Generally yes- you are correct. Most campers the jacks are powered/connected directly to battery(s). They dont run thru inverter/charger- but most will run better as your simply replacing or offsetting what the jacks are drawing-
Why when one battery removed they don't work is a puzzle-but many variables or coincidental issues that might be contributing and not considered. Why trying with charge source and one battery has no effect is even more a puzzle. My first thought is just not enough reserve- if 'test' was done after removing the bad battery likey the other battery was drained. Trying to think how battery wireing could /might cause this but cant see it. Dont know what 'big boy' jacks are, cant imaging they'd draw enough amps to stall, at least briefly should work. Meter on the battery might be interesting. Curious
umm-my opinion is doesnt make cents to spend thousands to accept a job unless this were long term. An older MH no matter how good of shape its in today- is still a mechanical unit that could potentially cost a lot/ and or simple aggravation of maintenance. I'm just looking at risk. You have a truck. Id opt for a trailer, least inexpensive temporary housing. Newer ones could be had cheap-easily resold. Though again depends on time.
Unless this is transition to MH (though a 20? year old) seems another can o worms, and it seems you have enough already open?
All 4 at the same time, on one battery? thats a lot of pull. Though there are other reasons to have 2 batteries, least of which I think would be to drive jacks?
Before I added our second battery jacks would work on 1 (though I only power 2 jacks at a time). I only use jacks with a charge source, truck running on shore etc. they will grunt otherwise-lifting.
Also, my truck does not have a rear sway bar. I am not convinced that a larger one would make a huge difference if you already have one but if you don't, consider one.
Just FYI- On our 2001 F250 the camper package included front & rear sway bars- however the rear was less than ~3/4" diameter (0.728). I swapped in a take out from another F250, which was closer to 1 3/16" (1.174)diameter -less than half an inch increase but was night and day difference in sway control. In sway bars it is the diameter of the bar that matters.
Simple pop rivets. I replaced ours, if doing both sides dont do as I did and drill them all out to replace-do only one side at a time-
I pulled the plates to clean up, not really needed but they would not set back flush due to corrosion/rust. If only replacing a few-just clamp & rivet.
Wire would come off relay to the input side of the diode then to camper.
The light would be connected to the output side of the relay, same location as wire going to diode. Then other side of lamp would go to ground.
There should be no power then on the output side of the relay.
Oh... I was also confused, as connection at output of solenoid is also where aux batt connection is. But it sounds though as suggestion is a diode Inline on the feed wire to aux batt from solenoid? Then anything (light) hooked between diode and solenoid would only see power from truck when solenoid engaged.
Likely need a heat sink for a 40 amp diode and an isolated place to mount.
Actually not a bad idea-seems a bit of effort just to 'see' charge functioning, though thats all my amp gauge does.
But inline diode would also solve any backfeed from camper to truck battery when solenoid engaged. Which in my case because I have a manual switch, is when I stall truck or something, solenoid is on, truck batteries lower than camper that camper will send power-but its only for a minute at most until alt gets up to 14+.
40 amp diode
diode w/heat sink
Unless Im also still misunderstanding and muddying the waters further.
Fused at wire rating-
mine, 10ga, is fused at 30amps-never blown a fuse.
Batteries are not going to 'pull' higher amps.
What youve planned should work.
I would though recommend adding a toggle switch to the ignition control wire feeding solenoid. So that you can manually disable/enable.
I dont engage mine until Ive been driving a while after starting-my primary want is truck charges its batteries-then camper. I have an amp gage on my aux charge line - after starting, if solenoid is engaged, Ive seen the reverse flow camper to truck, but only within the first few minuets after starting.
We have the Torklift Glow steps, with the 8"x20" treads-double bar construction can not say enough good about them, especially compared to our old 6x18 set of scissor steps.
Mounting would be only concern with your setup, unsure, may not be issue.
Ours are not hardmounted- I set them up when setting up camp. On the road I use the flip over step and small stool.
Kenmore use to make one at 9 7/8". There are a lot of small ones but more about 10 1/4". Refine your search by cu.ft. ( 0.7, 0.6 ) to less than 1. tons will come up. They will also be small in watts, 700.
Or visit your local kmart, home depot, wallmart etc, sometimes drug stores will carry tiny m/ws. IE Danby makes a coupl at 10 3/16".
You may want to relook at your cabinet- if the opening is 9 3/4, can you remove to install or cut cabinet or face trim. Also some of the ones that are meant to set on counter have removable feet (or pocket your shelf).
Did some looking around- yes you potentially have 3 tanks, as your monitor (not mentioned in this thread) shows, hence folks are not understanding your question. I also had never heard of this feature.
What I didnt see, except in reference on an FR pop, was how to drain. In that thread there was mention of having to use some kind of adapter? Is there any thing else in the dump compartment?
A quick call to FR might be simpler-Searching the FR forum possibly.
Someone else must have this-extra galley only tank and know how to drain- (just havent read the thread.
I think this may have been what trailgranny50 was describing-I was thinking of the direct hose connection like our old MH that didnt have a grey tank. But if you search 'galley drain' on the fr forum under the plumbing sub forum in the tech section-all kinds of threads relating to this. And as many issues.
galley drain site:forestriverforums.com
Knowing the height number is a good thing..
I think its the custom bed, the rails being so much shorter, factory rails are about even with the bottom of truck door windows. Does make it appear taller than I think it is.
Ours is more like 18" back.
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e178/AnEv942/ourelkhorn/pb080045s.jpg width=480 height=600
Never noted a problem, or wished it wasn't as far as access. Stand in front of your kitchen refrigerator, I doubt you get much closer.
Margaret likes the "shelf" in front, does the open the door, set the bag down to load refer. I cringe- to her glee Ive not been able to figure out easy way to time the door so it snaps back shut after 3 seconds.
Surprised no ones suggested trying to reestablish air gap? That and flushing. Couple of threads in the TCU under appliances.
The pressure/ temperature relief valves do fail or stuff gets lodged on the seat, sometimes opening, letting the handle snap close will seat. Sometimes not. But sometimes, though Ive not experienced, if no air pocket in tank, as water wont compress, pressure can cause valve to weep.
They are generic standard valves but many RVs use 1/2" threaded base, which isn't so common and can be hard to find localy at a hardware store.
EDIT: I type to slow..
Holy Cow AnEv942!!!! That is very impressive!!!
I am definitely going to look into modding the cabinet.
I have another question. If two 6 volt batteries rated at 220 AH stay the same when doubled to 12 volt what happens when they are quadrupled?
Will 2 130 AH 12 volts double to 260? If so, it sounds like 2 12 volts would be better than 2 6 volts. :h
And as was brought up earlier, if 1 of the 6 volts fail I'm dead in the water but not so with twin 12 volts.
Ha...ah 18 volts @220?
What I would do IF i had room minus the weight is run 4 6's- But thats why I went with 2 12s. There are many pluses running 6s but only 2 ? I dunno, my leds might run on just one.
Ya your cabinet looks really simple to change-but get your tape out and make sure itll give you enough room.
Hmm 2 1/2+ of squat in the rear. Least its not unloading by tape 0 on front, may be adding a few hundred. You need to look at other trucks to see what is different & (I think) your missing. But See how she handles on your trip.
Minimum Id go to your Ford dealer or local wrecking yard, pick up rear upper overloads (possible the spring pack), the frame stop brackets, the overload spacer block and longer u bolts. I assume you have lower overloads?
Some other solves
I went out and looked at my trucks tail lights- but its my camper. Hangs down a bit lower so removing taillights wouldnt do anything-still hit sheet metal. Yes, removing would get old-but for grins might be a worthwhile effort just to see. And for extended trip might be worth the effort, if it does anything.
What does the cabinet space measure without that battery box?
Sure looks like both would drop right in.
Maybe, if I removed the converter but I don't know where I would move it to.
I cant see what might preclude moving- wires not long enough or if it would be enough space or how much additional room you need, but theres a step in cabinet under stove, 3" rearward? You would need to swap around some of premounted stuff but simply cut the false wall and move it out. Just 1x1s and 1/8" paneling. Hardest part I see is reusing paneling and working with existing holes.
Cut wall reassemble with a piece of 1x4 and a few pieces of 1x1 or 1x2.Cut full height 1x4, attach 1x2 to its edge, reattach the face of moved panel to edge of 1x4 with the 1x2 behind original panel, reattach it.
But dont know if the 3" or so would give you room for another box. Pics may be deceiving, as other have noted, just looks like its close.
Only reason I could see not moving the wall (short of none of the wires would reach) is the stove right there. You might have to stand like Captain Morgan while flipping your hotcakes in the morning. Though would be less protrusive than an additional box?
Otherwise, except for the stove consideration, Id bump out- If it could be worked around, move some more stuff build a step. Likely would need new paneling or ply.
Then again Im looking at it from a few hundred miles away-probably have some horizon haze interfering with the view-looks simple from here, 'cause Im not seeing the details...
What is the 'Right here' cabinet butting against, looks like more cabinet-does it lead to where another plug is?
If theres another receptacle close, Id probably tap it.
Would be easy enough to pull output line from a breaker, route to small junction box, add a short piece back to breaker for feed, and a new line going to new receptacle.
Because of window proximity either adding ground fault or connected down stream of existing one might be good.