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 > Your search for posts made by 'CT51' found 30 matches.

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  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: How big a trailer can I easily tow

I have a 2005 Suburban with the 5.3 and 3.42 rear end. Being a two wheel drive, it weighs very close to your vehicle. I have pulled a 5,200lb 28' TT many miles, but mostly in the south, and not in the mountains. I would not be comfortable with any more weight. With the 4sp auto, I run in 3rd gear. 60 MPH is 2,300 RPM. On anything more than a gradual hill, it will shift to 2nd, which is 3,600 RPM. Certainly doesn't hurt anything, but is kind of annoying. You can minimize this greatly by not using cruise control, and letting the rig speed up some downhill, and lose speed uphill. My rig is pretty stable (Reese SC hitch, 800lbs bars), but I have a 130" wheelbase. A short wheelbase Yukon will not be as stable. I also pull a 5,300lb boat, which is easier. In either case, I would not want any more weight. I would consider 6,200 lbs out of the question (unless I had a Hensley or Pro Pride hitch, and changed the rear end to a 4.10). By the way, on my Suburban, the max tow rating is 7,400lbs. It is 8,400 with the 4.10 rear end. CT51
CT51 10/27/14 09:57pm Travel Trailers
RE: Airstream>>

Just ordered a new TT. In the past 13 years, I've had two gas class A's, two DP's, one fifth wheel, one class B, four class C's, and four TT's (not counting the one on order). All were purchased new, most special ordered. While obviously we have a problem with committment regarding RV's, they just don't all do everything well. Motorized RV's don't provide transportation at your destination, and towables are either too big when you're towing, or too small when you get there. Or you just see something that you think you'd like. One thing that keeps bringing me back to TT's is that they are so inexpensive compared to motorhome's, and they don't force you to put up with the wind noise, squeaks, rattles, thumps etc in a motorized RV. I'm really excited about this next TT. It will be easy to tow, has everything important (storage, separate bedroom, large bath and shower enclosure, 18' electric awning, light weight etc). While history would say otherwise, I always feel like the next RV will be the one. Like they say about second marriages: "The triumph of hope over experience". Regarding wives, I used to have this problem with boats. I began naming them "Patient Lady". Finally, I don't dream about stuff I can't afford. You probably feel you can afford the Air Stream without effecting your finances or your family's welfare. If that's not the case, then you shouldn't buy it. If it is, well then you could have worse habits. CT51
CT51 10/18/14 06:05pm Travel Trailers
RE: Travato refrigerator

Thanks for all the replies. I make the post because I was interested in the Travato. Have been looking to downsize from a large class C. After looking at the Travato again today, and the Trend, I'm definitely leaning towards the Trend. If it was just me, I'd go with the Travato, but there's no way my wife would go with it. Going to look at some other Trend's tomorrow. Probably going to be the L, but I have not seen a B yet, and that is what I'm going to look at. Have driven the Trend, and was very impressed with how quiet it was, and easy to drive. It is quieter at 70 mph that my C is at 55. CT51
CT51 09/29/14 09:56pm Class B - Camping Van Conversions
Travato refrigerator

Read in one of the posts on the Travato that they were having trouble lighting the refrigerator on propane. Does the fridge not have auto ignition? Is it a two way, or three way fridge? Thanks, CT51
CT51 09/28/14 04:04pm Class B - Camping Van Conversions
RE: why a class c over a class a ?

Looks like the OP has moved on, but for those of us that like C's, I remembered two more of the reasons I prefer them. One, the windshield. RV's spend a lot of time on the highway, and cracked windshields will happen. With an A, you're dependent on a dealer who usually sublets the repair to a windshield guy. The result is often messy or in some way inferior to what you had. With a C, you just call Safelite, and they come to your driveway and you will not be able to tell the repair from new. Two, 16 inch wheels and tires. Any good tire shop can mount and balance, and you can carry a spare and change it yourself. This is a great peace of mind while on the road. And a bonus point: Any large class C will come with air bags, so you can adjust for weight and balance perfectly left to right so no leaning like many class A's. I really do like A's for the obvious reasons, but you just give up too much convenience that comes with the C for me. CT51
CT51 08/24/14 07:22am Class C Motorhomes
RE: why a class c over a class a ?

I've had every type RV, and my 32' class C is definitely my favorite. The point about being lower to the ground is pretty important to me. My total height is 10'10". Most new class A's are around 12'6" to 12'10". When you're driving around neighborhood streets, older state parks, strange towns etc, that 2 feet is the difference between ripping your roof off and clearing by a foot. Also, some class C's like mine don't even require a retracting step. The door is low enough that you just step into the RV. This is surprisingly useful and convenient when you are getting in and out packing/unpacking, and when getting the RV into position while setting up. Same goes for the two front doors at ground level. You can just hop in and back out while getting in exactly the spot you want, leveling etc. Also power windows on both front doors-great when cruising thru campground looking for best spot. Some floorplans, like mine, have a north south 80" queen bed, which allow an incredible amount of storage accessible thru three rear openings. Finally, no sun in the eyes! I've had several class A's, and you're always fiddling with the visors trying to block the sun or to stop them from rattling. With the C, the overhead is like a giant baseball cap blocking the sun. CT51
CT51 08/22/14 10:13am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Where to buy a spare tire for E450?

You can get the wheel from: www.hubcaphaven.com. $149.00 CT51
CT51 04/21/14 10:45am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Spare Tires....again

Hubcap Haven has remanufactured factory wheels for $149.00. www.hubcaphaven.com CT51
CT51 04/11/14 03:53pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: 2013 Leprechaun water leak problems

My 319DSF is dry as well. In my case, locating where the water was entering was not hard. I have taken several other pre-emptive measures to make sure water can not enter. The most recent was to drill two 1/8" holes in the trim where it goes under the overhead cab. This is the trim you would see if you were sitting in the RV and looked thru the windshield and up at the bottom of the overhead cab. In talks with Coachmen, and from experience gathered from reading all the posts, most instances of leaks in Leprechauns come from water entering this trim on the top sides of the cabover, where the awning trim meets this trim. If water gets in, it follows the trim forward, then down the side, and then fills up along the bottom as it has nowhere to go. So, I first verified that I had the trim piece totally sealed, and after several rain and hose checks that it was dry, then drilled the holes so that if water ever does get in some day, it will just drain back out before it can back up into the overhead. So, if it's ever raining like crazy one day while I'm camping, I'll just glance at those holes occasionally, and if water is coming out, I'll know I need to check sealing again. What won't happen though is for water to back up into the overhead. These holes are simply weep holes at the lowest spot, just like window frames. Not all class C's have trim like Leprechauns. While the trim used creates an opportunity for water entry at the top sides, it also creates an opportunity to add the weep holes and let the water back out. Happy to say RV has been 100 percent trouble free in every other way. Just returned from trip to south Georgia to get some warm weather and RV was great. Still ran the fireplace at night for ambiance, just without the heat! CT51
CT51 02/21/14 07:13pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Dealing with the Dealer ??

I am a retired auto dealer. Believe me, you did great on your purchase. I don't have current incentives on your purchase, but I wouldn't be surprised if the dealer lost some money on that sale. Most of you would be surprised how often a dealer loses money (real money-below invoice and all incentives) on the sale of a new vehicle. This doesn't apply to high end luxury vehicles, but Ford trucks are a commodity in the way they are sold. We made a very good living making more money on used cars, parts, and service than we lost on new car sales. It always amazed me how people would go down the street to save $100 on a $30,000 vehicle, and then say nothing when they paid $300 for a 30,000 mile service. (which the dealer would make 220 dollars on) The car sale had a 1% return, the service sale a 70% return. Anyway, congratulations on that fine looking truck. Like others, I can afford a top of the line truck, but sitting in my garage right now is a white Sierra WT with vinyl interior and rubber floor. It has nothing I don't need, and everything I do need. CT51
CT51 02/14/14 06:44am Tow Vehicles
RE: First drive Ram 1500 diesel

In the nine years I have been reading this forum, this thread is the most pathetic I have seen. Why grown men would be threatened by the features and technology of a competing manufacturers product is beyond me. Hasn't it occurred to some of you guys that the reason "your" product is as good as it is is because of the pressure from the competition? Really, it's "OK" for all the brands to be good. Choose the one you like for it's looks, features, technology that works for you etc. One person's best choice isn't necessarily someone else's. What really lit me off was the statement that a Ford has to be better because they sell more. So, a Camry has to be the best mid sized car? Corolla has to be the best small car? Good cars for sure, but definitely not for me. CT51
CT51 01/30/14 06:00pm Tow Vehicles
RE: ford v10 oil change

I use Mobile 1 in every vehicle I have, and while the Motorcraft synthetic blend is obviously a good oil, why not use full synthetic now that Walmart has it in 5 quart containers (5-20 for V10) for very little more? CT51
CT51 01/18/14 09:43pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Orange Electronis's TPMS

Motorhome magazine just tested the TPMS system from Valor TPMS. They were extremely impressed with the system. The sensors mount to the wheel rim, and are said to be accurate to within .3 degrees F, and .4 PSI. System cost for 6 wheels is $625. Site is: www.valorTPMS.com. CT51
CT51 01/18/14 10:26am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Henderson Beach St. Pk.

There is a party spot under the bridge with shallow water and it gets lots of boats anchored and partying. "Crab Isle" Rent a pontoon boat and have the time of your life, no matter your age. We have a condo in Destin and are there a couple times a month. Regarding restaurants, the Seafood is great, but so is the Italian. Try La Famiglia, Meemo's, and Café Italia just over the bridge to Ft. Walton. CT51
CT51 01/10/14 06:35am RV Parks, Campgrounds and Attractions
RE: Tire dilemma

If you've been driving it for three years, with no problems, then I don't think I would worry about buying the Goodyears again. When you go to a scale, your rig is level. When you're driving on most roads in the right lane, the rig is tilted slightly to the right due to the crown in the road. This might be enough to bring that left tire back to it's rated capacity. Additionally, speed is very much a factor. If you drive 65-70, you might have a concern. If you drive 60 or under, that's a lot less heat generated. Finally, your door sticker probably calls for 65 or 70 lbs in the front tires. You should go to the max of 80 if you really have that much weight on the front tires. Your weights are a little suspect, since on my 32' Leprechaun with two street side slides, there is only 4,400 lbs on the front wheels. CT51
CT51 01/04/14 11:49am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Tiger Owners

Post this also on the Class B forum. There is a guy there, "Handbasket", who owns one (ordered it new) and is a frequent poster. CT51
CT51 12/28/13 02:32pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: 2013 Leprechaun water leak problems

I've been logging on several times a day just hoping to see this post. Coach looks great at home where it should be! Almost expected a Christmas bow on it! Glad the collateral damage from the time at the dealer isn't too great. That mold should come off easy, since it is relatively new. A little bleach in whatever you clean it with should prevent recurrence. The pieces inside could be at the dealer in two days if they and Coachmen wanted them to be. Make sure they remember to send the matching screw covers for the bunk trim when they order. I would email every day until you have them in your hand. I would put them on myself, to avoid any further damage from dealership personnel. That's the main reason I do any work I can myself. There's just no way a tech is going to be as careful as I would be. He may have more experience than me, but I'm going to put towels over the counter tops and anywhere I set a tool. I'm not going to scratch things trying to take them off, my shoes are off to avoid damaging baseboards etc. Please keep us updated as the leak testing continues. I and many others commend your patience and perseverance. CT51
CT51 12/15/13 09:18am Class C Motorhomes
RE: 2013 Leprechaun water leak problems

Mine passed it's second test as well. Poured all day Monday, and totally dry. In my case, I know exactly where the water came in (which I repaired), so I know where to check for integrity of the seal. My RV stays in the garage, (where I have a step ladder) so it's easy enough to just inspect it from time to time. Carguy07, I sent GollieCollie pictures of my front trim panel, where I used Velcro to secure it, and also the screw covers. Now, I can just hop up there any time to check it without having to remove any screws. If you want pictures, PM me with your email address. CT51
CT51 12/10/13 12:21pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: 2013 Leprechaun water leak problems

Make sure you do a thorough walk thru with the shop foreman. Be looking for damage where techs have set tools down, dragged hoses, cords etc over the furniture. Look for dings/nicks in the wall coverings where all the work was done around the cap. Also check front bunk cushions closely for any damage. It will be much easier to get anything needed ordered while you are there. Remember to breath deep the next time it rains! It's raining today and tomorrow here in Atlanta, so I have my coach backed out of the garage and sitting in the rain. The first time I checked it, it was next to the house and tilted slightly to the left. Now, just outside the RV garage, it's tilted slightly to the right. I'm less nervous than I was the first time, but still won't be completely comfortable until it has passed several test. Good Luck! CT51
CT51 12/08/13 09:25am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Shock absorbers

The easiest things you have control over are tire pressure and tire brand. All the E450's I have had came with Michelin tires, which is known for a smooth ride and easy to balance. The main thing is tire pressure. You don't need 80 psi in the rears unless you're at the max rear allowable weight. If you have a 32' coach, you might be there. If it's a 23' you probably are 2,000lbs under RAWR, and could get by with quite a bit less psi. As many have said, weigh the coach, and go to Michelin's web site for psi guides that will tell you what pressure to run for your weight. On my 32' coach, just going from 80 to 75 psi is quite noticeable. Having said that, it's still going to ride hard cause it's a crude truck with a lightweight hollow box on the rear filled with every rattily, banging device known to man. CT51
CT51 12/03/13 08:05pm Class C Motorhomes
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