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 > Your search for posts made by 'AnEv942' found 289 matches.

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  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: The Journey of the Redneck Express - Pirates & Truck Campers

Congrats! Looks to be pretty nice- or is that some awesome "booty"... I assume the previous owner is appreciative, after having it so long, to have it go to so one else who's going to enjoy it. Hope your mods are enjoyable with out too many surprises-enjoy! Have to ask though, first thing I noticed in pictures are your trucks fenders, they are in 'primer? again.
AnEv942 09/22/15 09:10pm Truck Campers
RE: Fleetwood, Elk Horn 9T Short bed truck?

Pretty sure the Elkhorn 9T was for long bed, floor is more like 9'9" with the last foot and half or so below bed (bumper) level-. Fleetwood did make some S/B models but I dont recall designation. The 99s were a little lighter than later years but 2300# would be BASE Dry weight, no options. (water, propane:AC, microwave, antenna, radio, generator etc).
AnEv942 09/18/15 09:04pm Truck Campers
RE: Need some input; slide does not stay put

Just an older thread about the Lance travel locks used on some. https://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/25403979.cfm Ours locks ares simple 1" steel tubes with rubber feet placed between top of slide and wall. Looks like the same HJ mech. If I forget to use locks, our slide will open a bit but its noticeable in the mirrors.
AnEv942 09/15/15 08:38pm Truck Campers
RE: "Outside the Box" porch idea - opinions?

Pictures would make this oh SO clear. But if Im understanding, tailgate is current used, ladder? bolts to it when camping. You want another 12" between ladder and end of tailgate because the tailgate only protrudes 6". Which I gather is or acts as the landing when stepping out. While even a trashed tailgate cant see being less than material..be a big heavy thing that would need to be transfered to use camper. Seems, again trying to 'see', how about a simple frame the 12" x width of 'ladder' or a little wider that fits between? Possibly hinged and semi permanent on ladder. It would bolt on as existing ladder does?
AnEv942 09/11/15 03:46pm Truck Campers
RE: Anyone using Happijac 4800 jacks?

See-depends on user. The added braking of the acme screw would be enough for me to switch. The added capacity, length&weight, of the 4500 Id be tempted to replace both fronts. Our Atwoods the fronts like to coast a bit after releasing button when lowering camper, to the point I often 'bump' the up to stop.
AnEv942 09/11/15 11:48am Truck Campers
RE: Northstar pop-top question.

I would not use them as tie downs unless it could be verified that some kind of reinforcement to structure was also added. Which, because it appears there pretty close to outside edge, I cant see that might have been done unless camper had been opened up. Can you see any of the thread? If its a lag screw simply threaded into frame I wouldnt use for more than keeping cords off the ground. You would also lose pull angle even if structurally able to withstand camper movement. Which you mentioned shorter distance...if it is just a matter of using turnbuckles you have that are too short, simply add a few links of chain, or replace threaded rod with a longer piece of all thread to extend. The trim being cut and difference in caulk raises questions. Eyebolt looks pretty shiny?
AnEv942 09/11/15 11:16am Truck Campers
RE: I'm confused....as usual

My interpetation isnt that one group of RVrs answering questions/ offering solutions or precluding them to another group/type of RVrs. Its that sometimes when general answeres are given that simply dont relate due to the specific Rv platform. I also welcome and have used non TC owner info when I have question. Again, segregation, I at least dont think that was intent, but I also have noted more responses to questions without taking into consideration the type of RV.
AnEv942 09/07/15 01:26pm Truck Campers
RE: how to fix this mess

Doesnt the Big foot jack have a base that camper sets on? I expected to see the fiberglass exploded. Looks like it just pulled the screws. Short of mfg recommendations should you contact or other BF owners input... My first thought was to run a length of tape a few inches from camper mount line, to measure from for reinstall. Then separate the jack mount from jack. Spend required time cleaning everything while formulating plan. Mine would be to pump full of glue, tap in some fluted or spiraled dowels. Let it set. May need some cleaning up to use larger dowels if required. (if 1/4" bolts use 5/16" dowel-depends on fit) Depth by thickness of wall, but Id lean toward end of dowel just inside fiberglass. Check mount plate, if needed for next size up screw redrill mount plate. Adding maybe 3 more bolts down center. Larger diameter screws into existing repaired holes but longer may not be option. Pre-mount jack plate using new screw holes, drilling pilot holes. Then drill pilot holes into the the existing doweled holes, or mark those that cant be drilled with plate in place. Once all holes ready, mount plate using appropriate sealant. Caulking each screw also as added. I guess because on our filon covered alum frame, if I tore off a jack what a mess we would have, this 'looks' like a minor repair. Im sure doesnt make it any easier though. Almost looks like a frangible joint.
AnEv942 09/07/15 12:33pm Truck Campers
RE: 1968 Travel Queen Resto Mod - 9. Electrical (AC/DC)

Could rotate the arm on fixture base 180°, remount base 180°. Would raise the 'globe' & bulb 3" or so in relation to box, fill up the space better. Might need a small shield behind bulb. Id nix the receptacle but it could be moved to bottom. A little to 'Queeny' for me, not sure. Maybe one of those flickering candalabra bulbs?
AnEv942 08/28/15 10:30pm Truck Campers
RE: Lance camper faucet

The Phoenix R4477 faucet linked is a direct replacement for your faucet. Standard 4" center. The issue with fit is selection of 4" faucets WITH diverter, is limited. But replacement is pretty easy install. Nice for an inexpensive faucet with shower diverter. I replaced ours last year with one- though I used the R4077, replacing the faucet with diverter for sink and installed separate R0477 for shower. Somewhere theres a thread of install but dont find it. The advantage, depending on how your shower head is held, would be a bit farther from sink? Most of the faucets with diverter have standard shallow height. Suppose though you might get the benefit of both, using either faucet or head in place.
AnEv942 08/27/15 11:37am Truck Campers
RE: Truck camper electric jack pre wiring

Fuse should be located pretty close to battery, ours are small metal breakers attached to floor just behind battery box. However as its a pre-wire wires may not have been run that far and terminate there. Might be coiled anywhere if fuse or resettable breaker not also installed. Possibly (with a tether in case you drop) stick a camera back in look around. Though I would assume easy to gain access, I wouldnt assume actually connected-but test. Forward water tank box? Worst case I can think is plugs installed but wire not run. Might pull one-to verify wire extended, ours used crimp-on terminals, plug leads fairly short.
AnEv942 08/26/15 09:28am Truck Campers
RE: Solar Wiring

As too fuses, I dont see the protection for the controller? in from panel or on load side. Electrically as shown may, and admittedly I'm not the crispest cookie in the jar, but I would have run solar directly to batt before any possible loads? Still studying-for some reason the path is not clear. fridge/inverter go thru 2 breakers...
AnEv942 08/23/15 11:23am Truck Campers
RE: fridge issues STILL -UPDATE

Id bend back the 2 sheet metal fingers, slid the fuse away from the burner, reclamp. Hard to say, maybe half an inch. Id leave the fuse end toward flame. If its actually flame or its heat blowing fuse and you have just the wire kinda defeats fuse. Id also take the access panel shields with you, just in case road air blows out flame. IF you do still blow the fuse, I assume your jumper wire that bypasses lower thermal fuse goes from the snap disk on flue back to refer, retaining its value. Hopefully in all this problem resolved.
AnEv942 08/21/15 11:47am Tech Issues
RE: fridge issues STILL -UPDATE

Here are some pictures. DH took the pics and I'll try to upload them for you. http://i.imgur.com/EUQMOtq.jpg Though a bit different configuration, location of lower thermal fused link looks, well one thing at a time. Mine, retro kit the holes were prelocated for bracket- so I assume your was also, just looks close. Looking at pictures I have to agree with Old Bisquit, my primary observation is bend that shield back where it belongs, its acting as a scoop catching the road air thats coming in. Oh that flue baffle Dometic sent- score! They do burn up eventually and effect performance-- keep that. Kinda curious about the upper baffle that you mentioned. Edit-just saw Chris reply, might explain why location looked odd. As it works when stationary, either fuse to close, or air is blowing flame/heat into it. ON the access panel though I would disagree about removing for on road gas use, though you do have the inner shield.
AnEv942 08/20/15 04:42pm Tech Issues
RE: fridge issues STILL -UPDATE

This was the recall add-on? Simular to this? (Outer baffle removed) http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e178/AnEv942/ourelkhorn/ele10.jpg height=640 width=480 The thermo fuse link at the bottom of burner?
AnEv942 08/19/15 09:58pm Tech Issues
RE: fridge issues STILL -UPDATE

No you do not have the wrong refrigerator, unless you wanted option to run on 12v. Why the service guy suggested running on 12v with your 2 way is beyond me. Even IF you had a 3way doesnt address the problem of blowing fuses on LP. The disscussion, 12v verse gas on the road, will not help determine issue. Would you happen to have a picture of the thermocouple fuse thats blowing? I also am unaware of a fuse that would blow...only trying to see the real issue. There are the safety thermal fuse and thermal button on the flue, designed to shut off in high temps but not really part of the thermalcouple. I suppose going down the road possibly heat is being concentrated in one area, tripping thermal fuse-that would be easy to address- but outside of the thermocouple realm.
AnEv942 08/19/15 12:09pm Truck Campers
RE: Eagle Cap 950 Tail, Stop and Backup light Assembly

Thats very cool! Good info. Kaper II, never heard the name before-looked around price not bad. And now seeing, logo is on the lense, KII. The bezel 8x11 a bit larger on the dual fixture so 'could' be used as option to bargman.
AnEv942 08/17/15 08:30pm Truck Campers
RE: Eagle Cap 950 Tail, Stop and Backup light Assembly

http://i.imgur.com/zgkr9Eq.jpg height=375 width=500 Nice-got this off the amlrv.com site just a better picture. The center reflector hadn't noted. I would have changed our bargman BU to the full panel LED except for having to add reflectors. Wonder how close in size the bezel is to the bargmans. Then again 4 years...
AnEv942 08/16/15 11:08am Truck Campers
RE: Eagle Cap 950 Tail, Stop and Backup light Assembly

All the 950s Ive seen pics of sure look like Bargmans? http://www.bargman.com/products/taillights/taillight-led/33hRfdXCPOCzJxEI%7CE!QucCHUKzFF6HB
AnEv942 08/15/15 08:58pm Truck Campers
RE: Range hood light

I changed our wedge style bulb to bayonet BA15 to use same 1141/1156 LEDs as other lights. Used socket from auto parts http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e178/AnEv942/sledprep.jpg width=480 http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e178/AnEv942/sledprep2.jpg width=480 Its been in vent about 5 1/2 years with no issues.
AnEv942 08/14/15 09:31am Truck Campers
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