RE: So what's your take on this article?
I've been in enough 55+ parks to have seen both the good and bad side of the lifestyle. I do think the good outweighs the bad much more then this very long article paints.
Now that most snowbirds are back in our summer places, what do you think about "Pismodise"?
It wouldn't do any good to try and think anything about this article, IMO. And, there can't be definitive answers to your questions either. The article is long alright. Hard to tell what it is about. Basically, a collection of essays, peoples stories, with conclusions of the author scattered so sparsely that it's hard to see any. OTH, mobile home living does deserve a research - which task was served poorly by the article.
Is it good or not to live in this particular park? Or in a mobile home? It depends. Lifestyles differ. One good quote was - "if you need more than 800 sq.ft, I can't help you". Smaller spaces, and less privacy too, which is good for some people and not so good for other. The article is so unfocused that sometimes leaves impression that the author didn't use her brains at all - just narrated what she heard. She is dwelling on the fact that the structure is depreciating - jeez, aren't residential structures depreciating too? OTH,the lot - if it's owned - can be appreciating. Not to say that lots - be it a park or residential lot - are always appreciating, we all know that real estate is a bumpy ride. Park maintenance fees can eat up a lot of capital gain as well, so it's not quite like a home in town, I agree. This is why they - usually - cost less than a home in town. It's your choice, investment side of this problem is not simple.
Is this {Pismodise} where you would want to be (or recommend) in your later years when snowbirding is not an option?
Nothing stops snowbirds from living in a park like this during winter, and I understand from the article that this is exactly what many are doing. OTH, when showbirding is not an option, then - what is the question? A lot of snowbirds are Canadians. Living in any US park all year round is not an option for them anyway, for reasons of tourist status and social pension and medical plan. For the US national it's a different matter, but I don't see why not. As long as medical and other services are reasonably close, the only difference will be - a smaller space, and whether this is important for you or not, only you can answer.
RE: Batteries
- How big is the solar system? If it is small (<50 watt) with the systems on and the converter not working it likely can't keep up
Anything over 10W is more than enough for "maintenance" of 2 batteries, meaning that it only has to compensate for self-discharge. Not to compensate for all kinds of loads. Unless he/she disconnects the loads when in storage, there are always some loads. People naively assume that there is no drain when they turn the ignition off. He has to physically disconnect the loads from the battery - and then there will still be self-discharge, but this is less than loads would drain.
But, since it's on 30A shore power when in storage - and at least one of the batteries died prematurely - you are right that charging systems are not working. Or water dried out - it's hot there. Or both.
RE: Dental work, Mexico
Is Algodones right by San Luis? Have been to El Gulfo several times but no idea how to find Algodonesk. Has anyone had any implants done there. and if so, what Dr. did you see? Is there RV parking on the US side (41 ft. FW)? Thanks everyone - great information.
You realize that implants require at least 3 visits spread over 4-5 months, do you? More, if this is an upper jaw, because then you will likely need bone grafting (reinforcing of the jaw bone). Eventually, with bone grafting the total time will be close to 8-9 months.
RE: Dental work, Mexico
While i understand the reality of finances for medical care in the USA, the only question I have asked myself when considering this option is "What alternatives do I have if any of the dentistry work needs to be redone"????
Probably the same options you have at home. Over the years I have had several fillings fall out and never once has a dentist said "no charge I messed up".
Ditto. A good professional - and I wouldn't use any other - usually has high ethical standards as well. Besides, when the cost is 1/4 of the US, you stand nothing to lose even if paying it twice.
Note - a "good professional", not a "good clinic". Normally, a good professional, especially if he and his receptionist speak English, would cost more than not-so-good, in the same area, and will have waiting room packed. In Baja Norte prices of a decent dentist are higher than in Algodones, still about 1/3 of the US prices and 1/2 of Canadian. Not very cheap, but cheaper. Keep in mind that some dental plans won't cover treatment outside the US and Canada, unless it was an emergency causing pain. Also, many dental works require more than one visit, so plan (and budget) accordingly. When you live hundreds or thousands miles away, this all adds up.
RE: Charge controller recommendations
If I choose to not bother with the third panel, I probably won't bother with MPPT again either.
If MPPT gain makes any sense, in this scenario (which I tend to think it doesn't), it's with 2 panels rather than 3. With 3 panels you'll get a lot more output that MPPT gain.
These panels are older, but are commercial grade and perform well in a wide variety of conditions.
Most panels perform well these days, as long as they are not too old. The days of solar cells covered with cheesy plastic and leads delaminating off the panel are long gone. But, if they are old, they perform poorly even if commercial grade - whatever this means. 10 years = roughly 10% drop in efficiency. This is the nature of PV cells.
And don't forget that 6 volt setting. Maybe I should leave them in series and try that.
I think most controllers don't have 6 volt setting. Besides, with 12V system of trailer, charging voltage has to be nominal 12 anyway, unless you split the bank for some temporary reasons.
RE: New RV'r - Batts + Chargers + Inverters = clueless
Okay, so I found the charger under my fridge. It's a Magnetek 6300A Model 6345 which I assume is far from what I need.
This thing is called converter I think, but what is it that you need? If it's boondocking, then converter model doesn't matter. Converter will be charging the batteries from shore power - when you don't really need batteries. Motorhome engine alternator - probably a separate device from that Magnetec - will be charging them as long as the engine is running, which is usually not long.
For a weekend it doesn't matter, you will charge them at home again.
To survive more than a few days without shore power, you need not just enough batteries but also a power source, and the engine is not a good source. Then you either have to run a generator, or a proper solar system - which would include a charger/controller, or both generator and solar. Some people with solar run generator occasionally. Most people with solar use generators a lot, because their solar is not adequate to their needs (needs too high or solar too small and/or not done properly). Microwave alone will cost you half of your daily energy.
RE: water pump
Having that bubble as a cushion against pressure spikes is important only if you are going to use the heater. Otherwise, who cares how soon the pumps kicks in.
RE: Charge controller recommendations
Sunsaver 15 still costs $200, lacking battery temperature control (optional $), and display (optional $). If I were to go MPPT route, I would rather get Rogue.
About how much "more energy" MPPT will extract... This is beyond my expertise. But I recall one of those debates - with the consensus somewhere after a dozen pages that MPPT gain, compared to PWM, is somewhere from 0 to 10%, depending on battery SOC and other things.
So... Get any cheap PWM, doesn't matter how cheap or what brand. If you really want more energy, then also get the 3rd panel - this will result in MUCH higher total energy at the same or slightly higher cost than MPPT + 2*75W.
RE: Charge controller recommendations
New Rogue was expected to arrive about this time, but I am not sure they have it yet. With the previous model sold out, they don't have those either. The last update says that new circuit board has arrived, so they must be doing some testing, so it's probably a few weeks or more until the first unit is up for sale.
I am waiting for Rogue. But, you don't have to. With 5A current of 2 small panels in series, Rogue $300+ is overkill. Wire them in parallel and get 15A PWM controller for a fraction of cost.
RE: 12 Volt Outlets
Installed a 12V power outlet, NOT a cheap "12v outlet". Installed on 12Ga wire, fused to main coach power circuit breaker. Use it for 400W inverter to power computer, Printer, phone charger, Nook charger, and just about anything I need. It is on a 15A fuse.
With #12 wire on the outlet, and thinner wire (#16?) throughout the rest of the rig, can anybody explain me how this would solve the problem?
RE: fridge
Also, how much of those 12V you are getting. Could be partial loss of contact, i.e. 11.5V instead of 12V, due to shorted/corroded wire or whatever. Take a multimeter and measure the DC voltage right where it goes into the fridge.
RE: Fixing hole in corrugated alum siding?
Bob - thanks. Yes, it's 0.025" (or 0.024), not 0.125. Very thin, less than 1/16". The problem is that rig is not in Canada. Check your email.
RE: Fixing hole in corrugated alum siding?
... the panel can be removed and replaced in about 1-2 hours time. Just undo the the corner moldings, and moldings around any trim.
One 23ft panel from front to back molding, with nice and accurate cuts around the front hatch, wheels, and furnace hatch? Ouch...
SMK's suggestion of diamond plate got me thinking. Might still do this. Just one side, there is no symmetry with all those storage and appliance lids and hatches anyway. What about cutting 3ft strip out of corrugated panel, and sticking it up on that hole somehow? Riveting, caulking, whatever. Would have to be more than 3ft, to cover adjacent dents and bumps, not just the hole. Cutting a piece out of 0.125 alum (I think it's 0.125), and keeping edges clean, without curls, is not easy. Have never done this.
Fixing hole in corrugated alum siding?
Got an ugly hole, 2ft long and few inches wide, just above the bottom frame. Narrow gate, don't ask.
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-tfjl-DoGk_0/UY8IqSzFy9I/AAAAAAAAANw/fH98Ehj7D78/w286-h306-p-o/Siding.jpg
Covered with a "handyman's secret weapon" - duct tape, you can see it. Looks surprisingly good on grey-ish paint of the lower siding, but need something longterm. Looks are not important - I think anything but a piece of original corrugated sheet will look ugly. First idea was a fiberglass soaked in epoxy, and I'm not impressed. Eventually will work, liquid resin doesn't want to stay on vertical surface, might need "painting" it with epoxy a few times. Then sanding and painting in matching color. Should've flattened those "bumps" with a hammer before applying fiberglass - there is steel and wood frame behind. Epoxy adheres to aluminum, but after hammering it came off in places, no big deal.
Is there any easier solution? Maybe 0.125" aluminum sheet on urethane caulk (or on rivets?), as a backing, and then again fiberglass with epoxy, sanded to proper shape and painted?
RE: solar panel choice
Man, are you sure you need stereo 4 hrs AND laptop 4 hrs AND satellite TV 4 hrs? I'm not questioning the whole purpose of camping out, with this kind of lifestyle. Just curious when you are going to eat and sleep...
RE: Small Solar - Inexpensive
Pianotuna is right. My experience with vehicle alternators has been not too good. You won't get much from it while on the road. When on the camp, it will take too long to charge 2*80 AH batteries from 50% to 90%, and too much fuel, fumes and noise.
Having said this, for a weekend warrior - as the topic TAD split between longterm and shorterm boondocking - merely adding another battery will suffice, and it doesn't matter how little the car alternator will help. You just fully charge it from 120V before the weekend.
RE: Small Solar - Inexpensive
The one mentioned by RJsfishin looks much more interesting, and is in the same ballpark price wise. My only question on that kit is what the specs of the controller are (not specified in the ad).
10A (says in specs). Can only handle 100W, nothing more. PWM for sure. It doesn't say PWM, but, c'mon... what else can it be...
