Update: I've received about (8) different quotes, and decided to go with a 30x50x16 with 14x14 overhead doors on the front and rear of the building (so I can pull the rv in and out - we have plenty of land for this, just need to add more gravel). Looks like I'll go ahead and have the concrete floor done at the same time as well, else I'll be spending about $500 in stone just to scoop it up in a year or two to put the concrete in. Price is under $18k. I'm going to add the electric service myself as well as the cable hookup (already in my existing barn so I'll just pull a circuit over).
We jumped right into a class A a few years ago for our first camper and love it! I do all my own maintenance, it hasn't been too bad so far (ours is a 99, so I've done a fair amount of work to it given its age). Last time I checked at the dealer, labor rates were something like $120/hr if you don't want to work on it. V10 parts are pretty easy and cheap to find.
Probably the biggest thing that's bothered me since we bought it is keeping it clean. It sits on our property next to a pole barn outside, but I'm looking to build a barn just for it this year. I hate washing it several times a year, let alone waxing it. All said and done, I'll have more money in everything used for it (like the barn, and all the camping accessories) than I do for the camper, but I suspected that would happen when we started this.
As somebody once told me, rv's are terrible investments if your looking to get your money back when you go to sell, but you can't put a price on the memories you'll have with one. Get the floor plan that works best for you and buy!
Good luck finding anything decent and ready to go in the $900 range. I sold my 18' 12k lbs equipment trailer last year as it was a little too heavy for me, ended up looking around for awhile until I found another 18' car hauler that needed work for $1k. Figure on replacing the tires on anything in this price range (I just put a set on last weekend for $370). People around here use trailers until they are really beat, and don't want to put any money back into them, let alone maintain them.
If your going for light weight, I would take a serious look at the aluminum car haulers. They are nice, about $4k but weigh around 1200-1300 lbs.
I do engine work on the side, had a 460 once and did a lot of work to it before selling it. I never heard of the belt problem either. Sounds like a head gasket, which shouldn't be too bad to repair. You should be able to tell more once the heads are off and having a good look at the old gaskets. While you are in there, I would have a look at the timing chain as well. Do you have a reputable machine shop to work with? That's key, my machinist is a little slow but he always did good work for me (I send him all kinds of Buick, Chevy, Honda, Kubota, etc stuff). I know of some people that sent their motors to other shops and had nothing but problems.
If all goes well, you will be back on the road for a minimal cost if you do the work yourself, plus you'll know what you've got in terms of the motor.
Looks like I've been convinced to go with 16' ceiling with the overhead doors. Mainly to seal it up, but I would like to have room to work on the roof. I was thinking about $100/month for covered storage if I decide to rent it out for another class a (pretty sure the insurance would go up, that was a question when I renewed my policy for the existing barn).
Thanks for the responses!
Just to clarify, this building would be just for the rv. I do have a 30x45 plus an attached garage for the vehicles. I'm affraid if I make it too big I will collect too many things! My 30x45 has been full a few times, but is clean now. Just looking for something simple.
With the double slide doors, the 14' clearnace shouldn't be a problem. Else it looks like I can go 16' with an overhead door. I have a barn with a 10' single slide....bugs, birds, mice....etc. Good point.
Looking at having a pole barn built for our 35' Class A, tired of messing with the cover and keeping it clean. We have plenty of flat land with no real zoning restrictions. I was initially thinking of a 24w x 48d x 14h with a 12 foot slide door on the front (two 6-footers with the full 14' clearance). I was asked if I would consider storing another class a if the building was bigger, like a 30x48x14. The cost really wouldn't be that much more.
A couple of questions....
#1 - are the sizes I'm looking at ideal for my rig (like the 24 wide)
#2 - what kind of rate should I be looking for if I decide to upsize and store another camper?
#3 - any other suggestions for a building specifically designed for rv storage?
The barn would have a gravel floor for the first few years, with 50A service.
We have Directv at home, on the Genie whole house DVR. Your better off getting an older receiver if you just want to take it for the weekend. I was told its another $6/month for the additional receiver, you can add and remove it whenever you like (when camping season is over)?
We're looking at the Winegard Anser portable antenna for our setup. That and about 100' of RG-6 coax should do the trick and get around any trees.
I use the 100A tester, along with the battery acid tester on maintenance style batteries for my cars + golf cart. They work well for me. If your battery is questionable, you will see something between the (2) tests.
I took a 7" x 22" piece of oak and laser burned our last name and our city on it, hanged it on from a chain on both ends to our front curtain rail. Simple and works well. Takes a few seconds to hang when you close the front curtains. I don't worry about potential thieves, that's what insurance is for.
I bought my wife an 06 AWD new, kept it for (5) years and loved it. Only sold it due to the fact we had (3) kids and it was a tight fit (went to an Odyssey). Never had a problem with it, was really suprised what it was still worth after (5) years! Can't say enough good things about them...like every other Honda we've owned.