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 > Your search for posts made by 'BFL13' found 2000 matches.

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RE: Power Center/Converter 101

You forgot the 0.7 power factor to add to the claimed input watts required. So make that 725 equal 1035. Some people have reported they first start the PD at 13.6v then after a while they use the charge wizard to make it do 14.4 once the input required drops to 900w I don't have a PD converter, so I can't confirm how that goes for total gen time comparisons. BTW, the converters have an amps upper limit built in so 45 for a 45 is about it.
BFL13 08/31/15 11:36am Tech Issues
RE: Power Center/Converter 101

Are you calling my graph UGLY??? ;) ON EDIT: I tried to send you a PM. I really apologize if I offended you. I meant nothing against your graph. I was making fun of my inability to understand one line of it. I understood that right off, no problem. :) Actually I have been calling it "my ugly graph" for years now. I built it after reading Barre's book on how all this works and using my collection of chargers. http://www.bestconverter.com/Books_c_67.html
BFL13 08/31/15 08:30am Tech Issues
RE: Power Center/Converter 101

The ugly graph is meant to help with questions such as 35 vs 45 so you don't have to guess at it. In the ugly graph for a 220AH bank the diff in time doing a 50-90 is 38 minutes between a 35 and a 55. So call it 19 minutes for 35 vs 45. But with one battery (call it 110AH even if it is really 85AH ) that would be 9 minutes of generator time saved for every 50-90. (actually less time for an 85 vs 110 of course) So with those approx. figures, you can now decide what is "worth it" for your situation. EG, If the 45 costs the same as the 35 and the 1000w can run it, then there is no value in choosing the 35, but there is the 9 minutes of gen time value in choosing the 45. Whatever.
BFL13 08/31/15 08:09am Tech Issues
RE: Stand alone battery charger recommendations

..........The problem is that this portable charger has a low WAF(Wife Acceptance Factor) as is sits on the floor where her wine table goes...... HTH; John No need for the table! Train DW to do it the Australian way. Wine in plastic bag inside cardboard box that can be hanged from a hook on the ceiling. Stand under it and open the valve, mouth open. Too easy! :)
BFL13 08/30/15 06:51pm Tech Issues
RE: GFI circuit problems...

Doug knows! But first I would have tried to see if it was just the outside receptacle behind the fridge it is plugged into. IE, unplug the fridge, run an extension cord into the stick house bathroom GFCI receptacle and see if it pops. If not, then I would trouble-shoot that back of the fridge 120v receptacle.
BFL13 08/30/15 06:28pm Tech Issues
RE: Power Center/Converter 101

Bump for the OP, since they haven't commented if they understand yet what their needs are. Niner, she's been on here several times before. IIRC she already has solar. Not a newbie. OP asked a proper question, probably figuring out the replies. Has a clue. :)
BFL13 08/30/15 06:19pm Tech Issues
RE: battery charging voltage

Hi, My new to me batteries will be installed tomorrow. I know that recommended float voltage is 13.5 to 13.8 volts. What would be a good voltage for absorb charging? They are used telecom batteries so are a variant of AGM but are not a starved acid configuration. The are Dynasty UPS12-490MR The chemistry is Lead Calcium AGM with a SG of 1.300 PT, just for education, not questioning anything! Those specs for your UPS batteries seem at odds with the table at the end of this blurb. http://www.engineersedge.com/battery/specific_gravity_battery.htm Also how did you get the SG of an AGM???? (1.3 seems way high for a UPS wrt the blurb above too?
BFL13 08/30/15 06:15pm Tech Issues
RE: battery charging voltage

deleted
BFL13 08/30/15 06:14pm Tech Issues
RE: solar charge controller

The ViewStar is an excellent controller. You can also just dangle it from something up above using a shoelace (not kidding!) instead of putting it against the wall if that will let it get more air around it. If really need more venting for that cargo bay, you can also put a "cable hatch" in the door. This can be closed while on the road to keep water and dust out, open while camping, and still lets you close and lock the door. I have one for passing wires in to my inverters and for the solar controller to panel out on the ground outside wires. Also acts as an air vent. Works great. http://i60.tinypic.com/2vbo76d.jpg
BFL13 08/30/15 06:05pm Tech Issues
RE: solar charge controller

The ViewStar is an excellent controller. You can also just dangle it from something up above using a shoelace (not kidding!) instead of putting it against the wall if that will let it get more air around it. If really need more venting for that cargo bay, you can also put a "cable hatch" in the door. This can be closed while on the road to keep water and dust out, open while camping, and still lets you close and lock the door. I have one for passing wires in to my inverters and for the solar controller to panel out on the ground outside wires. Also acts as an air vent. Works great.
BFL13 08/30/15 06:00pm Tech Issues
RE: Power Center/Converter 101

The IQ4 will get the batteries to 14.6 stays there 15 minutes, then drops to 14.2 for 8 hours, then goes to 13.6 How long it takes to get to 14.6 depends on the charging rate and the initial SOC of course. Higher charging rate, faster time to get to 14.6 but at a lower SOC when it gets there, so the remaining SOC will be at the lower Absorption voltage. Total gen time then depends on juggling the Bulk time and the Absorption times to create the shortest total time. That is what my old ugly graph was supposed to help with. (It still can help with that it is so clever! :) ) http://i60.tinypic.com/2iassci.png
BFL13 08/29/15 11:57am Tech Issues
RE: Power Center/Converter 101

There seem to be few places you can boondock off grid for free "up here" although locals might know of a spot here and there. Best go on the Canada forum and ask about the prospects in the area you wish to visit. Some place down a logging road where the high school kids go to party on weekends doesn't really count either :)
BFL13 08/29/15 10:56am Tech Issues
RE: How to determine rating of a new converter panel?

The converter's output voltage will appear to sag under 12v loads so the idea is to keep it up above 13v (as seen at the battery down however long a wire that is) so the battery does not have to help out running the loads. You could say the total 12v load of all the stuff in the rig on at once needs to be handled by the DC rating of the converter so it stays above 13v. Of course you don't often have everything on at once. Furnace on while running out the slide and raising the front jacks with all the lights and fans on? That is why they have 13.6v as normal. When at 13.2 and you use 12v stuff, the voltage at the battery can go below 13 easily. Same on solar if you are on 13.2v Float in the afternoon with full batts and you run small 12v things, the battery charging stops and a draw starts, but if you raise the Float to 13.6, the solar can run the small loads and still keep some amperage to the battery so it stays up on the Float. Some three stage converters will automatically trigger off 13.2 and go back to 13.6 when you run a 12v load in the rig.
BFL13 08/29/15 09:58am Tech Issues
RE: How to determine rating of a new converter panel?

So battery capacity has nothing to do with converter DC rating? Not for running the rig's 12v stuff and keeping the battery charged. If you go crazy and get more than the one 12v 24 size batt you are issued with, then you are on your own for getting some way to recharge the bigger battery bank you got. :)
BFL13 08/29/15 08:17am Tech Issues
RE: Power Center/Converter 101

The press release is just amazing. :) See, there is nothing wrong with the WFCO. It is your fault if the batteries need Bulk, and besides at 13.6 it can recharge a flat battery in 3 hours. The IQ4 gizmo is what makes the DLS do 14.6ish instead of just 14.2 as with the dual jack device. The IQ4 does not give you any control, it is automatic. IMO the PD and Charge Wizard is better in that the CW gives you control to force Bulk as needed. I disagree that the Iota 30 amper would be as fast as the PD 45 amper doing a 50-90. The CW keeps it at 14.4 for four hours while the IQ4 drops to 14.2 15 minutes after the battery gets to 14.6 and you can't make it go back to 14.6 by just hitting a button again. Much depends also on the charging rate (charging amps vs battery bank size in AH) just what SOC you get to when the battery reaches 14.6 and how much more the battery needs in generator time. If you want to do a 50-90 and it gets to 14.6 at 75, the 75-90 part will take longer at 14.2 then it would at 14.4. If you were doing 50-80s instead, then the 75-80 part isn't such a big deal. You might even get to 80 before it hits 14.6 with a low charging rate. It is all about generator time. You can calculate pretty close how it would go with different charging rates and charging profiles of the various Brands on your battery bank to see which is faster, and if enough gen time is saved to make it worth picking one over the other.
BFL13 08/29/15 08:09am Tech Issues
RE: Bogart Solar Controller...Comments?

So, "tweak wise" you can have your "matching" controller at a different version from the version in the Tri? But Ralph will get it all sorted out for you if you keep after him? Yipes! I have enough troubles without adding more, thanks very much! So I am a Luddite. Works for me. :)
BFL13 08/28/15 07:04pm Tech Issues
RE: Hydrometer reading questions.

It could be 100% charged at its now lower capacity (sulfated somewhat) and show proper voltage but the lower SG.
BFL13 08/28/15 06:54pm Tech Issues
RE: AMP

He said washing machine not dryer. Oops! --I got caught up in the "electrician to the house" part and what that often leads to. :(
BFL13 08/28/15 06:16pm Tech Issues
RE: AMP

Your trailer should not be plugged into the dryer plug or other stick house 30a plug!!!! Trailer is 120v and house 30s are 240v. Fry the trailer :( Your problem now is not the "20a" plugs it is the long run of wire to the trailer making for voltage drop so 125 at the house might be only 105 at the trailer, and the a/c won't run on low voltage. In fact it might be harmed $$$ trying that. Try it on a less busy house 20a circuit and use fatter wire out to the trailer--12 instead of 14.
BFL13 08/28/15 06:05pm Tech Issues
RE: cant flip axes

The trailer is fitted with a set of axles that are already on little rails so they have perfect alignment. The trailer factory then welds the little axle rails to the bottom of the trailer frame rails. To "flip" you get the axle rails "unwelded" from the trailer rails, insert a new fat rail of the height needed each side and weld that all back on. This preserves your axle alignment on their original little rails. You might have to add wire to the brake wires to get the wires long enough for the new distances.
BFL13 08/28/15 05:58pm Tech Issues
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