4xMike
Shepherd, Montana
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The '94 S&S that my wife and I just bought has an original factory-installed Stablelift jack system for SRW trucks and of course, I have a DRW. The camper was too good of a deal to pass up so I bought it anyways.
After researching, I found that used Stablelifts are difficult to find (impossible locally), new ones cost twice what I paid for the camper, and a set of Atwood electrics with swing-out hinges cost more than I paid for the camper.
So, I took some measurements, did some initial sketches, and over the next couple weeks I am going to take some backyard engineering skills of mine (and more importantly, a skilled friend's) and a pile of 1/4" plate steel and make this thing work before camping season really gets going.
I will post pics throughout the build as it will likely take place on weeknights about an hour at a time.
Here are some pics of the Stablelift as it sits now.
* This post was
edited 04/27/12 10:06am by an administrator/moderator *
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NorthernLimits
Michigan
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Joined: 11/17/2011
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The only real difference between the single and dual stable lift now is the top plate is longer (extends under the wing more) and the tubes that run from side to side at the bottom are longer. They did away with the large diagonal brace.
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rfuerst911sc
Marietta Georgia
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Joined: 12/19/2011
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I will be following this thread. I really like the theory of the Stable lift just don't like the price. I have been looking for a used one since I bought my TC in December. Good luck with the project.
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Reddog1
El Dorado, CA
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NorthernLimits wrote:... They did away with the large diagonal brace. My Stable-Lift does not have the diagonal brace. I have considered installing one. I use my lift to level my TC with the TC still on the truck. It does a great job other than a bit of side to side movement. When I take the TC off the truck, and use the three stabilizers, the TC is exceptionally stable. Without the stabilizers, the TC moves side to side more than I would like.
I have had my lift for over seven years, and did my own install. The lack of the diagonal brace is not a major issue, but I think it would make a good product even better.
Wayne
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NorthernLimits
Michigan
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Reddog1 wrote:NorthernLimits wrote:... They did away with the large diagonal brace. My Stable-Lift does not have the diagonal brace. I have considered installing one. I use my lift to level my TC with the TC still on the truck. It does a great job other than a bit of side to side movement. When I take the TC off the truck, and use the three stabilizers, the TC is exceptionally stable. Without the stabilizers, the TC moves side to side more than I would like.
I have had my lift for over seven years, and did my own install. The lack of the diagonal brace is not a major issue, but I think it would make a good product even better.
Wayne
I found that the 3 screw stabilizers that come with the lift were too flexy. I made a new set with 5/8 threaded rod and it was super.
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v10scott
Aurora, Colorado
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Joined: 11/27/2003
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I have the dually version of the Stablelift on my 2007 S&S camper. The outside measurement of the Stablelift is 107", My camper is 96" wide, I have about 3" clearance between the Stablelift and my fenders when I load. I can send you some pictures and other measurements if you need. Also if you call Mont at Stablelift, he is very helpful with any questions you may have.
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sirdrakejr
Las Vegas, Nevada
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Joined: 11/18/2001
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Maybe I am missing something here. How do you put the TC in the truck with those angle irons fixed to the bottom of the TC wings?
Frank
2011 Palomino Maverick 1000SLLB on a 2004 Dodge Quadcab CTD Ram3500 SRW long bed equipped with Timbren springs, Stable Load bump stops, Rickson 19.5" wheels/"G" range tires and a Helwig "Big Wig" rear anti sway bar.
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4xMike
Shepherd, Montana
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sirdrakejr wrote:Maybe I am missing something here. How do you put the TC in the truck with those angle irons fixed to the bottom of the TC wings?
Frank
A SRW truck will clear fine, the angle iron & diagonal gussets/brackets are several inches outside of the bed rails of the truck when the camper is sitting in it. My problem is where they are mounted, my DRW fenders won't fit clear. It's 89" between the tubes and my fenders need ~98" to clear with an inch to spare on both sides.
I finalized my plans today and am picking up the steel tomorrow to do it. Thirteen feet of 8" wide 1/4" plate, 18" of .120 wall 2" DOM tube, and some grade-8 fasteners aught to do the trick. Will post pics when I start surgery.
1994 S&S 9.5' SC-B, StableLift, 2x6V golf cart batteries, LED interior lights
2005 Dodge 3500 4x4 QC DRW CTD 48RE, Quadzilla 65HP Chip
73-87 Custom Chevy Crew Cab, EFI 383 Stroker, 42" SS/TSLs, SM465, Dual transfer cases
2006 PJ 18' 14k GVW Flatbed Trailer
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NorthernLimits
Michigan
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Weld some tread plate on where the tires drive over the tube. It will save you when the tires are wet and/or muddy.
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4xMike
Shepherd, Montana
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NorthernLimits wrote:Weld some tread plate on where the tires drive over the tube. It will save you when the tires are wet and/or muddy.
The previous owner aleady did that, thankfully.
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