My rig came from the factory with LT's. My rims don't say anything about ST's only. Maybe you have cheap rims.
If that's the choice of the engineers who designed it, then it works for me.
I've since twice replaced them with LT's.
Never a problem.
My previous trailer, however, had multiple tire issues. ST tires. Go figure.
Around here the bigger reputable tire dealers will not put an LT tire om a trailer.........
I don't know what counts as "bigger reputable" but Discount Tires put the last two sets of LT on my camping trailer.
My camper came with LT's, load range E. 245R70 16's. They rot out before they wear out. I replace them at 5 years, regardless of tread condition. Give the pull offs to my farmer son-in-law for use on farm pickups. Cheap insurance.
My rig is 11 years old. Over the years I have cleaned and waxed it twice a year with various products of the types commonly sold at Camping World and other RV supply stores.
Despite this regular care the finish was deteriorating, no matter how hard I scrubbed and rubbed. The end caps especially were showing their age.
All the fancy fiberglass boats at the marina, many of them 20-30 years old, always seem to gleam. So I asked the guy what process they used to keep them looking so good.
He recommended a three-product system from Meguiar.
The first step is "Oxidation Remover #49". Be prepared to WORK, but the result is stunning. I used a good Porter Cable random orbit polisher with lots of power, and wore out 4 polishing pads and a half-dozen high quality bonnets. Swap out the bonnets often with fresh clean ones. They'll last several washings. Stock up on pads and bonnets before you start the job. Do a small section at a time, and don't let it dry --- wipe immediately.
Second step, about every hour or so, apply their "High Gloss Polish #45" to the area you have stripped. Easy wipe on/wipe off application. Again, DO NOT LET IT DRY.
Third step, after you get a large area de-oxidized and polished, apply their "Pure Wax #56" product. Dry to haze, wipes off easily.
My rig is a 36-footer, and I used most of two bottles of each of the three products. The entire job took me the better part of 3 days. The guy at the marina said if I do it about every three-four months, I will only need to do steps 2 and 3. Both those steps are easy, and the entire job will easily finish in a single long afternoon.
The results are beyond my expectation. The last time I polished and waxed (in December) the finish was "cloudy" and lifeless, and quite honestly was just looking OLD. Today the entire camper finish, including the end caps, looks showroom new.
(Notice the reflection my my step ladder on the side of the camper.)
Everyone of the trucks has it's strong points and it's weaker (comparative) points. Each buyer makes a judgement call on which of those points is important to HIM for the way (S)HE will use the vehicle. Over the years I have bought 3 "big" diesel trucks, and I shopped all brands with an open mind each time. Shopping by name badge just makes no sense to me. If you do that, then you've let the TV commercials do your thinking for you, or "I drive 'cuz my Daddy always did." Blind stupidity.
I've decided that if I could buy the "perfect" truck, it would have a Cummins diesel, GM running gear/suspension, Ford cabin, and an Allison transmission. But nobody is building that truck, so I just research each time that I need a new one, based on MY NEEDS, not of which one impressed a magazine flunky.
I have a 2008 Chev with the integrated trailer brake controller option. The thing is flaky.
Sometimes (even with no trailer connected) it gives me a DIC message to "Service Trailer Brake System".
When connected to a trailer, sometimes it will fail to see the trailer. Or sometimes it will work fine until I stop the engine, then it will fail to see the trailer connected when I restart.
I have checked all the connections up and down the food chain, and they all seem fine. The trailer brake circuit checks out good, with proper grounds and proper resistance value.