I use this:
and the on-board water pump to transfer water from the bladder into the freshwater tank via the city fill port.
To accomplish this, I hook up the bladder to the winterizing port, move the lever to "Winterize", and then hook up the fresh water hose to the outside shower by unscrewing the shower head and using one of these adapters.
After running the fresh water hose from the outside shower to the city water fill inlet, I open the cold water valve on the outside shower and turn on the water pump.
It is definitely something that you want to check each and every year in my opinion.
My rig had 11363 miles, not including the approximate 2200 miles in towing from the factory to the dealer, when the left rear leaf spring broke about 1 inch inwards from the rear eyelet. (Yes, I keep *extremely* detailed mileage and maintenance reports)
Thankfully it failed about 10 miles after the start of a trip so we could limp back to the storage yard and get the issue resolved. I'm also thankful that I had RIBs on the trailer, as I am quite confident the stock specification Marathon ST tires would have failed after rubbing on each other for a 1/4 mile or so at freeway speeds.
When replacing the leaf spring, I noticed the shackles in a similar condition to the OP. All of them. Mine were also twisted a fair amount, some so badly that a reciprocating saw was needed to cut the bolts off the hangers. Another 502 paranoid miles since, the wet bolt kit seems to have solved those issues.
I am the original owner of my rig. I've *never* curbed or dragged a wheel, run low tire pressure, put the trailer in a severe twist, run it less than 15% of GVWR, or otherwise done anything to make me think I did this kind of damage.
If you're towing a heavy 5th wheel around (say something over a 13k GVWR rating perhaps?), you *need* to look at your shackles and leaf springs on a regular basis.
I now look over the suspension every time I put on the tire covers after a trip (we're weekend warriors). The new leaf springs are of a higher rating and have less of an unsupported span between the outermost leaf and the eyelet. Those thick shackle plates and zerk fitted bolts also give me further peace of mind for sure, but as the saying goes, "Trust, but verify."
Mine is unglued all along the edges. I ask the dealer and they said there are needed for expansion and contraction.
Because the elasticity of the EPDM (rubber) material isn't enough?
(assuming you have an EPDM roof of course.....)
If that's the case, I call BS on that one.
Try Eagle RV Park...we barely fit into their sites but as long as you're in, you're in...only a mile or so from the hot springs. About $30/night with GS discount....clean park...Dennis
I second this recommendation. While we only overnighted here in 2013, we also had a pleasant experience.
Get a new converter. And not another WFCO.
At the risk of sounding repetitive..........x3
My OEM Parallax deck-mounted converter died a similar death. The PowerMax was worth the $$.
I just went through replacement of this motor and Google led me to this older thread on RV.net:
Prior motor discussion
Since that thread is long since closed, I wanted to post an update here in this more recent one for anyone else now or in the future that needs sourcing help like I did. Hope no one minds.
For anyone looking to replace the motor on Lippert Stabilizer Kit 113407, the Klauber Machine and Gear P/N K01285-C800 is a DIRECT replacement.
While Klauber does not show this motor on their webpage, I assure you the part number is valid and available. Company contact information is here
My 5'er had the “Made in India” motor mentioned earlier (Mfg stamp of "Prabha"), but no part number stamped or printed on it anywhere. I poked around their corporate website and while I found a rear stabilizer jack system that looks suspiciously like the Lippert system (complete with similarly worded marketing material), I didn’t find a motor. Besides, I wasn’t interested in ordering from outside the U.S.
In my case, it looks like the road spray during wet weather penetrated the assembly in a manner similar to what DRSmart described. However, since I literally poured water out of the casing (!!!), I decided replacement was a better option than rebuild.
Lippert was kind enough to direct me to this page on their website for a replacement motor. While Lippert’s $315 price tag has certainly come down from the originally reported price of $530, it was still too high for my taste.
The price from Klauber you ask?
That’s not a typo.
Klauber was *VERY* prompt in their communication with me and shipped the motor the very next business day after I ordered it. One caveat with doing business with them is that they will ONLY ship COD. I don’t know why, but frankly I don’t care. I got a replacement motor delivered to my house in less than 7 days for $171.50.
It installed very quickly with all the original mounting hardware. I sealed a couple of areas with silicone, specifically the hole in the boot where the wire bundle exits, the area where the boot mates up with the back of the housing, and over the top of the paper sealing gasket along the circumference of the housing. Unless water penetrates through the drive shaft (unlikely), I don’t see a similar problem in the future.
Anyhow, I hope this helps someone either now or later on down the line.