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 > Your search for posts made by 'BFL13' found 1897 matches.

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RE: Efficiency Test Results -MPPT Controller (Eco-Worthy)

"From the frying pan into the fire" comes to mind :) The controller keeps playing with Vmp so by the time you take one measurement the other that goes with it doesn't quite match so you can get a too wide spresd or a two narrow spread between the two measurements. Very frustrating but with practice, you can get it within reason. I ignored any possible loss between battery and controller that might affect the percentage. I have two feet of #8 on pos and same on neg there, if anyone is fussy, that was at 14 amps and 13 volts.
BFL13 04/17/15 05:30pm Tech Issues
Efficiency Test Results -MPPT Controller (Eco-Worthy)

Got some results today on measuring for controller efficiency. The numbers jump around while you are trying to take them so total accuracy is impossible, but several tests were all in the same ballpark, so here is a typical test result using my set up of a 230w Hanwha panel and the Eco-Worthy 20a MPPT controller. Test conditions- sky fairly steady in some haze, no clouds going by to screw things up. I ran battery loads to keep battery voltage steady in the 12s. Panel specs: Voc 37, Isc 8.3, Vmp 30, Imp 7.7 At the panel- 35C panel, 17C ambient, cooling breeze on panel tilted up, pointing at sun. 35.2 Voc, 7.7 Isc For the test I inserted the meter set for amps between the panel neg pigtail and the neg wire to controller, got 6.4 amps (which was the Imp) at 29.5 volts at the panel. At the controller input got 29.2 volts for Vmp, so line loss was 0.3v about 1%, which is what I was getting last year with the same set-up. The controller efficiency is between its input and output watts. INPUT- 29.2 x 6.4 = 187 watts OUTPUT- 12.7v x 14.06a = 178.6 watts controller display said 178watts Calculation: 187 - 178 = 9 and 9/187 is a 4.8% loss, so controller efficiency was 95.2% The other tests all came out in the same ballpark with efficiency in the mid-90s. Actual controller efficiency varies under various conditions and there are curves available for some models. I don't have the curves for the Eco-Worthy. I have seen curves for other brands that show efficiency is reduced to the mid 90s when the controller is working nearer its max ratings for amps and watts. So the 230w and 14a is against the Eco-W's 250w and 20a ratings, which makes its measured efficiency here in the mid-90s reasonable compared with other MPPT controllers. Later someday I will get another set of readings for when we are at STC under blue sky and higher ambient temp to compare with these.
BFL13 04/17/15 03:59pm Tech Issues
RE: panel wire AWG to controller

Testing comparisons require blue sky all day (no clouds to make variety) and no trees etc from sun-up to sundown arc. (or same arc for each test) You need to run a load all day to keep the battery voltage from going up and reducing your amps. That battery voltage has to be the same each test if using MPPT which does better on low battery. In real life you never get the daily AH haul possible because battery voltage goes up and amps taper. You might do some sporadic loads in the afternoon and get some of those AH. If you have a clear arc, in theory you can do from sun-up till high noon and just double that for the day. That lets you do two tests a day, second one from high noon till sundown. Location is not always helpful for that mirror image idea. Eg if sunrise is over the sea but sundown is over the land, you get more moisture in the air in the morning where the sun is than in the evening where the sun is now. Despite all the testing difficulties, you can get consistent results (repeatable) close enough to learn what you need to know using your meter and the rest of your existing set-up. You don't have to be a science lab to the nth decimal point for getting good enough results with the solar. Except when your results don't match the pre-conceptions of some folks, they will pooh-pooh your tests for not being scientific enough :)
BFL13 04/14/15 10:19pm Tech Issues
RE: Power inverter issue

Hello all, I am new here and am armed with questions. First I am not new to camping, but I am new to electrical on my camper. I have a 1979 Prowler 19E. It is a great sturdy trailer but when I was in Kentucky last summer I had several appliances going at once and then suddenly they stopped. (microwave, Fridge, a plug in box fan, my computer, and several lights. The trailer was plugged in.) I checked all the fuses and breakers and they are fine. It is only the plugs on the right hand side of the trailer. The plugs on the left still work. I am wondering if I fried half of the inverter as it is 36 years old? It does make a electrical hum as all old electronics do. But not a buzzing like sparks jumping. Or is something else wrong. What are your ideas? Also the 12V system never really worked correctly. The lights were very dim, and if you ran the water pump they were non existent. Could that have been an early symptom? Thanks for the input. -Nick. You have at least two 120v receptacle circuits and each has its own 120v breaker on the panel. One of those circuits doesn't work, the other does. The converter, however primitive, operates from 120v and makes 12v from that. You converter's charger is not working. You might have a converter that works but the charger part does not. Either way, with no charger part, your batteries will run down as noted. Your 120v to the converter might be gone along with that one receptacle's circuit's 120v or you might still have 120v to the converter, but no charger part working. With your digital multimeter you can find out what 120v is working or not and where. and you can check for 12v amount at the battery posts to see if it is at converter value of 13.6v approx. or just 12.x (or less) from battery only.
BFL13 04/14/15 07:04pm Tech Issues
RE: panel wire AWG to controller

Let's get this straight. Clouds reduce irraniance. Hence all panels are affected by clouds. Not *some* panels as you previously stated. You can test all you want to your hearts desire. But I would rather use my engineering analytical toolbag to achieve the correct answer. Maybe if you hadn't been hiding in your analytical tool bag you would have noticed that I was the one saying that while all are effected, some are more so than others for like three years now. https://www.google.ca/search?q=popcorn+image&biw=1093&bih=461&tbm=isch&imgil=_Xu4tzbN0yqhKM%253A%253B6iYXMiR6t0tvJM%253Bhttp%25253A%25252F%25252Fdreamatico.com%25252Fpopcorn.html&source=iu&pf=m&fir=_Xu4tzbN0yqhKM%253A%252C6iYXMiR6t0tvJM%252C_&usg=__RrPvc4gj2JiUNCHdoGNsl42hPmA%3D&ved=0CEEQyjc&ei=pJwtVYiMIciSoQT5_IAw#imgrc=uVuw4OpAC5rpYM%253A%3BVqc9xHKftiWu2M%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fwww.clipartbest.com%252Fcliparts%252F4ib%252FBRg%252F4ibBRgxig.jpeg%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Freal-i-d.net%252Fpopcorn-clipart.html%3B1082%3B694
BFL13 04/14/15 05:04pm Tech Issues
RE: Breakaway Switch

Tekonsha says don't do it and so does the instructions for the switch. "4. WARNING. Disconnect trailer plug before testing breakaway unit. Failure to do so will result in severe damage to electronic brake control." Apparently, it does not always fry it. But that's what the instructions say. I guess Tekonsha expects you to unplug the 7-pin before your hitch fails and pulls the breakaway pin? No, you are supposed to have the lengths of the wires and cords so that the 7-pin gets pulled out before the breakaway pin does. With a TT instead of a 5er, you also have those safety chains. If the TT comes off the ball to the chains, I am not clear if that counts as a breakaway. I think I would like the 7-pin to still do the braking then and not get pulled till the chains broke too. I think the whole thing is for a crash where the tow vehicle is now stopped and the trailer has come off and would roll down the road on its own till it hit something if it didn't have its brakes come on using the power from the trailer mounted battery. Also some common sense is required for where to attach the breakaway pin wire. The RV "techs" at our Dealer had ours with the wire hooked to the 5er hitch head in the truck. This would not help if the breakaway was due to the hitch head coming off its support somehow (no idea of a scenario for that). I have it hooked to the clip on a long dog leash attached to one of the eye-pads in the truck bed. Also the switch instructions say, " Do not hook cable to safety chain loop or the hitch ball." Same idea. My comment was made as sarcasm. Should have added a :) :) =sam the eagle&filters=images&filters=videos&sort=1&o=0]http://media.photobucket.com/user/fosse7/media/sam-the-eagle-i-dont-approve.jpg.html?filters=sam the eagle&filters=images&filters=videos&sort=1&o=0
BFL13 04/14/15 05:00pm Tech Issues
RE: Low Voltage

Your battery is fine. As you see the trouble is in the lighting circuit itself from the fuse out to the lights. Somewhere along that circuit there is a high resistance spot you need to find and repair causing that low voltage.
BFL13 04/14/15 12:05pm Tech Issues
RE: Got shocked while washing trailer

One way to get a GFCI fault is to get the outside receptacle wet. He was washing his rig when this happened. So..... ? The problem is not a GFCI fault, it is a hot skin. Someone threw in a comment about a GFCI fault just to muddy the water. I don't know the electrical details so my terminology is not to be trusted. ISTR past threads where they got a tingle from the trailer skin or frame while doing something and it turned out the problem was GFCI related. Once they plugged the shore cord into a GFCI receptacle it popped, revealing the problem, and after fixing what was causing that, the tingle problem wet away too. Can't say which is chicken and which is egg for that. Usually the shore power cord adapter being out in a puddle or some such reason to do with rain IIRC.
BFL13 04/14/15 10:07am Tech Issues
RE: panel wire AWG to controller

The best part will be when Jim tries out his $600 controller and reports whether it does any better than the $100 ones.
BFL13 04/13/15 09:10pm Tech Issues
RE: panel wire AWG to controller

I thought Jim was worried about shading effect if in series. People with no such worries are telling him not to worry! I don't get it.
BFL13 04/13/15 06:34pm Tech Issues
RE: Low Voltage

I was thinking maybe like the LED lights I put in the outside fixtures that have exposed circuit boards. But they are not on. Good thought though. They are not switched on, but may be "on" due to a short. For any trouble-shooting, the first suspect is the last thing you did to it.
BFL13 04/13/15 06:23pm Tech Issues
RE: Low Voltage

Look for a 12v lamp that is wet, like maybe in the shower or outside.
BFL13 04/13/15 05:58pm Tech Issues
RE: Flickering interior lights - Problem Solved!

You need to get the solenoid replaced soon. You have no way to disconnect the batteries easily to keep from battery discharge during each storage period. You could purchase a manual battery disconnect switch which would have much less chance of sparking. I will assume you are just joking about your 50 cent repair, and are not seriously planning to leave it that way. Problem in today's world is there are too many "clueless" who would follow your advice. ;) Why can't he just take a wire off the house battery post for free and put it back on when needed?
BFL13 04/13/15 05:53pm Tech Issues
RE: Got shocked while washing trailer

One way to get a GFCI fault is to get the outside receptacle wet. He was washing his rig when this happened. So..... ?
BFL13 04/13/15 05:45pm Tech Issues
RE: converter

What does yours have now? The original would have been fairly primitive by today's standards.
BFL13 04/13/15 05:41pm Tech Issues
RE: WFCO 9990 Converter Amp Draw

The power factor (probably 0.7, same as the PDs') will make that input 1450w, actually requiring 2,071 VA from the power source (generator or pedestal) 2071/108 volts (for the 120v) = 19a. Which is why a 90 amp (DC) charger that is not power factor corrected needs a 20a (AC)circuit breaker and #12 wire. The PD 9280 does too, and it has 80 DC amps, not 90. BTW, the PowerMax 100 amper is power factor corrected and so it can run on a 15a circuit. So can the WFCO 98100.
BFL13 04/13/15 05:34pm Tech Issues
RE: Thermostat

Similar anyway. The old type Duotherms will be hard to find in future, so will be forced to get the digital kit eventually I suppose. Could be the same with the old style Colemans, no idea. Perhaps there is something about it on their website.
BFL13 04/12/15 08:49pm Tech Issues
RE: Thermostat

For the Duotherm old ones, the replacement involves putting a digital "kit" up in the air conditioner to go with the new type thermostat. About $150 just for the parts.
BFL13 04/12/15 08:37pm Tech Issues
RE: 100 amp charging source vs 2 grp31 AGM

Yes, the knob should be marked around it for a few favourite voltages like 13.6 and 14.8 when it is not connected to a battery (bench test situation) so you can dial that in when on battery. The battery skews the voltage showing on the charger's voltmeter otherwise. I don't worry much about precision since it is all over the map due to temperature anyway. I use my 14.8 marker then add a bit if it is cold out. Close enough for government work! :)
BFL13 04/12/15 05:03pm Tech Issues
RE: 100 amp charging source vs 2 grp31 AGM

Good point about the 94a constant and not tapering. I just find it hard to believe it won't do 100a or more. When it was doing 94, it would have been a good test to raise the voltage and see if the amps went up. If they did, it's the battery bank, not the charger. The charger's fan is supposed to be on demand. You can hear it all right when it does come on :)
BFL13 04/12/15 03:09pm Tech Issues
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