significant losses. Spending a year or two with a seasonal site to make sure you like the lifestyle and area makes a lot of sense.
valhalla360 11/10/17 05:09am Full-time RVing
RE: 5th Wheel Suggestions for Full Time Family???

Also get tough real quick to take 6 in a pickup. For the size you are talking about, you are looking at a 1ton SRW minimum and probably a DRW. Are you trying to save money? The cost of a new truck and trailer will kill you especially when you consider depreciation.
valhalla360 11/09/17 06:55am Full-time RVing
RE: RV site as a home base?

We have a lakeside cottage in the Adirondacks Our costs to maintain the cottage including utilities and taxes only come to a couple of thousand dollars a year, much less than what a year round RV park site would cost in most places. Last couple years we've had a seasonal site (with year round storage included if we choose) for $1600 in southern Michigan. Only thing extra is electricity which totaled about $200 last year. Now if you are flipping real-estate and happen to use it as a site, that can work but I wouldn't count on making money unless you have a history of investing in real-estate. This is particularly true if you need to hire out work to add driveways and utilities.
valhalla360 11/09/17 02:03am Full-time RVing
Sort by:    Search within results:
Page of 30  
Next


New posts No new posts
Closed, new posts Closed, no new posts
Moved, new posts Moved, no new posts

Adjust text size:

© 2017 CWI, Inc. © 2017 Good Sam Enterprises, LLC. All Rights Reserved. | Terms of Use | PRIVACY POLICY | YOUR PRIVACY RIGHTS