In December I made a task light using some projectors a friend had given me years ago.
At the time I noticed the bulbs were not easily replaceable but continued the build anyway.
I Am hoping one of you recognizes the fixture, and knows what type of bulb is used in these.
I really thought they were halogen bulbs but am not so sure anymore. Two 10 watt bulbs would draw more than 1.1 amps right?
This fixture drew 1.1 amps at 12.8 volts when both lights worked, now half that.
Also it appears the bulbs are held in with some type of glue. Must be some high temperature stuff as the fixture gets hot.
Anyway this spotlight/ tasklight worked great, until one bulb burnt out. It is super bright with a concentrated beam and I could clamp it nearly anywhere, plug it into any of my 6 ciggy plug receptacles aim it where needed and turn night into day.
And Now I want to get some replacement bulbs, and do not know what to get that will fit this fixture, project properly and stay in place.
Not looking for LED's or trying to adapt this light to accept a different projector. I want to get a new bulb inside this projector, or get the same exact projector and modify it to fit the custom oak housing like I did to this one.
your assistance appreciated
If better pictures and dimensions of the bulbs themselves are needed they can be provided but I was hoping someone recognized the projector and could point me in the right direction.
Those appear to look like MR15 type bulbs however MR15 bulbs are single.
It looks similar to some bulbs used in medical devices like those lights that Dentists use.
It could also have been a one off for a manufacturer that decided to scrap their "project" so there may not be any direct replacement.
Without any numbers or identifying marks it may be impossible to find an exact replacement.
The actual bulbs are embedded in the reflectors and are not designed to be replaced, hence the white "glue" which most likely is a ceramic type material.
Trying to remove the glue most likely will destroy the reflectors and trying to mount a new bulb would be a real challenge to get the filament in the exact location for best operation.
Might wish to consider an alternate plan "B" which would be to use a single MR15 Bulb.
The Mr16 bulb info allowed the research to begin. The 16 refers to 16 eighths of an inch, or a 2 inch Diameter. MR11's are also available.
I am not sure if my current fixture utilizes halogen bulbs. I was assuming it did because it simply is very bright considering it consumes only 1.1 amps.
Here is a photo I just took.
The openings in my light are 2 1/8" and could accept a 2 & 15/32" tall bulb before sticking beyond the flat face surface, so a standard MR16 bulb will fit within, but I am not sure how I will attach them within the light, nor grab the pins.
I have also noted some heat distortion on the plastic reflector and warping of the plastic surface diffractor. I never added ventilation holes to the oak, and no doubt that helped lead to the shorter bulb life. That and my schumacher's 15v+ charging voltages
Looking at he LED offerings in this size, I am no longer taking them off the table. I think a 20 watt halogen and a 6 watt LED side by side, separately switched will make quite a task light and aimed at my white ceiling, as it is right now with only one bulb working, makes an excellent ambient light. The 20 watt halogen might be overkill too.
While these mr16 bulbs say 12 volts, some say ac or dc, and some others don't say either. I want to assume a 12 volt light means it will work on DC too.
Well the research continues. More input welcome as well.
* This post was
edited 03/30/12 12:33am by landyacht318 *
Well, my buddy gave me the other fixture, and the wire' barrels had pulled off the bulb's pins. Pushing them back on the bulb, pushed the bulb from the glue.
Then I removed the blown bulb by just pulling it from the solidified 'Glue'
Then I took the working bulb and exchanged it with the blown bulb. Slid the barrels over the pins,
And can again turn night into day under this tasklight.
Cost of repair: $0.00
A pack of 24 replacement 10 watt bulbs: $8.48.
I did make sure not to get my fingerprints on the new bulb.
I am still considering making a 20 watt halogen, or LED MR16 task/ ambient light with a similar flexible arm on a burly clamp.
IS the bulb "Married" as it were to the reflector assembly?> Or does the bulb itself pull out?
I have some puck lights, that look a lot like that if you remove the cover, Inside is a 10 watt lamp.. Harder than hens teeth to find (Ok Camping World has 'em) but as it turns out they are 10 watt Halogen Landscaping Lights from Home Depot, Lowes, Wal-mart or any other store that sells that kind of stuff including most hardware stores (A fraction of the CW price)
IF the reflector is and bulb are one and the bulb can not be removed..
Check out the MR-16 type lamps. Same stores. Same isle.
Nothin adds excitment like something that is none of your business
Kenwood TS-2000 housed in a 2005 Damon Intruder 377
I thought the bulbs were married to the reflector, but realized they can just be pulled out.
Do note I am not very impressed with the build quality of this reflector. The reflector I pulled the good bulb from was not burnt, but the one above clearly has 'some' heat discoloration.
I don't know if this is because I use the light during charging voltages or if it would have occurred at 12.6 too.
Anyway, it's bright and convenient, I have an extra reflector, and can easily change out the bulbs as I need to, as long as the housing does not melt.
MR 16 lights will be acquired at some point in my future. They say the 40 watt LED MR16 equivalents rated at 4 watts, compare more to a 25 watt halogen bulb. That is darn bright for 4 watts.
Answering your first question - a pair of 10 watt lamps would draw 1.56 amps (Amps = Watts/volts). It is possible the wiring is providing enough voltage drop to get the current down to your 1.1 Amps.
As to the effect of charging voltage - a 10 watt lamp designed to operate at 12 volts will have a resistance of 14.4 ohms (Resistance = Voltage squared / Wattage)., and draw .83 amps (Current = Watts/Volts or Current = volts / resistance).
At 14.5 volts, the lamp would draw more current since the resistance would be the same: Current = 14.5 / 14.4 or 1 amp. Wattage (at the higher voltage) would be 1 amp times 14.5 volts or 14.5 watts, almost a 50% increase. Using the Sylvania Incandescent Lamp Rule Calculator, this will shorten the lamp life to 10% of normal, and increase the amount of light by over 190%.
This would explain the overheating, since the higher wattage would produce more heat.
I wouldn't think my wiring would have so much resistance as to drop the current consumed by 0.3 amps. The newer bulb has upped the amperage by 0.1 amps according to my monitor.
But I do have it on a ciggy plug, and we all know those are not made to be resistance free.
I will bust out my voltmeter and check the voltage drop.
One thing about the bulbs, all the 10 watt halogen replacements I have found online are 1.25 inches, where my bulbs are almost exactly one inch.
So perhaps these bulbs are not 10 watts, but something less.
The light is certainly brighter at 14.5 compared to 12.6, but not 190% brighter.
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