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 > Your search for posts made by 'AnEv942' found 221 matches.

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  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: Small step for camper

The flip over steps-flip over and store setting on bumper. Standard simple step included with a lot of campers...It doesnt hang when on road. https://photos.smugmug.com/AnEv942/Glow-Step/i-pdJmNGb/1/13b2f454/O/IMG_0399.jpg width=640 height=480 We use to have ours center mounted, when stairs weren't used it was, would fold over to store on road. When stairs used it hung underneath. https://photos.smugmug.com/AnEv942/Glow-Step/i-GhNQpVM/1/523942cc/O/tlbs29f.jpg Worked well, step to use when scissor steps were not (on road), out of the way when stairs used. We use to carry the stairs inside, along with the bumper 'basement step. But with the change to the stow & go basement step can stay mounted and since flip over couldn't any longer it got moved over. Hm I wander...Anyway... the question where to get a simple flip over? THAT is the question. Come up a few times, only half million on the road but finding source not easy. Likely a lot hanging in folks garages.. Many are formed tube with step but could be easily cut plate etc. Yours may need extended brackets, bumper is short, to get enough height between top of bumper and flipped over top of step. Take some imagineering to get angles right. Torklift uses some on different bumpers they make but never seen just step listed. Contacting a camper mfg might yield source.
AnEv942 11/13/17 07:12pm Truck Campers
RE: Small step for camper

Guys-you dont have the Torklift Glowstep Revolution-you have the Torklift Glowstep Stow-N-Go, as do I. Completly different system? While would also solve, replacing existing steps with the Stow-N-Go, she already said keeping originals. But it wouldnt be that difficult to adapt over...the ease of use-instant deployment just amazing. IF they could be top tread flush mounted, retain the step down distance. Looks like width of tread might equal landing.
AnEv942 11/13/17 10:41am Truck Campers
RE: Small step for camper

What would work is a simple flip over step. I looked thru your blog looking for pictures of your camper and you have bumper, also the required brackets. (scaling and cropping induced color & quality shift) https://i.imgur.com/EypNwnB.jpg It looks as though your landing utilizes the mounts under bumper and would interfere with a flip over so additional brackets would be needed. https://i.imgur.com/2opkkys.jpg On yours as door swings to ladder probably need to mount on left side- This is ours, I moved original flip over brackets a bit further to right side. Just pieces of channel riveted underneath or nut&bolt if can reach. https://photos.smugmug.com/AnEv942/Glow-Step/i-mZGvzRB/1/bb65852d/O/IMG_0409.jpg width=640 height=480
AnEv942 11/13/17 09:58am Truck Campers
RE: Scissor Steps determining how many steps you need

All pages on Torklifts site related to steps have calculator for finding number of steps. Well if there is a calculator I can't find it on any of the pages for steps I'm going to go with the Stow N Go, and as soon as they return my email I will choose the number of steps I need About mid page, red box thingi, though called 'application guide', my bad. Pick a number of steps & color, it will give height of bracket and part number. Again top tread for flush mounting would be approx. 4" lower.
AnEv942 11/09/17 10:00pm Truck Campers
RE: Photo Bucket...

... I uploaded over 300 photos from my vacations on imgur. The only complain is that they all go on single page, so when you are on slow net, it is taking a while. ... On my imgur account I created albums, 15 I think, so pics aren't in one huge folder. Then selecting 'all images' after logging in, selecting a folder it displays thumbnails. If you go in directly to an album view from log-in, yes, it displays all photos full size one after another-like a overly long blog. Painful. Any attempt/method to circumvent p/b lockout doesn't take long for them to 'fix'.
AnEv942 11/07/17 09:04pm Truck Campers
RE: Photo Bucket...

Yup, p/b broke the internet. Suprised you only now were notified. There is no 'fix' to continue seeing the linked p/b pictures unless you pay the ransom fee. There are many options moving forward. Requires effort on your part to change links from p/b to new host site. Initially I opened an account with Imgur.com, free simple IF you have a backup of photos stored on p/b. IMO The provided Imgur quick link works for simple one time uploads, but to access again, storing etc an account should be opened. I have multiple photo backups but I was able to download all albums from p/b to keep album structure. (It appears, at least on my p/b account, now you cant even download entire albums? insult to injury). However I ended up also going to Smugmug.com. Primarily, though cost involved, it keeps original file names which simplifies re-linking older posts. On older threads that are closed that you cant edit, there is no 'fix' to keep pictures alive. Threads that are not closed and you can edit, you can relink pictures to new current host.
AnEv942 11/07/17 10:51am Truck Campers
RE: Scissor Steps determining how many steps you need

All pages on Torklifts site related to steps have calculator for finding number of steps. Just to clarify the Revolution is for trailers/motor homes etc. that have inset area for stored steps. There are a few T/Cs that could use but most need external surface mounting. The Revolution includes the upper adjustable box bracket, Glow Steps and Landing Gear adjustable feet. https://i.imgur.com/dlUVu0J.jpg https://www.torklift.com/rv/glowstep-revolution The Stow N Go system includes an external or surface mount bracket that allows storing steps, Glow Steps and the Landing gear feet. https://i.imgur.com/wQT5AWp.jpg Steps can be drop or flush to bumper mounted. https://www.torklift.com/rv/stow-n-go The Glow Steps include simple bracket to attach steps to bumper/camper wall. It can be used to drop mount or flush top tread to bumper. https://i.imgur.com/5Hg8P1e.jpg Note when flush mounting you lose ~4" in height, (half a tread). Calculators on Torklifts site for the Glowsteps to find number of steps, results show mounted bracket height, tread would be lower ~4". https://www.torklift.com/rv/glowstep My only recommendation if going Torklift, though I've since added the StowNgo bracket and Landing Gear feet to our Glowsteps and cant say enough about the system, is getting the wider 8" treads verses the standard 6" treads. Having previously had an other brand of steps (that were only 6') the extra cost for the Glowsteps verses some scissor steps, just no comparison IMO as far as stability and use.
AnEv942 11/05/17 10:30am Truck Campers
Test

I'm amazed every time I visit the Forum Technical Support forum how many threads are moved because asking RV related questions, would seem more energy spent in that than addressing Forum issue topics... Anyway just testing link to resurrected thread thru site done-link deleted
AnEv942 11/03/17 12:54pm Forum Technical Support
RE: Delays in TR Sticky Update

Try, if you haven't, logging in thru other portals for editing longer threads. For any long posts or edits Ive been unable to get thru the captcha on RV net. Endless loop Seems some aspect of the forum features are broke thru the different portals, its logging in thru portal to access the feature you want. I would disagree about it being worth the effort
AnEv942 11/01/17 09:31am Truck Campers
RE: Trickle Charger for Ford Diesel

The "Turns on and off as needed" is a red flag, but you know that already? Not sure what you mean- it doesnt actualy turn on/off, not the best wording. But once maintainer has reached float, 12-24 hours, will stay there, holding volts @12.68. Unless I draw down battery, then it will go back to charge mode as high as 14.4 for a few minuets to few hours, depending how much have drawn battery down. Thats how most small maintainers function. Most are designed to use 24/7, I've never experienced one that boiled a battery. I have another Schumacher SEM1562A thats been in use for years 24/7 on our jeep. Except the HF you mentioned, it doesnt change what its trying to push into battery. I use one in the shop to periodically charge 7amp scooter battery, about 4 hours. Left unattended it will go as high as the 15+v its capabale of and would cook battery. I wasnt sure if the Schumacher would maintain 2 batteries but does it quite well- not a charger, thouhg will bring batteries up just not its purpose. I have parasitic drain of about 72 ma which after week of not driving batteries fall to 12.2v, 12.1v & below truck will not start.
AnEv942 10/28/17 11:06am Truck Campers
RE: Trickle Charger for Ford Diesel

I use a Schumacher, hard mounted in truck. SE-1-12S-CA Fully Automatic Onboard Battery Charger - 1.5 Amps. Been in use since Feb 2016. Maintains both batteries in our 01 7.3. Mines outside so added a NOCO Genius GCP1 Black 13 Amp 125V AC Port Plug so I can close the hood. Maintainer AC port
AnEv942 10/27/17 07:32pm Truck Campers
RE: Torklifts & Fastgun's

? I read the question was steel or aluminum Torklift tie downs, not H/J verses T/L. And opinions on finish of fastguns. My vote also is stainless on the fastguns. On the tiedowns, I couldn't justify cost of the aluminum Talons, and have never cared for the look of them. But don't have road salt issues which might be consideration, a block from the ocean rust, as far as function, hasn't been problem. As to covering fuel door, our long bed also requires removing to refuel but simply is not an issue, wasn't even when I had chain and turnbuckles and used crescent to loosen nuts. DRW fenders stick out further than the tiedowns, tail pipe among other things hangs lower. I use locks, other than to keep from growing legs is to positively ensure they don't self disengage, regardless how unlikely.
AnEv942 10/27/17 10:50am Truck Campers
RE: See Level Tank Monitor install (long)

Thanks-Now that it's done, watching the monitor is one of those 'Quest for Fire' moments-not dealing with the old monitor. https://photos.smugmug.com/AnEv942/Monitor/i-CMn5J8b/0/5da97728/S/quest-S.jpg work2much, is that what you were doing riding in your basement tray when you mentioned wiring in other thread? Working with the old system and the new- I have to wonder at the cost savings or why not offered on more RV units-It seems as the See Level system is independent of tanks would cost less for Rv mfg. Less labor/cost to manufacturer custom tanks, less wiring less cost to custom spin weld on fittings. At least a wash. But suppose as its been in use so long (old system)probably an industry standard that's already in place, costs lower than appears. Can only guess
AnEv942 10/23/17 02:59pm Truck Campers
See Level Tank Monitor install (long)

Having campers fresh water tank box open due to recent leak, as much water as I had spilling out floor seams assumed tank cracked and would be replacing. But tank had moved and pulled the fill line loose-just sloshing out. Having saved price of new water tank and black tank hasn't read in a while, grey just jumps around decided to install a SeeLevel tank monitor system, since I had so much open- now would be the time. Have wanted to upgrade for a while. Grey likely could be cleaned, recent issue. Black tried couple of times and hasn't responded to cleaning- stuck on 2/3 for a while. Even if I could restore tired of not really knowing status- armed with justification and a bunch of excuses decided to pursue. Certainly not a how-to, just the install in our camper. Parts on order https://photos.smugmug.com/AnEv942/Interior/i-7ScvCSF/0/eaf20bf1/O/709-P3.jpg width=330 height=232 After opening up to get access, measuring for senders and verify flat surface to attach, and whats involved, Ordered Garnet SeeLevel II with 709-P3 monitor thru one of their recommended vendors, rvupgradestore.com. Reads battery in volts, fresh, black & grey tanks in 0-100%, has 3-way (unpowered) switch for water pump. Many configurations, switch options, even a bluetooth unit. Included are 3) 12" tank senders, trimable to a degree but you can substitute a 6"(free) or 16"(slight cost) senders to closer match tanks. The 12" or 16" are stack-able if you have really tall tank. Other than seeing actual tank contents thru its cycle is the senders attach to outside of tank. No more misreadings due to sensor getting dirty. Best information is manufactures site, shows available options, downloadable instructions. Garnet SeeLevel Prior to ordering you need to get access to tanks, verify height of tanks for sender lengths and that you have flat surfaces to mount senders. Also making sure that area around location to mount senders, any metal is at least an 1” away from either side or the top and bottom of the sender, and at least 2” away from the face of the sender as it will interfere with sender readings. When choosing senders: Fresh water tank height allow top of pump outlet and bottom of vent for height. The senders have different min lengths and cut-able segments. Can't mix senders, stacked senders must be trimmed to equal lengths 6" JS =1" cuts to 4" minimum12" ES =1 1/2" cuts to 4 1/2" min.16" SS =2" cuts to 6" min. https://photos.smugmug.com/AnEv942/Monitor/i-zHPBnXC/0/f845ccb3/M/watert13-M.jpg width=650 height=480 I used a 6" for 7 1/2" black, 12" cut to 7 1/2" for 8 1/2" grey and 16" for 18" fresh Tank. Note the monitor reads 0-100% but in blocks of 3,4 or 5% depending on sender length. You can reuse existing wiring which simplifies install. I choose to leave old system intact and run new wire. SeeLevel uses one lead & ground that goes to all tanks, verses separate feeds from each tank. If reusing old wires its cutting ground and feed, attaching to new sender. https://photos.smugmug.com/AnEv942/Interior/i-8ZX2d4d/0/3f2e2dc9/M/see2-M.jpg width=600 height=450 Typical on old system is the 3 level sender wires are bundled together at tank in a 'button' and then continue to old monitor. After the 'button' is where you would cut wire and connect to new sender. At the monitor, it's tying all existing feeds (mine was red/green & blue) to the new monitors blue wire. All grounds are tied together. Eyeballing what I'm getting into But I'm running new wire. First order is pre wiring to all tank locations and to monitor location. Then install monitor. Then temporarily install senders, check placement and readings. Once happy, solder leads to sender, stick on sender & finalizes wiring connections. Note the tanks MUST be clean. I used water, then lightly sanded with 220 to ensure flat, wiped with acetone then alcohol. Checking access, measure for senders..Fresh tank is open, easy to access. Straight shot to monitor. https://photos.smugmug.com/AnEv942/Monitor/i-ZxX2Vp9/0/533bfed9/M/watert4-M.jpg width=600 height=450 Black tank once P-trap dropped also fairly easy to access. Direct path to valve compartment for wires. https://photos.smugmug.com/AnEv942/Monitor/i-CjGRPjj/0/aff447b3/M/watert6-M.jpg width=600 height=450 The Grey tank is bad, 2-3 inch access, the only flat surface is facing bumper. Picture is with cover, a plastic box, already removed, laying on our back looking up. This one is going to be difficult. Mostly in correctly positioning sender without the adhesive backing grabbing-only one chance. No other options. End of tank is in valve compartment so wiring will be easy. I'll run wire from rear valve compartment to forward water tank box then up to monitor. Pre wire Picked up 2 40' rolls of 18ga blue & white wire to begin pre wiring. https://photos.smugmug.com/AnEv942/Monitor/i-Xs6ZJzz/0/6761178a/M/watert7-M.jpg width=600 height=450 Wires run from black and grey tanks into valve compartment. Wire dropped from bathroom cabinet into valve compartment that will be routed to fresh water tank, these will all be tied together. https://photos.smugmug.com/AnEv942/Monitor/i-rHmGLdg/0/a2f40819/M/watert7b-M.jpg width=600 height=450 ...pause-reconsidering if I really want to run new feed all the way to front...new wire is pushed into valve compartment from under bath sink. To get from bath to front will take couple of hours. The existing wires are laying in bottom - I could cut and splice into them and forgo the effort....hmmm https://photos.smugmug.com/AnEv942/Monitor/i-Bq8nLTJ/0/599a7f22/M/watert9-M.jpg width=600 height=450 Sticking with plan, only took an hour to run behind wardrobe, stove & under sink into water tank box. Not to bad, surprised me. Getting up to monitor location took considerably longer which surprised me more. I pair from black/grey, the other to monitor, again these will be tied together, adding another pair that will connect to fresh water sender. Went back and loosely tidied wiring a bit with stubs yet to be attached at tanks for senders once they arrive. https://photos.smugmug.com/AnEv942/Monitor/i-3W356DL/0/dfccb3f5/M/watert11-M.jpg width=600 height=450 Wires in valve compartment from black & grey and lead to water tank box where it will continue to monitor. https://photos.smugmug.com/AnEv942/Monitor/i-ZWDg8XQ/0/bcc4c0a9/M/watert12-M.jpg width=600 height=450 And water tank box. Once senders are connected wires will be taped to tanks, finalize securing wires. But pre wiring done-next is installing the monitor, wire the new leads to monitor to read senders and verify placement as they are temporarily connected and taped to tanks. Instructions outline this. Basically on tanks your filling want them to measure 100% a bit before actually full, on the fresh water that your draining, to read 0% just prior to pump outlet sucking air. Tank heights and sender lengths vary so temporarily placing will allow checking. Ideally cycling tanks- which I will on fresh and grey-the black tank I'm not, check but not cycle. Sender is short enough, 6" on 7 1/4" tall tank to place 1/2" from bottom, 3/4" from top and be good, hopefully read 0% with a gallon of water, and hopefully, looking down toilet, says 100% before dump pipe filling. Monitor https://photos.smugmug.com/AnEv942/Monitor/i-qbjvvPJ/0/821e8461/M/watert3-M.jpg width=600 height=450 Taking the opportunity to shuffle stuff around and move the new monitor out of corner where old one was. The water pump switch wires will transfer to new monitors switch. Move the tank heater switch to cover old monitor hole. New monitor requires fuse at 7.5 amp. Circuit is fused at 10amp and feeds other items so cant just lower fuse value. Could add inline fuse and stuff in wall but noted board had empty hole/allowance for another switch. https://photos.smugmug.com/AnEv942/Monitor/i-Z6Tz9Zd/0/982ea89c/M/watert14-M.jpg width=600 height=450 I used that to install a panel mount fuse holder. Removed pump switch and filled a flat on fuse holder to orient it on panel and fit to hole width using pump switch hole to size. https://photos.smugmug.com/AnEv942/Monitor/i-ZfvdKdw/0/308b7062/M/watert15-M.jpg width=600 height=450 Then cut hole thru face in other panel switch location to accept the fuse holder, locating vertically to miss components on back of board. Hole tight enough to contain, backing nut with nylon washer just snug. https://photos.smugmug.com/AnEv942/Monitor/i-7rH2fp3/0/5292f37f/M/watert17-M.jpg width=600 height=450 Opened up wall kitchen side of wall to 3"x1 7/8" accept monitor with new fuse sticking thru existing holes(s). Locating as far as I could to counter edge and still cover original hole in wall. On the water pump switch used flag terminals as depth of wall is only an inch deep. Its snug. The thru hole goes into small cabinet that has a drawer which is 4" shy of reaching wall. Where factory ran wires/cabling that branches every where. In that space between wall and end of drawer is quite a bundle of wires. FYI Garnet has available a larger spacer to cover existing oversized hole if needed, also a rubber gasket if mounting on metal, but they don't sell any thing to surface mount or space out panel. The flag terminals touch back wall. If I had used spades or soldered straight onto switch- um not sure. Wires on plug I had to bend at right angle and its still pushing bottom of panel out. Need an additional 1/8-1/4" of space. Guess that's one reason I've seen so many of these mounted to a block of wood? Need about 1 1/4" from face of wall to back of hole, I have 1 1/8". Round to it... https://photos.smugmug.com/AnEv942/Monitor/i-3DcBCCJ/0/0ec5c327/M/watert18-M.jpg Monitor unplugs so will make spacer later-but its wired. And mounted... https://photos.smugmug.com/AnEv942/Monitor/i-Q3bXpCh/0/3641e49c/M/watert19-M.jpg width=600 height=450 Verifying pump switch function-. Fortunately display only on a few seconds-really dislike red displays. The brightness level is adjustable though. Also picked up a Mopeka LPG tanks monitor. Bluetooth senders attached to bottom of tanks measure contents & send info to this or 'smart' device. Was going to install over old water pump switch hole but also relocating where easier to reach, plus wider than space between SeeLevel panel and tank heater switch. Also mounting vertically to fit space better. Just need something to plug old switch hole. On to the senders. SeeLevel senders mounted Fairly straight forward. Having marked location just peel and stick. Solder leads, shrink warped, use some left over eternabond tape Gorilla tape to secure wire leads at tanks. https://photos.smugmug.com/AnEv942/Monitor/i-q2KGQDC/0/d5b4b823/L/watert20b-L.jpg Started with fresh water as it was the easiest. WOW. Good thing. Getting near anything once sticky exposed it grabs tenaciously and is not coming loose. Wasn't prepared for that. Luckily it was in correct position. I guess they were serious when stating 'you get one chance'. I'll pay more attention at the holding tanks. Bottom of picture is tank draining, another 1/4" and tank shows empty, which is still tiny bit above pump outlet. Cool. Next is the black tank. Surprisingly this was the easiest of the 3. https://photos.smugmug.com/AnEv942/Monitor/i-TDQFQT6/0/ced1e7a3/M/watert22-M.jpg width=600 height=450 I guess because sender shorter, I could get both hands in there (once P-trap dropped). Doesn't show in picture but mirror shows perfect placement. Shrink and solder leads. Monitor shows 0% which bottom is just wet, maybe half gal. Spaced with a bit more gap at top so should be good. https://photos.smugmug.com/AnEv942/Monitor/i-BwSkSMP/1/d6f54cc1/M/watert23-M.jpg width=600 height=450 Last is the grey. I knew it was going to be a bear and it was... Got it, though really close to top, that grabbing out of my hands thing. Which not really a bad thing as bottom of tank has quite a curve. Just higher than wanted. Soldered the leads and used gorilla tape to secure wires. Cycled water, at 100% tank will take another 2 gallons before coming up in shower so were golden. Then lapped from bottom up with tape to give some protecting from elements as this is semi exposed even with the cover. Played with the monitor a while-just sweet... https://photos.smugmug.com/AnEv942/Monitor/i-sRFmMrK/0/c410c9cb/M/tankrins1-M.jpg width=600 height=450 While everything was open I had added a tank rinser to both black and grey tanks. Checked them again for leaks and its all good. By golly were done. Started putting it all back together. Reinstall the grey tank cover and button it all up. Tidy up all the wiring, reinstall water tank box. Wondering how much water I pushed into tanks testing rinsers I push the button on the black tank and it shows 5%, This is so cool.. And it all turned to pooh- well grey... Push the grey and it ...shows "OPn". What... push the fresh and it shows "Err"....****. Reading the trouble codes section of manual, simple break in a wire could cause. Hopefully I simply snagged wire replacing the grey tank cover. Next morning, dang I was that close to be done....remove the grey tank cover. Its an hour rolling around on creeper. Nope no breaks in wire. Could be internal and not visible started testing. Tested wires leading to grey in valve compartment by shorting then read monitor-reads "Sht" (as it should). So wiring good to that point. Opened up the solder connection at sender, shorted across. Monitor shows "Sht" so my wiring is good up to sender. Contacted Garnet. Suggestion was that the trimmed tab that programs the sender cut isn't clean or has shorted and reestablishing electrical path, which uncut would read as a fresh water, can't have 2 senders same function and-as fresh water shows "Err" sounds likely. Problem is can't get to top of sender. So removal required, check/recut the tab. Garnet stated that would work however removal would probably cause sender to no longer work or long term be unreliable, so will send a new one. As system was working until I reinstalled the tank cover I'm pretty sure something I did. If nothing else so I don't repeat used a heat gun and slowly removed the sender without bending. Needs to come off anyway. Tabs looked good but I recut. No visible damage to sender board. Fresh no longer shows error but grey still shows open-sender failed. So awaiting replacement. About the best out of this episode was discovering and using the ability of the system to self test and aid in identifying an issue, but more impressed with Garnets willingness to help diagnose problem, and once identified supplying replacement sender. WhooWhoo! New sender arrived. Reinstalled, testing at monitor every step of the way. Its working. Due to limited access sender ended up a tad low. Had some issues with the plastic tank cover unrelated to system. https://photos.smugmug.com/AnEv942/Monitor/i-xWMN86n/0/4bfea9b7/M/watert27-M.jpg width=600 height=450 But system is working, even with the grey tank fiasco worth the effort. System is amazing- SeeLevel and refaced LPG monitor. No more second guessing once levels cross 2/3 if 1/3 left or time to find a dump station. Pretty stoked. No more looking down the toilet. Or when fresh drops to 1/3, pulling the water tank box lid to see if 10 gallons left or it is almost empty.
AnEv942 10/23/17 10:53am Truck Campers
RE: Error when trying to update preferences

Assessing preferences from trailerlife portal https://i.imgur.com/EAi5Rkz.png
AnEv942 10/20/17 11:21am Forum Technical Support
RE: Revenge of the captcha

Still having issue with captcha thru RV.net portal. More than a few sentences or couple of pictures cannot save, preview or post without going thru the captcha. Correctly 'proving' going thru captcha & submitting opens up the forums main page. (without saving previewing or posting) endless loop. This is dependent of amount of text, deleting all but a few sentences or single picture it will preview, save post, but after a given amount-cant get past that limit. This new posts. But also applies to older posts (ie sticky thread) that's of any size, cannot edit and resave preview or post....
AnEv942 10/20/17 10:27am Forum Technical Support
RE: No Water Out Of My Fresh Water Low Point Drain Valve

Low point drain per title (plumbing waterline drains) or the drain line on tank as described? Is it small plastic 1/2 turn ball valve? Line clear tube? if you have access pinching, or milking toward valve can sometimes start flow. Ours if hasn't been opened in a while will clog with scum (white). I wouldn't push it back into tank. Ours runs from front to back of camper though so a lot of non moving water. With the slightest bit of flow I'll quickly tap valve outlet, stopping water flow, let it flow, tap it again, forcing just a bit of water back up or pulsing water in tube. Doing this quite a few times will generally loosen up the scum, and eventually clear. I can only assume valve and tube, but if like ours and most Ive seen I wouldn't apply much pressure/vacuum likely just suck tube closed if blocked at tank. https://i.imgur.com/2RvRF4j.jpg If its the little ball valve though removing it to expose end of tube, ours is barbed, something like a turkey baster to pull and push water would be the most force I'd apply.
AnEv942 10/18/17 12:23pm Truck Campers
RE: Easier access to cabover bed

Just updating: Fixed https://photos.smugmug.com/AnEv942/Interior/i-K5FxGNZ/0/2562db7b/M/bedladr28-M.jpg width=600 height=450 What I should have done after receiving the latches, but almost worked. Removed step leg, remounted inboard. Relocate the latch catches to match and the stop block with an additional 1/8" between it and catches. Once leg down, latch hoops stay in catches, cant come out, but a bit easier to insert. Gained almost an inch for latch handles and more room for hands. Slide can be ±2" from full extension and latches work.
AnEv942 10/15/17 01:56pm Truck Campers
RE: New Torklift Stow N' Go

Ya- the all-thread bolts are kinda silly-trying to figure it out it appears at one time T/L did supply shouldered. Unknown why they changed and added an extra inch to boot. I ended swapping, to get length in SST at local hardware was 3" lg with 2 1/8" shoulder, better for going thru step bars and the nylon spacers. Also cut them to 2 11/16" to minimize stick out. Ran from inside out with nylock. https://photos.smugmug.com/AnEv942/Glow-Step/i-LJkCpBf/0/915988fb/M/stairmnt8-M.jpg Noted your pins are between treads- my instruction said to mount at step 3, which doesnt work flush mounting. Mounted between #3&4. One of the many small items that lead me to believe Torklift really didnt make allowances for flush mounted... As to the flex, mine the entire bracket flexed, lower half of the side plates sets 1/4" away from bumper. I added 2 corner pieces to support. Wouldn't do anything for the 1/4" pins against the rubber stops but did overall stiffen a lot. https://photos.smugmug.com/AnEv942/Glow-Step/i-SgGsnfk/0/5894fd5e/M/stairmnt37-M.jpg width=600 height=450 My concern was, cutting top corners, flex would cause to crack. Skate board wheel to replace the rubber?
AnEv942 10/08/17 09:24pm Truck Campers
RE: New Torklift Stow N' Go

Good deal. Our orignial scissor steps the tread clipped to a U channel so virtually no gap. When we first set up our Glow steps I wasnt't thrilled with the gap. Its a big gap. https://photos.smugmug.com/AnEv942/Glow-Step/i-rwjNcKN/1/524edc1a/M/tlbs18-M.jpg height=450 width=600 I briefly set up with the top tread rotated 180°, redrilling for the vertical bars. https://photos.smugmug.com/AnEv942/Glow-Step/i-m6CPb7t/1/e751859d/M/tlbs19-M.jpg height=450 width=600 That sucked tread within 1/4" to bumper. Maynot work with the StowNGo thouhg without redrilling pivot. Adding the flat or angle probably as effective-less rework. https://photos.smugmug.com/AnEv942/Glow-Step/i-QqkSgcB/1/5389208f/M/bsmod4-M.jpg height=450 width=600 Subequently we ended swapping an 8" tread onto our basement step, the 6" tread just way to close to camper stepping out for me. Kept over steppin. As it hangs out over stair tread allowed rotating it back to stock and gap unnoticed. One of the nice things about the way Glow steps are assembled- like an erector set and can reconfigure easily.
AnEv942 10/08/17 10:25am Truck Campers
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