No work here-just an excuse to visit.
Have you followed up on any of the part numbers shown on the page you linked, I didnt see any of the tanks your looking at. What I did find
are dimensionaly differnt-I think a call is in order to see if you can get what your wanting?
lp tanks at Dyers shows the small ASME permanent mounts
#6813 5.5gal 10" dia x 23"+ that would fit Drawing PDF
#6814 7.9gal its also 10" dia but at 32"+ it wont fit Drawing PDF
It does get old...I thought it was just me but seems at every turn...
It is one thing to repeatedly interject your opinion on what some one should do or what they should use, Even when the topic is about something else. Starting a new thread with the title as you have, and your conclusions (on a product you have not used) has no value and less point other than stirring the pot- which is the only thing I draw from your post. Why?
It IS good to hear the opinions on products, helps everyone, but
I am not seeing the positive aspect of this- at all.
'course probably a deficiency on my part. Sometimes things just strike me odd and regretfully make some off hand comment in my responses, and I try (& fail). It seems though reading many of your posts you dont, or do not realize there is someone at the other end of the spectrum with your blanket comments. ?
Well, I wouldnt take as gospel-just 2 guys shootin the chit but. I stopped by the RV shop. Wish you had someone local as knowledgeable and willing to share what they know. Quite of lot of information-I explained circumstances and asked questions from as many prospectives I could think of. Bottom line though, pretty much what others have outlined.
Basically when OPD became law, older non OPD tanks, regardless of configuration could not be refilled. Because of valve/tank internal plumbing, older horizontal tanks couldnt be retro fitted, specifically horizontal hard mounted tanks. Needless to say this required folks to replace tanks to comply-and at rather a large expense. Enough of a clamor was made that the law was changed approx. a year later.
Fixed mount horizontal tanks were made exempt from the OPD valve requirement though they still need to follow recertification guidelines. This was the initial source of confusion when refilling an older OPD exempt tanks (and still is).
Newer OPD horizontal DOT approved tanks must be refilled in vertical position. Kinda stuck there. He was unaware if there are any specialty tanks that might conform. ASME tanks which might work being different, are expensive & heavy can be filled horizontal. Practicality of mounting ASME in a TC not simple as far a retro fitting.
He couldnt really make a suggestion, other than trying to find re-certifiable older non OPD tanks. He did mention even if, refilling on a TC would be problematic at best. Either due to interpretation of OPD requirements, physical location and or restraints. (hes got assorted fittings allowing to fill 'almost' anything but still they are pretty good size)
He also mentioned, refilling a tank on a TC due to the confines is not something he would do if he had a choice. I didnt pursue why. Nor did I asked about current MH etc.
We did briefly talk about frame mounted to truck. Extensive as far as body mods. Something I might seriously look at if I needed to change stuff but might be prohibitive cost wise and quantity might be limited. Learned a lot but only relaying what I found, even though it doesnt help.
Well I dont know a lot about horizontal tanks- Ive only had 1, on a camper van -hard mounted & it was filled in place. That said looking around Im not sure ALL horizontal tanks are meant to be filled horizontal- but I only looked around briefly. Also not sure on the price recertification justification (though pretty sure thats not the motivation to convert). However my last 2 recerts, a year apart was $10.00? A new replacement horizontal tank considerabley more I would think.
IF you can get a tank thats designed to be refillable horizontally I would think more likey done by techs if the tanks could slide out at least half way. The inside semi enclosed cabinet seems 'might' be issue.
In my eye the mechanical part, assuming stacked on tray will pass door height, the easy part. Modifying the tray to accept bolting bottom tank and accepting /designing saddle for second tank, so both tanks mounted to tray. Verifying affordable tanks can be purchased to hard mount and can be refilled in place take a bit of research.
Im going to town tomorrow. Ill ask at local RV shop if they would refill on board tanks or their thoughts on your desire. They also work on RVs so might have some valid input. If I make to other side of town-theres another shop-thats all they do is refill tanks-simply get their opinion on refilling.
Hmm made me think of questions more than answers-
The ground wire should be at least wire size of the charge line. You didnt mention if you upgraded charge wire size.
By tailight ground I assume using the ground within the trailer/camper plug?
IF the solenoid you added breaks the hot charge line (didnt say if you added new charge wire or are interupting existing line) your good.
If existing or prior line still connected and not controlled by 'solenoid' then, depends on whether or not your truck kills power when off? Assuming your truck doesnt or added solenoid to get more charge?.
Yes the one at floor is the propane detector. As propane falls if its not also going into alarm I suspect NOT propane issue, especially if tank closed & after a week. UNLESS you are smelling gas.
The one above is the CO, dont know why its going.
On edit though oct to feb could be the batteries...
Our propane detector loudly sounds off once when batteries are turned on or off but I dont recall it sounding with low battery, possibly, others could chime in if theres does. Either case- unsure why opening/airing out causes CO to stop alarming. Added carpet/paint new plastics that might be outgassing particulates? Again I would check the date on CO detector-might not solve, often does, but if old Id replace just out of course...can be bought most hwds. Ones with a meter are nice.
Smoke detector only other thing I can think of that will chirp on low batts
Yes #2, also assume you meant the propane detector?. But the 'within hours'? If it takes that long to air out surprised your making it to the vent to open (if its actually propane thats causing detector to sound off). Ours is tied into camper battery-if it gets low starts chirping. If it is the CO detector, leaking propane normally wouldnt set it off. Other question is do you leave the propane tanks turned on when in storage?
Our CO detector has its own batteries-again they get low and it starts chirping. Also the CO detectors have a life span-as they get older seems more likely to go off. Should be dated-hopefully not 1998
Closed & covered many things can set off the detectors- but I wouldnt take lightly.
#3 Available just finding a source,anotherhttp://www.rockler.com/wood/edge-banding
Oh-noted join date- welcome to the forum..
Yes your link Reddog1 takes to page 4, top of page, not to a post... I didnt know you could even do that-link to a page, or how you did it? Unless you copied the url from browser nav bar-curious could be handy..
wvabeers link to surviving picture in thread (an on page 4),
Clicking the link button (preceding the 'quote' button) on any post within a thread will generate the code to take you directly to the post, though unlike the quote button that opens the editor with the quote pre generated- you have to manually copy&paste it to generate a link.
Kinda drifting away from OPs post. I need to come up with something (short of fixing bracket bolts, round toit). Since I added homemade wobble stoppers I have less than ¾" between fenders and brackets-where as before as long as I was between fenderwells I was good. All I had to watch was camper floor at left fenderwell making sure rear bump out box cleared tailgate pillar. Easy peezy now a royal pain.
Ya know if Jay unsuccessful, and you had time to kill and really wanted to the older style are cut out of SST bar and welded to the handle mech.
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e178/AnEv942/Torklift%20f250%20driver%20frame/tlwinhandl.jpg height=480 width=640
Be some work on a rainy day..but could end up with the winchester style and benefits of newer handle..
Be interested in 'improvements' on your hitch.
... Most try to grasp the handle instead of sticking fingers thru the holes. .
I guess I didn't ever think there were people that would do that.... makes sense why the design changed - to protect people from their own stupidity.
I agree that people need to be protected from their stupidity but now it's time to change the packaging and literature to protect me from my ........
Well I ... I uh meant... I mean Ive heard.... or I read somewhere- :R
...but it does smart..
The only reason I can think of why the old design still shown is because of the uniqueness- not justification but from a sales prospective trying to keep an association link to the 'original' fastgun. (without actually supplying). Wonder IF the old handle can still be ordered?
Thats odd. I just went to get pictures showing the 2 handle styles..the banner changed since yesterday...(edit...they do listen!)
top new/bottom old style
...I might mention something here. The tank materials are soft. They are made out of milk jugs...
Enjoying your thread(s). This comment though, you made about tank material seemed like an opportunity to ask about the grey tank support, and the battery 'tray' on top. It could be Im just not clear on how its working but as this progresses still leaves me wondering. Especially after seeing the picture of the batteries on top.
Its the single support mid of tank. Though the tank material is malleable, it can split. Maybe given the length and height it will be ok. Then picture of batteries on top brought it to the forefront again.
The weight (if tray actually setting on top) adding to the point loading at the mid tank support?
Most questions or puzzlement, wait long enough and you addressed (ie. the perfectly placed knot on rear structure). This one just kinda buggin me?
...I've tried in past to Teflon tape these types of joints and haven't been happy with the results. I much prefer the feel and result of brush on pipe dope for these tank fittings...
In all the pictures, the different cans of glue etc have no problem jumping in front of the camera, however the pipe dope seems to be camera shy. As you didnt mention only asking. Not sure on the tank material but the PVC threaded connections, regular pipe dope not intended specifically to be used on plastic threads can lead to failure, NON pressure less likely. Just curious and for other readers. I dont want to side track, threads and sealants can lead to a whole topic on its own.
Not anything I could say that would make you appreciate what you received but...
As too the handle, they haven't used the winchester style in quite awhile, maybe couple of years. Im unsure why they have not changed the banner at top of page that shows the old style-but all the actual product images show the new style. the why- The old style handle it is very easy to get your fingers pinched between the handle and fastgun body, it smarts. Most try to grasp the handle instead of sticking fingers thru the holes. Mine are the old style, while they sorta look cool they are actually rather awkward to use.
On the hitch powder coating- not sure, if that bad vendor should have been contacted-though thru amazon likely you would have paid return shipping to warranty. Im not a fan of powder coating. But on the mounting-while anything could be improved I doubt the bolts are going to pull the 1x2 3/16" flat bar thru the frame holes. However I also thought about reusing the factory top bars, (they span 2 bolts on mine) and possibly reusing the factory Ford bolts, redrilling the hitch. Never did. I still have my factory hitch & hardware.
On the tie down mounts, Yes the interference fit is very loose. But myself I really wouldn't want any tighter. I dont leave them on truck when camper not on, however I have another pair I keep on the truck when camper off that I use for side steps into bed. They can rattle a bit off pavement.
The rotational pull you noted, at first concerned me,seemed odd but never been an issue. Generally you want greater pull angle on the tiedowns, that said, if your comfortable with the angle you could use them centered.
Again not trying to tweak your opinion, only my observations. Ive never bought anything that didn't cause me to ponder 'what the heck' and fix or modify. Torklift products though, for me, closest out of the box happy with what I received and felt I got my monies worth.
Compared to other mfgs and what is sold no comparison. But thats a personal opinion- if your not happy, your not happy, which is a bummer cause they dont give the stuff away.
Going to state the obvious...but to remove the AC generally the inside shroud/control unit is removed (some not needed) to access the bolts going thru inside ceiling pan into Roof unit.
I wouldnt think so on a factory install but often the gasket is 'glued' on with adhesive/caulk, making removal a bit difficult.
I would think if compressor is leaking oil youd see with outside shroud removed? Not to say it isnt leaking but our roof gets pretty slimy if I havent washed in a while.
Overhead doors, possibly some spring load assists?
Usually about $6
Odd, thread over 1 1/2 years old and hadn't slipped into archive.
If nothing else glad it prompted you to join and respond-welcome to the forum.
Yes among many other things, obviously bad batteries can be a source of non starting generator. Last thing you want to do, though simple task, is drop generator- everything possible needs to be ruled out first, and as with anything-start with the simplest. Due to the layout as noted, unfortunately you cant get very far when testing the gen without dropping.
Hopefully that wasnt read into this-that dropping gen should be done without verification of the more likely scenarios. Bad/loose connections, battery, starter contactor(solenoid) etc. Or simple corrosion on the exposed spade connectors to gas solenoid, thats a periodic/annual thing. If I don't hear the solenoid click-go clean the connectors. This was only offered as a workaround for a failed board. Ours has been working flawlessly since the 'bypass', but year & a half later the board is still bad.
Curious, While I have some healthy NI-CAD battery packs that are 25+ years old by religiously cycling, I had not heard before anyone applying that to lead/acid deep cycle battery. Glad it works for you- but not something I'm going to try though might research. Interesting