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 > Your search for posts made by 'BFL13' found 2088 matches.

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  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: Generator voltage question

It was the same way for the past 10 years, so no diff now.
BFL13 07/30/15 07:55pm Tech Issues
RE: Samlex Power Inverter

Before giving up, you could try it with fatter wire gauge to the battery. On the GFCI thing, if it has a chassis ground you could try it with that or if you already have that connected, try it without it. Some inverters have their receptacle grounds mixed in with their chassis grounds.
BFL13 07/30/15 01:29pm Tech Issues
RE: Achieving full charge with solar system

You need the Charge Wizard to make that 9160 be able to do Bulk and Float.
BFL13 07/30/15 11:58am Tech Issues
RE: Speed Limits in Canada

It used to be that what we called a "45 gallon drum" the Americans called a "55 gallon drum". Same drum. It was a standard joke here, that American tourists swore that they got more miles per gallon on Canadian gas than they got back home, so they thought we had better gasoline. There was confusion in the recipe books over the size of an "ounce" or a "cup", can't remember the exact details, but American cook books were off when using Canadian sized cups and spoon sizes. There was also some problem about how big a "tea spoon" is ISTR. Metric was supposed to save us from all that, but it just added to the confusion. One thing it turned out to mean is that now in Canada we have to buy these tiny little paint cans called "gallon cans" with no apparent saving in price! :(
BFL13 07/29/15 06:38pm RVing in Canada and Alaska
RE: Solar panels, how high should they be above the roof

What's wrong with the mounting holes the panels come with, how are they not in the 'right' places? (I haven't got mine yet, picking them up later today.) Google Canadian Solar installation manual and read Chapter 6 on mounting options. They show where to put the supports for either orientation so the panels don't flex out of shape etc. They do say not to drill more holes in the frame, which would weaken the frame. As to warranty, it depends on the Brand I guess, but Sharp said with theirs that it did not apply when the panel was on a mobile platform, only for on a stick house, eg.
BFL13 07/29/15 09:18am Tech Issues
RE: How to connect more than one solar panel

The three wires go to a "combiner" bus bar and from that to the controller terminal. The wire from the combiner to the controller is fatter gauge than each wire to it from the panels, because it has to take all three amps worth of flow.
BFL13 07/28/15 08:59pm Tech Issues
RE: How to connect more than one solar panel

I have 3 ea, 55 watt, 3.5 amp solar panels, what is the best way to connect these together. What gauge wire do I need. I would like to use connectors that I can take apart, this will NOT be a fixed system on the roof. I do have a controller. It works better for amps to the controller if you feed each panel's wires to a common point (which could be the controller itself) instead of connecting panel to panel and then run wires from the last panel to the controller. Not a huge amount, but it does make a difference. MC4s make a good quick connect, but you need long enough finger-nails to squeeze them apart. Wire nuts work, but can get frazzled after a few times. Anderson makes some other types.
BFL13 07/28/15 08:24pm Tech Issues
RE: PWM input voltage, Xantrex C40 test video

Today his battery bank has reached the controller's high voltage set point near 14.3, and the battery side is 14.34v. The array side is 19.10v. If Voc = 21v that yields ON time of 28.4% (14.3*.284) + (21*.716) = 19.1v (Isc(Ipanel @14.3v sun adjusted) *.284)+(Ioc(zero)*.716) = I*.284 Math is happening! :) Actually that 130w panel in the sun usually had a Voc of about 20.3v (rating 21.9v) with the heat, while it was cranking out its rated amps of 8.2 or so. They have been away for a few days so I got the above reading where there is not much 12v load. I don't know what they leave on when they are away. So his batts ( four 6s) are quite full. Side note: that is how he can get away with a single tilted South 130 on four 6s and the batts don't go bad on him. He is away enough that they get to true full during the day on those away days (when sunny) the 14.3 float is not losing him much water either. Just right! :) BTW red31, I used your equation of time/declination graph I printed last December in my post on tilting yesterday. Maybe you could repost that graph in that thread? Thanks.
BFL13 07/28/15 04:24pm Tech Issues
RE: Achieving full charge with solar system

Do not ever try to pass the charging from a charger or converter through a solar controller!!! (The controller works by shorting the solar panel, which is fine, but your charger or converter won't like being shorted! ) Getting to a true full is just a matter of time and amps to the battery at a high enough voltage to create "gassing" ( mid-14s) Solar can do it but often runs out of daytime too soon. The charger can do it on shore power but on generator now it runs out of time too. the last 10% of the recharge takes hours and hours. If you get the math right for your situation, you can run the charger first to get the batts up quicker than the solar can early in the day and then let the solar finish the recharge taking all the rest of the daytime. Problem is you also are camping, so that means getting the batts full before say 6pm when you start using the 12v to make supper and then watch a movie say.
BFL13 07/28/15 01:50pm Tech Issues
RE: Help with Solar 30 controller

Yes, it is the $30 one on ebay. I did just get it tight. I had put the wire under the slot on the side, but it is supposed to go above the slot on the side. The screw lifts that slot up to tighten. At least that is what seemed to work. That's right. Turn the screw counter-clockwise to lower the bottom "jaw" so it is loose and will flop up and down when you turn the unit back and forth. Then poke in your wire above that loose jaw and turn the screw clockwise to tighten (brings the lower jaw back up) Next thing is after you connect to battery (but not yet to array) it will see whether it is on 12v or 24v. Now connect to array. When the voltage setting is made, note the battery voltage until it stops rising. This may be a little more than what you set. That is your "index error" Mine is 0.5v so to get it to stop at 14.8v I have to set 14.3v. Niner's is like that but with a 0.3v error. The actual display voltage is ok compared with battery voltage using a different meter. It is just the setting amount that is off a bit. The set voltage is also your float so if you are using the solar to just maintain the batts while not camping, be sure to lower your setting to a float amount good for the temperature at the time. (13.8 is for 50F while 13.2 is for 80F eg)
BFL13 07/28/15 01:38pm Tech Issues
Solar Tilt Change Reminder

Just a reminder for those with adjustable tilters that Declination is now on a steep slope from about 20N to Zero in the next eight weeks. (The little change in the last two months is over, so now we must do some work! :( ) That means your (if in North Lats) tilt angle must go up by about 5 degrees every two weeks from now till then. Keeping the angle better should help counter the shorter days for your daily AH haul. Of course it speeds up even more in October, but that is then and this is now.
BFL13 07/27/15 06:11pm Tech Issues
RE: PWM input voltage, Xantrex C40 test video

Back on limited internet. I just checked my old PWM, 130w set-up that I sold to my camping neighbour last year. Last week I reported it was in Bulk and ISTR the voltages were maybe 13.6/13.5 or some such (not sure which thread I posted that in) Anyway, it was as expected with the two voltages close. Today his battery bank has reached the controller's high voltage set point near 14.3, and the battery side is 14.34v. The array side is 19.10v.
BFL13 07/27/15 03:13pm Tech Issues
RE: PWM input voltage, Xantrex C40 test video

Amps to the battery will taper once battery voltage is held constant, but solar amps can be as many as the array can produce to run other loads too. It is hard to keep the battery voltage constant with loads running and solar conditions changing all day. If the loads take all of the available solar amps so the battery gets none, the battery voltage will fall. With loads on and off all day and sometimes taking all the amps and sometimes leaving some for the battery to continue charging, it gets confusing. You can be in Float with the battery getting a few (tapering) amps and the solar providing some of the rest of its amps to loads. If the loads take all the solar amps plus some from the battery, so the battery voltage falls enough (13.2v being a typical trigger), the controller will re-start Bulk, but that does not necessarily mean the battery will get any more amps just then if the loads are still taking them all. You can spend a long time in that Float with battery voltage not down to 13.2 yet. IMO the early morning data Mr Wiz provided shows that the C40 is a normal series PWM controller and after that in the day, there is so much going on at the same time it is confusing the picture.
BFL13 07/27/15 06:57am Tech Issues
RE: PWM input voltage, Xantrex C40 test video

Mr Wiz, please read this again from crewzer linked earlier. He does the actual calculation which helps explain the input voltage that you see once Bulk is done. "PWM controllers like the Morningstar TriStar and the Xantrex C40 limit the bulk-stage array voltage to that of the battery bank. In fact, it’s essentially the battery itself that sets the array voltage..... "It’s likely that the actual array voltage will operate higher than the battery voltage when the controller is functioning in ...absorb, float, or most of EQ... In this case, the array voltage will be the PWM duty-cycle weighted average of the battery voltage and the array’s Voc. "For example, if the PWM duty cycle is 50%, the battery voltage is 58 V, and the array Voc is 70 V, then the array’s operating voltage would be (58 V x 50%) + (70 V x 50%) = 64 V...." This is the same as the other posters and the standard blurbs say too.
BFL13 07/26/15 08:52pm Tech Issues
RE: PWM input voltage, Xantrex C40 test video

In this case the actual battery vs panel voltages are not what count. "Battery voltage" should be "controller out voltage" (about I volt higher than battery) to compare with "panel voltage" and that should be "controller input voltage" There is a standing 0.4 loss across the controller itself. So looking at the earlier morning results, IMO the controller is doing its proper closed switch thing and then it gets very close to the Bulk setting 14.5v at controller output and it should then start its one hour of Absorption before dropping to Float. With Mr Wiz' battery draws during the afternoon it might not drop to Float? If so, what do you call it after the hour at Absorption is up?
BFL13 07/26/15 02:03pm Tech Issues
RE: Yes it's my own D***N fault

You will have to change your name from "Rainbird" if this keeps up. You need a bus bar for all those wires that go to one post.
BFL13 07/26/15 01:40pm Tech Issues
RE: Solar Array - 12v & 24v concurrently?

You can always have a second controller on the same battery bank as the other. If you have a good deal on a big 24v panel and need an MPPT controller for it, the Eco-Worthy at $102 US is perfect. Last year I was doing that with my 24v 230w and the 12v 130w in separate arrays on the same bank. They add their amps when you make both to the same voltage settings.
BFL13 07/26/15 01:36pm Tech Issues
RE: Solar Array - 12v & 24v concurrently?

I have 3 12v panels (2x 80w, 1 x 135w) feeding into a Rogue 3024 MPPT controller, which then feeds 4 x T125 Trojans. I want to add another panel, was wondering if there is any way to add a 24v panel as a 2nd array to the 3024, or do I have to add another 12v to the existing array? the two 80s in parallel for 12v 160 and that in series with the 12v 135 makes a 24v, then parallel that 24 with the new single 24. However I do not know the controller's Voc or amps limits Also you might run out of wire! :)
BFL13 07/26/15 01:10pm Tech Issues
RE: PWM input voltage, Xantrex C40 test video

10:00am 16.66v 16.63v controller out 14.47v 15.33 amps battery 13.50 Me thinks you spoke to soon but perhaps IF you include the phrase "Quality PMW controller" ? :W The controller out voltage is at your Bulk setting so now it is controlling. The input voltage is now up due to duty cycle PWM meter averaging. No? Mt Wiz doesn't want to hear it from me, so it is up to those with more solar creds to convince him! :) A one volt drop on the controller-battery path with 15 amps. That has to hurt. But that is off-topic for this thread.
BFL13 07/26/15 12:51pm Tech Issues
RE: PWM input voltage, Xantrex C40 test video

Thanks Mr Wiz! At least we now know the C40 is indeed a normal series PWM. I didn't really know about that PWM duty cycle effect when the controller is controlling, so I learned about that. :) As you know, you are really taking a beating on the controller to battery path, but it is a complex situation to do anything about in the MH. Usually means you will undercharge the batts wrt the intended voltages you set, but you also do the weekly "cure" with the VEC1093. Mex says not to worry too much about the AGMs not getting quite the "right" voltages. Battery voltage sense wire? http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/28484577.cfm
BFL13 07/26/15 10:42am Tech Issues
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