I had an Excel a few years back. Very well made, and very comfortable. The sway was an issue. If you're happy going under 60MPH, then no problem. If you like to cruise at 70 or more, which is one reason for owning a B, then you probably would not like it. It's not dangerous, just tiring to constantly be correcting the steering.
Thanks for the comments so far. I'm in total agreement with not liking hotels, but after 39 years of marriage, and 20 years of RVing with me being the most enthused, that's just what it is. Also, this is for some particular trips that involve a great deal of driving, so while we may sleep in it some, the driving ease is the priority for me. Still leaning towards the Travato 59K for the openness, and the twin beds. Looked at the Zion, but didn't like the bathroom in the front, or the bath arrangement. Might look at it again though. Plan to order something in the next 30 days, have all winter to get it right, and then head out late spring.
I'm leaning towards the Travato. The simple holding tank arrangement of the 59K appeals to me. Black tank is directly under the toilet, and gravity drains like most RV's. Also, sleeping arrangement is much more convenient (for me and the dog). I think the fridge is a compressor type, meaning it only works on 120 or 12 volt. That is why all 59K's you see have the solar panel. Also, I'm not familiar with the new heat and hot water system, but it sounds like a positive. How does yours drive? Wind noise, rattles etc? I've had class A's and class C's, and the rattles, squeaks, creaks, etc are a problem for me. Hoping a simple van with no slides or added body structure will not generate so many offensive noises.
Planning to buy either a Travato 59K, or a Roadtrek 170 Versatile. I will use it with my wife to do some traveling out west to see all the stuff, national parks etc, that we have never seen. (we are retired). I have owned several RV's, but my wife has never been as enthusiastic as me. Plan is to stay in hotels, and have the van just for the toilet, fridge, and a place to take a quick nap while driving. I will still use the RV by myself, to go camping with the dog from time to time. I do that in state parks near our home in the Atlanta area.
The bath arrangement in the Travato is obviously more roomy, and doesn't require anything special to use. Also twin beds are convenient and comfy. Roadtrek is two feet shorter, and has somewhere to sit for a passenger other than the front passenger seat. Also, the Roadtrek looks more like a conversion van than an
RV. If anyone owns either one, what have you liked best about it, and what are the shortcomings?
Thanks in advance for sharing your experiences with these RVs
A tailwind can exacerbate sway, especially when going downhill and coasting. If you stay under 50 MPH, you're probably fine, just avoid the temptation to speed up. When you hear people complaining about sway problems with their rigs, it's never below 50 MPH, always above.
I've had several Thor products, and several Forrest River products. In my opinion, they are about the same. Every RV I have ever owned had some really dumb mistakes in it's manufacture. Most I easily fixed, but I'm handy. If you aren't comfortable caulking, reinforcing, packing bearing etc, then RV ownership can be very stressful. I've had 13 RV's in my lifetime, and have never had one back in a dealership for repairs. It's my experience the dealer will not fix a problem as well as I can, and will cause some other damage while attempting repairs.
I live in a large city, and there are several respected mobile RV repair individuals. If I were not comfortable making repairs, I would establish a relationship with one of these folks. Sealing roofs must be checked and done properly yearly if your RV is parked outdoors. This could be done by one of these guys in one day, vs leaving it at a dealer for weeks and then having the trainee give it a shot. Same for wheel bearings, unsupported shower floors, plumbing leaks etc.
You didn't mention any other problems with your Thor other than the roof leak, which could happen to any trailer. I would advise buying the trailer you like, and finding someone you trust to check the roof when you take delivery, and yearly thereafter.
I have a 2015 Freedom Express 246RK. Pros are: tows extremely well.
Axles are wide spaced, and set back farther than most. Gives good tonque weight and very little effected by crosswinds. Best shower enclosure available in a small trailer. 80" queen bed, with no wall at foot. Small slide doesn't affect campsite selection, and doesn't include wheel openings. Drawer for utensils, plenty of storage with the cabinets on both sides of the couch. No carpet, alloy wheels, spare tire up front under A frame, Non-cranking TV antenna, looks great. I replaced stock toilet with ceramic upgrade, and replaced swiveling TV bracket with much sturdier tilting only bracket, with additional support in cabinet, and added Blu Ray player in cabinet. Does have wheel well box under dinette, but there's just two of us so it doesn't come into play. Quality has been excellent. Huge electric awning with LED lights and a whole lot more. Easily the best RV I have had (it is the 13th RV!)
I just checked my window sticker and my truck was ordered with the 3.55 rear end ratio. It is also 4wd.
CT51 - It looks like we have about the same truck. Do you know what the empty weight is of your truck?.....just curious.
I haven't weighed it, but the door sticker combined occupant/cargo weight is 1,592lbs. It is a two wheel drive, crew cab, Big Horn. Also has Premium Group. The cargo capacity is higher than I would have expected. Working backwards from a 6,800 GVWR, would give 5,208lbs. I had a quad cab with the Hemi, and it was right at 5,400lbs, so I guess the V6 is at least 200lbs lighter than the Hemi.
For all of you who have never driven the V6 with the 8sp, it is the smoothest shifting, quietest, highest gas mileage truck I have ever owned. The first time I floored it to pass on a two lane road, I was very surprised at how fast it accelerated. Not quite like the Hemi, but a lot faster than you'd expect for such a small engine.
I think the tow rating is 7,550lbs with 3.55 rear end, and 4,600 with 3.21 (this is for crew cab 2WD). I have a 2015 with the 3.6 and 3.55. My trailer ready to travel is 5,400lbs, and it pulls it fine. I tow in 6th gear, which is 2,500 RPM's at 65MPH. It will shift to 5th on anything more than a small hill, which is 3,000 RPM's. Since these trucks shift so smooth, and are so quiet, no one would notice but me. I think you would be fine with the rated load (4,800 lbs).
Very nice. Ram had my rear tires at 80 psi also. Nice thing about the 3500's is theres no TPMS warning lights like the 2500, just has a monitoring screen. Drop the 2500 a few lbs, and the dash lights up. I know some are going to say they want to know when a tire is going down, and I agree, but keeping the pressure at 80 when running empty is nuts.
45-50 seems like plenty of pressure empty. Is there a way to disable the TPMS on the 2500? Aside from electric tape I mean.
My 2011 Ram 2500 had a button on the dash that would let you drop the tire pressure without activating the TPMS light. Has that been deleted on the new 2500's?
I have a one month old Coachmen Freedom Express 246RKS. I've had quite a few RV's, and when I get a new one, the first week or two is spent making improvements like new TV bracket, Blue Ray player,porcelain toilet, better mattress etc. When all that was done, I set the load distributing hitch up and took the 30 mile ride to get the whole rig weighed. When I got there, (this being the first time I pulled it, as the dealer is two miles from my house, and I brought it home with a standard ball and shank), I felt all the hubs, and one was very hot. When I got home, I took that wheel and drum off to see what was going on. I had already checked the brake adjustment when I pulled the wheels to have them balanced, so I knew that wasn't the problem. The hub was completely full of grease, and it had gone thru the seal and into the brake assembly. I took it all apart, cleaned everything, repacked the bearing with red high temp grease using a power packer, and put it all back together. Took it for a long ride, and hub is now cool to the touch-no heat whatsoever.
So, it does appear that Lippert is now filling the hubs using the Super Lube spindle. The grease they use is watery. Today, I did the other three wheels, and found one more that the seal had failed. Prior to this, I didn't have a strong feeling about the Super Lube, but now I will never use it again. When whoever filled the hubs did so, I imagine they just pumped them till it came out and filled the grease cup, and no doubt didn't bother to have the wheel rotating while they pumped. I believe the system can work if you pump very slowly while someone spins the wheel, but I don't see the benefit over just having properly packed bearings. In my case, since I wanted to get rid of the cheap black grease, I needed to take everything apart, clean it all, and put it back together. I'm surprised you don't see more bearing failures, knowing this is the way they send them from the factory.