RE: Weber Q regulator question
Here's the link to a sticky that I wrote for the Keystone Forum that explains all of this in detail including photos.
http://www.keystonerv.org/forums/showthread.php?t=9739
You may have to cut and paste in into your browser.
RE: How much HP & torque do I need ?
IMHO, the most capable of the 1/2 ton trucks is the Tundra with about the same HP and torque as the Ford 6.2L gasser. The differential and the brakes were massive and with the 5.7L and 4:30 rear end it was a stump puller. It towed my 8000 lb trailer with no effort but I traded it for the reason most people trade 1/2 ton trucks... Payload. Just keep in mind there is more to selecting a TV than reading the published tow ratings and adding any of the aftermarket stuff is not going to increase any of the capacities any appreciable amount, if any.
RE: Finally got my WDH set-up right!
Truck nose looks high to me. But it's difficult to tell with all the black and the shadow
The nose being high doesn't really mean anything. The purpose of WD is not to make the TV sit level, and in most cases it probably won't.
Actually, IF the nose is high. It does mean something. It means you are unloading the steering axles, reducing steering control. and unloading the steering axles, and reducing steering control, is a bad thing.
Reality is. The TV should sit pretty much the same, hooked up, as it does unhooked.
From the picture. It does look nose high, and tail down. But is hard to tell. Big question is. How does it tow? If you have -O- sway. Good to go.
If the nose appears high because of rear end squat, it doesn't mean the front end is too light. Too many people think the purpose of WD is to make the truck sit level and it is not. The OP's verification that the front fender height is within Ford's specification tells us the WD is adjusted correctly.
Uh you need to read again. He hasn't measured it with this setup. Since addng 2 more washers. Said he dosen't know.
But did say it towes well. All that counts.
That's not all that counts, and it doesn't indicate a correct WD adjustment, but there's nothing to stop you from tweaking your rig until the truck "feels right".. Go for it.
RE: Finally got my WDH set-up right!
The front will often look high. The general rule of thumb I've always gone by (and it came from tips on this forum!) is the front shouldn't rise more than an inch from stock height.
That's not exactly correct and there has been a lot of bad information given out on this forum.
The front end should be restored to the height specified in the truck's manual. That can be anywhere from the original height to 1/2 of the difference of the unhitched and hitched height.The amount of rise can be measured at the fender cutout and in line with the axle. The front end is going to appear as thought it raised, but that's because of the rear squat of the TV, so there is no specified distance that is acceptable for front end height increase.
RE: How much HP & torque do I need ?
Simple answer is, any 1/2 ton truck with a V-8 and tow package will easily handle a 4000# trailer. IMO, the tow package is the critical piece if you are towing through the mountains because of the transmission cooler and the brake assist function of the tow'haul option.
RE: Finally got my WDH set-up right!
Truck nose looks high to me. But it's difficult to tell with all the black and the shadow
The nose being high doesn't really mean anything. The purpose of WD is not to make the TV sit level, and in most cases it probably won't.
Actually, IF the nose is high. It does mean something. It means you are unloading the steering axles, reducing steering control. and unloading the steering axles, and reducing steering control, is a bad thing.
Reality is. The TV should sit pretty much the same, hooked up, as it does unhooked.
From the picture. It does look nose high, and tail down. But is hard to tell. Big question is. How does it tow? If you have -O- sway. Good to go.
If the nose appears high because of rear end squat, it doesn't mean the front end is too light. Too many people think the purpose of WD is to make the truck sit level and it is not. The OP's verification that the front fender height is within Ford's specification tells us the WD is adjusted correctly.
RE: Replacing shore power cable for plug.
It would make more sense to have an outlet type connection, and just make your shore cable a double male (one at each end). It would be much safer. Keep in mind, YOU may know it's "live", but some child could go exploring, and get killed. At least try and make it "code".
Never, ever make a double male ended extention chord. If you have one cut it up before someone gets killed.
To begin with, you will never find a trailer shore power inlet that is female. They are all male so that it will only accept a female type connector. Why would you ever want to take a chance of having a hot male plug laying on the ground. What is it about that that makes sense?
RE: Finally got my WDH set-up right!
Truck nose looks high to me. But it's difficult to tell with all the black and the shadow
The nose being high doesn't really mean anything. The purpose of WD is not to make the TV sit level, and in most cases it probably won't.
RE: Replacing shore power cable for plug.
As I stated above, if all of the parts included with the inlet are used, including a protective cover that secures to the back side, there are NO exposed terminals on the back of the plug. I have installed many of these inlets and they are perfectly safe when correctly installed.
RE: Finally got my WDH set-up right!
Looks good doesn't guarantee that it's set up right. The only way to tell is to determine that the correct amount of weight is being transferred back to the front axle and that can be done either on a scale or by measuring the front fender height over the axle.
RE: Replacing shore power cable for plug.
The problem I have with the set up you show in the picture, is that it will have a "Hot" plug inside that cover. If you were to reach in, you'd get electrocuted.:(
It would make more sense to have an outlet type connection, and just make your shore cable a double male (one at each end). It would be much safer.
Keep in mind, YOU may know it's "live", but some child could go exploring, and get killed. At least try and make it "code".
Good luck
The inlet on the trailer is male plug configuration. The shore power end that plugs into it is female, so there are no hot exposed terminals. The inlet also comes with a cover on the back that encloses everything. The only way there are any exposed hot terminals is if you don't use all of the parts that come with it.
RE: Tow vehicle upgrade
"Souping up" the vehicle with headers, gears, chips, etc. are going to little to increase any of the capacities of the vehicle. I would really be hesitant to spend that kind of coin on a old vehicle. You'll be much happier with a truck that has the HP, torque, and payload capacity to do the job.
RE: Propane level
How are you determining that the propane level is decreasing? Propane pressure is not relative to volume and while the pressure inside the tank may rise somewhat as a result of heat, you can not measure that.A pressure gauge is not very useful for much besides leak testing the system.
RE: Ease of Reese installation?
I wouldn't tow a trailer with that much tongue weight without WD for any distance. Most dealers do not know how to set up WD, and if they do they do not want one of their techs tied up on it when they could be generating revenue on the next job. They will probably crank it up tight enough to level the truck, call it good, and send you out the door. I just don't trust dealers to set them up. Take a tape measure and check his work. If the hitched height of the front fender is not where the truck's manual says it should be, get them to do it over until it's right. You will certainly want the anti-sway portion installed, but you can get safely home without it, just maintain a reasonable speed and slow down if it begins to sway. If they don't adjust the WD correctly, that's easy to fix, but i would not let them install the dual-cam, it's just too instruction intensive and the measurements are critical and vary hard to correct if installed incorrectly.
Keep in mind, you'll need to readjust the WD after you get the trailer loaded and if you add any addition items like helper springs or air bags.
RE: Tools you pack along in your TT?
One item that no one has mentioned is an infrared thermometer. They can be had for around $60 and are a great tool to check for an overheated wheel bearing.
RE: Tools you pack along in your TT?
Small set of sockets, wrenches, pliers, screwdrivers, wire cutter/strippers/crimpers, torque wrench and socket for lug nuts, air compressor, 12V tester. Surprisingly,
I think spare parts are more important than tool. You can always borrow a little used tool from someone. I carry spare bulbs(interior & exterior), fuses, Flair-it plumbing connectors, extra shore power cable, extra water hose, hose repair kits, spare propane regulator, both types of thread tape, butyl putty, GFCI outlet, electrical connectors, extension cord
RE: installing a house toilet in our trailer
I think you would have to spend an awful lot of time on the toilet to justify the expense and hassle of changing it out.
RE: Is this a can of worms?
Okay, A friend with 3/4 ton Dodge noted my 1500 (half ton) has too little tow capacity. True, there is a difference, I don't argue that at all. But look at this...
in 2000, I had a 2500HD Chevy with a 10k tow rating (WD hitch)
in 2005, I had an F150 with 9500k tow rating (WD)
today, I have a 1500 GMC with a 9700k tow rating (WD)
I also currently have a 1979 Chevy with a 5k tow rating (WD).
My point to my friend is that over the years, the 1500 has become what the old 3/4 ton trucks were...they evolved. I keep within my tow rating no matter what, but am I correct thinking the half ton trucks have double capacity than what they used to?
Remember the 1500HD's? Ford even had F250 and F250 Super Duty (before it became just the SD model).
What do you think?
You are correct in that 1/2 ton trucks have greatly evolved. I have to question if they have progressed as for as the truck ads say they have. I towed 8000 lbs with a Tundra that's one of the stoutest 1/2 tons made. It was rated to pull 10,000, but I really felt that 8K was maxxing it, and I never did any heavy duty mountain towing with it, mostly Interstate and well paved level roads. I'm happier and more comfortable having traded up to a F250 and not worrying if I'm safe or not.
An example is the Ford Ecoboost. It may tow 11,300 and have a big payload according to the specs, but it will be interesting to see how a 6 cylinder, turbo or otherwise, is going to hold up to the rigors of continuous long distance, heavy towing with those turbos kicked in all the time. That's a lot of heat and a lot of stress on that motor, but Ford says it will do it. We'll see.
Bottom line is, when you're towing a heavy trailer across the Colorado Rockies, there's no substitute for payload capacity, braking capability, and cubic inches.
RE: Is this a can of worms?
You can hit over $60K for a F150 King Ranch with all the whistles and bells. That's a lot of coin for any truck, let alone basically a grocery getter.
