Looks very nice, and one of the ones we are seriously considering. May I ask, which dealer did you use, and would you recommend them? Forest River lists 2 Stealth dealers in WA, Baydos Trailer Sales
4819 20th Street East
Fife, WA 98424
I-5 Uhlmann RV
1001 SW Interstate Ave
Chehalis, WA 98532
I shopped pretty hard at both Power RV near Salem, OR. And ended up buying from Curtis Trailers in Portland. Both places treated us well was just a matter of the best price and Power RV just had one of what we wanted with options we did not want. If your in the NW don't forget to call the Portland dealers or even Spokane and Boise, ID area.....you can save thousands and get exactly what you want.
A couple DESIGN things we've found:
1. All the roof vents are nice, but I can only reach two of them on my tippy toes. My wife can't reach any of them.
2. Bathroom fan is a button in the roof vent, I can barely reach it, my wife can't.
3. Fresh city water hookup is right above the hot water heater. angle the hose correctly so it doesn't get to hot.
4. The living area lights are all on one switch by the rear door. Should have a switch by the bedroom too. Almost stepped on the dog once already.
5. Fresh water fill tank and black tank flush attachments are on the passenger side/curb side which seems wrong to me. Everything should be on the same side.
6. Hot water in the shower ran out very quickly even for this bald guy.
7. Water pressure using the onboard pump and battery power is very weak.
8. I'd give up some bathroom/kitchen/living area to get a real queen bed not the short one provided. We might just do it anyways.
Just for those interested. Still love the trailer.
This is what it looks like with the slide in. You can use the bathroom and get to the fridge with the slide in.
Here is the fridge open with the slide in.
You could even use the sink and stove with the slide in. But good look getting anything out of the pantry cabinet.
On our way to Montana, camped at BumbleBee Campground in ID.
Starting to get use to the size of the trailer. We are now about 5 feet longer than our TC and Enclosed trailer combo.
Nice trailer! Floor plan looks great. Is the fridge accessible without opening the slide?
How does your dually pull it?
The truck pulls it like a dream. This is only 1/3 its towing capacity. We just went to Plain, MT for family reunion and I could run as fast as we wanted up hill.
1150 miles 136.67 gallons equals 8.4 mpg. Ha ha.
About the only thing I need to do is get more weight on the front axle from the weight distribution hitch. Will adjust more for next weeks trip to Medford, OR to camp.
Nice trailer but I have to ask given the dually why not go 5er?
A couple main reasons:
A lot of the nice toy haulers 5ers were much more expensive. Like 70K compared to the 40k we spent. Or more. I know we liked one until we saw the 100K msrp, lol.
Space, A lot of the big 5er toyhaulers have small garages. We are hauling a RZR and a quad. We step into a 4 seat RZR soon I can still put the quad in the back of the truck. Or two quads on the truck with a rack or DiamondBack Truck Cover. This toyhauler is open, with just over 16' of space before you hit anything.
parking space at home. I have just over 65' on my side yard behind my gate. My enclosed trailer already takes about 26' of it. (Truck camper is if front of the garage) This toyhauler pretty much fills in the rest with some room to walk around, behind, and between the two trailers.
Also i just didn't think I needed another 3-5K of trailer weight to do what we wanted to do.
No offense to the 5th wheel guys, we're just trying not to spend to much and get what we wanted.
Nothing like bringing home a new baby over the weekend.
We had the axle flip done and don't think I'll ever have to worry about scraping anything off the trailer.
2 feet of rear stabilizer clearance
and 16 inches of clearance for the lowest thing, the drains.
Heading out this week with it, can't wait. We did try everything out at the house and I think the only thing not working right is the DVDs cut shortly after 1 minute.
We still have the truck camper for the smaller campgrounds and quick trips.
Passed a Jeep Wrangler Unlimited pulling a TT about that size yesterday. Came up behind them and wasn't even able to see the mirrors on the Jeep.
I've seen similar too. And a Jeep Wrangler Unlimited at the most has a 3,500 tow rating. But of course they are usually lifted, big tires, extra heavy bumpers and a ton of other stuff. 4 people, 2 dogs a ton of stuff on the roof and they still hook up a trailer that weighs 3,500#
To often physics lessons get pretty harsh.
Did you advertize the price as "firm" or "negotiable"? If the former, did you get people undercutting the price anyway?
I know it's not the same thing, but I'm about to list my VRod and was thinking of going "firm".
That will weed out most by some will still try and offer lower. I personally will not contact someone with a FIRM price unless I think it is a good deal already and it is exactly what I am looking for. Too many times I see firm on something that is at the top of the price range for that offering, I just laugh and move on.
I usually say something like '' $ 25,000 O.B.O. Cash Only or willing to work with your local bank if your borrowing, not in a hurry, kind of firm and no lowballing.'' Usually gets my point a across.
As has been posted, TC's are extremely expensive for the square footage you get plus you need a large truck to haul them safely. In my early 20's, I did not have that much money so used a small truck and a fiberglass travel trailer or pop up trailer. It wasn't until my late 30's that I could afford a large truck and toy hauler (which cost almost what you will pay for a large TC and enclosed trailer). Because of the cost, I don't think you will find much of the young crowd can afford a TC setup. However, it is easier financially to get into RVing with a trailer and use your current vehicle.
A lot of truth to that.
Very nice Stealth WA2916 toyhauler we just got for $ 41K, MSRP about 59K.
A brand new AF 1150 Drybath is right about 38-40K now. MSRP is the 50-55K range.
I have several friends that have had older campers that they paid 2-5K for. Nothing fancy but they gave a comfy bed, heat, etc..many have stepped up into nicer TCs or toyhaulers.
Our first RV was a tent trailer we bought for 2,300, used for 3 summers and sold for $ 2,200.
Where there is a will, there is a way.
And really most people in their 20s are still going to just tent it so they can appreciate the RV life in their 30s and 40s.
Funny, I am in the heart of TC country. There are at least 6 truck campers in my dog walking loop in my neighborhood. In my group of friends that ride quads/dirtbikes/RZRs there are more TC's than anything else. I see a lot of truck campers all the time. But usually they're on a way one drive from home to their favorite riding area or fishing hole. You wouldn't find them plugged in at a RV resort. Nor bouncing from one RV Resort to another RV Resort. And we're all 30-40 years old. So how old is younger? LOL.
And really an interesting study would be the average age of the 1st time RV buying???
We bought our tent trailer when I was 32. 1st RV
Bought our truck camper when I was 35. 1st TC
Just bought a toy hauler now at 41 and keeping the TC.
Buying an RV has so many factors. You got to have some $$ to make it happen so kids and buying your 1st home come into play. Then the size of the RV is dictated a lot by how much and fast your family grows.
We've got a 2011 version. AF 1150 DryBath had it since day one. For a truck camper it has been great. We paid $ 26k for ours so I'm glad to see the price :) I know a brand new one is pretty much $ 40K out the door now.
Just check it very very carefully for leaks and the seals and all the usual things.
They are heavy but if you've already got the right truck you'll be fine.
If you are really looking for a triple side though with recliners I'd stick to what you are wanting long term. On that note we pick up our toyhauler this Saturday but keeping our TC.
Though I like our setup overall:
1.I would not do a dry bath with a tiny shower again.
2.doing airbags 1st when SuperSprings was what it needed.
3. Backing up over a curb with the original flip down steps down. 13k does not stop for metal steps.
4. Not doing solar on day 1.
5. Not having an electric awning.
I totally would go flat bed if you are not pushing the rear axle weight limits, tire limits or vehicle GVW limits. As flatbed usually means boxes for more stuff.
For me I choose a regular pickup box as I daily drive my dually to work and everything still.
If money was unlimited I'd do a Ram 5500 flatbed in a heartbeat for camper hauling. And drive a SRW daily. But $$$
In some states, removing the factory pick up body can change the registration status of the truck, which can lead to higher annual fees, weight declaration requirements, stopping at roadside scales, and other potential vulnerabilities if a highway patrol officer really wants to hassle you.
Specifically, in California, once the factory pickup bed is removed and a flatbed installed instead, the truck now legally is required to stop at scales, as it is no longer a "pick up". This is not practically enforced, but it is legally enforceable.
California actually has set forth a statutory definition of "pick up", and ever since the Commercial Vehicle Registration Act of 2001, trucks that are not "pick ups" have to have declared, in advance, the maximum weight that will be borne and towed by the truck, and pay fees according to that declaration. Should a CHP pull a flat bed truck over for not stopping at the scales, and should the CHP decide to weigh the truck and the weight of the truck, camper, and trailer exceeds the amount that was previously declared, then the fine is the maximum fees that would be levied on an 18 wheeler semi declaring 80,000 lbs.
Pickups, on the other hand, do not have to anticipate what weight they will carry. An owner of a pickup can decide one day to pull a 9,999 lb trailer, while having a 5,000 lb BigFoot 3000 in the bed, and not have to have paid fees for 22K gross combined like a flat bed truck owner would have had to do in order to operate legally in that configuration. Keep in mind, these rules apply irrespective of the door plate rating of the underlying truck chassis, and irrespective of the fact that the chassis could very well be the exact same.
The rules apply to merely the characteristic of the bed. And that is one reason why some California light truck owners keep the pickup bed installed, even when aluminum flat beds with underslung tool boxes offer more common sense convenience and practical utility.
Don't really care since I don't live in California. With Oregon plates, they'll probably wave as I drive by. :)
But us Oregonians get stuck with stupid rules about T-plates and heavy ''non-RV'' trailers. So my 10k rated Enclosed Trailer is a pain in Oregon. Oregon considers any ''non-RV'' trailer rated over 8K a ''heavy'' trailer subject to T plate rules and weight registration and yearly fee. And yes the TC is included in the weight I register for.