H2oSprt

Cerritos, CA

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Joined: 03/24/2003

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Like the subject says my truck is rocking in the front like it needs new shocks. It's a fairly light trailer (Dry 4300 GVWR 7200) for my 2500hd truck so I'm not over weighted. I don't want to go out a just buy shocks as it only does this with the trailer in tow. Is this just what happens while pulling a trailer? I'm using a weight dist. hitch could this be the problem? Thanks for your help and suggestions.
04 K2500 HD, 4.1, CC, SB, 6.0
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Honda 2000
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goodcruisin

Greenwood, IN

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When I had my Excursion and TT it porposed when I didn't have enough tonque weight.
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RVbikers

Red Hill, PA

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Sounds to me like it might be the WD needs more adjustment, like its not doing enough. Any measurements taken with and without WD hooked up? Lets see what others come up with.
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old guy

Oregon (pronounced Or e gun)

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as I sit and think about this, it appears to me like you would not have enough weight on the front tires, by that I mean the WD set up has too much of the tongue weight on the rear and it gives you the basketball bounce effect.
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tpi

Southern CA.

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Joined: 02/22/2005

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Quote: Is this just what happens while pulling a trailer?
To some degree yes on sections of our southern CA freeways. The damaged sections are the right length to set up a porpoising at 60 MPH. As I recall the 605 has some offending sections south of the 91.
But I'd certainly check the shocks and the weight distribution setup to minimize the bounce. This can certainly make the situation much worse. The first thing I'd do is be absolutely sure your weight distribution is setup correctly. There is lots of good advice on this site you can use. The shocks need to be in top notch condition.
The other thing is speed. My rig smooths out nicely about 63 MPH which can be a little fast in the right two lanes (and close to ticket territory). It is very likely there is a speed which your rig will ride more smoothly.
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fordsooperdooty

Orange Kounty Kalifornia

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This is how I would always set up our tow vehicle/trailer, keep in mind that Step 8 is very important! Set it up properly one time and you're good to go camping! I used a yardstick to measure the front and rear truck fenders to assure proper distribution on all 4 wheels, the truck and towed trailer were level. Took some "fiddling" sometimes...but worth it!
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skipnchar

Topeka Kansas USA

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Joined: 12/17/2003

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Adjust the WD hitch or GET a WD hitc. A 7,000 lb. trailer would most likely be well over the 600 lb. limit for a good class IV receiver.
2004 F-250 SCREW Long Bed (new)
OR 2004 F-150 HD (85,000 towing miles)
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jyh818

Chino, CA

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tpi wrote: Quote: Is this just what happens while pulling a trailer?
To some degree yes on sections of our southern CA freeways. The damaged sections are the right length to set up a porpoising at 60 MPH. As I recall the 605 has some offending sections south of the 91.
The other thing is speed. My rig smooths out nicely about 63 MPH which can be a little fast in the right two lanes (and close to ticket territory). It is very likely there is a speed which your rig will ride more smoothly.
I think I know what you're talking about. In some sections of the freeway, I get this jerking (forward/backward) when I'm towing on 60/215 in Riverside, CA. On other sections, it's fine.
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Turbo Diesel Dude

Green Mountain, NC

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Take up one more link on your WD chain. I have to do either the three link or two depending on how my TT is loaded in order to smooth it out. JMHO This should settle down your front end with some more weight on it.
charles weidman
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H2oSprt

Cerritos, CA

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Joined: 03/24/2003

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Turbo Diesel Dude wrote: Take up one more link on your WD chain. I have to do either the three link or two depending on how my TT is loaded in order to smooth it out. JMHO This should settle down your front end with some more weight on it.
Does this mean a tighter fit or looser fit? If I read correctly that would mean I would have two chains less, Wouldn't that put more weight on the front?
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