Once again I turn to fellow RV'ers for your expertise.
I am helping a friend with a Dometic refrigerator - in the back, at the bottom of the access area, there is a dry yellowish powder like substance. Could this be dried ammonia? Or some magical substance left behind by big foot. The RV is used quite a bit, just a bit shy of full time.
Thanks in advance
Thanks all! Great info... I did not know the regulators were adjustable. Who or how does one adjust them? The first two replacement regulators leaked. We could smell it in the propane compartment, hoses checked OK. Then we switched to a different manufacturer.
Doug .. I "think" the regulator is malfunctioning, no test preformed. It is doing the same stuff it did last time we replaced it. My husband was on the phone with a Precision Temp technician who had him do a bunch of tests. The result was replace the regulator. Admittedly, the water heater is a little picky and it is not the latest model but it is ours until death do us part.
Old-Biscuit... we rotate between three tanks. 2 30# in the 5th wheel and a big one, 50 gal, at our home base. The 30# ones are filled when we are on the road where ever it is convenient. The propane company fills the big tank. I do not think the propane company sells regulators, but they did make the hose to connect to the big tank for us. We have been on the big tank for almost a month. When we are on the 30# tanks, we do not keep both tanks open. We use one until it runs out, then switch over. The directions for the new regulator says to leave both tanks open, it will switch automatically and turn red. Yea... right. Like I will see that... don't know if that makes a difference. The 30# tanks are off when we are on the 50 gal. Cylinders filled at different locations and no icing. Overfilled is a possibility, but not on the 50 gal.
The current regulator makes a clicking or faint knocking noise. It is random and does it on both the big tank and when on the road, on the 30# tanks. When I turn the A/B switch it stops. Sorry... I forgot to mention that.
Also no leaks from the hoses. Another point... we just learned that there is Teflon tape for propane - it is in a yellow spool, not white. I am fairly certain we used white tape in the past or none at all.
Water pressure fluctuations.. we have been at our home base the past month on well water with a pretty good (and well maintained) pump and filtering system. The Precision Temp tech spoke of that in our last conversations but said our pressure was good.
Next steps? Pressure test? Regulator adjustment ? Is that a pay-the-expert thing or can we do it?
How long should a propane 2-stage regulator last? I am getting about a year out of them. We have been full-time in our 5th wheel for almost 2 years and this is the third regulator, 5th since we got the RV in 2007.
The reason I know it needs replaced is we have a Precision Temp on-demand hot water heater that fluctuates if the propane pressure is not just so. Also the stove does not light on the first two tries.
Thanks in advance.
This is what I like about this site... education in all forms! Engine and English. Please excuse my spelling ... viola it is. (No, not being sarcastic). I am guessing, even though it is a Mercedes, it needs all 24 volts to start and gets picky when it drops too low.
Our first indication there was a battery problem was it did not sound exactly right on start up. We thought that was because we were in the polar arctic north of Ohio in fall and the temps were down into the 30s. Then we noticed the voltage started dropping slightly just before start up. We sit there and wait while the gauges flip/flop, might as well read the info the truck is giving us. Yes, it does sound different when starting in the cold, particularly if we forgot to plug it in the night before. But the voltage dropping - we knew it was getting to be time. Oh.. the other thing was the power port on the dash stopped working. No wire issues, no fuse issues, no reason. Installed new batteries, it is fine now.
Checking the cables is a really good idea... looking good on the outside does not necessarily mean much.
Thanks for the advice... particularly the Escapees Forum.. Believe it or not we found the solution - new batteries. Replaced the 2 year, 11 mo, 2 week old batteries with brand spanking new ones and waaaalaaaa started right up, sounded like a new truck. No error codes. It is almost oil change time so I will have it checked at Freightliner.
Thanks again, I appreciate the advice.
2007 Freightliner M2 Business class, Allison Transmission, MBE9000 engine... won't start. Error codes: ICU140, ECU128, Ab5136.
Found blown fuse for bulk head module and replaced it. Turn key, dashboard lights up, fuel gauges flip/flop, radio lights up but does not work, truck won't start. 2 batteries about 2 1/2 years old.
Thanks for any advice that prevents me from calling for a tow truck.