i guess there is a photo, and it's invisible to me.
http://i.imgur.com/2XqxPiLl.jpg is the link-I can see this one.
Its an imgur.com hosted picture-I often have them not showing up or it just shows text?
Nice ladder Wardster. Something along those lines are what I'm thinking also. Just needs to be removable-secure when mounted.
The Stromberg Carlson alum. ladder and some of the others are simple, bracket options for mounting, fairly inexpensive. Light and easily 'customized'. Etrailer has a video. Id rather 'bolt on' but likely build.
One, not too dissimilar from exterior ladders in construction don't care for the appearance, mostly though I want at least 4" wide rungs. I guess treads would be better description.
Leaning toward 1x's for rails to keep weight down. As were going from top of tank box, to capture bottom simple. Drill holes thru ply, grommets thru carpet, dowels or pins in rail ends to keep in place. Upper though its making something simple. Keep redirecting my self away from nice wood cleat. Wonder if the S/C cleats could be had separately... thinking out loud.
Following youtube videos just a bazillion ideas for building ladders.
I'll pass on as far as I've gotten, which isnt far.
Ours is a bit of a hike, mid step off to side, as much awkward as hard.
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e178/AnEv942/ourelkhorn/carpetr19.jpg height=480 width=640
Having exposed some wood paneling when removing carpet that was on wall over window I started seeing a ladder again..
Made some sketches but haven't pursued. I'd like it to go to floor but the water tank box/step would push it out too far. So it'll be from top of box up, that'll give it a slighter slope and 2 rungs.
Adding some form of hand hold.
Second is want/need it easily removable (mostly due to slide & tank access, the small drawer, oh and the converter-details). Nice if it would swing over to side but looking at just hanging into brackets that I can lift ladder off of. I 'think' it'll layout where we'll have good width steps and still use the top of tanks for first/last step.
Hurdle that's holding till warmer weather though is attachment. Just haven't given it much follow up.
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e178/AnEv942/ourelkhorn/ladder.jpg height=480 width=640
Not far, but a direction if/when I get motivated.
Ya I had to look..
but it ended with a PM between members so not sure how it worked out (or no confirmation of availability from T/L)
Yes. Broke panel.
But generally unless broke, need would be very rare. Roof replacement, or refitting another panel, changing layout? Cant see a reason.
Unless new replacement identical, unlikely, mounts probably need relocation anyway.
So I wouldn't make allowance they could be reused, mount like its going to be there forever...
Kind of amazing how many have similar 'dumb' attributes. Specifically the no interior light switch by rear door.
On ours, also no interior light switch by door. I understand that 3 way switches would have been needed and another 10' of wire to have interior light controlled from either location at dinette or door. Added cost so might have cut mfg slack. But stumbling around trying to locate dinette light switch in the dark, that thought never occurred to me, it was always 'this is dumb'.
But dumber was the fact that the bathroom light was by back door, behind the bathroom door, hinge side. If you went into bath without turning on light first, you had to completely exit, close the door to reach the switch. Or call out to who ever was setting at dinnet who could easily reach it. That went beyond dumb to 'this is stupid'.
Right there with no water pump switch in bath.
Actually several ways it 'could' be repaired. wnjj is correct in that what OP has is a Flair-It fitting. Flair-It catalog PDF file
I assume its 1/2" pex tube- replacement would be
Flair-It Plug Coupling part #16863
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e178/AnEv942/16863p.jpg height=372 width=542
So way to do this #3
Cut tube flush at existing nut, (need clean tube anyway)
Slide new nut onto tube, insert coupling, thread nut onto coupling.
randgsupply-$2.32 #02863 though ship would kill unless you lived near.
Amazon $5.12 free ship
If replacing might use valve #16880 with a cap #16860
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e178/AnEv942/lowdrain.jpg height=480 width=640
Ours has no valves before end of low point drains. End caps are the 'valves', loosen or completely unscrew. Ours are crimp band sharkbites (home depot) but if broken I'd replace with Flair-It fittings. Doesn't require a $60 tool for crimping band. Not sure I'd use sharkbite gasketed compression fitting on end of line?
Flair-It are a compression fitting but grip into both ID & OD of PEX tube. Valves or simple male or female adapter with cap or plug or. Appears that's what OP has. Either case Id cut clean above existing cap to replace. I don't see reason for following line inside.
No, but probably ok. Navigating the site odd-
operating, it appears, under 4 different business names.
Did find a street address under the privacy link-
They do have store front on Amazon also if concerned with ordering from site. I wouldn't hesitate to order thru RecPro if I wanted one of their products.
Amazon shows 98% positive of almost 2000 ratings.
Double dome light at Amz
Your link was to their lighting section though you didn't mention what product you were looking at. Lights themselves seem equiv. to what is offered elsewhere. Lumens output similar. Like that the led bulbs are not part of fixture, (some are not replaceable). Don't like, on the double dome ceiling fixture, just an on/off switch, both sides on or off instead of one side, off or both sides.
Because of the description, extended height with cradle to accept 4x4, sounds like a slide out or trailer support? Ive not seen any with larger bases though. These are steel. couple of Amz links just for reference.
Barker slideout stand
husky slideout supports.
While the Camco stands are functional, bit on the small side.
I had picked up a set but ended up using 40+ years Reese set, a lot more robust, taller, larger base-still screw top.
Got pictures of previous set?
I cant help with specific mounting location an Artic Fox but might pass on thoughts to consider for height.
I recently mounted cameras on both truck and camper. Truck is above license plate @3' from ground. Camper is 9'+ unmounted.
With both adjusted to see bumpers, on truck I can see across the street or better rearward, camper I can see about 12-15' (unmounted, should improve once on truck). But its the relative width closest to vehicle (bottom of screen), that changes the most.
From camper, field of vision at bottom screen or closest to camper is about 6' width. Truck, the portion of bumper shown (bottom of screen) is only about 12" width. Mostly because of the fish-eye lens but closer object is to camera the more it fills up screen. The lower the camera greater the distance rearward but also the greater the difference in what you see in screen between top and bottom.
Truck is hard to judge distance because as view further back the distance is more compressed, closer you get to something it fills up screen. Car is about 4 1/2' away end of drive is 40', width from 12" to 100'. Camper, though you cant see as far rearward, the distance isn't skewed and field of vision/width doesn't decrease. I could back up to brick wall and not hit it. Truck I lose perspective-great for hitching but in general needs to be higher.
All depends on what you want to see. Ideally placement would be with live camera to verify what you'll see. Not sure mounted under bumper field of vision would include width wanted?
Everything Ive ever read about AGMs is they are NOT the best choice for regularly deep discharging- discharge should be more like down to 60%.
Holding charge on battery and discharge percentage in volts, regardless of type, is pretty much the same .
GELs charge at a lot less rate than Flooded or AGM batteries so a GEL setting shouldn't be used for AGM or flooded wet cell.
Not knowing what "sealed" is on your charger, though instruction/manual may show a charge rate chart which would help identify, flooded would be my choice unless 'sealed' closer (higher bulk & less float than gel)
'Depends' is a shrug and dunno-though in fairness no pat answer.
another good articlehttps://www.westmarine.com/
Also just curious, I wouldn't even think about mounting my 1200# ATV winch to camper, also assume mounting on truck- but unless your going over 12000#, DC winch is pretty cheap.
On board gen is pretty expensive, less than 30 amp rating it would be at full bore keeping up (with a larger winch).
But I don't really know much about A/C winches as far as costs
more curious about the 'great savings' and the thoughts along AC gen verses DC?
Conversion for the R/T bit more than 700. Best Ive seen is ~$1300.
But if camper is indeed prewired-and fairly recent modle, should be pretty much a bolt on.
If the Bodiak is up to the task, since you already have, drop hitch seems practical verses replacing hitch. We have a Hidden Hitch, comes out between the fog lights so also use a drop hitch for our scooter rack.
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e178/AnEv942/hhitchs.jpg height=480 width=640
10" drop, 10" from center of rack rail to face of bumper, 14" from ground to bottom of rack.
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e178/AnEv942/pc13.jpg height=410 width=402
My question is how far the proposed combination might protrude.
Appears ~20" from face of bumper to rail c/l +Bodiak receiver?
Other than getting the bike down still need to watch clearance under.
Meaning if you go drop Id get the rack first verify height. Replacing (or adding) hitch like Buzzcut shows would get away from the drop hitch, still keep Bodiak.
Like the adjust-ability of the MotoTote at half the weight-interesting