You unknowingly described our door to a tee.
Works pretty much as you outlined. Hinged on wall the 2 halves are held together with simple hasp, me I call them window sash hasps,
Recently replaced ours.
Locked it acts as single door, unlatched it is bifold.
Latch is all but identical to what is on our screen doors at home.
Inside simple handle to pull closed when unlatched, acting as bifold, slide hasp to retain. Door will stay closed without using the slide hasp but can easily be opened from outside, or if you bump with elbow. I assume height was to keep small child from being traumatized but the loud yelling from outside as door hinges removed...
I would think mid placed latch of some sort if door used as bifold often, ours swings toward camper exterior door so not an issue when stopped on the road for a few
Might have good DYI's but,
This is just his way of 'advertising' his website to drive traffic to make money, nothing more. Not allowed on RV.net.
Only posts are of his website link. And this one is NOT updating a new web address. Just using RVnet for advertising to increase traffic to his site....
Are you serious? Netboy has been around for years- (previous handle was Netboy) circumstances (his original host Comcast no longer hosting web pages) caused him to move his page. That host ended up redirecting to questionable page so Netboy moved it again. Just a heads up.
At the risk of being chicken little First I would disconnect the battery charger before any more sniffing around.
If its the battery(s) that rotten egg smell is hydrogen gas. Hydrogen gas is explosive. It is also corrosive both to metal and human body parts, dont take a deep breadth when opening the battery compartment.
If its enough to seep into camper I would think you have a problem. Overcharging because of faulty (or by design) battery minder can cause batteries to boil, (creating gas). Removing said charger batteries may be ok if its just charger continuously charging fully charged battery.
Or battery can go bad- hooked to a charger that doesn't know the difference between needing a charge or shorted cell.
Sewage - dead mice - stinky stink can be dealt with but first verify it ISN'T or is the batteries. If battery hot and seriously out-gassing after removing charge source let it cool down before doing anything. Slightest spark can cause explosion. Did I mention hydrogen gas is explosive?
Once batteries cool check. Bad battery, voltage usually will fall pretty quickly. Or take somewhere and have tested. I had a battery loose a cell- noted solar was sending quite a few amps to batteries not in use- opened the battery compartment about burnt my sinuses out, I ended up replacing both batteries.
Hopefully you just left a melon in the fridge,
That is just awesome. I have looked at the under table add on drawers but also would be unable to get knees under table. But a flip up lid-wow.. opens a lot of possibilities. I just want to go retrieve our table and start cutting.
Unsure of vendors thoughts but what you described is what I did. Fixed panel on roof hardwired to controllers solar input. I ran a short pigtail/quick connect from controller (solar input) to outside cabinet. Portable that's plugged in when needed.
Need more just plug in the portable. Main panel stays in loop.
I don't know if plugging in portable when the roof isn't really working is 'how' it should be done or optimum but it certainly works. They aren't trying to feed each other. At least I 'see' more amps going to batteries. But maybe other concerns I'm unaware of?
Ya I don't know why simple 12v RV recirculator isn't offered. We added one to house, 35' run to bathroom sink, waiting waste was in gallons.
Camper maybe quart to 1/2 gal-but that's every time you'd like warm water. I get caught up in the details every time I think I'm going to address camper. Started a couple of times. Simplest is just another line back to tank. For some reason don't like the idea, though many do.
Id like to see recirc thru water heater via its cold inlet which involves 2-3 check valves. I actually picked up small pump but haven't pursued- mostly finding small check valves. Or tee with with 2 checked inlets.
What I do not know is if simply pumping hot to cold line at sink would work. Other wise seems small pump between with single check valve. Use thermal button (w/manual switched power)or simple momentary switch to control. I 'think' the flow would be loop side thru water heater and not involve main pump, not sure.
Hmmm I have flex lines on bath faucet now, lines are tee'd for shower valve. Simplify playing with it, 'least enough to see if this viable.... umm also have second water pump switch in bath, tap that to energize recirc pump switch...
Think Ill look at it tomorrow or at least think about it.
I installed ours, its an A&E. Technically very simple install. Drilling pilot holes, driving screws. Study the instructions as far as placement etc, though I found the install simpler than the instructions trying to explain. Again an easy dyi install. However, other than the mechanical part that a person can do themselves, having a second person (and second ladder) to help, simply due to length of tube makes it a lot easier.
I still get up and check that its clean, if dry most stuff falls off as topper rolls up. If stuff is stuck to it, usually just tapping the edge I can reach without getting on roof will 'walk' of debris. If needed though cleaning (throwing a towel while holding one end to sweep) due to greater slope is a lot easier.
Ive never heard ours flap in the wind, but I have tried to sleep with rain before installing it. Our slide roof is like a drum. Helps with heat. Ive also never had anything blow under but still on occasion Ill lay a towel on roof-push it thru with broom to wipe.
I had to replace fabric at 7 years-that was more difficult than the original install.
It appears your jacks are Atwoods. New electric jacks are about $1500, brackets ~$150, are not included. As long as the bolt spacing on jack flange (3@ 5 1/2" O/C) you could reuse yours.
As to the holes in camper-likely even the different Atwood brackets offered, buying new, hole spacing would be close (or too close to accomplish much) possibly even changing brands may not yield sufficient hole relocation, but do not really know.
However noted your jacks are mounted extended outward. If it were mine I would seriously consider, at least the one, remounting brackets facing rearward. It would put All the bolts into camper between existing holes. I believe brackets are symmetrical so could be flipped. If not switch both rear jack brackets side for side facing rear ward. Though I'm more of a hardwood dowel and glue person, still need to do what you can to plug old holes and strengthen 2x2.
The lower stabilizing bracket, after fixing area behind as best you can and reinstalling, Id add another pair above couple of inches, rotated 90°, about $25 a pair. They help reduce flexing of main brackets-. Im not sure with the sheet metal clamps about gusseting under camper. My 2 cents
http://panther-rvproducts.com/Atwood-Jacks_c126.htm, just some Atwood options. Several ways could be repaired, if your P/U weighed more might be inclined to suggest more structural repair- simply don't know if warranted for the loads seen?
Congrats! Looks to be pretty nice- or is that some awesome "booty"...
I assume the previous owner is appreciative, after having it so long, to have it go to so one else who's going to enjoy it. Hope your mods are enjoyable with out too many surprises-enjoy!
Have to ask though, first thing I noticed in pictures are your trucks fenders, they are in 'primer? again.
Pretty sure the Elkhorn 9T was for long bed, floor is more like 9'9" with the last foot and half or so below bed (bumper) level-. Fleetwood did make some S/B models but I dont recall designation. The 99s were a little lighter than later years but 2300# would be BASE Dry weight, no options. (water, propane:AC, microwave, antenna, radio, generator etc).
Just an older thread about the Lance travel locks used on some.
Ours locks ares simple 1" steel tubes with rubber feet placed between top of slide and wall. Looks like the same HJ mech. If I forget to use locks, our slide will open a bit but its noticeable in the mirrors.
Pictures would make this oh SO clear. But if Im understanding, tailgate is current used, ladder? bolts to it when camping. You want another 12" between ladder and end of tailgate because the tailgate only protrudes 6". Which I gather is or acts as the landing when stepping out. While even a trashed tailgate cant see being less than material..be a big heavy thing that would need to be transfered to use camper.
Seems, again trying to 'see', how about a simple frame the 12" x width of 'ladder' or a little wider that fits between? Possibly hinged and semi permanent on ladder. It would bolt on as existing ladder does?
See-depends on user. The added braking of the acme screw would be enough for me to switch. The added capacity, length&weight, of the 4500 Id be tempted to replace both fronts.
Our Atwoods the fronts like to coast a bit after releasing button when lowering camper, to the point I often 'bump' the up to stop.
I would not use them as tie downs unless it could be verified that some kind of reinforcement to structure was also added. Which, because it appears there pretty close to outside edge, I cant see that might have been done unless camper had been opened up. Can you see any of the thread? If its a lag screw simply threaded into frame I wouldnt use for more than keeping cords off the ground.
You would also lose pull angle even if structurally able to withstand
camper movement. Which you mentioned shorter distance...if it is just a matter of using turnbuckles you have that are too short, simply add a few links of chain, or replace threaded rod with a longer piece of all thread to extend.
The trim being cut and difference in caulk raises questions. Eyebolt looks pretty shiny?
My interpetation isnt that one group of RVrs answering questions/ offering solutions or precluding them to another group/type of RVrs. Its that sometimes when general answeres are given that simply dont relate due to the specific Rv platform. I also welcome and have used non TC owner info when I have question. Again, segregation, I at least dont think that was intent, but I also have noted more responses to questions without taking into consideration the type of RV.
Doesnt the Big foot jack have a base that camper sets on? I expected to see the fiberglass exploded. Looks like it just pulled the screws.
Short of mfg recommendations should you contact or other BF owners input...
My first thought was to run a length of tape a few inches from camper mount line, to measure from for reinstall. Then separate the jack mount from jack. Spend required time cleaning everything while formulating plan.
Mine would be to pump full of glue, tap in some fluted or spiraled dowels. Let it set. May need some cleaning up to use larger dowels if required. (if 1/4" bolts use 5/16" dowel-depends on fit) Depth by thickness of wall, but Id lean toward end of dowel just inside fiberglass. Check mount plate, if needed for next size up screw redrill mount plate. Adding maybe 3 more bolts down center. Larger diameter screws into existing repaired holes but longer may not be option.
Pre-mount jack plate using new screw holes, drilling pilot holes. Then drill pilot holes into the the existing doweled holes, or mark those that cant be drilled with plate in place. Once all holes ready, mount plate using appropriate sealant. Caulking each screw also as added.
I guess because on our filon covered alum frame, if I tore off a jack what a mess we would have, this 'looks' like a minor repair. Im sure doesnt make it any easier though. Almost looks like a frangible joint.
Could rotate the arm on fixture base 180°, remount base 180°. Would raise the 'globe' & bulb 3" or so in relation to box, fill up the space better. Might need a small shield behind bulb. Id nix the receptacle but it could be moved to bottom.
A little to 'Queeny' for me, not sure. Maybe one of those flickering candalabra bulbs?