Ive never heard of anyone saying NOT to store camper on jacks, other than there are a handful of mfgs that recommend against it or using camper off truck due to the way camper is built.
Myself I store ours on stands (though most of weight still on jacks). I built stands capable of supporting camper when stored-they have come in handy when working on it.
Just a lot more stable in high winds, going in & out as mentioned, I hate seeing it or feeling bob around. Also as extra support for the water tank (basically sets on floor hung from 1x2s) that is usually stored full. I just see it as taking some of the stress of hanging from frame and jack mounts. That and when the next earthquake hits maybe it wont walk 12" across the pad :0
When off loaded camping I generally dont do anything other than lower as far as it will go. Questionable ground I do use some small stands to stabilize & for more contact. Loss of support on one of the front jacks whether frame failure, leg buckle, rain washing out the sand were parked on or simply ground squirrel borrowing and shes going over, period. Regardless if I acknowledge possibility happening or not.
If your camper frame & jacks and the ground it sets on are trust worthy there is no reason not to store on the jacks. (other than mfg exceptions). And no reason to be uncomfortable.
Yes everything should play well together.
As to the sealed/flooded-if you have removable caps (or 2 that cover 3 cells each) you have flooded. If the caps are non removable, select sealed. If unsure look up the battery at store site to get correct type. Dont guess on this one-
The temp sensor on your controller is local to where its located-just ensure its not in direct path of AC or heat sun, probably in the designated cabinet will be fine. Some controllers have a remote sensor to measure ambient of actual battery location, yes it can make difference-optimally, but short of mounting in another outside location which I wouldn't -good to go. Was always going to get one as ours has allowance for remote temp sensor but never did-it works.
My opinion is if batteries are wired true parralel so should the controller be. + to one battery, - to the other. No reason not to, only cost some extra wire.
Well they do make rear sheet metal, fiberglass roll pans to replace rear bumpers. Weight savings usually cumulative thing. Your '88s bumper probably weighs more than mine, though if I were to pursue be as much from appearance than anything else. Some do look good.
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e178/AnEv942/rollpan.jpg height=231 width=448
Certainly wouldnt offset the super hitch addition, but you could unbolt bumper & related brackets-weigh it out. At least give you idea if its worth the effort as far as weight savings. Me I want the rear protection so even if I did a roll pan Id be putting on nerd, I mean nerf bars...
There's a shield above the top hinge....
....the shield thing: I recall that aluminum doors on RVs and homes (many years ago) had a neat little shield that cups the top of door frame. Hmmmm? This could work for our propane door providing an appropriate width is available....
I've got to check out for a while....will be back at this Forum tomorrow. Thanks for all the ideas.
Searched drip rail, eyebrow drip rail. Aluminum, raw or white. Though due to width (stickout)might be issue with your door as it swings up so factory retainer would need modifying or some other means to hold open.
Theres also vinyl stick on J channel..
Would stop/divert water from hinge, cant say what would stop water from the bottom cut frame. IF the door and frame were square or equal length between corners, think I might rotate -+90°.
Also assuming its door, not migrating from elsewhere.
Looked briefly, this thread http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/25168579.cfm
Makes it sounds as cable has full sheath and is attached to the valve(s)? Sounds like you verified. Short of Lance responding, and not second guessing might look at that if you can see/access. It also sounds as though bottom removal doable, possibly an access panel on the 1181. I assume nothing behind that can be easily disconnect. But it does appear access to valves required.
Mine Id be circumventing need to remove the bottom, IF valve access could be had with panel removed. In that case, with everything else loose verifying only the sheaths are holding, possibly deep hole saw to cut around the hex on old panel. Redrill the new panel so sheaths can pass thru, use slotted washers to recapture, since your backing up panel anyway. But removing bottom or whatever is needed might in the long run be easier, then its do you replace the valve while your there?
I would add to the OP- DO NOT try to run Your camper thru the Sunsaver6 load terminals.
Skipro-sorry-didnt mean to start fire fight here-I was only caught by the comment about the jacks, unaware you were running you camper thru the load terminals. Majority of folks dont, at least I thought so. My conclusion when I initially set up was to not use the load output. I can say mine has been working for just starting its 8th year. Yours is working. I dont think a right or wrong here. (as long as ratings are not exceeded).
However as to warranty, I can find no warranty info as to whether or not the RV running thru load output or not has any impact, either way. I know large inverters and such can be an issue running thru the load output. Hence running thru a relay, & still a maintain control with the LVD, or running direct to battery(s).
Running parallel controllers of different load capacity (or higher than rated), recommendation is to run direct to battery- when load exceeds rating. I dont think that would be recommended if it would void warranty. Yes you do give up the LVD going direct (without controller activated relay), but wasnt a feature I was looking at, again I only went with 30amp for possible Input upgrades. diagram.
Bottom line, none
That would be the folder where sig pictures are stored..I saw it moment ago. Blue ford with a trailer but now I dont. Sig pics seem to be hit & miss as of late when/if they show,
edit: posted, your sig pic shows, mine doesnt..
edit again: edit above, when posted now mine shows your doesnt.
Imagine doesnt make it any easier when your trying to set up sig picture and its not showing due to other issue...
Huh, we have the same controller, love it, mostly for reason you described. Nice to know its more capable than I thought as far as the load. Though originally I went with the 30amp thinking we were going to add a panel.
Interesting though, other than yours will utilize the LVD by running camper thru the load, sounds as though you 'read' yours much the same way I do. Not its purpose but it does give some pretty accurate readings.
Thanks skipro3: I was unaware anyone used the load output to control whole camper. You are the first Ive I heard say they did.
Our controller is rated at 30 amp, but I only use our 'load' output to power one added circuit thats not critical that could potentially drain batteries, IE charging ports for my RC stuff.
Im pretty happy with our morningstar but I don't know thats its robust enough to power entire camper thru it(gen starter, jack- fan motors, etc) not to mention the wiring to it. At least not risking.
While the LVD nice it seemed to me, in what little research I did, to utilize and to ensure its main function of charging batteries wasn't jeopardized (me overloading) was to use relay. Unwilling to go there. I also see occasion that I might be willing to risk dumping battery to watch the last 5 minuets of a movie, raising jacks to escape the zombies irregardless of the controllers smarter decision.
As to the OP- possibly when you upgrade depending on size of panel, you may be able to utilize what you have, running a second controller in parallel. Though adding another controller to handle all, maybe just as cost effective. But down the road. Good luck
One other thing I wanted to point out about that Sun Saver MPPT. It has a MAX output load rating of 15amps. My camper has motor driven jacks. They draw almost 30amps when lifting the camper. Because of that, this controller would not work in most campers with motorized jacks.
Ummm? You wouldnt be driving them (jacks, or any other load) directly from solar output.
Well at less than 3 amps-I suppose you could hook directly to battery, personally not my choice, but there are a lot of smarter folks out there than me. If you went that route at minimum I would install fuses (both pos & neg),
Sounds like for what ever reason, someone removed controller. Only thing I would add is the wires from the panel are hot leading inside, insure they dont touch anything Or each other until controller added.
On second thought I might add, have you checked output from panle?
Verify it works.
..From what I understand, the converter converts AC shore power to 12 VDC and assumedly the generator AC power too? (seems odd/wasteful though to have the Generator make DC, invert it to AC, the convert it back to DC? But I digress...) I also understand that the converter charges the onboard batteries ( (2) 12 volt deep cycle marine/RV) but not very well and can easily boil them off?
First assumption is correct, but the generator is only another source of AC power for the converter (doesnt make 12v DC).
The box is just junction box between panel and wiring. May have diodes inside. It could also be used for combiner if you add a panel. I would recommend also getting at least a 10-15 amp controller for possible additions, larger capacity controller ok and ususally not much more cost.
Replacement lid from Fan-Tastic Vent showed up.
They also sent a new lift arm assembly, not sure why but I went ahead and swapped it out.
New lid is smoke, wasn't sure what color I was getting. Its nice, can see thru it, and lets light thru, camera doesn't like it.
Ended up with 12" between the 2 14" holes. Forgot how much fun the Dicor self leveling caulk is. While I had the 2 holes open I should have prerun wire across the roof for when/if planned solar panle addition happens, hindsight.
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e178/AnEv942/ourelkhorn/AC/ftv22.jpg height=388 width=640
More than likely I'm pulling off the shroud today, painting the AC base white and some of the metal bits exposed behind grill -it really stands out. Maybe it wont look as tall as it is but the black bugs me. Replace the shroud screws with stainless, slow the rust down a bit. Piddly stuff.
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e178/AnEv942/ourelkhorn/AC/ftv14b.jpg height=452 width=640
New vent lid. Removed the shroud and paint most of the sheet metal bits and screws with zinc, painted what showed thru grill black (not condenser). Painted the base white.
I also sealed the hole that leads inside where wires pass. The hole is in one top of the plastic fan housing, looks like half a tube of sealant was squirted in but still didnt seal top of hole. From inside (with shroud off) I could see light. ? Where its at probably only would have leaked while driving in hard rain.
White base just looks better to me, less visible to my eye anyway. Now were done.
Just concluding this. Campers buttoned up. Nice to do a project cause I want to.
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e178/AnEv942/ourelkhorn/AC/ftv15.jpg height=366 width=640
Got the vent rewired. Cut interior sleeve to fit, bit tight as it slips between the fan control plate and exterior sleeve that drops down. Theres only about a 1/16+ gap sleeve slides between. With the vent at an angle in relation to interior ceiling takes abit to get started but otherwise slipped right in.
Slides not completely out, but a bit awkward for me to reach the knob because of slide floor in front of the refer.
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e178/AnEv942/ourelkhorn/AC/ftv16.jpg height=480 width=640
Trimmed the ceiling panel trim. Started picking up the camper. Pretty happy, got AC back and keep our vent...
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e178/AnEv942/ourelkhorn/AC/ftv18.jpg height=480 width=640
Margaret came out, shes is really happy with the new AC as the heat really bothers her. She was impressed with the vent over the fridge, "This will be nice, its better over to the side as its always dark on this side", then steps up on the slide floor in front of the fridge like shes been doing it forever, opens the vent. "Perfect" She says and closes the vent. "Do you need any help putting your tools away?" Uhh, no I got it, thanks. And she goes back to the house.
Standing there for a minute, I step up on the slide floor and reach for the vent...huh.
Not knowing exactly which model
I remember I looked up the number (7 for ours) when I replaced our fabric in case it got away from me. Its determined by length of tube
Other docs at carefree