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Windwalker55

Missouri

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Posted: 10/06/09 06:57am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I had the same problem with my furnace, same symptoms. Turned out to be a nest/cluster of dead lady bugs covering the little hole that allows gas into the burner. Cleaned that up and it worked fine. I actually had it done at Camperworld. Cost about $200 total. Oh well, I couldn't and didn't want to mess with the gas lines.


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billtex

RI

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Posted: 10/13/09 11:17am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I spent some more time rolling around on the floor this weekend and now I am more stumped than ever.
Took off the gas line and cleaned again, as well as the gas valve inlet. Pulled out the electrode and that is sparking fine also so I do not think it is the board?
So I know I have gas coming to the gas valve, I know I have spark.
There is sufficient pressure to run all the other appliances; stove, oven, water heater. Both gas bottles are full, and both are open.
Keep in mind, that prior to this failure the furnace was working fine. So failure appears to be catastrophic and not one where performance diminished over time.

If it is thermostat, wouldn’t the furnace fail to even blow cold air and just not come on at all?

Do you think it is solenoid?
How can I tell if gas is coming out the back (heat chamber) side of the gas valve?

What can I check next?

Thanx, Bill


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ticki2

NH

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Posted: 10/13/09 12:37pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Could also be the fan switch . The fan switch should shut the fan off after the chamber cools to a safe temp. If the switch is stuck in the on position it will run the fan between cycles and put out cool air. Try turning the themostat up when this happens and see if the burner comes back on. The other thing to check is the microswitch (sailswitch) , if it doesn't open fully there will be no gas to the chamber. The circuit board controls more than just the spark so it could still be the problem.


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bobndot

NY

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Posted: 10/13/09 12:41pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Hi Bill, there is a relay in the unit somewhere ,it might be defective see p. 7 of the second link . Bob .

pic of relay

http://www.gmceast.com/technical/Nicholls_Suburban_Furnace.pdf

scroll down to blower runs but fails to ignite and pilot fails to ignite
Burner fails to ignite

billtex

RI

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Posted: 10/13/09 01:19pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Why is when something breaks, it is always the most difficult thing to access?

Bill

EricCO

Gilcrest, Colorado

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Posted: 10/13/09 02:59pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

billtex wrote:

Why is when something breaks, it is always the most difficult thing to access?

Bill


That's about when the wrench goes bouncing off stuff and I spend more on fixing my damage than the original repair would have cost.


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Eric&Lisa

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Posted: 10/13/09 03:12pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Two thoughts...

1) I did not see on this thread where you smell propane. If I have something fail to ignite, I can usually pick up a wiff of propane smell. Perhaps something is wrong with the gas delivery?

2) I recently had a propane problem on my camper (oil in the lines) coupled with a hot water tank circuit board which went out at the same time. My local RV dealer has a tool for testing the hot water tank circuit board. Mine tested bad, I replaced it, and all is well. While everything was apart, I noticed the furnace circuit board was nearly identical. I'll bet that board would be tested the same way. My suggestion is pull the circuit board, take it to a dealer who can test it, and see what happens. If it tests good, then you know the problem is elsewhere.

HTH!
-Eric


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