Ill go out on a limb here at the risk of sounding a like a jerk. But folks like to help but an accurate description is needed. (A picture of the cabinet door open showing the valve would be more help)
I also have never seen a dump valve that turned..your description of 'turning' is confusing, though in earlier post you also said said 'push or pull' so Im thinking its just description. Not holding your feet to the fire over terminology but just trying to 'see' the actual issue.
Assuming you have standard dump valve the handle should be pulled out, allowing tank to fully drain. If the tank IS empty and the water backs up into shower then you may indeed have some blockage. Some showers the drain screen is removable, where you could fish down the drain a bit.
when he turned the handle outside the camper the water came out so that's where im stumped water is going into the grey tank but some up through the shower drain. unless when you pull the handle the line blocker thingy ( I don't know what it called LOL) doesn't close or open all the way when you push it in or pull out...
Water coming up shower my first thought is our gray tank is full.
Only done it once. Id start with something a bit less intrusive like a plunger in shower, generally last in line before holding tank (towel over kitchen drains). Ideally hose connect and at dump station.
Does it gradually drain?
Ya I was never big on combos, but for the price our Insignia is nice, got rid of an extra box and wiring. It does have HDMI aux input, so if when could add an external player if it quits.
Other thing is sound-depends on how or where its mounted. Our previous LCD had real speakers, the new one has teeny facsimiles, and downward firing. When facing dinnet the cabinet and curtains are behind it, sounds ok but to watch in bed it needs to be floating on an articulating arm. In free space the sound just disappears.
Did something similar on our Winegard antenna plate. The back side and all the coax/wiring was exposed on overhead cab. Every time opened the door got to look at it.
I think on the "pre-wire" its so the other loose end terminates inside an electrical box. A just in case kinda thing I think, which I did. Tapped the breaker for AC to add a receptacle for electric heater. Though the breaker was dealer installed for our original AC. Maybe because variables in ACs, however I never understood why on the pre-wire it isnt terminated in a junction box at the hole instead of running a short jumper and the extra connection. Or just as likely purely cost savings-not much built like it once was (least that most could afford)
?Only if its not re-certified before they refill. Last tank I got from the dispenser rack was pretty old-so I assume they have the ability. I didn't see anything that said only refillable/certified tanks when we swapped out our of date tank. I would have rather kept my old one but 11:00 on a very cold winter night last year- I needed gas, was a mute point.
While I agree power consumption needs to be minimized if camping off-grid, not sure I agree with statement "the only thing to consider".
Mostly because topic related to low DC loads?
But to the OPs original question, my recommendation would also be an 110v TV with external inline converter. Whether run thru inverter or direct, mostly due to the selection/price etc, just a lot more options. IF you pick a small inverter for the TV look at its self use idle and efficiency numbers. A heat or load actuated fan would be nice-ours ran full bore.
I know many run the 120v TVs direct to 12v by eliminating the small inline converter (brick). Though Ive have never read where anyone had an issue doing it I was never able to cut off due to the varying voltage in camper. Just my luck. I thought I would on our new TV but wooused out.
As the inverter is needed to drive soundbar (15v) and the satellite box (120V) when its set up all I would save is the small overhead of TV. Though every lil bit helps- but my simplistic math shows using the inverter for TV and one other item (soundbar 15v, sat box 120v, or OTA ant direct 12v) costs me about the amps used to drive 1/2 of an 1141 incandescent light bulb. Switching one light to LED would offset.
----for my own entertainment, this a bit long winded
Because I was curious and didnt know and haven't seen any actual numbers I looked around to see how I could guesstimate actual usage with inverter.
Most new TVs (DC) draw less than 50 watts.
Our 21" with dvd player draws 36 watts (3 amps)output.
Our Soundbar rated at 3.67 amp output. Both use switching power supply converters verses 'wart' transformer which are also more efficient.
Our 400 watt inverter is rated at 0.3 DC amps (3.75 watts) idle, 90% efficiency (loss of inverting).
Using more common 85% efficiency and 12.0 volts converting watts to amps & back.
(consumption: Power (inverter idle watts) + load (watts divided by efficiency of inverter) = usage
(amps to watts: Amps x Volts = Watts)
(watts to amps: Watts ÷ Volts = Amps)
3.6 watts (inverter power) + 42.36 watts (TV load 36 watts ÷ 0.85) = 45.95 watts
So thats 9.95 watts (0.83 amps) over actual demand using inverter.
The soundbar when used is higher at 50.5 watts (3.37DC amp) but its also 15v.
3.6 watts (inverter power) + 59.47 watts (SB load 50.5 watts ÷ 0.85) = 63.07 watts
3.6 watts (inverter power) + 101.82 watts (TV&SB load 36&50.5 watts ÷ 0.85) = 105.45 watts or 8.8 amps total draw. Thats 18.87w (1.6amps)over to use inverter to watch TV with soundbar. My actual numbers are a little better using 90% efficiency and nominal 12.5v plus when sound bar used TVs speakers are turned off.
Bottom line though when power is issue TV just doesnt get turned on-
To check ran battery to inverter lead thru amp meter, though I saw 1.3 amps verse the rated 0.3amp of inverter I assume led on remote switch/ standby draw of TV, SB & Sat box. However turning on tv and soundbar, Sat. box in standby, highest was 2.76 amps feeding the inverter? Nothing near the calc'd 8.8 amps. I know since replacing all the old equipment use dropped at least a 2/3 just judging by battery state but the max calc'd numbers surprised me, I expected more, the amp meter more so.
To the point pretty sure Im going to add an amp & volt meter panel to our lil inverter to see its performance.
Didnt test with the sat box on, though it was in standby, as its 14 watt AC direct, bout 0.12 amps AC. (In standby its rated at 11w).
Kinda off topic; probably should have put in separate thread, but this peeked my curiosity and I found interesting . Mostly all I did was confirm not much point in our case to amputate the converter -and actual power use thru inverter lower than I thought. Though the DC to AC and back again does seem illogical, not near 'cost' of what I assumed. Our old AC/DC TV when you turned it on the inverter fan bogged down- The new TVs power use is amazing-if they keep it up pretty soon they will be charging your batteries.
Ive never heard of anyone saying NOT to store camper on jacks, other than there are a handful of mfgs that recommend against it or using camper off truck due to the way camper is built.
Myself I store ours on stands (though most of weight still on jacks). I built stands capable of supporting camper when stored-they have come in handy when working on it.
Just a lot more stable in high winds, going in & out as mentioned, I hate seeing it or feeling bob around. Also as extra support for the water tank (basically sets on floor hung from 1x2s) that is usually stored full. I just see it as taking some of the stress of hanging from frame and jack mounts. That and when the next earthquake hits maybe it wont walk 12" across the pad :0
When off loaded camping I generally dont do anything other than lower as far as it will go. Questionable ground I do use some small stands to stabilize & for more contact. Loss of support on one of the front jacks whether frame failure, leg buckle, rain washing out the sand were parked on or simply ground squirrel borrowing and shes going over, period. Regardless if I acknowledge possibility happening or not.
If your camper frame & jacks and the ground it sets on are trust worthy there is no reason not to store on the jacks. (other than mfg exceptions). And no reason to be uncomfortable.
Yes everything should play well together.
As to the sealed/flooded-if you have removable caps (or 2 that cover 3 cells each) you have flooded. If the caps are non removable, select sealed. If unsure look up the battery at store site to get correct type. Dont guess on this one-
The temp sensor on your controller is local to where its located-just ensure its not in direct path of AC or heat sun, probably in the designated cabinet will be fine. Some controllers have a remote sensor to measure ambient of actual battery location, yes it can make difference-optimally, but short of mounting in another outside location which I wouldn't -good to go. Was always going to get one as ours has allowance for remote temp sensor but never did-it works.
My opinion is if batteries are wired true parralel so should the controller be. + to one battery, - to the other. No reason not to, only cost some extra wire.
Well they do make rear sheet metal, fiberglass roll pans to replace rear bumpers. Weight savings usually cumulative thing. Your '88s bumper probably weighs more than mine, though if I were to pursue be as much from appearance than anything else. Some do look good.
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e178/AnEv942/rollpan.jpg height=231 width=448
Certainly wouldnt offset the super hitch addition, but you could unbolt bumper & related brackets-weigh it out. At least give you idea if its worth the effort as far as weight savings. Me I want the rear protection so even if I did a roll pan Id be putting on nerd, I mean nerf bars...
There's a shield above the top hinge....
....the shield thing: I recall that aluminum doors on RVs and homes (many years ago) had a neat little shield that cups the top of door frame. Hmmmm? This could work for our propane door providing an appropriate width is available....
I've got to check out for a while....will be back at this Forum tomorrow. Thanks for all the ideas.
Searched drip rail, eyebrow drip rail. Aluminum, raw or white. Though due to width (stickout)might be issue with your door as it swings up so factory retainer would need modifying or some other means to hold open.
Theres also vinyl stick on J channel..
Would stop/divert water from hinge, cant say what would stop water from the bottom cut frame. IF the door and frame were square or equal length between corners, think I might rotate -+90°.
Also assuming its door, not migrating from elsewhere.
Looked briefly, this thread http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/25168579.cfm
Makes it sounds as cable has full sheath and is attached to the valve(s)? Sounds like you verified. Short of Lance responding, and not second guessing might look at that if you can see/access. It also sounds as though bottom removal doable, possibly an access panel on the 1181. I assume nothing behind that can be easily disconnect. But it does appear access to valves required.
Mine Id be circumventing need to remove the bottom, IF valve access could be had with panel removed. In that case, with everything else loose verifying only the sheaths are holding, possibly deep hole saw to cut around the hex on old panel. Redrill the new panel so sheaths can pass thru, use slotted washers to recapture, since your backing up panel anyway. But removing bottom or whatever is needed might in the long run be easier, then its do you replace the valve while your there?
I would add to the OP- DO NOT try to run Your camper thru the Sunsaver6 load terminals.
Skipro-sorry-didnt mean to start fire fight here-I was only caught by the comment about the jacks, unaware you were running you camper thru the load terminals. Majority of folks dont, at least I thought so. My conclusion when I initially set up was to not use the load output. I can say mine has been working for just starting its 8th year. Yours is working. I dont think a right or wrong here. (as long as ratings are not exceeded).
However as to warranty, I can find no warranty info as to whether or not the RV running thru load output or not has any impact, either way. I know large inverters and such can be an issue running thru the load output. Hence running thru a relay, & still a maintain control with the LVD, or running direct to battery(s).
Running parallel controllers of different load capacity (or higher than rated), recommendation is to run direct to battery- when load exceeds rating. I dont think that would be recommended if it would void warranty. Yes you do give up the LVD going direct (without controller activated relay), but wasnt a feature I was looking at, again I only went with 30amp for possible Input upgrades. diagram.
Bottom line, none
That would be the folder where sig pictures are stored..I saw it moment ago. Blue ford with a trailer but now I dont. Sig pics seem to be hit & miss as of late when/if they show,
edit: posted, your sig pic shows, mine doesnt..
edit again: edit above, when posted now mine shows your doesnt.
Imagine doesnt make it any easier when your trying to set up sig picture and its not showing due to other issue...
Huh, we have the same controller, love it, mostly for reason you described. Nice to know its more capable than I thought as far as the load. Though originally I went with the 30amp thinking we were going to add a panel.
Interesting though, other than yours will utilize the LVD by running camper thru the load, sounds as though you 'read' yours much the same way I do. Not its purpose but it does give some pretty accurate readings.
Thanks skipro3: I was unaware anyone used the load output to control whole camper. You are the first Ive I heard say they did.
Our controller is rated at 30 amp, but I only use our 'load' output to power one added circuit thats not critical that could potentially drain batteries, IE charging ports for my RC stuff.
Im pretty happy with our morningstar but I don't know thats its robust enough to power entire camper thru it(gen starter, jack- fan motors, etc) not to mention the wiring to it. At least not risking.
While the LVD nice it seemed to me, in what little research I did, to utilize and to ensure its main function of charging batteries wasn't jeopardized (me overloading) was to use relay. Unwilling to go there. I also see occasion that I might be willing to risk dumping battery to watch the last 5 minuets of a movie, raising jacks to escape the zombies irregardless of the controllers smarter decision.
As to the OP- possibly when you upgrade depending on size of panel, you may be able to utilize what you have, running a second controller in parallel. Though adding another controller to handle all, maybe just as cost effective. But down the road. Good luck
One other thing I wanted to point out about that Sun Saver MPPT. It has a MAX output load rating of 15amps. My camper has motor driven jacks. They draw almost 30amps when lifting the camper. Because of that, this controller would not work in most campers with motorized jacks.
Ummm? You wouldnt be driving them (jacks, or any other load) directly from solar output.