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Open Roads Forum  >  Tech Issues

 > Hot water flow very low

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Doc Spike

Hope Valley, RI

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Posted: 05/15/12 04:09pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

While rinsing dishes, the hot water flow suddenly decreased to almost nothing. I tried the bathroom sink hot faucet, and the same thing is present. For the 8 years we have had the MH, there was always a humming noise when the hot water was running. The cold water flow was quiet, and is normal now. However there is no noise probably because there's not enough flow to cause it. The heater is under the refrigerator and difficult to see valves. I'm wondering if a check valve has failed and is preventing flow to any part of the hot water system down stream of the tank. Any help/ experiences like this before I start ripping system apart? Have a GH6-8E Atwood heater. Thanks!

rv2go

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Posted: 05/15/12 04:14pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Sure sounds like the check valve is bad. When mine went bad, I could make it scream by playing with the sink water pressure.


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pulsar

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Posted: 05/15/12 05:24pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Moved from Forum Technical Support to Tech Issues.

pkunk

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Posted: 05/15/12 08:54pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I had a low flow problem, found check valves were OK, and continued looking. Under the faucets, where the flex attaches, I found a strainer. Clogged with white calcium deposits from the H2O heater. I removed those strainers and now the ones at the faucet discharge are the ones to clog, but easy to get to & clean.


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64Wildcat

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Posted: 05/17/12 08:49am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Sounds like my Atwood in my 94 Itasca only I had no water coming through at all. Being new in RVing, I flushed the system, it sat for 3 years in New Mexico, after flushing still no water, So I tore the closet down to get to the back of tank and the in and out fittings were plugged solid with calcium. So I replaced both and I had water. After cleaning the gas fittings I had hot water for $25 doing it myself.

Now after last weeekend to the ocean I have another problem. The pilot will light but goes out when I let go of the switch on the gas regulator. I presume that it may be clogged?

Can you install the electric lighter on a unit that you can only start by manually lighting the pilot? Its a pain to try when the wind is blowing.

Clay L

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Posted: 05/17/12 03:45pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Note that if you have a one valve bypass system you may have two check valves on the water heater- one on the input and one on the output.
Often they don't look like check valves - just brass fittings.


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jetcare

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Posted: 05/17/12 09:15pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

rv2go wrote:

Sure sounds like the check valve is bad. When mine went bad, I could make it scream by playing with the sink water pressure.


If you have real low flow or no flow out of all the hot water faucets, the check valve is the problem. It is typically located on the outlet of the water heater on the top fitting. It looks like a brass nipple about 4 inches long.


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Doc Spike

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Posted: 05/21/12 11:22am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Thanks to all who helped!!! It was the check valve on the hot water heater discharge that had failed. Replaced both of them and kept the good one for a spare. Total cost $13. 65 from local rv store. As an ex-engineering officer on nuclear subs, I am appalled by the lack of engineering design in placing the H.W. heater under the refrigerator and the AC circuit breaker panel right by it!! If the heater needs replacing, I believe one would have to remove the reefer first, and if you get a leak in the heater or the lines all around it, the water could spray directly on the AC breaker panel! Not good planning to me! Praise God that it was an easy fix tho difficult to access. Thanks again!

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