A lot of the big restaurants South of Myrtle Beach, such as Crabby Mikes, close during the off season. Make sure you call before you head out , or do a drive by during the day.
A great hamburger place is River City Café, in Murrells Inlet. Don't be fooled by the look of the exterior. It is a rustic style place, but the burgers are great!
Same as the above post, I bought a gas line shut off valve. Used a double male pipe thread fitting to install it to the drain of the water heater. To keep the water from running down the side of the trailer, or pooling in the panel box, I carry a six inch length of brass pipe and just finger tight thread it into the shut off valve.
I've used this method on five trailers so far and never had a problem.
You might give Lippert Industries a try. Where they used to be the frame supplier to almost all of the RV industry, since the 2008 financial collapse, they have been buying up most of the small independent RV suppliers. While it does form a monopoly of sorts, they are allowing the companies to operate under their former names.
On our previous trailer, I had to have a hatch style door made to replace the leaking cabinet doors on one of the basement access points. The order went to Lippert! I'll bet they own the company that makes the frame less windows and the door also.
I am a former Open Road owner. Had mine six and a half years before a major problem. Probably would have kept the unit after repairs except I lost trust and faith in the person/ company that did the repairs. Anyway, You asked for information about the seal on the underside of the slide. As I remember, it has a wiper seal much the same as those on the sides and top. What year is you Pilgrim?
You can private message me if you want to discuss this further, as I have a friend with a 2003 and I'm sure I can get you some pics if you still want them.
Yes, it is named "Liquid rubber Roof". It runs about $50. per quart and can be put on with a simple paint brush. You may be able to pick it up at a local RV supply, or dealership.
Simple to put on:
1. tape the area off about 4" outside the affected area.
2. mix the catalyst into the LRR EPDM material. It has to sit about ten minutes before applying.
3. Clean the area to be applied with denatured alcohol.
4. When cleaned area is dry, apply the EPDM liberally.
5. IMPORTANT, remove the masking tape before the EPDM cures!
6. Any left over product can be stored for a while in a freezer, especially if you feel a second coat is needed. It can be applied after 24 hours.
While you are at it, clean, tape off, and seal all lap joint protected
penetrations of the rubber roof, such as around sky lights and vent tubes. Also where the front cap and, or rear caps meet the roof. I've used it on two trailers and had excellent results.
When you say "do it yourself," do you mean to install the hitch in your tow vehicle yourself? Could be a simple task if you already have bed rails in the bed, but if you have never installed a fifth wheel hitch, make sure you do your research as to the placement of it. My experience tells me the center point of the pin should be two inches ahead of the center of the differential/ axles!
Another disappointed Coachmen owner here. Our 2011 lemon has been back to the factory twice for warranty work and it still has problems. To date, the list is forty three problems and still growing. As the previous poster said, there is too much incentive to push units out the door and leave the problems to the dealers to fix. Very poor quality control at the factory!
Over the past three years, I have had to make repairs to the trailer every time we have gone out. One major problem was discovered by a Forest River dealer, who was doing warranty work right after our first trip. I had noted the bedroom slide did not appear to be aligned correctly. When they checked, they found the ram that operates it had twisted in it's mount, due to the jam nut not being tightened, causing a fitting to break and leak red transmission oil onto the carpet, under the bed. Had they not found this, it would have eventually ruined the carpet and leaked into the basement area! Fortunately, under warranty, they were able to have a professional come in and clean the carpet.
We also had a faulty aluminum rim on the rig. Someone, either at the factory, the driver who delivered it to the dealer, or the dealerships driver, who picked up the unit from the wrong dealership, put a can of stop leak into the tire. It did not hold/ stop the leak, as the wheel would loose up to fifteen pounds of air per day! The tire and rim were replaced and I had the old one repaired and now carry that as the spare.
Should I mention the black tank valve stuck open twice! Poor engineering on the part of Coachmen. Problem, trying to make a solid wire cable bend around a one inch radius corner! The valve was repositioned and problem was cured! Why can't the factory engineers figure this out
I had an E-mail from Ultra Fab today and they pretty much said it would not be worth the money to add the lower glide plate also. I am going to stick with the standard Trailair optional hitch, offered and ordered from the manufacturer. It has to be better than the plain old steel tongue sticking out of the front of the camper!
The last two campers were equipped that way and I'm tired of being beaten to death on the concrete Interstates. Short of selling my present Reese hitch and investing in a Hensley air ride hitch, this Trailair option appears to be the best.
I do want to thank the people who have responded, but please lets get back to the question I asked.
I have ordered the Trailair pin box as a factory installed option on my new trailer. What the pin box does not have is the rubberized pin plate to reduce the horizontal movement of starting and stopping, or the rhythmic banging on concrete roads. I want to know if it is possible to add this plate and if anyone has done so, what is the part #!
I've just placed an order for a new fifth wheel taking the option for a Trailair pin box. However, it does not come as a Tri-Glide from the company. Has anyone purchased the "chucking" plate, from Ultra Fab/ Trailair, to convert the standard air bag pin box to the new style Tri-Glide. If so, can you give the part number I would need to order one.
If your trailer does not have an enclosed belly, all of the frame would be visible. If the shop has a level floor, it is as simple as taking a tape measure and measuring from the floor to each frame rail.
From the description you gave, it sounds to me as though one of the main I beams has cracked, probably near, or at one of the spring perches.
One other possibility is the screws holding the trailer box to the frame have rusted through and the box has shifted.
What you may need to do is determine if, as you say, you hit something, such as a huge pot hole, or curbing, which could have caused an extreme stress to the unit, maybe you will get lucky , as I did and have the insurance company cover it. I had an aluminum frame member break inside the wall of a camper, around a slide. The outer skin had to be removed and the weld repaired and the wall framing re-enforced. The shop also found the left side I beam had lost its upward camber, causing the rear of the unit to hang a little lower on the side where the weld failed. It was covered under comprehensive as an undetermined road hazard collision! All I paid was the deductible. The rest of the bill was 18 K! Might be, your insurance company would prefer to total your trailer and give you a check for the value, which in M. O. O. might be the best thing to accept with a ten year old trailer.
This type os failure could happen to any trailer, although it is more prevalent with Lippert frames. The problem stems from two sources. Firat, the physics of the pin box.
Think back to high school physics class and the lever and folcrum forces problems. You have a two foot arm, "pin box arm," and 30+ feet of trailer on the other side of the folcrum point, which weighs several ton. The simple up and down motion of the trailer, aS it rides behind the truck,even on smooth roads, and the momentum of the long trailer side of the arm, puts tremendous torque load on all of the welds and tubing supporting the pin box! It becomes a simple bend it back and forth until it fails!
Lets add into this the wonderfully smooth roads our trailers are towed over. We just returned home from a four thousand mile, two month trip. The roads across the south, mostly concreete, beat us to death.
The only fix, either buy a Hensly glide hitch, or a Trailair tri glide pin box. Either one of these will reduce the shock of the road bumps, but will still not fix the physics of the lever and fulcrum problem. That can only be fixed by a structural engineer who can calculate the stresses on the frame and design a strengthening plan for a competent welding shop!
Unfortunately, RV's and trailers are like most automobiles. They are designed to sell and will last only a few years before needing to be replaced, or completely refitted from the frame up. You can bet a trailer as old as the one mentioned here has passed through several trades and the dealers do nothing but what is minimally required to sell it to another owner.
Within the past month, my wife and I stayed at two Good Sam rated camp grounds. We chose these places based on the ratings in the latest TrailerLife Directory. Unfortunately, both of them did not live up to their high ratings. Is there a way for members to respond or change the ratings to a more realistic level?
Several years ago with another fifthwheel, we traveled the length of the Natchez Trace Parkway, from Nashville to Natchez. The height of our rig was 12'8". There was no problem negotiating the route with that rig.
Now we have a new fifthwheel, which if my measurements are right is 13'2" high. We want to take the Parkway again, but is this unit too tall for the bridges?
Hope you can help,
As stated, both have their advantages and disadvantages. I'm not really sure what my preference is, but my previous fifth wheel did have a problem with a broken weld, in the aluminum frame, around a large slide out. This caused a crack in the external skin, requiring an $18 K fix to the wall and replacement of the extrerior skin! I don't care which manufacturer builds the trailer, you can bet they use the least amount of materials and design to the minimum degree any bracing, or gusetting in the wall construction. Over time, and it took six years and 40 K miles over our so well maintaned American roads for the fatigue cracking to appear.
The present traielr has aluminum framed sidewalls, but the year is wood framed. Why, I could not find out. How did I find out it was wood? We were rear ended last spring while sitting stopped at a light. Had the factory do the repairs and was surprised to find the rear wall was wood framed. The manager of the factory repair shop could not give me a reason why they chose to make that wall out of wood. My guess, it comes to cost of materials and construction!
A previous travel trailer was the typical lap jointed aluminum skin over wood frame and bat insullation. This trailer sat on a seasonal site and was not towed. However, over the course of five winters, the aluminum expanded and contracted enough to creat leaks. Water got in, soaked the insulation, causing mold to form in the carpet and rotting the external wall framing. By the time the damage was discovered, it was too late to fix it. The Insurance company totalled the trailer and gave us a check for it's value, under Comprehensive!
In my honest opinion, it is a wash as to which build is better. Just understand that even if you spend the high dollar, it is a recreational use product and hs it's own life span before problems will crop up. You just have to know when to fold and replace it!
On Coachmen built units and likely others using slide extender tubes with the rack and pinion style gear strip, the tubes are hollow, with an open slit on one side. These square tubes go into the basement area of the campers and I'm pretty sure are accesable to critters even when the slides are closed. If one or more of them crawl into the tube, they have access to the basement area of the camper! Now comes the question, how does one close this hole? Being that i just had my bought with a mouse in the basement of my Coachmen fifth wheel, I will be looking at this situation and devising a critter block!
One other place where they might gain access is between the belly skin panels. Mine do have bulges between the lag screws holding them up to the pine boards stretched between the frame rails. It does not take very much room for the mice to gain entry. Another design problem due to be addressed as soon as the weather is appropriate for lying under the trailer!
From what I was told by the Administration of Coachmen, which is owned by Forest River, almost all of the manufacturers shut down for two weeks around Christmas. It also seems to be true for the suppliers as well.
Just read the post on Stone Mountain and now I'm not sure i want to stop there overnight. I was hoping to use it for its' PassPort America rate. However, from what i read, there may be an additional entrance charge? The place may not be well suited for towing a 37' fifthwheel through, or setting up in a site for one night?
Anyone have any other suggestions for a campground maybe oin the south western side along I-85.
Between this thread and the other, with 46 pages of debate, WOW!
Lowsuv, you said to that a person with a 15,000 lb. trailer should put the highest load rated tire on the rig. Most LT - E rated tires are 3042 @ 80 PSI, although the Firestone Transforce is rated at 3086. That said, the ST tires are rated at 3240, @ 80 PSI. So, if it is true one should put the highest load rated tires on their rigs, then the choice must be E rated ST tires!
Trying to digest the information from both threads, it seems that the first thing a person should do is to load the trailer the way it is to be camped in/ towed down the highway. Then get the trailer weighed, preferably with a scale under each tire! This giving the true GVW as used.
If the four individual wheel weights add up to less than the rated combined load weights of four LT tires, then it could be assumed they would be safe for the trailer. What happens if you are towing the trailer over the max weight for these tires? The fact that they carry a speed rated higher than ST tires and maybe a higher load heat index, would you still be safe? I suppose you would just have to experiment with them!
This is the dilema I presently face, as I have a trailer with OEM E rated ST tires, with two years of travel on them. I don't trust them and am looking to replace them. I have no idea where I would find a set of scales to weigh the trailer and the closest truck scale that i know of is a 70 mile drive one way. Do I stick with ST tires as per the manufacturers specs, or role the dice for a set of LT Transforce and wait to find a scale, hoping my trailer is under the max the LT's are rated for?
No easy answer here!