I'm looking at the perfuse foaming at the swivel ell
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e178/AnEv942/suds.jpg height=336 width=448
The ring around top of bag at plate, I assumed just the liquid that was sprayed on. IF thats also bubbling then yes bag is toast though from here doesnt look like a leak.
Id hazard guess that its the swivel ell itself. Possible, but I'm unsure why thread would start leaking on older install, but ? And that's leaking a bit. The line I could see, or the 2 piece ell. (tightening from above, likely your only turning the swivel section)
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e178/AnEv942/swivell.jpg height=225 width=184
At any-rate Id have one in hand before I went to effort to remove/replace. As the nut on ell is thinner than the plate that it goes thru, even IF I could access I doubt I have a thin enough offset open end to even try (with bag mounted to bracket).
As ell is installed before mounting bag, I at least would need to remove from truck.
Though noted your opinion of the Torklift locks they do also sell extended length ones for locking the tiedown arms into receivers
edit: noted different part numbers: similar to fastgun locks-
s9700 the lock barrel is at right angle instead of straight
Welding tabs on arms/receivers you could use standard padlocks.
Torklifts cautionary statement has to do with hitch tiedowns are installed on. Most truck use xxxx part# with factory hitch, and a different part # with Torklift hitch.
Meaning buying tiedowns to fit your stock setup-if down the road you decide to upgrade hitch you would need to also replace rear tiedowns.
Yes-even if there was a bad connection in the plug heating up, unlikey with the SmartPlug- the SmartPlug would disconnect itself-then reconnect once cooled down, providing you pick up one with the thermostat.
Many vendors I looked at are selling the xxxNT (no thermo) models. Not sure though, even mfgs site, unless I just missed, doesn't really mention it (thermo) in anything current?
IF I had a detachable shore cord, the SmartPlug with thermo seems might be worth its price. Otherwise converting to hardwired eliminating extra physical connection altogether would be my first thought. Mostly I don't see advantage in T/C for a detachable cord, still got to store cord-that and if it grew legs/got left at home proprietary plug something you wont match local HW?
if Im reading correctly OPs campers umbilical cord isn't hard wired, plugs into camper. That's where meltdown occurred, in the incoming receptacle. I can only assume bad physical connection of plug/receptacle or possibly loose faulty wiring at receptacle or plug. Either way, draw of AirCond just caused excessive heat at a bad connection until meltdown.
My thought is though I don't know that campers breaker would come into play on the AC source side? between shore pedestal and camper.
edit 1handyhubby pictures
Scarry part is this is over/in battery compartment?...
Well hope you can make do and enjoy rest of weekend
No. Some seepage up to a point but I would consider a cup is excessive. Especially new.
Could try running clear water down drain working the valve, but dont jam it home. Either valve gasket not sealing or debris in sealing area keeping it from fully seating.
I wonder if those little air lines are too restrictive to allow enough airflow to respond quick enough to road bumps. I can't do anything about the size of the fittings on the bags but I can use bigger lines to the tank at least.
My opinion is not really. Mines 1/4", what I had at the time, ping tanks are within 12". Just because there really isn't that much volume moving. Most others that have done this mod, whose ideas I followed, did increase tube size.
I'm curious enough to want to increase tube size but don't expect any noticeable difference so not worth the effort at this point. If I hadn't noted the decreased 'hit' & overall improvement I likely would have pursued. It could be that on ours-the probable restriction is acting as damper.
If doing from scratch I would go to 3/8" between bags and ping tanks, just because, but I'm not sure if retapping bag worthwhile, or if the distance thru a reducing ell (which was my plan) really would restrict to a noticeable point. Its one of those things only comparative testing would really verify-.
not sure if this would address your needs- there are a few threads adding ping tanks.
I can do fab work, I'm a hot rod guy who has built cars & trucks from the ground up, and I'm a truck & heavy equipment guy for a living. I'm not afraid of steel and a welder. But this really doesn't even appear to need any custom work at all. The bags I have clamp on top of the leafs and the top brackets bolt to the outside of the frame rails. There's plenty of room to use two per side.
I just like the idea of spreading the stress out over more area and more hardware.
I almost can't believe nobody's already done it.
Interesting, very. That's what I was thinking, if both bags were fore and aft of each other, same side verses inboard/outboard they would work closer in unison. But just looking at mine, 01' F250, lower mount is also clamped to spring pack. Just seems clamping that much of the pack may yield some um, 'unknown' or undesirable results? Also moving the vertical line of travel, 2 either side of center, other than tad shorter, would effect response?
The upper bracket makes sense and where most issues occur, though Id lean toward one long bracket. Then again, its restricting that much frame-would it focus forces applied to frame?
Dual bags seems would be ideal, I cant see any faults, a lot of pluses. Mounts though is where I see it easy to create a problem, some thought required, makes my head bubble...it is an interesting idea. Wouldn't have occurred to me simply from cost.
I added small pings tanks. They, other than improving ride, did take out that impact under hard fast hits, so in a way did remove some of the shock seen by brackets.
Though I would & do because I don't like movement underfoot, primarily because our campers manual states the jacks should be extended before deploying the slide. As all its weight is transferred to outside of counter-levered 10' wall that has 8' hole in it kinda makes sense to me, so do. Other than that just a personal comfort choice.
After leveling truck, deploy jacks then the slide before turning off engine. If more than snugging the jacks I release tie-downs. If need to use jacks to lift camper I remove the tie-downs- I find its just to easy to bump a bit more.
Your assumptions are correct, large valve is the black tank, small valve is the grey. What dumps into each tank can vary with different campers, and good to know. Since your up and open, close black tank valve, grey open, run water at sink(s), shower.
The other 2 lines you mentioned I don't see. If they are small, 1/2-1"
likely hot/cold water line low point drains.
AS to emptying tanks, again your assumption correct as far as connecting sewer hose. Normally though if you have sewer hook ups, the black is left closed, dumped when needed, otherwise water runs out/solids can stay behind. The grey though, dumping directly on ground as mentioned most places is not allowed, certainly not at any campground. Don't. It can be left open when connected. Ive never used any supports, we rarely leave or have hose connected so cant recommend anything.
Just using holding tanks, most dump the black then dump grey.
Length of hose 15' 20', I carry 2. Many campground site-sewer connections are simple pipes stubbed up-you'll need an elbow/funnel to use.
I use Valterra 2 piece with ell attached-only used the 'funnel' couple of times. Even at dump stations, Stick ell in sewer drain-rock to keep from coming out.
Never pulled RV toilet, can't help with floor...Don't fall thru?
unrelated-has anyone mentioned the max photo width?
-640 recommended 800 max
Ive been looking on line-figure be a simple search. (Actually more on point using 'transition reducer'?) I'm amazed at how many different types there are. More so how many folks whose primary business is threshold, stair nosing etc. Closest to our has a rubber bulb on flat end door
Leaning toward making one since I would have to add to most or modify, generally max is 1" transition. Only issue is making it non slip-but it could be a bit longer since you end up standing/stepping on it. Could trim about half that frame lip off which would help-
Who would have thunk...
Scabbed ours together to use until I come up with something. Curious why our door is set so high.
Changed out the campers carpet, I ran it long until I replaced the cracked threshold/transition piece. However I looked most of the morning and I cant find anything.
Camper came with the 1" height plastic threshold, but the door frames lip is 2" from floor. I tripped over 2nd week we had camper and put the 1x4 block under it to make flush.
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e178/AnEv942/IMG_3130s.jpg height=480 width=640
This is the threshold. I would like to replace with a single one piece that is 2" tall but doesn't appear that's likely, I'd make another raiser for a shorter one but I simply cannot locate one similar.
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e178/AnEv942/IMG_3131s.jpg height=480 width=640
The issue, doors inside lip extends up a bit more than 1/2" from frame
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e178/AnEv942/IMG_3129s.jpg height=480 width=640
Which is 2" from inside floor (carpet 1/4", would get cut back)
Anyone have any ideas?
Our SuperTruss circa 2006.
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e178/AnEv942/ourelkhorn/truck/pc3122b2.jpg height=357 width=640
Lower tube is 1/4" wall 2x2" tube, isn't solid.
Upper is 1/4" wall 2½x2½ tube with a 10" length of 2" solid inserted approx. 4½", 5½" stick-out. There is a solid steel contact pad between 2 tubes at end that transfers load, not just thru clamping force of side plates and bolts.
Always wanted to weld ours but likely tweak it.
My assumption is mass produced truss and hitches, welding verses bolting a manufacturing decision. Cant imagine the QC to get any welded truss to fit any hitch.
That said OPs truss pretty nice, likely stronger than ours. Looks like 2½" also used on lower tube. Does it also use solid insert? Gotta be a hand full as far as weight.
... It also makes me want to try to keep the front a few degrees higher then the rear. ...
As per most any manufactures recommendation I've seen/read regarding raising or lowering the camper- keep the front 3 to 4" higher while its moving.
When off loaded I'll keep mine a bit higher in front. I'm sure all are a bit different but ours gets really light on the rear jacks. Being out on the nose exaggerates the 'feeling' of camper moving. Been sleeping in ours since '01, I 'know' its virtually impossible for our camper to tip but still find it disconcerting.
Some individuals need to pull off their shoes and check for stones-gotta be a reason that what they believe to be 'known' facts can only be shared in a way that is dismissive & condescending...jeesh.
The Original Bodiak closed several few years ago, had a lot more products.
Restarted under new owners, which currently appears to have closed again.
As things stand I wouldn't order even if you could untill the dust settles.