I can do fab work, I'm a hot rod guy who has built cars & trucks from the ground up, and I'm a truck & heavy equipment guy for a living. I'm not afraid of steel and a welder. But this really doesn't even appear to need any custom work at all. The bags I have clamp on top of the leafs and the top brackets bolt to the outside of the frame rails. There's plenty of room to use two per side.
I just like the idea of spreading the stress out over more area and more hardware.
I almost can't believe nobody's already done it.
Interesting, very. That's what I was thinking, if both bags were fore and aft of each other, same side verses inboard/outboard they would work closer in unison. But just looking at mine, 01' F250, lower mount is also clamped to spring pack. Just seems clamping that much of the pack may yield some um, 'unknown' or undesirable results? Also moving the vertical line of travel, 2 either side of center, other than tad shorter, would effect response?
The upper bracket makes sense and where most issues occur, though Id lean toward one long bracket. Then again, its restricting that much frame-would it focus forces applied to frame?
Dual bags seems would be ideal, I cant see any faults, a lot of pluses. Mounts though is where I see it easy to create a problem, some thought required, makes my head bubble...it is an interesting idea. Wouldn't have occurred to me simply from cost.
I added small pings tanks. They, other than improving ride, did take out that impact under hard fast hits, so in a way did remove some of the shock seen by brackets.
Though I would & do because I don't like movement underfoot, primarily because our campers manual states the jacks should be extended before deploying the slide. As all its weight is transferred to outside of counter-levered 10' wall that has 8' hole in it kinda makes sense to me, so do. Other than that just a personal comfort choice.
After leveling truck, deploy jacks then the slide before turning off engine. If more than snugging the jacks I release tie-downs. If need to use jacks to lift camper I remove the tie-downs- I find its just to easy to bump a bit more.
Your assumptions are correct, large valve is the black tank, small valve is the grey. What dumps into each tank can vary with different campers, and good to know. Since your up and open, close black tank valve, grey open, run water at sink(s), shower.
The other 2 lines you mentioned I don't see. If they are small, 1/2-1"
likely hot/cold water line low point drains.
AS to emptying tanks, again your assumption correct as far as connecting sewer hose. Normally though if you have sewer hook ups, the black is left closed, dumped when needed, otherwise water runs out/solids can stay behind. The grey though, dumping directly on ground as mentioned most places is not allowed, certainly not at any campground. Don't. It can be left open when connected. Ive never used any supports, we rarely leave or have hose connected so cant recommend anything.
Just using holding tanks, most dump the black then dump grey.
Length of hose 15' 20', I carry 2. Many campground site-sewer connections are simple pipes stubbed up-you'll need an elbow/funnel to use.
I use Valterra 2 piece with ell attached-only used the 'funnel' couple of times. Even at dump stations, Stick ell in sewer drain-rock to keep from coming out.
Never pulled RV toilet, can't help with floor...Don't fall thru?
unrelated-has anyone mentioned the max photo width?
-640 recommended 800 max
Ive been looking on line-figure be a simple search. (Actually more on point using 'transition reducer'?) Im amazed at how many differnt types there are. More so how many folks whose primary busines is threshold, stair nosing etc. Closet to our has a rubber bulb on flat end door
Leaning toward making one since I would have to add to most or modify, generally max is 1" transition. Only issue is making it non slip-but it could be a bit longer since you end up standing/steppping on it. Could trim about half that frame lip off which would help-
Who would have thunk...
Scabbed ours together to use until I come up with something. Curious why our door is set so high.
Changed out the campers carpet, I ran it long until I replaced the cracked threshold/transition piece. However I looked most of the morning and I cant find anything.
Camper came with the 1" height plastic threshold, but the door frames lip is 2" from floor. I tripped over 2nd week we had camper and put the 1x4 block under it to make flush.
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e178/AnEv942/IMG_3130s.jpg height=480 width=640
This is the threshold. I would like to replace with a single one piece that is 2" tall but doesn't appear that's likely, I'd make another raiser for a shorter one but I simply cannot locate one similar.
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e178/AnEv942/IMG_3131s.jpg height=480 width=640
The issue, doors inside lip extends up a bit more than 1/2" from frame
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e178/AnEv942/IMG_3129s.jpg height=480 width=640
Which is 2" from inside floor (carpet 1/4", would get cut back)
Anyone have any ideas?
Our SuperTruss circa 2006.
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e178/AnEv942/ourelkhorn/truck/pc3122b2.jpg height=357 width=640
Lower tube is 1/4" wall 2x2" tube, isn't solid.
Upper is 1/4" wall 2½x2½ tube with a 10" length of 2" solid inserted approx. 4½", 5½" stick-out. There is a solid steel contact pad between 2 tubes at end that transfers load, not just thru clamping force of side plates and bolts.
Always wanted to weld ours but likely tweak it.
My assumption is mass produced truss and hitches, welding verses bolting a manufacturing decision. Cant imagine the QC to get any welded truss to fit any hitch.
That said OPs truss pretty nice, likely stronger than ours. Looks like 2½" also used on lower tube. Does it also use solid insert? Gotta be a hand full as far as weight.
... It also makes me want to try to keep the front a few degrees higher then the rear. ...
As per most any manufactures recommendation I've seen/read regarding raising or lowering the camper- keep the front 3 to 4" higher while its moving.
When off loaded I'll keep mine a bit higher in front. I'm sure all are a bit different but ours gets really light on the rear jacks. Being out on the nose exaggerates the 'feeling' of camper moving. Been sleeping in ours since '01, I 'know' its virtually impossible for our camper to tip but still find it disconcerting.
Some individuals need to pull off their shoes and check for stones-gotta be a reason that what they believe to be 'known' facts can only be shared in a way that is dismissive & condescending...jeesh.
The Original Bodiak closed several few years ago, had a lot more products.
Restarted under new owners, which currently appears to have closed again.
As things stand I wouldn't order even if you could untill the dust settles.
Not an Af but a few on Lances? though should be similar
Sleepys with link to faucet
Kayteg1 thread (in trailer section) along with Eric & Lisas install on lance. Lot o pics
then anutami install on Wolf that didn't go quite as well...
Many of the parts on camper are not camper manufacturer brand specific-
but by the installed product brand..
Many are 'universal', like refer grates, water heater doors etc.
If your refer is Dometic or Norcold search for that. Or by different descriptions of the item your looking for.
ie search 'rv refrigerator vent cover'? or
'RV Refrigerator Side Vent Cover'
Short of more work than you wanted, obviously taking apart to rebuild would be option one. However if it were mine and continuing with direction youve gone what I might do to spread loads.
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e178/AnEv942/26kp8.jpg height=709 width=576
-Remove added metal framing bracket.
-Pump the delaminated plywood with glue, clamp let dry
-Cut as large a piece of single plywood that will fit inside thru hole to make a single backup 'L' to inside of hole. As far back along the bottom and up as high as you can up front corner. Notched to set on new bottom ply. Profusely glue and screw new 'L' piece to existing backside of hole.
-Remove the campers plug, remove the 2 forward carrage bolts.
-Replace the carrage bolts with bolts going up thru bottom-nuts inside. (welded to bar or plate would be good)
-Cut as large as will fit another piece of plywood to fit against front wall. Notching for wrench clearance to access nuts/upward travle of bolts. With as much contact with bottom ply you added as possible and contact with as much of front wall. Glue and screw to front wall.
- bore hole and rewire plug.
- The aluminum angle would be good tying corners, Could use 2x2
just some thoughts...
Mines mounted on firewall since '09, direct from battery (thru fuse)-output goes thru thermal breaker to trucks camper plug. Trigger wire can be any minimal hot lead that's hot with ignition, I used lead from inside cab to add manual disable switch.
The constant or continuous duty solenoids can be had in 3 or 4 terminals - same, just grounds either thru case or wired ground.
If the campers power is tapping the trucks trailer charge line, 'that' truck should already have relay thats only hot when truck running.
If not a simple constant duty solenoid works fine-triggered by truck ignition.
edit: pic of relay
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e178/AnEv942/chargerealy.jpg height=462 width=640
Huh-found a pic of wiring
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e178/AnEv942/ledwire.jpg height=480 width=640
Leads direct to boards -bizarre, more so the way its wired. Short of finding boards with dimmer leds, a mini rocker switch to control both cards, Id be snipping a wire in the interim. Even then I'm sure one of the boards be too bright for us.
For experimenting I found couple on amazon-
cheap enough- I have 2 older fixtures with bulb cards w/ failed bulbs (not smd) going to try.
EDIT: ordered & recieved. Way too bright for interior use-nor are they regualted-. removed link
Some soldering involved-just to change a bulb...
Hokey Smoke -that's better than 400 lumens per bulb/card! dang, sure don't want to be looking at them when turned on.
The description says hard-wired...but the led cards really don't plug in? Thats crazy...