And the thing that bothered me most was the generator main line.
I cant see it, is the screw actually into the wire, assembled like that? Or had the wire, originaly laying on top, fallen down behind in to the now present gap.
A race to help:)
I know why it looked familiar- its an Amerigo...the name you used threw me.
Heres a link from the TCU sticky http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/26362225.cfm, an Amerigo rebuild page which links to http://www.tcreviver.com/
Searching this forum using Amerigo might yield some results (re-title thread would help)
edit even has a brochure-looks almost the same camper...
What you last posted is a link to the library (though not click-able)
which in the editor the 'Link' button to create a link
Use the 'Image' button to paste an actual picture link (which would end in .jpg .
this address pasted into/using the image editor window would produce
the other image is a very small thumbnail?
Dont know anything about the camper-nice old camper, looks familur-heavy and long (side door). Not knowing weight of camper or truck cant say as to match, could mention towing behind it though because of size, more than likley would require an extended hitch setup...
Good enough-ours I picked thru local Autozone, a Durasport by Duraliner, its about 3/8" and 13+ years old. Nice as it truck specific, cut to fit bed entire bed floor, has nubs on bottom for air/drainage, it lives in there full time. A/Z now carries the deezee simuluar product.
Everthing thats electrical, radio, tv, monitor etc has the potential to draw small amounts of power even when off. Plus the truck has its own parasitic drains. Im assuming this camper doesnt have a battery dissconnect between camper & camper battery?
Yes if the camper is tied to the truck as described you need to install some type of isolater-not only when parked but camping you'll be pulling off the truck. The truck should charge camper while running but be isolated when not running. Simplest and least expensive is a constant duty solenoid-any rv or automotive parts house. "Constant duty" solenoid. You need to address (or unplug camper), repeated draining of your starting batteries not a good thing
The light wiring issue I believe is seperate (not causing drain) but a lot of possilbilites. One being there is a short in camper sig/brake wire-which CW should fix. Could be as simple as a stray wire strand in one of the umbilical plugs, corroded light socket. Verify 1st its not the truck wiring to the plug.
No I think referring to Stable Liftcamper jack system
Several folks here have it-a simple stable lift in the search window would also bring a few past posts
edit: actually if your retitled your post to 'stable lift jacks' might get a better response from folks who have it.
welcome to the forum
Most of the folks I know that run Optimas in there rig (4-wheeler) is because of replacement ease & availability-can be found just about anywhere, folks just know the name. That said usually when someone loses a battery more than likely its an Optima (course partly due to so many are running optimas). Generally just stop holding charge or just quit-deader 'n door nail without prior signs. I know for a few years a lot of folks were having problems with them leaking at the posts.
Likely just luck, my aux jeep battery is an optima. It has got to be pushing 10 years old. Never had an issue with it, and its lived an abused life. Ill probably change it this summer, I may look other brands because of the short life Ive recently been seeing though more than likely it'll be an optima. All I want in the jeep is something that works if I happen to be laying on my side, optima still a viable option in it, camper I think there are better options.
But back to the Battery Compartment Safety Issues - I don't think box would be Riva (or Lance) approved if a wet cell battery is installed, dealer cuts the top open for ease of wiring defeating box purpose and its setting next to a possible source of ignition? Pretty much uses up any safety margins-
which is what this thread brought to awareness.
Folks just need to inspect/address as needed.
Well, what do you think of all the Rube Goldberg ideas and fixes? Sleepy
While AGMs would lessen the possibility of explosion or simply breathing the out gassing for extended time-It too, IMO, also a 'band-aid' for a poor design. Only Goldberg'n I see here is from Lance-?
I dont subscribe to the idea you can't fix something that obviously is wrong-dont care how many IBEengineer stamps are on it.
As to the boxes, I do not understand the venting. With out the one that ran to rear, vents on front of camper-no outlet, where is the air that I would think being pushed in, going? Curious, is there something about the open vent/grill design that prevents water entering.
All mute-at least Mikes post & skippro3 info gives a heads up to other owners. I at least found informative, had no idea folks were burying batteries inside camper, I just find bizarre. Even if they do not respond directly, hopefully Lance made aware of how dealers may defeat what they must feel is an adequate 'system'. If not maybe more folks should send simular letters to Lance.
Saved me a road trip. Other thread about bumpers had me at the lance site. Really like the 992 would be my dream replacement with new truck but not practical, however wanted to see the 950s, I haven't looked at new campers in years, had me going, then I opened this thread- reality check.
yea, my lance has the same two vents up front and one vent back near the ladder. However, my lance battery box only has plumbing to the two vents up front; one for each box. There is no connection to the vent out back. And looking at the battery boxes, there is no knock-out or any other way to connect a vent to the box with ducting anyway for the return line to the back of the camper.
If anyone has a photo of what that looks like; the actual connection between the battery box and the vent at the rear of the camper, I'd greatly appreciate the effort.
Might it be easier to add vents out the sides of box? Think Id want to insure passive air flow. We dumped a battery and the solar thought it needed charging-amount of out gasing was unreal.
If the pipe was black iron I would have no problem. But the pipe is soft drawn copper tubing, hard drawn would have been much better. The walls are thin and copper becomes brittle with age and vibration. You cannot tighten the clamp too tight or you will collapse the walls. I just don't like the idea.
I can see your concern as far as clamping on the soft copper-however NOT attached to it is where explosions can occur, ungrounded any errant ground will create a spark. Our plumbing has a section of black pipe that loops in & out of camper, the main external ground block is attached to it. But I also have 3 soft line ground connections. I assume to insure no isolation of the different runs of copper.
As to the battery box a word I never use comes to mind. Flabbergasted
Even if there was zero electrical components, having wet cell open to inside of camper dumbfounds me. So many reason looking at the pictures, really bad design. Having to look at the big red tags though while cutting the holes in box is almost humorous. geesh
Thread that you hope dealers would read. Some bizarre stuff on our camper the way it was built but it was the dealer installed options that ALL proved problematic.
Hmm-nice. I dunno that slide out porch, attaching flip over to either side would be nice when towing. Looks like the flip over uses standard brackets, be easier to use than the Fox bumper which bolts on (if you wanted to swap sides).
Commercial a lil dramatic though. Did say 'uses a strut assembly for easy install to any Lance? retrofit?
But on towing-did I hear correctly "with any extension 48" or greater".
I dont remember where is the sewer hose storage?
My pins are bent-they haven't bent any more, have been like this for years. Just the slight rotation of extension in the receiver bends them. Doesn't take much to bend the 1/4"? pins.
When I originally installed the T/Ls the rear extension and receivers used considerably larger pins, not 1/2" but standard hitch bar pins. The fronts came with the 1/4"-never had a problem. The replacement rear arms & mounts (when I swapped out factory hitch) came with the smaller pins, 1st trip out they bent. But as (not paying attention) the pins get swapped around so they are all now bent.
Unless you orient them differently when installing, causing them to bend in opposite directions shouldn't be a problem IMO and more than likly new ones will bend. If I ever get the urge to lay on my back and want to drill sideways match drillin I would redrill for larger pins, but I dont think an issue. All they really do is hold the arms in reciever, no real in/out loads, rotational is contained by tubes and the pins just yield to how much.
yes If I note tiedowns too tight on one side I readjust all, Ive never repositioned camper though. Our mat maybe 3/8"-
Oh thats a K not Q :)
I think it was 03 when Fleetwood stopped making slide in truck campers. So zero factory support. Has no value in my opinion, especially camper that old & looking used. There are many brand 'orphaned' campers. Only thing brand specific would be the structure itself.
In '01 fleetwood offered 4 TC lines, the Angler, Elkhorn LE, Elkhorn and Caribou. Angler was entry level-wood framed, metal sided, the Elkhorn LE was also wood framed/metal sided but had the amenities of the Elkhorn. Elkhorn & Caribou were very similar in construction with more & higher end amenities offered on the Caribou. Both al framed, filon sided but the Caribou also had aluminum roof trusses and an ABS front nose cap where the Elkhorn used wood in roof/filon nose.
As to the length of nose verses cab length, there isn't any interaction between the 2-other than it does stick way out there an extended cab doesn't change how camper nose hangs. No reason to limit yourself to an east/west bed.
I have no clue as to resale value on older campers-if everything works, structure sound, its in your budget and you like it? Inside pics of the one you linked looks like new inside-so Id focus looking for signs of water damage-outside delam, jack mounts etc if you look at it. Actually with any used unit-easy to get swayed by what, if taken care of, doesn't age (or matter).
Just a side note-that particular Elkhorn unit, bed length, non slide , 1000#+ lighter unit, (an 8R?) is the one I was going to buy but 'we' ended up with our 9u. No regrets. I'm thinking I would be more like in the 6thou range. If I were to replace ours Id be all over that one just because I'm familiar with the product. but it is 13 years old.
Hmm I spent way too much on a new camper many years ago-and way too much since- ain't going there, consciously force myself to not think about accumulated costs/time...
Though when I re-roofed the camper I did keep track of costs because I was on a budget and just wanted to know verses shop. If I were rebuilding like you are Id probably keep track just to know what I got for what I spent in comparison-say having it done.
But add ons, mods etc-things that just make it ours, I dunno.
If I want to do something & can afford it or have the time to squander on a project I just do it- no justification-has no meaning-(because it isn't justifiable), nothing would get done-. For those of us who just fiddle with stuff, just because, trying to keep track might be self defeating. At least for me-its the doing & end result. Seems all the finished projects etc in turn are rewarding in the task, enjoyed when we go out but tallied up wouldn't be.
So regardless yes-the 'price' has been worth it.
As far as must have that we added, would also be the most single 'extravagant' expense which would be solar.
The amazon link that Clikrf8 provided, when I looked, also showed some Camco folding metal ones mkirsch, actually following links around lots of options. Doesn't show though how/if secured for traveling? Nor the wood ones, the non slip backing is really enough to keep in place?
As we virtually have no counter space besides setting stuff on the stove top or a very small flip up table-would be nice. Nicer if it was attached somehow? something to ponder.
Curious though stickbowjoe as you mentioned "..and am looking with a critical eye at how much stuff I carry...", & end up replacing with the wood one, because it will serve another purpose?
I had to grin cause I don't know how many times I started out doing one thing-end up doing something else because it allowed the option, defeating the 1st go-round. Usually in my eye more practical or functional, but 'ats a slippery slope Joe :B