Sounds like your set up is the opposite of mine. My wires go UP through the wall from the switch, and then across through the ceiling (I'm guessing here)and then two lines (red and black) come out of the ceiling and down into the motor on the top of the front driver's side rail. I've checked the circuit breaker area under my fridge and I don't see anything other than of course the fuses and etc.
I'm curious to check behind the matching vent/ panel that's right below the circuit breaker area, although it's not as easy since it's held in place by actual screws instead of the easy access/ open break panel. Any idea what's behind that one? By the way, what's the deal with RV's and those SQUARE drive screws that are used? Industry thing or what?
I have one vent panel and one access panel opposite the electrical panel. One has the heater inside and the other is where the shore power cord/transfer switch is. The square drive screws are pretty common in R V's, I got a set of 3 bits from Home Depot that work in a cordless drill or magnetic insert type screwdriver, and keep them in the rig.
Hard to see what happens to the wires after they go thru the floor due to the fabric covering, but I will keep looking as long as the weather cooperates.
2008 GMC 2500HD 4X4 DMAX CC
2004 Thor Wanderer Wagon 247WTB
2006 TE450 Husky
2007 Rhino Sport Edition
My buddy had the exact same problem. I just jiggled the upper limit switch and it worked, and has worked ever since... Don't know why you would have to replace the circuit board if your issue lies in the switch.
2006 Chevy 2500HD 8.1 4x4 CCSB
2012 Eclipse Stellar 28SBG, Spring Over Axle
"Weather cooperating in So. Cal." That's funny. I can say that since I've lived in So. Cal my whole life except for the past 7 years I've been in So. Oregon. You don't really know how sweet the So. Cal weather is until you don't live there! We finally had some nice (but cold) weather today after days and days of pouring rain and occasional snow. Friends and family have mentioned the rain down there recently.
Anyway, yeah, the upper limit switch was what I was going to try this morning (after not messing with the beds the past week) but when they mysteriously worked this morning I missed my chance. I'm kind of bummed really, on one hand I'm happy that they are working again, but on the other hand I'm kind of wishing I was able to mess with the upper limit switch to see if that's the problem (fingers crossed it is). So for now I won't know until who knows when again.
As far as the circuit board reason, the Happijac folks I spoke with, based upon my issue, said the next step would be the circuit board if the upper limit switch wasn't the problem. Hence my reason for locating it in the trailer wiring. With their trouble shooting so far I've confirmed it isn't the brake (according to Happijac, the older brakes run 12v and sometime can be the problem so they change them out to the newer 6v), the upper limit switch was going to be next, and then lastly the circuit board. (They've been really helpful actually and I have no complaints about them)
As of now since it's working fine, I'll never know what the problem is, but I can only hope it's the upper limit switch because that's an easy (and cheap) fix, and easily "jumped" if I need to in order to "limp" it back up to get home. I still need to find the circuit board location just in case, and because even though it's all working, I'd like to replace both with new just for peace of mind.
I can't find the circuit board, I found the 2 power wires (black/red) and some smaller wires that come out the same hole in the floor near the tracks, I assume the smaller wires are for the limit switches. They dissappear into the walls/floor and I have no idea where they go. I also know the 3 wires from the switch panel go thru the floor, but where they go after that ?? Its possible its somewhere under the floor but covered with the fabric covering.
Good luck finding it, and if you do, let us know where it is.
Ours is in the same compartment as the exterior power cord and there was no way to tell until you bent over and looked up inside the space. Ta da, up high where you can't see it inless you know it's there. I know we don't have the same traile but just a suggestion.
I really doubt the problem is in the circuit board anyway. Have you printed out the wiring diagram? If so you'll see where the end switches are wired in and may be able to trace/test at the bed and switch. The switch will have power to the center pole and then divert it to either the up or down pole when you push it. Start there, then check the limit switches. In reading the instructions they state that there is rarely an issue with the motor. My end switches were in pieces and I was able to get new ones at the local electronics store for a couple bucks, I now carry a spare in my junk drawer.
Good idea, I'll check shore power cable compartment area. I've gotten another switch and tried it and it was the same (it's also a spare in a drawer). According to the Happijac folks, the small circuit board will have a solenoid that should be clicking when the system is activated either up or down. They said on occasion that has failed, so hence the reason to locate it and see if there's anything with it. But the madding part right now is the damn thing works just fine now. I'll try to crawl around it this weekend (weather permitting) and see what I see. Fun stuff for sure.
Found it (and everything else I may need to replace). It was up inside the ceiling, I finally got a small dentist mirror and looked up inside the very small (2"x2" hole in the ceiling behind the place I checked once before) opening and there it was a ways back hung up on and behind the insulation. I had to work at it a bit to just get it near the opening, then carefully twist and turn it to get it through the hole. The circuit board itself is about 2"x3" not to mention the wires that are all attached. Anyway, it's found finally and I can rest at night.
Some minor trouble shooting and I realized the circuit board is fine. I can ever so slightly hear and feel the soleniod clicking when power is given via the up or down position on the lift switch. According to the Happijac folks, that's what I should be hearing to insure the board is good. So it's got to be the upper limit switch (once again according to Happijac). So I removed it and blew it off with the compressor and looked it over. Saw nothing striking so I just put it back on. Since the bed started working on it's own last week I'll never know for sure, but at least I was able to find the circuit board and verify the soleniod is fine. Since the upper limit switches are so cheap I may just buy one and change it out.
Thanks for everyone's time to chime in. It appears to be an issue with the upper limit switch like most folks thought, however I needed to insure for my own sanity that it also wasn't the circuit board and also the simple fact that I couldn't find it put me on a mission too. We'll see how it all holds up from here on out.