Except for air-conditioning you can also just run everything from an inverter that your Rv is plugged into and then have a battery charger you buy over here plugged into the 120v campground pedestal to keep the batteries up that are running the inverter. (converter turned off, of course)
I ASSume they have inverters "over 'ome" that do UK style electrical, that are powered by 12v batteries? So buy one of those at home and bring it along?
FWIW, I did ask Dexter tech support some years back why I should get the service done every year even if I had not gone 12K miles yet.
The answer was that the brakes could get rusted from condensation while parked from how they are air cooled. That's where I got the idea using the trailer more often was better.
That brake inspection requires the hubs to come off, and that ties in with their recommended timing for the annual grease job. They insist that this be done by hand so when the parts are cleaned you can do a visual inspection for spalling and such, before you put the new grease on. Using the EZ lube feature does not let you do that visual inspection. Or look at the magnets for shape, and their wires.
IMO that means there is no reason to have the EZ lube at all, since why in heck would you want to lube more often than Dexter says is needed? Turns out it came from the boat trailer world and has become a sales bragging thing for RVs. Oh well.
That was/is their story and I would like to follow that advice for timing except it costs about $400 here to get it done, so I skip the timing and cross my fingers until I get it done again.
On which grease to use, their booklet I got with the 2003 trailer had a list of approved greases and the specs, including that the viscosity index must be 80 or higher.
The garage I use wanted to use one of those listed, Pennzoil 707L but being paranoid , I looked it up and it was VI of 67. Again I asked Dexter about that and was told, after a thank-you, that it was a mistake to list that grease and it would be de-listed. A more recent list shows Pennzoil "Synthetic Red Grease" and for Valvoline, "Multi-purpose GM" and "Durablend"
That later list is no longer new either, so can't say what their latest is. The booklet was/is on-line somewhere.
( I do check my trailer brakes after every hitch-up using the manual slider on the brake control so I know I have brakes, and I also do the pull test on the breakaway switch at least once a year. It is good to see that 12 amps showing on the Trimetric, and how the trailer will not roll when the truck tries to. I figure that means at least there is no grease all over the brakes even if I have gone past the inspection schedule time)
IMO it has a lot to do with how often you tow the trailer. Sitting there the brakes can get rusted via the air cooling holes, which is why they say to check the brakes every year.
Meanwhile they say to do the bearings by hand every year or every 12K miles whichever comes first, and that requires the hubs to be off too. Which is when you can check the brakes too and meet that time table now the hubs are off anyway.
So what do you do if you only go 6K a year? You can get away with not removing the hubs and doing the bearings by hand till next year, but now you can't see the brakes. So that is where IMO how often you move it comes into play.
If you move it often then IMO you can get away without checking the brakes with the hubs off so often, since they won't have rusted in place.
So now how often do you have to take the hubs off and still get away with it? No idea. I go by how much money I have or don't, and then convince myself it is ok to skip this time around if I am short of money (I can't do it myself)
You will never know how long you can get away with it until it goes bad on you, then you know that was too long :)
I did find out that having the whole thing done by pros is good when they found the equalizer bolts had worn the holes bigger and were about to go through and it needed new equalizers and bolts etc. I didn't get the wet kit like I should have I suppose. So if you skip the bearings and the brakes, you might still have your equalizers fall off! RVing is out to get you :(
I know it is not the same at 0F as 30F, but with no solar I have been running my 3000 to do a 60-85 on a 700AH bank in 2.3 hours with 140 amps going in. (100amps PowerMax plus 40a Vector)
So that is from being down 420AH on the second morning to get back to about 420 plus 175 = 595/700 = 85% SOC. With some solar follow up you could get to a decent SOC that same day.
You have the 3000, the charger portion of the new inverter/charger, and tons of solar already. So what's the problem? You can be the new Mr Wiz for getting by every day :)
I just re-read the thread and don't see the problem. If the OP wishes to complain then I am prepared to revise my thinking.
So far we seem to have sorted him out on his questions regarding the use of a Trimetric vs a solar controller's own panel, the usefulness of the proposed BlueSky 12 only MPPT, maybe on the tilting or not, and on portable or not.
Let the OP give us a hard time; or else he can ask more questions till we get it right. :)
I just removed two 6v batteries from my fifth wheel rv. I'm going to replace them with two 12v batteries. When I removed the 6v batteries, there was one wire running from pos to pos on the two batteries. There were two large white wires from the rv and going to the neg post of one battery. There was also two large black wires going from the rv to the neg battery post of the other 6v battery. With the one wire that was running from pos to pos of both batteries, that tells me that they were both wired in parallel? Am I right? What confuses me is if they are both 6v batteries, wouldn't they need to be wired in series to get 12v in an RV that is 12v?
My fear is installing the two new 12v batteries. I don't want to wire the same only to find out it's wired in series. I don't want to screw things up with 24v.
Can you help me out? Thanks
Two 6 volt batts need to be wired pos on one batt to neg on the other batt to make up a 12v batt.
Then the load pos and neg goes on the other batt posts not being used.
Reading your description it is impossible. The two black (pos) wires should have gone to the pos post of one of the 6s not the neg post. The two white wires should have gone to the neg post of the other battery, which they did.
I can't figure out how you ever got anything as it was. Perhaps you didn't need to swap 6v for two 12s, but just got the wiring right on the 6s.
Basically I need to know if I should drain the carb between exercise periods.
I can see going two months at the coldest part of the year. But in actual fact I've not used the genny except to exercise it since August.--That I feel would be too long. I do fill it with premium which does have less ethanol (or so I'm told).
I do load it down during the exercise period. I do know it will start at -25 C (takes about 4 tries, with one minute between attempts).
I do have it modified so I can "boost" it, or use a trickle charger on it, and I do have a way to use a block heater on it (so far, I have not bothered).
Good that you have sorted out the electrical side. Can't help with the fuel question itself since A, it doesn't get as cold here, and B, we use the gen more often.
Perhaps your situation is more like at the Dealer's store where it sits forever till somebody buys it. What do they do?
Yes you can replace that Atwood with a PD converter and Charge Wizard or Pendant.
Or you can do the same thing with a PowerMax unit. They also offer a choice of deck mount , lower-portion only replacement of the charger, or replace the whole power centre with a 60amper included:
If you are going off on a trip on 1 May, then let the whole thing freeze till 28 April. Just winterize the thing (pink stuff in water pipes) and pretend it is not out there till it warms up!
It is already past freezing time here of course, so your turn will come eventually :)
Meanwhile even in the cold, leave it plugged in so the converter on Float charge can keep the batteries up to speed.
Never mind if the OP is a MH only issue. If not, then :
Our trailer came with the RVQ set-up on the back right corner while the propane tanks and their regulator are on the front left corner. There is a long pipe from the tanks back and across to the RVQ connection.
We cannot use one of those BBQs that has its own regulator from the trailer's connection. With a "normal" BBQ, the option is to take out one of the trailer's propane tanks and attach it to the BBQ
I have seen long term campers get a huge propane tank set next to their rig, but not sure how they connect it. I assume it just takes the place of a smaller tank and uses the same regulator that it uses.
Some of those guys even have the propane delivery tanker truck come by and fill them up.
Eleven-year old Honda 3000 here. Change oil once a year. Use it camping once a month except December. No exercising between trips. No stuff in gas. Just shut it off, never touch the fuel thing.
One thing though, the first year sometime when we used it less frequently the battery in it died. Not replaced and have been using the pull cord for the ten years since. I suppose if you really care about having an electric start you should do something with the wires and attach a trickle charger, no idea.
Got a test in the yard running where it is on a full battery (the truck's) on a cloudy/sunny day hardly half an amp though
First, my controller has some sort of index error where if I set it to 14.4 for cease-charging it goes to 14.8. 14.8 lets it go to 15.2 and now I have it at 14.0 and it is sitting at 14.4. OK, I can live with that, once I know what's what.
Next, the main screen actual voltage showing is say 14.4 but my meter says 14.5v I can live with that too. Still need some time with this to learn if the voltages you set are nominal and then it uses the temp compensated version or what.
Main thing is that it seems to sit at the cease-charging voltage, so that is also the float voltage maybe. It says it should drop in voltage once it gets there but nothing happened. I am hoping it does mean this is also the float voltage so it stays at my intended Vabs till dark. Need to use this controller in real life for a few days to be sure how it behaves.
The main display shows all bars full and the incoming arrow is black and flashing on and off, which is consistent with it being in float stage, full battery.
---Turned on the truck's lights and voltage dropped fast to 11.8, the incoming arrow changed to not flashing but showing moving black toward the battery icon which means it is charging and the bars dropped to show only about half full. So that all works.
Lights off, bars filling up, voltage rising into the 12s, so we'll see if it can get back to 14.4 (my setting is 14.0 to get that) with the poor solar conditions today.
The amps read-out shows various small amperages with the sky changing a lot and the battery is full anyway. At least it does show some amps, so that works too.
If it were for storage float, I would just set that voltage to whatever float voltage is desired, like 13.4 or whatever.
This test is not going to show if it is Series with amps tapering at Vabs, because the sky is cloudy and not enough amps to tell anything much, and the battery is not down far enough to show that anyway.
However if it were a Shunt on-off type, I would expect to have seen voltage running up and down the scale like my old shunt controller did it once it reached the high set point, and here the voltage is just staying there.
Queale Electronics (250-388-6111) in Victoria might have them or can get them. They got my replacement in-rush thermistors to repair my converters at less cost than it would have been ordering them myself.
Also people have mentioned cases where it lets you drop to 13.6 from 14.4 if your generator is maxed out and can't do it at 14.4. Later you can then put it back to 14.4 when the gen can handle that now.
I was thinking of Iota with IQ4. Goes 14.8, 14.2, 13.6 -scroll down here to the voltages:
I said "some" in case there are others, but also, "Some is at least one" :)
If you get the IPN-ProRemote spring for a shunt connection to make it a battery monitor to forego the Trimetric.
There is nothing wrong with the Blue Sky MPPT Solar Boost 2512iX charge controller.
Here's what's wrong with it:
Max voltage input spec: 35VDC absolute maximum (Recommend maximum VOC at STC ? 28VDC)
It is MPPT, but only for "12v," so can't put the two 12s in series for "proper" MPPT at "24v" where there is some serious voltage to make amps from. 12v MPPT is minimally better than PWM for daily AH.
This is a specialty controller designed for a special set-up involving several networked controllers in some sort of specialty solar farm. It has little relevance to RV solar IMO
The installer suggests an alternative for less cost would be the 2000 which is a real oldie. Indicates he must have a bunch of old/discontinued BlueSky stock he is using in his kits?
He may well be reputable and a good installer, but I would only have him do the installation of the components I chose, not that stuff he has out back he got somewhere :(
I like the panels, not keen on the controller, not a clue about the mounting bits and pieces and wiring with the kit. (Generally I don't think much of kits. Would rather pick own components.)
The controller is maybe going out of production? --must be on sale at this place for a reason. ISTR this controller was mentioned before and it has some limitations wrt input voltage? --was something not right about it- whatever--others will know better if I am on the wrong track here.
IMO you could get the panels and select a controller of your own. With those two panels you have an option to go series 24v MPPT or parallel them for 12v PWM (way less controller cost, nearly the same amp hours a day)
The mounting bits and pieces discussion came up in a thread mena661 had going recently. Should review that. Most of those kits have the wrong pieces was the main point ISTR
If you have as much panel as you need tilted, then twice the panels lying flat you should still be at least as well off, so IMO you don't need the tilt. Might come in handy though.