I cant address the lightning strike as in earth ground.
But on the 12v grounding, or 12v negative return, if mounted on truck likely its tied and is chassis grounded (NOT EARTH GROUND). Even unmounted likely chassis grounded, though possibly not designed as such battery negative probably can be be metered to/thru chassis.
most everything I'm aware of has a wired return on anything 12v, not relying on chassis-but frame is connected to battery negative. One source is the water heater, the other the refrigerator, what or where else unknown. I discovered this on ours hooking up light by door, routing ground wire behind screen door frame and light came on. Always assumed camper frame isolated on the 12v. Nothing you want to rely on, negative returns should be wired, though I utilize for the CB. But I'd meter if you think the frame isnt tied to battery.
East to west highways truckers are on 19.
North to south highways they use 18 ????? is that right?
Never heard that before, possibly -though have, at least our area, that 19 used for hiways, 18 for local traffic between commercial drivers.
Picture of ours getting ready to slide lower unit out to replace with a P/D converter.
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e178/AnEv942/cvb.jpg height=513 width=640
Once wiring disconnected the entire lower metal box slides out (Magnatec). With its big honking transformer that gets really hot. Ours is raised off the floor about an 1 1/2" so I only had slight discoloration of floor from heat.
I briefly looked around thinking might find pic of converter and where it might be, closest was picture showing something on front wall but had a funny panel, not sure. If camper has one you'd think it would pretty obvious, certainly easily accessible.
I used half a mirror arm mount bolted to about 3"x6 plate, clamping the roof rack.
Could not tell you why it works but it does. Electrically the rack is connected to aluminum frame so it is grounded. However I use small magnetic antenna so its only grounding thru the magnetic field. Not optimum but functions.
As far as ground 'plane' do not know whats its using. I assume its the height that compensates for otherwise poor mounting. Using everything underneath as the plane.
Most mounts the shielding sheath of coax also carries ground which is connected to base-typically mounted and its grounded.
OK that kinda makes sence- I've wondered when folks dicuss different requirements of batteries but Ive never seen mention of the what the truck supplies (unregulated as far as type etc as you mentioned). But then again I really don't if it matters for short term 'bulk' replenishment.
Couple of thoughts IF tapping alt as source doable, seems you'd really need to insure amp input limit to controller. Second as controller uses volts, the minimal(max) input of @14.4v or so from truck would convert to what seems like a very small amp conversion output?. Possibly less than panel output? Arr making head hurt...interesting though
What I found was that the batteries would stay around ~12.6v or 12.7v (possibly close to 12.9v after several hours of driving but would quickly fall back to 12.6v or 12.7v once parked for an hour with just a couple of LED lights on. ...
'Fall back? Holding volts of 12.6-12.7 on a battery (12v) thats not connected to a charge source after a given amount of time, hour or so is ideal? Are standing volts for (2)6v batts higher?
Unless I'm misreading, sounds as though your expecting holding volts to be closer to highest charge rate?
When I installed the solar charge controller for my 60w panel it was on a cloudy day but the controller was still delivering 1 amp of charge. At first I was confused that the unit would never read anything above 1 amp but I think I figured out that when the controller is first installed it limits the amperage until the batteries have gone through a complete charge cycle. Because the days I was messing with the system were cloudy and it being winter, there wasn't enough time for the 60w panel to top off the batteries so the unit stayed at 1 amp, ....
No, the charge controller shows amp rate its delivering, whether limited by solar out put or sensing that's all batteries need, but likely as cloudy all panel could muster. 60 watts max on a good day 4.5-5 amps
adamis: ..The controller indicated that at 12.6v the batteries were only about 60% full so it appears that my batteries had not been topped off even while on the road. ...
That's odd, 60% at 12.6v
adamis:...However just yesterday I was at the truck that had been taken out of indoor storage and the batteries were fully topped up from the trickle charger they plug in for me and the batteries are now showing 13v and 100% charge...
Real reason for me chiming in- how long AFTER disconnected from charge source was it showing 13.v?
adamis:..Back to the reason for my post though is that I need to put a charge controller between the truck and camper batteries. Instead of installing a second controller I'm considering having the toggle switch to select the source of power going into the controller I already have.
Well I really do not understand what the purpose is here and obviously missing something. Ill reread post but I do not understand the desire to regulate the trucks input, it already does?. Multiple input charge sources work fine with each other, they all 'read' the batteries not the other charge source. Though off hand its sounds as though truck and camper batteries are still tied together when truck shut off? Unsure what solar controller would make of the input from alternator, less so the truck seeing charge controller instead of battery.
Truck should charge its battery(s) and with no load send enough to camper (even with smallish factory wire) with nothing really running to also charge it.
With no load solar should get camper up to near full charge. With both, on the road, batteries should be charging, both truck and camper. If not then you have a problem.
The fix purposed, if it worked which I cant see what it would do, doesn't address whatever the real issue is. At worst I see recipe for magic smoke, at best is its thick enough to mask the problem.
Just to clarify
my assumption (and appears others) was comparisons/questions were being made between a portable compressor designed to put out a good amount of air like a viair 400+ and an on-board system designed specifically to maintain air bags as a system-say a firestone or airlift comp kit.
The convenience was between manually filling air bags with portable compressor and on-board system, again that was designed/hard plumbed to conveniently adjust air bags from cab.
If this were the case then yes the on board system designed for air bags- being used to fill tires is pushing it Way beyond it design parameters. You should go with the portable.
But Im wondering if instead the comparison/question was between otherwise similar compressors, say a Viair 400. one used as a portable and one to be on-board as meaning semi-hard mounted and plumbed to truck and air tank. Which would also change the meaning of convenience question...
If the later then I see more the difference in money for on-board as mentioned. whole different subject. The convenience I see as similar to how our jeep is set up. Though mechanical engine driven instead of electric pump, I just turn it on, while its filling the air tank I retrieve the air hose from its pouch on my seat back, plug it in to the external mounted quick connect and start blowing stuff up.
In the later case on-board more than a convenience, it's simply practical where large volume of air is needed. But yes it costs.
As far as tanks, any compressor attached to a tank will outperform itself verses non-tanked. Yield more volume, constant pressure and less run time of motor. If tank left pressurized-it would service air bags several times without turning on comp.
Portable would be less so with an attached tank..on board system tank gets mounted on truck. But not all on board systems include a tank.
We are constantly adjusting air bags, whether taking camper on/off, adjust to get level, road conditions. Upgraded to onboard- worth the price for the added convenience-its just push a switch anytime, camper on or off to adjust bags. Tires not so much.
I do have tank on onboard system and set up to use for other air needs. However I don't use unless really necessary for tires, too much run time for the small air bag compressor. I carry a small 110v electric compressor in camper that I use with gen. for tires. As tire filling is a manual thing anyway kinda made sense.
Works for us- air is pretty much required I couldn't limit source to one compressor.
In your case, adjusting tires over bags, a small on board without tank dedicated to bags would give you the convenience with a bit less cost- then a better portable for tires. Or, just the better portable for the volume to fill tires and manually adjust bags.
I wouldn't use on board air bag compressor where its primary duty would be filling tires. You can always do onboard for bags later if the convenience seems justifiable.
I doubt this may help but... ours is a HappiJac circa 2001.
Handle must be released or will not move..
However I read on your linked pdf about second person holding power switch after releasing? I don't know what that is about-sounds like a brake- ours you mechanically disengage- it free wheels-no second person doing anything or accessing switches so yours may differ. Just on the off case thinking handle possibly either broke, missing or just hidden....
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e178/AnEv942/ourelkhorn/sldpwr13.jpg height=600 width=800
This is taken laying on floor, slide is in.
When slide is out cant see this, access is thru floor. The sub floor cut out, just visible in top right of picture, aligns over motor when slide is out, removing a carpeted board gives access. Ours is full wall. Sounds like yours is partial slide-access thru seat cabinet.
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e178/AnEv942/ourelkhorn/sldpwr14.jpg height=600 width=800
This just shows lever flipped to disengage position. As the lever is on bottom of unit-when looking thru from floor side-its barley visible.
Nice camper. By design, no overhang, ladder cant be moved as some have suggested. Also not sure if room for opposite door swing?
Did note door has no lower window, IF it were mine think Id take the opportunity to fix the door by adding a lower window instead of patching. (after addressing the stop situation).
Also noted the outdoor speakers. OP might, if camper has them, want to search for threads on potential water issue and take proactive steps.
Not sure- problem I'm having is how this was presented. OP didn't come here asking for suggestions or recommendations, possible solutions that might solve problem. Instead redirecting us to a video drumming support for his conclusion- after the fact.
Unsure why mfg took the stance they did, but also how conclusions are being made with the limited information presented. To me there is something missing here.
A supposedly misplaced rubber bumper on door allowed door to contact ladder and was punched.
Only positive I can glean, whether or not this gets resolved to OPs satisfaction, at minimum if a QC problem is that AMLRV starts verifying placement of the bumper so this doesn't happen to others.
For those with this model, (or any camper that damage might occur from a swinging door,) is to inspect-address. To OP I would seriously suggest removing bumper from the window frame. Because camper doors can twist- Id use 2 bumpers.
Other than keeping honest folks honest-locks positively secure in closed
position. Helps my memory when I get back in the truck, say refueling, and locks laying on the seat-doh.
Outside of ebay etc can be had for less thru smaller retailers-just couple
I also was directed to page 5 of that thread-
To share a post of a thread though, click on the Link button of particular post within a thread, copy the link displayed and paste that (as a link) it will direct to a individual post of a thread...
As far as the foam baffles, I doubt finding foam baffle hats less than 2" deep will be easy or really needed. As long as the back inside diameter of baffle is close to back of speaker diameter (magnet/housing), squashing the 2"- 2 1/2" deep foam baffle should be easy to fit depth. Material is very soft, maybe 1/4" thick, also compressible. You can wad these things up into a ball. I'd be more concerned with speaker flange compressing uniformly where the foam hat laps outside.
Probably if perimeter could be sealed. Ive used these in our older CJ, has a sheet metal dash so speaker basically were in free space- did improve sound. Also protected speakers from water running behind dash.
Don't know how much room behind in wall, they are squash-able though...
Use to pick these up off the shelf radioshak stereo shops etc. For $7 shipping, amazon etc save alot. 'speaker foam baffle'
You'd think RV manufacture would use a sealed plastic box to install speakers in, not relying on speakers.
Could be theres is a battery cutout switch somewhere that would explain a lot of description. Yes camper should run on the battery unplugged from truck or shore.
The jacks however somethings askew:h. Jacks normally tied directly to battery, may or may not be controlled by a battery cut off. But the front? Im not even sure how you would wire to only see truck...tapped to charg line before it enters converter?