Yes they do 'just' go bad, and yes as this has been ongoing-trying to charge with a bad cell, getting hot it can get ugly.
I had one in the truck just dump-less than a year old, and one in the camper though it was 6+. I would not try to resurrect the bad battery- at all, even a little, especially at this point of degradation. Hopefully its the older one as far as replacing.
Oh no- the emperor has new clothes...
Pretty sure though if you do end up with neighbors you can get a retro relighter kit for it. It just reads pilot flame, if it goes out tries to relight. Its a nice function. Mostly because, having it disabled for a few months because it was constantly trying to relight (dirty sensor), I dont realize its blown out until water is cold.
Looking for something else I stumbled on this unit, Modesto CA.
http://www.reachoo.com/ads/235835168- I really dont know about the site its listed on.
Don't know anything about it, but by description sounds to be in worth a look condition. Didn't note if the truck came with it, couple of hours from home, likely not or Id be driving over there.
Ya, possibly as bjbear pointed out-and you also had some concerns about regulator.
Think one of the trouble shoot guides- talks about shutting downstream loads off, all breakers etc-to see if you can get gen breaker on yet no downstream loads to verify the transfer switch ok. I dont recall specifically, its in the manual.
But not sure how you could load gen though non electrically?
hmmm seems theres was some discussions in the past about the regualtors...There may be something in the manual as far as testing-Ive not.
Oh prev post..TS, was referring to the transfer switch and now defunct? mfg.
Amazing sometimes the tangled web we weave, was just curious on the timeline. Wow, scratching my head, after taking your coin and 2 months-and response was take it to a generator place? err that hurts
Solar, just need to verify so you know whether or not master cut off also kills solar-again I wouldnt think so but easy enough to check
The referred to inverter is actually your converter, make sense now. Yep pretty standard..does not have an off/on switch, no real reason to. (earlier was referring to the solar panle controller). The distribution point (breaker/fuse box) should have a breaker for the converter BUT if working around it unplug camper.
So your either plugged in, or generator running, converter is also charger. Good to go.
..brings me to your other post concerning your generator. But that should remain in that thread so were not cross talking.
Nice thing about the HF meter-it doesnt hurt when you blow it up-just get another till you get a good one. Not all that accurate but for basic trouble shooting/ & learning to use, work fine. Have fun
I guess my question is was the work done 2 years ago that the business for the TS is closed, original owner deceased that worked on unit, but whoever did the work should have some input?
I had read into your other current post you had recently acquired camper-my mistake. I doubled checked post dates- as Im am a bit puzzled though, this and other current thread dont quite jive.
The 'brain A6060 control board controls everything- it is quite expensive. To replace more than likly you will need to drop generator. Not that difficult but some work. I assume, though your older pics looks like youve had open and more room than I have, I doubt room enough to actually remove tins for access to board.
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e178/AnEv942/ourelkhorn/IMG_0521.jpg height=480 width=640
Behind the heat sink in the rectangular box next to fan is the board. if you dont have, download manuals
http://www.generator-parts.com/manuals/generac-rv/0D1752.pdf, repair/diagnostic manual, lists the shutdown features and a troubleshoot guide
diagrams and parts list...
The solar, unless its factory installed and someone may know more definitively how its wired (though no telling what PO might have done)
no need to pull battery(s) to check. No idea what your controller has, meter or just lights. Disconnect shore, check battery voltage. Run a fan some lights etc for a while. Solar should go to charge mode. I would check voltage out put of controller, then check at battery-should see same voltage, turn off battery cut-off, voltage should drop to standing battery voltage (not show charge input) if solar is wired thru cut off. As most controllers have an off switch-I dont know why panels would be thru main cut off though.
As to the 3way refer, and the inverter Im not quite clear. It sounds as though the inverter (12v DC to 110 AC) is wired to run the refer AC receptacle? Not common but some folks do. If thats the case the refer would be set to AC. Also, if refer is plugged into receptacle thats powered by inverter means even on shore or generator, the inverter needs to be on, unless theres another actual AC receptacle.
To use on directly on 12v DC the inverter wouldn't be used. If refer is set to DC it would be drawing directly off the battery(s) not thru inverter. Your 3663 will draw a little over 17amps in DC mode. Most trucks wont supply that and still charge batteries, So even driving its slowly drawing down batteries. You have solar input helping-but it takes a lot of diligence to use the DC mode in factory (truck charge) configuration. IE turning OFF refer when stopped-period even a few minutes. Turning off least an hour or so before arriving destination allowing battery(s) to charge etc. That said, assuming you precool the refer before a trip as already mentioned it will stay cold(ish) minimum for several hours.
Because of your curiosity and 'want to know' I recommend buying (or find a Harbor Freight "free" coupon for their $5 one) an inexpensive digital multi meter if you dont have one. Set to 20+ on the DC volt scale it will tell you exactly what you want to know on the 12v circuits. Test light would only tell you power present not if 12.2v and dropping or 13.6 & rising.
Set to 200+ on the ACv scale you can test the receptacles/inverter output-though for most all you want to know if power present and not looking at actual voltage so a AC test light (or portable power tool etc) would be sufficient on the AC stuff.
Inside camper we also have a small waste can that has a lid. Bag inside of it. We often 'hang a bag' but its to dump the waste can bag until we get somewhere to off load it. I use a tree or tallest bush I can find, usually a bit away from where were camped, though have used ladder. Hopefully it smells better than our camper when were in bear country. Nothing else it might serve as an early warning alarm :)
Yes as mentioned you pretty much got it as others have noted.
I assume the auto switch detects shore power and makes it primary, powering all of the appliances, 110V outlets, etc. (Correct) Does this also charge the 12V batteries? (Yes) If so, then I assume I have on board battery charger somewhere? (Yes) Also assume it shuts off or down to a trickle charge when the batteries are full? (Yes-well it should)
I assume when running the generator and NOT on shore power, the auto switch then makes the generator primary powering all of the appliances, 110V outlets, etc. (Correct) Does this also charge the 12V batteries? (Yes) I assume it does the same thing that shore power does, just from a different source, correct? (Generac 00941-1. 3400W)(Correct)
DUAL 12V DC BATTERIES / SOLAR PANEL ON ROOF
I assume I have an onboard charger for the batteries, right? (Yes) Also assume it will shut off or down to a trickle when the batteries are full? (Yes) Will the running truck charge the batteries? (That depends on how your truck is wired-need to verify but should. Also need to verify when truck off its isolated from camper so as not to drain truck battery) Will the solar panel charge them? (Yes) If so, how? (Panel output runs thru solar controller that regulates charge) Does the solar run into the charger? (No)Or through an inverter and then the charger? (No) Or straight into the batteries? (Yes, but as mentioned thru the solar controller)
BATTERY CUT OFF SWITCH
What does this switch do? (Disconnects batteries form camper (both drain and charge) Completely isolate the batteries to prevent draining I assume? (Correct) But, will that also prevent charging them? (Correct) I.E. can I shut off that switch and keep them charged or does that switch prevent any charging? (The later is correct-no charge. However depending how solar is wired (factory?) it may be direct to battery thru its controller and NOT dissconnect with cut-off switch, need to verify)
I have an inverter n one of my cubby’s. What does it power? The fridge is 3 way, (propane, AC & DC) so when on DC is it really consuming AC through the inverter? There is one 110V power outlet in the inverter compartment cubby that it appears the fridge is plugged in to. So, is that outlet the ONLY one that is 110V HOT, when on the batteries / inverter or should all of my 110V outlets in the whole TC be hot? (That cant really help, depends on how its hooked up. Need to verify what is powered by it)
Also, how do the lights in the TC work? I.E. are they 12V or 110V? (12V) If 12V, do they just run off of the batteries, even when on shore power? (Yes) Or through a transformer perhaps? (No-they run off battery,
I know this is a LOT of questions but I like to know how stuff works before going out and depending on it and to be able to fix it etc.
Multi meters your friend and will help identify most questions, especially if field fixing. Biggest one I question is the inverter and its purpose.
This all happened on a Wednesday before my first camping trip....
I had done the same thing for my last camper and I knew better.
Alls well that ends well?
Yes-even self acknowledging what we might be doing at a given moment not the brightest idea we've had all day..and then continue on anyway, most of us have done it. Glad there was no substantial damage to camper. Fessin' up might give someone else reason to pause.
Nothing on the controller that gives rating? Model number?
50 watt panel @ 17v (typical) would be less than 3 amps. (higher volts-less amp).
Ive not seen a controller rated less than 10 amps- but thats a lot of assumption
I would tend to think just the opposite- that the lighter the camper the more need for restraining, though less likely to tolerate I would imagine.
Over the recommended #setting you start to loose the benefit of spring loaded tie downs (which should be called something else, positioners/restrainers?). Would also, in the case of frame flex, side hilling etc quickly go to a 'sumpins gonna break' point. Theres is only so much travel/give in the tiedowns- the recommended setting has to do with how they are designed and still offer some 'stretch'.
I also tend to run mine probably looser than the 300#-maybe 1/4". I just go by feel-if it takes to much effort when snapping over handle I back off the bolt a turn. If ours moved around excessively Id be looking at guides or retainers in the bed to limit movement. But theres been occasion I wished both the truck & camper could accept load binders.
My Host has the ability to move the center step to the ladder side. Perhaps, you could do something similar by adding brackets to the ladder side. That's assuming you have removable steps in the center.
Distance from top rung... though the bottom is pretty far also.