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 > Your search for posts made by 'BFL13' found 1263 matches.

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RE: Other 12V Sources with a 24V-12V converter

Why keep the Victron 24-12 at 13.2 instead of say 12.6?
BFL13 06/27/17 06:21am Tech Issues
RE: Electrical Quandry

GFCI? Washing the RV and the outside receptacle got wet, popping the GFCI for all the receptacles, including for the converter?
BFL13 06/26/17 10:27am Tech Issues
RE: How much grease for wheel bearings?

12,000 miles or yearly. Just ain't gonna happen. A CYA by the builders. Same with me. I can't afford for the shop to do it that often (every year) and can't do it myself. So howinheck are you supposed to know when to take it in? After a few of those expensive jobs, I let it go for longer, and after a some years, I finally noticed I had no trailer brakes. I could stop ok with just the truck brakes doing all the work--thank goodness for them being up to snuff. This must have been the case for months and months if not longer. I know you are supposed to check for that using the brake controller and no truck brakes every time out, but I must have neglected that not so little thing. That is how I finally figured out I had a problem. I also didn't have the trailer come around because the truck stopped first--a 5er thing I guess, don't know) I took it in to "my" RV shop and they showed me the brake shoes all skinny and in pieces and worn metal everything else all around. I had no brake controller issues and voltages and amps were ok- just no stopping the trailer. It turned out to be cheaper to get all new everything, since that included new already greased bearings, so I didn't have to get that done, but it was a huge pile of money. I didn't save anything compared with just keeping up with regular maintenance, plus I was going around for months and months with no trailer brakes and didn't even know it, because the truck was stopping us ok. The thing is, you have no way to know what is really going on in there under the hubs, so you are a captive of the whole industry, who just wants your money. You can't pick when to go and get the work done based on any evidence you can use to know when it is really time to get it done. Whine, sob. But that is how it is! Hate that! :(
BFL13 06/25/17 07:20pm Tech Issues
RE: 2kw Inverter + 4 GC2 6v batteries = wiring???

Good that you had a successful camping trip. That's what it is all about. I am worried reading that you don't normally turn on your range hood fan every time you light a stove propane burner. (and also remember to open the side vent flap for that fan!) There is a big warning label on ours that you must always do that. (incomplete combustion , etc, etc) A few years ago I posted about that, and a surprising number of folks posted that I was being a wuss, and that they never turned on their fans. I even posted a photo of the warning label in our trailer but it didn't change anybody's mind. Darwin explained how that all works out. Your choice.
BFL13 06/25/17 06:54pm Tech Issues
RE: Battery Discharge

Thanks again for the answers. One of the things I bought for them to install is a new Progressive Dynamics 45 converter. Yes it's the 1988 Terry. Old as dirt but seems in good shape other than the small dent I put in it. You need the Charge Wizard if it is a 9100 or the pendant if a 9200 (whatever, I don't own a PD) for that converter if you dpn't have it now. Once hooked up you will need to force it into 14.4 and let it run out the time (4 hours max) then hit it again for another four hours of 14.4 and so on, till your hydrometer says the SG is up where it belongs at 1.285 or so (correct that number for temp and actual battery specs as they have it in their website) If you had a charger that could do it, a good shot of 16v after that would be good too, just to show them who is Boss.
BFL13 06/25/17 06:41pm Tech Issues
RE: Hot refrigerator coils...(Fun Finder)

The installation instructions for the Dometic 7401L (smaller sort of RV fridge) include using a baffle below the upper fins so the cool air from the lower vent will pass through the fins on the way up to go out the upper vent. In some RVs you have a wide space behind the fridge so the cooler air rises up right past the fins and out the roof vent without going through the fins. The baffle stops that. In some cases a fan can help push/pull the cooler air up. Goodness knows how it can all work down there in Arizona right now! :( What "cool air" coming in the bottom vent?
BFL13 06/25/17 06:20pm Tech Issues
RE: How much grease for wheel bearings?

The Dexter manual since at least our 2003 trailer has always said you have to clean off the old grease and check the bearings for spalling etc before you regrease. Then it says to check the brakes every 12K or yearly whichever comes first. You need to take the hubs off to check the brakes. You need to take the hubs off to clean the old grease off the bearings. Strangely enough, the interval for doing that is the same as for checking the brakes. This leaves regreasing with the hubs off--ie manually. There is never, ever an occasion in the manual for ever using a grease gun on the zerks. Unless you park your trailer in a river so now it is like a boat trailer. So why oh why did they put those EZLube things on an RV? "Sales" said it would look good in their ads as a neat feature. Bottom line-- if you own a grease gun and get the urge to use it on your EZ Lubes RV, lie down till the feeling goes away! Do the bearings manually and inspect them while clean before regreasing like it says. Do the brakes like it says at the same time while the hubs are off. Why do the brakes so often even if you haven't gone very far in a year? Dexter tech support told me the reason is that they are air- cooled and moisture can get in while you are parked--especially on wet grass. So the brakes can get rusty even though hardly any miles on them. So the brakes are setting the pace for how often you regrease the bearings and how-- ie, manually while the hubs are off. No reason to ever grease the bearings more often than that (unless you park in a river---but that can't be too good for the brakes either :) )
BFL13 06/25/17 06:05pm Tech Issues
RE: Battery Discharge

Is this in the 1988 TT? Did you get a newer converter for that TT? If not, then the 6s won't get a proper recharge, which means them seeing 14.4 or better for as long as it takes to get their SGs up to spec, say 1.285 ( after allowance for temperature) Once SG stops rising that is your target for future recharges (baseline SG) You need to do that with any new battery after getting it home, and especially with these with the extra shelf-time. Then you should be fine--if you have a converter or some other charger that can meet the charging specs for those 6s. Yes, it is very annoying to have the RV shop steal your camping time like that.
BFL13 06/25/17 04:23pm Tech Issues
RE: Portable (suitcase) solar "install" question

"Do I use the 17.8vpm instead of 12v for the drop calculations? If yes, then I'm guessing I'd be well above the 12-14+ volts needed? " With 12v PWM, panel voltage is the same as battery voltage except for a bit of voltage drop, so figure between 12 and 15 as it rises during the day. Use total panel rated Isc as your "expected amps" to go with the voltage in the tables to pick your wire gauge. Eg a 100w panel will be 6 amps so two in parallel will get you 12 amps (and more of a voltage drop with the higher amps) You might add a panel later so get wire now to allow for that, and also a high enough amp controller--That Grape 40 is an excellent choice with its high amps, features, and costing no more than many lower amp ones. Again, Vmp is only for MPPT controller calculations.
BFL13 06/22/17 11:12am Tech Issues
RE: Portable (suitcase) solar "install" question

PWM controllers don't care about power as such. So some power loss between panel and controller doesn't matter to how many amps you are charging with. There is no Vmp or Imp with PWM. With PWM you can get away with long wires from controller to panel, but not from controller to battery. Power matters with MPPT with their buck converters as how they do the amps to battery so now line loss between controller and panel matters- to keep input power up--but if your voltage there is 24 vs 12 you can use thinner wire of course. If it is MPPT and 12-12 you need fatter wire there too. Both types of controller are affected by line loss between controller and battery. BTW, WFCO does four hours max at its 14.4 (if you can get it to do 14.4 at all)
BFL13 06/22/17 09:42am Tech Issues