Geeze ... if you start feeling bad, get to a dr. A few years ago, DH took our window a/c units out of the house to clean. They were moldy on the inside fins. He didn't wear gloves or a respirator and he got deathly sick. Breathing in that mold can do a number on you.
He ended up going to the dr and was still sick for a couple of weeks.
Yes, breathing mold spores is VERY dangerous. Having lived in a flood-prone area, I know that mold is impossible to totally get rid of in a large area. You have to be careful breathing chlorine, (bleach)too.
Oh dobntt wurry (cough cough) I... I.... I feee feeble fiiine, hack hack hack... My health izz (wheez wheez) purfektly good!
why is there an extra arm growing out of my back?
CRASH BANG!! - sound of head hitting keyboard!
The TT is stored in the open on a large property.
There is no power available so plugging something in is not an option.
Yes, it does have a leak and the back end is badly rotten in the floor, however, it has been like that for a very long time and I have never had an issue before. I know it is damp inside. In previous years, it only smelled a little damp in the spring when I first used it but everything was as clean as the day I parked it. I would crank up the heat with a few openings cracked and all was well.
Although I leave the roof vents open, I never thought of cracking a window. I have the jalousie windows so can do that without too much risk of water entry.
Security is not an issue - I could probably leave it unlocked and wouldn't have a problem.
Due to the rot, I am actively looking for an affordable replacement but until that time I have to use it like it is.
Thanks for the suggestion about the Damp Rid and Dri-Z-Air. I will check it out for sure.
Argh - not a happy camper!
I dragged my TT out of storage for the first time this year to go camping for the Victoria Day long weekend.
I hooked up, did a cursory check inside, closed the fridge, things like that and got home to load for the weekend.
It was then that I looked at the ceiling and saw mold and mildew all over the place. Further examination revealed the same disgusting mess everywhere, in my tub, toilet, kitchen counter, walls - you name it.
Ugh! simply Ugh! I was so disgusted with it all.
I keep the TT stocked with a large amount of extra bedding, blankets, towels, clothing, undies etc. etc. When I park the thing I strip the bed and put the bedding on the sofa and stand the mattress on edge so it can air out.
Well, the bedding on the sofa was moldy. My pillows have to go straight to the garbage - they are covered in huge mold stains. I opened the wardrobes and everything stunk and much of it had mold on it.
Geeeeeez - not impressed, and I only had a few hours to get ready to leave. So I closed the wardrobes, laundered the bedding and towel I was going to use, did a quick cleanup and left. All weekend, nice and warm out and the place stinks.
I got home and pulled EVERYTHING out, 3 huge garbage bags full and I'm still in the process of bleaching and laundering it all. What a task!
OK, I'm done whining......
What do you guys do with your RV's when stored for months over a very wet rainy winter to prevent this stinky moldy situation?
I always make a point of storing it with the 3 roof vents open about halfway for the winter. They have covers and it rains a LOT here in the winter.
But I think I may have left them closed for 2 or 3 months and opened them on one of my monthly checkups of the rig. Don't remember for sure - CRS strikes again!
I have heard of some device you put in the unit that attracts moisture and drains it to a pan or bucket.
It can't be just me!
IMO, road debris would wreck anything you put under there.
It would be easy to damage the kayaks, being that close to the ground, especially if you drove over a steep entrance to a parking lot of gas station.
Kinda risky I think.
Do you have the right trim for your replacement?
I have done lots of this stuff and the trim is usually a nice tight fit and requires no caulking or anything else to hold it in place, including going around corners.
There are usually 2 little lips that stick inside the aluminum channel to hold it in place and you should have to apply pressure to the molding to get it in. That is you should have to bend the center of the trim, or arch it up in the middle to get the second lip into the groove.
Try taking a small one inch piece and sticking it in there. Then wiggle it from side to side. If there is any play in it it could be that the trim is too small.
The heat gun on the corners is a good idea to help it along.
Some of the old ones I had used a glow plug powered by 2 D cells. The control panel was under a cover at the bottom of the fridge.
I would turn it to pilot, press the gas button and then press the glow plug button and it allegedly would lite the thing.
It worked once in a long while......
BTW, the siding is maybe .024 at best....
It is definitely not .125 - .125 is one eight of an inch thick. There is no way you could bend it at .125
This stuff is close to the same thickness as aluminum house gutters.
This is actually an easy fix, way simpler than one would think.
Don't try to put something different on there as it just won't look right at all.
It is the bottom piece, by far the best one to have to replace. The siding is put on starting at the top and working down to finishing at the bottom. Each piece is inserted into the one above and stapled on to the studs. The bottom piece usually has a 90 degree bend at the bottom and stapled up to the underside of the trailer, or a trim on the bottom to cover the it.
It is not that hard to remove the staples and drop the piece out for replacement. I have done this many times. Of course, you will have to remove all the other stuff in the way, doors, hatches, corner moldings etc.
As for finding a replacement piece, I got all the siding for my rebuild project from Fraserway RV in Abbotsford. They have a siding roll former in their service shop, and have different rollers to match pretty well any profile. 23' long? OK, a bit awkward to move without damage, but I go to Abbotsford all the time and I have a big rack on top of my truck to carry stuff. A simple crate made of 2X4' strapped to my rack will carry the piece intact.
Do yourself a favor and don't try to fiberglass it or checkerplate it or anything else unless you want that look.
I live only a short distance from you, and if you buy me a coffee, I'll stop by and show you in person how to fix it properly. It's easy to do. And if you buy me a donut with that Timmies, I might even stick around and help you fix it!! Bring it to my house in Surrey or I'll run into Vancouver for you. Your call. It is handy to have 2 or 3 guys to hold the piece to install it. It is a bit flimsy to hold by yourself.
Either way, we can replace the damaged piece in an afternoon.
Can you post a picture of the whole side of the trailer so I can see the overall view? Or email it to me?
I lost one on my '03 GMC Dually 4WD. I don't remember the mileage but it was less than 50,000 miles, maybe less than 40.
It was growling really bad and they did the hub and bearings under warranty.
One side only.
Yes Sir Yes Sir Three Bags Full Sir!!
The Dometic thread, although useful, is hopelessly outdated. Those who have had an issue have most likely corrected it by now, after all these years. If they haven't, well maybe we might get the odd bonfire, but they haven't been here anyways so the thread is of no value to them.
Yes! for sure - put the mods at the top as a sticky. It is, and will be a topic of interest for generations to come!!
Well, 280K you may see a few other things start to go like front end and stuff, but really, if it has been a good vehicle for you so far, why not put a tranny in it? Front end and various little things are not that bad to fix, especially when you own it.
The vehicle has served you well, it is paid for, doesn't owe you a bean....
If you replace it with a new Durango, you have a HUGE capital cost outlay, and yeah its nice to have a new set of wheels but payment payment payment - ugh!
You can likely put a tranny in it, with some beefy parts for towing, plus a deluxe cooler, for about 2G or so. A one time shot and no payments... I say 2G because I can get a basic trans done for about 750, knowing people in the business. Hey even 3G is better than 45 or whatever they want for a new one!
If my truck blows something major, I think I would opt to fix it instead of replacing. I hate payments!
For some reason this post was deleted and if so i'd like the mod to tell me why!
This one will be deleted too. If I was a mod I would do it now.
If it has to be explained to you, it is due to the comment you made encouraging theft and dishonesty.
Companies are in business to make a profit. They set the rules and we have to obey them.
It is not the fault of the company that piracy exists. It is because some people are crooked and don't want to pay for service rendered, plain and simple!
If we do not like a company or a service, we have the freedom of choice to find an alternative and not use that company.
This world could use a few less dishonest folks and more honest ones!!
I hope this explains it to you.
I got hit by a drunk driver last Oct 18th.
The drunk cranked a left right dead in front of me and I T-boned him real hard.
The drunk tried to claim that I failed to yield. Well, fortunately the police and witnesses disagreed but in some cases it could have been an issue.
A dashcam would have been a big help if this had gone the other way.
I bought one right after the accident and now use it 100% of the time when I am driving my truck. Anything can happen, anytime, even running to the corner store for milk.
I think they are a great idea and believe we will be seeing more and more of them in use as the driving habits of people seem to be getting worse every day.
I bought mine from London Drugs for a hundred bucks. 32 gig card and it overwrites the old data so I don't have to delete it when full.
As mentioned, most of it is boring nothing but it is there if needed.
The task you propose is easy enough to achieve, using a little common sense.
When you remove the toilet, covering the hole and stopping the water flow are the 2 concerns.
Both are easy to do.
You can do a couple of things here.
1) Terminate it at the point it shows up to feed the toilet. You will need some simple basic plumbing parts. Cut the pipe, use a fitting such as a compression fitting which can be easily fastened on to the cut pipe. The fitting can have a threaded end, into which a simple plug can be screwed to prevent water flow. There are a several different ways to do this, all of which will accomplish what you need.
2) Trace the supply line back to a place where it is out of the way and terminate it there. This would be my preference so you can just cut the pipe by the toilet and shove it in the floor out of the way.
Cover the toilet hole?
Once you undo the bolts fastening the toilet to the floor and remove the fixture, you can fabricate a cover to go over the hole, utilizing the existing toilet attachment provisions to make a cover to go over it. You will need a positive seal to ensure there are no odors entering the coach.
I fabricate anything I need like that from off the shelf parts available at my local Home Hardware or similar store. I would wander the plumbing section and look at things until you see something that will work, and then adapt it to fit. Thats what I do. You may want to get a new toilet gasket to utilize in your cap.
Another thing you can do is remove the toilet flange from the black tank and attempt to find a threaded bung the same size as the flange threads. The toilet flange is threaded into the black tank. Remove the screws from the floor and use a blunt drift punch and a hammer to drive the flange counter clockwise to loosen it.
I thing I would prefer to have the flange left in place to secure the opening through the floor into the black tank so it isn't loose in there.
As mentioned in the above post, do consider if anything else goes into the black tank. Very unlikely, but be sure to confirm anyways. Everything else should drain into the grey tank. Your sinks and shower should go grey. But this isn't always the case though.
Easy rule for all RV's:
The spare you carry is almost always the one you never need.
But the spare you never carry is almost always the one you do need!!
I've had 3 flats over the years with my TT's. I was real glad I had a spare every time.
I bought a brand new flatdeck trailer about 3 years ago. No spare.
I was on the last leg of a 1500 mile trip with it, 100 miles from home when the left rear tire exploded. So there I was on a weekend, on the side of the highway with no spare.
I had to unhook the trailer, leaving it on the side of the road with my cargo on it, remove the dead tire, throw it in the back of my pickup and drive to the nearest town which was fortunately very close. Then I had to call the after hours emergency number to get someone out to a tire shop to sell me a new one.
You know, that emergency number that is a license to print money..... I was at their mercy and I needed a tire so I had to pay the callout fee.
Bottom line, get a spare and find a good place to carry it. That is like insurance that you won't need it!! :B
I was in Mesa, Arizona last week and I spotted a bumper sticker on a parked car that read,
"I miss Surrey, B.C."
So, I broke the window, Stole the radio, Shot out two tires and left a note that read, "I hope this helps!"