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RE: Cool Tech harness
I was able to use the instructions sent by Thunder Mountain and all went well, thanks for your help.
Note that before reaching out on RV net I did send an e-mail to Cool Tech and got an e-mail back with some general guidelines, nothing else.
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BradF
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11/03/12 11:24am |
Tech Issues
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Cool Tech harness
I installed a Cool Tech harness on my 2008 Wrangler a few years ago. I have now installed a hitch and need to wire in the tow light harness into the Cool Tech harness. Unfortunately I no longer have the Cool Tech instructions showing the proper procedure to do that. The one I have uses manufacture plugs so I don't think it's too hard, just wanted to know if anyone has the diagram for doing so.
Any help is much appreciated.
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BradF
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11/03/12 06:11am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Atwood Water Heater overheating
Thanks for all the good ideas and suggestions. After much testing of the circuits, T Stats and the basic installation, I think a couple of things were going on;
1- I think the T Stats were not tight enough against the tank. Cleaning the tank and reinstalling seems to have corrected that.
2- The problem of the PRV leaking seems to be attributed to the lack of a proper air pocket. I believe that occurred when the unit got very hot from the initial T STAT install and the subsequent overflow through the PRV. My solution was to completely drain the tank from the outside plug and refill to proper levels.
I have done numerous tests and let it sit overnight. I am now getting a consistent 143F at the tap and the heater is firing and turning off as it should. All seems to be back to normal.
Again, much appreciate all the good suggestions and information.
Best Regards,
Brad
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BradF
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10/01/12 02:57pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Atwood Water Heater overheating
To be sure I had a proper air pocket I completely drained the tank with the drain plug, I then refilled the WH and fired it up. As normal it started right up and ran for awhile. While it was running I was messing with the electrode wire coming from the control box and at that same time the WH shut off. I believe this is coincidence.
I drew some water from the closest tap and used a very accurate thermometer and metal cup- water tested at 155F. I drew and tested several large cup fulls and then the WH started itself up, running for awhile and then shutting itself down. I again tested several times and found the water to be consistently at 150F. I think the problem was the air cushion, but am going to let everything cool and recheck from scratch. Thanks very much for your help!
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BradF
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09/30/12 08:25pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Atwood Water Heater overheating
Removed the ECO and T STAT and tested them on my stove. Found both to be opening (no continuity) when hot. Cleaned the tank and put them back in place, assuring that they are tight against the tank. Same result...I switched on the WH and it fired right up, and heated the water to be so hot the PRV started to leak. The water is super hot. Note that when I tested them I could hear an audible click when they opened, so pretty sure they are not the problem. Any suggestions are much appreciated.
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BradF
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09/30/12 10:58am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Atwood Water Heater overheating
I did not clean the tank when I replaced them but it looks pretty clean in there. This model has tabs you bend open and closed to hold them in place and they are sitting tight against the aluminum tank. I will pull them out and essentially re-do this and see what occurs. Since the PRV is the last safety device I am at a loss as to why the ECO AND the T STAT are not opening as they should. This problem was not occurring prior to the replacement of these two units so I do think one or the other is the problem, still don't know why both are not working. I did check continuity and voltage with the switch on an found the T STAT to have 12.5V and 0.00V on the ECO while in place. Shouldn't the ECO have 12V going through with the unit on and not yet overheated?
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BradF
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09/29/12 08:15pm |
Tech Issues
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Atwood Water Heater overheating
On a previous post I got good information about testing and correcting a non-firing problem. I tested the switch and various circuits for continuity and voltage and found the thermostat to have no continuity. I replaced the thermostat and ECO with new Atwood parts. When I tested the unit it fired right up and worked well. Unfortunately, now the unit will not shut off and the pressure relief valve releases a large amount of water, eventually shutting the unit down, I believe by putting out the flame. I checked continuity on the ECO and the thermostat and both are fine. The switch works fine as well. As stated the unit continues to fire and heat the water very well. It just will not shut off. First thought is a bad thermostat, but what are the odds of that? Any suggestions are much appreciated.
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BradF
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09/29/12 10:03am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Class A Diesel Realistic Fuel Economy
hpdrver, just wondering about performance. I travel over the continental divide, mostly in Colorado. Having lived in Colorado for many years, I was OK with how well my V10 did pulling my Jeep over 10,000+ foot passes. Dropped down to about 35-40 MPH, but still beat the semis up and over the top!
Thanks to all- very good info.
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BradF
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09/23/12 09:47pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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Class A Diesel Realistic Fuel Economy
I currently have a Ford V10 in my 2008 1998 Class C. It is in good mechanical shape,new plugs, tune up, etc. I tow a jeep wrangler, the best I can get, driving 55-60, is about 7.5 MPG. I am in the market for a Class A and am trying to decide the way to go. Diesel or stay with a Ford chassis. Dealers are telling me to expect 10MPG from the new V10. I am not interested in the Sprinter type MH's, preferring a full size 32-36' chassis with a small block 300H Cummins/ Cat, or the 330-350 HP versions. I have looked at the 32-34' Tiffin's with the 240HP MaxxForce diesels, but am concerned about available power to push a Class A and still tow a 3800# Wrangler. Any advice on real world fuel economy/ power is appreciated.
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BradF
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09/23/12 09:55am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Atwood Water Heater
I put in the new thermostat and ECO today and my water heater fired right up, works like new. Total cost of repairs was under $15.00. The problem was in corroded terminals at the base of the thermostat. Thanks very much to those of you that sent me the suggestions and advice!
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BradF
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09/21/12 02:55pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Atwood Water Heater
I did check for 12 volts coming through the switch and it checked out good. I also checked for voltage going to the board and at times it read good but if you maneuver the wire around it bounces around, down to as low as 1-3 volts. That leads me to believe the terminals on the thermostat are loose at their base. I ordered a thermostat and ECO. Hopefully that will take care of it.
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BradF
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09/17/12 07:07am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Atwood Water Heater
I checked continuity on the switch and thermal fuse, both checked out fine. The thermostat and ECO are another story. The thermostat has nearly no continuity, having to push and maneuver the poles to get a tone from the multimeter. Same thing for the ECO. Both have poles that are corroded and appear to not be making a good connection at their base. Is it safe to assume these are the problem, or should I remove and check the board?
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BradF
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09/14/12 08:53pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Atwood Water Heater
OK, I will test the ECO and Thermostat for continuity and voltage with my Multimeter. To do this, is the best way to simply pull the wire connectors (red and brown)and test each unit across their two leads?
Not sure where the thermal fuse is hidden,seems like it must be near the circuit board. I am also going to test the switch in the kitchen cabinet. I don't know why but that one seems suspect as well.
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BradF
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09/12/12 07:24pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Atwood Water Heater
Mine is a gas only DSI model. Is there a way to test the thermostat/ thermal fuse? Will a continuity test with a multimeter show a faulty part?
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BradF
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09/11/12 03:28pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Atwood Water Heater
Thanks for the suggestions. I will check those out. Do these heaters completely shut down like this when a circuit board or thermostat goes out?
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BradF
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09/11/12 10:42am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Atwood Water Heater
Thanks for the suggestions. I will check those out. Do these heaters completely shut down like this when a circuit board or thermostat goes out?
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BradF
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09/11/12 10:41am |
Tech Issues
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Atwood Water Heater
I have an Atwood model G6AE that is now 14 years old. It has never given me any problems until last week. It is an electronic ignition model with no pilot. The problem is that when started it would fire, run for a short while and then shut off. After doing this, then working fine for awhile, now it will now not fire at all and has no spark, and the non-ignition light will not come on either. I checked to be sure the ground and all electrical connections are tight, and that there are no obstructions. I don't see any cracks on the electrode ceramic or obstructions that I can see. When it was running, I checked the flame and it looked good. Any suggestions would be much appreciated.
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BradF
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09/11/12 06:04am |
Tech Issues
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RE: ReadyBrake cable broke, pictures added
Guys, I just got back from towing my Jeep over 400 miles and the RB unit worked really well. Crossed a couple of mountain passes and the difference in control is impressive. I have not yet put on a turnbuckle, preferring to see how the cable holds up in its original configuration. One question though surrounds tightening the clamps. I tightened mine by hand with a nut driver. I did cinch it down pretty hard, but just by hand. Should I be concerned, and if so, how do you really know when the clamps are too tight?
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BradF
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08/14/12 08:37pm |
Dinghy Towing
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RE: Jeep Wrangler Toad - Clicking Sound
I have the same set up; 2008 JK Wrangler and Cool Tech harness. I had a similar occurrence, but noted that if I disconnect the battery terminal before connecting power to the harness from the motorhome, that it does not occur. Hooking up the power is the last thing I do before leaving. I have always put my key in the first ACC position from off. Been doing that for three years and towed it thousands of miles with no problem. I use a Ready Brake so no need for any power for the braking system. I also use a Cool Tech battery disconnect, although good auto parts stores have them as well. Beats unbolting your negative terminal cable.
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BradF
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08/08/12 07:07am |
Dinghy Towing
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RE: ReadyBrake cable broke, pictures added
Will,
Is it possible the cable was too tight? During that 50 miles did you have to stop quickly, possibly causing the cable to over tighten and snap? I know with mine that the cable looks to be much looser, which may well be due to the type of car you have. My JK Wrangler requires me to leave a bunch of slack in that line (deflection of about 3" up and down, or it will drag the brakes after the first few miles. I took mine to a parking lot this weekend and had an observer tell me how far the actuator was moving when I hit the brakes. It is a fairly long arch. Just a thought.
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BradF
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08/07/12 09:42pm |
Dinghy Towing
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