My Wildcat has a wonderful water filtration system built in. It does a wonderful job. However, on my last trip we were at several campgrounds that had severely low water pressure. That combined with the filtration system made the shower head basically a trickle.
I have an idea for a fix, but need some advice on where I might be able to get a part (if I can get it). I want to plumb a bypass for the water filtration system. The plumbing part should be easy. Simply plumb a bypass with a valve that can can either T the water through the filter or through the bypass. I would like the valve to be operated on a 12V circuit. That way I can put a switch somewhere like under my bathroom counter or in the bathroom. When using the shower (where I'm more concerned with max available pressure than water filtration), I could flip the switch to bypass the filter. When done, I return the switch which reinstates the flow through the filter.
Anyone see any problems with this setup? Anyone know where I might be able to find such a valve?
Brian Plano, TX &
Buena Vista/Hartsel, CO
2003 GMC Sierra 2500HD SLE D/A CC SB 4x4
2007 Open Road 377BH3S-5
Thanks for the links, guys. I will keep you updated on the success of this project. I thought about sprinkler systems, but most of the ones I found were 110V systems, not 12V. I think I will try to find one normally open valve and one normally closed. I will put the normally closed on the bypass side and the normally open on the filter side. That way when I flip the switch and supply the 12V, it will close the fliter valve and open the bypass valve. Under normal operations, no power is needed.
I can also use this bypass when sanitizing my lines so I don't have to remove the filter during the sanitization process.
I would think you could use 2 two way valves. One on each line?
Ronnie
2003 GMC 3500 Seirra Duramax/Allison 4x4 Crew Cab Dually, Cipa Mirrors, Prodigy Brake Controller, B&W Gooseneck Turnover Ball, Bilstein Shocks,
2001 Forest River All American Sport 36CK Toy Hauler with Colibert Enterprises Gooseneck Extension.
I think you could do it with one valve, to 'T's and a piece of hose...
A 'T' on both sides of the filter system and a normal closed valve between them... When the valve is opened (energized by the switch) the water will take the path of least resistance and you will have un filtered water... when the valve is closed, the water is forced to go through the filter.
Fewer parts, fewer leaks, fewer problems.
JMHO
K1500 Suburban, Dutchmen Sport 29Q
3 Girls, 2 Boys, Wife, and a Golden Ret.
I agree and this is my original idea. However, if I put two valves I can completely shutoff the water filter side. This gives me a way to completely isolate that side for maintenance items like water filter changes and allow me to isolate the filter fomr sanitization efforts. But, then again, that would require 3 valves. I would have to close off the front AND back-side of the filter side to prevent backflow. Three valves is starting to get too expensive for my goal.
Think I will just stick with one normally closed valve on a bypass tube activated via 12V with a switch wired under the sink. Should run around $100 or so. To me that is a reasonable solution and cost.
Offline
Online
