RV.Net Open Roads Forum: Search

RV Blog

  |  

RV Sales

  |  

Campgrounds

  |  

RV Parks

  |  

RV Club

  |  

RV Buyers Guide

  |  

Roadside Assistance

  |  

Extended Service Plan

  |  

RV Travel Assistance

  |  

RV Credit Card

  |  

RV Loans

Open Roads Forum Already a member? Login here.   If not, Register Today!  |  Help

Newest  |  Active  |  Popular  |  RVing FAQ Forum Rules  |  Forum Help and Support  |  Contact



Open Roads Forum  >  Search the Forums

 > Your search for posts made by 'CRAMD' found 47 matches.

Sort by:    Search within results:
Page of 3  
Next
  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: Pop Mech Article

Some of the replies to this particular topic are right on the money, but the last few really show how little most people know about driving a big rig. Truck drivers have to pass written and practical examinations before they are allowed on the road with their truck and trailer, but how many people have to do the same with a camper trailer behind them? Having driven a big rig hauling pipe and equipment, I can't remember how many times ignorant drivers of smaller vehicles have done something asinine, and almost caused an accident. I have been cut off by vehicles coming out of a side road, had people pulling back in front of me before it was safe, or passed and then pulled in and slowed down to a slower speed than what I had been driving all along ,have had idiots following right on the back end of my rig at night, with their high beams blinding me from light reflected from those big outside mirrors,have others who couldn't be bothered signalling, or had missing lights, improperly secured loads on utility trailers etc. ad nauseum. I have seen a lot of stupid behavior on the road during my years of driving all kinds of vehicles (well over 800,000 miles all told, and counting), and the majority of it has not been from big rig drivers.
CRAMD 02/07/13 03:28pm General RVing Issues
RE: Rear trailer hitch fifth wheel

I made my own out of 2"x4" steel tubing, with 3 receiver hitches on it.The axle mounts are welded on 2"x4" tubing welded below the 2"x6 or 8" main frame, so I just fabricated the side pieces to extend from where the axle mounting frame left off, and far enough back to clear the end cap on the trailer, then welded them to the main frame, plus the end of the axle mount tubing.. My fiver didn't have one of those flimsy "bumpers" on the back, so I didn't have to cut anything off to fit mine on. I can't post any pics, as I don't want to join any picture hosting site, either.
CRAMD 02/05/13 10:02pm Fifth-Wheels
RE: Leveling a trailer

some people only put wood under one tire but those are the people who don't know better. putting under one tire puts pressure on the other tire and weakens it some and over time leads to failure. it also affects the shackles and leaf springs. SO carry enough wood to do two tires. if you need more than two pieces per tire you need to move the TT to a better place. sometimes that is only a few inches forward or side ways That is not always possible. I have had to use as many as 5 pieces of 2x blocking under one side of my fiver, in order to level it from side to side.When you are parked somewhere with no alternate sites to move to, you cope with the situation as best you can. In my situation, moving it side to side would have put me further down the slope on the one side, or unacceptably far out into the campground road with my slide out on the other (allotted campsite was parallel to camp ground road). Further forward or back would have done exactly nothing to make the situation better.
CRAMD 01/30/13 04:26pm Beginning RVing
RE: Power converters / battery charger

I have the PD9260 in my 2010 Jayco. I bought the rig new in March 2011 and the converter has operated without any issues. My only concern is that I'm not sure it's a pure sine wave. Having said that, I'm under the impression that only pure sine wave inverters will work with a generator but I really don't know becasue I know nothing about inverters. You are talking about two different pieces of equipment. Your converter takes 120 volt AC power, and converts it to 12 volt DC power. The output from the converter is a pulsating DC current, i.e. it goes from 0 volts to 12 volts and back down again. A pure sine wave output won't be found on DC voltage, as it is an alternating current function. Your converter will work perfectly from generator power.
CRAMD 01/30/13 04:12pm Fifth-Wheels
RE: Leaving slides out

If the system operates with hydraulic cylinders, then it would be prudent to operate them periodically to help prevent rust from forming on the polished piston surface, when extended. Unless its sitting around salt water for months. Don't think the rust will start forming on the rods. Shoot the loader on my Tractor may set for months without being moved. Never seen a spot of rust on it yet. And its going on 15 years old. Sounds like the company is doing one of those Cover our Butts deals. That way if someone has issue and they ask... Do you move the slides in every week?? Pete Hydraulic cylinder rods are not prone to rust because they are hard chromed. If they do start to rust, the surface has usually been damaged in some manner.
CRAMD 01/30/13 03:52pm Fifth-Wheels
RE: Leaving slides out

If it's for lubricating the seals then perhaps it should say to extend them once a week. :@ Perhaps to lubricate the extended rod? All oil on a hydraulic cylinder rod gets wiped off when the cylinder is extended, so no lubricating is done. The only time you would usually see oil on a rod, is if the cylinder seals are leaking.
CRAMD 01/30/13 03:46pm Fifth-Wheels
RE: Triple E Topaz worth the extra cost?

I have a 2008 Topaz, and the quality is second to none. I would buy another one in a heartbeat, but it doesn't look like Triple EEE is building trailers anymore.Checking their web site, it appears that 2009 was the last year for a Topaz.
CRAMD 01/25/13 06:32pm Fifth-Wheels
RE: Sad times - January - Time to winterize.... wah wah

How is it that in Canada you are just now winterizing, when I have been winterized since November because of possible overnight freezes? (Although we haven't had any till recently) Consequently, I have made my first reservations for late March at the local lake. Not all of Canada is just now winterizing. Mine has been winterized since about half past September.It won't be ready to go camping until some time in possibly late April, or even first half of May. Camping here with 3 feet of snow on the ground,actual temps around -25 to -30F, and wind chills down to below -45F this last week or so don't make me feel inclined to go outside, never mind go camping.
CRAMD 01/24/13 10:59pm Travel Trailers
RE: Our 30 year old cooler has finally died

My Lil Oscar went out on the job with me for probably close to 30 years, and almost 5 years into retirement,it still gets put to occasional use. It is scuffed and battered, has a big split in the outside skin, and generally looks like a reject, but it still keeps stuff cold with an ice pack or two in it.
CRAMD 01/21/13 08:30pm General RVing Issues
RE: Coprdless Drill For Stab Jacks

Not sure why everyone thinks an 18V drill is needed to run down the stabilizer jacks. You can't torque them much or you will bend the frame. The stabilizer jacks are for stabilizing, not jacking. Once they make contact with the ground/pad they should not be turned more than a couple of rounds. I use an 19.2V Craftsman (WAY overkill), but set the torque setting at 10 (1 - 24). Does not take much torque at all to get them to where they need to be. I use an 18 volt drill because my 12 volt doesn't have enough torque.It struggles to extend the stabilizer, never mind start to lift the trailer. The 18 volt also has absolutely no chance of bending the frame, because the motor would likely burn out long before the frame began to twist (there is a 2x4" rectangular tube sub-frame that the axles are mounted to, under the 2x8" rectangular tube main one). I use a 24 Volt 450 inch pound DeWalt Hammer drill. WAAAAY over kill. Why do I use it? Because i have it. I needed it to raise the roof on the popup. It did a great job, easy up, and down. However. Like has been said. The satabilizers are for stabilizing, NOT leveling. Get it level, and run them down snug. I never try to level side to side with the rear stabilizers; they are exactly that, and not jacks. I have two adjustable length landing gear legs up front for front to back leveling, and a bunch of 2x6 or 2x8 planks to level side to side,plus a small pick and shovel to dig a hole under the wheels on one side, if it comes to that extreme (and I have had to do that, or have also had to use every plank/piece of blocking I had under one side). My final comment in my last post was a statement to the effect that I couldn't twist my trailer frame if I wanted to with the 18 volt drill on the rear stabilizers. Maybe with my 120 volt impact, but not with my 18 volt cordless.
CRAMD 01/21/13 08:20pm General RVing Issues
RE: Coprdless Drill For Stab Jacks

Not sure why everyone thinks an 18V drill is needed to run down the stabilizer jacks. You can't torque them much or you will bend the frame. The stabilizer jacks are for stabilizing, not jacking. Once they make contact with the ground/pad they should not be turned more than a couple of rounds. I use an 19.2V Craftsman (WAY overkill), but set the torque setting at 10 (1 - 24). Does not take much torque at all to get them to where they need to be. I use an 18 volt drill because my 12 volt doesn't have enough torque.It struggles to extend the stabilizer, never mind start to lift the trailer. The 18 volt also has absolutely no chance of bending the frame, because the motor would likely burn out long before the frame began to twist (there is a 2x4" rectangular tube sub-frame that the axles are mounted to, under the 2x8" rectangular tube main one).
CRAMD 01/21/13 06:56pm General RVing Issues
RE: Coprdless Drill For Stab Jacks

I had a 7.2 once...it worked what the TT was brand new....once some rust set in...NO WAY...get an 18v and be done with it Rust is just one issue to think about. The threaded screw portion of the stabilizer jack should be kept clean,I.E. no dust/mud/grease (use dry lube silicon spray). Also, where the screw goes through the stabilizer frame should be dry lubed, as well as kept clean. This will make it easier to extend, but also helps when retracting. If the thrust washer is squealing as the rod is turned, it is not only annoying, but is causing the drill to work a lot harder, which will eventually cause the drill motor to fail. I clean my stabilizers every spring with brake cleaner, and lube liberally, with the drill running the jacks up and down in order to adequately cover all surfaces, including the pivot points on the frame itself.
CRAMD 01/21/13 04:28pm General RVing Issues
RE: kodiak 4500 Allison with 6-speed?

Forgot there is no signature:o 2006 LBZ Duramax/Allison CCSB. Trailer is a Triple E Topaz fiver,roughly 13' tall and 30' long; don't know actual "ready to go" weight.
CRAMD 01/21/13 04:10pm Fifth-Wheels
RE: kodiak 4500 Allison with 6-speed?

I look at things like this every once in a while, but then decide that I can buy an awful lot of fuel for what I am going to spend to increase mpg a mile or 2. I was just figureing that if you are getting 14 mpg and this would increase mpg by 2, to 16, then, assuming a cost of about 2k+(possibly more if you have to pay labor to install) then your break even point would be around 70,000 miles at todays fuel prices. This is just some quick figureing. If someone thinks I'm wrong, just post the corrected figures and don't blast me too bad-I'll just graciously admit my mistake. Gary Also, if most of your miles are towing (like me), you probably would seldom be in 6th gear, as it is a 2nd OD. Not necessarily true.I am in 6th gear the majority of the time I am pulling,with the exception of excessively windy days, or steep uphill climbs. I always tow with the tow/haul mode activated, and usually just let the tranny do its thing (I shift manually once in awhile, if circumstances make it desirable). See signature for tow vehicle and fiver.
CRAMD 01/21/13 04:06pm Fifth-Wheels
RE: What about adding Old School Fender Skirts ?

I didn't like the look of fender skirts (or Continental kits either FWIW)on cars in the 50's and early 60's, and I still think they are ugly. Wouldn't dream of doing something like that to anything of mine.
CRAMD 01/20/13 10:31am Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
RE: yellowstone

We did the Beartooth from Red Lodge to Yellowstone in 1978; I remember seeing a sign with some suggested maximum length on it, but after 34 years, I don't remember what that length was. The road had some very tight hairpin bends, and speeds going up were on the slow side.Speed coming down would be another matter entirely. About half way up the pass, we saw some nut on a skate board coming down from the summit, and when we got to Cooke City (beautiful town site), we were told that the guy on the board had come down that side the day before we saw him.
CRAMD 11/17/12 07:46pm Fifth-Wheels
RE: Water In Holding Tanks For Winter?

Dump them in any sewer clean out if you don't have any other option but leaving a few gallons in each tank should not harm them anyway. the BLACK tank should NEVER be left completely empty anywayand (for what it's worth) you can dump the gray water right on your own lawn if you want to. It's really just a "non issue" either way. This is terrible advice for anyone owning a trailer where the temps get cold enough that water freezes solid.My holding tanks are completely emptied each winter, and I have never had any problem with the black tank as a result of doing so. A few gallons of water in the black or gray tanks will fill the drain pipes, and will freeze solid eventually, with predictable results (see picture of broken pipe in one of the previous posts. If you must leave water in your holding tanks, at least mix in some kind of antifreeze that is meant to be mixed with water, and hope you get the right freeze protection level suitable to your locale.
CRAMD 11/09/12 09:10pm General RVing Issues
RE: Handy Hints, Gadgets, Products & Gizmos

For fire starters, a paper muffin cup about half full of sawdust covered with melted paraffin to just below the top of the cup works quite well.Just have to light one edge of the muffin cup to get things going.
CRAMD 11/09/12 08:53pm General RVing Issues
RE: water restrictor

which location are you referring to… the restrictor used with the water hose.. the one in the shower head or the regulator which is built into the water inlet fitting on the side of your r.v.? the shower and the hose restrictors may be removed with no adverse effects. other than more water consumption… the inlet fitting regulator, prevents over pressurizing the r.v. water system. if you have low or hi pressure (tested at a water faucet or fitting within the r.v. system). the complete water inlet fitting should be replaced. as it is part of the design of the water system of your r.v. I have never heard of a trailer coming with a built in water pressure regulator,on the inlet fitting, or anywhere else. The only thing I know that is built in to the inlet fitting is a check valve, and all it does is prevent back flow.
CRAMD 11/09/12 08:18pm Fifth-Wheels
RE: What's the most unexpected thing seen around the campfire ?

Three memorable visitations: 1.When our kids were young,we were staying in Great Falls, Montana,in a campground with a resident peacock,when a young bull moose came wandering through. 2.Picacho Peak, Arizona, September 1978, wild burros would come in every evening to mooch handouts. 3.In Meadow Lake Provincial Park in Saskatchewan, we were right on the edge of the lake the campground is situated on, and had a mink perch on the pile of firewood for a few minutes one night.
CRAMD 10/27/12 03:17pm RV Lifestyle
Sort by:    Search within results:
Page of 3  
Next


New posts No new posts
Closed, new posts Closed, no new posts
Moved, new posts Moved, no new posts

Adjust text size:

© 2013 RV.Net | Terms & Conditions | PRIVACY POLICY | YOUR PRIVACY RIGHTS