"... My solution was to plug the shore cord into the trailer with the converter on, and then plug the A/C into the inverter. That way the batteries took the surge and the generator then had no issues with the 450w running load"
Jim, the others seem to understand this, but I don't. :( Please explain what is plugged into what so that even I can understand it. EG, How do you plug the shore cord into the trailer? When you say inverter do you also mean inverter-gen like some folks do? Thanks.
I have never seen one of those. The button is interesting. IMO take the top off as when attaching wire lugs. Might then see what it does between those two red (pos) wires. Are they the same wire path or two different circuits? Is the thing on the battery post too or just lying there in the battery box to keep it out of the weather?
It seems to be a sort of buss that keeps those pos wires up, clear of the neg wires. Pos and neg wires are all criss-crossed. You could just turn the battery 180 degrees and then the neg and pos battery posts would be nearest where their wires are going to.
The buss thing might still be useful, since it is better to have only one lug on the battery post instead of stacking a bunch of lugs. Depends on the lug shape how many is too many--some are fat and lumpy and some are thin and flat.
Ok, what does this tell you....I removed the fuse for the propane detector and it's still beeping.
I've tested it when it's beeping and when it hasn't and and every time it's the same result: 13.7 or so. Today it's beeped a lot less. Only a few times since sundown rather than regularly.
So that was the wrong fuse. Had to be. Anyway, whatever is going on there, if the wiring is mixed up somewhere, you might have problems with the new detector too.
The advice to replace the detector every five years is correct I suppose. Like the fire alarm perhaps, where the sensor gets dulled after a time.
I didn't know about the five year rule until recently, and just went by the flashing green light telling me it is ok. It is from 2002. A couple months ago I was equalizing and lots of battery fumes happening and the LP alarm sounded off, indicating nasty fumes. So it did that, but that was not LP fumes, it was battery fumes.
I put a brand new one in the truck camper we got and it went off with battery fumes too. (Battery box is inside--old camper didn't have any LP alarm) So I swapped to AGM battery. Also added a CO detector since it is a camper on a truck that has an exhaust. The trailer has no engine. Been told on here in a thread about that, the latest thing is to put a CO detector in the trailer anyway.
Then we got into here, where it goes because the CO detector also acts as the LP detector with some models. LP detector is supposed to be floor level for heavy propane but the CO detector should be higher up to be in the lighter CO. No problem, I have the LP one at floor level and the CO one on a wall half way up. Then there is the fire alarm on the ceiling. :)
BTW I think you can get AA/AAA battery powered alarms, so if you can't resolve the mystery wiring for that one, you could use that kind instead. But then you have to remember to keep changing the little batteries.
IMO only good reason for more batteries is to keep the inverter from alarming off at 11v when you make your morning toast.
my 1000W PSW Cantire inverter sounds off at 11.7V
And that happens when pulling 900W AC from my 4 GC2's for any length of time.
And it's NOT the cables!!!
Maybe I need a new inverter. Or AGM or GRP 31 batteries. Or ...
Easy. Take the inverter apart--lots of tiny black screws-- find the beeper and wreck it. No more annoying noises. I do that with microwaves. I hate beeping :( Also lets me use the MW while DW is still asleep. Also the inverter won't wake up DW and the whole campground.
The inverter beep is just to save your batteries from going flat but you already have a voltmeter for that.
different sg from different battery makers or different batteries will yield different voltage @ the same temp.
I wouldn't be concerned with a voltage of 12.6 in the morning. I sometimes average 12.0 or even lower. As soon as sun hits the solar panel, the voltage is rising. In a perfect world, batteries should only be drawn down to an 80% level for most efficient use. I may increase my battery capacity so that I can get close to 80%.
Just means lugging around extra weight of AHs you will never use (50-80) IMO only good reason for more batteries is to keep the inverter from alarming off at 11v when you make your morning toast.
I removed it last night and there is no fuse so I buried it with a towel. After I woke up it was beeping every 30 seconds. Tested it and it's getting full power. Turned it around so it is facing the opening to the basement and it's not chirping. But then again it's daytime again. Haven't open the doors. No change in ventilation. It seems to be connected to the solar panel somehow. I'll get out the schematic and see what else is on that circuit. I put LED bulbs in the bedroom lights for the first time and they flicker when the furnace is running. Just a little. Maybe it is detecting propane. Tiny amounts. But I hasn't chirped for about six years. I've had it streaming out of the burner at times when the spark or failed to ignite. Never went off then. 3 feet away. ?
It has input voltage, but is it the same voltage as battery voltage measured at the posts, same as solar controller output, day, night?
Am thinking maybe identify where it is getting its voltage from when it is beeping and then during the day by seeing it is the same voltage as someplace but different from some other place.
Does the beeping go with how it shows low voltage, which on mine is different from how it indicates nasty fumes.
On mine after the low voltage gets down to near zip, it won't beep because it has no power anymore. Yours beeps all night, so what is it saying?
Interesting mystery. You can't just borrow one and try it before buying a new one usually, so be worth a bit of trouble shooting with this one first considering the cost of a new one.
If you can get it to do that beeping again at night, you could take it out with it still connected and beeping and measure the input voltage with your meter to see if it is indeed low voltage making it beep. If the voltage is good and it is beeping, no ideas. it doesn't beep during the day.
If it is low voltage, then you have a mystery why it is low when the batts are ok. Some chasing around with the voltmeter needed.
What about the radio? How is it at night while the alarm is beeping? On ours the radio and the LP alarm are on the same circuit direct to battery by-passing the "battery disconnect switch."
Or the alarm could actually be working where at night you close the door and windows so whatever fumes are setting it off are stronger inside than during the day when there is more ventilation.. Or the furnace only comes on at night, and there is something nasty down a floor level heating register close to the LP alarm.
"....with Deka which call for lower and slower charging so I'll be re-programing. AGM's as you know also require quite a bit lower charge voltages than the Trojan and Interstates wet cell batteries like."
AGMs do vary by brand and type for charging specs. Mine want about the same as Trojan and Interstate Flooded for charging and Float. Some other brand/types do want lower voltage charging.
IMO make sure about that "slower." A lower charging voltage does not necessarily mean a slower charger rate too. LY has posted his AGM hates low and slow. (bringing up whether that AGM is suitable for being on solar)
It's been 2 hours of battery rest. Down to 12.6v. All the batteries are reading almost the same amount of voltage. Trying to figure out, if it's not the batteries what it could be. Camping world guy said that if the remote inverter/charger panel is showing they're charging then the charger should be working. (13.5-14v is what it shows) So then it would likely be the propane detector? If it was that wouldn't it be malfunctioning day and night regardless of the weather?
You can disconnect the detector by taking the panel out and in the back is a small fuse you can remove.
It sure seems like low voltage alarm from when the solar slows down as it gets dark. That means the charger in the inverter/charger is not getting to the batteries even though the charger itself is working (voltmeter proves that?).
Something wrong along the way there, needs a voltmeter to follow the path and find the "open."
BTW the original LP alarm in our trailer still works just fine (it alarmed from battery fumes while equalizing them the other day) from 2002, so don't automatically assume it needs replacing just because it is five years old.
This applies to another brand /type of solar controller, but may also be what you are seeing with the Bogart. BTW the Bogart tech support is very good, so there must be a good reason for your delay.
"STEP 2: Test FET’s (power transistors) – A unit with an shorted FET will not charge a
battery. One with an open FET may overcharge the battery.....
A very high reading (16-20 volts*) would indicate an open FET, or very low reading (2-5
volts*) would indicate a shorted FET. Units with open or short FET’s are defective
PT, sorry for your bad luck with generators (and inverters).
On equalizing as a measure of solar required, most folks would never have to do that on solar. They can equalize other ways--such as when on shore power from time to time.
Why tell somebody they need so much solar to just go camping? All they need is a way to stretch out the time before their batteries get down too far before going home and plugging in.
There is no sense in advising people to put more solar on the roof and forget the portable solar, when their scenario is that the roof is under trees and the portable is set out where it can catch some rays.
If somebody is adding solar and wants to use a second controller with the added solar, instead of tossing his existing set-up, why not? It works.
It is all situational for what is the best advice.
It is amusing to read PT and Almot pontificating on how the way many of us do our solar is wrong, silly, or just awful. Newsflash! Other ways do work just fine thank you very much. :)
BTW, my idea of an energy audit it to actually go camping and see how that works for you and DW. Then adjust as required.
IMO you don't know what you need or want until you go camping a few times and learn what is possible. You start with what the rig came with and what you can do with that, then find ways to renovate. More trips away the more you discover you can renovate to do more.
So IMO you can't read up on what somebody does with his and get it right the first time. You should be able to build on what you started with. Now THAT can be the tricky part--to know enough to have a starting set-up that can be expanded, and not have to be tossed and replaced.
All assumes you will want to do more. Some folks take pride in doing with less--just weird. They should all go on a "Downed Pilot Training Course" instead of going Rving. Eat bugs and sleep in mud muddles. :)
These fuse questions are nearly all the same.
A. Do you wire the inverter for what it is rated for including surge? or just what it is rated for continuous?
B. Do you wire the inverter only for as much load as you will ever be running?
C. You do fuse for the wire you did actually use, whatever you chose for wire.
D. The fuse must go near the battery positive post--some rules say "within 18". What if the inverter-battery wire is only 18" long?--no fuse and let the wire be the fuse?
E. Slow blow vs fast blow fuse--you want a slow blow so short surges won't blow it---so then back to A.--do you fuse for surge if it will only be so short your slow blow fuse won't blow anyway?
F. If the wire is all up front and visible so you can see if it is melting or at least turning a burnt sort of colour, do you even need a fuse, where you certainly would if the wire went through a wall out of sight-- and if it melted inside the wall.
Some inverter specs call for more of a fuse and fatter wire for the same size of inverter than others. Seems to turn on whether to wire and fuse for surge or not where surge is often twice the normal rating.
The one I have has the 12v thing too, but I am not interested in it. it is actually the King 951G it says on it , not the 950G, but I don't know the diff. Mine has 2HP written on it, and the 950 might be 1.5HP 63cc from its specs not sure. Anyway it sure seems to be the same as the HF one.
My new recoil starter is coming from Hong Kong if that tells us anything. :)
That's part # `102-95 all assembled
So they make and sell enough of these recoil starter things to make it worth while, and feed the workers, and they can send them from Hong Kong free shipping for $13.99 (Can) = $10.65 US ? Holy Cow, the plastic parts in them must be there for a good reason! :(
So poor Mr Yang, who has been tossed into the re-education camp for no good reason, is told to start making recoil starters and no screw-ups or else he gets the living s-- kicked out of him three times a day instead of just two times a day like normal?
Gottaluv it! :(
The real story in that picture is the useless awning! We have the same problem, where if you lower it enough to do any good, you can't get the door open. My next RV will have the awning on one side and the door on the other!
Tried the whole extra piece of "awning" "screen" to hang down farther, but what a huge PITA to get it all rigged. Bungees and clamps gone mad! Instead of that little flap, they need to already come with the flap as a longer roll-down piece you can then hold to the ground with tent pegs. :(
On my 22' Montara ('93) there is room for two 130w Kyocera panels mounted lengthwise in front of the ac and one 140w panel mounted sideways behind the ac for a 400W total. With a Rogue MPT 3024 controller on this partly cloudy S. Texas day (11AM) the output feeding 4 US2200 batteries (464AH) is 13v / 10 - 18 amps.
Battery charge is usually @ 12.4V when I start my day at 5AM and the generator will run until the Rogue starts to put out > 12.7 which then carries me thru the day. I run two 18" laptops and two 21" monitors from 5AM until 4PM so my draw is likely higher than most, but even so, solar is cheap and you can never have to much. The panels are wired in series outputting 12V and have thought if a forth panel was added I'd go parallel for 24V and a Winter power boost. However, with that setup there may be an issue with the max wattage the controller will tolerate and given the short distances involved, voltage drop is not really a concern.
You got your series and parallel reversed, Maybe edit the post? If you do then I will delete this post.
You can still equalize if you split the bank and take a couple or three days to get it all done. Run up the whole bank as high as possible to near full, restraining your 12v usage for the occasion, then split the bank, and leave half no load till next day, running the rig on the other half. Now next day just apply the solar to the full half and get it equalized.
Now switch over to put the rig on that half and start to work on the other half which now is fairly low. Run it up the rest of the day and into the next day to get it full and then if you can that same day, equalize it.
If it doesn't finish getting equalized, do the rest next morning. So that got both halves all done up, but now the first half is desperate for some solar, so link the batteries all up as one bank again, and carry on till next time to equalize in maybe another three months? You don't have to equalize very often if you are getting close to full most days.