The Rexhall Vision 25 is really short for a Class A as it's length is really is around 25'-26' bumper to bumper. It's a wide body too.
With a fully loaded racecar, trailer and supplies (incl up to 30 gallons of fuel); 3/4 fuel and full water in the RV; food and other supplies the combination came in at under 18,000 pounds(exact specs are in the RV and I'm 20 miles from there).
For its time the Vision was built rather uniquely. It features 1x2 steel 'studs' built into its foam laminate structure. A similar foam laminate roof is then welded to steel wall studs. Very strong and very light. A fair amount of care was taken in its construction to be as light as possible within its price range.
But the reason racers love this thing is that the RV is about the same length as an F-250 4 door with an extended camper in the bed. One racer I know uses a Super Truss with that combo and tows a 20' trailer!
They don't usually let RVs park with the campers right next to the trailer, but since I'm so short I can park the RV in one spot, the trailer and car in the next spot and not use up more than my allocated space.
Just because it appears racetracks have "all the room in the world" doesn't mean they have parking for 300 racers with all their gear.
As a guy who is a 'fabricator' who is currently building another racecar I do agree that the current 5k receiver is not up to snuff. It features a square tube with 6"x6" plates (roughly) welded to the frame. I'd prefer 4 point loading like a Class V hitch in order to spread the WD load along a longer section of frame. Yet another project ...
I too own a 2000 Rexhall Vision 25' F53/V-10.
The frame is actually shortened in the middle as the factory frame is too long for this length body. I don't recall the rear having frame extensions. The rig came with air helpers which I run at 45 psi all the time.
I do recall that Rexhall really messed up the driveshaft angles and phasing due to the frame shortening, but that's fixed now!
I tow a 20' Haulmark car trailer at near 6500# full up. It has 4 wheel electric brakes, behind a Prodigy brake controller.
The max gross combined weight is well under factory specs. Although the hitch is rated at 5000/500, most hitch manufactures will uprate
that if used with a WD hitch. I opted for a Pro Series square tube trunnion style WD hitch with built in friction pads.
When I tried the combination without a WD, it was white knuckle driving. With the WD hitch and its anti-sway capabilities it's pretty good, but you have realize you are still driving something with almost 50 feet of flat panel to a side wind.
Still, the combination is stable, the RV rides flat, and with the V-10 I can still climb mountain passes as well as some 36' class As since we weigh about the same.
It brakes as well as the 18 wheeler who did a panic stop in front of me last month.
I run at 60 mph on the flats and only when cresting the many, many mountain passes in Washington state am I down in third gear. I might have hit 2nd gear cresting Snoqualmie ...
Coming down most passes is not an issue.
I do note that the trailer is really close to the rear walls of the trailer when turning and that you should consider a trailer with an extended front tongue if buying new.
I've run this combination for almost 5 years.
There is no accelerated brake wear, the engine still runs strong, and the trannie still shifts well.
I do change engine and transmission fluids before each race season as well as keeping religious track of tire pressures on everything and trailer wheel bearings/brakes.
I carry two spare trailer tires and one fully inflated RV spare as well to avoid calling Good Sam.