We dont have a quick connect but also got tired of carrying the small bottles decided I would add one. I kept running across issues folks were having (like yours) with different pressures/flows etc when researching that made me rethink. As both our bbq & shop heater have there own regulator I decided to use a tee (Camco 3 port 90° #59133) on high pressure side of the 20# bottle & I could let camper /shop external devices regulate. On camper its placed before its regulator. So far it works as intended.
More related to yours, one of the bbq issues I came across (more for back yard bbqs &bottles) is the OPD on the bottles themselves. While Ive never had this problem I've read that opening the valve on bottle quickly can result in the internal safety feature going into 'check'. This would be where you have a lot of line or open end, the valve thinks theres a leak. Its a safety thing that restricts flow. You have to shut everything down-taking pressure off the bottle and open slowly. This explainsOPD better than me. This linkeven better, under the towables section describes but also where the valve may not be fully open and not supply full flow to system.
Ive also read where the quick couplers on some RVs have there own regulator on them, I do not know which ones. But this might have been the RV net post you mentioned, thread I gather most of the hoses have a check valve in them-connected to a regulated port restricts flow. I dont know if this is case on Lance q/cs. Doubtful and even so I couldn't recommend clearing the check valve..
Possibly some Teflon partially blocking flow? Wonder if a propane shop can check flows/pressure on a camper?
Good Deal! I dont know why rv tstats are so prone to just quiting. I wouldn't call camper interior a harsh environment- though humidity & dust levels can get high-who knows.
Mute point its Fixed. Id be curious when you replace if any indication where that 3rd might go-less someone has an idea or knows. Doesn't appear to go back to heater-trigger to allow or disallow function on AC? Energize a relay to spin the disco ball when heater on?
Our also cycles briefly every so often. Doesnt hurt anything (less its due to leak) or your just dozing off.... We dont leave ours on. Adding an accumulator will increase times between cycles, plus have water on demand without running pump.
In theory tying the 2 wires at thermostat together, red and one of the other wires together, generally white, bypassing tstat, if t-stat dead, would cause heater to come on. However unfamiliar with 3rd wire, or why, pilot light-AC signal?
My hesitation is Ive read on some t-stats jumping while connected can blow them, I assumed on electronic tstats but yours & 3rd wire? Without seeing it-tracing out path unsure. I wouldnt want to tell you to do something that might cause magic smoke.
No reason to and I wouldn't cut wires at t-stat- there screwed on? but unsure which is the return wire. As there are only 2 terminals, R & W, I assume the black & white wires are tied together at the W or bottom screw. At heater tstat wires are the 2 blue ones, you have blue++++ to red +pos to tstat. The other blue wire has a yellow wire? hard to trace in picture, Im not going to say the white wire at tstat is same yellow wire connected to blue wire at heater. Confused why a 3rd wire? Its a 2 wire thermostat. Thermostat simply makes a connection between the 2 wire when temp reaches setting. testing should take all of 5 minuets
I am assuming your test light is polarity correct and red wire is hot.
Meter would be better but...Since you have a test light, place its clip on another ground source, not on tstat.
-Retest you still show power at red wire- small screw top left marked R terminal,
-then turn on tstat-test for power at other small bottom left W terminal (black/white wires).
If power shows up at W terminal tstat is ok. Problem in heater or wiring to it.
If power does NOT show up at W terminal continue, problem likly the tstat. To verify tstat is issue
-Loosen the small screw at the top left terminal marked R. Remove the red wire.
-Loosen the small screw at the bottom left terminal marked W and remove the wire(s).
Hold the ends of all wires together, It may take up to a minute for the heater to come on. If heater comes on the t-stat is at fault.
Simple inexpensive replacement fix. Done.
If heater still does not come on with wires at tstat manually tied together (or tstat tests ok). As you have power going to tstat, another simple test before assuming fault in heater or other issue is to test return wire from tstat to heater isn't broken or disconnected somewhere.
-disconnect the wires from each other at tstat if still connected
-Cut the crimped on caps off the blue wires at heater. (They can be reassembled with simple twist on wire nuts later). Test which blue wire is feed/hot to tstat, twist back together (I assume blue/red is hot)
One blue wire will always be hot, the other only when tstat closes.
-Test the other blue wire connection (I assume blue/yellow wire.) I should not be hot. Test the yellow (why is it yellow?), should be no power, reconnect wires togther at tstat (or turn on tstst if ok), power should show at yellow wire. If it does NOT show power and wires at tstat tied together you have a break in return wire.
Disconnet red/yellow wires from blue wires. Hold the 2 blue wires together-heater should start within a minute. If it does not come on problem is heater.
If it does come on then its the tstat return wire. Though you might retest tstat.
Depending on what test revel-If tstat is ok and/or tying wires together you never see power at the other yellow/blue wire AND touching the 2 blue wires together fires heater I would simply run a long piece of wire connected to the W terminal of tstat and connect other end to other blue wire in lieu of yellow wire. If it works means either finding break in return or rerouting a new return wire.
Well I cant add much more than Artum Snowbird with same truck and camper..
But as to the comment 'they' made, referring to staying back a couple of inches. When loading I stay back a bit, just enough so bumpers are not rubbing while lowering, maybe an inch. When camper is close to floor, then back up to make contact. Otherwise, bumpers wont slide against the coated bed, and Ive ripped them off couple of times. But when all is done, yes camper needs to be against front bulkhead.
On ours the camper bumpers extend 4", so camper can't hit the front bed rail. The SnowRiver bumpers are really that shallow? I also use a spacer due to Ford taillights will touch camper. I ended up removing rubber bumpers, install the spacer (1x4) on camper face then reinstall the bumpers.
Test it. absolutely no way to second guess what it might be for. Being taped suggests its hot, from truck, from charger, from another source? Then again?
If in all cases its not hot from truck or shore I still wouldn't connect without knowing where other end is. Could lead to something thats no longer in camper (live unconnected wire). Looks at least 10ga also suggests charge wire but heck PO could have it running to a power outlet-you just never know. Your Angler have bed access?, lead for an aux battery?.
Shouldn't be too many red wires to trace out?
They just pop in, could remove (power off) the motor cover to release from underneath and note wiring-
Ill spray with lube/ helps but I ALWAYS expect switch to stick so am prepared to bump in opposite direction using 2 hand 1 on each switch. Simply dont trust them. The housing just warp. Also lubing the plugs with some dielectric so worse case you can yank it, and to prevent corrosion.
They dont give them away-prices all over the map maybe because of the printed EXT/RET -picture of switch
Was doing some Saturday afternoon re-caulking, looked at the awning. I cant raise ours either before pulling out as its directly under the rear valance and requires holding out a bit. If I were to drill for secondary holes Id also add holes at the rafter ends, would allow raising before locking outward. Actually another set in arms would allow not extending as far when breezy and still have some slope-as this is primarily used to keep rain out. On the round toit, not sure if worth the effort, but if there Id probably use...
Might happen sooner than later-gotta a lot of down time as Margarets nursing a broken rib.
Film at 11:00
youtube video raising/lowering the Truckin' Awn awning......
Interesting, though never had a reason to look before. Metered email@example.com (solar cycle), turned off solar, ran fan to get down to about 13.3. Let set then checked at master disconnect. Turn off batteries, meter at camper side of disconnect, yes shows voltage but drop almost immediately to 4-3 volts then slows. Counting down same as OP. Turn back on then turn off noting second hand on clock-as volts drop so does speed, at minuet 3 it was down 0.20 volts @ 4min 0.10v at 5 min was at 0.05 volts-got tried of holding leads. Only thing that was on was lp detector-possibly radio standby. I would have assumed longer bleed down.
Yes battery draining due to parasitic load, and/or not receiving adequate charge - related in the fact weak batteries but different unrelated issues. Is truck only source of charge outside of shore power? You mentioned wire to alt- if on the small side you will see full voltage but its the amps you need and thats thru largest clean wire you can install. Don't forget you need good equal size ground wire.
I took the time to check our parasitic loads-just cause.
Turned batteries back on, meter @10 amp across disconnect terminals, turn off batteries so load now thru meter-drawing 0.05 amps, turn on light meter goes to 0.23 (8" florescent). Surprised me-parasitic loads only at 0.05a or 50 milliamp. Was always curious & assumed more.
Good deal! Sounds simpler- never tried raising before locking the rafters. Maybe I'll try that 1st, I was thinking of drilling the secondary holes so they weren't under as much tension.
Bobndot- I looked briefly when I checked your link but I didn't see one. Might make a good vid-but I don't have camera-and Id probably trip at least once or make might a good 'what not to do' :)
Though Ive never checked parasitic loads on the camper I imagine higher than truck.
A 3amp draw is a lot, would pull batteries down pretty quick, days , but I don't believe what your seeing is parasitic load. What your measuring "mystery volts" is residual power in system if battery(s) disconnected. Wont help you identify, well much of anything.
Mysterious maybe but why you don't start touching stuff on any electrical thats just been unplugged-you can still get shocked. Until that 'stored' power bleeds off. Though you may indeed have power 'leaking' thru converter- tested as I understand, isn't verifying that.
Curious Im going to go meter our camper-turn off batts & solar see how long it takes to bleed system down and numbers I might see. I'll also check that turning light on will bleed it off. Reconnect power see what the draw is to reinitialize system, (though our converter is newer I assume it will still 'power up'), and then turn off solar and check parasitic load between camper and batteries just to see.
I'm not assuming anything here but to measure parasitic draw of camper, meter between source and load, batteries need to be connected, unless your meter can provide that? With everything turned off pull one cable, I use neg. though on our camper I think i can check at master disconnect-hmm, meter (@ max amps)between battery cable & battery post.
My first thought was the PWM might have kept me from removing our furnace. Simply used way too much battery and when 110v still just obnoxiously loud. Our Atwood rated at 55 watts/4.6 amps, the fan roared.
At first the PWM sounds like it might solve both- turn down amp use and slow down so it doesn't roar.
Could be though to keep sail switch open might not be enough to make worthwhile amp wise or quieten? Though for $7 worth the try, but someone needs to do some testing. Other thing to consider is how much (if you can enough to matter) slow down and still draw enough air thru so as not to over heat the exchanger?
Id be measuring temps, amp draw & heating cycles and sheet metal temps of box before mod, Then check afterwards results. Especially box temps- as fan is what distributes the heat it also keeps the sheet metal cool (and why all the safety redundancy on the fan).
Doesn't apply bobndot, completely different beast. These Truckin'Awn are very manual, very mechanical. The release buttons (4)are simple spring steel clips that pop into holes when sliding poles apart. The spring loaded roller tube has no lock. When you unroll, or pull out awning the rafters (mid brace) inner an outer tubes lock into position when its fully unrolled. To raise the awning after extending you depress similar buttons on the upright arms and slide apart inner & outer tubes until button pops into a hole.
Oh- which other than as others have mentioned about the inner & outer arms tubes being clean, is before adjusting awn height, Are you releasing the rafter button when adjusting that arm? I also found alternating sides until fully raised helps-fully extending one arm makes raising the other arm that much harder-putting some twist on it.
Clips sewn in fabric? If still functional- could just sew new fabric onto old curtain (unless its rotting) or try some Rit dye?. Its so small remnant can be had pretty cheap. Ours you need to remove the track to get curtain off anyway, if clip strip good could remove and sew to new fabric. Stuffs pretty cheap though.
We use strips of the (dont know whats its actually called) non skid shelf liner, like sticky waffled rubber. Find almost anywhere, last couple of rolls we got from the dollar store in Morro Bay. Just laying on the floor. Keeps indoor/outdoor carpet from sliding. It & and the carpet easily removed. If carpet were heavy enough like boat carpet (ours wouldn't hold em) could use snaps.
Is this a factory awning? Sounds like our Carefree Truckin' Awn awning.
As I cant reach the arms to adjust, does require utilizing bumper. If it is, on the site linked there are links to the install/ usage instructions pdf files.
Edit link was to one of the pdf files
Looks good!. I might have added another piece of angle underneath the sill piece, stitch welded them together then notched over jack mount and welded to the upright corner. But what you've done appears it will work. I tend to overkill. How far back, looks like a 2x, go back?
Curious to see what you do for the door. Will you try to straighten the frame & use it and make a new door?
Suggestion-When you finally finish- looks like your on the downhill side-next project IMO would be supplementing the rubber snubber propane bottle attachment with something a tad more secure :)
I dont know if this might help. I was kinda amazed when $600 mentioned for a set of struts? so looked around- I gather more of a dealer item as I didn't find much. Some older threads here on the forum and at least one site shows 30.5" struts with camper side mounts for more like $450? (thats no truck brackets).
I did come across 'used' 30.5" struts at adventurerv.net. I don't know what 'used' means? if these are returns or what but $99@ might be worth contacting. I've bought a lot of stuff thru them. Other than that no endorsement
These folks, I never heard of, but show the set for $450.https://www.truckcampersupply.com/truck-accessories-cabover-struts
Link to adventurerv listing for 'used' struts.http://www.adventurerv.net/lance-cabover-315-strut-used-p-29545.html