snip... It would take a very long continuous gust to keep the flame from reigniting....snip
highway speed can generate a pretty continuous source of 'gust'...But not all campers are subject to this
snip... for so long that the valve shuts and check light comes on....snip
Our tries, I think its 3 times, and then goes to 'Check', doesnt take that long time wise. We also have a Dinosaur board.
snip... Been through lots of miles and wind storms since without a problem.
Count yourself fortunate...
Was expecting a cabover verses chassis mounting a house trailer- didnt spend too much time on it. Too bad, most of the show seemed about silly mini-helicopter and sheared bolts "should we replace with grade 5 or grade 9?" Duh, is this a test?
I think I might reinstall the rear jacks to help support weight when offloaded, at least until a fix is applied. Still use the stablelift for raising and lowering.
Never occurred to me using stablelift on a slide wall-but makes sense, the bowing, all the weight rearward being applied in the middle. Few if any full wall slides or even partials have any real structure under slide.
What you really want is the sales brochure, even more unlikely to find a copy. It would list capacities, features etc. The Fleetwood manual covers all modles as noted, and is a generic ' RV how to' but no details on anything.
Any 4" O.C. faucet would work with the water lines, standard 1/2" connections. Problem or limiting is the configuration with the diverter/shower outlet. Even the single lever Amazon Dura link would work as far as water lines.
There are a couple of links in the TCU sticky where folks have installed better faucets but doesn't look like you have room?
Were getting ready to install back up camera. Started out with a mirror replacement but ended up going different route. Replacing the Am/FM /casset/CD/clock in dash radio with an android unit that has backup feature. Cheap unit that comes with camera-only has one camera input and its probably more like a $20 camera.
Mostly other wants that swayed us, since were in there wiring. GPS/map, hands free phone, backup camera, wifi etc, more stuff than I'll ever use but still listen to radio,CD, all in one unit. Backup camera for camper, will be a separate install-once I figure out how to switch inputs and wire from top of camper...
I don't know if they can be had with split screens though. Just responding to the "doesn't require a large monitor to place somewhere"
comment as an option.
That's also what I did, but in reverse. Added the 100w portable(with its Viewstar) to existing 130w roof panel and Morningstar prostar30. But I couldn't see how the controllers would not see the input to batteries from each other and not read as battery state and get, at minimum, confused.
That and me reading 2 controllers which 'seemed' kinda silly.
So I removed the portables controller and ran to a plug from existing Controller. Mine is switched so I can see individual input and combined.
I agree that the batteries can have multiple charge inputs and it works fine, its just the controllers are a bit smarter than gen or truck.
Yes if there's no plumbing or structural reason sounds like a simple task. Northwood should be able to confirm.
However its the comment "...so I can upgrade to a AF 992 or 1150 in a couple years..." that makes me wonder if worthwhile. DRW should be less affected by weight transfer so dealing with the 18" back for a while less a hit than modifying camper. If you really hate it might force the 'dream' camper into reality sooner.
Maybe it does not matter- but selling or trading modified camper seems
might decrease its value to the point getting replacement that much further out? Then again might open larger market if more long beds in your area.
More question than answers, whether battery bad or not unknown- having tested is the only way to determine, short of letting set to see if it takes charge.
But yes if battery is dead even plugged in jacks will not work until its up a bit. Charging thru converter takes a while-hours, using jacks with low battery will force converter to try to supply load which they are not designed for. The recommendation using jack in pairs, or singularly, verses all 4 is one to heed. Cut the load on a marginally charged battery.
Do your jacks have a manual crank? Save battery for the actual lift off truck (if it will).
I dont under stand why solar isn't keeping battery charged. Camper not in use battery should not go flat even after several days. Though I didn't see a size/capacity on panel(s) even cloudy panels supply slight charge. Only drain should be maybe a detector-minimal
Whoever told you getting a small generator is a silly idea- is silly. With trailer in tow you have room if you have the means. A rack or other for when trailer not in tow, other than back up allows pursuit of A/C or whatever.
Though operator inexperience can go a long ways to create problems that others may not have- something doesn't sound right with system.
It could be a simple as another dumped battery. Its really hard on them if regularly discharged too low- never getting fully recharged.
Maybe couple of layers foiled bubble wrap, reflextix as mentioned. Most hardwares sell by the foot, easy inexpensive non permanent, all you'd need is some scissors and tape.
Our nose window, air just doesnt move around it, everything else can be bone dry and waters running down it. It has an inner channel, was always going to insert a piece of plexiglass to see if it'd help-just never have.
Spacer- something like foam pool noodles to keep mattress away from wall?
Ya that was my only real intent- seams like an easy work around but If you got called on it, though I cant imagine getting cited with a misdemeanor, it might surprise some not knowing the line they actually are crossing. In all honesty this was a plan of mine also till I looked it up- just an FYI
I'm glad to see some counter the idea of duplicating plates. The potential for a really bad day is huge. Cant imagine how this might seem like a good idea, but FYI-
Most states its against the law, period. While not intentionally pursuing fraudulent intent (just trying to assist LEO reading copy of legal plate), likely only get a warning but copying and representing as actual state issued plate possibly land you in jail and fined. Don't.
Falls under registration fraud, in CA its vehicle code 4463
As far as plate placement, my interpretation is visibility overrides fact its mounted on my 'cargo' and so move it from truck to camper.
On our camper you cant even see what color the plate is if left on truck when camper is mounted. I'm of the opinion folks who work in law enforcement have enough to deal with without trying to figure out where I'm from if they were curious. The fact that I've been doing this for the last 16 years and have never been questioned or cited only means that. Probably could have had it mounted on a propeller on camper roof with same results.
I cant address the lightning strike as in earth ground.
But on the 12v grounding, or 12v negative return, if mounted on truck likely its tied and is chassis grounded (NOT EARTH GROUND). Even unmounted likely chassis grounded, though possibly not designed as such battery negative probably can be be metered to/thru chassis.
most everything I'm aware of has a wired return on anything 12v, not relying on chassis-but frame is connected to battery negative. One source is the water heater, the other the refrigerator, what or where else unknown. I discovered this on ours hooking up light by door, routing ground wire behind screen door frame and light came on. Always assumed camper frame isolated on the 12v. Nothing you want to rely on, negative returns should be wired, though I utilize for the CB. But I'd meter if you think the frame isnt tied to battery.
East to west highways truckers are on 19.
North to south highways they use 18 ????? is that right?
Never heard that before, possibly -though have, at least our area, that 19 used for hiways, 18 for local traffic between commercial drivers.
Picture of ours getting ready to slide lower unit out to replace with a P/D converter.
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e178/AnEv942/cvb.jpg height=513 width=640
Once wiring disconnected the entire lower metal box slides out (Magnatec). With its big honking transformer that gets really hot. Ours is raised off the floor about an 1 1/2" so I only had slight discoloration of floor from heat.
I briefly looked around thinking might find pic of converter and where it might be, closest was picture showing something on front wall but had a funny panel, not sure. If camper has one you'd think it would pretty obvious, certainly easily accessible.
I used half a mirror arm mount bolted to about 3"x6 plate, clamping the roof rack.
Could not tell you why it works but it does. Electrically the rack is connected to aluminum frame so it is grounded. However I use small magnetic antenna so its only grounding thru the magnetic field. Not optimum but functions.
As far as ground 'plane' do not know whats its using. I assume its the height that compensates for otherwise poor mounting. Using everything underneath as the plane.
Most mounts the shielding sheath of coax also carries ground which is connected to base-typically mounted and its grounded.
OK that kinda makes sence- I've wondered when folks dicuss different requirements of batteries but Ive never seen mention of the what the truck supplies (unregulated as far as type etc as you mentioned). But then again I really don't if it matters for short term 'bulk' replenishment.
Couple of thoughts IF tapping alt as source doable, seems you'd really need to insure amp input limit to controller. Second as controller uses volts, the minimal(max) input of @14.4v or so from truck would convert to what seems like a very small amp conversion output?. Possibly less than panel output? Arr making head hurt...interesting though
What I found was that the batteries would stay around ~12.6v or 12.7v (possibly close to 12.9v after several hours of driving but would quickly fall back to 12.6v or 12.7v once parked for an hour with just a couple of LED lights on. ...
'Fall back? Holding volts of 12.6-12.7 on a battery (12v) thats not connected to a charge source after a given amount of time, hour or so is ideal? Are standing volts for (2)6v batts higher?
Unless I'm misreading, sounds as though your expecting holding volts to be closer to highest charge rate?
When I installed the solar charge controller for my 60w panel it was on a cloudy day but the controller was still delivering 1 amp of charge. At first I was confused that the unit would never read anything above 1 amp but I think I figured out that when the controller is first installed it limits the amperage until the batteries have gone through a complete charge cycle. Because the days I was messing with the system were cloudy and it being winter, there wasn't enough time for the 60w panel to top off the batteries so the unit stayed at 1 amp, ....
No, the charge controller shows amp rate its delivering, whether limited by solar out put or sensing that's all batteries need, but likely as cloudy all panel could muster. 60 watts max on a good day 4.5-5 amps
adamis: ..The controller indicated that at 12.6v the batteries were only about 60% full so it appears that my batteries had not been topped off even while on the road. ...
That's odd, 60% at 12.6v
adamis:...However just yesterday I was at the truck that had been taken out of indoor storage and the batteries were fully topped up from the trickle charger they plug in for me and the batteries are now showing 13v and 100% charge...
Real reason for me chiming in- how long AFTER disconnected from charge source was it showing 13.v?
adamis:..Back to the reason for my post though is that I need to put a charge controller between the truck and camper batteries. Instead of installing a second controller I'm considering having the toggle switch to select the source of power going into the controller I already have.
Well I really do not understand what the purpose is here and obviously missing something. Ill reread post but I do not understand the desire to regulate the trucks input, it already does?. Multiple input charge sources work fine with each other, they all 'read' the batteries not the other charge source. Though off hand its sounds as though truck and camper batteries are still tied together when truck shut off? Unsure what solar controller would make of the input from alternator, less so the truck seeing charge controller instead of battery.
Truck should charge its battery(s) and with no load send enough to camper (even with smallish factory wire) with nothing really running to also charge it.
With no load solar should get camper up to near full charge. With both, on the road, batteries should be charging, both truck and camper. If not then you have a problem.
The fix purposed, if it worked which I cant see what it would do, doesn't address whatever the real issue is. At worst I see recipe for magic smoke, at best is its thick enough to mask the problem.