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 > Your search for posts made by 'BFL13' found 2323 matches.

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RE: Is my converter fried?

You have low DC voltage (10-11v)from the converter when on shore power. Before saying the converter is bad, check your 120v voltage in the trailer. If it is less than 105v, you will get that low DC output from the converter. The slide will work on converter only. It does not need a battery for more oomph (except in maybe some cases) But the slide motor positive wire has to be touching the converter pos wire (use vice grips) since they are not in place together on the battery pos post.
BFL13 04/19/14 10:40am Tech Issues
RE: turning off 7345 converter

Is the inverter wired to the trailer batts for its input? No feedback with converter on TC batt unless the trailer batts are jumpered to the TC batt to get at the DC dist panel in the camper. Anyway the converter will still come on in the camper and run the 12v stuff instead of the batteries. Take the cover off the 120v circuit breakers and you see black wires going to them underneath. The converter is down below so you can see the black wire from it coming up to a breaker. Don't do anything with the white wire. the black wire may be spliced in with the black wire for another circuit often the receptacles. Snip the black wire from where it is on the receptacles circuit and tape the end still on the breaker (or it will short on the metal cover when you put that back on) Now you have choices. You can splice that black wire over onto a different circuit like the air conditioner you won't be using when on inverter. But then on shore power, you might not be able to run that and the converter off that one circuit. You can give that converter black wire its own breaker if there is a spare slot. Or you can insert a switch by adding some extra black wires and then re-attach to the breaker it was on before. With the switch, you can turn that off and leave the breaker on so the receptacles still work when you are on inverter. Disconnecting from the TC battery will not turn off the converter, just make one less thing for the converter to do when the inverter comes on.
BFL13 04/19/14 10:26am Tech Issues
RE: PD4655 Charging Graph

I think the SOC went over a bit because heat loss on recharge was not subtracted from the AH calculations. I don't know how much should be allowed for that with AGMs. It would be 10% maybe with Wets for the 80-90 part where you have gassing. Trimetric uses 4% for the whole range of SOC but the notes say they give up on what happens beyond 80% where things go crazy :) You have to reset the Tri's AH counter every so often.
BFL13 04/15/14 06:47am Tech Issues
RE: PD4655 Charging Graph

There was no sign of taper during the first 6 minutes, but I can find out for sure the next time I charge them. The key is minimal voltage drop, the closer the circuit voltage is to battery voltage the longer it will hold full amperage. That's just it, we don't know if there would have been any voltage spike because it started at 13.6v. No big deal, but be nice to know for sure. We have been waiting for years and years for somebody to come through with a proper PD graph and data like that. Thank you :) Even got some real AGM vs Wet actual comparison data as a bonus!
BFL13 04/14/14 09:41pm Tech Issues
RE: newbie trying to build solar system on a budget

I don't know that controller if it is fake MPPT or not. It says high set point is only 13.7v though, which if true is too low except for a float charger. http://www.ebay.com/itm/MPPT-30A-12-24V-SOLAR-CHARGE-CONTROLLER-POWER-BOOST-30-/251499076765?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3a8e835c9d#ht_4712wt_1001 Some of us on this forum have the 20a Eco-Worthy and it seems ok. You would need one for each 240w panel and then the two controllers could go in parallel on one battery bank or one to each bank if you have a split bank. I will be starting to use mine on a 230w panel later this week for an extended period and will be reporting on how it does.
BFL13 04/14/14 09:29pm Tech Issues
RE: newbie trying to build solar system on a budget

No, sadly that is just a PWM controller falsely marked as MPPT. I have the 20a version and can confirm that in real life. BTW you show the 5a version which is inadequate for amps anyway, even as a PWM. http://www.ebay.com/itm/5A-MPPT-Solar-Panel-Battery-Regulator-Charge-Controller-12V-24V-Auto-Switch-US-/191136503390?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2c809f965e#ht_6406wt_984 It does work well as a basic PWM controller though. High set point is 14.4v The very cheapest "real" not fake, MPPT is the Eco-Worthy at $102, then the Tracer at $140. After that you pay double or more.
BFL13 04/14/14 08:16pm Tech Issues
RE: Tank Monitor Idea

After you empty the tank--defined as nothing more comes out--which is not necessarily the same thing as empty-- the monitor says 3/4 full. Oops, that must mean there is gunk on the sensors. Ok so you crank your adjustment gizmo to read zero instead of 3/4. Now you start filling the tank more every day and what will the monitor say? You just added more gunk that might confuse the sensors. Will it come out right? Who knows? Tune in next week for the exciting conclusion to this drama. :)
BFL13 04/14/14 06:19pm Tech Issues
RE: PD4655 Charging Graph

"I started the test and began recording data. I didn't realize it for the first 6 minutes but the converter was not in "boost" mode. I gained around 0.6A by going into boost mode. I was current limited at that point still so the difference didn't amount to much in the total charge time. " I am wondering if this has distorted the result more than suspected. You avoided the possible "voltage spike" at start-up that causes immediate tapering in some cases. Or--maybe there would not have been such a spike. (Some with Honda 1000s kick off with 13.6 using their Charge Wizards and then swap over to 14.4 after a while when the Honda 1000 can carry the load.---question is whether you did that same thing in a sort of way) Now that you have the bug to keep track of these things, no doubt on subsequent recharges that will become known. Salvo suggests that a low charging rate might be an essential part of this success story. If it is then the PD would not work for me, where I like a high charging rate around 25% or so. OTOH, to get that, I had to modify my PowerMax to do 14.8 Vabs and now it will not do anything else but 14.8 once it gets there--no drop to 13.6 and 13.2 later on. So I need a second charger to be the shore power and float charger. If the PD could do a reasonable version of constant amps at a higher charging rate than Salvo suggests it could, then it would be a single do it all converter. But can it? So far none of the usual suspect converters is good at everything.
BFL13 04/14/14 06:03pm Tech Issues
RE: Running wires down the refer vent pipe

Easy from roof end but at the bottom the fridge sits on a wooden platform which is above, say, where the power centre is that includes the converter and fuse panels. You take off the vent cover on the side of the RV which is at the bottom end of the roof vent, and drill a hole in that wooden platform--BUT FIRST--check below that to see where you are going to drill a hole will not drill into something important like your converter :) So now you have your wires into the compartment under the fridge and you can go from there. Or you might be able to go sideways into another cabinet beside the fridge but there is almost no room at the sides at the back of the fridge.
BFL13 04/14/14 05:29pm Tech Issues
RE: My search for a generator

I have a dolly cart at home the same height as the truck bed so I can slide the Honda 3000 in and out of the truck from/to the dolly cart. While camping it stays in the truck. Noise depends on direction of the exhaust as stated above, and also what it can bounce off like the back of the truck's cab. IAW it varies. A 3000 running the same load should be quieter than the 2000 just from not being revved so high out of its max revs. Two-2000s running that same load should be quieter than the 3000 except there are two of them, so no idea how that would compare. the 3000 has a lower frequency sound that is easier on the ears than a higher pitched sound. That might be what is going on. Not sure what a 2000 sounds like anymore for pitch, been a while.
BFL13 04/14/14 04:39pm Tech Issues
RE: Help with Basic Solar Set Up

I upgraded the converter to a PD 4655 and also upgraded the charging wire to the batteries to #2 (#4 in parallel with factory #6) so it's pretty efficient now. Really just looking for something to keep the batteries charged while the TT is in storage and maybe offset some light use during boondocking. I have a Honda 2000 that I use for battery charging while boondocking so I don't need the solar to carry all of the usage. Let's say I watch the late show and the batteries are at 75% when I turn off the TV. The sun comes out and the solar controller is sending 14.4v to the batteries. When I roll out of bed and fire up the Honda, the PD4655 will start putting out 14.4v to the batteries. Does the solar controller stay online so its amperage will contribute to charge the batteries faster? Multiple chargers will either add their amps or share the amps the batteries will accept, and the proportion of the amps each charger does depends on the charger's voltage wrt battery voltage and the other chargers' voltages. If you have two equal voltage chargers that can do 40 amps each and the battery will accept 90 amps then you will get 80 amps. If the battery will only accept 40 amps, each charger will do 20a. If one charger is higher voltage, there will be a time when say the battery will take 50a and it is doing 30a while the other is doing 20. It keeps changing as battery voltage rises so that eventually when the battery voltage reaches the voltage of the lower voltage charger, it quits doing any amps and the other charger is left doing it all, however much that might be by then. You can just leave the solar on when running the converter on shore power and let the electrons sort it out amongst themselves who does what to whom. No harm done.
BFL13 04/14/14 03:44pm Tech Issues
RE: Help with Basic Solar Set Up

Good point....according the info I have the PD4655 converter goes into "equalization mode" automatically for 15 mins every 21 hrs to equalize the batteries. Nope! That is an incorrect use of the term. What that does is jack the voltage to the 14.4 bosst voltage every so often in an attempt to prevent stratification while on the 13.2v Float. "Equalization" means the voltage goes to mid 15s or 16v and really gets things going. Special procedure with batteries disconnected from rig to not ruin the fridge's control board etc.
BFL13 04/14/14 02:21pm Tech Issues
RE: newbie trying to build solar system on a budget

Guys, will the Ecoworthy controller work for his module without all the rewiring fuss? The $102 20a EcoW has a low 42Voc limit so one 250w panel is about it there. The $140 Tracer 20a though has a high 100Voc limit so that might be the way to go. It depends how the big panel's cells can be juggled into a series/ parallel that would be under these limits where you might use two or more controllers. By juggling the cells, can it be made into a number of 36 cell 12v (17v) panels? then you could use several $13 PWM controllers in parallel on the battery
BFL13 04/14/14 02:14pm Tech Issues
RE: newbie trying to build solar system on a budget

I can't quite see what the OP is able to do so can't help. needs some sort of series/parallel and then see what controller(s) needed. usually, two or more lower amp controllers are cheaper in parallel on the battery than one big amp controller. the rub is the Voc limit of any controller--that's what fries them--one second over the Voc limit and it fries. BTW, while I am tweaking, PT is twerking :) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NgoyVRO0A0E
BFL13 04/14/14 02:01pm Tech Issues
RE: PD4655 Charging Graph

This is the other case where the PD did ok, but in this case with Wets. The change here was fatter wiring--much fatter! with 9ft of #2 (which is fairly fat IMO--should have been ok) his tapered. Notice that his did taper slightly too from 61 to 57 instead of going straight across left to right with constant current case as you see with other chargers. IMO this indicates there is still something not quite right with the PD, but that can be largely overcome with improving the wiring as these two cases show, whether Wets or AGMs. Probably means only get a PD if you can deck mount it close to the batts and not as a replacement lower portion with longer wire from the location. I now see that the PD could be good for my set-up if I ever needed a replacement, since I could get the almost constant amps plus it has the CW. It stays at the high Vabs for the four hours, so no "gentle" stuff by dropping to 14.2 or 13.6 for the Absorption Stage. ktmrfs Portland, Oregon Posted: 02/16/13 08:14pm Link | Quote | Print | Notify Moderator I have a PD60A unit that previously was connected to a pair of GC with about 9 ft of #2 wire. PD would start at 55A or so at 50%SOC and start tapering fairly quickly, within 15 minutes or so. It would be down to 45A pretty quick. Don't recall how long. Now to my new setup 1) Battery bank consisting of 4 Trojan T-125's. 490AH 2) ALL interconnect with #3/0 welding cable with one minor exception. 12V side is 9ft #3/0, ground side is 6ft #3/0. The exception is that the PD converter is connected to the #3/0 at my inverter input with about 9" of #4 cable for the ground and positive lead. From there the #3/0 goes to a perko disconnect switch and directly to the battery. Battery is protected at the battery terminal with 150A MRBP fuse. So to see how this performed, I discharged the battery bank to 50% per my trimetric, then started charging. Initial current was 61.5A, and now after 2 hours, it has tapered down to 59.4A. Trimetric says 72% SOC. I'll keep checking for the next two hours to see how the output voltage holds up. At 60A, the trimetric shows a 0.1V drop along the cable run. so I guess the PD Can be a constant current source for a long while IF you have low enough resistance in the leads, and a big enough battery bank. 2 1/2 hours, down to 57.5A and up to 80%SOC The data are: inital current 61.5A after 1 hour 60.5A after 2 hours 59.4A after 2.5 hours 57.5A output voltage now up to 14.0V so I suspect it will taper faster now. after 3 hours, 43.4A, and output voltage is at 14.3V and 84% SOC after 3.5hours, 32A and 90% SOC So it basically held the 60A output for 2.5 hours before beginning to taper.
BFL13 04/14/14 01:11pm Tech Issues
RE: PD4655 Charging Graph

Excellent work! The thing that stands out most IMO is the "marker" for when to stop the gen at 90%. With Wets I find that to be at near 5 amps per 110AH of bank at 14.5v so for 300AH that would be when amps have tapered to 13.6a Here we see with 300AH of AGM (Lifeline type) 90% is reached at 30a or 10a per 100. So you could stop the gen sooner. My ugly graph with Wets shows a 50-90 on 300AH with 55amps would take 190 minutes. (300/220 x 139) The AGMs above took 150 minutes. Since both bulks are the same at 55a, the time saving with the AGMs has to be in a faster Absorption Stage at the same 14.4 voltage indicating a higher acceptance rate with AGMs during absorption. Perhaps the AGM guys can confirm/deny/elaborate on that aspect. I don't know AGMs well. Another consequence of that if correct, is you can get a shorter gen time by switching to AGMs instead of going to a higher amp charger with Wets. Could mean no fatter wiring either where you don't change the charger. With the OP info, it would be possible to estimate just how much time you could save either way and decide what each way would cost in dollars to change to that.
BFL13 04/14/14 10:55am Tech Issues
RE: Help with Basic Solar Set Up

I don't know the size of solar set you would need for that job, but whatever, disconnect the rig entirely by removing a wire from the battery bank so only the solar controller is on the bank. You don't want any draw opposing the solar trickle. Smk on here is always worried about how long the controller would keep the batts at 14.x each day while doing storage. You want to drop to Float voltage as early in the day as possible, so finding a controller that will do that is important.
BFL13 04/14/14 10:11am Tech Issues
RE: upgrading power converter

I tried to add ah64id to my charge % graph but I can't decipher the current scale to get charge % of ah capacity. .... 55a on 300ah is a 18.3% charging rate. His goes a bit longer in bulk per charging rate because my ugly graph was done with Vector chargers, which start tapering at 14v while his goes to 14.4. However, Vectors do not hold their voltage during stage 2 such as at a 14.4Vabs, but the voltage rises slowly from that 14v point to 14.6 or 14.8 by the end, so that holds the amps up during the absorption taper. I have a graph of that somewhere back about page 5 give or take of this thread, comparing a 103a PM3-100 with 105a worth of Vectors doing a 50-90.
BFL13 04/14/14 08:50am Tech Issues
RE: PV solar system charging voltage low

You need a lot more than 5 amps to raise the voltage on four low batts anytime soon. Not enough daylight time in a day. Or if they are not that low, perhaps there is a draw on them while you are trying to charge them at the same time?
BFL13 04/14/14 08:06am Tech Issues
RE: Uninstall Microwave

To keep control when undoing the hangers, put a car jack on a piece of wood or a pile of books to give it enough height on the stove top/counter and let that hold the MW up while you undo the hangers. Then crank the jack down to lower the MW until you can get hold of it. Put it back the same way only in reverse.
BFL13 04/14/14 07:37am Tech Issues
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