Ive seen a couple of those with campers. First one I saw at Meteor Crater, oddly he was from this area of CA. First utility bed I had ever seen with the "skin" and was pretty taken with it. Nice though added weight of the utility box might issue for use with camper, at least for me. Then again I couldnt get past cost. But it would be nice.
Simple constant duty solenoid, triggered by ignition- key on (w/manual switch so you can disable if/when wanted), is what many and my self included use. Your favorite auto parts. A quick search of the forums would show many installs.
This thread 3rd pic shows solenoid http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/26528959.cfm.
Plan B is your best option- testing to determine. Even IF standard doesnt mean PO adhered.
Normally brake & signal fed by same wire, 1 for left (Yellow) & 1 for right (Green). Tail/running lights 1 wire (Brown), & one for ground which typically is white.
Though you said black & white are 'large' and usually charge and ground are same size.
Doubt red is brake aux, (truck camper) possibly if wired thats charge line input or back up if you had.
Those 3 red/black and white are the ones that likely need tracing/testing
Not knowing exactly what your looking at my first thought is auxiliary battery would need fairly heavy connectors & wiring. Access to plug in charger (or solar panel w/controller) could be quite a bit smaller.
If Palamino has 'port' that you think would work for both Id contact them. They may offer source. There are a lot of remote battery charging/jumping posts available. remote terminals..
Sources on Ebay
Different types of quick connects quick connect
Pre made panles bit expensive. IT may be simpler to hard wire an Anderson connector for the aux battery. (or other type of plug rated for use)powerpole-accessories
Found this pic on www.truckcampermagazine.com/news/tcm-exclusive-2014-palomino-rv-announcements
Nice panel..other than the box, remote battery posts linked above. Think Id want it somewhere protected, definantly a kill switch and fused. Lil overkill for connecting solar or external charger.
For small solar panle simple 2 pin SAE connecector would work, or low amp charger (not for battery) similar to SAE connector
I assume the as built weight sticker has been removed? Summerwind was pretty good at giving real weights. The brochure weights, dry or wet, still reflect camper with NO options. Elec jacks, AirC, awnings, microwave, generator etc. Though 1000# seems high on 811. That would include tiedowns etc (diesel fuel @~7# per gal)what you load with camper. Bottom line though is scale weights.
We seriously were looking at a S/W 911S-really nice camper, but the real optioned out weight numbers put it out of our range. But it was an expected 3500# plus gear, Your 811 weights kinda puzzling. Irregardless if thats what it weighs...its addressing
Too color, 'warm white' closer to incandescent in color.
Yes there have been some general improvements in LED tech, but doesn't mean applied across the board. Not all will tolerate the varying voltages (high) seen in campers. As to varying brightness with regulated LEDS, Ive never noted any difference with normal voltage fluctuations, I dont think you would?
Im unsure about a failed LED cause for concern with fire? Similar to a blown fuse, burnt/overdriven emitter ceases to function. Earlier unregulated non-smd bulbs I had tried got pretty hot though nothing near incandescent (till they failed).
Man thats a lot of sink...
As too the stepped drawer, I built one. Seemed obvious to utilize space, however its proved problematic, though ours is shorter the last half or back end. In your case being side shorter simple dowel might alleviate?
That said, depth of drawers. Are there other shallower drawers, for kitchen stuff etc? Deep is nice for storage but for item retrieval shallow easier. I understand the material reuse, but seems top drawer would be more usable as 2. Appreciate the T slides but they do use up space.
Know 1st response answer if I suggested smaller sinks to Margaret but I 'think' she'd rather have work/counter space and easy to use drawers. Just an observation.
Not so sure-I'll be the devils advocate, $750 while a good price compared to new it is 3 years old.
Not so cheap that I'd be jumping out of my chair, it wouldnt sway me not getting new, IMO. Its out of warranty (3 years) though may last for ever. The 15hours-maybe honest-but 750 lot of coin.
I didnt really look but found one for 899 free ship which is what Id be comparing against-
Problem with the Torklifts app. guides they do not list the arms and the mounts separately, part numbers are for both. Generally its the mount thats unique. Your fronts should be same (arms) rear- one variable is hitch. but
I will say this when I switched factory receiver (01 F250) to super hitch, I also ordered new rear mounts. The arms were the same as my old ones (and same as used on fronts) only the mounts attaching to the hitch was different.
but a call or note to Torklift should verify.
There are many companies that make RV/marine windows, single/dual pane, fixed/slider in about any configuration you need. ie, dont know anything about them but just one,http://www.rvwindows.com/products/rv-elite-dual-pane-windows-series-1800/.
Likly also be ordered thru most RV mfgs, in PJs case as rebuilding camper, replacement shoudnt be hard to find-they are not cheap.
Which some have retro'd their own quasi dual pane rear door window.
KKELLER14K for one, its in the TCU thread/exterior section. If I had a problem with our door windows I'd try that, but we dont. I assume the simple door seal/door construction leaks enough air or cold enough to keep fairly dry as its the window that has least condensation.
On the round to it is our cabover window, its the worst 'water generator'. There is a flat flange that I will seal a piece of plexi to, think it'd help. I had the opportunity couple of winters ago, because there is an actual secondary flange that would accept a second window, I always thought if/when removed id make semi dual. However it was when we used to get rain so I didnt spend the time needed. Ive not seen any long term results if these attempts help.
If though I was to spend couple of hundred (not) Id opt for the Edwin opening window, velcro some foil bubble ins. for winter use.
I would make a suggestion. 1 the fuse and 2pin plug- my rec would be a simple pvc juction box. Similiar to this-any hardware store, they can be had blank or threaded knockouts. Hole drilled in bottom to match solar plug location in roof, maybe offset to ensure enough cable. (& future ant coax?). I mounted with mounting screws inside of the box instead of exposed 'ears'. Side knockout with gland (could just caulk out). Just see both subject to corrosion laying there, also though you said 'cap' would offer protection, plus cap removable to access without disturbing any sealant etc? but you may have on the round toit
Second is the size of fuse-where did 10amp come from? Nominal on sunny day you potentially (hopefully) could surpass 10 amp, but fusing should be based on the short circuit rating of panels (5.75 amps x1.2=6.9a, twice=13.8amps?) While for protection smaller could be considered better but as this on the roof...
Absolutely awesome- Looking back you were in the process of reassembly. End of August into Sept must have been a whirlwind of activity in the shop. Pretty impressive, I wouldnt have taken odds she'd be ready for maiden trip mid of Sept. Even if only by update pictures-what you had left and the always invariable last minuets gotchas. Which sounds you had a couple.
Appreciate the update-
Though pictures of the last stages of reconstruction/ finishing efforts of this project would have been nice-
apparently last post suggests you indeed finished and used...
So whatever happened? Curious
If you cant get the lengths/bends in a one piece simply 2. Manual shows both a straight or 90° connector available to adapt muffler to tail pipe, but doesnt show tail pipe extension.
• Exhaust kit elbow 90 degree (P/N A041H694)
• Exhaust kit downtube (P/N A041L816) 5.75" lg
Manaul shows the above which are flanged down tube connectors. With a straight down tube then add section with 90°.
However available 'kit' 155-2325 shows a split clamp on- what it doest show is if it clamps directly to gen or to downtubes above (which I suspect is case-extension clamped to bolt on down tube)?
All the above illustrated or linked here
Possibly if Onans are supplied by camper mfg-inquire to them for needed parts?
Ya, if a good number of our lights didn't work it'd bug me too. Especially since you seem to have a fair idea where break might be, trying to remove the interior paneling due to possibly damaging (matching near impossible) wouldn't be my first thought. Sometimes though trying to minimize work creates it.
Some good ideas, severla ways to address but 'Jumping' the bad section does sound easiest if you can get to it. The wire cover/raceway Ive used in a couple of places.
One in bath where I added light switch (was out side behind door) couldn't get across due to rafters. Not sure, with what looks like fold down bunk room, assume porch light is in area by door above window you have room on wall but from to ceiling fixture would where you cant 'tuck'.
Noted the brads into corner trim-also missing trim side of door over what appears seam in paneling all the way up, been off before? If porch light close enough snake wire from light over to door & up. If hot wire, at least as Im gathering is running TO porch light then on, it could be accessed by removing the fixture, snake over, IF you could pull paneling loose a tad. But you said it wasn't working either, short? The old wire at ceiling light running back to porch light obviously would need to be disconnected, abandoning as mentioned.
Then again couple of screwdrivers, small flat pry bar- start dismantling, Probably have it open in couple of hours..
•Well the dinette likely just screwed 1xs/paneling, but your closer to it than me, probably require disassembly verse getting out as unit.
•Very unlikely you can get paneling off with window still installed, yes window surface mounted, sandwiches the wall.
•The lil round brown rim (welting, gimp, beading) generally stapled to one surface.
• really need to resize the pics, but just judging by the wrinkling shown you may end up with something that you might not get back together. Or be in for more than bargained?
I am the last person to voice what might be practical but Im really unsure about the effort. You first said porch and dinette light, but then mentioned 'entire right side'. What lights are involved.
Is there anything on that circuit that does work? Or pulling fuses identified circuit. Assuming youve done some troubleshooting.
Not sure about running satellite signal thru a switch box (I am assumeing the 'Dome' is satellite?), but I wouldn't interconnect to OTA/cable system. If your TV has multiple inputs that would be better. Sat box direct to TV (via HDMI or what ever it has), separate new RJ6 from box to Satellite.. Most newer TVs let you select signal source.
Coax for the OTA/cable signal.
As to the power outlet/booster depends if you are keeping/adding OTA antenna that uses amplifier (Winegard etc). If yes then yes, youll need to keep.
Lastly, removing the RJ59 cable signal feed-it is sufficient for cable if you happen to be staying someplace that offers cable.
Though you could upgrade the RJ59 coax for both cable/OTA dont know you would see any better reception, maybe.