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RE: Toads??
Anything with a manual transmission. My 2010 Ford Fusion has a chip ignition key which means NO STEERING COLUMN LOCK, NO TRANSMISSION LOCK, and therefore no key in the ignition while towing! Woo Hoo.
The towing procedure is:
1. Put car in neutral
2. Put key in your pocket
3. Drive
For me: the aggravation and issues with automatic transmissions and requisite transmission locks are not worth it.
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ClassAGeek
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06/18/13 09:28pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Securing Blue Ox Towbar to Prevent Theft
I have several locks that cannot be cut that way...the shackle is not exposed.
Fear not. Cutting through the various shrouds and casings on these locks takes very little time with a Dremel tool + carbon fiber blade. When that is not convenient, the cable or hasp attached to the lock can usually be cut.
Locking hitch pins are exposed and softer than even modestly priced padlocks. They remain about the easiest locks to compromise in my limited experience. Even a Sawzall with hacksaw blade cuts them in a few seconds. A hacksaw can barely scratch a good padlock.
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ClassAGeek
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06/08/13 08:50pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Securing Blue Ox Towbar to Prevent Theft
Here is how a Dremel tool cuts virtually any lock shackle or hitch pin:
http://statchuk.com/images/CutX0001.jpg
This high security lock took about a minute to cut. The locking hitch pin on my wife's truck took less than 30 seconds.
Don't sweat it. Just realize that locking pins are minor deterrents.
And here's a video I made a couple of years ago about wheel locks. They are even less of a deterrent:
I Have Wheel Locks. I'm Good.
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ClassAGeek
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06/08/13 01:49pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Securing Blue Ox Towbar to Prevent Theft
Yes, use locks. But pay your insurance too.
Here's why:
1. Many (most?!) storage compartments have the same keys. Look for CH751 and then check your neighbor.
2. Even the hardest locks can be cut open with a battery powered Dremel Tool in about a minute. Every bicycle thief knows this one.
3. Wheel locks are even easier. Just hammer on a tight fitting wrench socket and then remove the lock nut in the same time as a regular one.
They are a deterrent - but just a minor one.
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ClassAGeek
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06/07/13 05:37pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Need to replace main TV in rv
I was really digging Ursula Andress until I realized she's 77 . . . .
Also makes me realize how old I am :(
...I'm concerned that the newer tvs might not be robust enough to last the bouncing on the road. Any recommendations on make/model tvs to purchase? Thx
New LCD TV's can be very reliable. They are low power and have no moving parts. I have installed several in RV's. Here is one important tip: Look for brands that anchor the mounting bolts to an internal metal frame.
Some of the lower priced TV's I have tried (LG, Toshiba and Sony) have threaded metal inserts that are bonded to the plastic TV shell. This means the TV rattles and moves when driving. Not good.
To find the right type of frame mount: (in the store) go to the back of the TV and press hard on the 4 mounting screw sockets. If they are connected to a metal frame, there will be absolutely no movement. If connected to plastic, the sockets will move inward - sometimes very slightly.
I have started using mid-priced Samsung LED LCDs. They have metal frames and are very solid. Good picture too - as Ursula will confirm.
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ClassAGeek
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06/04/13 12:56pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Need to replace main TV in rv
Here is a discussion thread on how I replaced my original 23' CRT TV with a new 50" LED:
Yet Another TV Conversion
http://statchuk.com/images/BusTV06.jpg
At the end of the same thread, I showed how I installed a 32" LCD in the rear of our coach using a set of flush mount euro hinges:
Hinge Mounted TV
http://statchuk.com/images/Bus2TV0002.jpg
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ClassAGeek
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06/04/13 11:55am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: I did the "Cheap Handling Fix"!
Moving the links to the inner holes probably puts less load on the bar. The range of movement appears to be reduced as the tie rods move from perpendicular to a more obtuse angle.
Ever have a nut you can't get loose with a socket wrench so you put a big bar on it to get more leverage. Sway bar works the same way. It takes alot more torque with a smaller handled wrench than a longer one. That is why the relocation to the inner hole on the sway bar works. The range of movement is the same between the axel and the frame and that is the two points the sway bar is connected to.
Nice analogy except it is backwards.
First: recognize that the force applied by the motorhome is constant regardless of which hole you choose to use. The MH still weighs the same. It will continue to 'sway' with the same amount of force pushing down. Only the twisting force changes because the different length of the sway bar end.
The long part of the bar exerts more twisting force on the torsion bar. Move to the shorter hole (which we have all done), apply the same amount of force from the motorhome (which is constant) and you will twist the torsion bar less. Less twist means less stress on the sway bar.
The only problem is the range of movement with the shorter hole. The connecting links are no longer perpendicular to the torsion bar arm. There is less movement before the torsion bar falls in-line with the connecting rod, meaning no more twisting movement. Get this far and something will either bend laterally or break.
So far no one has had this happen - but it is a possibly. The fix for this problem is simple: Buy the longer adjustable connecting rods mentioned elsewhere in this thread. Mine are on their way via Amazon.
Simply lengthen the rods until the torsion arm is perpendicular at rest and you will have restored the original range of motion. With the longer tie rods, you will also get a marginally stiffer performance compared to the shorter tie rod.
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ClassAGeek
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05/28/13 05:06pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: I did the "Cheap Handling Fix"!
... I now highly doubt that this second hole on the front swaybar was made for an "adjustable" sway bar...
If you go to another RV forum, you will find an extensive discussion of the "Cheap Handling Fix" for the F53 chassis, with statements from many people who have done it...
I don't think anyone is suggesting this modification is difficult to perform or that it doesn't work. As mentioned here and in the others threads listed: "The torsion bar could break under higher loads."
I thought about this for while. I don't think this assertion is quite right. Moving the links to the inner holes probably puts less load on the bar. The range of movement appears to be reduced as the tie rods move from perpendicular to a more obtuse angle. In this new configuration, the bar is simply not asked to move as much. Less torsion bar movement equals less perpendicular force on the torsion bar which equals less load. Mechanical engineers: This proof is for you :)
BUT! Under large amounts of sway, the tie road gets pulled in line with the sway bar end. The good news: the amount of bending pressure on the torsion bar will now stay more or less constant. The bad news: there is no elasticity left in the system. Push or pull hard enough, and one of the welded connectors holding the bushing / tie rod will have to snap.
In summary: This 'cheap fix' results in less sway. Unfortunately it also makes the system less elastic which can cause problems in the 'extreme' case. The definition of 'extreme' is beyond my knowledge of physics.
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ClassAGeek
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05/27/13 02:34pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Buying an RV from Dealer vs Private Owner
I forgot to mention: For every car I've bought in a private sale, I've sold my car privately too. I have sold more than 40 cars privately over the years. The motivation was always pretty much the same: the few times I asked a dealer for a trade-in quote, I have been shocked at the so-called 'book value'. Selling it myself always resulted in higher proceeds. Every time.
So while I expect to buy a car privately at a significant discount, I know I can also sell my existing vehicle for than I can get from a dealer. How can that be?.
Clearly the answer is: Markup. Dealers want to maximize profit. This means markup on new vehicles and markup for those taken as trades. This practice is not unfair or unjust. It just pays the dealer's bills. To save money, you must remove the dealer middleman.
Disclaimer: I have bought and sold fewer cars since moving to a small town. The number of buyers and sellers just aren't the same as big metropolitan centres. I think this concern is amplified with MHs. There just aren't enough local buyers to go around. As such, I think I will need to sell my current RV on consignment through a dealer when the time is right. It certainly reduces my proceeds but exposes my RV to more buyers. Of course, the buyer is just getting a private sale coach by way of a middleman. I sure wish more RV'ers used Craigslist. That may be the best answer for all of us.
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ClassAGeek
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05/27/13 01:52pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Buying an RV from Dealer vs Private Owner
After buying dozens of cars in private sales and having worked a few summers for a car dealer, I have never had much doubt: private wins most every time. Assuming you can negotiate a 25% lower price from an individual, that pays for a lot of major repairs should something go wrong. But honestly, with a little work you can get a 35% discount.
Dealers routinely get their vehicles from auctions and out of state sources. They know less about the vehicle than just about everyone but you. Inspect the vehicle closely - and hire an expert if you must. Buying 4 vehicles privately will save you enough to buy another for free.
Unfortunately Motorhomes are not as common as cars. Finding what you want can be difficult. You may have to settle and buy from a dealer. You will pay more for that privilege.
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ClassAGeek
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05/25/13 07:54pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: I did the "Cheap Handling Fix"!
Good description. Longer links would be better. I would consider buying them if available.
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ClassAGeek
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05/22/13 03:35pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Shhhh! Quiet that Motor - Ford F53
Does anyone have dbA sound level readings before and after?
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ClassAGeek
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05/22/13 12:19pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: I did the "Cheap Handling Fix"!
My 2008, F53 seems to handle just fine so either I know nothing about a nice ride or we own a fluke.
Please tell me exactly what is accomplished by doing the fix. What will be better than before.
Thank you.
The house doesn't sway as much on bumpy roads. With a little practice, I have found cross wind handling is improved too.
Can't find any related threads. Forum search seems a bit broken right now.
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ClassAGeek
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05/21/13 05:04pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: I did the "Cheap Handling Fix"!
I also moved the sway bar bolts a few weeks ago. I needed to use a floor jack to align one of the bolts. It worked very well.. Great return on investment given that the upgrade cost is zero.
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ClassAGeek
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05/21/13 04:51pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Shhhh! Quiet that Motor - Ford F53
Put two sleeping bags on the dog house next time. That will be better than any commercial foam solution. Then you will see how little it helps. Learning how to drive the F-53 quietly is much more productive. Easy on the gas pedal and keep the revs down where possible. And oh yeah, lower that @&$%* tire pressure to the lowest safe value and secure everything rattles. That will keep the motor from adding to chorus.
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ClassAGeek
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05/21/13 04:38pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Cleaning Fiberglass Roof
I find that I must use chlorine bleach to get rid of the black residue in roof seams.
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ClassAGeek
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05/21/13 04:31pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: WATER DAMAGE????????
I guess you need to look carefully at your coach s wiring. Wires under the floors will often get wet when driving in the rain, so flooding is not a big concern. On my MH, the only significant electrical components below the floor-line are the high current breakers in one of the storage compartments. Properly dried, I wouldn't worry about them much. And if any of these breakers fail, tracking down the problem is about as easy as it gets.
Inverters, UPC and power management devices are all above the floor level. Even so, they got damp in my bathroom flood. No permanent damage.
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ClassAGeek
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05/21/13 11:36am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: WATER DAMAGE????????
After having dealt with major floods recently in both my home and motorhome in the past 12 months, I'll offer some opinions for what they are worth.
Motorhomes appear far less impacted by water damage than houses. I am finding the leaky, plastic-infused walls and floors in an RV do not trap as much moisture as 2x4 covered drywall in a house. The only exception: the roof - where careful examination is very important. Not a big surprise, but I think there is a tendency to compare houses to motorhomes.
Bubbled floors and walls seem to be the biggest risk. Hidden damage? Careful inspection with a flashlight and moisture meter will make me happy. When purchasing my next MH, I'll look carefully for physical damage. I can then do a mold test if I think it is warranted. Test kits are under $20.
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ClassAGeek
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05/21/13 07:36am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Flood! What now?
Check your insurance policy...
Good point. I have carefully reviewed and even confirmed with the insurance co. Water damage from leaks or a maintenance related issue is not covered. Damage due to stupidity is covered. I certainly met the criteria here :)
I have been working with an adjuster since Thursday. He is an RV owner and understands the issues. I has been upfront about what I think is reasonable: carpets, underpadding and accessible cushion flooring should be replaced. Slight water stains don't bother us. Neither does minimal bowing of one interior wall. The bathroom counter is warped and needs replacement and so does a cabinet door. Exterior insulation over storage compartments are wet but I allowed that it happens after rain anyways. By conceding that absolute perfection is not required with a 5 yr old MH, the adjuster has been receptive to doing the big things the way I want - like replacing all carpets and cushion floor with laminate.
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ClassAGeek
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05/11/13 10:32am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Flood! What now?
The answer from the restoration company was: Run both. They use heaters and dehumidifiers.
One person said that heaters actually raise the humidity. That's absolutely correct! Heat increases the convection rate that turns water into vapor, which is the basic definition of humidity.
Dehumidifiers and A/Cs remove vapor from the air and turn it back into water, which you collect - or let run down the side of your RV.
If run just an A/C, you will collect as much water vapor as naturally convects from the water in the wet carpet. Increase the temperature and you generally create more water vapor for the A/C to remove and therefore get faster drying.
If you create heat but don't carry alway the moisture, the vapor eventually converts back to water when it touches a colder surface (condenses) - and hence the possibility of mould in the long term.
It was really pretty obvious :)
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ClassAGeek
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05/09/13 04:59am |
Class A Motorhomes
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