WVvan
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Today's project.
Take a 1-1/2" PVC valve and a surplus 12 volt seat belt tensioner motor.
Use them to make a motor driven greywater dump valve.
Have some more work to do on the electronics but yes, it really works. Will eventually wire it to the dash, James Bond style.
(Insert mad scientist laugh here.)
Open the pod bay doors Hal.
Once I exit Hal, this is what I do.
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MAU MAU
New Hampshire and Maine
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Joined: 01/15/2012
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Forget putting the motor on the Greywater dump valve, I want to see it on the Black tank dump valve with a 3000 psi ejector spout out the back for tailgaters!
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cargovanconversion
Florida, USA
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Joined: 02/16/2012
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I was browsing thru some of your previous postings and noticed your induction cooking unit. I have been using induction at my home for decades and think it is just the best.
But I wonder how it fits in your battery/solar installation. Don't you think it will be a drain on your power supply and limits its use?
Van.
My website describes the conversion of my Dodge B-250 van into a small RV. I deal with a lot of woodworking, but hope to be quite specific on solar as well.
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WVvan
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The induction cooktop is rated at 1500 watts so it can suck up the power but I do have a bigger that average house battery bank. Also it's not like I do a bunch of stove top cooking while camping. Tried to plan ahead to where power usage won't be a big concern but like everything else with the RV project, will find out for sure when I get to it.
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WVvan
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Kitchen Cabinet, Post 5
There is a slight bow to the plywood that I've cut the countertop from so using the 10-32 sized T-nuts to help straighten it as it's tightened down.
Here's the countertop with the drop leaf piece next to it.
I'll use a piano hinge to join the two together. Choose the piano style hinge because I hadn't worked with one before.
Positioned the hinge and started screwing it into place when I almost made a big mistake. The plan is to laminate the countertop and drop leaf. That laminate layer between the ends of the two plywood pieces changes their position on the hinge. Almost forgot that. Cut out several small pieces of laminate and use them as spacers.
Use wood screws to hold the hinge in the correct placement. I'll be changing this to T-nuts later on.
Need some way to support the drop leaf when it's in the up position. Gave this a lot of thought. Looked at several kinds of folding supports but decided to go a different way. When the drop leaf is in the up position it is blocking the front half of the side door. I have no doubt there will come a time when I'm going to want to duck under the drop leaf to go through the side door. A folding support will partially block the path under the drop leaf. Instead I'm going to use drawer slider hardware to hold the leaf up. This square steel tube is what will be against the bottom of the drop leaf.
The drawer sliders will be at an angle so the square tube will snug up against the bottom of the drop leaf as it slides into it's final position.
Will have to fabricate some brackets for the drawer hardware so I'm trying to figure out all the dimensions. The square tube is to be flat against the bottom of the drop leaf so there is an angle between it and the slider end.
The slider has to high enough, everything here is upside-down, to clear the angle iron frame.
Take a bunch of measurements.
   
Using the measurements, cut, drill and weld four brackets to the cabinet frame to support the drawer sliders.
Weld onto the square tube two angle iron pieces that will bolt to the slider hardware.
Do a test fit. Here the drop leaf is in the full up position supported from underneath by the slider. The drawer hardware is rated for 100 lbs so that should be more than sufficient for how I'm planning on using it.
This is how it looks when the drop leaf is down and the slider is fully retracted. The countertop has a overhang to clear the square tube.
Double check that there are no under countertop conflicts. 
continued -
* This post was
edited 05/18/12 09:28pm by WVvan *
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NewsW
US
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Joined: 02/06/2012
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I am somewhat uneasy over the metal frame.
Did mine and elected to mostly use wood with metal reinforcements.
My theory is, if there is a mishap, I want it to break in a controlled fashion rather than be a lot stronger than it needs to be if someone's head hit it.
In my case, a bit moot because the intent is to shield the entire RV area with a safety screen (to be installed eventually) to protect against flying missiles.
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WVvan
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Kitchen Cabinet, Post 6
Next up is to find where to mount the water pump. Here's the SHURflo pump I'll be using along with an accumulator. They share a common fitting. I could separate them but that would require additional fittings so I'm positioning them as a single unit.
Don't have any pictures of the next step even though I spent a good deal of time on it. I would take the pump and accumulator and see where they would fit within the cabinet frame without causing obstructions or wasting space. Tried them in all different positions.
Decided on mounting the pump and accumulator to a plywood board.
Then mounting the board to the back of the cabinet. The hose on the accumulator will go to the cold water inlet on the sink faucet.
Cut, drill and weld four tabs onto the back of the cabinet frame for the pump board.
Next add a shelf where I can store the dishpans.
The dishpans will only fit within the cabinet at this location if their lip is between the pump and accumulator. Use that as my guide for the height of the shelf.
Add a 1/2" angle iron upright to the frame. This will hold the support the right rear corner of the shelf.
Add another 1/2" angle iron upright to the front of the frame. This will support the front left corner of the shelf.
Check that the shelf won't interfere with the outlet hose from the accumulator.
For the left rear corner of the shelf support, bend and weld on a simple 1/4" rod angle.
For each of the three upright angle irons, cut a small piece of square tube and weld that on as a shelf support.
Check the fit with a piece of scrap plywood.
Found I didn't like the placement of the front left shelf support so cut the upright angle iron off and replaced it with another 1/2" angle iron piece but moved it a little bit to the left.
The length of angle iron that I cut off was placed on one of the metal shelves along the garage back wall. I mention it because this particular piece of angle iron will make an appearance again later.
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kurtswen
NJ
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Joined: 01/25/2002
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With the pump above the water source you may have issues with priming the pump. They are not very good positive displacement pumps.
2007 Winnebago Sightseer 35J
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Towing 1995 Jeep Wrangler
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WVvan
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The SHURflo pump claims to be self-priming but I haven't tested it yet. I should be doing that in the next couple days. If you're right and it doesn't work I'll change the design.
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loving retirement
SF Bay Area
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Joined: 06/30/2006
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I have never been able to get my SHURflo accumulator to hold pressure over a long period. So you may want to locate the bottom pressure value of your accumulator so you can conveniently pump it up once it has lost the pressure.
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