I even plugged it in the house without a GFI and it sparked and would not take it. Never been to a park let and plugged into a 50amp.
This scares me. Get an electrician involved.
Until I read this post, I thought you just had a GROUND/NEUTRAL connection somewhere in the RV.
I had that same decision when I bought my MH. My car was old and wouldn't last forever. I bought a tow dolly and towed that car for 3 years. After 3 years, the car had to be replaced due to mechanical reasons. It was spending more time in the shop than on the road. At that point, I sold the tow dolly on Craig's List and put a baseplate on the new car. I plan to tow the new car for 10 to 15 years, hopefully.
If you look I said if you buy new/used from a dealer you will/maybe charged taxes. If you purchase from an individual you do not pay taxes and I mean SALES taxes. there are no taxes generally to license per se but there are registration fees for license plates and sometimes there are velorum taxes, but it will depend your legal residence. I only paid to have the rig registered no taxes but also as I said the registration is generally based on msrp.
Lucky you. In Tennessee you do, indeed, pay full sales tax on a used vehicle. While it is true that you don't pay it to the seller, you pay it when you register and get tags.
Saying that there are no taxes, or no sales taxes, is wrong when the tax is just paid days or even a month later. They are still paid. Now SOME states don't collect sales taxes on used vehicles, but to blanket say that you don't pay taxes is misleading in the extreme.
Now, if you had prefaced that comment with "in my state" I would not have taken issue. It was the broad brush treatment that I objected to.
New always has to have the taxes added. Used will not in most cases involve any taxes if not purchased from a dealer.
This is not true at all. Unless your state doesn't charge taxes on vehicles, you will be hit for all the taxes when you register it in your state.
you can purchase rv insurance from Good Sam to cover your investment. So if you get a used unit from a dealer or individual this would be a way to have some sense of being that you will not be out on a limb if something goes wrong with the unit.
This is not "rv insurance." It is an extended warranty, and most are a waste of money. While there are a few who have had good luck with these, the majority who try to use them get rejected. Search here for "extended warranty" and you will find many threads.
It's usually there to keep it from working while your driving. I "think" the ign disables the power to the TV.
Start the engine and the relay disables power to that outlet, thereby disabling the TV set.
While my personal preference is Progressive Dynamics, call Randy at http://www.bestconverter.com/. He is very knowledgeable and won't steer you wrong. He will recommend what is best for YOUR situation. He recommended a Progressive Dynamics 4655V for me, and I could not be happier.
Go to this website and scroll down. Near the bottom it tells how to reset the Kindle Fire if you forgot your password.
I already went there.The problem is,when I tap 'more' the settings don't come up,the box asking for the password does.I can't seem to get past that.
You didn't scroll down far enough. You will have to go back to that website and SCROLL DOWN to see the images. It is NEAR THE BOTTOM. All that would copy for me was the text.
Forgot Your Password? Reset Your Kindle Fire!
Unfortunately, if you've forgotten your lock screen password there's only ONE way to get back into your tablet: your have to reset your Kindle Fire.
Yep, it's harsh, but Amazon's given us no other way (that I know about) to retrieve a forgotten password.
So here's what you do. Try to enter a four digit pin at least five times. Each time you enter the wrong password, it will say, "Please try again".
On the fifth incorrect attempt the following warning will come up:
Kindle Fire Reset Warning
Mini Exclamation Poin
Again, this is an important warning since doing a Kindle Fire reset to factory defaults will completely wipe out all your data! (That's why it's SO important to choose a password you'll easily remember, as explained in my article on Kindle Fire passwords.)
If you suddenly remember your password, you'll have to patiently (or not so patiently) wait until the "Wait" button finishes counting down and changes to the "Try Again" button.
If you're SURE that:
• you can't remember your password
•you didn't write it down anywhere, and
•no one else knows it to be able to remind you what it is
Then go ahead and tap "Reset".
Congratulations! You Kindle Fire has now been reset to factory defaults!
Kindle Fire Problems
Now that you're done, how about checking out some cool Kindle Fire apps or fun games to download onto your nice clean tablet?
Or, if you're having a different Kindle Fire problem be sure to check out my other resources
Wow. Some very interesting replies. I don't, however, recall asking for any of you virtual strangers to judge my competence to make decisions or run a business based on a few brief sentences. I was simply asking what items came up in a formal offer for an rv park that one wouldn't usually see in, say, purchasing a different type of business, or a single family home.
To the individual who recommended a private message to another member, thank you. That may prove helpful. Likewise the individual who mentioned domain name, e-mail, etc. That likewise was helpful, and although something that's been discussed, not something that had yet made it onto paper.
To those of you who eagerly made wild *(( assumptions about my basic intelligence, skill sets, experience and common sense - seriously? Did you really believe you were being helpful, or did you just get a thrill from feeling superior for 2 seconds? Glad I could make your day.
When someone asks a very elementary question, the assumption must be made that he has a very elementary knowledge, at best. No one is trying to insult you, but everyone is trying to warn you of pitfalls that you may or may not see. If you are so sensitive that you get insulted by these answers, then a public internet forum may not be the best place for you to seek ideas.
With a new MH or towable, you are GOING to have issues that need to be addressed. RV's, even the best ones, always seem to have minor problems that need to be corrected.
With a used MH or towable, you will be getting it after the previous owner has handled those initial headaches. However, you need to worry about the care and attention that the previous owner gave it, and there is probably no longer a warranty. For instance, was the generator properly exercised every month? Was the plumbing properly winterized before freezing temps. Were the seams inspected and resealed on a timely basis to prevent water intrusion? This is not an all inclusive list.
Can you use the magnetic lights that plugs into the 4 pin plug? Rather than having the car plugged in , thus running down the battery and having to get something else for that?
You don't understand how the lights are wired.
You don't use the car's battery to run the lights, except for a brief time when the car's brake pedal is pressed.
You either add new bulbs not wired to the car at all, OR put diodes in the car's wiring to prevent back powering the car's wiring. Then you run a wire to the front of the car where it plugs into the MH wiring. The power for the tail lights, brake lights, and marker lights comes from the MH battery/alternator. Like I said, the car's battery won't be used except when the car's brake pedal is pressed. That will be such a short time it won't cause any problems.
While you CAN use magnetic lights, it will soon become more trouble than it is worth. You will be far happier with permanently wired tail lights.
I hope I didn't sound condescending in this answer. I didn't mean to be. The last thing I would want is to make someone hesitate to ask questions. Heaven knows I have asked my share on here.
OP here. The car is an 04 Chrysler Town & Country minivan. It is not a loose gas cap. One of the things we tried was a new OEM gas cap, but that didn't help. This problem is at least 4 years old, so it can't be the result of new work. It was my Mother's car, and she finally just started ignoring it. She passed away on November 7, and I am getting it ready to sell so I would like to track this problem down.
I will find a garage that has a smoke machine and take it there.
I have a recurrent problem that is triggering a check engine light. It has been in the shop multiple times and they can't find the problem. However, I think I have finally detected a pattern, and want to know if you can tell me what it means.
The error code is the same code that you get if you leave the fuel cap off, an evaporative emissions code. I don't remember right now exactly which one.
However, if I clear the code, it will not trigger again if I keep the fuel tank above 1/4 full. It is only when the tank is 1/4 full or less that the code gets thrown.
If you need the actual code, it will take me several days to drive the fuel level down to where the code is thrown again.
Thanks for any input.
If your batteries are staying up, then the converter is being powered, meaning that the generator is on line powering the ac panel.
Check for a GFI trip.
At least one leg of the panel, the leg with the converter.
My guess is with a 35ft Allegro you have 50 amp service and your generator has tripped eather the 30amp breaker or the 20amp breaker, which ever supplies the dead outlets. The breaker still working is supplying the live tv.
You need to go outside and open the generator compartment, remove the generator cover , find the two breaker switches, and reset whichever is tripped.
Good luck, and I hope it is not something more serious.
This is the best bet.
'Mary believes Nash and Eldred have parked the RV, along with a stolen "Cougar" brand trailer with a single slide-out, somewhere in the Ridgefield area'
The above paragraph from the article fills in some of the blanks in this story.
+1, in spades.