Thanks for the info 45ACP.
I've been using a Scangauge to monitor some selected temps on my 6.4 but of course it doesn't tell you anything about the regen's. I may have to invest in an Edge.
On your 6.4, can you remember how many miles it went between regen's? How many miles did it have on it when you got rid of it?
Since it was a shortbed, the smaller fuel tank gave me about 320-360 miles between tanks for daily driving. I would average 1.5 regens per tank. Towing dropped that average to just below 1.
I never did track exactly how many miles between regens, so that's all I have.
My 6.4 had 34k on the odometer when I traded it in for my current 6.7
I have been through this issue fairly recently....except the failure I experienced put me on the side of the road.
I would recommend replacing ALL the spring packs and adding a wet bolt kit if not already installed. Peace of mind is priceless and if you are looking at upgrading to heavier packs, it would seem that's what you are after.....
Having owned both a 6.4 and now a 6.7, I can say with certainty that neither gave any constant indication of a regen taking place.
That was part of the reason I chose to install an Edge Insight CTS monitor. There is a small red "R" that appears at the top of the screen when a regen is taking place. The "R" appears about 10-15 seconds before the DIC shows "Cleaning Exhaust System" and it disappears as soon as the regen is over (or the truck is shifted into Neutral or Park).
As far as miles between regens, I can also say that my 6.7 performs regens about 40-50% less often than the 6.4. I had the same CTS installed in the 6.4 as I do now in the 6.7. I use both trucks as a daily driver and to tow the same trailer, so the comparison is valid in my view. The regen cycles are about the same length in time.
I get better fuel mileage out of my 6.7, even though I now own a dually (compared to the 2010 250 shortbed of my 6.4). Injecting raw fuel into the exhaust stream 40-50% less often must have something to do with this...
I haven't had any problems that would relate to your method of use.
I'm only a sample of one, but keep in mind that most people won't post anything about how great their rigs are. Instead, they will post about the problems they have/had and look for a solution to a problem.
If you don't intend to move the trailer around much or at all, I would say that pretty much any "modern" trailer will do the job with minimal upkeep.
I just happened to find one, but I don't know anything about the quality as compared to others. It is a 2011 model with a really good price. I love the floorplan (husband not so much).
Does anyone know if this model has the arched ceiling? Is it a tall enough unit if it doesn't. How does the sofa pull out into a bed? Are the lights on a switch, or do I have to reach up to turn them on? These are the things I can't find online.
I'm going to see it on Sunday, wish me luck!
Yep, I have one. Original owner.
I don't know what you mean by arched ceiling, but it's definitely a high ceiling in the Lounge and Kitchen area with a full height ceiling in the bedroom (I'm 6' tall and have no issues standing up in the bedroom).
The sofa is a "traditional" pullout sofabed with an Aerobed air mattress (at least that's how it came from the factory). I like the Aerobed because it has the 120v fill/drain control so it's easy to use and put away.
The overhead lights in all the rooms are run by a switch mounted to the walls. The reading lights in the entertainment center, above the rear recliners and sofa, above the bed, and the light above the kitchen table are all individually switched.
It was a good value for the money, but if at all possible you might want to step it up a bit for the 2013 (?) or newer models. They have the 6-point auto leveling and the color-matched mouldings around the slideouts (as opposed to the black rubber mouldings mine has).
Your signature doesn't say what kind of tow vehicle you have, but I hope it's capable. This model runs heavy (especially in the pin). It is definitely 350/3500 territory.
I use this:
and the on-board water pump to transfer water from the bladder into the freshwater tank via the city fill port.
To accomplish this, I hook up the bladder to the winterizing port, move the lever to "Winterize", and then hook up the fresh water hose to the outside shower by unscrewing the shower head and using one of these adapters.
After running the fresh water hose from the outside shower to the city water fill inlet, I open the cold water valve on the outside shower and turn on the water pump.