Not sure, Lance changed links-almost looks like pdfs are a year off clicking 2010 brings up
Both docs though say power receiver (with 4 fuses / jacks with remote) should be in forward most cabinet drivers side (usually in cabover step up box)
Got manual handle?
Huh-does your new plug match receptacle? Unless I just simply haven't noticed, never seen one with different size pins on the round 4 way?
Thats great that Brian from Palomino supplied how it 'should' be wired, identifying functions. As its 19+ old I might verify color functions still wired as it left factory...Doesn't need stating but I will, if you increase power wire size need to also increase the ground.
...I would agree the CO is higher, though not much, much higher if the stove burner is working properly. The efficiency is about the same: no more heat is produced by catalytic combustion than open flame combustion.
Sorry but I am really confused, possibly you know something that I dont or my assumptions are just wrong about my Wave or ony other catalytic heater, unless were are talking different things here. If you were describing my Mr Heater Buddy heater I might concur to a degree. Though it does burn cleaner than our stove, I dont want to be in a small place long with it. But your stating that the efficiency of a catalytic heater is no better than the burner on my stove?
...same amount of propane for a given number of BTUs (heat)?
...same amount of unburned fuel and by-products etc. "fumes" released into air?
My only input (before we get back on topic if weve drifted to far...would be as far as battery savings and the possibility of installing a Wave is the OP (& others) still has furnace. If only using the Wave during the day or awake hours could save some of the battery for night use of furnace. All about options.
But the comments about water, Ive always heard this when Cats are brought into discussion, so some must have this experience. But we've honestly have never encountered ANY condensation issues when using the Wave. Yes, turn the stove or oven on and water is almost immediately running down the windows. But not with the Wave? Except when we've been in & out in the rain and camper, clothes etc just becomes wet, then it doesnt mater what were using for heat, even electric if we have and were making steam. Kinda curious about others cat. usage & water.
...Yes I have been holding back this virus for a couple years,,, & it seems the bug has been getting stronger
So many thins I wanna do!
All in good time...some times :) Im in the middle of building a monitor panel..began with just adding a simple watt meter to get real numbers on inverter use. Decided since I was there....however since its taking so long for parts to arrive-I had time to kill & plan has changed. Im redesigning and haven't even started.
Point being no reason to hurry- things that are important sooner or later will get done-other things will make themselves priority one with or without being on the 'list'. Or to coin phrase' Its a slippery slope-dont need to grease it.
There are many other types of caulks beside silicone. Generally about the worst stuff to use on an RV. Nothing sticks to it (even silicone)
That front edge, though Id would ensure somehow its mechanically fixed, if it doesnt flex could recaulk just to stop water. Relying mostly on caulk as joint will eventually fail, some are better at sealing a flexible joint.
Hardware store for just caulking big ugly joint Ive had good luck with product called Big Stretch-quite tenacious for adhesion, and will stretch. Wont be pretty but its paintable. Backer rod works well(closed cell foam) but not sure looking at that gap if it would work? Maybe filling deepest parts allowing to set and build up sealant?
Well im 180° out, Standard pipe dope, the 'gray' stuff or any oil base will soften plastic, however there are several types of pipe joint compound suitable for plastic threads, they will say so. I use Oatey (great white w/ptfe). Rectoreseal amoung others-read the lables
Useful where tape wont seal or reusing fittings. Over torquing to get a seal (#1 failure on plastic threads is deformation) less likely than where tape is used. My first choice would be Teflon tape but in the camper 'dope', especially plastic to plastic threads or where vibration likely or thermal expansion/contraction like on water heater. All of our threaded water plumbing joints were installed with pipe joint compound, usually white. We've had no failure due to it. Weve had no leaks I assume due to it.
Coarse Ive not stayed an any motels that would give me the expertise of a professional, just my opinion. But that fitting not in line with where it should be causes me to think wouldnt have mattered what it was sealed with...
I use a short mag antenna on the camper. Used an old mirror clamp mount but replaced the mast mount half with a small piece of plate. Clamped to luggage rack. http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e178/AnEv942/P2280002.jpg width=640
Surprisingly works well.
Never got around to hardwiring so cable just runs down side & to front where its attached to trucks antenna mount.
Tons of different mounts here
There are few links to other CB threads in the TCU under electrical..other.
... I did allot of work with this problem about 2 years ago. Depending on the LED, carefully placed caps, tightly twisting the power leads both in and out of the regulator can make a significant difference, or none at all...
Well more like 4 1/2 years ago... This thread, SVCJeff had a considerable of input when I originally switched to leds & discovered interference, though mostly on FM radio. Only the light closest & under the antenna would cause slight TV interference. On the radio was also a proximity thing, closer the light that was on, greater the interference.
My fix and still working was simple caps in the housings. (though from what I could gather shoudnt have worked).
Couple of weeks old but thought worth linking Jeffs previous input on problem.
Wow...well theres your problem.
Well not really,
Assuming components functioned, need to be interconnected? Odd. Obviously I think someone has fudged stuff for some reason. I seriously doubt this factory, wouldnt have mixed mfg parts, but it looks like all A-Tek.
But If the antennas coax doesn't go to plate then head not being amplified nor is signal being sent to plate (assuming your tv hooked to plate)-basically no antenna. Odd. Could be there still is something broke and it was disconnected by previous owner.
Yes the Winegard and Antenna Tek are VERY similar. IF the head fits your arms yes the inside wall plate will power (if it works), it just sends power to head. What I dont know even though they look identical if they indeed are physically interchangeable. Problem is if head doesnt fit, then what. If the wall plate isnt sending power? $25(it could be powering indicator light but not to coax). Also you still need gears, $15.
Getting close to complete Winegard RVW-395 kit-(new head w/wingman, arms, mount, inside amplifier plate, coax) everything but roll of byutl tape and some caulk for
$108 free ship Amazon-
As to wiring the plate there are plates with different functions, dont know if labeled. Some run differnt number of TVs, inputs (over the aire or cable). 3 posts, 1 to ant, center for cable input, one to second tv.
The comment about coax ending at roof inside cabinet- from the anttnea or the tv side? Might have had a short jumper coax to plate.
Im also unclear-when hooked up before, TV was direct to anttena or plate?
No signal if direct wired would make the head board suspect-however it could also be signal non-amplified just too weak or pointed in right direction on intial setup. Though easy to spend your money and recommend replacing it all, I think I would backtrack and see what really isnt working as it wasnt hooked up.
1st Have you tested the output of plate to antenna, attach a short piece of coax to ant post of plate, test center lead for power. If you have power then it would drive a new head.
Coax cable is always suspect. test (disconnected no power)continuity between center and ground, shouldnt be any, test continuity between ends of coax center leads, then ground. (or replace)
If plate and coax good I would set the head back up retest (tv to plate, plate to ant). If nothing try reorient 90° retest.
As you mentioned 'remote' all 4 jacks have the potential to draw considerably more than 30amps, but normally in lifting (or stall). But it sounds though battery voltage was low, which causes excessive amp draw, which causes heat which increases draw...
Im suspecting thats the case, fuse might have let go at same time you decided to do something less, or surge from renergizing.
When plugged or gen running with the 12v fuse blown, jacks were using power thru converter power (hence the slowness). And not good for the converter Ive heard.
Mine will bog something fierce after a few minuets if I dont have power source on, either engine running or plugged in. When camping I dont turn engine off till jacks down/slide out. I always ensure truck starts 1st when packing it up, especially early morning when batts down.
I dont know, someone familiar with your remote jacks might chime in but I thought the controller boxes for the remote/jacks had their own fuses? That you have a single fuse on 12v source feed, no disconnect, is puzzling.
Unless Im misunderstanding, jacks on same feed line as feed to converter/fuse panel?. Does sound though your slide is on direct line. Wonder if P/O thing
Dont know where your at on this eveready1289..3 days ago but
There is a tv hook-up on the counter by the sink, with a little black switch on it. What is the little switch for? A red led comes on when switched, no red led the other.
When switched on sends 12v thru center wire of the coax cable/ant wire to the board inside the head. Yes, the board inside the head is a signal amplifier for over the air signal. Led just an on indicator. If the board inside head bad, signal wont pass thru from ant. whether or not its receiving power-. (However if its not getting power signal and board good will still pass signal just weaker.)
Unless near a strong station, ours at least, needs to be on to get reception. You can test output with a meter, when on, should be 12v at center wire of coax on roof before it enters head. If no power, test at inside plate Or with another pieces of coax) to verify not ant coax. (Also test theres no continuity between coax center and outer shield-short no reception)
Also there is a small hole on the same plate below it, about 1 inch in dia. or so. What is that.
Simple 12v power outlet for 12v TV (or other low amp 12v use). If your using inverter or other 12v outlet fine, its not required to be used for reception.
That isn't a tv amplifier switch is it?
yup, you were correct
Can I get the antenna gear out by myself and run new cable, or would the cable probably be alright? (test)
The worm gear is broke.
Thats a problem, sure looks similar to a Winegard part but wouldnt guess if interchangeable.
I went up and took the top off. Its a SignalCommander, whether that is the make of model? So I know its not the tv that was in the camper, now I know that much.gghj
Though I might switch to more readily available Winegard
http://i.imgur.com/3iO8Dke.jpg height=300 width=400
(FYI not for price but typ.complete kit)
If you have room Id go the Sensor IV-bit more but the added 'wingman' does improve reception over standard III, though can be added later.
However if you can narrow down parts needed they can still be had direct from Antenna Tek http://www.antennatek.com/acces.php
But if you need head board (even Winegard for some reason doesn't offer separate) you'll need complete head and parts cost adding up. They sell new ant kits reasonably
I dont know how yours is wired or if this will help. Ours, not an AF, has in line thermal breakers, they are mounted on the floor under kitchen sink. But our battery box is directly on other side. However they are supposed to be self resetting, they can fail. Not likely & doesnt sound like your issue, just option.
I also have one for slide and a pair for jacks (non remote) as neither go thru converter and wired direct to battery as RoyB described.
Agree it does sound like if most works on gen then I wouldnt think converter (short of fuses), something between it and battery. Unless someone has definitive answer where to look on your AF Id also start tracing from battery as Forrest said. Curious also as I find the jacks able to take down entire 12v to converter puzzling.
Im not sure whats being read into my original question. Obviously Im not in the position of expressing my opinion, what was I thinking. If I could remove comment I would but since everyones decide to quote it its there. Some of these replies though...
Unfortunate because what ever might be gleaned from the the OPs post and responses to it seems secondary and getting buried in stating opinions of mine.
Possibly OP could repost in other thread, delete original post
and leave this thread up solely for putting me in my place.
My pm is also open for those who really want to tell me what they think...
Was a simple question. There are many alternatives to Truck Campers and what or how folks spend their leisure time. I dont know how questioning posting on a Truck Camper forum on one those alternatives is 'insensitive'. Its not like this is the first occasion the opportunity to expound on the wisdom of his new found alternative to T/C'n is sooo much better. I honestly think its very cool that they enjoy the new direction they have taken.. thats what its all about. Doesnt matter to me what the means is to that end.
Question stands? Though likley now it should have been asked in a PM.
I had to double check, yup Im in the Truck Camper section of RV forum. I looked and there is not a Motel/Hotel camping forum nor a Bed & Breakfast forum on RV.NET that this might be better placed.
Though I do appreciate your enthusiasm & enjoyment of your decisions I am curious why you feel compelled to related your non TC experiences here and indeed often the merits of them verses using a Truck Camper?