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 > Your search for posts made by 'BFL13' found 1213 matches.

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RE: 4 hole vs. 8 hole

I have the four holes. The tire shop where I got new back tires has only one guy in their gang that has small enough hands to get his in there. (I don't know if all tire shops make sure they have at least one guy who can do that--or hire women to do it) The manager said they hate MHs because of the shiny wheel cover on the back with the holes that are too small. Of course "they" made it so the shiny cover uses the same lugs as the actual wheels, so you can't just remove the shiny cover. Those wheel lugs are no fun. Another time, I had an extension with a crack in it and the inner tire went flat. What a time that was. I found out all about dealing with MH duallies with a flat up close and personal. Phooey on that. :(
BFL13 05/27/18 10:02am Tech Issues
RE: Solar question

Yes for the "battery" wires on the controller to go to the battery lugs. Not for the "array" wires and then have the controller between the converter and battery. You want the converter and controller in parallel on the battery. In the 90s it was common for the controller output wires to go to the 12v connection at the back of the fridge as a way to get to the battery. Meant using those skinny wires the fridge has. Much better to go to the fatter wires at the battery lugs on the DC fuse panel. (Best is to get the controller close to the battery and go directly to the battery posts)
BFL13 05/27/18 08:15am Tech Issues
RE: No charge from tow vehicle

" Thanks for this. Looked in junction box under kingpin. No fuses there. I will try cleaning the terminals and checking grounds and see what that gets me." Yes, but did you stick an actual voltmeter there to see if it was doing truck (when running) 13+ volts or only the same voltage as when you put the voltmeter on the trailer batteries with no 7-pin connected? Never mind for now about getting a proper full charge on the trailer batts from the7-pin. You just want to know if you are getting at least 13.x at the trailer batts with the truck running and the 7-pin connected. Need to use the voltmeter place to place along the way to find where you lose the truck's 13.x volts on the trailer's side.
BFL13 05/26/18 07:59pm Tech Issues
RE: Inverters

Luv this forum, But back to the OP's question. I have a 2000W Kisae Inverter that works well. It's PSW so you can run anything off it, as long as it doesn't draw too much power. https://www.amazon.com/KISAE-Technology-SW1220-2000W-Inverter/dp/B008NOEWG8https://www.amazon.com/KISAE-Technology-SW1220-2000W-Inverter/dp/B008NOEWG8 Check out today's posts in the "electrical troubleshooting help" thread about that inverter.
BFL13 05/25/18 03:42pm Tech Issues
RE: No charge from tow vehicle

First suspect is the pin connections (pin #4) Scrape out any corrosion, wiggle them together hard, and try again. You can also take the plug apart and clean it all up. With the trailer plug not connected to the truck's, stick the multi-meter probes into pin 4 and ground pin--should get trailer battery voltage. If no joy, your multi-meter search starts again at the terminals where the 7-pin cord is attached on the trailer. (on a 5er under by the kingpin, not sure where with a TT) Sometimes the 7-pin positive on the trailer is spliced into another positive such as for the jacks and it is fused. Of course you do this with the truck running so you can see the voltage is 13 or 14 something and not 12.x battery voltage.
BFL13 05/25/18 02:00pm Tech Issues
RE: Inverter and/or electric troubleshooting help needed

ISTR somebody here has one of those? http://www.wegosolar.com/products.php?product=KI%252dSW2012%252d55-2000W-12VDC-Pure-Sine-Wave-Inverter-with-55A-Battery-Charger- These guys usually don't sell junk, so I am surprised at the bad reviews on that other one. Maybe it is just too complicated for folks. Is it LY who has that neighbour he helps who refuses to do things right? Full marks for helping those people out. Could be an endless task it seems. You will have to move away to be free! :(
BFL13 05/25/18 01:29pm Tech Issues
RE: Inverters

An inverter draws amp hours from the battery bank. A high amp item can only be run for a short time, but a low amp item can be run for a long time for the amp-hours. A crock pot is a slow cooker--high amps, long time. Not good.
BFL13 05/25/18 11:24am Tech Issues
RE: Something causing thermal battery breaker to pop

Will a self-resetting breaker heat up from "cycling" continuously?
BFL13 05/25/18 10:20am Tech Issues
RE: Something causing thermal battery breaker to pop

Agree the breaker may be undersized in amps so it kept re-setting with the higher amps of the new converter. Need a higher amp breaker. The hot terminals could indicate the wires are too thin for the new higher amp converter too. So fatter wires as well.
BFL13 05/24/18 08:39pm Tech Issues
RE: DVD player suggestions

Probably not good info for fussy types, but no problem for years with an ordinary DVD player (also plays CDs , even of the kind the 2003 truck's player won't play) This DVD has that feature to upgrade the video on older DVDs. That actually works! Did a comparison with an older player that didn't have that. Instead of using the not so good speakers in the TV, I use a set of 2.1 powered speakers meant for a computer. You need the Y adapter with red and white plugs into the back of the DVD player that goes to a stereo mini-plug and then a connecting piece that joins that to the green mini-plug on the speaker wiring. The TV , DVD, and speakers all plug into a power bar that goes to a receptacle powered by an inverter, so you can do it all off-grid. I know it is all old -tech, but it's good enough for me! I like those old movies and TV show DVDs you can borrow from the library, and our set-up is great for those.
BFL13 05/23/18 07:05pm Tech Issues
RE: Expanding AC distribution panel

Thanks for the explanation. I thought continuity was not related to pos-neg, just that it was not "open". Anyway, you can have more than one negative connection and more than one positive connection using parallel pos or negs. Maybe that is the situation with your mystery wires. Of course two pos would make a pos fuse on one useless. Perhaps this is the time to have the power on to check actual on or off instead of no power continuity? You just want to get things to work or not. If all the negs are too short, you can use the original neg buss and run a single fatter wire to the new neg buss. If the positives are too short, you have to extend them to their individual fuses. (I had the furnace and fridge mixed up. Well, they both start with f) I know RV inverters have a "chassis ground" (to the RV frame) on the outside of their metal casings to reduce radio interference. I ASSume the chassis ground on a deck mount converter is for the same reason, don't know.
BFL13 05/23/18 06:37pm Tech Issues
RE: Expanding AC distribution panel

I don't understand "ground continuity" but I am no electrician. All the DC fuses are for the positive wires in a circuit, the negatives go to the neg buss. All of my DC fuses (except the RP 30s)in the 5er were 15s except ISTR a 10 for the Winegard TV panel. This MH has all 15s. There are other DC fuses and breakers of higher amps here and there away from the DC fuse panel. The AC breaker size in amps "goes with" the AWG of the wire going to that breaker. If the question is for the 120v input to the new 75 amp charger, it needs #14 and a 15a, but you can use #12 and a 20a to play it safe. It almost does need 20a. It is borderline by code. The PD 80 amper does need a 20a.
BFL13 05/23/18 10:37am Tech Issues
RE: Expanding AC distribution panel

I suppose you just have to ignore colours and put your own label tags on instead when you find whatever it runs. The 6300 DC fuse panel has two positive connections for the converter's DC output--one for its blue wire and one for its red wire. It is a "split panel" for fusing some DC circuits for dirty converter power, and some (last three ISTR) for "filtered by the battery" power. The 7300 was all clean power from the converter so no need for a battery as filter for any of the DC circuits. If you have a real 6300 fuse panel (and not a 7300) you must jumper the two pos converter lugs so your new DC power supply with only one positive wire will run all the circuits. BTW Parallax bought out Magnetek after the 7300 came out, so there are Magnetek 7300s from late in the day (around 2002), but AFAIK it is impossible to find a Parallax 6300.
BFL13 05/22/18 07:55pm Tech Issues
RE: Push Or Pull Muffin Fans (?)

It depends on the location of the vents. If there is a lower "in" and a higher "out" then you pull in at the bottom and push out at the top. If the unit is horizontal with a vent at each end, you have a choice which is push and which is pull as long as they aren't the same :) OK if the question is for horizontal and you have one fan for one end, do you suck or blow? Then I am not sure. My converters are like that, but I need to check what they do. The ones I have worked with are easy to mount the other way around, but reversing the wires as mentioned earlier is also a way. Hmm.. COMPUTER CASE TYPE DC "muffin" fans are not "reversible" via the wiring. Do so at your own risk :E Computer case type muffin fans are BRUSHLESS MOTORS AND ARE ELECTRONICALLY DRIVEN. The drivers are not designed to have the polarity reversed and will go up in smoke. Now if you are talking BRUSH type DC motors, then yes you can reverse by changing polarity.. However brush type DC motors are much less efficient and put out tons of RFI noise from brush arcs. OK thanks for the correction. I mounted mine the other way around and left the wiring as is. I got the reverse wiring idea from up-thread (wrong!) I know my RV ceiling vent fans run backwards it you swap the wires--in fact one is supposed to push or pull--you can choose by its switch.
BFL13 05/22/18 06:59pm Tech Issues
RE: Expanding AC distribution panel

The RV 120v "ground" to the frame is the same as the 12v DC "ground" to the frame. They share the frame as "ground". However the 120v also has white neutral, but the DC has white as "negative" (if black is "positive") In an RV you can find one or more DC 12v clusters of white wire that then go to the frame. The 30a 120v shore cord goes to the Main breaker for Black, to the Neutral Buss for White and the bare wire goes to the RV frame via the metal chassis for the 6300 power centre. The lower portion 6300 converter only has two 120v wires, black and white to breaker and neutral buss. It is grounded by its metal chassis touching the main metal chassis, which is grounded via that bare 120v wire to the frame. The DC fuse panel is "grounded" to the frame several ways as mounted, (including the screws holding it in place AFAIK)
BFL13 05/22/18 06:49pm Tech Issues
RE: Push Or Pull Muffin Fans (?)

It depends on the location of the vents. If there is a lower "in" and a higher "out" then you pull in at the bottom and push out at the top. If the unit is horizontal with a vent at each end, you have a choice which is push and which is pull as long as they aren't the same :) OK if the question is for horizontal and you have one fan for one end, do you suck or blow? Then I am not sure. My converters are like that, but I need to check what they do. The ones I have worked with are easy to mount the other way around, but reversing the wires as mentioned earlier is also a way.
BFL13 05/22/18 06:26pm Tech Issues
RE: Expanding AC distribution panel

The 30a "reverse polarity" fuses on the Parallax board are for the hard wired converter "lower portion" PD converters are like deck mounts with the reverse polarity fuses on the converter itself. Can't help with the DC wiring. You just have to hunt around and see what works with one connected, doing one at a time. Huge PITA. Just put the pos and neg output from your DC power supply (converter or whatever) to the battery lugs on the board front or back ones doesn't matter. --- But it does matter if you use the 6300 split board. Then you have to jumper the two pos lugs where before one was red and one was blue wire from the 6300 converter, so it now all works as one pos for all DC fuses. This 1991 MH had a 6300 and somebody got in there in the past. I have DC lights and fans that work even when all the DC fuses are pulled, and not all the fuse slots are filled. No loose wires! It is hopeless, so I am ignoring it.
BFL13 05/22/18 05:26pm Tech Issues
RE: AC Watts vs DC Watts

Test results: Kettle says it is 120v, 1000w In stick house with KillaWatt, no load 117.6v, with kettle on: 115.2v, 8.02a, 924w, 924VA, PF 1.0 In RV, shore power off, MSW inverter on whole house, battery voltage knocked down from 13.6 to sit at 13.0v steady, which is full for AGMs. KillaWatt on , no load 120.9v. With kettle on: (note that KillaWatt got the "right" voltage number despite the inverter being MSW) 117.4v, 8.14a, 939w, 962VA, PF 0.99 Inverter watts display says 1000w DC voltage 12.2v Trimetric says 12.2v, 87.1 amps. Using the Tri numbers for DC power in, 12.2 x 87.1 = 1062.6w 1062.6/962 = 1.105 or 962/1062.6 = 90.5% 1062.6/939 = 1.132 or 939/1062.6 = 88.4% 1062.6/924 = 1.150 (The 0.8 voltage drop on 87 amps with 450AH of AGMs is mostly AFAIK from my convoluted wiring set-up. No worries--it gets the job done)
BFL13 05/22/18 05:02pm Tech Issues
RE: AC Watts vs DC Watts

For the DC power in, do you use the voltage at the inverter terminals or the voltage at the battery posts? ( I never know what is meant by "battery voltage") I have a MSW inverter. The voltmeter in the 120 output receptacles reads in the 90s because it is not a true RMS meter, but the watts meter on the inverter display seems to come out right for the appliance's watts rating for a resistive load. This looks like a job for Mr Kill A Watt!!! Look, up in the sky....
BFL13 05/22/18 04:24pm Tech Issues
RE: Coincidental or electrical gremlins?

You could run the TV/DVD and microwave from an extension cord from the house independent from the 50a shore power. If they work, then you can plug into a receptacle in the rig (you say work) If ok there, then it is the receptacles they normally plug into.
BFL13 05/21/18 08:08pm Tech Issues
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