I had to start using two sets of instruments to troubleshoot A/Cs on the roof cuz they get too hot and give bogus readings. One set gets put where they can cool down while I used the others til they overheat. Craig
The overload on the compressor senses heat and current. It might be the OL opening from high load if it's just the compressor that shuts off. I got caught camping in a previous 5er when it was 108* and the compressor was cycling on the OL. I ran the fan on high to get the most air over the condensor and I blocked a little bit of the return (but not enough to make it freeze up) to reduce the load on the evaperator. That worked, it stayed running and it got down to 85 inside and at least I wasn't sweating any more. That unit was 3 years old at the time and I didn't think the condensor coil could be very dirty but I saw later that it was VERY dirty - about 1/3 blanketed over on the inside surface, where it can't be seen. I cleaned it but never camped in that high of heat again to tell if that would have cured everything. Craig
Someone should do some more explaining about 20 degree statement. It's just too darn confusing, in the way that it's written.
The way I see it, IT IS WRONG.
I believe it is more correct to say that the 20 degree difference applies in some other way,....somehow. We all know, or should know, that it's very common to cool your living space down to a comfortable 75 degrees, WHENEVER the outside temperature is OVER 100 degrees. Doesn't anybody ever wonder how we do that? It certainly could NOT be done if the air conditioner only put out 80+ degree air.
What we need to realize is that these refrigerated air units, like the ones we use in our RV's, RECIRCULATE the INTERIOR air, NOT the outside air. These units simply begin by attempting to cool HOT air, and they turn hot air into cooler air, cooler and cooler UNTIL they run out of capacity. At THAT POINT, if the interior air is not cool enough for you, in case of an RV application, the most common thing to do is to INCREASE the capacity of your air conditioning system. THAT'S why you see motorcoaches with 4 or 5 roof-mounted air conditioners.
Sure, you can pre-cool the outside air around the air conditioning units. It helps. Sure, you can park the whole thing in the shade, it helps (noticeably). Sure, you can enhance the insulation, it helps too. BUT, the big thing is CAPACITY. It's the same way with trying to heat the air. If you're still cold, get a bigger heater.
BTW I have TWO 15,000 btu roof air conditioners on my RV,....plus it's a ducted system. Back when I bought it, I also odered the optional extra-insulation. I have awnings, and I cover the big windshield, inside AND outside. And, if it's over 100 degree outside, I gotta park in the shade in order to achieve truly comfortable interior temperatures, in the middle of the day.
Also, I designed and built my own brick house. Here in the sunbelt, with record heat (over 100 degree, this year), we keep the interior at 75 degrees.
Willie & Betty Sue
Miko & Sparky
2003 41 ft Dutch Star Diesel Pusher/Spartan
Floorplan 4010
Blazer toad & Ranger bassboat
I don't know how you are outfitted, but if it is uncomfortable and you have to stay where you are, in addition to everything else suggested, you might try bringing in the slides. The smaller the space to be cooled, the more efficient it is. It's a matter of which comfort do you value most: space or temperature?
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