I just checked my window sticker and my truck was ordered with the 3.55 rear end ratio. It is also 4wd.
CT51 - It looks like we have about the same truck. Do you know what the empty weight is of your truck?.....just curious.
I haven't weighed it, but the door sticker combined occupant/cargo weight is 1,592lbs. It is a two wheel drive, crew cab, Big Horn. Also has Premium Group. The cargo capacity is higher than I would have expected. Working backwards from a 6,800 GVWR, would give 5,208lbs. I had a quad cab with the Hemi, and it was right at 5,400lbs, so I guess the V6 is at least 200lbs lighter than the Hemi.
For all of you who have never driven the V6 with the 8sp, it is the smoothest shifting, quietest, highest gas mileage truck I have ever owned. The first time I floored it to pass on a two lane road, I was very surprised at how fast it accelerated. Not quite like the Hemi, but a lot faster than you'd expect for such a small engine.
I think the tow rating is 7,550lbs with 3.55 rear end, and 4,600 with 3.21 (this is for crew cab 2WD). I have a 2015 with the 3.6 and 3.55. My trailer ready to travel is 5,400lbs, and it pulls it fine. I tow in 6th gear, which is 2,500 RPM's at 65MPH. It will shift to 5th on anything more than a small hill, which is 3,000 RPM's. Since these trucks shift so smooth, and are so quiet, no one would notice but me. I think you would be fine with the rated load (4,800 lbs).
Very nice. Ram had my rear tires at 80 psi also. Nice thing about the 3500's is theres no TPMS warning lights like the 2500, just has a monitoring screen. Drop the 2500 a few lbs, and the dash lights up. I know some are going to say they want to know when a tire is going down, and I agree, but keeping the pressure at 80 when running empty is nuts.
45-50 seems like plenty of pressure empty. Is there a way to disable the TPMS on the 2500? Aside from electric tape I mean.
My 2011 Ram 2500 had a button on the dash that would let you drop the tire pressure without activating the TPMS light. Has that been deleted on the new 2500's?
I have a one month old Coachmen Freedom Express 246RKS. I've had quite a few RV's, and when I get a new one, the first week or two is spent making improvements like new TV bracket, Blue Ray player,porcelain toilet, better mattress etc. When all that was done, I set the load distributing hitch up and took the 30 mile ride to get the whole rig weighed. When I got there, (this being the first time I pulled it, as the dealer is two miles from my house, and I brought it home with a standard ball and shank), I felt all the hubs, and one was very hot. When I got home, I took that wheel and drum off to see what was going on. I had already checked the brake adjustment when I pulled the wheels to have them balanced, so I knew that wasn't the problem. The hub was completely full of grease, and it had gone thru the seal and into the brake assembly. I took it all apart, cleaned everything, repacked the bearing with red high temp grease using a power packer, and put it all back together. Took it for a long ride, and hub is now cool to the touch-no heat whatsoever.
So, it does appear that Lippert is now filling the hubs using the Super Lube spindle. The grease they use is watery. Today, I did the other three wheels, and found one more that the seal had failed. Prior to this, I didn't have a strong feeling about the Super Lube, but now I will never use it again. When whoever filled the hubs did so, I imagine they just pumped them till it came out and filled the grease cup, and no doubt didn't bother to have the wheel rotating while they pumped. I believe the system can work if you pump very slowly while someone spins the wheel, but I don't see the benefit over just having properly packed bearings. In my case, since I wanted to get rid of the cheap black grease, I needed to take everything apart, clean it all, and put it back together. I'm surprised you don't see more bearing failures, knowing this is the way they send them from the factory.
I have a new Coachmen Freedom Express 246RKS. While the toilet placement was fine, I wanted to upgrade from the cheap plastic Dometic toilet to a porcelin bowl from Thetford (had one in a motorhome and it is far superior). Don't know what toilet you have, but maybe another toilet would handle your problem. They all have the same mounting configuration. If that didn't work, the small magnets (circular, around quarter sized), mounted permanently to the seat and wall is a good idea. Another idea would be to mount one of the spring loaded catches that hold exterior compartment doors open. Then there would be nothing on the toilet lid to fall off or look bad.
Update. Went to the dealer today and offered to buy a new circuit board to see if I could get one that was quieter. My very good dealer parts manager lent me a new circuit board. Went home, plugged it up, and it was a little quieter, but it would not start the gas heater! I got the whine on gas or electric (electric was working-I can tell cause the AC lamp dims when the electric element comes on). So, I'm going to give it back tomorrow. Obviously I feel bad, because it will look like I somehow damaged a brand new circuit board, but it's a pretty simple install, and it didn't damage my board to put it back in. Anyway, while fooling around with it, it became obvious that when the board is not screwed down, it is much quieter, enough so that you cannot hear it inside. It appears to be transmitting the high frequency whine through the metal enclosure. I tried putting rubber washers between the board and the metal surface, but it did not help. If you just unscrew the board, and pull it out a few inches, and angle it away from the edge, it gets much quieter. The noise is coming from the 1" by 1/2" component that is immediately to the right of the round terminal that the heat sensor plugs into. (Bottom left corner of board). I tried other methods of insulation, but none were successful. I have some ideas to try, and will report if successful. I've had 15 RV's, and all but one had a gas/electric water heater. I've never heard this sound before. I did notice the board said made in China. Don't know how long this has been the case. I suspect it has a lot to do with the location of the water heater. If it's under a cabinet that's open to the interior, you're more likely to hear it.
Seeing as you can hear it from circuit board area and it happens when you turn on gas or electric
It has to do with the DC System (Atwood uses DC to control gas & electric that is why there is a circuit board).
I suspect you have AC Ripple occurring......ac ripple is the result of converter changing AC to DC.
Measure ac voltage on either the White wire (electric) or Orange wire (gas) at connector on circuit board when you turn it on. DC voltage is on those wires...but AC Ripple can be measured using voltmeter set to AC Voltage.
Should be .5-.8 AC Voltage measured....higher than that converter is not filtering.
Thanks again for any input, but it does it whether or not the converter is on. Either flipping the converter breaker off, or unplugging the RV altogether, still whines. So, definitely a DC issue. What is in the circuit board that can make a whining noise?
Myredracer, I appreciate the effort to find the problem, but it doesn't have anything to do with water flow or water temperature. I can just walk out to the trailer, flip either the gas or electric switch on the inside panel, and the whine starts immediately. Water in tank is ambient temperature. Flip switch back off, whine goes off.
No delay, no variation. It's like either switch just activates a low level alarm. Function of water heater is normal.
The noise is definitely electronic. It starts the instant you flip either hot water switch, gas or electric. Flow of water or temperature of water makes no difference. If you open the exterior cover, and put your ear as close as possible, it sounds like its coming from the circuit board. If you pull one of the brown wires off the thermostat, it stops. That made me think it was the thermostat, and since I had an adjustable thermostat I was going to use on another RV, I plugged the two thermostat wires into the adjustable one while holding it-whining returned. The sound has nothing to do with water movement or gas movement.
Mine did it when new but eventually quit. It doesn't hurt anything when it whines so I never worried about it.
How long did it take to quit? Did you ever determine where the noise was coming from?
Have a new Coachmen Freedom Express with an Atwood Gas/Electric water heater. I have had this water heater on several other RV's, but this one makes a high pitched whine. Makes this noise on gas or electric. The noise seems to be coming from the circuit board (Directly to the right of the thermostat, and above the burner tube).
The noise is loud enough to be heard inside the RV, and is somewhat annoying. Any ideas?
I have a 2005 Suburban with the 5.3 and 3.42 rear end. Being a two wheel drive, it weighs very close to your vehicle. I have pulled a 5,200lb 28' TT many miles, but mostly in the south, and not in the mountains. I would not be comfortable with any more weight. With the 4sp auto, I run in 3rd gear. 60 MPH is 2,300 RPM. On anything more than a gradual hill, it will shift to 2nd, which is 3,600 RPM. Certainly doesn't hurt anything, but is kind of annoying. You can minimize this greatly by not using cruise control, and letting the rig speed up some downhill, and lose speed uphill. My rig is pretty stable (Reese SC hitch, 800lbs bars), but I have a 130" wheelbase. A short wheelbase Yukon will not be as stable. I also pull a 5,300lb boat, which is easier. In either case, I would not want any more weight. I would consider 6,200 lbs out of the question (unless I had a Hensley or Pro Pride hitch, and changed the rear end to a 4.10).
By the way, on my Suburban, the max tow rating is 7,400lbs. It is 8,400 with the 4.10 rear end.
Just ordered a new TT. In the past 13 years, I've had two gas class A's, two DP's, one fifth wheel, one class B, four class C's, and four TT's (not counting the one on order). All were purchased new, most special ordered. While obviously we have a problem with committment regarding RV's, they just don't all do everything well. Motorized RV's don't provide transportation at your destination, and towables are either too big when you're towing, or too small when you get there. Or you just see something that you think you'd like. One thing that keeps bringing me back to TT's is that they are so inexpensive compared to motorhome's, and they don't force you to put up with the wind noise, squeaks, rattles, thumps etc in a motorized RV. I'm really excited about this next TT. It will be easy to tow, has everything important (storage, separate bedroom, large bath and shower enclosure, 18' electric awning, light weight etc). While history would say otherwise, I always feel like the next RV will be the one. Like they say about second marriages: "The triumph of hope over experience". Regarding wives, I used to have this problem with boats. I began naming them "Patient Lady". Finally, I don't dream about stuff I can't afford. You probably feel you can afford the Air Stream without effecting your finances or your family's welfare. If that's not the case, then you shouldn't buy it. If it is, well then you could have worse habits.
Thanks for all the replies. I make the post because I was interested in the Travato. Have been looking to downsize from a large class C.
After looking at the Travato again today, and the Trend, I'm definitely leaning towards the Trend. If it was just me, I'd go with the Travato, but there's no way my wife would go with it. Going to look at some other Trend's tomorrow. Probably going to be the L, but
I have not seen a B yet, and that is what I'm going to look at. Have driven the Trend, and was very impressed with how quiet it was, and easy to drive. It is quieter at 70 mph that my C is at 55.
Looks like the OP has moved on, but for those of us that like C's, I remembered two more of the reasons I prefer them.
One, the windshield. RV's spend a lot of time on the highway, and cracked windshields will happen. With an A, you're dependent on a dealer who usually sublets the repair to a windshield guy. The result is often messy or in some way inferior to what you had. With a C, you just call Safelite, and they come to your driveway and you will not be able to tell the repair from new.
Two, 16 inch wheels and tires. Any good tire shop can mount and balance, and you can carry a spare and change it yourself. This is a great peace of mind while on the road.
And a bonus point: Any large class C will come with air bags, so you can adjust for weight and balance perfectly left to right so no leaning like many class A's.
I really do like A's for the obvious reasons, but you just give up too much convenience that comes with the C for me.
I've had every type RV, and my 32' class C is definitely my favorite. The point about being lower to the ground is pretty important to me. My total height is 10'10". Most new class A's are around 12'6" to 12'10".
When you're driving around neighborhood streets, older state parks, strange towns etc, that 2 feet is the difference between ripping your roof off and clearing by a foot. Also, some class C's like mine don't even require a retracting step. The door is low enough that you just step into the RV. This is surprisingly useful and convenient when you are getting in and out packing/unpacking, and when getting the RV into position while setting up. Same goes for the two front doors at ground level. You can just hop in and back out while getting in exactly the spot you want, leveling etc. Also power windows on both front doors-great when cruising thru campground looking for best spot. Some floorplans, like mine, have a north south 80" queen bed, which allow an incredible amount of storage accessible thru three rear openings. Finally, no sun in the eyes! I've had several class A's, and you're always fiddling with the visors trying to block the sun or to stop them from rattling. With the C, the overhead is like a giant baseball cap blocking the sun.