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 > Your search for posts made by 'BFL13' found 928 matches.

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RE: Need to up my solar to do some serious charging

Check out p8/36 http://www.cooperindustries.com/content/dam/public/bussmann/Electrical/Resources/technical-literature/bus-ele-an-10191-pv-app-guide.pdf
BFL13 03/21/17 10:54pm Tech Issues
RE: Inverter question

Using long DC instead of short DC and long 120v?
BFL13 03/21/17 06:16pm Tech Issues
RE: Need to up my solar to do some serious charging

5 minutes of MW at 150 amps DC is 12.5AH. Trivial! 10 hours of fridge "on" 2/3 the time overnight at 8 amps is 53.3AH. = One hour of good solar next morning when you can do up to 60 amps. (Longer if the batts are not down much so won't take that many amps.) Ok--- late afternoon your batts are as good as full. 500AH. Make supper use 10 minutes of MW 25AH, fridge for 10 hrs 54AH, 3 hr movie on TV/DVD at 10 amps for 30 AH some lights fans etc another 30AH, make breakfast--toaster, coffee, 5 minutes of MW= 25AH maybe, so batts are now down 164AH at about 67%SOC and the sun is shining. Your batts will be full again just after lunch. You could have run the furnace for a while in there too if you wanted. EDIT--your 60 amps of solar will be down to 52ish amps left for battery, 2/3 of the day just from the 8 amp (WAG) fridge, so calculate your best recharge times as though having a 50 amp charger. That's about 3 hours to do a 72-90 on your bank (all Absorption time, amps tapering) and the rest of the daytime left to get from 90 to near full. We do all that with less than 1/2 as much solar as you have, but without the res fridge going all the time.
BFL13 03/21/17 04:22pm Tech Issues
RE: Need to up my solar to do some serious charging

Isn't a 20amp 12v breaker a 10 amp at 24v breaker? (see the specs for the switch I linked earlier) This is for a "24v" path carrying up to near 30 amps. Will the breaker when "open" hold its open or will it be jumped across (leak?) in a way? I don't know about these things am here to learn. Thanks. (I did have trouble with a switch that leaked some voltage when supposedly open. Had to replace it)
BFL13 03/21/17 02:55pm Tech Issues
RE: Need to up my solar to do some serious charging

My intention was not to overdo it but because the panels will be flat I thought I'd be barely able to keep up. In any case I'm glad I'm not coming up short. Texas in summer will have the sun overhead mid-day so flat is no problem, while in winter mid-day the sun is lower so now flat is not as good as aimed panels. It varies all year by your latitude and season. I did measure my daily solar harvest at 49N In May when there was clear blue sky all day for taking results. This was with a 130w panel. These numbers would not apply elsewhere at another time of year of course. Aimed- 90AH, Tilted pointing South 70AH, Flat 56AH. So scaling up to 945W of panels lying flat in same situation, that gets you : 945/130 x 56 = 407AH for your 500AH battery bank. If you start at 50% that means 250AH (+ some more for heating the battery) for battery and leaves 407-250 = 157AH for "other" I(ignoring battery recharge heat loss) So you are not going to run short. :) Use it or lose it! Splurge on 12v.
BFL13 03/21/17 02:33pm Tech Issues
RE: Need to up my solar to do some serious charging

When y'all say I'm going to have all this extra power are you meaning that it will make sufficient power to run everything-- the big residential frig, an occasional microwave (not very often), a few lights that are all LED and water pump plus end the day with full batteries? Any charger will first supply the other 12v loads and then any amps "left over" will go towards battery charging. If you are running a 3 amp light, you will not get any battery charging until the solar is supplying more than 3 amps. All normal. Later in the day your batteries are mostly charged up so they are only accepting say 15 amps and that is tapering. You can supply say 40 amps of solar mid-afternoon in the sun/cloud situation at the time and sun is getting lower. (Everything is always in motion!) You can now run 25 amps worth of things and still get your 15 amps to the battery. If you run 30 amps of stuff you will only see 10 amps to the battery, delaying the recharge. It depends on how much more daylight you have whether that would matter. Every day is different for how much sunlight you get and how much 12v stuff you want to use. You have to play it as it comes. It helps if the weatherman gets his forecast right so you can plan for doing big things on the next sunny day and not now while it is cloudy. Using solar puts you in touch with Mother Nature :) A simple example for saving RV battery with solar is run your laptop on its own battery in the morning and then recharge it in the afternoon while you have the extra solar
BFL13 03/21/17 02:07pm Tech Issues
RE: Need to up my solar to do some serious charging

It's a breaker with a manual switch you can push that shuts things off. I have used these. Note amp rating is 12v/24v. You are switching the 24v side of the controller doing 24v panel/12v battery https://www.princessauto.com/en/detail/keyed-battery-master-cut-off-switch/A-p8105033e
BFL13 03/21/17 10:29am Tech Issues
RE: Need to up my solar to do some serious charging

My wiring is following Almot's "correct" plan. What size fuse for my setup do I need between the controller and batteries on the positive side? I got three 20 amp breakers that I can manually switch off for the panel side. Go by the wire gauge and the amps on that wire (nominally 60 amps) #6 and a 75? Your "buss" is the inverter terminal. The solar is a "branch" The inverter to battery wire will be fatter for more amps with a bigger fuse You will be down to one pos path from roof to controller with the three panels' junction on the roof, so those three 20 amp breakers won't help. You want one switch near the controller where you can get at it. Actual amps input to the controller on that wire will vary up to near 30 amps and you are using #8 wire. A switch rated more than 30 and under 50. A 40?
BFL13 03/21/17 09:01am Tech Issues
RE: Panel Wattage Rating Question (Midnite Mystery?)

Makes sense to me! I can see when PWM specs have a spec panel limit, that is to keep the output amps from going too high. Most PWM brands are not self-limiting for amps. If you go over the amps rating the controller heats up and will eventually cook itself. I now suspect but don't know, that the other MPPT controllers are more like the Midnite for how they really work except the Midnite specs are more clear about that? Folks who have them and have watched their monitors would know about that I guess. The other brands like MS must simply ballpark the array size as was suggested in replies above, so you can see what sort of array size "goes with" that controller but don't have to be exact. It is confusing when the numbers don't come out right--makes me think I am missing something that might matter for my own MPPT set-up which has some over-panelling to it. The critical Voc limit does mean you have to be exact and needs the numbers to come out right for cold temps too. So that is the real limiter on array size/arrangement with MPPT-- not the total wattage in the specs which are just broad brush numbers it seems.
BFL13 03/21/17 08:19am Tech Issues
RE: Need to up my solar to do some serious charging

For just battery charging, two of those panels would be plenty on four 12s, so having the third panel allows for a more lavish off-grid lifestyle using the 2000w inverter etc. Lots of time when 12v stuff is run straight from solar. No need to get a bigger battery bank. Don't tell DW! :)
BFL13 03/21/17 07:54am Tech Issues
RE: Panel Wattage Rating Question (Midnite Mystery?)

I am not dissing their specs, I am trying to understand them.
BFL13 03/20/17 10:54pm Tech Issues
RE: Panel Wattage Rating Question (Midnite Mystery?)

The MS 60 has a "nominal" panel watts limit of 800/12 and 1600/24, but does allow for "over-panelling" because it has that 60 amp output control. 800w/12v = 66.7 amps. They have a note suggesting over-panelling can be good for you. I can see how the wattage doubles if you hold amps the same and double the voltage. But that Midnite has lower output amps ratings for each rise in voltage. I didn't see where they show any panel wattage amounts. if you do have 800w rating of panel as input, then with 25C above ambient for panel temp, like 25c/50C then you have 10% power loss: 800-80=720w and 720/12 = 60 amps but you can have other circumstances.
BFL13 03/20/17 09:48pm Tech Issues
RE: Panel Wattage Rating Question (Midnite Mystery?)

Controller efficiency is better at 48/48 than at 48/12 so why is there a lower amps rating for the Midnite at 48v (battery voltage, I ASSume) than at 12v? If at 14.8v battery and the output watts limit is 800w can you ever see 60 amps? I think it would be limited to 800/14.8 = 54 amps but I don't own one to have noticed that. My Tracer 2210A MPPT manual says its "rated charge power" is 260w/12v or 520w/24v and that the controller will limit charging current to the "rated charge current" (20 amps) However, 260/12 = 21.7 amps Is the self-limiting based on the amps rating or the input power rating? It says you can over-panel but at three times "charge power" you will fry the controller. So max panel allowed for my 20 amper is 3x260= 780/12v. But panel is input and charge power is output.
BFL13 03/20/17 08:06pm Tech Issues
RE: Help with lack of 12V power...Updated

As others have noted, you seem to have an "open" on the wire path from converter to battery. You say the battery fuse is ok. So there has to be another open in that path. You say it is not the disconnect switch. So what does that leave? Perhaps a loose connection at the battery wire lugs on the fuse panel? The jacks and slide have direct connection to the battery so they will work even if the battery juice can't get to the fuse panel and be charged from the converter (also on the fuse panel.) You could try to run the jacks from the converter (shore power needed) with no battery to see if there is indeed an open in the path. You take the battery wires off and clamp the two red wires together that were on the battery pos post so there is still a path from converter to jacks. You need to find the open with a voltmeter at each end of every item in the path till you no longer get 12.x battery voltage. That's your culprit.
BFL13 03/20/17 07:00pm Tech Issues
Panel Wattage Rating Question (Midnite Mystery?)

I am confused about how they do the panel wattage at 12v vs 24v for a controller. EG, the usual blurb seems to be that output wattage rating for an MPPT (EG Morningstar 60 amper is 800/12v and 1600w/24v for your array. I don't understand why they have that for output when the array is input. However, I gather ?????? that the controller has the same amps limit (self -limiting) to 60 amps no matter what the battery voltage is, so if your battery system is 12v then you get 12 x 60 = 720w as your limit (800 here, so amps limit must be a touch higher?) and with 24v system, you get to have 24 x 60 = 1440W of panels except they allow 1600w. Similar with many other controller brands which have twice the panel wattage allowed for 24v system (meaning battery voltage AFAIK) than for 12v systems. Then we get this Midnite Mystery-- http://www.midnitesolar.com/pdfs/spec_sheet_classic.pdf Where the output amps is less for higher voltage systems. So what is the rating for panel wattage at different voltage systems? You can't double the watts if the amps rating of the controller does not stay the same going from 12 to 24 eg.
BFL13 03/20/17 06:37pm Tech Issues
RE: Need to up my solar to do some serious charging

Do I need to fuse or circuit break these panels before they go to the controller? It seems at a minimum I'd want a cutoff switch of some sort. What's best? Three fuses? Three breakers? Do you fuse (or switch) both the negative and positive leads? It would seem only the positive lead would need a fuse or a breaker. And is a ground to the chassis adequate for the panel ground ( not the negative lead to the controller but the ground Canadian Solar says the aluminum panel frame itself needs)? The RV itself is not really grounded so is it even necessary? You do not need to ground the panel frames with an RV installation. Ignore that part. Your controller might insist that you always be on battery with the panels connected, never have panels connected with no battery, so you want a way to disconnect the array from the controller for when you have the batteries disconnected for some reason. Follow the connection sequence for that doing the installation too. You do not need any fuses on the array side of the controller unless that makes an easy cut-off switch Your positive output wire from controller to inverter should have a fuse or DC CB near the inverter terminal. Easiest would be a 75a ANL with no fuse holder needed. ( you might see over 60 amps at times with cloud effect) Hook one end to the inverter, put a ring lug on the wire and bolt to the other end of the ANL. #6 wire at least for controller-inverter?
BFL13 03/20/17 03:51pm Tech Issues
RE: Need to up my solar to do some serious charging

I'm ordering the controller and then will concentrate on the wiring. By the way, I've always been a big fan of soldering. Why does everyone use these MC4 connectors. I know there has to be a reason. Just wondering. I am a good solderer. No cold joints. Rain.
BFL13 03/19/17 08:47pm Tech Issues
RE: Need to up my solar to do some serious charging

Will it hurt anything if I ever do exceed the Amp rating of the MS 60? Or does the controller just "throw away" any excess? No, it has that built-in protection so it won't over-amp and heat up and slowly cook itself. OTOH you will not ever get full benefit of the 945 watts of panels but close enough and at such a great price. Except much of the day you will get full benefit because the sun will be lower and all the watts you are getting in at the time (more watts with more size panels) will get turned into (under 60) amps. You are good to go. BTW, for battery monitoring, it is all "important." Parasitic loads add up fast. IMO put every neg on that shunt. You can use a bus bar for several negs and then one fat wire to the shunt if the shunt bolt can't take that many lugs stacked up.
BFL13 03/19/17 08:42pm Tech Issues
RE: Need to up my solar to do some serious charging

Back to basics. The OP has 945w reduced by 10% due to panel heating = 850w. The MS 60 amper says 800w/12v, but it will accept over-panelling and still do 60 amps. 50w off 850w is 5.8% so anything under that for line loss will not make any difference to the output of the MS 60 amper.
BFL13 03/19/17 08:29pm Tech Issues
RE: Electrical upgrades

You could run some of those high amp appliances with a 2000w inverter while on shore power for the other things, and the converter would recharge the batts in the meantime between running those high inverter loads. That way you can stay with the 30 amp. Means you need a big enough AH battery bank to run the big inverter for the time it takes.
BFL13 03/19/17 07:55pm Tech Issues
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