RE: Thankgiving Fridge Failure!!!
Chris,
Thanks for the reply. I've just pulled the burner assembly apart. I bought a baby bottle brush and bent the brush with a gentle turn and put it up the flue. Nothing comes out on the sides of the flue. from what I can see, my burner is the picture of health (per Gene) and the flue appears to be spotless.
I'm trying to figure out if the baffle is rusted out or something like that - that would explain why the heat of the pilot wouldn't heat the boiler enough (as the AC does) to boil the mixture off and cool the fridge.
If my supposition is correct, I'll be pulling out the fridge tomorrow after I return from this trip to get to the flue and baffle. I've followed the schematice with my volt/ohm meter and everything has almost the same voltage (the batteries are holding at 12.6 and the voltage at the fridge is 12.5. Not bad so I know I have a good ground. The burner is getting gas - and the flame matches Gene's pictures. The only thing I can think of is the flue is blocked the heat isn't rising up to the boiler properly.
I've tried to access the flue from the top, but I'm going to have to cut the mesh on the top access panel and I don't think I can reach down far enough to pull the baffle up and out
Oh, when I bang on the flue, nothing falls out - I expected some rust to fall out at least!
Any thoughts before I pull it when I return tomorrow?
Thanks again and have a great weekend!
josh
RE: Thankgiving Fridge Failure!!!
Thanks VK. I'll give it a shot. Yesterday I was looking down from the roof to the top of the fridge. I removed the vent cap, and I could see down somewhat, but the plastic mesh is still in place. That's coming off I just hope I can get to the top of the burner tube from the roof.
I'm going to check Genes suggestion and look at the burner tube and see if the flame is the correct height.
Thanks!
josh
RE: Thankgiving Fridge Failure!!!
Gene,
Thanks for the photo. I'll take a look in the AM. I think I have the larger flame, but I could be wrong. I'll check it out.
THanks again!
josh
RE: Thankgiving Fridge Failure!!!
I removed the burner cover and per the instructions (as shown above) and verified the flame is blue.
How do you clean out the flue pipe without messing up the baffle?
Do you have to remove the entire fridgerator or is there a way to clean it from the bottom?
I've removed the cover plate and can remove teh burner, but I think it might be the baffle or something like that.
Is there a proceedure to remove/clean it? I can't find it anywhere....
Thanks and happy thanksgiving!!!
josh
RE: Thankgiving Fridge Failure!!!
Thanks for the replies....
I turned it off for about 30 minutes, then started the generator and ran it on AC. It's working. My guess is something fell down the burner tube and the flame isn't getting the heat where it should be.
I've turned it back off to cool and I'll disassemble the burner to clean it out.
Does anybody know where i can find an online breakdown of the burner tube assembly by chance???
Thanks again!
Josh
Thankgiving Fridge Failure!!!
I have a dometic RM2652.
Yesterday, when I left home I was running on AC and had no problems. When I disconnected, I switch over to running on Gas - like I always do. Since I arrived, I didn't think much about the fact the temperature was beginning to rise.
When I got here, I noticed the temperature was a little warmer (it was 34 degrees when I left home) but figured it was the usual in and out.
I was wrong. Last night I forced the fridge from Manual (gas) to Auto just to see if there was a diagnositic problem that might show up with the "Check" light. No check light.
I went out side and saw the burner light on (or at least the glow of it). I can hear the clicking of the ignitor and the gas is flowing but still no cooling.
It's 55 degrees and I do have an ice chest - which will be open as soon as I start cooking the turkey in an hour or so. But I'm hoping someone will have an idea as to what to look for.
I don't have the dreadded ammonia smell nor do I have any of the Yellow discoloration that usually indicates a failure.
I'll start the generator at 9:00ish this morning (as much as I hate to do it) to see if the burner is the problem (maybe some debris feel down and is blocking the heat tube? )
I would really appreciate your suggestions. If I was anywhere else, I wouldn't care, but I really don't want to have to use the Ice Chest unless I have to (and from the looks of things I don't think I have much of a choice!)
Thanks for your help
josh
RE: Connecting Printer and 2 Laptop
If you have Windows, you can use something called an "Ad Hoc" network. It's not for the faint of heart; However, the way it works is as follows:
1. Install the printer on one of the two PC's via a USB cable.
2. Share the printer on PC it's connected to.
3. Make sure both PC's are running and have Wireless (WiFi) running on them.
4. Open the "view wireless networks" (right click on the single icon in the task tray).
5. Select the machine that has the printer connected to it.
6. Now that you're connected, you should be able to browse (by clicking on the wireless network) the other machine and the printer should be visible. When you double click, the software from the machine that has the printer will install on the second computer.
At this point, you should be able to print to it.
Setting up a printer on a wireless network (either Linksys, Netgear, or Dlink) is a viable option as well; However, you are going to need to understand IP Addressing a little bit in order to make it consistent each time you turn on the router and the two printers.
Josh
RE: Internet help
For what you're looking for, you're never going to be really satisfied. I support a large group of sales folks who use sprint wireless cards exclusively. Most of the time, they moan about speed, but when I look at the cards, the latency is less than 50ms in major cities when they are near a cell tower.
What I do see is the same for both Sprint and Verizon. They move you to 2g network unless you're really utilizing the full 3g bandwidth all the time. Sprints old software used to allow you to only utilize the 3g network, but the current software doesn't let you do this. I'm not sure about verizon's access manager but I'm sure it's there, somewhere!
Sprint does have a 5g limit, but they haven't enforced it yet. Verizon is much more stringent in terms of the 5gb limitation.
Unless you're on a cable modem - or DSL, you're never really going to be truly satisified.
josh
RE: 2nd Monitor?
to answer your question in a nutshell - yes. The caveat is your laptop probably doesn't have more than one Monitor connection on it and your video driver needs to support it.
To enable it, you have to go to the video driver properties and turn on Extended Desktop. Then press the Fn button and the one that enables external monitors (e.g. F8 key on most Dell laptops). Assuming you have your laptop open, your external monitor should show the background on your current desktop - and your mouse should scroll from the laptop screen to the monitor.
RE: Portable Air Station recommendations
I second Mr. Wizards Tsunami. Excellent compressor. fast, and gets it done quick. My Daughters Boyfriend, and his friend filled 8 Toyota off road tires from 15lbs to 36lbs for the long drive home. It took them about 15 minutes for all 8. Add to it, they have tanks to store the air to utilize their differential "Lockers" and it was pretty amazing.
RE: Sealers, Roofs & Walls
I believe the problem is the result of two issues.
1. The putty behind the trim (Which I've removed) was not in contact with the surfaces behind and below it. Thus, if water did get past part of the seal, it would find a way into the substrait. I believe the best way to resolve this is to warm the putty, and apply it flat - as it was but also roll it into the corner of the trim to insure it'll make contact with the substrait below. This should - in theory - make a water tight seal behind the trim if it's wedged in tightly enough. Of course, the real challange will be to put enough to grab but not some much it won't sit flush. It has the consistency of Plumbers Putty, so it should work in a similar fashion.
2. The roof issue, I believe, will need some eternabond, and possibly a bit of good luck. The eternabond should seal both surfaces and insure there isn't a leak; However, it would be better if the roof overlapped the front face of the trailer not the other way around.
Thanks for all your help.
josh
RE: Sealers, Roofs & Walls
Thanks so much! Looks like some eternabond is in my future... Now I just need to dry everything all out. There isn't any Rot - I caught it early enough, but it was wet!
Again, thanks all!!!
RE: Sealers, Roofs & Walls
I'm concerned about the putty. It's what's leaking through. It's not contacting all the surfaces below the trim and on the edges of the wood, fiberglass and other materials below.
I could just make a small bead, and push it into the seams, then apply more of the putty filling the spaces completely, but will it actually seal it enough to stop water from passing through it?
I have two tubes of Dicor. For the roof, you would "think" that the manufacturers would create a "shingle" effect, where the sides are below the roof, and the roof is on top of the sides so water would flow off the roof, and it has nowhere else to go but down onto the surface of sides. Unfortunately, Fleetwood saw fit to put the rubber roof down first, then put the sides on top.
This has created a "dam" point where the water will sit and pool. I dont' think there will be enough Dicor to cover the surfaces and hold back standing water (unless I drop the tongue completely down or completely up to insure the water flows away from that seam).
So, If I get eternabond, and put it over the seam, does it really create a watertight seal that will hold back water that's pooling on it? If it does, I can put it on the roof, then put the Dicor over it and cover everything with the metal seam - though it's really not needed at that point.
Thoughts?
josh
Sealers, Roofs & Walls
I put a post up a month or so ago re: my fiberglass separating from the wood sub structure below. Today I removed the aluminum on the corners to find Rust on the screws and most of the front completely delaminated from the wood below.
To make matters worse, I have a leak I see on the inside. I removed the metal the bridges the Rubber Roof to the front of the Trailer only to find more water and rust. Not a great start.
So, here's my questions.
What sealants can I use with the EPDM rubber roof? Normally, I'd use silicone and prepare the surfaces properly. That would make a good, watertight seal - but they local RV store told me not not use Silicone and use use Dicor (sp?).
Also, what can I use on the corner to seal out water there? I've got contact cement for the fiberglass separating from the wood below - but that won't last if I don't resolve the water issue in the first place.
Thanks!
josh
RE: Honda EU2000 Generator Mount/Use Questions
I second Michael's suggestion to look at the Yahoo! group. There is a photo of a design that would work very well. Basically it's two vertical metal pieces that are attached to some metal base the generator sits in.
The two straps are centrally located and they rise up to the bottom of the handle height on the long sides of the generator. Then a rod is slipped through both straps. One side of the rod has a wide end - like round circle to stop the rod from passing through the strap. On the other side there is a hole with a lock through it.
It's only enough to deter a casual thief but it's more than enough for most of them.
Simple design, difficult to bypass. It's what you're looking for.
RE: The true costs of running a generator?
One factor that should be part of the equation is the life expectancy of a generator over a given number of hours.
So, if you look at a honda, it's life expectancy might be far longer than a Honeywell - Though from the reads it appears the motor is made from the same factory in China.
All in all, just the basic operating costs have been well qualified. What one does with the analysis is something different.
It might be doing the cost benefit of not purchasing a generator and staying at campgrounds with electricity over the life of a generator or it might be for budgeting the total cost of ownership (the purchase of the generator plus the operating costs year over year).
I do think that folks have answered the OP's original question and then some. I'd like to know what the OP is doing with that information. That might be a completely different set of answers and follow ups.
just my .02 ...
J
RE: Official Honeywell Generator thread..talk about em here!
if you want to verify the problem is related to the fuel system, pull the spark plug and put a half dozen or so drops of gas in the cylinder, then put the plug back in and give a tug.
If the problem is fuel related, then it'll start a bit and run and die. If it doesn't start at all, then it's electrical. If it tries to start and sputters then it's fuel related.
it's a fast and easy way to figure it out.
RE: direct tv problem
One thing I've noticed is the angle for elevation is too low and you need to make it a few degrees higher.
Last month, before we went to Tahoe, I set mine up. I was off level, and my house blocked my view of the satellite.. I moved the satellite and the tripod down, set it up, per the direct TV azimuth and elevation and it didn't work. After the receiver timed out, and I had the "sound" I turned a little to the left. Nothing. returned to center, then a little to the right.. a slightly faster beep. Then raised the elevation up a little bit and faster.. finally 6 degrees later, I had 75% signal strength.
Take your time, make sure you have a line of sight that's clear, but don't be afraid to twist it left or right and up and down a bit.
good luck!
RE: How, exactly, do tank sensors work?
As Sam stated, there is a ground or reference connection in the tank and then there are a series of points (either screws or studs) in the tank that represent empty, 1/3, 2/3 or full.
For each of the LED's you see, the voltage between the stud or screw to the reference illuminates the LED. Seems to me I remember reading about how they work - something about a 66K resistor and 12 volts. I can't remember it exactly, but was a couple of years ago.
RE: Yamaha EF2400is generator run time with air on
I've run mine in the desert (-248 below sea level) and it lasts about 4.5 hours - but I set the temperature as low as I think it can run until it shuts off - say 70 degrees, then it cycles off and turns back on in about 10 - 15 minutes and runs again for an hour or so.
Yamaha's don't have a built in fuel pump like the honda's (which are operated by vacuum). I've often contemplated putting one in to put an extended run tank but since I don't run it all night, I figure I can add gas when I need it.
