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Open Roads Forum  >  Fifth-Wheels

 > hard to pull waste valves

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Dick_B

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Posted: 01/27/11 03:33pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Don't know how old your RV is but there are several reasons for hard to pull valve handles. Another one is that the cables are looped around to use up their fixed length and overtime the cable gets rusty and binds. Another might be that the cable end that exits the outer casing gets rusty also. Some recommend lubing that end also.
If the valve handles have no name on them they are probably Bristol that seem to have a fixed six foot length. You might consider replacing them with Valterra that have a cable that can be cut.


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Gsturner

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Posted: 01/27/11 03:49pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

x2 on the request for a picture. In my head, I'm picturing the zerk in the actual blade that slides open--surely that's not right...


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Chuck&Gail

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Posted: 01/27/11 06:24pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Well I do two things. Commercial valve lube is mostly coconut oil. I've found corn oil or peanut oil works just the same. I use some in each waste tank spring and fall.

When valves become hard to open/close after many years, I've added another trick. Once both waste tanks are empty, I shoot a little silicon spray on the valve rod, and then fog half a can of silicon spray back up the dump outlet while I work valve. I then repeat with other valve. Works great for me, valves work smoothly, and so far I've avoided replacing a valve. Try it, you've nothing to lose but the cost of one can of silicon spray.


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LadyRVer

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Posted: 01/27/11 07:23pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Silicone spray is my #1 fix-all. Just did both of the valves on the Class A,
hard to pull. Also have a Class B with the cable and it just wouldn't budge.
Used pliers to open the valve, then sprayed it heavily with silicone. Works good. I have also used white grease when I had it around. Silicone doesn't seem to attract the dirt like WD-40.

okiejoe

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Posted: 01/27/11 10:14pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Thank you so much will try some of the ideas but I like the grease zerk idea. I can always depend on our RV Family to help out

H & E

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Posted: 01/28/11 05:47am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

After the winter storage and the valves are dry I spray them with silicone and that seems to work all summer. I do not add antifreeze to the tanks for winter as it rarely freezes where we live. I just drain them.

GeeksRUs

Sundre Alberta

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Posted: 01/28/11 06:28am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

JoeGood988 wrote:

Open the valve and drill a small hole on the flat side of the valve. The hole size is small enough that you can screw in a grease zerk. Now close the valve and shoot in some grease..work the slide back and forth until it slides smooth...if you start getting hard to open, shoot a little more grease...usually once in the spring will keep the valve sliding smooth until next spring.


Based on your comments, I'm not sure where you put the zerk. Can you supply a picture?

Eh!


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bigjettech

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Posted: 01/28/11 08:08am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I'd be Leary of the grease fitting mod, only because I've seen what the wrong type of grease can do to certain kinds of rubber seals. Personally for as cheap as the valves are I'd just replace them and be done with it. I replaced both on my old tt a couple years back and noticed the valves on the 5er I just got used are a bit tight. I'll be replacing them when the weather warms up. It's not bad, drain the tanks and jack the trailer a bit on that side and you should get nothing coming out when you disassemble it.


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okiejoe

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Posted: 01/28/11 04:06pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

One bit more of Info, My valves are buried under the underlayment of the belly pan. It runs the full length of the 5er and just has a 2 x 2 hole cut in it probably by the previuos owner and its really not directly under any of the valves.

45Ricochet

North Idaho

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Posted: 01/28/11 08:10pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Chuck&Gail wrote:

Well I do two things. Commercial valve lube is mostly coconut oil. I've found corn oil or peanut oil works just the same. I use some in each waste tank spring and fall.

When valves become hard to open/close after many years, I've added another trick. Once both waste tanks are empty, I shoot a little silicon spray on the valve rod, and then fog half a can of silicon spray back up the dump outlet while I work valve. I then repeat with other valve. Works great for me, valves work smoothly, and so far I've avoided replacing a valve. Try it, you've nothing to lose but the cost of one can of silicon spray.


This is basically my approach also. I find it most important in the fall when winterizing. I add a bit of oil then do the pink stuff.
I also do the valve rod a couple of times a year, so far so good.
Having an enclosed under belly sure makes the grease fittings a bit difficult to service for my RV.


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