My Model/Serial are affected according to the list.
But hold on, maybe not.
The current and voltage listed on my S/N label is 2.7 amps at 120
volts. That is only 324 watts, not the high power element that is supposedly a major contributor to the problem. Looks like it is time to make some measurements to see what I really have.
Mine has a double match too! While my trailer is a 2004 model, it was built in 2003...model & S/n match the list provided above!! Great....
*Cliff*
Chaos reigns within. Reflect, repent, and reboot.
Order shall return.
2004 Trail Cruiser XP C-23B
1994 Jeep Grand Cherokee
1989 Thomas Diesel Pusher (Cat 3208/Freightliner)
Chesapeake, Virginia
Now, maybe I know what's going on with my Refer. Twice with in the last 4 yrs mine quit working on propane. What I found was a hard like substance wrapped around the ignitor. It looked liked something had melted and then hardened after it had dripped on the ignitor. Is the heater located above the flame in the flue? My Refer has a double match!
Harold
No, what you've been finding isn't related to the recall but has also been a problem with my two Dometics (both on the list).
I have to clean that substance off of the thermocouples no less than twice a year on both. They are mounted side-by-side in our kitchen (like one BIG 4 door). We aren't on the power grid and propane is the best way to refrigerate.
What you are cleaning off is drippings from the baffle that slides down into the flame tube. It melts the metal which then drips down. Eventually the "check fridge" light comes on because the thermocouple doesn't cool down fast enough that the computer knows something is wrong and shuts the fridge down. Before your post I thought that my problem was peculiar to our house since the fridges never travel or bounce or move. Unless you are stationary, my theory was incorrect.
I've had these installed since July of '99 and started having this "slag" problem after about the 1st year. It's been just a twice-a-year maintenance item now, always hoping to do it BEFORE the light comes on the the fridge shuts down.
I've thought of replacing the baffle with stainless steel but haven't yet. I tried operating the units without the baffle (doesn't cool very well). As it is, my baffles are probably 1/3 shorter than they are supposed to be.
Phil
'03 F250 deezle and '01 Komfort 27FS
Off the grid and outta sight at home
Go camping to have neighbors and amenities
fixruprbob wrote: My Model/Serial are affected according to the list.
But hold on, maybe not.
The current and voltage listed on my S/N label is 2.7 amps at 120
volts. That is only 324 watts, not the high power element that is supposedly a major contributor to the problem. Looks like it is time to make some measurements to see what I really have.
Mine is on the list but says 2.7 amps also. And my math makes it 324 watts as well. Nothing on Dometic's website about the issue. Guess I have until next spring to figure it all out.
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Nothing on Dometic's website about the issue. Guess I have until next spring to figure it all out.
