I also was directed to page 5 of that thread-
To share a post of a thread though, click on the Link button of particular post within a thread, copy the link displayed and paste that (as a link) it will direct to a individual post of a thread...
As far as the foam baffles, I doubt finding foam baffle hats less than 2" deep will be easy or really needed. As long as the back inside diameter of baffle is close to back of speaker diameter (magnet/housing), squashing the 2"- 2 1/2" deep foam baffle should be easy to fit depth. Material is very soft, maybe 1/4" thick, also compressible. You can wad these things up into a ball. I'd be more concerned with speaker flange compressing uniformly where the foam hat laps outside.
Probably if perimeter could be sealed. Ive used these in our older CJ, has a sheet metal dash so speaker basically were in free space- did improve sound. Also protected speakers from water running behind dash.
Don't know how much room behind in wall, they are squash-able though...
Use to pick these up off the shelf radioshak stereo shops etc. For $7 shipping, amazon etc save alot. 'speaker foam baffle'
You'd think RV manufacture would use a sealed plastic box to install speakers in, not relying on speakers.
Could be theres is a battery cutout switch somewhere that would explain a lot of description. Yes camper should run on the battery unplugged from truck or shore.
The jacks however somethings askew:h. Jacks normally tied directly to battery, may or may not be controlled by a battery cut off. But the front? Im not even sure how you would wire to only see truck...tapped to charg line before it enters converter?
Ours sounded like a wood pecker going off- quite loud even outside. Loud enough I was self conscious of it in the wee hours.
That and constant running with the slightest trickle of water.
Loud, constant and annoying. If someone knocked I didn't hear em.
I reworked a couple of times trying to isolate better, short of buying a pump, but it was installing the accumulator that really made it quiet. That and when I plumbed used flex lines. The accumulator made a world of difference in how long and often the pump went off, likely absorbing some noise but I assume it was the flex lines, on inlet and outlet side of pump that really stopped the noise transmission thru the hard Pex lines.
As our pump is 16 years old likely should replace now or at least carry spare-better pump retro fitted imagine should be whisper quiet. We only turn on pump when water used so wouldn't mind not hearing it all.
My point is though assume better pump would be a lot quieter, I dont think just swapping pump would have had near the results of changing to flex lines, at least in our camper. If your after quiet...
Check the pump, make sure its isolated, not touching anything. Some have used foam pipe wrap on the lines and had some success to absorb noise but Id change to flex lines-add accumulator then look at pump.
Im surprised that more Lance owners dont refer to manual,
One of the few mfgs that give details of camper.
pages 84 & 90 of pdf file, (not document page numbers)
If you dont have download, lot of info
Yes, being fused, 1 light or wire shorting somewhere would take down all. Or bad connection at plug if lucky, which if fuse good 1st obvious (simple) thing to check if truck side good.
Obviously First is to find out why front wasn't engaging and fix the 4x. Auto hubs can take a bit more wheel travel to engage as already mentioned. However they are prone to simply not working as they age, lack of service, being vacuum activated many sources to also cause fail. Even manual hubs can fail to lock, especially under load or worse not fully lock.
Having never had auto hubs I don't know if applies, I assume you have auto/lock hubs though that can also be manually engaged. Being already in a pickle you can manually cause hubs to fully lock while stationary. (or when you positively need/want to know)
With transfer case in 2x or neutral (or whatever on a non manual transfer case) where front drive-line can spin freely, turn hubs to lock- turn /jiggle drive-line from drivers side, you can hear/feel the hubs lock, assuming they are free and not gummed up. Though I prefer do one wheel at a time, lock one wheel hub, reach behind wheel, turn/jiggle axle u-joint yoke until hub locks, then do the other side. Hopefully won't need to do, but an exercise to play with in driveway.
Sometimes 'light' brake pedal or ebrake pressure can help, where rear end is open or limited slip, slows down wheel that has least resistance which will recieve all the torque.
why do you need to match a RV water heater as it is never seen anyhow
As far as matching- its matching the color of new heater door to campers exterior.
Which if replacing an Atwood water heater (larger), cut out size is different and new door required to retro fit.
As to OPs question I haven't swapped. But my brief research left me with thought is it wouldn't do what I was looking for, instant hot water.
It would on initial fireup supply hot water sooner-not having to wait for tank to heat but time between opening faucet and hot water delivered same, might actually be a longer wait. And also concluded might see slight increase in water use.
Endless continuous hot water for the 2 of just not a need, which seems to be biggest plus. That and end point use-say in residence or large coach, but doesn't apply to small camper IMO.
As little as our heater lights, if just using momentarily throughout day, not sure on gas consumption. Depends on hot water usage and would vary. I just didn't see justification-
However I did note 3amp 12v power use. Constant stand by draw of control boards .2 amps could be minimized by tying to water pump switch. But the 3 amp in use draw every time water turned on gave me pause.
Physically installing not sure what would be involved to retro fit/plumb-its a bear accessing back of ours. Which I also noted the flow control valve-if its as appears, on back of heater, and if need arises to adjust-just not practical.
Overall, given the price and complexity of unit itself compared to tank heater, added 12v use, questionable gas consumption savings nixed the whole idea. The remote pretty cool though. Just my observations-
..Some thermostats, mechanical, lever just slid to bottom of scale doesn't turn it off. Lever requires a bit of force to continue and actually be in off position. The one that came with our camper felt like was going to break something before it snapped to off position.
Odd.. blowing up pic it looks like a 'fixed' mount Winegard.
http://imgur.com/ts2pD2P.jpg height=480 width=640
This post anutami removed his..
Possibly if he sees thread might offer insight to take apart.
Why not leave new hose in fill line?
As I needed to use a piece of hose with cut off end anyway-after a few times pulling it in and out I realized it could just live there. Filed off about 1/8" from female hose end so cap would screw back on.
Ours just chokes, no kinks-fair slope but unless filling really slow just easier for water to come back out. No issues with the additional hose, also vents around it. I only pull out enough to attach hose- inch or 2
Only caution is with the added hose, too easy to turn water volume up since it will take it, but also easy to pressurize the tank. If I can hear the air I turn down.
People probably complained when wood beds went to steel. Still, LOL at the extra ugly.....
Ya whats up with that? still erks me.
I really don't have an opinion, if it lasts and saves weight only time will tell, it is a departure. Not a brand verses brand but aluminum verses steel. Though as thin as steels gotten on trucks maybe the Al will be less prone to 'toolbox' placement damage.
To the weight I read that some of the savings went to the frame and other, possibly the longer trucks just used (or needed) more of it? Just a WAG. I haven't really looked at the numbers.
We are in the process of seriously thinking about buying a new Ford , not sure about 1st year on the Al construction, that and sticker shock...
I use photobucket, there are other reasons to have an account with a hosting service other than posting to RV.net. Ive used 1492's app or imgur direct on occasion trying to explain something without uploading a picture to PB. But I at least cant see using it (the app) exclusively.
As far as picture resizing I don't resize uploaded pictures to PB and most are not large in files size. Posting to RV.net (or most other forums) using the editor it's as simple as entering 640 in the width. Well I guess not that simple since many don't- one of my pet peeves also-
My opinion is and its only that, the extra payload is to carry the extra ugly. Looks like the 'tuner' crowd designed a retro 80's. Has to be the ugliest Ford Ive ever seen.
But wonder if that is the reason for the added extra & sharp creases in the body panels- stiffening the aluminum? The u-shaped 'eyebrows' just icing on the cake.
I am really curious though how the aluminum box holds up to weight and flex long term. Seems I read insurance rates are also going to reflect the Aluminum body. All for a few hunderd pounds
I'm looking at the perfuse foaming at the swivel ell
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e178/AnEv942/suds.jpg height=336 width=448
The ring around top of bag at plate, I assumed just the liquid that was sprayed on. IF thats also bubbling then yes bag is toast though from here doesnt look like a leak.
Id hazard guess that its the swivel ell itself. Possible, but I'm unsure why thread would start leaking on older install, but ? And that's leaking a bit. The line I could see, or the 2 piece ell. (tightening from above, likely your only turning the swivel section)
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e178/AnEv942/swivell.jpg height=225 width=184
At any-rate Id have one in hand before I went to effort to remove/replace. As the nut on ell is thinner than the plate that it goes thru, even IF I could access I doubt I have a thin enough offset open end to even try (with bag mounted to bracket).
As ell is installed before mounting bag, I at least would need to remove from truck.
Though noted your opinion of the Torklift locks they do also sell extended length ones for locking the tiedown arms into receivers
edit: noted different part numbers: similar to fastgun locks-
s9700 the lock barrel is at right angle instead of straight
Welding tabs on arms/receivers you could use standard padlocks.
Torklifts cautionary statement has to do with hitch tiedowns are installed on. Most truck use xxxx part# with factory hitch, and a different part # with Torklift hitch.
Meaning buying tiedowns to fit your stock setup-if down the road you decide to upgrade hitch you would need to also replace rear tiedowns.
Yes-even if there was a bad connection in the plug heating up, unlikey with the SmartPlug- the SmartPlug would disconnect itself-then reconnect once cooled down, providing you pick up one with the thermostat.
Many vendors I looked at are selling the xxxNT (no thermo) models. Not sure though, even mfgs site, unless I just missed, doesn't really mention it (thermo) in anything current?
IF I had a detachable shore cord, the SmartPlug with thermo seems might be worth its price. Otherwise converting to hardwired eliminating extra physical connection altogether would be my first thought. Mostly I don't see advantage in T/C for a detachable cord, still got to store cord-that and if it grew legs/got left at home proprietary plug something you wont match local HW?