I also lift off and put inside the camper. 'cuse the mess...
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e178/AnEv942/ourelkhorn/usb23.jpg height=480 width=604
However I carry to the front and set on floor against water tank box under refer.
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e178/AnEv942/ourelkhorn/usb52.jpg height=480 width=640
As our slide covers this space when in,
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e178/AnEv942/ourelkhorn/usb53.jpg height=480 width=640
Virtually captured, so really can not go anywhere, otherwise I'd tie down.
Ran into this before, due to the rear bumper wont support weight, rotates down if it doesnt have correct support brackets. I guess since some dont easier to say NO than to look?
Also happened to my brother in law. He bought a tent trailer, towed it over here with his Explorer, 140 miles, bumper was hanging down about 6".
More like a month or better, random but usually doesn't last long. I log on directly to the TC forum and get a 404 error- backtrack to the root and get the same maintenance message. So I know its the site/host actually doing something.
Not your browser, but clearing your cache is a good thing. Sometimes if a page doesn't load, depending on setup, when you revisit page, even though page is up, browser opens cached page.
But as noted, without knowing camper make, just a guess.
This has my vote for being the funniest thread Ive read in a while-some actually relating to OPs question.
Kayteg1, I don't know how excited a dealer might be with a tape on new truck but if you draw a line on any of the pictures you uploaded, on the bed -centered at wheel well opening, easy to see the distance to rear of truck is the same. Both the SRW & DRW long bed trucks and the first picture of the short bed 'platinum'. Granted on the picture of the grey DRW the picture is skewed, the extra depth of outer wheel from the prospective taken, makes it 'appear' closer to rear bumper, but its not.
I'd be really amazed if you 'measure' what you seem to seeing in the pictures as being true and would like to hear- however the pictures you uploaded to back up what your saying actually verify the opposite?
I generally use butyl under any joining pieces, caulk perimeter, bedding in caulk works. The self leveling dicor on vertical surface (wall) may be an issue, its more intended for horizontal surfaces, unless your application will contain it, may flow away from joint or edges. Between what you have seems proflex might be better.
Hmm yes with one 'u-collar' I can see now how it could pivot/scissor closed. Ouch.
Maybe optical illusion, looks like the gap between the 2 tubes isn't uniform? Adding second clamp it wouldnt need to be so tight that tubes couldnt still pivot a bit if needed for insertion. But doesnt look like dealer error-, still think I'd add second clamp.
Im noting the use of the quick links..were those dealer installed? Ive never had luck with them long term-threads gall if high load seen (or me reefing on em).
..edit- with the tubes removed from hitch and the single bolt clamp at opposit end, theres nothing other than friction to keep the ends from closing, unless your finger(s) is between the tubes.
Ours is only 22 1/2" and I have 2 clamping brackets. Even loose couldnt pinch? IF you dont have the brackets and spacers Id contact Torklift.
Thanks Billtex-manual isnt with the pdfs located in the TCU.
So the lever in free position will allow jack to travel on its own. Either down or pushed up by load.
I assume then nothing wrong with the jacks, you switched to free, removed the handle and did as design allows.
I read, either manual jack or elec., switch lever to free and it is. Yous, due to lube, maybe more easily able to 'free' wheel, but not the cause. Actually seems what 'should' happen.
Wow thats scary. You'd think if having to disengage the motor to use manually and free wheeling likely if handle removed there would be some kind of warning.
I briefly looked at the parts pdfs and I'm not seeing how this wouldn't happen. Maybe lack of what most consider adequate lube there is enough friction to load the gears? Unless there was an internal brake I cant see greasing defeating self braking, but maybe.
Meaning whether or not you've lubed I'd hold onto that handle until motor reengaged. Which if camper raised on jacks and you need to swap motor--um? Does the 'lever' acts as manual brake (regardless if motor present)?
I would assume same possibility if jacks fully raised, motor disconnected they might unwind themselves? Wonder what comment HappiJack might offer.
Bottom line is the warning about disengaging the motor, removing crank (and control) when under load. Possibility of runaway shouldn't be dismissed.
I am really curious- When ever the fact that fuel door is blocked by camper tiedown, its described as an issue. How? Even when I had manual turnbuckles, which required using small crescent to remove, it took only a few seconds. I mean the way its portrayed its like a major hassle or inconvenanace. Just really curious.
To OP where is your new hardware used, thru the lock hole of fastgun? Pictures
The door Im not seeing as an issue but a problem that can be solved by a multitude of options. Height of opening is the restriction without seeing, changing door or type easy, changing the header not much more difficult-depending.
But if you changed out the AC & if its enough to get under door it also would increase upward travel space, non issue. Might be combination of things to make it work.
The real issue I see is if I could get into a 44'x64' shop and I could also have my camper inside- It would be real hard to ever get me out...
Seriously though for that kind of shop space and getting the camper stored inside, Dolley/trailer would certainly solve although unless I wanted to move around it would be my last option, from here seems one way or another it could work.
Ya I tend to do that when playing with wiring. But the way the timer function/time cycles are setup via 2 extra wires and again lack of access kinda led me there. Plus I always see one more switch or function if I just...
Had I placed the momentary (or on/off) switch in a more easily accessible place I likely wouldn't have added timer.
Our bath sink and water heater are at opposite ends of camper. Pump runs for 10 seconds until hot reaches bath sink then pump shuts off. So very little actual hot water is being pumped into the cold line. Though I don't know that what little may being detrimental? I haven't noticed hot at bath sink cold side so I assume its pushing back toward heater.
But yes if left on longer than needed it could fill all the cold lines with hot. But this only runs for a few seconds until hot reaches faucet, instead of turning on tap and watching water run down the drain until it becomes hot.
I honestly didn't know if this would work. Simple $35 experiment verified it does. The only thing I would (and will) do different is a better pump plumbed with flex lines.
Pump has only been in a month but 2 short outings, so far its worked well. For what I have in it happy. As far source, I looked at what others had done but it was after installing the one in our home 3 years ago that I kept going back to. Its what I copied. Same principal, simple pump spliced between hot and cold at bath faucet.
The tap tapping during the night, though can be the outer door, on ours its the inner flap, thats part of the vent housing, that is the source of noise. Even outer door latched it sometimes flaps.
wnjj s mod is very clever but it wont work (as easily) on all vents. I was going to copy but the opening and duct on our vent housing considerably smaller than outside vent. So the latches would need to be really long.
The sheathed cable also works.
Mine has gone thru a few different motors, Muffin fans work great, however the one I originally picked up, on high, was only 80cfm. While Margaret could snooze while I made coffee-the camper filled with steam. I never revisited but a higher cfm muffin/cpu fan still be nice also because of low power use.
I subsequently put in a salvaged can motor from a printer. Direct fit, quite, but again just didn't move enough air. Currently Im running the stock motor but added a resister and double throw switch to make it 2 speed similar to factory 2 speed. Sound not bad on low but on high, to actually vent, its the same old too loud motor.
We also use the fantastic to vent,that works really well but on cold mornings also takes all the heat.
IF I ever get a wild hair it would be to gut the vent housing and get rid of the horizontal fan- reduct so it draws horizontally heat/air thats being captured by hood instead of same level as bottom of hood. Thats why it needs such high CFM, just to overcome poor design of the box. But I'm really surprised someone doesn't make a retrofit kit using pancake or muffin fan.
Hard way? Pretty simple for me. Splicing in 2 tees, adding pump between the hot & cold lines at the only place I have access. I do not know how it could be simpler, my convoluted wiring withstanding.. Not sure I'm following,
What you described would be painful if possible in our truck camper. Running another length of pipe, certainly wouldn't be easier. If it were you could run line back to the fresh water tank, that would be the simplest, not even use extra pump just a valve. Back side of water heater is virtually inaccessible. However IF you added a tee just before the water heater in the cold line-wouldn't you be duplicating what I did? cold tee could be anywhere.
But theres a dozen ways this could be and is done.
Added a circulating pump in bathroom to have 'instant' hot water. Part 3
Turn drain replacement/relocation...
turn adding an electronic timer...
Looking at timers, most needed more room than I have, were too elaborate, required plumbing into water lines or simply too expensive just to not hold a button for 10 seconds. (even though a challenge some mornings though mostly the counting part, 1001, 1002... )
And stumbled upon this small electronic timer...
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e178/AnEv942/ourelkhorn/Shower/timer1.jpg height=332 width=446
Its tiny-would be perfect in limited space. Easily wired in between pump and momentary switch. Can be adjusted from seconds to hours. Basic intended use is to turn on pump and then off after a few seconds. I'm really curious to see its other functions.
Ordered-should be here in a few days so decided to pull switch from camper and prewire. Because I used a momentary switch decided to use a relay to make it & timer self latching. Push the momentary switch, it sends power to timer and timer sends power to pump AND to relay. Relay engages and sends unswitched power to timer keeping it powered when momentary released. When timer reaches programmed time cycle it shuts off power to pump & to relay, so no power used when off.
First I need a ground buss, there's nothing in bathroom to ground to.
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e178/AnEv942/ourelkhorn/Shower/recirc18.jpg height=480 width=640
I was using small wire that grounds water pump pilot to ground pump, but inadequate and now adding timer, relay, pilot (for timer setup)and since I'm here a light to see inside cabinet.
This is first iteration.
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e178/AnEv942/ourelkhorn/Shower/recirc20.jpg height=640 width=480
Prewired the switch to receive timer, wired in the relay. A is power to timer input E from momentary and/or relay. D is power out from timer to pump C, the small red branch is trigger relay. Once timer arrives its just staking on appropriate bullet, plug in and install.
The wiring went thru several iterations. Originally I added the red wire B as alternate constant power source to plug timer E into when setting up (so holding momentary for constant power not required and not cycling relay and pump during setup). Also the timer is set up by grounding its 2 set up wires, depending on function. It became apparent that locating and manually manipulating these wire inside cabinet would be difficult at best either to change power source for timer for setup or grounding the setup wires. So rewired.
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e178/AnEv942/ourelkhorn/Shower/recirc28.jpg height=480 width=640
Added momentary DPDT setup switch that grounds timer setup wires as wanted (1 or both wires), red pilot shows output of timer and what its doing. Added to a plate to mount. Here I've finished setting up run time and function of timer and watching its out put- sending power for 10 seconds then shutting off. The LED panel light is powered by main water pump feed so controlled by the on/off toggle with water pump. (At some point I'll add a switch on door so light only on if door is open even though it only draws few milliamp).
Should mention this circuit, both LED pilot lamps, relay hold open & LED panel lamp shows 0.15 amp, the pump is rated at 1 amp. So that's less than 1.15 amp for 10 seconds to have instant hot water!
Then it changed again.
Not going into a lot of detail, if interested its on our home page to see how this morphed or study the timers documentation to see how it works. Though in the long run will be easier to use. Unfortunately lack of access in our truck campers bathroom cabinet and what I did to compensate is what detracted from the simplicity of this timer and its install. That and trying to describe making seem even more convoluted.
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e178/AnEv942/ourelkhorn/Shower/recirc29.jpg height=480 width=640
Basically final iteration I added a DPDT slide switch (above set up momentary) that either grounds pump or grounds setup switch. This takes pump out of loop when setting up timer and/or takes setup switch & wires out of loop when in normal run mode so cant inadvertently change setup. Point being no wire swapping, just flick a switch your either in run or setup. The timer is supposed to keep programming stored so once set up shouldn't have to mess with it unless I want to change pump run time. Then it will be a snap.
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e178/AnEv942/ourelkhorn/Shower/recirc24.jpg height=480 width=640
As I now have an used 'free' hot lead I'm going ahead and set it up the LED panel light. Cut a small block to mount the light, it will hang inside above the door. Glued and screwed the block to inside cabinet door frame reinforcement 1x2.
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e178/AnEv942/ourelkhorn/Shower/recirc30.jpg height=480 width=640
Remounted water pump switch, hung relay. Then removed- couldn't install the ground buss. This is what the camera can see-
Added a block to support top of setup plate.
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e178/AnEv942/ourelkhorn/Shower/recirc31.jpg height=480 width=640
Installed the ground buss, reinstalled the water pump switch plate. Plugged everything in, connected all the ground leads. Installed the setup switch plate, The timer is behind.
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e178/AnEv942/ourelkhorn/Shower/recirc33.jpg height=480 width=640
Turned on the main water pump switch. Wow light is nice. With more than a bit of apprehension pushed the momentary switch. Pump came on for 10 seconds and shut off. Who whooo.
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e178/AnEv942/ourelkhorn/Shower/recirc34.jpg height=480 width=640
Slide the slide switch over to set up mode and re setup timer using red led. Easy. Slide over to run, push the momentary pump comes on for 10 seconds and shuts off.
Though relating this part of the install could have been more like "I added a timer", might have been more clear but the timer itself is just slick and worth mentioning. I'm getting another to add to trucks auxiliary charge circuit. It will be set to delay for 15 minuets power to solenoid trigger wire. After starting truck I don't turn on aux charge or refer relay for while. Ensuring truck batteries stabilize (#1 priority) before sending power to camper. But sometimes I forget and the milks getting warm...This timer will make it automatic without changing existing switching abilities.
These little gizmos are well worth checking out if you have a need for a 12v timer. I just see a lot of possible uses for them.
Pump I used was an Atwood xxxx $15 (I cant recommend it)
(Replacement will be as mentioned earlier with 1/2" outlets and replumbed with flex lines. There are some out there designed specifically for hot water virtually same size about $20-30. )
Timer 3rdbrakeflasher.com was $15
Brass fittings about $15
1 momentary DPDT switch (setup) $5
LED pilot $3
Flair Pex fittings-$10
all the rest was stuff recycled (switches,plates light) or had on hand (wire/connectors shrink) maybe $15
So even going a bit overboard maybe $75ish. Over 2 week on/off again project to save maybe a quart of water a day? but HEY, over 4 days thats a couple of pots of coffee! Sticking my hands in HOT water first thing in the morning-you betcha. Plus light in cabinet, excuse to finally cleanup inside and make usable. Just a bonus.