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RE: Tire Pressure Monitor and tire pressures/temp
Valid question. I have used a TPMS for years and have observed the same. I want the lowest PSI possible after the tires have warmed up to ensure a comfortable ride. Accounting for the increase in temperature is part of that comfort equation. Besides, learning how and what to monitor makes it easier to avoid blaming the boogyman when you eventually have a blowout.
The reason for your 10 PSI increase: Moisture in the air from the compressor used to inflate the tires.
You can use nitrogen (where the commercial compressor typically has the appropriate moisture filter). Or just add a moisture filter to your compressor. Here's the one I use: Eastwood Moisture Separator.
You must completely deflate and re-inflate with dry air to notice a difference. With filtered air, you will see PSI changes more inline with the manufacturer's estimates. You will also be able to add and bleed pressure less often as the ambient outdoor temperature changes between seasons (to maintain optimum pressure).
With this procedure, you can safely use the lowest end of the tire manufacturer's pressure recommendation for your CAT-scale-weighed coach. Understand that lower speed = significantly higher weight carrying capacity. Then you know that you can just drive slower until your tires warm up, to get an even higher margin of safety.
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ClassAGeek
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11/11/12 06:33am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Disappointed after changing shocks
I bought a TPMS so I could safely minimize my tire pressure all round. I also put shims in all our windows to make them super quitet Our F-53 coach rides like a.dream. In the summer, when tire pressure rose during the day, the ride suffered. After bleeding back to correct psi, the good ride returned.
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ClassAGeek
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11/02/12 01:00pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: What is the big upkeep of the diesel everyone is mentioning?
Pedantic. Wow! I quess RV'ers can get that way when they are in defense of what they have.:b
Haven't seen that word used since college.:b
Maintenance costs represent less than 5% of my yearly RV expenses. The difference between MHs is not worth sweating.
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ClassAGeek
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10/14/12 09:31am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: What is the big upkeep of the diesel everyone is mentioning?
No need to be pedantic. Here are some simple comparisons:
1. Most gas MHs cost less to maintain than diesel MHs.
2. The costs for either are minor compared to depreciation, CG fees and appliance/house repairs.
I can maintain my MH for less $100 / year. Big deal. That amount is insignificant in relation to the $100,000+ it costs to own a MH over its lifetime.
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ClassAGeek
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10/14/12 06:53am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: What is the big upkeep of the diesel everyone is mentioning?
I spent $58 this year to change oil and filters + lube on my F-53. Couldn't even buy half the oil for a diesel much less DEF. The maintenance cost is not even close (that was the initial question). As someone else said: Is that enough to drive a buying decision? I hope not.
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ClassAGeek
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10/13/12 07:03pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: how big is too big?
Having volunteered in both national and state parks, the parks we were at gave an "average" length of the sites and that's what they post. There usually are longer sites and shorter sites. I have never seen anyone turned away because the RV was too long. If they fit, they could stay. The stated length was just a "recommended" length, not a "restriction". It's up to the RVer to make the decision on trying to get into the site or not. Hope this helps answer the question.
Your answer does provide insight. I am sure there are exceptions, but you are saying it is not length restrictions as much as length recommendations. That would suggest: length is whatever you are personally comfortable with. Well run parks won't say no - they leave it up to you.
I guess the only issue is RV'ers who try to force a rig into a space where it does not fit. But really, how many people are willing to damage a six figure vehicle, just to get it to fit? Sounds like a non-issue to me. Thanks,
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ClassAGeek
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10/11/12 06:00am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: how big is too big?
So the question that comes to mind: Why do campgrounds restrict length when it is pretty clear that 5 ft makes almost zero difference?
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ClassAGeek
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10/10/12 05:30pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: how big is too big?
Weight is worth considering too. Grass and other types of natural ground cover don't necessarily support a rig approaching 20 tons. You can fit; but you may not be able to move after a heavy rain.
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ClassAGeek
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10/09/12 08:30pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Rear Furnace Wont Stay Lit
Sounds like the thermocouple has failed. Its the device the ensures you have a flame and are not just pumping gas into your RV. It usually cuts off the gas in about 10 seconds.
http://homerepair.about.com/od/heatingcoolingrepair/ss/thermocouple_replacement.htm
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ClassAGeek
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10/03/12 05:24pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: tire pressure difference
I agree with the previous poster - nice job summarizing several topics which are often bantered about on this forum.
I will add:
ACTUAL TIRE PRESSURE READINGS
Tire pressure is relative to the ambient outside conditions. Ambient outside air pressure is 14 psi at sea level and is 10 psi at 10000 ft. This means the actual pressure in a tire (a constant volume container) will rise relative to outside pressure as you increase altitude. A tire gauge does NOT register this change since it reads only absolute pressure above ambient pressure. (Explanation: A tire gauge reads zero a sea level and 10000 ft. It should read 14 psi and 10 psi respectively.) Either way, the error is very slight. Just do what the gauge says, and you will be fine.
Here are the different outdoor conditions I normally encounter, and the effects they have on tire pressure relative to outside pressure.
Altitude up, tire pressure up
Altitude down, tire pressure down
Temperature up, tire pressure up
Temperature down, tire pressure down
Since temperature usually drops as altitude rises, is common for tire pressure to remain constant! Is everyone's head hurting yet? :)
PRACTICAL TIRE PRESSURE READINGS
I have weighed my coach and have calculated 76 psi rear and 86 psi front based on the
Michellin Load and Inflation Tables.
I typically need to bleed tires a few times in the summer to maintain these numbers at the beginning of a trip. This time of year, I normally add back the pressure I effectively removed earlier in the summer.
If you get yourself a TPMS, you see how pressure changes before, during and after a trip, at all times of the year. You quickly become an expert a keeping your tires properly inflated 'always' - not just sometimes
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ClassAGeek
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09/29/12 06:56am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Tire Temps, Still on the upside of the learning curve
The answer is simple: same as the other ones. You establish normal temperatures - both cold and hot - for your rig, and then watch for differences over time. I get get a 10-15 degree change as I drive.
I have an IR temperature gun. I can't see using it for RV tires. Any reading I take is limited to when I am parked. That's either too early or too late to take action. The likelihood of stumbling upon a bearing or brake problem when I would be lucky enough to be able to take a reading is too slight for me to bother.
Sorry to say, real-time monitoring while in motion with a TPMS is the only viable choice. Even then, temperature readings may not tell you much.
Good luck.
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ClassAGeek
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09/25/12 08:04pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Removing scratches from full-body paint?
My MH has strategically placed pinstripes after a similar event. They look fairly convincing. Cost: About $10.
I will not pay significant amounts for superficial cosmetic MH improvements or repairs. Was never into the vanity thing. Not planning to start any time soon.
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ClassAGeek
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09/09/12 05:08pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Storing Bikes
I carry 3 bikes on a Blue Ox hitch carrier on the back of our motorhome. I protect them with a John Deer ATV cover. My carbon fiber racing bike rides in our toad.
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ClassAGeek
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09/06/12 08:15pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Super bright porch light?
Some great ideas. Turns out 'scare light' is the magic search term for finding 'really bright porch lights'. I now have plenty of choices.
Another question answered in less than a day on rv.net. Thanks everyone!
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ClassAGeek
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09/06/12 01:28pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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Super bright porch light?
Has anyone ever found a supplier for a really bright porch light replacement?
Some 5th wheels seem to have them. Every MH I've seen has a rather lame - and dim - standard porch light. We have other LED strip lights, so we'll use the porch light only when we really need to see in the dark.
LED is fine - particularly since it will run cool enough to use the existing fixture. But really I want bright - so a halogen or incandescent fixture is fine too. 700 lumens or more would be great (equivalent to 60W bulb or higher). I have been thinking of converting a 12V automobile fog lamp to fit.
Has anyone else wanted to do the same thing?
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ClassAGeek
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09/05/12 07:39pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Do you leave your slides out when it is raining?
I think it comes down to this:
1) Retracted slides virtually never leak.
2) Extended slides can leak. In certain conditions, slides will always leak a bit - sometimes in places you don't see (think horizontal rain and inside a wall).
When considering #1 and #2 above, you must balance the wear and tear on slides every time they are opened.
* * *
When storing for the winter or leaving our MH unattended for an extended period (we often leave our MH at campsites between weekends), we close the slides. If we think we will be on the leeward side of hurricane Isaac, same thing. With that said, our slides are retracted only when travelling most summers.
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ClassAGeek
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09/04/12 05:18am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Do you leave your slides out when it is raining?
Pooled water on a slide topper seems inevitable to me. When water does get through - and it will - I want it to drain away from my coach. The solution is simple and free: extend your slide fully and then retract about 1". n most MH's this causes the bottom to creep in before the top moves, creating a nice slope on top of the slide to carry away water.
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ClassAGeek
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09/03/12 08:21pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Washing roof - Worthwhile?
Some very good points everyone! I think a bleach wash is appropriate - and yes I did find a crack in the skylight above the shower.
I can't see doing this monthly but perhaps once a year will do. Thanks all.
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ClassAGeek
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09/03/12 06:52am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Washing roof - Worthwhile?
Fiberglass with a vinyl covering? It is either fiberglass or vinyl. I have never heard of fiberglass covered with vinyl.
Gulf Stream covers some of their hard fiberglass roofs with a flexible membrane. It looks like either vinyl or polyester - I suspect the former.
http://statchuk.com/images/Roof-2.jpg
The membrane is embossed with a pebbled texture which holds dirt (good I think) but makes it hard to get really clean. Adding wax would be virtually impossible but might not be needed anyway given the construction method used.
BTW: I took this picture was taken after cleaning. :(
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ClassAGeek
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09/02/12 04:49pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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Washing roof - Worthwhile?
I spent the entire morning soaping, scrubbing and rinsing my MH roof. It is fiberglass with a dimpled vinyl-like covering. I tried but could not remove all the black 'plaque' from the textured surface.
It occurred to me about half way through: Am I wasting my time washing this roof?
Aside from a few less black streaks, did I accomplish anything? I even wonder if the black deposits create a barrier against the elements meaning washing does more harm than good?
We don't normally was the roof on a stick house. Does washing an RV roof really do anything useful?
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ClassAGeek
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09/02/12 11:54am |
Class A Motorhomes
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