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 > Your search for posts made by 'BFL13' found 2012 matches.

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RE: Adjustable Voltage Boondocker Converter Question

Nobody would know about the thermistors if not for me, so it is all my fault! There are kabillions of happy PowerMax customers and my problems were over three years ago with the models back then. Which PowerMax addressed. IMO just use your unit and enjoy. If you have a problem, use the warranty provided. On a tech note per this forum, the thermistor is just one component in the 120v "front end", and it could be an "issue" and the "fix" could be changes to it or the rest of the "front end" or both. I don't know if PowerMax changed the whole front end or just the thermistors to solve the problems back then, but they did something, so IMO you just have to use the unit as you would like a regular human and see how it goes. If it smokes, use the warranty, but don't be gun-shy because of me from some years ago. BTW, I am told that PowerMax is working on a new design of the "front end" which does not use a thermistor at all.
BFL13 05/28/15 09:30pm Tech Issues
RE: Adjustable Voltage Boondocker Converter Question

You can take the lid off and read the numbers letters on the thermistor. You can find the specs for that thermistor on the www and also post that here. Salvo and others can comment on whether it is a good fit. You can also ask PM tech support if that is the upgraded size for the 75 or not. My 100 amper may have less margin for chosen thermistor than the 75 and its chosen thermistor so the 75 may be less trouble there anyway. Yes I was able to replace the thermistor myself but that doesn't mean anybody could! :)
BFL13 05/28/15 04:28pm Tech Issues
RE: Capacity Testing and 20 HR Rating

IMO move the controller farther away from the batteries to where it is easy to keep it cool. Never mind the additional line loss if any (just use fatter wire if practicable) I figure you will lose less by that additional line loss than by having such a hot controller with that reduction in efficiency, especially when you need cooling fans for it (that might not do much good with a "closed box" controller to cool its insides) subtracting from gains too. Controller life might be shortened too if hot at lot? The batteries will still get charged up even with the controller farther away. If it takes a bit longer to charge them up, that helps with your concern over too long at Vabs before dark too.
BFL13 05/28/15 01:49pm Tech Issues
RE: Adjustable Voltage Boondocker Converter Question

You must talk to Errin himself. He is very concerned about this kind of thing, but won't do much if the customer won't send the unit back so PM can test it for themselves to see if the customer has it right. PM will make it right once they can see for themselves. This is no different from anybody else's warranty policy. Till recently, the 75s had three fuses and the 100s four with a bigger heavier chassis too. Errin says the latest PMs have fewer fuses than before, but I don't have the details on that.' Randy only shows a 75 as the biggest he sells on his site, so I don't know where he would get a 100 to sell unless he has a way that he does not advertise.
BFL13 05/27/15 08:49pm Tech Issues
RE: Matching AGM Batteries to PD9245

REQUEST FOR INFORMATION :) Which portable generator models are suitable for a 9280? By the way - unrelated - WOOT.com had a WESTINGHOUSE inverter generator 2,200 watts offered last night for four hundred dollars, and high change... The 9280 is not PF corrected, so it needs a 20a circuit to plug into. (see specs) It should not run on a Honda 2000w, but Fisherguy says his does. It would run on a Honda 3000 which has a 23.3a (AC) spec. There is a Yamaha 2400 that might just do it where a Honda 2000 should not, but I am not familiar with the Yamaha specs or performances. I use my PowerMax 100 amper, which is PF corrected, that I twiddled the voltage pot to be 14.8v, and it runs on a 15a circuit no sweat. I would not touch the PD 80 amper 14.4v job with a barge pole, when I can use my 100a PowerMax 14.8v (as set by me) charger instead with less draw on the generator.
BFL13 05/27/15 06:38pm Tech Issues
RE: Capacity Testing and 20 HR Rating

My Can Tire (Xantrex built) 1000w PSW inverter (Spec says 1000w continuous rating NOT 900w) ran the 700w Danby microwave ( wants 1050w input) just fine several times and then it went poof. Took the lid off and there was a nasty looking black splotch around one area of the circuit board. Beyond my DIY skills :( When it was doing ok running the microwave, it was showing 1050 on its watt meter display and the yellow overload lamp was on. (being over 1000w at the time) It was drawing around 100a according to the Trimetric, which is correct according to the "divide by 10" rule. That's all I know about that. Somebody else's same model inverter might do better or worse, no idea.
BFL13 05/27/15 06:35pm Tech Issues
RE: 60 Cell Panel vs 24v Bank and MPPT vs PWM at 24-24

The question arose during a thread recently, whether a 60 cell panel could get a bank to 30v in the same way as a 36 cell panel could a 12v bank, where a 32 cell panel was proven inadequate with a 12v bank. This test was to see if indeed a 60 cell panel would be able to recharge a 24v bank, and it turns out it can. There may be issues at lower light, lower voltage where a 72 cell panel would "outshine" (ha! ) the 60 , but this is what happened today. I need to see if there is any advantage in going PWM for high panel temps, but that is a different "issue" to be tested for in July.
BFL13 05/27/15 06:19pm Tech Issues
RE: 60 Cell Panel vs 24v Bank and MPPT vs PWM at 24-24

Jim, thanks for the tests you already did, showing the Eco-W gets as many amps out as the fancy controller. The fancy features are what is being paid extra for, not for more amps. The controllers were at ambient 20C in a light breeze off the sea, so no overheating issues. The panel and controllers are performing to spec. It does look like there is still a small penalty in the MPPT buck conversion, which the PWM doesn't have but it is tiny. So 24-24 if you already have a 12/24 controller, either type will do the job.
BFL13 05/27/15 05:45pm Tech Issues
60 Cell Panel vs 24v Bank and MPPT vs PWM at 24-24

Got a chance to run this test today with no clouds but a slight haze up high so not quite 1000 insolation, showed as 8.93Isc vs rated 9.0, however that did not affect the tests as such. 255w panel tracking aimed at sun. Started with the 458AH bank disconnected from rig ( it was running on a spare 12v meanwhile) at approx. 75% SOC (very approx.!) at 25.4 volts. panel Voc 35.2, 46C , Isc 7.6 Using the Solar30 PWM controller set to 30.0 volts Vabs: 0845- 25.7v x 7.3a = 188w 0945- 26.5v x 8.1a = 215w 1115- 27.4v x 8.1a = 222w 1215- 28.9v x 7.6a = 220w 1230- 29.5v x 7.2a = 212w 1245- 30.0v x 6.8a = 204w So yes, a 60 cell panel can get the batts to 30 volts no sweat. You can see the amps started to taper towards the end with SOC maybe 92% or so. Could be a touch of IV curve drop in I above 28v in there too. ------------- While at it, I swapped over to the Eco-Worthy MPPT with bank at 24v 1115- 27.4v x 8.0 = 219w compares with PWM at 1115 above. So as with the first test of MPPT vs PWM at 24-24 I did with my old 230w panel, they come out nearly equal for amps to the battery at 45C panel temp. One new thing I have not figured out yet is that the PWM controller was not passing through the actual panel Isc as taken disconnected, but something less than that. eg, Isc 7.6a, vs 7.3a to battery, and 8.2 vs 8.0 etc. The IV curves don't show that much drop in I so the controller must be eating some. Not sure--needs more study :) I was hoping with a rated 9.0 Isc, I would get that to the battery with PWM in 24v mode, which would be like 18a in 12v mode, but it looks like this won't quite happen. When I do the hot panel tests this summer, I will check on that some more.
BFL13 05/27/15 02:51pm Tech Issues
RE: Electrical Problem...Need suggestions

Thank you to all that assisted with your suggestions. Great time and money saver! The battery was the culprit. New battery and the season is officially underway. Much appreciated. Peter Wrong. Even with a dead battery, your converter powered by the 120v should have supplied the 12v. All you did was put in a new battery, (which was needed most likely), but with no converter working that battery will also soon die. With 120v on, measure the voltage at the battery posts. It should be at least 13.6v if the converter is working and the "12v" juice is getting as far as the battery.
BFL13 05/26/15 06:34pm Tech Issues
RE: Pmp temp coefficient math?

Yes panel temp has nothing to do with insolation. Mystery why they choose 800 to go with their NOCT (45C) list of specs. Topic raised in my thread on panel to controller loss near the end for 25/26 May. here is my post on that: Posted: 05/26/15 09:17am Link | Quote | Edit | Print | Notify Moderator "How can you be a NOCT doing 1000 thingies? And how are you measuring irradiance? " It is normal for the panel temperature to be high when the panel is out in the sun. Usually about 20- 25C above ambient. So whatever the insolation amount is , the panel will be hot and so below its rated wattage. The spac coefficient for that power loss lets you calculate that loss. Eg, the earlier mentioned 45C -25C = 20C difference and -o.43%/C times 20 is 8.6% and 8.6% of 255w is 22w, so panel wattage now at 255-22 = 233w Meanwhile the panel spec for NOCT of 45C, also uses 800 form some reason. It could be anything including 1000, but they picked 800 and give the specs for 45C and 800, which are fairly low: 185W, Vmp 27.5, Imp 6.71, Voc 34.4, Isc 7.29 However, at the time I measured Voc at 35.1 (37.4 at STC), Isc at 9.12 (9.00 at STC) and panel at 45C. ( was about 20C ambient) So my calculation, seeing 215w output (12.7v x 17a) and starting with that 233w panel, is that the missing 18w went to 4w for line loss as measured and that leaves 14w for controller loss, which came out as reasonable with 1.7% line loss and 94% controller efficiency. I use the Isc as my indicator for being at or over 1000 insolation because it does not go down with panel temp but rises a little, so IMO 9.12 vs 9 says insolation was about 1000. So that is the normal situation, with a hot panel and good insolation. IMO listing the panel spec for NOCT with 800 is misleading. If they changed the N to mean "normal" instead of "nominal" (whatever "nominal" is supposed to mean !) then IMO they could list the likely specs for a panel temp of 45C and 1000 insolation, like I usually get. Actually I usually see 50C panel in July and August so panel wattage is even lower. That would mean they have to admit that it is "normal" for the so-called 255w panel to be at 233w !
BFL13 05/26/15 06:11pm Tech Issues
RE: Solar-Panel to Controller Loss

Thanks for the links! I will try to measure any difference this summer with the lid on the controller off. Buck converters do get warm and there was an article somewhere about solar controllers with them needing cooling too but they don't come with vents and fans, so they get hot "inside the box" and you lose output.
BFL13 05/26/15 11:44am Tech Issues
RE: Solar-Panel to Controller Loss

"How can you be a NOCT doing 1000 thingies? And how are you measuring irradiance? " It is normal for the panel temperature to be high when the panel is out in the sun. Usually about 20- 25C above ambient. So whatever the insolation amount is , the panel will be hot and so below its rated wattage. The spac coefficient for that power loss lets you calculate that loss. Eg, the earlier mentioned 45C -25C = 20C difference and -o.43%/C times 20 is 8.6% and 8.6% of 255w is 22w, so panel wattage now at 255-22 = 233w Meanwhile the panel spec for NOCT of 45C, also uses 800 form some reason. It could be anything including 1000, but they picked 800 and give the specs for 45C and 800, which are fairly low: 185W, Vmp 27.5, Imp 6.71, Voc 34.4, Isc 7.29 However, at the time I measured Voc at 35.1 (37.4 at STC), Isc at 9.12 (9.00 at STC) and panel at 45C. ( was about 20C ambient) So my calculation, seeing 215w output (12.7v x 17a) and starting with that 233w panel, is that the missing 18w went to 4w for line loss as measured and that leaves 14w for controller loss, which came out as reasonable with 1.7% line loss and 94% controller efficiency. I use the Isc as my indicator for being at or over 1000 insolation because it does not go down with panel temp but rises a little, so IMO 9.12 vs 9 says insolation was about 1000. So that is the normal situation, with a hot panel and good insolation. IMO listing the panel spec for NOCT with 800 is misleading. If they changed the N to mean "normal" instead of "nominal" (whatever "nominal" is supposed to mean !) then IMO they could list the likely specs for a panel temp of 45C and 1000 insolation, like I usually get. Actually I usually see 50C panel in July and August so panel wattage is even lower. That would mean they have to admit that it is "normal" for the so-called 255w panel to be at 233w ! I still have to run tests to see PWM 24-24 with a panel at 50C compared with 24-24 MPPT and 24-12 MPPT, but that has to wait a month or so.
BFL13 05/26/15 10:17am Tech Issues
RE: Eco worthy 20a MPPT vs TS-MPPT-60 and series test

When you are camping above the clouds, how can it rain? :)
BFL13 05/25/15 06:39pm Tech Issues
RE: Solar-Panel to Controller Loss

Another thing with the Salvo method vs just taking the voltage at each end, is that I was able to identify that it was the neg connection at the panel pigtails vs the pos connection that needed fixing. (As shown in the figures provided earlier in this thread)
BFL13 05/25/15 06:37pm Tech Issues
RE: Solar-Panel to Controller Loss

The thing now is the stupid NOCT rating they give goes with 800 thingies. But my panel was at NOCT doing 1000 thingies, so the NOCT specs are useless. So if you are at 1000 thingies, use the voltage drop coefficient for the temperature 45C vs 25C (twenty times) and do that to get your presumed panel wattage and ignore the stupid NOCT values they give. How many times will you ever see NOCT and 800 at the same time? Totally useless!!! :(
BFL13 05/25/15 06:20pm Tech Issues
RE: Solar-Panel to Controller Loss

Yes it is all about 24-12 vs 12-12 but you can also do PWM 24-24. I should have made that clear. Yes you can measure the voltage at one end and then the other as long as it doesn't change on the way between taking readings (Good luck with that!) I did mention that my Salvo method result came out pretty close to the other way's at about 0.5 each, which gives you a warm fuzzy that they "match" when you are doing all this scientific stuff :)
BFL13 05/25/15 06:00pm Tech Issues
RE: Solar question - 12v versus 24v

The controller is more efficient (more watts out for the watts into it, when not stepping down from 24 panel to 12v battery than doing 12-12, so yo would gain amperage there, but OTOH the higher panel voltage gives more room for the controller to do anything in lower light conditions when there is less wattage from the lower voltage coming in. So it is possible one could be better than the other sometimes and the other way better other times. Seems like you are getting good results now, so I agree---leave it be and enjoy your solar :)
BFL13 05/25/15 01:38pm Tech Issues
RE: Solar-Panel to Controller Loss

I cleaned up the path somewhat based on the results of the Salvo check as posted earlier, was: P-A Pos 0.07, Neg 0.15 = 0.22 P-B Pos 0.14, Neg 0.21 = 0.35 P-C Pos 0.23, Neg 0.29 = 0.52 Now: P-A Pos 0.06, Neg 0.07 = 0.13 P-C-Pos o.19, Neg 0.19 = 0.38 (eliminated section A-B and fixed neg at panel pigtail that was 0.15 before) Can't do any more with connections. P-A is fat wire and A-C is thinner wire but not worth changing that. Vmp at the panel end was 29.2 at the time of this check, so the loss is 0.38/29.2 = 1.3% As noted earlier it doesn't make a lot of difference at the Imp of 8ish amps, but with a larger array it would. (Good point about that!) Might also need to take this path R into account when choosing series vs parallel I suppose. BTW I noted the panel temperature of the tilted up facing sun panel was 45C near the top and 41C near the bottom. (heat rises?) Thatmeans the cells nearer the top have lower voltage while all 60 cells are in series, so the voltage you get out of the panel pigtails is the result of that. Not a big deal, but might make you prop the panel up sideways instead of the long ways :)
BFL13 05/25/15 09:46am Tech Issues
RE: Sine Wave Inverter Anomaly

Ignore the non-problem! :) I had that same inverter and it is the same as the Honda gen for that ground business. My other MSW inverters show all three lights on when you use the three light tester. Just ignore all that, it means nothing for running 120v things in the RV. If you have the gizmo that needs the fake bonding plug for the Honda, the inverter might not need it, but just do what it takes. I can say with the PSW 1000 that I had one funny issue with its chassis ground connected and my battery disconnect switch on the neg side, that when the shore power cord was plugged into the inverter, the battery disconnect did not cut off the 12v to the rig anymore. Turned out there was still a neg path through the inverter via the chassis ground to frame and the shore cord ground prong in the receptacle. I simply disconnected the inverter chassis ground. (it is just for reducing RF anyway) That didn't happen with the Vector inverter which has GFCI receptacles. All too complicated.
BFL13 05/24/15 01:59pm Tech Issues
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