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 > Your search for posts made by 'BFL13' found 2064 matches.

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RE: Battery monitor: useful tool or toy?

I use the Trimetric as a voltmeter, ammeter, and AH counter that I can reset. (That reset is very important.) I especially like to compare voltage with AH count as a cross-check of "reasonableness" wrt each other. Using the voltmeter in between the furnace being on (lights and fans off) is close enough to "resting" to get an estimate of SOC using the usual guides like Trojan's 50% is 12.1v. Ignore advice that this is not "correct"--it is "close enough" while camping. If you have solar, take this "morning voltage" before the solar "wake-up" time. After that the solar charging increases the voltage. Unfortunately the Trimetric is very expensive and it appears you can get the same info from gizmos on eBay costing a fraction of what the Tri costs. It is true you can get by without a monitor, but once you have one, you would not like to go back :) BTW the monitor that goes with a solar controller is a waste of money since you can't make any use of its info. It only shows the AH the solar did, not the AH your battery bank saw. (Solar can run loads besides charge the batteries, so the solar AH count is not the same as the "real" AH count.)
BFL13 10/31/14 06:07pm Tech Issues
RE: What gauge wire?

The $102 Eco-Worthy 20amp MPPT is the lowest cost "real" MPPT but it can only do about 42-45 Voc input limit, so it can do one big panel (250w max?) but not two 12v panels in series. (22 +22=44) So that forces you to pay kazillions of dollars for MPPT just to run a couple of 12v panels and BTW you don't get any more amps with the MPPT unless you are at the North Pole. The MPPT method requires voltage and the panel loses voltage as soon as the sun gets on it, costing you amps. (you can't get anything with no sun and you lose when the sun is out!) So the money does not work out for going MPPT in this case just to be able to use some skinnier wire. Go parallel and PWM. You can wire it all sorts of ways, even use two PWM controllers (eBay $20 each) one for each panel and parallel them to the battery, or several other ways, doesn't matter, you will get your "expected amps" (two times the Isc of one panel) My 130w panel got its expected amps (its Isc of 8.2a) even on hot days (which badly degraded the MPPT set but had no effect on the PWM set)), on 45 ft one way of #8 as an example. IMO first try it on the existing wiring and if not satisfied, then get into improving the wiring.
BFL13 10/31/14 05:48pm Tech Issues
RE: Solar Question

It is obvious from the way we are all re-arranging the OP's life that it's all the OP's fault in the first place. If he were a proper BC native, he would restore and use one of these instead of riding that jet boat. Then he could carry those big solar panels plus carry batteries back and forth. In fact, he wouldn't need the cabin at all--just berth alongside where the cabin is now and live on board. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Steamboats_of_the_Upper_Fraser_River
BFL13 10/31/14 09:17am Tech Issues
RE: Solar Question

He has a jet boat. For all the giant solar stuff you guys are insisting on, then like the guy said in "Jaws", "You're going to need a bigger boat!"
BFL13 10/30/14 03:47pm Tech Issues
RE: Replacing a 55 amp converter with a 45?

Understood, Niner. And I guess I should have prefaced that the idyllic 1:1 ratio is a max charge rate, not necessarily an obtainable one. BTW, does anyone know how many amps can realistically be accepted, on say a 430Ah bank, at 50% dod? My ugly graph shows 70 amps on 220 with some constant amps time to it. That means you get the same time and curve with 140amps on 440AH. (which I do) You can go higher but it means you will have a very short time before hitting that acceptance rate curve where it goes vertical on the left so there is no point going higher. The taper then is a vertical dive at that end of the curve. Diminishing returns. The battery acceptance rate curve is its "natural acceptance rate" If you try to use more amps than that it just goes off as heat. If you use less than that, you are just wasting generator time. the amps get real low and the time long for that 90-100 part and that gives time for the "quality" of the recharge to settle in. That is also when the SG catches up right at the end too. See the SG lag drawing here for the recharge side: http://www.engineersedge.com/battery/specific_gravity_battery.htm
BFL13 10/30/14 02:40pm Tech Issues
RE: Replacing a 55 amp converter with a 45?

If you hit a 200AH bank at 50% SOC with a current limited charger doing 100a, I think amps would taper right away. On my ugly graph that would be way to the left on the vertical where there is no constant amps stage at all. It is still the old lower SOC at start of taper with a higher charging rate only now you have such a high charging rate, I think the SOC at start of taper would be less than 50% (at 14.x voltage) I had an ugly graph somewhere back when I had the bank of three 27s in the cold at 50% and hit them with the big amps. No constant amps, just a taper. Here is one--check A3 on the 27s when bank capacity was lower, increasing the charge rate from what it was at A1 http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/24849190.cfm
BFL13 10/30/14 11:26am Tech Issues
RE: Solar Question

Several examples (except these are not small ones) here scroll down http://www.wegosolar.com/pages.php?pageid=6
BFL13 10/30/14 10:05am Tech Issues
RE: Clearance lights not working.

Can you do Mex's trick and just apply the pos alligator clip to the lamp's positive? If the lamp's ground is good then the lights should still go on? Not sure how it would apply and I'm sure the OP knows this, but on ours, in daylight, the headlights don't come on just the truck's day running lights (which may not apply to American vehicles--I am not up to date on that) So to turn on the trailer's clearance lights in the daytime you have to switch the truck lights from "auto" to headlights.
BFL13 10/30/14 09:55am Tech Issues
RE: Solar Question

For just a battery maintainer you can use a low wattage panel and it does not have to be on the cabin roof in the shade. I have seen such cabins with the panel up a tree nearby where the tree-top is in the sun. You can use really long wire and it won't matter for this low amperage job.
BFL13 10/30/14 09:19am Tech Issues
RE: Clearance lights not working.

There was a thread a while ago where ISTR it turned out the guy's rig had the clearance lights at the back grounded from one of his tail lights (licence plate?) lower down which was grounded somewhere. So the pos wires to the lights are one thing and the neg wires another. Here is how ours are. The "running lights" are with the licence plate light. In ours the kingpin junction box is also a fuse holder and there is a cable hatch access door up under there where the 7-pin cord comes out from. http://i59.tinypic.com/idvplw.png
BFL13 10/30/14 06:42am Tech Issues
RE: New Interstate Pro ECL battery?

They seem to have almost the same specs as my old 27DCs at 675/850/180 Those are also marked as 120AH, but can't say the Pro ECLs are too. http://www.walmart.ca/en/ip/1643906-everstart-marine-battery-27dc-850n/6000016951063 The PRO ECL claim they are 27M Starting/Deep Cycle but with more life cycles 675/845/180 no AH mentioned
BFL13 10/29/14 07:13pm Tech Issues
RE: New Interstate Pro ECL battery?

Never heard of repetitive RC. First I thought it might have something to do with "progressive capacity loss" as with successive 50-90s but not clear. Anyway, more info needed but is interesting. So what is the price? As always, weigh one on a set of bathroom scales to estimate its AH capacity. http://www.interstatedealers.com/pdf/205930.pdf http://www.interstatebatteries.com/m/product/proECL/pro-ecl-retail
BFL13 10/29/14 05:40pm Tech Issues
RE: Solar Question

The OP didn't mention the security aspect. If you have a solar panel on the cabin will it be there when you get back in a couple weeks? If we allow (dubious) that 230w and MPPT will be enough for a trickle charge in the deep woods, then a typical cost for that "up here" is about $260 for the panel plus tax and $110 for the Eco-Worthy 20amp MPPT. So that is about $400 for this job, if it works and nobody steals the panel, instead of just taking the batts home between visits.
BFL13 10/29/14 05:23pm Tech Issues
RE: Measuring V loss during charging

As mentioned earlier, fuse holders are also high R sometimes. However they are like short skinny wire AFAIK. That is, you can get away with skinny wire if it is short, but not if it is long. You also have to consider the circumstances. I got my 13.8v Parallax 7355 doing great but I only use it on shore power, so who cares if it does better? Time doesn't matter like with generator charging. (I was thinking of swapping out that 7355 for a higher voltage charger, in which case that job would have been worth it) If you use a deck mount charger up front, by-passing all the high R stuff, it will do great anyway. IAW you can waste your effort improving things that don't matter in the actual scenario.
BFL13 10/29/14 04:52pm Tech Issues
RE: Measuring V loss during charging

Pretty soon somebody will mention Watts and ruin everything! :(
BFL13 10/29/14 03:02pm Tech Issues
RE: Measuring V loss during charging

The charger's voltage has to be higher than the battery's or there would be no current. There also has to be some R or there would be no current. I don't know if the higher charger voltage is from voltage drop or if it is itself a real amount. A charger does seem to have a voltage rating like 14.8v but is that "real?" I see lots of voltage drop as difference between charger and battery when the amps are high. The difference shrinks as amps taper. I don't know how much higher in voltage the charger "really is" out of that or if it is even correct to think like that.
BFL13 10/29/14 01:34pm Tech Issues
RE: What gauge wire?

Besides the actual voltage drop comparison between the low amps at "24v" and the higher amps at "12v" is that the voltage drop with PWM doesn't matter very much for getting your "expected amps." Those amps are based on getting the Isc of the panel to the battery It matters a lot for 24v MPPT which has the amps output very much affected by the voltage input to the controller. They are affected the same on the part from controller to battery though, which are both at "12v" http://www.calculator.net/voltage-drop-calculator.html?material=copper&wiresize=2.061&voltage=12&phase=dc&noofconductor=1&distance=35&distanceunit=feet&eres=18&x=49&y=10
BFL13 10/29/14 12:40pm Tech Issues
RE: Measuring V loss during charging

I used the voltmeter trick (Salvo taught me this) to get the R by adding about 25 ft of speaker wire to one of the voltmeter leads (doesn't matter which one you pick) and alligator clamp ends.(you can't be in two places at once :) ) That long speaker wire did not affect the voltage readings. I got my amps from the Trimetric for converter-battery paths. This let me measure between the "battery lugs" at the DC fuse panel inside the trailer out the door and up to the batteries in front. You get one R for the positive path and another for the neg path. The neg path could be much less than the positive path because it uses the trailer's frame, and the positive has that skinny wire and maybe a switch. (switches and fuse holders are bad for R) It is the total of the two Rs that counts for what amps you will get to the battery from the converter. First priority is to reduce the R of the positive path which is the big R. You can also make some improvements to the neg path if there is any corrosion at the frame contact points for the short neg path wires. Progress was measured by the increased amps when R was reduced. There is a limit where there is no point in reducing R anymore once the converter is at its max amps. It is better not to use the batteries for this testing because they have so much R themselves (more on that below) and it keeps changing. Best to get a big draw on the batts from the inverter running a kettle and see the amps for that, then turn on the converter and see how many amps the Trimetric shows then. Eg, converter off, kettle on, Tri shows -90amps. Turn on converter, kettle still on, Tri shows -60amps. Means the converter is doing 30 amps. I was able to reduce total R by various means so that the 7355 was doing 56 amps. However on the same paths total R with actual battery charging on low batts, the amps start off at more like 45a and taper quickly to the 30s-mid 20s. That is way better than before though! And at 13.8v too. http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/26711816/srt/pa/pging/1/page/3.cfm
BFL13 10/29/14 12:27pm Tech Issues
RE: What gauge wire?

The "run" is the one-way distance? Panels in series 9a, 44V; in parallel 18a, 22v This calculator uses the one-way distance so it is easy to use http://www.calculator.net/voltage-drop-calculator.html?material=copper&wiresize=2.061&voltage=12&phase=dc&noofconductor=1&distance=35&distanceunit=feet&eres=18&x=49&y=10
BFL13 10/29/14 11:56am Tech Issues
RE: Replacing a 55 amp converter with a 45?

Yeah, she's holed up in a coral reef somewhere last I heard. Recent sighting--- http://the.honoluluadvertiser.com/dailypix/2004/Aug/17/ln03a1_b.jpg width=640 Looks like she just got back from the beauty parlour there. Here is what she looks like first thing in the morning http://i60.tinypic.com/n2lmhz.jpg
BFL13 10/29/14 06:30am Tech Issues
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