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 > Your search for posts made by 'AnEv942' found 181 matches.

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  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: Review of my TorkLift Stow 'N Go Steps

The distance between the pivot holes and slots the resting pins set in of the bracket is slightly more than the distance of the steps corresponding pivot hole and mounted pin... if that makes sense. Causes the steps, if fully collapsed, to open a bit when rotated into bracket. I played with mine thinking I mis-assembled something before I started measuring. The cable on the rear of steps to keep stairs from unfolding wouldn't address. Actually if forcing to stay fully collapsed pins wouldn't go into bracket slots. I don't use cable with the Stow N' Go bracket. If it takes that much force to fold suspect one or more of the pivot bolts too tight. I readjusted mine, never tried lube.
AnEv942 05/27/17 12:11pm Truck Campers
RE: Review of my TorkLift Stow 'N Go Steps

Good write up- We recently installed the T/L Stow N' Go bracket and Landing Gear to our existing glowsteps. Having returned from a week out and using cant say enough about the ease of use. Big benefit for us is a couple of years ago added T/L basement step that now can stay bolted in place. (bolts to bumper splitting the 14" between bumper and door sill). Previously removing scissor steps I also had to remove the basement step. After 16 years of dragging stairs and step in & out of camper, setting up, or stopping on the road not having to use the flip over bumper step and setting up stool and dealing with the 3 steps up 4', just amazing. Now its just pulling the rubber snubbers and presto. Utilizing the glowsteps on the road just too nice.
AnEv942 05/26/17 08:50pm Truck Campers
RE: Torklift Disappoints Me

I'm not sure what the other nuts are, but they weren't the standard 1/2" nut. The threaded rod would only go part way into the nut, not the entire way through. I explained that to Torklift's customer service guy. Sounds like by description you weren't 'shorted' or given wrong nuts but the 3 fastguns were supplied with different style of lock nut. Why a difference in supplied nuts unknown but if 'Deformed thread' style lock nuts- they do by design require more effort to install. They are more positive (IMO) and semi-permanent than a nylon lock nut. However they really don't serve a purpose on the fastguns as far as function, other than as stated a backup if the threading nut stripped/broke. I'm not replacing mine but if I had my rathers my fastguns would all have been supplied with the upset thread lock nuts. In your case I would have replaced the 1 nylock with deformed thread nut. Doesn't help with your original frustration during assembly but for the next guy trying to figure out 'what the heck'...
AnEv942 05/26/17 11:24am Truck Campers
RE: Truck Camper leveling while attached to truck

truck suspension unloading while extending jacks is ok to point where you start lifting truck, judging that distance subjective. I drop jacks without disconnecting to stabilize- weight is still on truck. Leveling is disconnecting tiedowns, always. Leveling camper within that small distance (truck suspension and tiny bit of additional load on of tiedowns) pretty short- invariably its that just that 'little bit more' trying to get level, not worth the 5 minuets to disconnect-doesn't necessarily mean all 4. Also, more than the extra load on jacks is the campers tiedowns points that is seeing the load (and trucks).
AnEv942 05/22/17 02:02pm Truck Campers
RE: Counter space or sinks?

Agree but in our case generally we don't cook & wash like at home, few utensils cups, small pans. I remember Margaret being impressed with the sinks when we first looked at our camper- but if I told her I could get rid of the left bowl for that much more counter-space she'd probably pick up materials. Small camper, its a lot of compromises- my opinion also is Id rather give up the convenience of the second bowl for more counter space. But if I had my rathers it would be a 3bowl with small center that had disposer.
AnEv942 05/18/17 11:30am Truck Campers
RE: TorkLift Upper Stable loads installation?

Cant imagine that would be very entertaining...amazing what you can do when not knowing any better. I changed spring packs in our jeep that were way too soft, ended up adding/swapping around & replacing a few leaves, cutting down some older heavier leaves. To regain friction pads I had to drill. 2 rears leaves I only had to add hole at one end, fronts 2 leaves that needed holes both ends. Drilled 6 holes in the ends of reworked leaves for friction pads. I don't recall it being fun, till on 6th hole chipped flute and had to run up bit sizes to get close enough. Bit was nothing special, 5/8" HS, possibly cutting/retapering softened the metal. mute as Motes post also gives info that OP wont need to drill. I hadn't seen that metal frame earlier on the stable loads, I assume that acts as sort of a saddle to help stabilize. I do question the stick out length of bolt, though some application require use of spacers to adjust contact. (not an issue on the older Dodge it appears :)
AnEv942 05/18/17 11:03am Truck Campers
RE: TorkLift Upper Stable loads installation?

http://i.imgur.com/1JQw8IH.jpg That would be my 1st inclination, longer length would be in line with length of spring. But unless there is a hole rear of bracket the one tab may need cut off? (Ford has a slot thouhg not that wide) http://i.imgur.com/GRdwdWW.jpg I dunno, except the bracket may not set in the recess of rectangular hole of bump stop base. Tabs outward (into upward curve) would give anti rotation, would help stabalize. Given the contact area of spring and bump stop, lack of full support for base, Id be inclined to try, cant see it really making any differnace with forces applied the way it mounts but may not fit that way... Instruction show no orientation? Second guessing T/Ls intent
AnEv942 05/17/17 10:56pm Truck Campers
RE: Counter space or sinks?

Our counter is pretty small, cut up, but we generally dont have that much out. http://i.imgur.com/7A1Mrsn.jpg There is a small flip out table to left of stove. Camper came with a small cutting board that sat on sink but Margaret said too much effort to clean it, and no good place to store-not sure what happend to it. If I were to replace formica, sink would be replaced with a single. But that likely wont happen. On the 3 burner we have a sleeve behind knob of front burner so it cant be turned on.
AnEv942 05/17/17 10:06pm Truck Campers
RE: TorkLift Upper Stable loads installation?

In the metal of the bracket itself... the rubber sleeve has no holes, it might be pried between rubber and the metal to see if or where holes is. Stick a screw driver (dont tear it) between top rubber and the metal...Or prying between frame against the rubber, the sleeve 'might' come off. Or a sharp awl, poke middle of top downward. What others have said is there is a hole in the metal-just covered by the rubber.
AnEv942 05/17/17 09:13pm Truck Campers
RE: TorkLift Upper Stable loads installation?

Could the top of existing pad be pried up enough to verify if pre existing hole? Seems as though by others comments rubber doesn't come off, possibly a nub that uses hole. They don't 'look' like they are vulcanized on- But if there is a hole clearancing the rubber easier than drilling. But if required removing bracket certainly would be less a pain in the long run.
AnEv942 05/17/17 02:31pm Truck Campers
RE: TorkLift Upper Stable loads installation?

Well Says right in note 3 http://www.torklift.com/index.php/products/suspension/stableload#f3 "Drilling of rubber pad on some older Dodge applications may be required." So does sound like theres a hole-
AnEv942 05/17/17 09:36am Truck Campers
RE: TorkLift Upper Stable loads installation?

Really... that's supposed to work? One size fits all... Even if removing the original rubber and happened there's a hole or end up drilling how does a flat bottom bolt to a curved surface? If there was a hole I assume it'd be centered so contact would be off, further working the bolt. Goofy IMO Has some one actually done this? If I had to use those Id be inclined to pull the o'ls, drill and mount to top leave, clearance hole the bottom leave so they could still move independently. Or someone should design replacement brackets. Bewildered... Given the weight you plan seems being in the LA area a decent spring shop could be found at reasonable cost to replace springs. Probably just me- I don't get it, never looked at them before. I just looked at my truck, 01 Ford. Not as much curve as yours-different, think they might work. Springs are flatter in relation to less curved bracket. Plus it appears there would be, if any, a lot less engagement with no load. Curious. Wonder how difficult to slide the stock rubber off to see if hole? Pulling all 4 four to drill sounds like work...
AnEv942 05/16/17 08:36pm Truck Campers
RE: Replace faucet/add shower valve

Good solves on the faucet. I've been watching to many 'Impossible Engineering' episodes.. My first thought was that (towel rack) sure looks like something on the space station :)
AnEv942 05/12/17 08:19pm Truck Campers
RE: Norcold frig wire back panel

https://preview.ibb.co/cgeS1Q/20170512_082736.jpg That has to be the oddest picture hosting site... On the previous second picture you can just see a tiny bit of the brown wire going to this button. Its, I'm sure, appreciated by someone when a installer decides what ever color wire they choose to use is ok differing from original items mfg. Just makes tracing wires so much more challenging.... Though both ends, pos/neg disconnected (that is in itself odd) Id tape or nut the wire ends-stuff out of harms way. Having a hard time correlating the schematics with pictures-one shows shared wiring with fans? Bottom line I don't see risk using fridge until serviced.
AnEv942 05/12/17 07:28pm Truck Campers
RE: Electrical problem

Sounds more like LP detector (little beep). your battery(s) getting low?
AnEv942 05/12/17 09:10am Truck Campers
RE: Norcold frig wire back panel

Except stated .."and the brown wire comes from the round part in the middle left of the picture.".. Which looking at the picture is the one under the control/power board?
AnEv942 05/11/17 12:33pm Truck Campers
RE: Norcold frig wire back panel

(blue wire)edit looked at pdf? (p47-48 of doc- the foil? do you have ice maker? Had similar issue, though Dometic, mysteriously a wire appeared, goes up to fan and had 'fallen' out of butt connector. Yours is different but noted where blue wires go up at the first yellow sticker, behind the white 'clip', looks like a terminal ? https://preview.ibb.co/jKaJ6Q/20170510_153837.jpg height=480 width=640 https://image.ibb.co/gapNY5/20170510_153837.jpg Huge picture but details can be seen.... Odd that both brown and black wires come from blue-like a big loop. Wouldn't hook up anything until verified, some expensive equipment but agree should tidied up a bit until then..
AnEv942 05/10/17 08:36pm Truck Campers
RE: what do I do Here?

For me I always saw the drain lines as being easily broke because ours hang down a good 12-14" outside-free in the breeze. Luck is haven't yet. The lines themselves go up inside rear skirt cabinet to wing floor, 36" or better. The dumb part, in my opinion, other than too long, is the outside length being full of water, subject to freezing- no way to address should they just break or burst. I don't live nor camp where freezing would be concern. I don't use tools to loosen or tighten the drain caps and location actually would be hard to whack. So they work. If I ever addressed I would shorten considerably. Adding valves inside the cabinet where line pass doable but unheated so unsure resolve much.If they broke while out would be inconvenient at worst, I can access water in tank or pump into a bucket from broke line. Dumber in my opinion is no endpoint valves anywhere in our camper except water heater. If I were to add valves it would be at sinks and toilet, likely toilet 1st to throttle it.
AnEv942 05/06/17 12:09pm Truck Campers
RE: Quirky camper lights

It should or may or if it doesnt you know where to look... http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e178/AnEv942/ourelkhorn/LED/ledtail1.jpg height=480 width=640 Biggest issue on older incandescent bulb holders is the socket to mount joint comes loose or corrodes between (mine steel sockets were rusting). Its simply swedged on to a bracket. http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e178/AnEv942/ourelkhorn/LED/ledtail2.jpg height=480 width=640 That's riveted to al. backing plate that is grounded by lead that crimped to copper wire that is riveted, ....These are Bargman fixtures, aluminum plates and rivets subject to corrosion. Mine the lead riveted between plate and the connecting bar you could spin. http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e178/AnEv942/ourelkhorn/LED/ledtail3.jpg height=480 width=640 Following the fix of others I ended up running a jumper wires from the ground lead. Cut off the crimped on connector and added 2 wires soldering directly to base of bulb receptacles. Left original ground path intact. Not sure why some aftermarket mfgs don't hard-wire ground.
AnEv942 05/03/17 04:08pm Truck Campers
RE: Quirky camper lights

I'd run a jumper from truck, check if its a ground issue before cutting into any loom. Pulling a bulb would verify if its the issue from power crossover. Because its a weak light does sounds more like something looking for ground. Assume also that its weak enough or not long enough signal doesn't show when signal on, same path? Camper taillights mechanical grounding would be my first suspect if its not direct wire.
AnEv942 05/01/17 08:06pm Truck Campers
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