I had to double check, yup Im in the Truck Camper section of RV forum. I looked and there is not a Motel/Hotel camping forum nor a Bed & Breakfast forum on RV.NET that this might be better placed.
Though I do appreciate your enthusiasm & enjoyment of your decisions I am curious why you feel compelled to related your non TC experiences here and indeed often the merits of them verses using a Truck Camper?
While I agree with you 100% about 'harsh' solvents which was the question, what to use that was safe, and no one was suggesting other wise. I also agree, especially when Im up there, about walking on the roof is dumb. But the occasion does arise at some point sooner or later, you will or someone will need to.
Looked at the first picture shellbackcva59, picking that stuff off couldnt have been a lot of fun. Glad you got it. Oh after glueing the longer you can wait to get back on the roof the better. It takes several days to really cure, so will easily smush and slide. "No big ugly boots" :), Good luck
RZAR66, I had always 'heard' the brackets were interchangeable. Comparing the 1st picture Bedlam upload with mine, I would also have some issues. If fully folded in 180° motor might hit, but more importantly the jack foot WOULD hit my Torklift mounts?.
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e178/AnEv942/awextrc.jpg height=640 width=480
Took a bit of looking, only pic I have that shows jack inboard. Scaled it up a bit but should see head isnt square to camper. Never checked, its more like 130° folded in from out position. IF motor hitting was your only problem I would cut another set of parking notches.
http://i.imgur.com/pRc5Nr6l.jpg height=480 width=640
Looking at Bedlams second picture, Im not understanding the function of the set screws on the pivoting jack side of brackets at all. Ours pivot freely, though my locking tabs are deeper. I cant imagine, I mean it would take quite abit for the jacks to jump up & out of lock slots?
I sure cant imagine having to thread those every time I pivoted the jacks in or out. First I've heard anyone mention that was required on the Rieco mounts...Bedlam do you also thread the set screws locking the jacks?
It also appears the interlocking slots are square cut, ours are tapered? Does that cause problems as far as engaging if not perfectively in line or is there something else that aligns.
Curious design...Ive never looked closely at the HJ brackets either.
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e178/AnEv942/awextr.jpg height=480 width=640
Right side (passenger)
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e178/AnEv942/awextl.jpg height=480 width=640
Left side (driver)
My Atwoods are identical. Top is the pin bolt. no left or right.
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e178/AnEv942/awextrb.jpg height=480 width=640
When mounted to camper bracket, the camper side of the swingout bracket has a folded ear, on the left side it points in, and the right (shown)it points out, that threw me when orignaly installing. Any doubts just ensure when jack side swung out and moved up it locks. When swung forward/in and down it locks.
Don't think your going to stack them if needed. Looks like might be fun to make but for the cost & effort not seeing as very practical. Coarse I guess you could add on top of block?
Be fun in some slick mud, Truck camper hockey!
Does it look anything like this?
Good find! Rather high though, for the under $30 think Id try to fit a newer paddle style 'cept for the thickness, youd have to make a shim if door is really only 1" thick. But with a part number, Decker 41741 or Decker 1042, have better search options
Found same at http://www.vintagetrailersupply.com little less. Last time I had a key made was $20-dunno for a 30 year old lock?
Pretty sure Exit is only if theres an emergency then its thru the roof or side escape hatch. I guess ours is 'Rear' entry, if it were Back or Front door means I have another door, somewhere-haven't found it yet. Dont want any one climbing out the hatch, suppose I should glue on one of those large stickers over our Door.
Not familiar with the Palomino Mini L, possibly 2 doors? As this is on poptop maybe an All Door.
When you were at local RV didnt have replacement locks you could look at? If unlocked (I assume) remove and take with you or to locksmith. Have you tried your baggage door keys, a few use same key? Or add a simple dead bolt. Due to age replacing probably a good thing if you get fit.
Could contact mfg http://palominorv.com/ContactUs/ for recommendation for key or replacement lock that would fit.
More than possible, and was my thought earlier, or moved. Other thought now is possibly shower added. But just guessing from the way drains are laid. Or just some plumbing issues and this was how it was fixed.
Either case what Im seeing is a tee (not directional sweep) with a valve above/before tank. Whether water flows A or B
(A) #2 is to tank and #1 is from shower, or
(B) #2 is from shower and #1 goes to tank,
nothing directs flow thru tee- water dumping down #3 will likely go into both legs. Unless the shower is elevated alot you would see water from sink. Hence I think A and valve was to keep water from coming up shower. Drain restricted more so. Especially, due to lay out drains are probably indeed full of crud, restricting flow.
But if valve does close line to/from shower there should be no water coming up?
Easy enough if you had a place to do it, gray tank empty (gray) dump valve open, run water thru sink, with inside valve closed (handle pushed in against body) water should freely run out. Open inside valve-(handle fully pulled out bout 3" as Wayne described) look to see if water coming up shower. If no water flows outside with inside valve closed and outside valve open, but does when you open inside valve-well thats a problem, cant imagine that. Or you could add water to shower with valve closed, water would back up pretty quick if valve closes shower line. It could be valve was added because theres no P trap in shower.
I could think of a half dozen plausible scenarios how this is plumbed. You have rubber seals on valves, generally brass sensors in the tank(s) draino can be a problem, snake anywhere near a valve can ruin it, if it ends up in tank, well.
My fix would be start with water running both sink and shower alternating plunger between, if vents caps removable garden hose down it.
I agree I talked to a guy at Lowes about my situation he said do not use draino you could use Rid X but he said to poor 3 cans of Coke down the drain and another 3 cans the next day and that should clear up the problem of there is a blockage of hair and such :)Thank you
What I meant I wouldnt be pouring anything down (though least of all chems) until you are sure tanks is empty- which was the first concensous as to why backing up in shower. That needs to verified. With the tanks empty any liquid would flow, or a place to go if theres a blockage in the shower line or what is causing it kitchen sink to come up in bath you then you can deal with it. But if tank is full (or your lines blocked or valve situation isnt allowing) just adding. The way the lines are plumbed isnt clear.
If drains are as it should be and would otherwise work, I would then add to the shower line if it backs up try to clear. If added to kitchen and it backs up you have that piping above full of water. Least starting from shower you can control the level.
So your camper does have a black tank, on board toilet? Huh even more interesting. Be curious how this develops and what you find. Is a puzzle. Me I'd at this point certainly refrain from drain cleaner until its verified where or how its plumbed. Hopefully its that simple, blockage, just needs cleaning and not a plumbing issue, as it appears from the bits & pieces we've seen. Good luck
Yes, whats behind door number #2..
If the shower is indeed on the left, downstream of valve means its a direct drain for shower (this was 30 years ago). If its upstream means valve is inbetween shower and other drains:h The more I looked at picture just didnt compute, IF the dump valve was a dump valve. But it doesnt sound like it. Sounds as if there's another valve, though not a blade valve thats opened to drain. But that only makes sense if there was no holding tank and had hose thread. Possibly shower on the left is upstream of #2. Then #1 makes sense its on its way out except no mention of where its at outside
Otherwise looks like you either open to shower or close to use sink? But just a lot of guessing on my part trying to make whats shown flow...too many missing parameters-need one more better clue mommie53241 :)
http://i.imgur.com/sIe1kwEl.jpg This is whats under the furnace and coat closet left of stove You've got 2 pipes and 1 handle to the right of this is the sink and to the left in the shower. Hope this pic helps explain what I was trying to describe :)
Were not seeing the rest of the picture you are seeing, where these lines are going or from.
Is there another valve that is accessed from the little door shown earlier outside? Where do you connect drain/dump hose? Is the handle shown what you open to dump the tank (1 1/2" line?)
Not seeing any large lines normally associated with black tank.
edit: no black tank?
Dump valve inside? ...Wonder, just a passing thought, if valve shown is as diverter to keep replumbed lines from dumping into shower. If #1 goes to shower...The pipe that goes to left from valve..is that going outside or showere?
Wait a minute...
-Where does the pipe go from the valve at #1, (you said shower was to left, just verifying doesnt go out side)
-Where do the pipes go at #2, or are they just looped making a return just beyond picture, or is one going outside, the other up from something (sink or vent)
-The pipe at #3, Thats a large hole, is tank behind that?
If not tank then drain from kitchen?
-The angled pipe at #4, any idea where that goes (i guess vent also)
Ya know Ive been assuming 2 tanks-looking at this picture with no other info only one tank (IF it even has a tank)?, some one replaced, or at least replumbed, for what ever reason lack of correct fall the kitchen line will flow into shower if valve open, Im assuming valve is inbetween shower and one of the lines at #2 lead outside. Sure would like to see exterior valve and how you dump.
More than likley Im 180° off
I used Dicor 901BA when I replaced our roof, It is water based, (water borne more accurate) more of emulsion. Dried its like rubber cement, working with it was also similar to using cement. I have half a gallon left-not any real info on it but commercial package. Slop on side of can is still semi soft and sticky-water wont dissolve it. I could see it losing its bond on wood fibers, if you could get it wet enough to break down the wood. Doesnt sound like fun...
Im only judging by when I removed ours, the membrane was for the most part still adhered, so seperating it stretched not uniformly in its layers. Left it puckered. Will the pieces pull off?
Dumb question I've never painted an appliance do I clean and spray or do I need to use primer first and what kind of primer do I use? Does it need to be the same as stove paint?
Not a dumb question, but asking my 1st response is dont. Painting an appliance not something, well from a longevity durability view, thats easily done. The door and case maybe with adequate prep but specifically the stove top. One is getting a product that will handle heat, two is abrasion & impact. Looks like you have cast grates that set directly on top. Otherwise ours would be hammered brown, maybe speckled green porcelain a long time ago-(its white)
If its indeed stainless you have the best work surface, a bit envious there.
With window there dont know how shiny you'd want. Tried some Bar Keepers on it? stuff is awesome on Stainless. Lucus Metal Polish (auto parts) is the best Ive used on cleaning aluminum-which looks like your burners might be? Removal best for polishing, can be buffed out though I suppose due to age, possible non replaceable some caution advised. I polished ours due to coffee burnt in- came out looking like polished nickel, Only one went flying across the shop when stuck to buffing wheel.
There are refinishing services available- like porcelain for the grates. If your intent on color Id go/research that route at least on the top not knowing cost. Spray bomb could be that...
But opinion is once some of the needed repairs, other planned changes (back splash)etc are done possibly it will look better than you imagine.
Really, you are suggesting leave the chips on there, stuck on the rubber? Re-gluing down with those chips between rubber and new roof would at best look like crap, cant see how you could walk on it without eventually puncturing, let alone getting it to bond. Any appurtenance near like vent etc would be difficult to seal.
Myself I wouldn't trust the membrane after pulling up, whole point of this was to fix water damage, thats just me. If able to clean enough and comfortable thats membranes undamaged I assumed OP was regluing down. Dont know where he is on this project.. no update on either of the threads its in..
Second pic changes any ideas I thought I might have. One was I thought the 'support' board was on the wall. Maybe its what is planned but replacing with full width board, actually I might pull the cabinet end and replace with one contiguous piece to bed face frame. Corner. Make that area behind the sink width of counter all part of the back splash.
Ya gathering ideas is good but does seem to be a few different areas.
On fiberglass, gel, due to how slick will be difficult. Other than washing I didnt do any real prep. On the new flashing wiped with paint thinner. I also wanted the extra sealing, if just blacking out might be a better product.
If rolling on a product first coats will look pretty bad. When I redid ours didnt think about slickness of the added aluminum flashing. 1st coat roller kinda slide around, I was thinking this isnt going to work.
I had the same experience when I rolled the bed liner on our truck. Even though I had sanded it 1st coat just was bad. However 2nd coat is where it starts to build/cover. So I continued on camper.
On the al first coat I 'helped' the roller just to get product on. Let it dry, subsequent coats back rolled in one direction once tacking. Let it set for an hour, roll on another coat and it started building. Think 3 coats, Next day I rolled 2 more coats. All coats, dont dry roll, but dont over work too wet (or youll be back to square one for coverage). If it matters, rolling with any high solids product it will be textured, last pass (each coat) needs to be rolled in one direction. Bottom line its the film build up when rolling.
I coated aluminum flashing, galvanized tin angle, poly tank cover, primed wood, and previous coating. Only real problem was the exposed section of rear bumper, powder coated white. Its even more slick once wet & just sliding around. Just mopped and let dry. Took several coats before film thickness started to cover.
So there is a 120VAC as well as a 12 VDC heating element in yours?
Yes- however I reread your original post and my response doesnt apply-yours is a 2way (Ac & gas) ours is 3 way (AC/GAS & DC). I had 1st read as concern for how much 12v was being drawn due to 12v 'heater'
-which you dont have.
What Im gathering the fridge is one of the items to be disabled when power falls off, and your concern is the 12v it will use because it will switch to Gas when in auto mode and still use 12v for the controls? Though small draw (Ive never measured control 12v required)if fridge will default back to AC/auto when power cut/restored, yet another relay on the 12v feed?