RV.Net Open Roads Forum: Search

RV Blog


RV Sales




RV Parks


RV Club


RV Buyers Guide


Roadside Assistance


Extended Service Plan


RV Travel Assistance


RV Credit Card


RV Loans

Open Roads Forum Already a member? Login here.   If not, Register Today!  |  Help

Newest  |  Active  |  Popular  |  RVing FAQ Forum Rules  |  Forum Help and Support  |  Contact

Open Roads Forum  >  Search the Forums

 > Your search for posts made by 'Clay L' found 507 matches.

Sort by:    Search within results:
Page of 26  
  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: Flooring

I bought stair edge trim from the laminate manufacturer that matched the laminate I used. I used brads to hold it in place. I used a nail set to recess the heads and colored caulk in the holes. I used laminate glued to the vertical surfaces.
Clay L 04/24/14 09:53am Class A Motorhomes

If you intend to spend months or longer in it many people find that they need at least 1500 pounds of cargo carrying capacity (CCC) for each adult. The CCC or the newer designation OCCC will be on a sticker somewhere in the motor home - usually in a cabinet or closet. You can see the definition of CCC HERE, and OCCC HERE. Scroll down to "2009 New weight label" and download the pdf file. To get CCC subtract the weight of water you will carry and the weight of the people you will carry from the OCCC. It is common to see CCC numbers as low as a few hundred pounds (even on diesel pushers) which means it would be overloaded for weekend trips and unusable for full timing. We have 2800 pounds of CCC and would like to have 3500. We started with a 30 footer with no slides and after a year traded it in on a new 35 footer with two slides.
Clay L 04/23/14 10:57am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Bath room lighting

I installed a 12 v fluorescent fixture instead of the incandescent fixture and that worked well for me. I have read in the bathroom/library all of my life and think that people that don't are weird. :)
Clay L 04/21/14 09:02am Tech Issues
RE: Stay A While

Many hardware stores have a selection of o-rings. On mine the hose to the external tank started leaking where it screws into the Stay A While. The sealing surface of the Stay A While got buggered up somehow and I couldn't find the fitting anywhere including the company that sells the Stay A While so I put a small O-ring in it and that has worked great for two or three years. I know this isn't where your problem is but I thought it might help someone reading this.
Clay L 04/21/14 08:53am Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
RE: Cellular Amplifier & Antennae

You need to make sure you have the required distance between the antenna and the amplifier/transmitter module - 2o feet according to the installation manual. I would call customer service and speak with them. They have been very helpful to me in the past.
Clay L 04/21/14 08:45am Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
RE: Flooring upgrade

I think the temperature restriction was due to the adhesive. There is a new version out with no adhesvive. It has interlocking edges like laminate. I believe it is Allure Ultra. You might check and see if the temp spec is better for it.
Clay L 04/21/14 08:18am Class A Motorhomes
RE: leak in the slide out.

Are you sure the motor is attached to the roof of the slide? All that I have seen are under the bed, accessible through an access panel in the floor of the bed. There is a bulb seal on the inside and outside. One seals when the slide is extended and the other when the slide is retracted. The wiper really isn't a seal but is intended to clean the slide top and sides as it retracts. Could the slide not be contacting the bulb seal and compressing (displacing) it?
Clay L 04/21/14 08:12am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Dual wheel valve extenders

I think you want these:Dually valve kits. I had 4 of them put on my class c several years back. I was very pleased with them. I recall it was about $150.00 including parts. That is what I used. They make it very easy to add air and check the pressure. They come with rubber stabilizers that fit in the hand hole. I have PressurePro pressure sensors on mine and the stabilizers do a good job of keeping the sensors/stems from moving.
Clay L 04/20/14 10:34am Class A Motorhomes
RE: water pump silencing kits - do they work

Winnebago installed a thick felt like pad under the pump and used the flexible lines. That helped but did not eliminate the noise. Some of the noise comes from the PEX lines going to the faucets and vibrating against things it contacts under the floors and inside walls. I don't have room for an accumulator tank but I bet that having one would make big improvement.
Clay L 04/19/14 10:40am Tech Issues
RE: turning off 7345 converter

Winnebago often wires the refrigerator and converter on the same circuit breaker. That worked good for me since my 600 watt true sine converter won't handle the current the refrigerator requires. Before I turn the inverter on I flip the breakers for two ACs, the microwave and the converter/refrigerator. I have an automatic transfer switch that switches the inverter to the service panel when it sees power from the inverter. You can download wiring diagrams for your rig HERE to see how they wired yours.
Clay L 04/19/14 10:34am Tech Issues
RE: Day/night shades

We also went with the MCD American Duo shades throughout the motor home including motorized ones in front of the windshield. For those unfamiliar with them they are a high tech version of the old pull shades. There are two, one behind the other. One is a day shade and the other is a night shade. If you pull down slightly and let go they slowly raise up. They do a super job of providing privacy day and night. The day shades also reduce the amount of heat getting in during the day and the night shades reduce it getting in/out day or night See MCD Posted above by another poster and repeated here for convenience.
Clay L 04/19/14 10:15am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Gray water dump

We don't just dump the gray water on the ground, but in two places do leave the valve open so it can run out on the ground. There is absolutely no odor. The two places where we do this are - a farm in WV owned by my daughter and her husband and my graveled side lot in CO. In years past there were towns in northern CA that required/allowed residential gray water to be separate from the black water system and it was used to water plants and grass. I think (as I recall) Walnut Creek was one such town.
Clay L 04/19/14 10:01am Class A Motorhomes
RE: kwikee step

Unless you can tell exactly when the steps have reached their full in or out extension you will draw a lot of current when they reach the stops. I suppose you could rig a couple of micro switches at the stops to interrupt the current. A diode in series with each micro switch would also be needed so that the opened switch would not be bypassed by the closed one. i have read posts by other people that have done what you are talking about and they didn't mention using micro switches and diodes so maybe that isn't a problem. If it's like ours the motor has a thermal switch inside of it, that's what cuts power to the motor when it hits the limit. The controller senses the lack of current flow and shuts the power off. Now leaving the switch on for an extended period could cause a problem, the thermal switch will cool, the motor will try to turn and the thermal switch will open again. This cycle will continue until the power is switched off. A DPDT momentary switch would be best. Let go when the steps reach their limit, you can't leave the switch in an on position. All of the Kwikee steps that I have seen manuals for use a current sense circuit in the control board to sense the current rise when the motor stalls and use that to cut the current to the motor.
Clay L 04/19/14 08:38am Tech Issues
RE: kwikee step

Unless you can tell exactly when the steps have reached their full in or out extension you will draw a lot of current when they reach the stops. I suppose you could rig a couple of micro switches at the stops to interrupt the current. A diode in series with each micro switch would also be needed so that the opened switch would not be bypassed by the closed one. i have read posts by other people that have done what you are talking about and they didn't mention using micro switches and diodes so maybe that isn't a problem.
Clay L 04/17/14 10:54am Tech Issues
RE: Lost my awning on the highway - high wind

Our friends lost their awning in similar fashion. After that, we took a long velcro strap and put it around the awning arms about half way up so they can't come open on their own. It has worked for a number of years now. Easy to remove and put back on when needed. It has "worked" because they haven't had enough wind from the side. The wind comes up under the awning and unfurls the fabric by striping the ratchet that holds the awning rolled up. The arms are still locked. To do the job the roller tube has to be locked in place somehow.
Clay L 04/16/14 10:18am General RVing Issues
RE: Need new captain chairs

We found it was cheaper to reupholster them but we did the work ourselves. Brad and Hall in Elkhart IN sells a lot of Flexsteel seats. See HERE We stopped at their showroom/shop and they have a lot of stock. They will remove and replace the seats in their shop.
Clay L 04/16/14 10:02am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Home sprinklers.. busted

We have a home security system with freeze and flood sensors along with the usual door and window sensors. We leave the heat set at 50 degrees. The system uses the Verizon data network to notify us and the monitoring company of any issues. The only notification email we got was for a one hour power outage. When we got home a week ago the batteries in two of the three thermostats were dead.It appears that the units held the 50 degrees though since it got down to minus 19 or so and I don't think the one zone with good batteries would have heated the whole house. I replaced all the batteries with new date codes before we left and they are supposed to be good for three years or so. They held up fine the winter before so I guess I got a bad lot of batteries.
Clay L 04/15/14 11:03am Snowbirds
RE: Coaxial TV cable getting hot / Need wiring diagram

Below is a picture of what John described. The DC line is fused and I don't think there could be enough current getting to the park cable to get it warm much less melt. Unless your cable shield is somehow shorted to 120 vac the problem just about has to be with the cable coming from the park. There is supposed to be a small capacitor in the feed from the park amplifier/distribution box to the pedestal and there should be no measurable dc or ac voltage on it. The same is true of your cable. The only instance where a dc voltage should appear on your cable is if you have a satellite receiver connected. That voltage would be 13 to 18 volts and is a high impedance source with current limited to a very small amount and could not cause any heating if shorted. Since you don't have a satellite receiver connected that is a moot point anyway. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v425/ClayL/Winegardwallplatebackside.jpg
Clay L 04/15/14 10:39am Technology Corner
RE: DirectTV / Wineguard

OK , great ....I might call my installers whose numbers I still have. Thanks ! If you are close to Palisade CO (abuts Grand Junction) I have an 18 inch dish and tripod you can have for free if you pick it up. Sorry - not interested in shipping it.
Clay L 04/14/14 11:55am Technology Corner
RE: towing 4 down question

This is from the Blue Ox web site. "Blue Ox's recommendation is that the receiver hitch of the motorhome should never be more than 4 inches higher than the baseplate attachment points. Four inches or less keeps the tow bar level with the ground or slightly angled up towards the coach from the car. The tow bar should never be angled "up" towards the car from the coach." HERE
Clay L 04/14/14 11:37am Class A Motorhomes
Sort by:    Search within results:
Page of 26  

New posts No new posts
Closed, new posts Closed, no new posts
Moved, new posts Moved, no new posts

Adjust text size:

© 2014 RV.Net | Terms & Conditions | PRIVACY POLICY | YOUR PRIVACY RIGHTS