Truck in sig, 145,000 Km on the odometer (~90,000 miles).
A couple months ago, I did a drain and refill on the rear diff, and installed the PPE Alum cover Santa brought me. I refilled with AMSOIL 75w110 synthetic gear lube.
Then last week, I did a pan drop/filter change/refill on the 48RE auto transmission.
Yesterday, I was over at a friends place doing PM on his outdoor power equipment (Snow blower, lawn tractor, roto-tiller). We did an oil change/chassis lube on his Duramax as well, and installed the Fumoto valve I got him for Christmas. While I was greasy anyway, I greased the zerks on my truck, and noticed my muffler is starting to crack open at the bottom due to corrosion. Looks like a new exhaust system is going to be on the schedule soon. I think I'll just get a turbo back 4" system (with a muffler of course), but I might ditch the catalytic converter but I haven't fully decided on that yet.
Then, I noticed some "feathering" wear on the inside of my front tires. Might be time for a track bar or tie rod ends. I'll have to check into that. I did the ball joints (upper and lower, both sides) and had a wheel alignment at 98,000 Km (~60,000 miles), about 1.5 years ago.
Today, I drained and refilled the transfer case (I hadn't ever done it). 2 quarts of ATF+4 does the job.
Next up is a drain, flush, and refill of the cooling system. I'm doing that in my own garage too - with a garden hose. Going to change the upper and lower rad hoses while I'm at it ($45.00 for both).
After that, I'll probably service the front diff with the left over gear oil I have as I haven't ever serviced it either.
These things always cost, cost, cost don't they?
* This post was
edited 06/18/12 03:15pm by ib516 *
2010 Cougar 322QBS 5er
2007 Dodge 3500 SRW Megacab, 4x4, 5.9L Cummins, 3.73, 48RE auto HYPERTECH MAX ENERGY or DIABLO PREDATOR tuning MBRP 4" Turbo back Scangauge2 for Boost, Coolant temp, Rail press & Trans Temp
Torklift Stable Loads
It would cost even more if you went to an independent mechanic and even more
if you went to the dealer
The most expensive is if you let it go and then had something fail...out in the
boonies...
-Ben Picture of my rig
1996 GMC SLT Suburban 3/4 ton K3500/7.4L/4:1/+150Kmiles orig owner...
1980 Chevy Silverado C10/long bed/"BUILT" 5.7L/3:73/1 ton helper springs/+329Kmiles, bought it from dad...
1998 Mazda B2500 (1/2 ton) pickup, 2nd owner...
Praise Dyno Brake equiped and all have "nose bleed" braking!
Previous trucks/offroaders: 40's Jeep restored in mid 60's / 69 DuneBuggy (approx +1K lb: VW pan/200hpCorvair: eng, cam, dual carb'w velocity stacks'n 18" runners, 4spd transaxle) made myself from ground up / 1970 Toyota FJ40 / 1973 K5 Blazer (2dr Tahoe, 1 ton axles front/rear, +255K miles when sold it)...
Sold the boat (looking for another): Trophy with twin 150's...
51 cylinders in household, what's yours?...
Yes your saving a bunch of costs, costs, costs
Just a reminder the thermostat and water pump while your at it. Someone on DTR had a really good post (sticky?) about doing it. Don't want that nasty air pocket going on Heater hoses..
I would just drop that cat, they have been known to fall off. I don't believe any state or providence besides Kalifornia care, but don't hold me to that, LOL.
Ah yes the good ol front end issues.... from a oil field truck. I've been pretty lucky but Geno's has some nice replacement parts
The RV ready to go? I'm sure you'll have a better trip this year
45Ricochet wrote: Yes your saving a bunch of costs, costs, costs
Just a reminder the thermostat and water pump while your at it. Someone on DTR had a really good post (sticky?) about doing it. Don't want that nasty air pocket going on Heater hoses..
I would just drop that cat, they have been known to fall off. I don't believe any state or providence besides Kalifornia care, but don't hold me to that, LOL.
Ah yes the good ol front end issues.... from a oil field truck. I've been pretty lucky but Geno's has some nice replacement parts
The RV ready to go? I'm sure you'll have a better trip this year
On edit I got to thinking, that trip was 2 years ago
Anyway here is the sticky from DTR which is helpful if your flushing it. Water pump
Ya Rick, I'm sure the fact that my truck was a former oil field worker was hard on the front end. When I replaced the ball joints and front drive axle knuckle U-Joints, it was because I snuck that in just under the bumper to bumper warranty, cost me $0. I did have them replace the non-serviceable parts with ones with zerk fittings though.
Thanks for the link.
And the RV is ready to go. The countdown is on.
Edited for spelling mistake
* This post was
edited 06/08/12 06:50am by ib516 *
That'll ease the pain 
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