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 > Your search for posts made by 'BFL13' found 2055 matches.

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RE: MC4 Solar Connectors. Good & Bad ??

The ones as pigtails on my 230 are aluminum wires so I cut them short and go copper wiring from there. Don't use the actual connectors like they have. Maybe you had UV damage?
BFL13 08/22/14 09:12pm Tech Issues
RE: Manual Charging

Here is the one I have that I did the mod to. Thanks BFL but where I have the present converter and MW mounted, tweaking a pot inside the unit will not be possible. No head room. Turning a knob on the outside of the unit is much easier. If I had bought the Iota, I'd try to make your way work but since I didn't...no big deal getting the adjustable one. . I adjusted the voltage to 14.8 with the tiny pot, put the lid back on and installed the unit where I can hardly get at it. I just reach in and grab its 120v plug and plug that into an extension cord from the gen. I could not use the external pot one where I have the mod 100, Would not see it or be able to reach the knob. Meanwhile, since that (repaired) mod-100 is now working so well, I have little use for the external pot 100 one, which sits around doing nothing. I already have a converter for floating at 13.8 (ok for winter here) I could toss the perfectly good 7355 and the mod 100 and my VEC, and just use the external 100 in a place mounted where I can get at it, but don't need to. Only got into this when the mod 100 blew its thermistor and I couldn't fix it, so they sent me the prototype external one to try out and report back on. Then that blew its thermistor too. Then I learned how to repair the thermistor (see that long thread from last winter) and got both working again. Now I have two 100s which was not the plan. I can't run both because the Honda 3000 can't handle two. Anyway, it's all too complicated. Fact is if starting from scratch, the adjustable 100 would be great as an all-singing , all-dancing charger/converter. Mena still has the Iota like I have the 7355, he has a VEC. So to be as good as me, all he needs is the cheapo 100 from boatandrv, modify it without breaking anything, and good to go! :) Or he can spend more money and try for a higher station in life! :)
BFL13 08/22/14 08:03pm Tech Issues
RE: when should a powermax pm4b drop into float mode

OK I see. So again the bottom line is we are not plugging in, we are not on the cord for weeks until we camp again, we are on gen, so...will the converters do what we want? You need to answer yes or no in the end and move on. Only thing that matters is where is sg and soc when you start and how long to get to full. Not being smart arse just think of it as hands off, as if someone else walked in, used it, ran it down, charged it up. Did the converter work and how long did it take? will the pm4b converter meet my needs? a resounding NO!!! how big a charger do i need to replace it, just for abs charging? apparently about 40amps. not bad for 4 days work, eh? (and bfl thought i was a slow learner! lol). For your "abs charging" as soon as the 75er drops to 13.6 you want to replace it with a charger that does 75 at 14.6 (NOT 40) Or you can modify the 75 to stay at 14.6 or move that up to 14.8. whatever!!!! Your 430ah battery bank will easily accept 140a charging instead of only 75 at 50% Just add some more chargers that go to at least 14.6 same as the 75. That will speed up the 50-70 part no end. Your only problem now is getting from 70 to whatever in shortest possible time. That would be by keeping the other chargers running at their 14.6 and replacing the 75 in the line up by a 75 that will stay at 14.6. Amps will taper from 140 to however far down you want. It remains that whatever you do amps will be down to about 20a at 14.6v when you get to 90% SOC (5a per batt) and about 8a when you are at 97% SOC (2a per batt) But you have a Trimetric AH counter so you can use that. You have all the info you need right here in this thread from several folks. You need to take the time to hoist all this in. Take a break, sleep on it, nobody's brain can work that fast. At least mine can't--I took months if not years to become such an expert. Oops DW seems to have another opinion on my progress made. :)
BFL13 08/22/14 07:43pm Tech Issues
RE: when should a powermax pm4b drop into float mode

RJXJ wrote: "NO! Mine took about 8 hours using my Quick Charger not my converter." (end quote) the 8 hour period was just a guess on my part. i was simply looking at how long it took the pm to go into float, after doing its 15 minute (obligatory) boost, as per its programming. originally i started with 14.6 batt volts. the pm started at 43a and dropped to 33a in 15 minutes. (perhaps this means nothing? --------- Of course it means something. Tt means you were on the graph (see the one for the PM100 and mod-PM 100) where the mod PM 100 was at 14.6 and 43a. That is where you were in SOC on your four batt bank (same as mine more or less) the battery bank would only accept 43 at 14.6---that tells you what SOC you were at. then in 15 min it went down the curve to 33a and then crashed to 13.6v and now it would only do that amps and taper from there. ------------------ and that's one thing i hope to find out by starting at a much lower SOC.) so i figured, the 75a pm might take 2 - 3 hours to boost. ------------------ You already know how long it will take to go from 50-78% SOC. That is 28% of 430AH = 120AH. At 75 amps constant, that will take 1.6 hours. ---------------- then i guessed the peak would take 4 - 5 hours to do its thing in abs. and, i would need time along the way to take readings. so i figured about 8 hours total with a 14.6v / 75a boost, and a 14.6/8?v / 40a (then tapering) abs charge. i guess time will tell. (no pun intended) Aargh! :)
BFL13 08/22/14 06:51pm Tech Issues
RE: Baffling slide/electrical issue

I need help diagnosing an electrical issue with my one of my slides and a fuse that keeps blowing. It started with my one of my slides not working (in which I became familiar with hand cranking it out for the first time) and at that time I had no blown fuse. I switched wires on the slide operating switch from the inoperable slide to the awning switch and it worked fine, so I assumed a bad switch. After a switch replacement proved not to be the problem, then the 15A fuse that supplies the operation panel starts blowing, and keeps blowing. So, where does this leave me? Slide issue or otherwise? It sounds like you messed up wiring in the new switch (as others above have hinted) Hard to know what applies, but I recently had to play with my slide not coming in properly and went through all sorts of things that might help here (or not). First thing is you can be sure your motor and slide are ok, because it worked when you ran it off that awning switch. You are now blowing fuses. I blew several (except I have a single big Lippert slide and it has spec for a 30a fuse.) The thing that blows the fuses is when the pos from the battery touches the ground (at the frame from the switch.) so the other thing is the switch has two wires on the slide side that must be joined then go to frame ground. Now the other thing is that the two wires that go to the motor change back and forth between being pos or neg for going in and out! (confused yet--too bad! everyone should have to suffer like I did! :) ) Now without a proper wiring diagram (which I didn't have because Lippert changed their wire colours since our 2003 trailer was built--(thanks a lot Lippert) you can easily get it to run in but not out or out but not in, and also for even more fun, you can get the pos from battery onto one of the two grounds on the slide side and blow the fuse one way or the other. It is hopeless unless you have a proper wiring diagram for the switch you have, whether new or old style switch--see Lippert website. I also cleaned up the frame ground on mine but that wasn't really the problem, although the new switch does now run the slide in and out no problem. I was worried about paying $550 for a new motor, but it was all just the silly switch. It seems the switches get "tired " after a few years and don't pass enough battery juice along to the motor wires.
BFL13 08/22/14 06:38pm Tech Issues
RE: when should a powermax pm4b drop into float mode

"i really need to see what kind of amps these things will accept just after the pm drops down to abs mode." You already know that!!!! :( The reason the pm dropped is because it reached 14.6 and amps taper from there even if the thing didn't drop to 13.6 ---once again---look at the ugly graphs, my goodness. No, 40 amps is not more than twice as fast on half the bank, it is twice as fast. Doubling the amps on the same bank does not halve the time. Doubling the size of the bank with the same amps doubles the time. Double the amps and double the bank and it takes the same time. See my ugly graphs, my goodness . :) Camping tactic to reduce size of bank and operate in the lower SOC zone where acceptance rate is higher is good as long as you stay over 50% SOC. That is what the 50-80 was invented for--faster charging. You still need to get to 100 every so often. Without shore power that means solar (can't run gen that long) Solar needs enough sun so location and seasons and daily weather in all seasons matter. Another way is to run on half the bank and sneak the other half into work while the boss isn't looking and charge up the batts with a portable charger, then sneak them out and back to the trailer.
BFL13 08/22/14 05:26pm Tech Issues
RE: Manual Charging

Sorry to hear your Iota is dying This one came with the rig. I have no idea what shape it was in when I got it. It started doing this from the get go. It still works, just not when it's 100+. I'll be keeping this one, thanks though. If it is true they will limit the external knob 100 to 15.5v then you will still be using the VEC anyway.Mine are a lot easier to get to 100% than yours. All they need is low to mid 15V. Not much time at that either. What I've noticed with the MW is that because it has more amps than my HF manual charger, it takes less time for EQ's and top offs. Pretty sure I'll be able to do it all with the Powermax. I had emailed Randy about the adjustable voltage PM and it was in the mid $200 range. Here is the one I have that I did the mod to. No sense getting a fancy PM4 if you are going to do the mod I did on it. I have doubts about the specs they give the PM3 here, sounds more like a PM4 but anyway, doesn't matter for the mod application. http://www.boatandrvaccessories.com/powermax-pm3-100-100-amp-converter-charger1.html
BFL13 08/22/14 03:38pm Tech Issues
RE: when should a powermax pm4b drop into float mode

I will have to answer that all later when have more time, but first off you can't speed things up by splitting the bank using the same chargers. If you have four batts and two 40ampers, you can put both on the four or one on each pair and it will take the same time because your charging rate is the same in each case 40 on two is the same percentage of AH as 80 is on four. the fastest absorption to follow the75 when it drops to 13.6 would be with a 75a charger that would start at the 14.6v and taper its amps down that curve the same as the 75 would have if only it had stayed at 14.6. Anything less than 75 will take longer. You can get a faster charge from 50-70 by using higher amps than 75. Just toss in another charger like a 40 and do it at 115 instead of 75. You still need to do the 70 on up while amps taper but you are starting tapering from 115 which just changed to 40 if that was the second charger's amps, so you can add some more chargers--the only limit is how much generator you have to run that many chargers at once. I'll get back to your scenario later.
BFL13 08/22/14 03:29pm Tech Issues
RE: Manual Charging

Indeed KJ! And thanks guys for the help. OTOH I never did get my old T-1275s equalized. Their cells are all over the place, but the batts are doing great. I just have a baseline for each cell which I keep score on. Oh well.I just think that's so weird. Are you getting the full 150Ah or have you measured less Ah? No the best capacity I got on the latest "10 hr" load test was 270 out of 300 but it is staying that good in service. Right now I am running only on the two T-1275s for a month with the four 6s disconnected for a well deserved break. :) I can't tell the difference daily with the four 6s "missing." Guess I have way too many batteries while on all this solar. I will toss in this reference to the equalizing test with that 100 I also included in reply to mex in another thread http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/26557259.cfm
BFL13 08/22/14 03:15pm Tech Issues
RE: Converter vs Battery charger

Time for me to wander around and check out "Randy" at Best Converter. Anyone who has the skill and drive to recognize Smart Chargers have flaws unworthy of their price, then devise a potential cure for the issue is deserving of a much closer look. Any helpful online links to look for? About the improved converter. The one that has been lobotomized? I had a couple threads on my prototype last year maybe in February or near then. Can't dig them up myself now, sorry. Even has pictures! :) OK here is one from when I first got ithttp://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/26557259.cfm
BFL13 08/22/14 03:08pm Tech Issues
RE: Converter vs Battery charger

Randy at bestconveter.com is releasing the manual Boondocker Deluxe this month that takes all of those problem or questions off the table. It's completely manual. The delay was to keep the rheostat from allowing greater that 15.5 volts. As soon as the new knob or dohicky is in, its available. Days not weeks according to best. I have one on order. Don't forget my old thread(s) on the prototype. Remember clamp on first before starting it, and no hot restarts. Be very interesting to see if there is anything about that in the owner's manual--assuming there is a manual. :) I wonder if they will have little markers around the knob for some voltages instead of you having to make your own. I am suspecting the 15.5v limit is for the sake of the in-rush thermistor. Note the specs for that voltage range in PowerMax's own website-- says it can go to 16 I would think its so you don't blow other DC stuff like Refer boards, incandescent bulbs etc if it accidentally came on at 16.1 Is that not a concern? 16 seems a little high. You could need the 16 to equalize. But the whole idea of the external pot is that it is owner operated, and it is his responsibility to know what he is doing. The PowerMax PMBC version goes to 16.5v according to the specs here http://powermaxconverters.com/pmbc12volt.html They also seem to have added a 120a version! Wheee! :)
BFL13 08/22/14 02:57pm Tech Issues
RE: Manual Charging

Side note, I just noticed that 80A only goes to 14V. Might have to get that adjustable Powermax instead. So, I can just let Vabs run till 0 amps with no shot of 15+V at the end to get it topped off? I use the mod 100 at fixed 14.8 but after that I use the VEC to do any topping off/equalizing. I imagine that external pot 100 will cost twice what the old PM3-100s cost now, but you have to take the top off the old one and twiddle the tiny blue pot with a tiny screwdriver and not blow anything up. Then put the top back on and leave it be. (or every time you twiddle it you have another chance to break that tiny thing) If it is true they will limit the external knob 100 to 15.5v then you will still be using the VEC anyway. I tried my external 100 set at 15.5 (highest mine will go) and it acted the same as the VEC pretty much, with amps about 4 starting off and then tapering. So about 4 is the natural acceptance rate for a pair of 6s at 15.5 I guess. I gather Mex wants one that you can set your 5% worth of amps on it and ease the voltage on up to keep the amps the same as the equalize runs on. Very hands on. These things I /we have can only do a constant voltage and amps will taper. Still, I have no problem getting the SG to baseline doing that with my 6s and I am nowhere near 5% amps at first and they taper. OTOH I never did get my old T-1275s equalized. Their cells are all over the place, but the batts are doing great. I just have a baseline for each cell which I keep score on. Oh well.
BFL13 08/22/14 01:01pm Tech Issues
RE: Top charge Mega Watt

All that fun is why I no longer use 27DC batts, but 6s. Like pulling teeth to get the SG up on those 27s.
BFL13 08/22/14 12:43pm Tech Issues
RE: Converter vs Battery charger

Time for me to wander around and check out "Randy" at Best Converter. Anyone who has the skill and drive to recognize Smart Chargers have flaws unworthy of their price, then devise a potential cure for the issue is deserving of a much closer look. Any helpful online links to look for? About the improved converter. The one that has been lobotomized? I had a couple threads on my prototype last year maybe in February or near then. Can't dig them up myself now, sorry. Even has pictures! :)
BFL13 08/22/14 11:47am Tech Issues
RE: Manual Charging

With my Iota seemingly on the fritz, I'm thinking about replacing it with an 80A version (Model S-1200-12) of my MeanWell from http://www.12voltpowersupplies.us. I've never done a fully manual charge before so I'd figure I'd ask here first. A couple things I'm confused on here is one, when do I know the batteries are ready for absorption? Does the absorb phase start when battery voltage reaches the chargers bulk voltage? How long do you hold absorb? Till amps start tapering? Thanks much. You know the batts are ready to start absorption when they start doing that! :) ie when amps start tapering as the battery voltage reaches the charger's voltage. Just pick a charger voltage (Vabs ) and let it run. You hold absorb for as long as you want depending on what SOC you are trying to reach. Longest would be when amps stop flowing, then drop to your Float. Most converters and automatic chargers stop absorption at about 97% SOC. The converters then stay on but drop to Float, while the chargers just shut down leaving the batts at 97% which they lie about, saying that is "full" (Strangely so does Trimetric have that same notion of "full" so beware) My modified PM3-100 is like that now. I set it for 14.8v Vabs. It runs the batts up to that and then stays there as long as it is plugged in while the amps then taper. If I left it on it would be still doing 14.8 forever with the batts full so I have to unplug it at some point of my chosing. Boatand rv had/has some older PM3-100s going real cheap compared with Randy's PM4s so if all you want is a 100amper that acts like my mod one, you can make your own same as I did. I don't know what the charger in the OP costs. Note the PM-100 is PF corrected if that matters to your gen. The classic manual charger has no setting for Vabs, it just keeps running the battery voltage up till it can't get it any higher. You have to be watching to make sure that voltage does not get too high. To distinguish them from that, there are "automatic" chargers which just shut off when battery voltage reaches a certain level, say 14.3v.
BFL13 08/22/14 11:41am Tech Issues
RE: when should a powermax pm4b drop into float mode

Your batts are fine as is, no need to reconfigure them. There's wrong with how you're using them. is it fair to say charging a 430ah bank will take no longer than a 215ah bank, provided the discharge in actual amp hours is the same and the charging parameters are as well? or do the larger banks simply require more charging time based solely on their larger size? No. You are flunking school! :) Slow down and study my ugly graphs. The same AH down on the big bank leaves it at a higher SOC where acceptance rate is lower. The smaller bank will be down lower in SOC where the acceptance rate is higher. Note that doubling the charging amps does not halve the time, but doubling the bank size with the same charging amps doubles the time. You have to say what SOC you are starting at, say 50%. Then you pick a charging amps. Same charging amps on the small bank is a higher charging rate (percentage of bank AH) than the same charging amps on the big bank. Where along the way in SOC you get before constant amps stop and tapering starts is all about the charging rate. Lower rate, the higher the SOC before tapering. But the higher charging rate on the same size bank is still faster because even though the amps taper sooner, they are still higher than the constant amps of the lower rate for a while until they both are the same from there on. It seems that you have the chargers you need, but are not maybe using them to advantage because you haven't been studying my ugly graphs (which I stole from a book for the idea but plotted them from my own recharges.)
BFL13 08/22/14 11:21am Tech Issues
RE: Converter vs Battery charger

Randy at bestconveter.com is releasing the manual Boondocker Deluxe this month that takes all of those problem or questions off the table. It's completely manual. The delay was to keep the rheostat from allowing greater that 15.5 volts. As soon as the new knob or dohicky is in, its available. Days not weeks according to best. I have one on order. Don't forget my old thread(s) on the prototype. Remember clamp on first before starting it, and no hot restarts. Be very interesting to see if there is anything about that in the owner's manual--assuming there is a manual. :) I wonder if they will have little markers around the knob for some voltages instead of you having to make your own. I am suspecting the 15.5v limit is for the sake of the in-rush thermistor. Note the specs for that voltage range in PowerMax's own website-- says it can go to 16 I would think its so you don't blow other DC stuff like Refer boards, incandescent bulbs etc if it accidentally came on at 16.1 Is that not a concern? 16 seems a little high. You could need the 16 to equalize. But the whole idea of the external pot is that it is owner operated, and it is his responsibility to know what he is doing.
BFL13 08/22/14 07:45am Tech Issues
RE: WFCO Converter Longevity

Another thing I'm a little confused about is deep cycle amp. charging. I was under the impression that these deep cycle batteries are not supposed to never get more than 40-45 amps when being charged with the exception of desulfation mode. This WFCO converter supposedly spits out 55 amps. Isn't that going to eventually fry my batts? Joe, the 55 (or whatever) amp rating of a converter refers to the DC output for powering your lights, refer, etc. It is not the charging current. Wrong There is one single output it will max at 55 amps The battery is simply another load, like the lights and water pump If you have multiple loads or batteries that can use the 55 amps it will be delivered to those loads If you have only one battery and no other loads turned on, that battery might take that 55 for a few seconds, before tapering down, If you have several batteries with heavy discharge, they can and probably will take the full 55 amps It's all about wire size and battery need (state of charge) Correct except for the exact number of amps vs the rated max. Smk got more than his WFCO's rating and I got more the my converters' ratings as stated above. The/a PowerMax guy told me their first batch of 100 ampers they got in from the sub-contractor that makes them would do 120a. The PowerMax folks thought that was a bit much, so they had to get "Engineering" to do more work on that so they would do closer to 100a. That got done. As it is, my 100 amper does 104a, which is "close enough" I would be very upset if it only did 99a of course! :) Seriously annoyed. So 104 is keeping me happy and PowerMax happy.
BFL13 08/21/14 08:01pm Tech Issues
RE: Charger: Meanwell 10a or Iota DLS 15?

This is just about Salvo being so touchy about his beloved Iota. Almost as bad as me and my PowerMax! :)
BFL13 08/21/14 06:15pm Tech Issues
RE: CHARGING TERMS Bulk/Absorbsion/Float

13.6 is a good, normal all-around float voltage value. 14.8 is a good normal set point for absorbsion. 16.0 is a good normal end point for equalization. The charger is doing one of three things... Charging Floating Unplugged It is not a "charger" it is a "converter" so besides "charging" it is also running "loads" even when the battery is fully charged. If there are no loads and the battery is fully charged the converter (if so designed) will drop to 13.2v for its "float voltage" stage. some of them have a little shot of 14.4v every so often tossed in with that third stage to prevent stratification. Some converter makers go so far as to call that a "fourth stage" and even call that little shot of 14.4, "equalization" That is so they can sell their "4-stage converter" which is better than the other guy's mere "3-stage converter." You can't fight it Mex. It is sales not engineering that runs the World. You know that! :)
BFL13 08/21/14 06:10pm Tech Issues
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