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 > Your search for posts made by 'BFL13' found 1315 matches.

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RE: Class C Weight Questions and Ride-Rite Question

OK I won't move the spare to up front right away. If it's been there since 1991 things can't be all that bad. That means I can still have a set of longhorns up there like those guys in Texas all have! :) On the steering, I wonder if the back being so heavy is lifting the front a bit, although it all seems level. I notice that with no hands on the wheel it drives straight like it should, but there is more play in the steering wheel than I am used to for turns. It all works, but I would rather have a more direct feel to it, a tighter wheel, whatever I am trying to say--at least I know what I mean! :( Could that be from not enough weight up front? I don't know Ford trucks though. Maybe it is normal. The garage guys didn't say anything about it, and they did a thorough inspection.
BFL13 10/23/17 05:30pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Propane Level Indication?

"At least on my Coachmen motorhome, the gauge on the tank is pretty accessible, being next to the fill port and shut-off valve and so forth behind a door on the motorhome skirting." This is the same as my Forester, no access problem to the tank gage, visible as soon as you open the compartment door. The thing that confuses me on mine is, the inside panel with the LP & all the other levels, is in thirds, the on tank gage is in quarters. :h Ours is in metric thirds for "up here", which is even worse.
BFL13 10/23/17 03:10pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Class C Weight Questions and Ride-Rite Question

I figured out there is one thing I can do after all, but I don't know if it would be worth the bother. Move the spare tire from the back bumper to the front. Using the leverage weight calculator for a snow plow from my Chev truck manual, and assuming the spare weighs 75 lbs (it is very heavy--I had to take one off to get a leak fixed--was the valve core--had a struggle lifting it up into the truck's box ) I get: 75 x (140 + 176)/176 = 135 lbs on the rear axle from that 75 lb spare. 140" is the distance of the spare back from the axle and 176" is the wheel base. I am over RGAWR by 182 lbs according to the scales. What I don't know is the exact weight of that spare and whether this amount over RGAWR is trivial or is serious enough to warrant moving the spare to the front.
BFL13 10/23/17 10:52am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Propane Level Indication?

Thanks! I gotta get one of those. They say no shipping to Canada, but that can be got around :)
BFL13 10/23/17 10:41am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Propane Level Indication?

BFL13 - you need to install a connection downstream from your chassis tank shutoff valve that allows you to connect a cylinder to your system. You are supplying the vehicle system from the cylinder not trying to transfer fuel to the large tank from the cylinder. I will check that out. Might be able to include a quick connect in any such mod so the RVQ that worked with the 5er could be used with the MH. I suspect I am trying to re-invent the wheel on all that, and you longer time in Class C guys have BTDT EDIT--I will go through the Class C FAQ soon.
BFL13 10/23/17 08:49am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Class C Weight Questions and Ride-Rite Question

Good point about the rim specs. I don't have that info for my wheels, but supposed to take Ds. I saw a note somewhere in all the bumph for the rig that said 6" and don't use tires that need 6.5"? Ds are good to 65 lbs so I figure 65 in the Es will be ok even if the rims will only take Ds. Can't see any reason to go over 65 since that will carry more than the GAWR anyway. Perhaps a previous owner put the Es on instead of Ds was just to keep from driving all the time at max PSI on the back tires. The spare is a D, probably from before. I did learn a lot from getting it on the scales and asking about it here, that's for sure. I would never have known it was over its RGAWR and at or just over its GVWR. It has a towing hitch receiver, but I don't see how you could put any weight on it since the rig is already over its RGAWR. Good reminder about the rim psi limit if ever intending to go even more above the RGAWR when towing, to exploit having Es instead of Ds. ( I don't intend to!) I wonder what those previous owners got up to in their day! Maybe that explains why it has Ride Rites. :)
BFL13 10/23/17 08:37am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Propane Level Indication?

Great info! BTW if that big tank ever did get too low, is there a way to go tank to tank from a standard 20 lb BBQ tank into the big tank and keep things running that way? Some kind of adapter hose?
BFL13 10/23/17 07:26am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Propane Level Indication?

I just had to go out and look! Dark out. Anyway there it was by the shut off valve. A tiny little round glass or plastic gauge a little bigger than a quarter with tiny blurry writing inside and a red marker needle. Has one red wire attached to it at the bottom. perhaps it is grounded to the frame via the tank? Of course right at the distance where my bifocals don't work so I used a magnifying glass with a flashlight and I think I saw a blurry 1/4 up to the left at about 10 o clock and a 3/4 down around 3 o clock and an F just past that at 4 o clock? The red needle is just above the 3/4 mark at 2 o clock ----all blurring in and out of focus :( There is a bunch of even tinier writing around the dial--can't read it. So that means this gauge says the tank is almost 3/4 full, while the idiot light level says it is Full? Can I trust that tank gauge?
BFL13 10/22/17 11:11pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Propane Level Indication?

Ok, thanks all. I will go to a propane station to be sure it is full before we go anywhere in the MH. Be time enough later to see if the monitor works and if there is another down by the tank somewhere. There is some LP in the tank as seen by getting all the appliances to work for sure on LP, and it was recertified in August before we got it. Just a matter now to make sure it is not nearly empty. Don't need that sort of surprise. :(
BFL13 10/22/17 09:33pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Class C Weight Questions and Ride-Rite Question

"In this case, Front 1630/3586 and Rear 3570/7854 so the total of those is 5,200/11,440 GVWR is 4,989/11,000" This is totally confusing me. Are you saying the weight on one front tire is 1630 and the other one is 3586? Sorry, the scales here show in Kgs to nearest 5 so I did lbs too (using 2.2 times) The Ford door specs aren't quite 2.2 but whatever--.
BFL13 10/22/17 09:04pm Class C Motorhomes
Propane Level Indication?

This 1991 MH has one of those sideways propane tanks. Never had one before. The levels monitor on the range hood is like the one we had in the 5er, but has an additional tank light for the propane level. It says it is full. Is there any other indicator? I know if it is working and the tank really is full eventually it will show a lower level, but right now, how can it be confirmed? I can go to a propane tank filling station and find out if it will hold any more propane, but is there any other way I can do myself to learn how much is in the tank? Thanks.
BFL13 10/22/17 07:40pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Class C Weight Questions and Ride-Rite Question

Well this is getting complicated! :) I do suspect the totals don't match--look at the side by sides EG. You get some of the other side's weight with just one side on the scale in the case where I was doing it. Not sure if the roadside was higher or lower than the scale platform, so can't help with that now. I just figure nothing was too drastic to worry about with the numbers I got. I would like to get this MH on one of those really big scales that can weigh it all, to then know the truth about my weight wrt GVWR. There is no likelihood I will be pulled over and checked, so I will not sweat the rules as such. I am so close at maybe 440 lbs over 11,000 I feel safe enough using my own brain if that is any use :) Interesting about the Ride-Rites. I have the manual for them and some bulletins from 1986 (so maybe these are original equipment in 1991?), so that is where I got the idea they need checking so often. I will give it all some time and miles and see how it goes. I figure they are there for a reason, so I better not do anything rash just yet. Anybody see anything peculiar in my results at the scales? Are all Class Cs like this? I did see the other thread running now on a shorter one, where a comment was made that they are usually heavy at the back.
BFL13 10/22/17 06:52pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: SLI battery maintenance

Don't worry about the brown electrolyte, it will settle again and be clear. Since the SG did not change much, the sulfation is permanent hardened, so that's that. You can start easily the first time with those now, but what if conditions are not ideal (very cold out , or you forgot and left the lights on or whatever), you now have no margin at all for longer cranking before ignition. IMO replace those batts now and get some margin back for starting this winter.
BFL13 10/22/17 06:29pm Tech Issues
RE: Class C Weight Questions and Ride-Rite Question

Ok, so my Hankooks have the same markings as the Michelin same size so I used the M table as I couldn't figure out any H tables shown. Sidewall on my Hs says 1120 kg dual at 80lbs and the M table says 4480 needs 80 lbs. Table says you need 60 lbs for 3600 kg. So mine are at 58lbs per door specs and the scale weight was 3570 so I am fairly close on that already. Since I am over weight a bit, I think I should put 65 lbs in the 4 back tires instead of 58, and have some margin there as well for the fact that one side takes more than the other, and leave the fronts alone. The door specs say 58 for the fronts too, but the front weight is only 1630kg, so that makes no sense to me, but the door says what it says. (On my Chev truck the door specs say 55 front and up to 80 rear. I never had a Ford truck before, so I will just obey Ford orders and leave the fronts at 58 :) (Actually, the garage mechanical inspection had no issues with the shocks. It all came out pretty good. Thanks, previous owner(s) !! )
BFL13 10/22/17 06:13pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Class C Weight Questions and Ride-Rite Question

Yes it is an "incomplete truck" and could have been an ambulance or whatever, but was made into a MH in this case. (in Vernon, BC ) Ok so I am just over GVWR but there is nothing I can do about it--it is what it is since 1991. :) Not much I can do about the Rear axle wt either. ( I guess towing a car is out though- :) ) The ride as is, is quite stiff. I don't know what is normal with these things. Steers well, etc. Garage inspection says it is all good.
BFL13 10/22/17 03:01pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Golf Cart Batteries

Eartha Kitt did not ask Santa for a golf cart! TomG2 is getting off easy. :) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jFMyF9fDKzE
BFL13 10/22/17 02:30pm Tech Issues
Class C Weight Questions and Ride-Rite Question

I am new to Class Cs and to Dually trucks, so have some basic questions from weighing it today. Problem to start with is the scales were small, so one axle at a time only. Question--is the total of the front and rear weights the same as the actual total weight? ( I am thinking there is a little weight from the other end adding in, so you get a higher than real total by adding the two--but that could be all wrong--so I am asking.) In this case, Front 1630/3586 and Rear 3570/7854 so the total of those is 5,200/11,440 GVWR is 4,989/11,000 So I wonder if I am really over GVWR or not. I also did one side at a time and the right front was more than the left front, while the right rear was less than the left rear but not by a lot. It appears I am over RGAWR though. RGAWR 3479/7672 and Scales 3570/7854 (RR was 1760 and LR was 1860 for total 3620 which is over the two sides measured together---which is why I am wondering about the total weight as in the question above on GVWR.) The door specs say LT215/85R16D to 58 PSI but the rig has 16Es on it. I have them at 58 PSI. I could easily go higher on the rear dually Es. Do I need to? They are rated 1120 single and two makes 2240. left side was 1860 and right side was 1760 on the scales. So the tires could do it ok with that 2200 limit --I have not checked the tire tables for psi and the scale wts on the Es, so far. The MH also has Ride- Rites for whatever reason some previous owner had. Perhaps he saw the above numbers in his day too? There was no air in the bellows when I got this, and the instructions say minimum 20 lbs. It was level with no air in them. You are supposed to air them up till level. It was already level. So I have no clue-- I put 30 lbs in them and I can't tell if any different. Each bellows is the same height and within their height specs. My question is whether I need these things. Maybe just up the PSI in the rear tires instead? The Ride-Rites seem like they would be a PITA--you have to check their air every week it says, and the air valves are hard to see and get at, up in the sani-dump compartment. I'd just as soon not have them unless I must. Any thoughts on that are welcome! So this newbie Class C owner needs some advice on all this---thanks!
BFL13 10/22/17 02:18pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Golf Cart Batteries

She is not at all interested in a gasoline fueled cart. As long as she is buying it with her money, it doesn't matter once she knows what's what. If you are buying, then that's between you and her. The tech issue aspect is quite clear. Second hand electic car with batteries you can recharge from the RV if the second hand charger it comes with doesn't work or wasn't even included.
BFL13 10/21/17 08:36pm Tech Issues
RE: Resi fridges in more and more units

Right. Mr Wiz gets it all done because he has a set-up that will do that. IMO he is still something of a slave to his fridge by having to run the gen/charger more, but in his case it is not onerous as is, so it is all good. He has learned what works for him. The point has to be-- just be ready to deal with things as they actually are when off grid, with whatever set-up you choose. Choose wrong, and you will soon know it. A 120v only vs a propane option fridge has an enormous impact on what sort of set-up you need for going off grid. It is a fairly trivial matter if all you do is FHU and a bit of travel down the road between campgrounds with the fridge on at 120v.
BFL13 10/21/17 08:22pm Tech Issues
RE: Resi fridges in more and more units

BTDT, only with smaller fridges, so scale up for your estimates. 3.2 cu ft 120v fridge pulled about 4.5 DC amps via inverter running about 2/3 the time. So that is-- 4.5 x 24 x 67/100 = 73AH a day. That is no joke when you are off grid, solar or not. Bigger 120v fridge, say 100AH a day? (Not always the case that bigger cu ft = more draw) So just for the fridge to stay above 50% SOC on the batts you need 200AH of battery bank, no solar, recharge every day. Solar, however much, can extend that by however much. ( Solar is just a way to extend the time between generator/charger recharging events.) So you still need to run the rest of the rig meanwhile, so you need more batteries. Minimum about the equivalent of four 6s at 450AH. BTW a similar size small absorption fridge that can run on propane, but running on 120v pulls more like 14 amps DC instead of that 4.5 amps. So that is a good indication of the reduced DC draw on inverter of a res fridge same size. BUT that reduced amount is still a big problem if you are off grid and the sun won't come out. Now you must have a generator and charger to keep going, or be forced to shut down the fridge if you expect the furnace to keep you warm. It all turns into a big hassle. You need the weatherman to keep the solar going, but it turns out --he is not your friend!!!! :( Lesson learned! If going off grid, have a propane fridge. You want to enjoy Rving , not having it be a nail-biter about the fridge.
BFL13 10/21/17 07:12pm Tech Issues
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