My truck came w/ Pirelli Scorpion STR's A/S and while a great 3 season tire I don't use them in the winter. Have had very good luck w/them and like AP stated, rotate every 5k. Truck sees more non tow w/ them, but very happy w/ performance as a tow tire.
Twin Bridge construction to end or be completed by Mem day w/e. Work on the bridges is being done on w/e and traffic in both directions reduced and crosses over median for a short stretch. Otherwise, unless there is an accident or some pop up construction, should be smooth sailing. From exit 28 (Fonda) or exit 27 (Amsterdam), it takes approx 45 min to 1 hour to get to exit 10 off the northway (I-87) doing 65mph staying on I-90 to Albany and exiting at exit 24 (87/northway).
Prior to purchasing my 2011 Ford I was fairly satisfied whith my 03 Chevy. Now that I have experienced the 2011 Ford I can hardly believe the difference. I've never stopped to work it out but my guess is that it costs about $10,000 per year for me to own and drive my truck. Running an old one would likely cost around $9000 per year to own and opperate. If you have the cash get a new one and enjoy it. If you want or need to save money - get a Honda Accord and a tent.
Can you better explain your rational on the $9000? I understand the $10,000 is mainly due to several hundred dollar a month payment, but how do you arrive at $9000/year for one that's paid for?
My dealer made a whip that plugs into the bumper plug and ran it up thru the LR stake pocket and then underneath the left box rail ending up at middle of box where they then mounted/attached another plug/receptacle under the left box rail. Whip is out of the way and plug isn't in the way either. Trailer cord plugs right in easily and can do all necessary work for hitch and cord right there w/o having to run cord over bumper and all.
19000-7720=11280. That's your total max target weight of any trailer your looking at fully loaded. Don't forget to subtract approx 200 lbs for hitch, so now your down to roughly 11,000 max trailer weight. From the 2 coaches you are looking at, add approx 1500-2000 for "stuff and now you are at max weight. IMO, you're good to to with either.
When I switched waxes a few years ago, our whole rig looked like what you described. I was shocked with the results. Speaking w/ a local HD body shop place, they quoted me about 1K do get shine back in rig. OR I could try a product they suggested and some elbow grease. I chose the elbow grease version and try as I might, only 1 side out of 4 did I get the shine back. May have yet to take to body shop and have them do their thing to the other 3 sides.
FWIW, the wax that caused all this was Eagle One Nano wax. According to the body shop, being a synthetic wax, gel coat sides and if applied in sun or warm day, the gel coat will soak it in faster than you can blink an eye. That's EXACTLY what happened. The Eagle One is NOT designed for gel coat. Metal surfaces or painted, no prob and shine on truck is awesome and goes on very quickly and easily.
Now use a wax made here in Utica, NY and very pleased with results and yes still have the smudge/swirl marks on 3 sides.
If you have mud flaps on rear fender/wheelwells of truck already, then buy some plain black plastic ones in same width as currents ones and cut them so are approx 6"-8" longer (lower than ones already mounted) and bolt to them. Get either the Ultraguard, Rock Tamer or another brand of mud flap that attaches to a 2" receiver that goes into rear of truck. By doing this, it will reduce considerably the amount of stuff kicked up by rear tires on lower area of your 5er when hitched up.
Thanks for the replies folks. As I read them, I do have to ask some as they make it out like I've spent "tons" of money on it. Truth is, I really haven't. In the course of 10 years all I've done is what I wrote about. These things are mechanical and do break down and if I got 10 years of service out of everything original, I think then the truck has been a good truck. Sure no one likes to pay coo-coo bucks for parts/labor, but if the cost of what I spent is spread out over 10 years, then it's cheaper than a payment. Sure there is always the big ticket items that may fly the coop and by then, it's "OS". Maintenance is done religiously, injectors check out fine. Even w/ new trucks that are maintained well break down. I also know there are many naysayers about the 6.0, but given the vast quantity that Ford sold, the ones w/ the most problems are the ones heard the loudest while those that run w/o issues never are heard from. Mine hasn't been w/o issues. True. Am I upset w/ the way Ford handled some things, Yes. But the truck has done what I asked of it. Just hard to swallow spending 700-900 bucks/month--that's a house payment with a tax deduction at least.
I have a '03 F250 in sig w/ the 6.0. Owned it since new (almost 10 years..May). Currently has 142,000 miles. Ford replaced the orig motor at 32,000 miles due to bad bed rails. New motor has done the same as well. Overall, the truck has been a great truck. But now w/ 150K coming up, I'm not sure what to do. Few years ago, I lost 3 inj within 6 weeks of each other. Last year I replaced the EGR valve, intercooler and had the FICM repaired. Last week the fuel pump went. On side note regarding the pump, I heard that on ave if your truck gets 15 mpgs, divide the total miles by 15 and that gives you a idea how much fuel has gone thru the pump. In my case, approx 9,400 gallons. Plus, I've had some body work (rust) done. She still looks like a new truck when cleaned up.
I had dealer price me up a '13 in the Lariat and XLT pkgs w/ what items I wanted. No surprise the XLT came in 5K less. Wife wishes for me to look at used, but I consciously cannot bring myself to consider it. While we don't have any truck payments which is nice, all it's going to take is the tranny or eng to go let alone something else on a smaller scale which would require time to delve into to eat away any savings we might have had. Not having the new emission******is nice as well and once off warranty, getting repairs will be that much more costly w/ the '13. So what to do? I'd like to run the '03 for a couple more years, but the perverbial "what if" is stuck in back of my mind.
FWIW, we are planning on a trip to FL this summer towing our camper and 5 people. (why on earth go to FL in the heat of the summer???? not my decision). Being a dark colored truck, it will attract heat pretty well not to mention having the 5er strapped to it's back. Upper rad hose was replaced 5 years ago, but I think the lower one is orig. Rad was flushed last year or so.
If it's running good and all, should I consider replacing it before something major fails or keep it for another year or two? I realize it's a personal decision, but would appreciate your input.
There is a floorplan in the Sandpiper line that has caught out attention. Closet dealer is 5-6 hours away. As I read thru some posts, one sort of asked the same question I have and that is how come they are that much cheaper than Cedar Creek, Montana etc? I'm not talking 5-10K less, more like 20-25K less! Are they that inferior in quality and construction? Have owned our Creek since new and toying w/ ideas on a new one and CC isn't offering what we are looking for. On outward appearance, the Sandpiper looks to be a very nice rig.
For those that own a Sandpiper, how do you like them? For those that don't, why would you not want to buy one? IF and I mean IF we go w/ the Sandpiper, I think we could get it at a good price, good/fair price for a trade and end up w/ less than 15K diff. But the nagging question in back of my mind still lingers, why so much less?
What's the opinions on both the Blue Ridge and Sanibel RV's? Where do they fall in the food chain within FR line up? Quality? Workmanship? Materials? Both lines have a couple floorplans that caught our eyes and may see one or two at upcoming shows in the area. Just wondered what folks think of them overall.
A LOT of opinions, but not answering the question which I think is, what to use.
Winter: Howes Diesel Treat (guaranteed not to gel) add amount specified to each tank--goes in fuel
Summer: Hot Shot Secret's Power Serve 405 add amt specified to each tank--goes in fuel
Semi Annually: Hot Shot Secret's Friction Reducer add 3-4 times/year--goes in fuel
Annually: Hot Shot Secret Stiction Eliminator add 1x a year per instructions--goes in OIL
Every 4th oil change: Motorkote Hyper Lubricant may do 1x a year if oil isn't changed a lot--goes in OIL
Transmissions, axles,transfercases: Motorkote Hyper Lubricant add per instructions--into fill hole/tube.
Howes avail in most truck stops and Tractor Supply Co.. Hot Shot Secret avail on line and some retail places (check web site). Motorkote avail at Wal-Mart or on line.
HSS Stiction Eliminator was developed for use specifically to use in Ford's 6.0, but WILL work in ALL diesels. It WORKS!!!!
Motorkote hasn't been beat in Timken bearing tests. It WORKS !!
I have small liquid medicine bottles I picked up at pharmacies that I use to measure out the HSS, Howes. Keep HSS in door pocket, Howes in bucket in pick up box in bucket (wear gloves as this stuff is slippery). The HSS Friction Reducer, I use a 20oz soda bottle. Regular measuring cup used ONLY for Motorkote.
I'm all in favor of improving the airflow on 5th wheels. As a semi driver who hauls pups though, the skirts don't fit our application. As for my camper, my point is this. My truck runs best at 70 mph which is 2,000 rpm's (peak torque). While I can pull it at 60-65, truck wants to lug a lot. Get up to 70 and she just wants to run and pull a LOT easier. I'm pushing the same amount of air out of the way doing 70 as I am doing 60-65 and still getting 10.5 mpgs fully loaded w/ A/C on. So for me, while I could see a slight improvement of mpg's going slower, the truck is working harder, I'll run where she wants to run best.
Air foils on roofs of trucks aid semis in getting the air up-n-over the top of the trailers. On pick ups, they just move the bug line up higher. No real savings as already mentioned.