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 > Your search for posts made by 'BFL13' found 1352 matches.

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RE: Couple of battery voltage & charging question

In your shoes I would use the wizard to reduce the voltage to 13.2. PT, you don't even know what AGM he has and its specs, so whyinheck would you tell him that?????? Come on. :(
BFL13 08/17/17 06:24pm Tech Issues
RE: Couple of battery voltage & charging question

AGMs come in different "brands/types" which have different charging specs and resting voltages so there is no way to answer your question without knowing the exact battery you have so we can look up the specs for it--or you could do that yourself. :) EG only, my particular AGM battery wants about 14.8v for charging and then to let it float at about 13.7v. It rests at full at 13.0v (not 12.7v like a flooded battery). Of course you can save some battery juice by plugging in shore power and letting the converter do the work instead of the battery. How much that is "worth" depends. If you were going to spend that night on the one battery with no shore power it would be worth a lot more than if you were just about to plug in shore power. The only way to tell if your AGM is truly full on a recharge is to check the amps it is accepting with no load on the battery, just the charger charging it. This means you need an ammeter on the job. If it does not get truly full, it will sulfate. That is accumulative, and eventually cannot be reversed by "conditioning." IMO, the way you are operating, you might be slowly sulfating that AGM and be in the market for a new one "early" compared with somebody who is "battery conscious." That might not matter in the big picture for your budget and how you camp etc. How much "hassle" is "worth it?" Nobody knows except you.
BFL13 08/17/17 06:15pm Tech Issues
RE: Max Charging Current of typical GC2 battery

I'll give you a pro tip here and it's for Trojan T105's but is applicable to other GC2's if used with care.. it's all about max heat capacity, for a T105 the best figure I would use is 0.05 watts per Ah. a T105 has an internal resistance of 0.003 Ohms . so that's 0.001 Ohms per 2 volt cell. The max thermal charge limit is square root of (.05 x 225Ah) / .001 = 106 amps. yes.. you can charge a T105 at this rate.. this is approx c/2 I wouldn't advise you do this often, but it can be done. Somebody a few years back posted that he was talking to a Trojan tech support guy about all this, and he said the Trojans could accept any amount of amps at first. The whole thing is based on the simple fact that the acceptance rate at any SOC depends on the voltage. If you are at a lower SOC then at any same voltage the batt will accept more amps than at a higher SOC. (which is why amps taper in the Absorption Stage). For the same SOC, jack up the voltage, and it will accept more amps. If you hit the batt with a huge amps rate, the voltage will spike and amps will immediately taper to what the battery will accept. You can see in my ugly graph above how that works where there is a diminishing returns in going to higher amps for how long it takes to do a 50-90. Even if the battery will accept way more amps, you might only save 10 minutes of generator time going to a 70 vs a 55, so why pay way more for a way higher amp charger and then need a way higher wattage generator to run that higher amp charger, just to save 10 minutes of gen time? OTOH there is a big diff in time between 55 and 35 amps on 220AH. (You double the times for doubling the AH at the same amps, BUT you do not halve the charging time on the same AH by doubling the charging amps.) You have to do a proper analysis of the whole picture to decide on your best bet for a set up for how you (not some other guy) camps. Meanwhile--yes, on solar it is not always possible to get to full each day. You can go days and days with an incomplete recharge, and get sulfated. Later on, when the sun shines and you can get to full, it does not mean you are out of the woods. You still need to desulfate from all that time earlier on. You can avoid a lot of that if the weather forecast is any good, by doing a bit of gen charging in the morning so there is time for the solar to catch up that same day and get it done. Above, I described winter camping, but here in August on solar it is way different. Gottaluvit! Who cares about batteries? It is all about corn on the cob, BBQ steaks, and picking blackberries for dessert (after a swim up at the lake of course) :)
BFL13 08/16/17 06:40pm Tech Issues
RE: Max Charging Current of typical GC2 battery

The usual 10% charging rate recommendations are for longer battery life as measured in number of cycles. Meanwhile an RVer has to meet camping situations and get it done. My requirement is to do 50-90s in two hours or a few minutes more (generator hours as set by the campground) if I cheat, and that 40% recharge has to be enough AHs to get me by till the next recharge. I know I use about 70AH a day in summer plus at least another 70 in winter, so to get by in winter using 140AH where that is 40%, that means I need a bank with 350AH or more. So that is four batteries at 440AH (but that is at 25C and this is winter at 5C, so knock 10-15% off that 440 and you get say 380AH and your 50-90 is now about 152AH, which is enough to get by. OK so how to replace 152AH in two hours? See ugly graph where the 70amps did it on a 220AH bank. This is a 380AH bank so 380/220 x 70 = 121 amps. I need a generator that can run a charger doing at least 121 amps and a 121 amp charger. Turns out my 3000w Honda can handle 130amps worth of non-PF corrected chargers before popping a breaker. My collection of Vector chargers could do 130a. Since then I have gone over to PowerMax adjustable converters, and their 100 amper is PF corrected. The Honda can run it and a PM3-55 amper without popping its breaker for a total of 155 amps initial charge. I crank the voltage to 15.2v at 5C which is the same as 14.8v at 25C. (Good luck with your 14.4v converter :( ) Target has been met and then some. Which is good because the furnace can use over 100AH a night and it is dark longer and so forth, so it can be 200AH a day --BTDT several times. So how to get by really? Going to need more battery bank and cheat some on the two hours even at that 155 amps. But no problem--nobody else is nearby in the park and the rangers are all hiding inside where it is warm, and don't care about your generator, so you can do it! :) Just to complete the math on that-- 200AH is 40% so 100% is 500AH needed where that is maybe 85% in the cold from a rated bank of 588AH so you need say four T-1275s at 150 each, or six T-105s at 225 x 3 = 675. So that all works until you get AGMs rated at 100AH each and it says do not recharge at more than 27 amps per battery!!!! Oops, now what? 600AH minimum needed so that is six of those 100AH AGMs and six x 27 is 162 amps. Saved! 155 is my max with the Honda and the two chargers. But it will take a bit longer than the two hours to complete the 50-90, more like an extra half hour. So cheat! Do it when the rangers are out there with their chain saws going and they won't notice your Honda at all. :) Also keep the AGMs inside your rig where it is nice and warm and gain 10-15% in AH capacity (but do not overcharge them so badly that they vent!--ie, do not go over that 27a per 100AH limit in the spec--unless your AGMs specify they can do more like some can) So just get it done and if the batteries only last six years doing that instead of twelve by following the 10% charging rate recommended, too bad. You want to go camping or not?
BFL13 08/16/17 03:53pm Tech Issues
RE: Inverter Swap 1000 for 2000watts

You can have safe ampacity and fusing, but the wiring be too long and thin and/or not enough battery bank size in AH to stay above inverter alarm/shut off when running the high amps. So even if the 10 wiring is "safe" for the 20, you might not be able to use the 20 to run a microwave or whatever. You can fatten up the wiring but still not have enough battery bank AH to prevent the inverter from alarming due to voltage drop at the higher amp level or VV. You have to get the right combo of inverter/wiring/battery bank size for it all to do the job right. You can have a situation where you can only run the microwave if the batteries are near full, but not when they are at 60% SOC. You want to be able to run the toaster on inverter to make breakfast before campground generator hours when the batts are low from watching movies the night before and then the furnace was on all night because it is winter. You can run the gen later on to recharge the batts, but that does not help you right now when you want to make toast! :(
BFL13 08/11/17 05:51pm Tech Issues
RE: Is it my power converter?

You should have a multimeter, especially as a full-timer. Check the voltage at the battery lugs by the converter's output-- sometimes they are on the fuse panel. Turn off shore power and you should get battery voltage of 12.x. Turn on shore power (to supply the converter) and you should see 13.x or more if it goes into bulk at 14.x. With no meter, you can check with your DC lights--same thing only lights will be brighter at the higher converter voltage than at battery voltage. You idiot lights battery monitor is actually a voltmeter. With battery only it might show a green or yellow light. With the converter voltage at 13.x (way above a full battery voltage of 12.7) the monitor will say "full" battery--even if the battery itself is dead. The converter could be plugged into a receptacle, which is dead from being on a popped GFCI circuit, which the fridge's receptacle (outside in the back) might also be on. You can check those receptacles with your multimeter for 120v or plug in a 120v lamp that is known to work. The power surge might have killed the converter with too much 120v. There is a 120v fuse inside the converter if you are comfortable taking the lid off and poking around. It is right by where the 120v wires are connected to the circuit board.
BFL13 08/10/17 09:40am Tech Issues
RE: Dirty carpet from slide

I did laminate flooring after removing the carpet. When the slide starts in, it raises an inch or two, sliding the edge of throw rug under the leading edge of the slide prevents scratching of the laminate. Aha! Good tip. I call that white plastic thing at the floor edge a "round-down" (as in the after end of a carrier's flight deck) and also the "hump" in case a translation is needed. :)
BFL13 08/09/17 06:16pm Tech Issues
RE: Dirty carpet from slide

IMO don't do that. Don't know what would happen down under where it is on the rails. When the slide is out, from outside under there you can get at the long outer-lower edge of the round-down the silde bottom rides up on. It could be all grungy there and that is what might be getting on the carpet. There is a seal at the bottom of the slide I suppose to keep road gunk from getting up in there, but ours went bad after a few years so I wouldn't count on that much. With the slide just starting to come in when it is high up off the floor you can see if the front of the slide bottom is dirty (you being inside the trailer). You can see the rest of the slide bottom when it is out (and you being outside). There doesn't seem to be anything under there like rollers. I wanted to remove the bit of carpet along the edge of the floor by the hump and go all tiling, but Komfort told me to leave a little (2-3 inches that would be hidden under the slide's carpet flap) carpet there so the slide would go in right and not scratch the floor. Of course I ignored that, and sure enough there are a couple of scratches on the tiling. No idea what can be doing the scratching. It is all a limiter on any idea of doing a reno with nice wood flooring and no carpet (with dogs it is better with no carpet) and there is no room for additional floor height anyway. The original tiles by the doorway and in the kitchen were stuck on the floor OSB and getting them off damaged the top of the OSB, which is really difficult to repair to get a smooth top on, since many fillers are wet and just makes things worse. And naturally there is no height allowance for just slapping a new wood floor on top of the damaged OSB.
BFL13 08/08/17 01:03pm Tech Issues
RE: Need 110v side & refrig help, FAST

The fridge needs 12v to run on 120v or on gas. So the fridge isn't getting 12v. Why not? Other 12v things work. Why will the converter not supply 12v or the battery to the fridge? The converter might not be getting any 120v on its receptacle if it is a plug in type, but then why isn't the battery doing the 12v instead? There is a battery disconnect switch, but some 12v is happening in part of the rig, so "not clear." One set of 120v receptacles works but the other does not--is this a 50a rig or a 30a rig? Is the converter on the live or dead set of receptacles? Agree to check for a popped GFCI receptacle in the dead circuit of those just in case.
BFL13 08/07/17 06:24pm Tech Issues
RE: Power converter

You should say "power centre" instead of "converter" so we don't get confused. The converter is in the power centre and just converts 120v to 12v. Meanwhile you do have a ground fault somewhere in the rig, which is why he cut off the ground prong (it is not "broken" --he cut it off) instead of finding the problem and fixing it. Meanwhile, don't stand in a puddle and put your hand on the skin of the rig. :( Agree, if you are not familiar with electrical issues, get a pro to fix it. In a 1996 rig it could be anything, but the first suspect might be the shore power cord plug itself that he cut the prong off. Perhaps a new plug on that cord, that is properly connected to the three wires would fix it right there. You have to replace that plug anyway with a proper three-prong. If not, it is a time-consuming task to find the ground fault in the rig, and time is money (100/hr?) so lots of motivation to try to find the problem yourself. That gets you to the suggestion earlier to try one breaker at a time to narrow down which circuit is guilty. Then you can chase down what on that circuit is guilty. (But start outside with the shore power cord plug in case that was it and save a bunch of work checking inside the rig)
BFL13 08/07/17 06:09pm Tech Issues
RE: 2006 KZ Sportsmen slide problems

Is there any way to use a car's tire jack with other bits and pieces as required on top and sticking out however, to hold the motor/bracket(s) in place so you can just replace the bolt, instead of taking all that out?
BFL13 08/07/17 04:52pm Tech Issues
RE: CLEAR Window Film Polarizing ?

Mex, I just got both eyes done for cataracts with " Intraocular Lens" made in Irvine CA. Anyway, yes you might still need glasses after that or maybe not depending on astigmatism or whatever, or maybe just reading glasses. Bright light is harsh with the new eyes for some months. In my case, I already had a cheap polarize sun shade thingy that when driving in daytime, I hang on the inside of my regular glasses, which are not tinted. After six weeks or so from getting your second eye done, you can go for a new prescription and get new glasses. Once you get those, you can use the cheapo drop in polarize shades with them, same as with your old glasses. Until then, you could need actual sunglasses you can put on and drive without any glasses except your new eyes, which will probably be good enough so you don't run into trees or miss any red lights. :) Years ago I had a set of prescription tinted glasses with a variable tint that was supposed to be dark in daytime and light at night. Nope, it stayed too dark in the dark. Hated those things. So I got the drop in shades that hang inside your glasses. Sort of bent at the sides like blinkers too--neat feature. Works great for driving.
BFL13 08/06/17 06:56pm Tech Issues
RE: Power issues with Frank's Voltage Booster

I don't have one of those and have no clue. However, IMO if you can fix the thing as planned, you should archive the fix somehow like with a youtube video or whatever might last, that can will show up as a hit on Goggle for folks with that same problem. Maybe there is a "legacy" website for that gizmo that you could have it do a link to your fix? Sorry, I am not up to speed on all this new- tech way of doing things, but- whatever I am trying to say. :)
BFL13 08/06/17 06:40pm Tech Issues
RE: Is it ok to put a Maxxair fan here?

The vent screws into the roof all around and you Dicor over that, so if the screws won't go in the wood as is but only into the fibreglass, then you need to add something like more wood inside the hole or else extend the vent edges to reach the wood that is there. Those Rv vents are a standard size so not clear what the old vent screwed into. There is also the inside part that screws up into the ceiling
BFL13 08/05/17 09:14pm Tech Issues
RE: CLEAR Window Film Polarizing ?

I put 3M "Medium Skylight" on the windows in the truck camper. It took a bit of a learning curve to install it right--mostly to get the size right for the particular window, but also just the rigamarole of getting them stuck on properly. PITA but survivable for a DIY man with a calm temperament against adversity :) There is a very slight darkening in daytime you can hardly tell. I cannot answer as to how it would work on your car front window at night against headlight glare, but it would not be dark glass like is illegal anymore from back when they tried that, and you couldn't see out at night. :( It could well help on the side windows against sunburn.
BFL13 08/05/17 07:08pm Tech Issues
RE: Is it ok to put a Maxxair fan here?

I have put in a new vent with a fan as part of it for an "all in one" and I just can't see where vibration could cause a leak. The new fan will be "balanced" fairly well in itself, and the only place it can leak is up on the roof if not properly Dicored. The Dicor is flexible if there is a tiny vibration (which I doubt) and you have to keep adding more Dicor every year anyway as part of your regular maintenance. Some Eternabond is also good if it gets to be an "issue" in an older rig. You also have the advantage of using the old fan's electrical connections if you just replace it with the new one. The vent cover might have to change size if you are going to a heftier sort of vent fan, but that is not the question here.
BFL13 08/05/17 06:48pm Tech Issues
RE: BRC 10a furnace pilot light not working

I had a hard time figuring out which way the knob turned at first. On ours the marker must be at the bottom (not seen) and when it says "Pilot" right side up at the bottom that is "pilot." Turn clockwise to "Off" and counter- clockwise to "On" (which lights the main burner) The temp control knob on ours doesn't seem to make any difference. The furnace front gets really hot. A little kid would have to learn that the hard way! You can get some heat by just leaving the pilot lit and no main burner. EDIT-found my old thread--see post 1/28/15 at 4:16 on cleaning the pilot orifice. https://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/28166002/print/true.cfm
BFL13 08/05/17 01:11pm Tech Issues
RE: BRC 10a furnace pilot light not working

Can't remember exactly, but I had the whole thing apart. I found this article to be useful. Para 6 mentions getting at the pilot orifice but I can't remember if that is what I did. http://www.monsterhorsepower.com/retro_camper_iweb/d200/Hydro_Fame_BRC-10A_RV_furnace.html You can google for more BRC-10A stuff. I see in the official service manual it just says, "....remove orifice from pilot, clean by blowing out frontwards and backwards with high pressure air and replace."
BFL13 08/05/17 12:59pm Tech Issues
RE: BRC 10a furnace pilot light not working

I had to take mine all apart and soak everything in mineral spirits. Then the pilot orifice was able to squirt the spirits ok. There was something else going on too, where you can use your lighter to heat the thermocouple (whatever that is called) before lighting the pilot, but didn't have to once it was all working. Be sure to close the little pilot access flap door thingy as soon as you do get it lit or it won't stay lit long enough for you to go to main burner.
BFL13 08/05/17 07:16am Tech Issues
RE: Awning roller ball?????

Not fitted on ours, but I doubt it would help much. With the awning down enough to do any good the door and also the screen door are jammed at the top. A roller might help if the awning is only down a little. Only thing that works for us is an extra curtain hanging from the awning with the awning up enough to let the doors open/close. We use a shower curtain rigged at the sunny end for late afternoon with some bungee cords and clamps. It could all be avoided if the door would open inwards like in a stick house, but no--- :( I guess they figure the door in an RV won't have an overnight snow bank up against it outside so you can't get out in the morning.
BFL13 08/03/17 09:25pm Tech Issues
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