reppans
CT
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Joined: 10/09/2007
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With so many options to use a B as a second car and day trip base vehicle, I believe B owners drive through the winter more than any other RV owner. This is my first winter with a B and was wondering what you all do to protect your B from the corrosion of road salt. I've never really had a problem with normal cars, partially because they were easy enough to drive through a car wash, but also because there's hardly any bare/exposed metal accessories attached to it. In contrast, the B has so many different hinges, bolts, accessories, etc. that it just looks like a field day for Mr. Rust and Corrosion.
So what you folks do for winter prep and maintenance to help your B survive the winter muck?
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skipnchar
Google Kansas USA
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Joined: 12/17/2003
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Same thing you do with any OTHER vehicle. Wash it often and keep it waxed. Good luck / skip
2004 F-250 SCREW Long Bed (new)
OR 2004 F-150 HD (85,000 towing miles)
Rockwood 8314SS 34' travel trailer
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charles
Ohio
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Joined: 08/11/2002
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It's hard to keep them clean in the winter as most of us don't have outside water turned on for a few months and 9 feet doesn't fit into any of the full service car washes around here. I'm fortunate to have a heated wash bay near home that has a 12 foot high door so I wash it over there. We also have a self-service car wash that has a 10 ft. clearance under the overhead hoses that I have used, you might want to look into finding one near your home. Otherwise if you get a few warm days in a row, you can turn your water back on and thaw out your hose to clean it at home.
Nick
10 Explorer X-SE
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booster
Minnesota
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Joined: 10/14/2007
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Personally, I don't think I would want to drive a class B in the winter and expose it to the salt. There are many things hanging under our Roadtrek that are different from your normal commuter vehicle, and many of them look like they would be very susceptible to corrosion. We even have battery connection terminal points underneath with the connections open to the bottom of the vehicle. There are also many opening cut in the original van sheet metal that leave pockets and holes. I don't think the value gained by driving it all year would cover the potential damage from the salt.
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chuckspirit
Ohio
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Joined: 09/12/2009
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I agree salt is a problem. Has anyone ever used a drive through truck wash that is available at most large truck stops?
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Hit The Road Jack
Treasure Coast of Florida
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Joined: 10/20/2005
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reppans wrote:With so many options to use a B as a second car and day trip base vehicle, I believe B owners drive through the winter more than any other RV owner. This is my first winter with a B and was wondering what you all do to protect your B from the corrosion of road salt. I've never really had a problem with normal cars, partially because they were easy enough to drive through a car wash, but also because there's hardly any bare/exposed metal accessories attached to it. In contrast, the B has so many different hinges, bolts, accessories, etc. that it just looks like a field day for Mr. Rust and Corrosion.
So what you folks do for winter prep and maintenance to help your B survive the winter muck?
Way back when we lived up North reppans, I'd drive my vehicle through large puddles from melted snow on flooded streets!...REAL FAST...
Even though the water may have contained some remnants of road salt IMO it was pretty well diluted...
2006 DIY Dodge Badged Sprinter Conversion
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jambo101
Montreal (Lasalle)
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Washing it is not going to do much to prevent road salt from penetrating every nook and cranny in the lower underside portion of the vehicle resulting in a worthless rust bucket a few years down the road.
If you are determined to drive it through the rigors of winter a yearly oil spraying should be used or a grease type undercoating. Check local Yellow Pages for a shop that does rust proofing or corrosion control, maybe something like
Carwell
Also if you are going to be driving in the winter snow tires would be advisable.
"Second star to the right, and straight on till morning."
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dks
Mississauga
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I live in Ontario and have used my 2003 RT for the last 3 years in the winter. First suggestion, rust proof the hinges (the ones that hold up the storage doors) on the side storage bins. For mine it's the waste door, side compartment, and water hookup. I've used a spray rust proofing product and Tremclad. I think Tremclad works better. Minimal rust has formed on the trailer hitch and continental tire kit assembly. The waste rod levers show rust as well. So, as others have suggested, wash it when required. But, other than the hinges, I wouldn't worry too much about the rust.
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Patster
Ontario Canada
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Joined: 04/14/2005
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I have only seen one type of solution that works. If you drive even occasionally in winter conditions and salt and/or other chemicals are used such as calcium chloride and magnesium chloride to keep the roads clear you need to protect your vehicle with a LIQUID rust inhibitor applied to the entire vehicle. If you drive it a lot then it is advisable to reapply mid season to the underside areas that see a lot of spray of water, slush and salt. The salt and other chemicals which are now far worse than salt because they are not as water soluble and stick to the vehicle even after washing penetrate the seams of the body, electrical connectors and just about everything and accelerate corrosion. A liquid inhibitor will also penetrate these areas and block out the moisture and chemicals. Avoid tar like substances, they dry out and crack and the salt penetrate these cracks and is held by the undercoating trapping it and rots things even worse that with nothing. In Canada we have a couple brands with similar products, Krown Rust Control and Rust Check are both similar. I use Krown personally and they also make a product to remove salt and calcium called M.R 35. It is a cleaner that makes the salt and other chemicals more water soluble and is rinsed off. I am a fleet mechanic in southern Ontario, our winter road maint is no good for our vehicles and is far more corrosive than driving you car in the ocean at the beach. Combine that with constant fluctuations of temp from below to above freezing and it is really hell on our cars. Some people are going to tell you todays vehicles do not need anything, B S! If there is nothing in your area like this, travel to Canada and have it done! Look on the internet for a location nearest you. PM me for further questions.
ps, although I do endorse certain products in my post I do not have any affiliation with them, my recommendation is based on personal use, I make no money from them 
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jambo101
Montreal (Lasalle)
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Patster wrote:. you need to protect your vehicle with a LIQUID rust inhibitor applied to the entire vehicle. If you drive it a lot then it is advisable to reapply mid season to the underside areas that see a lot of spray of water, slush and salt.
They dont seem to have any dedicated rustproofing infrastructure in the states,most people have no idea what oil spraying is all about and think rustproofing is buying a rattle can of some chemical from Walmart and spraying it on certain parts of the car/truck,here in Montreal there are dozens of rustproofing establishments and most people i know get their cars and trucks sprayed once a year and you can certainly tell which cars have been treated and which ones havent once they start getting 5 to 6 years old.. I use the Krown treatment. every year,costs $125 and i've never seen rust on any of my cars.
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