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 > Your search for posts made by 'BFL13' found 2042 matches.

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  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: Repaired Samlex inverter not working at night

A solar controller can't tell the SOC of a battery. It only knows what the solar is doing. There is probably nothing wrong with your controller as such. To know what the battery has going in and out from everything, you need a monitor like the Trimetric with the shunt having everything across it, including the solar and the inverter, plus the usual things like furnace, lights , fans , etc. Even then, deriving SOC from the information is an art rather than a science. You need to cross-check a couple of different things like AH count vs voltage to see if they match in order not to be misled by only one info source.
BFL13 10/24/14 07:40pm Tech Issues
RE: PD9260 Convertor Never Goes To 14.4V

Which model is it that has a boost button on the DC fuse panel instead of using a remote gizmo? (People have mentioned the fuse panel location is hard to get at)
BFL13 10/24/14 06:10pm Tech Issues
RE: Solar Panel Purchase

ISTR their 235w for $160 is a Hanwha, which is what I have in a 230w except I paid $260 for mine "up here." :( It works well.
BFL13 10/24/14 01:12pm Tech Issues
RE: Time to charge a bank of 8 6v batteries using a generator

The Iota 90 is not PF corrected, and costs more than a PowerMax 100 The Iota drops to 14.2 right after it gets the batteries to 14.6v ( Iota at 14.8 then) The PowerMax does the same thing only it drops to 13.6 instead of 14.2. Neither one of them has a boost button that you can use to maintain the higher voltage 14.6 so it won't drop down. There is a version of the PowerMax out now with an external voltage adjustment knob, but that is not "automatic" if that is what the user wants. There is a 120amp sized one of those (they are called PMBC ) There is a PD 80 amper which is also not PF corrected, but does have the boost button so you can make it stay at the high voltage (but that is only 14.4) and you really only get 75 or 70 amps during Bulk unless you wire it special, difficult in an RV. It appears you have to spend more money to get what you want, such as the 150 amp charger in those fancy inverter/chargers which can be programmed to do the charging profile you want or get the PowerMax 120a PMBC with manual adjustment
BFL13 10/24/14 08:00am Tech Issues
RE: Proper Wiring for two controllers to one battery bank

I ran my two controllers on the same battery bank with no problems at all, so IMO there is a lot of theory going on here and not that much actual real life. I ran a Solar30 PWM off a 130w panel plus an Eco-Worthy MPPT of a 230w panel where both controllers were set to 14.8v and they added their amps perfectly all the way up from morning to reaching 14.8v. There are so many old-wives tales on this forum about not paralleling different chargers on the same bank it is hard to believe they won't change their minds when faced with the facts. :(
BFL13 10/23/14 06:05pm Tech Issues
RE: Mean Well power supply for my usage

Adjusting the voltage with the PM3-100 had nothing to do with the "issues" I had as it happens. (I thought maybe it did at the time but didn't know.) It was all thermistor. That seems to be a non-issue if you do not do any hot restarts and do clamp on battery first before plugging in the 120v. J's "issues" are totally unique with his unit which has a very peculiar history so we can't generalize from it for anything IMO. Getting the PM3 and modifying it is a gamble which you should be prepared to lose and be happy to win. Simple. Risk free options (warranty) cost more and you get a better unit, but might be over your budget. Its the old two lousy choices situation :)
BFL13 10/23/14 03:47pm Tech Issues
RE: Paging Mena661

Mex, if your laptop has HDMI you can use the television with HDMI as a monitor.
BFL13 10/23/14 11:56am Tech Issues
RE: Paging Mena661

The LED 32inch LG we have has one ( LG32L3400-UA) I took some readings for the various brightness settings using the inverter and got: Intelligent Sensor-25w ( you sit in the dark to get the low watts, but that means less amps draw from lighting too :) ) Vivid-65w (8.2a on Trimetric) Standard-50w (7.4a) Cinema-35w (6.0a) Sport-65w Game-45w The 32inch Samsung LCD was Dynamic 120w Standard 80w Movie-70w
BFL13 10/23/14 11:36am Tech Issues
RE: Is this slide out motor gone?

Must be a very small slide-out! Ours draws more than 15a going in and out (13.5 ft slide) and the Lippert spec is a 30a fuse. Ours does not go through the DC fuse panel at all. The 30a fuse is in the battery compartment. Beware installing the new switch to play with it before screwing it in so you have the IN and OUT the right way up :)
BFL13 10/23/14 11:19am Tech Issues
RE: Charging 4 12-volt house batteries with portable charger

I posted a long time ago about the big losses from successive 50-90s and did some additional trails testing on that "progressive capacity loss" http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/24849190.cfm I found that after about five 50-90s the capacity was down too far to get through the next night. The limit being you need enough to get through that night so you can do another 50-90 next morning. Since the regular time we needed a 50-90 was every two days with our particular AH usage, that meant the time limit was ten days to two weeks and we were stuck. Next step was go home and do "recovery" on the batteries whose SG was so low you couldn't even find it :) Mex is right about the fun it is to do a "recovery" Takes a few days before you can go off-grid again for another ten days or so. One night with hook-ups is not enough time to do a "recovery" The cure was solar. Shallow cycles and reaching high SOC (but not necessarily to full) means you can go weeks and weeks off-grid and not have progressive capacity loss that you will ever notice. Even so you should do an equalization every month to make sure you can still get back to "baseline SG"
BFL13 10/23/14 10:25am Tech Issues
RE: Time to charge a bank of 8 6v batteries using a generator

BFL, not to put you on the spot, but to hopefully jog your memory, I found one of your posts from june 2011 while looking for info on the pm3-100's: "Posted By: BFL13 on 06/22/11 11:07am (UPDATE added new post on thread ) What follows is not guaranteed info but my interpretation of info--so if spending money get it confirmed! Talking to the company, they clarify that the PM3-100 has a power factor corrected version and a non-power factor corrected version." I also noticed a while back your 100 has FOUR 20a fuses? I always thought that was a little odd? But I found one on youtube with only 3: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lyzD4an76yA ---------- EDIT--I see on that video one that says 14.6v on it, so that is a Randy one I guess where the main ones were 14.4v Mine does not have that list of voltages on the label but it does say PM3-100 on the label ---------- Could be the non-PFC one was a PM not a PM3, or I could have got that mixed up with the one that had a boost button (WFCO clone) and the PowerMax one that had no boost button--- it seems they were in rapid flux ramping up the new company and quickly went through various versions of their line up. My PM3-100 I got in early 2012 has four 40a. The one in that video has three except when he looks at it from a different angle it looks like four (or I am going blind) but his are stacked vertically however many there are, while mine are horizontal. http://i50.tinypic.com/fp8274.jpg I got my PM3-100 in early 2012. It is PF corrected. At the time they were already looking at doing that 15 min thing (I complained about the 13.2 WFCO method mine did) and I think maybe but don't know some PM3s from mid 2012 on got that feature, before they started the PM4 line. Meanwhile Randy was off making up his own version of these things with his own specs and called his version Boondockers. It's all hard to pin down. My basic recommendation is that you can get a PM4 adjustable or a WFCO 98100 with the boost button and have a warranty, or for $100 less, you can take a chance on a PM3-100 and modify it yourself with no warranty. And it seems not all PM3s are the same just to make it more exciting :)
BFL13 10/23/14 10:06am Tech Issues
RE: Is this slide out motor gone?

The motor is a Venture 18:1 with two leads going into the motor, one black, one red. The ground for the motor is the chassis. The two leads are the directional leads, one for "in" the other for "out". The switch for the slideout has one hot coming in (black), two commons (white) which are tied together to a common coming up from the panel, and two hots leaving (red or green) the switch. The two hots (only one can be hot at a time) tie to the two wires that go down and back to the motor leads. The trailer is a 2005 Forest River Sand Piper. The battery pos input to the switch should have a 30a fuse near the battery to be checked. The neg into the switch on ours comes from nearby on the frame. It can get corroded at the frame connection. Lippert has a new switch that is a little different from the one that came with our 2003 trailer. It has different wire colours too, so you need to see Lippert's website for the diagram for "old" and "new". It may be a better switch as well. Our old one went bad inside it, and once it was replaced this summer the slide works like new. Seems all our previous woes were to do with that rocker switch going bad over the last few years.
BFL13 10/23/14 09:08am Tech Issues
RE: Mean Well power supply for my usage

No, I am NOT looking for float! I'm looking for a charger to put in a lot of AH in 2 hours of run time on an Onan genset. Period. I gots float otherwise covered. And equalizing too. :) I gots confused by you asking so often whether the mod PM3 did float. :)
BFL13 10/22/14 07:35pm Tech Issues
RE: Mean Well power supply for my usage

BFL I sure wouldn't want to be stuck with only one charging source that has a top end of 14.4 volts. The supplemental chargers should be employed when on generator power. Do a check on a 4 battery bank and see the amperage differential between 14.4 and 14.8 volts. Yes, I put mine to 14.8 when it was too slow at 14.6. I was just looking at alternatives for the OP since he was wanting his to go to Float and the modified PM3 won't. The OP was also looking at the power supply Mex was showing us, so he is in 'research mode' I guess. The OP is also getting solar, so he can find higher voltages there if he gets an adjustable voltage controller. Can follow some gen time with some solar time if the weatherman allows. I use several different chargers in different circumstances to get there. None of them is able to "do it all." Once you do buy something, you try to make it work even if it won't :(
BFL13 10/22/14 07:07pm Tech Issues
RE: Time to charge a bank of 8 6v batteries using a generator

Either way, now I'm itchin' to buy a pm3-75! :S IMO talk to Randy on the phone and get the story straight. He will know as he used to list the PM3s before he got going on the PM4s. They still should know your sad story about the one you have now that you got instead of the replacement for the original 60. That one you have is a one-off weirdo.
BFL13 10/22/14 06:03pm Tech Issues
RE: Dual Trojans and furnace

Your front bedroom 12v receptacle (in the Winegard?) is wired with long thin wire back to the TV fuse (10a?) in the Dc fuse panel probably by way of the ceiling which means two up and downs to add to the length of the wire. Lots of voltage drop along that wire. Your batts were not yet charged up so that is why the voltage dropped so much after being loaded. it takes along time (two days?) to recharge the batts on shore power at 13.6v Yes, you need a voltmeter to read the battery voltage more directly. You might also have sulfated batteries which can't take much load from being undercharged so much. Trojans also need this treatment to keep them going: http://pdf.wholesalesolar.com/battery-folder/charging_instruction_2011_2.pdf
BFL13 10/22/14 05:58pm Tech Issues
RE: Time to charge a bank of 8 6v batteries using a generator

At 17a and 85% that one is not PFC. All very mysterious!
BFL13 10/22/14 05:45pm Tech Issues
RE: Mean Well power supply for my usage

I am not up on the prices, but the OP might get the job done with a WFCO 98100 like Mr Wiz has. It does 14.4 but it has a boost button, so it can be kept at 14.4 as long as you want and it will do Float too, which seems to be what the OP wants as well.
BFL13 10/22/14 04:25pm Tech Issues
RE: Time to charge a bank of 8 6v batteries using a generator

Acei, Have you looked into the powermax converters on sale at AdventureRV? Shipping will be a little over $60, but you could get a pm3-100 non-pfc for about $215 u.s. delivered. And a simple mod would give you a real kick-a$$ charger. AFAIK all the PM3 100s and 75s are PF corrected. http://www.adventurerv.net/powermax-100-amp-converter-power-max-pm3100-p-28103.html http://www.adventurerv.net/powermax-100-amp-converter-power-max-pm3100-pfc-p-30709.html I'm not sure what to make of it? As posted earlier somewhere in this shmozzle, :) , they are confused. It could be the second one is a PM4 at that price. My PM3-100 is PF corrected. According to PM site so is the PM3-75. Apparently the old PM 75s were not, but AFAIK their PM-100 was, since it was a clone of the WFCO 98100 which is PF corrected. BTW that 98100 has a boost button which is neat. The PM-100 clone of that model did not have the boost button. Mr Wiz here has that 98100 with success, so as an alternative to the adjustable PMBC-100, you could consider the WFCO 98100 and just keep hitting the button if it dropped to 13.6 too soon for you.
BFL13 10/22/14 04:21pm Tech Issues
RE: Time to charge a bank of 8 6v batteries using a generator

Acei, Have you looked into the powermax converters on sale at AdventureRV? Shipping will be a little over $60, but you could get a pm3-100 non-pfc for about $215 u.s. delivered. And a simple mod would give you a real kick-a$$ charger. AFAIK all the PM3 100s and 75s are PF corrected.
BFL13 10/22/14 03:43pm Tech Issues
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