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RE: Shhhh! Quiet that Motor - Ford F53
It's not just the hump, but the floor all around it and the firewall. If you want it to be more quiet you are going to need to address all these area's.
You are correct, but the effort vs results must be considered. I had considered doing more than the doghouse but, on my MH, good material under the doghouse got it quite enough--------so I quit there.
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427435
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05/22/13 05:26pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Shhhh! Quiet that Motor - Ford F53
I used THIS MATERIAL on our 460 V8. It works fairly well.
That's the best price I've seen. How heavy is it and how thick is it?
Considering the effort involved, this is not the place to cheap out on the material. The material I posted about is material similar to what was used in quieting off-highway cabs.
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427435
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05/22/13 05:24pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Shhhh! Quiet that Motor - Ford F53
In another life, I worked with quieting down the cabs on ag tractors. When I wanted to quiet down the engine noise in my MH, I used the following two things.
First, http://www.b-quiet.com/ultimate.html
I then covered that with, http://www.b-quiet.com/hliner.html
No problem hearing the DW now. At normal cruising speeds, you don't hear the engine. Above 3500 rpm, you hear it, but still quite quiet.
How is it applied on the inside of the dog house?
They both are adhesive backed. If you really want results, put a double layer of the first material down before the hood liner material. On the other hand, I have been very satisfied with the results of one layer of each material.
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427435
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05/21/13 10:32pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: ReadyBrute and ReadyBrake
I ended up with the "extension" when I replaced my US Gear braking system with the Ready Brake as I already had the Ready Brute towbar. I actually like the extension as I can now turn sharper without the toad hitting the back of the MH.
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427435
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05/21/13 08:41am |
Dinghy Towing
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RE: Shhhh! Quiet that Motor - Ford F53
In another life, I worked with quieting down the cabs on ag tractors. When I wanted to quiet down the engine noise in my MH, I used the following two things.
First, http://www.b-quiet.com/ultimate.html
I then covered that with, http://www.b-quiet.com/hliner.html
No problem hearing the DW now. At normal cruising speeds, you don't hear the engine. Above 3500 rpm, you hear it, but still quite quiet.
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427435
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05/20/13 08:36am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: What is the best Tow/Brake set up for a Towed Vehicle?
While it might not work in every case (depends on length of safety chains/cables), I learned years ago to criss-cross the safety chains under the hitch. That will often cradle the hitch if it pulls loose from the tow vehicle.
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427435
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05/14/13 08:08pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Anyone towing Buick Enclave with Gas V10 Class A?
I get along fine with a 5000 lb Explorer behind my 2000 V10.
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427435
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05/14/13 09:31am |
Dinghy Towing
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RE: I was just wondering (Fuel Question)
The mid-grade is about 99% marketing. If there is a car out there that the manufacturer says that 89 octane should be used in, I don't know of it.
The cars, that I know about, have one of the following recommendations:
1. Regular (87 octane)
2. Premium (usually 91 or 92 octane)
3. A few OK regular but say that max power comes with premium. These are cars with sophisticated knock sensors and computer programming.
If your manual says that regular gas is recommended/required, that's all you need-----------------unless your car's tune has deteriorated to the point that it is pinging. Than 89 octane might be a short-term solution, but your engine needs some attention.
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427435
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05/13/13 08:48pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Shocks and oil change
If you replace the shocks with new OEM shocks, they will probably be toast again in 2-3 years. And you will have to live with a harsher ride.
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427435
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05/12/13 08:26pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Workhorse vs Ford
Condition, floor plan, and price are more important than the chassis manufacturer at a given MH age.
I have been very satisfied with my older V10 (plugs are fine). Power and 4 spd tranny have been fine. Yes, the increased power and transmission speeds would be nice on the 2006 and newer chassis. No way, would I spend the $$$ to trade my older one for a newer one.
Lots of comments about the Allison tranny, but I have rarely seen posts about Ford tranny issues. All I've ever done with mine is put in Mobil 1 tranny fluid soon after I bought the MH at 32,000 miles.
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427435
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05/12/13 08:20pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Supplemental Brake Dilema
I see there a lot of comments about the Ready Brake system. Simple? Yes Foolproof?? NO Any time you have a mechanical device being either electronic or not they are NOT invincible I don't care whose system it is. Moving parts are subject to just about anything and over time you can expect something to happen. If you visit the Ready Brake site it's even explained there what to do if the brake system does not release. Trust me, I'm not an advocate to tow without a braking system but you do get a bit squeamish after footing $1000 for repairs. Was mine hooked up correctly?? I'm confident it was. I keep the instruction manual right next to the driver seat. Did I bleed the system? Yes and the unit said it was ready to go. Did the hand held talk to the main unit? Well it did in setup but what actually happened on the road? I have NO idea. I sit here in a quandary wondering what to do next. I'm glad we're not leaving for anywhere in the near future. It will give us time to figure out what to do as far as the next system or whether to use this one again only not hook up the break away device which still makes me think is what caused this. I'll call Brake Buddy and see what they have to say but I know I WON'T send them the unit on my $$$$. I feel it's only right they foot that bill and determine if they can just what the heck went wrong.
Yes, a mechanical system can fail also. However, a mechanical system can be visually checked for wear and impending failure. An electrical system can't. Many of us can also repair a mechanical system if wear is found (or it breaks). I doubt that there are many that can do that on an electrical system.
By the way, the Ready Brake system has a built in switch and it provides the wire and light that can be installed on the dash. It lights up every time the brake is actuated. And if the light fails, you should quickly release that when it stops coming on while you are braking the MH.
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427435
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05/10/13 09:00pm |
Dinghy Towing
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RE: Shocks and oil change
As for the shocks, do a search on Koni FSD shocks. A little spendy, but they were the best value for the $ I've spent on my F53.
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427435
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05/10/13 08:46pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Supplemental Brake Dilema
If you have an electronic brake system, make sure you have a totally independent light on your dash that is hooked into you toad's brake light.
Between problems like the OP's and the possibility of having your toad brake system quit part way through a road trip (3 times for me), I would never own an electronic system again.
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427435
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05/09/13 10:32pm |
Dinghy Towing
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RE: Dually valve extension issue, question
I just have straight air fittings on my outside dual. I use a truckers tire gauge to check pressures.
That was/is what I would prefer as well, and what I tried to do when we first got the MH.
However, I've found that for whatever reason, due to the size, design of the wheels on mine...NONE of the trucker's tire gauges will work. Just can't get one with the right angle to get to those valve stems on the outer dual (and I've tried several!)
That, and even if you do get a gauge that will work, you still have to find an air chuck that will attach to it, when you need to add a little air.
Will
Well, I will admit that I took a ball-peen hammer to the wheel simulator and dented it down where the valve stem is. Without that, I couldn't get the pressure gauge to seat correctly.
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427435
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05/06/13 11:20am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Dually valve extension issue, question
I just have straight air fittings on my outside dual. I use a truckers tire gauge to check pressures.
As for the inside duals, I use THESE. They won't leak the air out of the inside dual if the extensions come loose or break.
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427435
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05/06/13 10:57am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: cig smell removal how
One of these cleaned the smell out of a senior citizens apartment that my mother moved into. It took a few weeks, however.
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427435
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05/05/13 09:55pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Fried A/C, 2 TV's and micro wave-my fault or electricians.
Having a VOM is a good thing for a knowledgeable person, it is worthless in the hands of someone who is not knowledgeable of electricity.
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427435
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05/05/13 09:48pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: What transmission do I have?
If you're looking for a good quality synthetic fluid for it, Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF is fully Mercon compatible and is readily available all over the country.
x2
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427435
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05/04/13 04:07pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: What is the best Tow/Brake set up for a Towed Vehicle?
Good post, Dave.
Some other points. While a mechanical system may or may not be as reliable as an electronic system, the mechanical system can be checked for wear----------an electronic system can't.
I started with the Unified/US Gear system. It worked fine for the first year and a half. Then I had 2 black box failures (poor soldering on the circuit board) and than the vacuum pump failed. All happened in the middle of trips. Lots of white knuckle driving pulling a 5000 lb toad without toad brakes!!!!
I replaced it finally with a Ready Brake system. It was easier to install than the Unified system and worked great. I'll never have an electronic system again.
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427435
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04/30/13 06:57pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: looking for a light weight toad
The lightest weight toad will likely end up having poor resale, poor ride, and poor safety. There are a lot of good cars (resale, ride, and safety) that weigh between 2500-3000 lbs. Your MH hardly know that a 2500-3000 lb toad is back there, but you will be glad when you are actually driving the toad around.
I tow a 5000 lb toad (I had it and it was towable when I bought the MH). I once made the climb up the east bound 10,000+ ft. Wolf Creek(?) pass 2 consecutive days (long story). The 2nd time, I unhooked the toad and had the DW follow me. I still ended up in 1st gear at times. If I ever climb that grade again, I won't be unhooking.
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427435
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04/27/13 07:31pm |
Dinghy Towing
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