Well if the pics are any indication of the actual condition I think for what you paid offsets the price of insuring.
I see the ac, awning, pretty good size refer. Wet bath? Any other pics inside?
Was the p/o the original owner who had built or builder.
I assume by "not a name brand" and "custom built" referring to home built or otherwise not by a camper manufacture?
But as to insuring, were in CA. Camper requires neither title or registration, on its own I imagine it would be difficult to find off the shelf insurance compared to a MH or TT. Truck camper is cargo covered by the policy on truck. When bought new our truck ins satisfied lender requirement. (I don't know how that worked as camper was worth truck value but premium only went up a few $).
Later when we switched ins, camper paid off, we had requested it to be specifically added to truck policy. Few years later when we claimed against it they covered repair expenses-it was noted that camper was never added to policy but they had record of the request & agreement to add. Next bill went a up a few dollars and a single sentence was added that says
"This truck carries an on board camper" Thats it.
When originally added value was set $20,000 by answering the question, Whats it worth?. Name, feature, nothing else was asked.
The paying for a place to stay etc- Idunno, unless your truck has ins
that covers that. We had something like that on our old MH for a while but paid dearly for it. Like AAA roadside but it included some extras. Id assume again on truck?
My only suggestion at this point would be a local RV shop that sells TCs-might even contact Good Sam. Farmers or Allstate. tried the links on the NADA site that leads to Progressive-but it dead ends once you get to RV type selection. However alot of folks use progressive
One of many-An older thread, if value etc is against brand you might have to get appraised by some? source that would satisfy ins. Mention to your Geiko agent your probably be changing companies to get camper covered-they might send someone out? Affordable cost wise would probably be simple liability while in truck, the replacement for value-reimbursement for inconvenience-shelter/car rental etc, thats going to be expensive. I wouldn't think premium have anything to do with the campers worth and be well unjustifiable. I understand if you lost camper tomorrow, 500 miles from home you'd be up a creek but doesn't mean someone else is going to risk covering that for a few dollars. But practical would be up to you.
Rambling-last thought is Glen-L site etc, might yeild leads, many home builts out there-
All that aside & hope you find something that'll work for you,
really curious about the camper. It looks awfully nice for a $3500
camper. If home built some one went the distance judging from pics. (the 2 teaser pics I might add:). Took me a sec to identify that funny looking floor mat, maiden trip home?
Hmm downloaded Speckie it works-though ieSpell simpler, like its format. Speckie highlights the misspelled word(s), so when I run ieSpell at least I can catch when it runs words together.
PuzzlinieSpellll seemed to bworkingin checking as I go- when I added this second paragraph started jacking. Now its deleting prior space and last letter of previous word-leaving last 2 letters of replaced word-odd...thought I had it-need a testing area so i can just try different combinations-see whats triggering this before I give up on it-
Now thats peculiar-I misspelled combination above- highlighted just that sentence and ieSpell worked. And again on this sentence.
above was "trying paragraphss" 4 hard returns=4 missing characters, 4 leftover...
WOW. You cant see but Ive been playing and Its the hard return? If I delete all hard returns between '...sentence.' paragraph and 'trying paragraphs' ie works. For every hard return, thats how many letters are deleted when ie inserts corrected word. Only thing that comes to mind is this forum uses BBC code-verses other forums I frequent that use something else. Going to go visit some other BBC code base sites and see if repeatable. IeSpell usually works for me-it was only this forum thats become issue...I can check this entire paragraph and ieSpell works-if I add a return to split into paragraphs it starts jacking. So work around is either checking a paragraph at a time, ensuring no hard return are in selection or no paragraphs.
Could be that ieSpell seemed to work previously for me because usually don't add paragraphs-but more likely that I just gave up XP. As ieSpell hasn't been updated since 2010 and most software has spell checks now not likely to be addressed.
Is it still working for you on this forum? I have 3 different cpus with different operating systems, all use IEexplorer but different versions, also 2 differnt versions of iespell. Recently all/any, when using iespell specificaly only on this forum- The corrected word is inserted, deleting space before previous word and leaving last letter of mispelled word.
just FYI this is ieSpell corrected;
"Is it still working for you on this forum? I have 3 differentCPUss with differentoperatingg systems, all useIE explorerr but different versions.Recentlyy none when usingieSpelll work correctly butspecificallyl on the this forum. The corrected word is inserted"...
Been using iespell for couple of years-just odd-but unsure where the fault is.
Good call on the FRP. I also want to cover or replace the vynal covered ply. When I had ours apart for other repairs I knew was the time, but wasnt sure if repairs were going to work so didnt redo box wings. Regretting it now because a lot of my trim was replaced with semi structual/permanent angle. Doable but need remove/redo all previous work. Suppose I could cut around existing stuff or trim to new trim, but should have taken the time, it will be 5 times harder now. Oh well.
I should let this motivate me to get on our right wing (skirt). Its getting pretty bad. Appreciate the Brandsport link on the 2" molding. I was wondering what to do there as I know Ill need to recut the match line & the existing 1" trim wont cover. I assume its solid color allowing for the creative trimming?
New trim certainly looks to have 'blended' & helped the stark differance in filon colors. Looks good. The interim door repaint, not so much :).
Yes I believe the motor #75625, actually reffered to as "short leg motor" is the one your looking for. I would still verify. Refurb would be nice
Avg price Im seeing new is $200http://www.panther-rvproducts.com/Atwood-75625-Power-Motor-Head-Electric-Jacks-75625.htm
Not having an easy means to hook up 110v maintainer I've been using one of the 1.5 watt panels. $12, small enough to set on dash-My hope was just to offset normal parasitic discharge in our truck of about 110ma. Figured anything it put back good. Surprisingly it does (did) seem to help.
Plan was to get another when they go on sale as max output is about 100ma at best, however placing inside thru the windshield cuts in about half. Depends though how bright as to how much sun gets thru. Super bright sun will get about 80ma if not so bright may drop to 40ma. With 2 closer to what truck uses. It does extend the discharge time for us. At 2 weeks batts would be about 12.4 instead of 12.2.
Though OP stated a few different things and future plans, Id agree about checking parasitic drains-sounds excessive.
I just went thru mine again yesterday. Though drain more panel output batteries were dropping excessively again. This thread motivated me. Found drain was at 280ma. Not a lot but double what it should be. Easy enough pulling fuses to see which circuit-not so easy determining what to fix. Spent a good part of the day and accidentally found it. Also discovered why it seemed to be intermittent untill it became a constant problem. But a Ford thing.
Checked batteries this morning 12.6 and only charged by driving for 15 min last night. Amazing what a few milliamps can do. Played with the panel. To see what it could do or larger panel. Placing panel outside in full sun, some of aux drains off so parasitic down to about 60ma can actually see positive flow of about 15ma. So another panel maybe or single larger watt is planned.
Checking your parasitic drains would yield what you need for panel. Curious what 10 watt panel with controller you found. Size?
Elkhorn printed on a vinyl sticker- usualy on left side between door & left tailight on exterior sideing. You 'might' look on inside of cabinet doors. Im unaware on a truck camper any other addtional 'vin' tags, never heard on a truck camper, the frame stamped? Not a vehicle. The number would have been on original paper work. Is the vin or a serial number on the title seller has? Have a aluminum plate stamped at local trophy shop -rivot it to the propane box IF you need it. Otherwise long gone...
To my knowledge Florida does not require a truck camper to be registered or even require title.
yes typically water tank. as noted top generally screwed on, buried in carpet. Not room for much else in the box- though good to access for running wires across camper etc. On ours the gas lines, bundles of 12v & 11Ov wiring crosses thru tank box gas. Any wiring Ive add I used box to cross camper. Some you can access tank fill & drain connections from top-or at least see. Not a lot a structure- frame on ours is a few pine/fir 1x1's-prying would not be advised.
I didnt rescrew ours, used some angle brackets on wall-top slips under and used screw hook & eyes to hold front. But I added an access port in tank so wanted easier access for refilling tank on occasion.
Ya unfortunately thats what I was thinking- or at minimum, I didn't understand what was really happening.
original comment "The jacks and jack brackets are in bad shape and add to that my uneven driveway surface" and "Scary as hell seeing the front jacks bend like that! Obviously I need a new set of jacks at very least the fronts."
At least I'm not seeing "jack bending"? and/or the brackets. But as OP has an appointment to have looked at all will be revealed and Ive misunderstood the issue.
...Have power to the black wire running to a gray box but I'm betting that is for the 120 plug in not too far away....
The grey box w/black cord and romex SHOULD be 110v circut-not part of heater or any other 12v circut. Couldnt help but note the use of cover typicaly used on exterior raintight box, odd, thats an expensive cover for a junction box? Common on an A/F?
Dont know what a 'ticker' is but there should be 12v at the (correction) red wire connection that goes INTO heater, (blue wires are t-stat). If not then I would verify 12v out at fuse panel. I would start out assuming simplest-no power getting to heater.
Second would be thermostat or wiring to it. I would as suggested remove wires from t stat and tie together. If fan doesnt come on imediatedly it will as soon as (if) a bad connection/lack of power somewhere else is found. IE the mentioned plug if you have one, between slide and camper, could be obvious source of fault.
If 12v out at panle, I would pull wire loose at panle & check continuity between that end of the red wire and end of wire at heater. Again mentioned was a plug.
If power at red wire to heater, and wires Disconnected from t-stat and tied together, last thing I'd check is jumping t-stat wires at heater to verify no break in leads to t-stat. If theres power and t-stat wires are connected then its into the heater itself.
Yes Solar pre wire plug on roof, inside would be a 12ga blue+ & white- wires terminating behind battery compartment. Pages 48 & 95 of your manual-
Theres a link on the TCU thread to Lance manuals. If you dont have a manual I would download and print a hard copy for your year. Worth there weight in paper. One of the things about Lance Ive apprecaited was the inclusion of schematics for the various camper systems, plumbing, electrical.
I did the conversion a few years back. The difference is I had the old style table wall mount bracket and not the new push down bracket, so my method might not work for yours. I have a thread on my conversion but not sure how easy it is to find it since I never myself had much luck searching past threads. I can post post a few pics if you cant find the thread. My conversion offers 4 separate uses for the dinette. I also have an AF 1140.
Just FYI, your original post is (Here) however couple of the pictures dont show-and the rest are pretty small. The more recent reposting cinca linked to shows larger (& all 4) pics. thread
Oddly most of our 1st visits to just about every area we've been has been while raining-and have have usually been the best. 1st week in Yellowstone it was raining-not sure it just seems to add so much more depth. Especially in the desert-colors just come to life. Every place we've been to when raining has been just magical. If it turns to a downpour we head back to camper-but soon as it slows down enough were in our ponchos out trapesing around. If it doesnt, makes hanging out in the camper seem ok- watching the high dark greys in the sky or listening to the rain just welcome.
Ours the heater itself is considerabley smaller than the space it occupied or used. The heater box fits thru a 7 3/4 X 17" hole to ~19" deep. As install instructions state minimum clearances are 1/2", the actuall space you might reclaim could be considerably smaller than what I gained. But if removing for weight-storage wouldnt be a consideration. Other than the Wave heater that replaced our furnace & wood to refit, all other items that are stored in this area are redistributed stuff we already carried. Still I guestimate 25# or better savings.
Just FYI, got the heater out of storage, sat on scale, heater complete with the duct hoses, registers, fittings, gas line, 2x2 block-everything except the wires & thermostat & 1 of the registers (thats covering hole in cabinet) weight just a tad over 37 pounds.
Heavier than I remember. Its an Atwood 8520-IV-DCLP- output rating of 1600BTU.
Cut out cauking around front jack mounts and recaulked. When I had reset mounts last year it was cold. Though I waited a few days to trim buytl tape-and then trimmed again couple of days later before caulking, appearantly it wasnt done migrating. 1st trip out and warmer weather started oozing again and pushed most of the caulking loose. Oh well-done, it "might" rain- hopefully ensuring jack were still sealed I didnt jinx the possibility.
Theres only about a gazzlion designs of boxes, including a lot of lighter 'plastic' ones. The drawer is nice-some have a bunch of drawers- bing images
The Swing out caught my eye shown by MORSNOW. A bit smaller than some but can easily be removed, as I also couldnt use on the left side rear becuase of camper design, actually the bracket might be a problem.
Mostly Ive looked at them for use when camper off, ensuring no interferance when loading camper. A single right side box mounted forward of wheel well-would be my choice, could be larger, access from outside or pulling camper back if I need somenthing in there. Also need to add floor tie down point box will cover for non camper duties.
I removed ours.
Resale just an odd concept for me, truly has no meaning. Ive never bought anything with the intent of getting rid of and so limit what I may or may not do.
Our furnace gas line was connected to a gas flair tee using a flair fitting, I simply capped with appropriate brass gas flair nut. I removed because we also didn't use, used a small bottle cat heater. Though removed more to utilize the space it occupied which was the entire forward bench seat box. Our main heater now is a Wave3 or small electric when available with the bottle cat as backup.
Where the furnace box sat now is a large box on a slider for water, rack for 1# bottles, small area to outside wall can be accessed by a door, replacing exterior furnace grill. Used interior air exchange grill for inside door. Cut bench top in half & hinged so also accessible from top. Where the vents ran (3 outlets were contained in seat box) is now an added VERY large drawer for Margarets towels & stuff, smaller upper drawer was already there. Always thought on capped outlet I'd run another valve & coupler for outside BBQ but just never have.
Though furnace and documentation is in a box its never going back in.
As our elctric bill is going thru roof contemplating installing it in shop. Any way you 'could' leave or use outside grill to cover hole, just sealing so its not open. I had a door from previous project. What the heck- heres some pictures...
Drawers & 'new' inside door, attached inside grate to a piece of ply and piano hinge.
How divided, slide out box tray we carry 4 (1)gal water, magazine rack & holder for 3 1# propane bottles (new & empties, partials go in basement tray). Outside accessible side normally keep the T/L arms & stuff. Pic before door added was sealed with duct tape & plastic bag,
Tray rolls out, piece of 1/4 ply on drawer brackets.
And matching door-it was from other side of camper where it had been replaced with a larger door 5 years earlier..
Things you could do..ours as I mentioned was in seat box so easy re-utilzation of space. If I hadnt planned on re-using the space-furnace probalby would still be there.
Hm never seen an LED marker light that had a removeable lense, most are sealed? Except where an led bulb is installed in incandesant fixture. Be really curious to see picture of that-more so the 'dimming' bulb arrangment. Unless as noted fixture has multiple LEDs and a few have stopped working the only other way it could 'dim' is a serious reduction or restriction in power or ground?
I like the appearance of LEDs & generally about 1/4 current draw but I'd be hard pressed to change out all 14 of my marker lights w/ 194 bulb which might draw 7 amps. While less likely to allow water intrusion, be nice at least on nose, LEDs still have wires & screws passing thru skin so its not an install & forget. Especially if converting over older lights, like mine, that have a prexisting 1" hole in camper skin. They arent the cure all to fix all IMO. Nice but still need to inspect/recaulk as primary water intrusion I dont think is from behind the lense.
All that said when I change or add lights they are LEDs-mostly due to I simply like them. I have a brand new set of LED cab lights waiting to replace failing/leaking LED cab lights.