Purchased and installed a set of stabilizers/levelers. Had to shorten the tail pipe, it now exhausts in back of the rear wheels. But, 1) in an uneven campsite, it is real easy to "adjust" the rear so everything is "level". 2) the stability is much better using those crank down devices.
In 1957, my Dad got excited since he had put 100,000 miles on his truck and no major overhauls! That was 1957!! Todays gas engines are cable of going 200 + K miles with proper maintenance. Overhaul at 50K, my 1999 Dodge Ram with a Cummins was just "broke in" at 50K miles!!! Not sure what this guy is talking about.
As stated, it really is not necessary... UNTIL it is needed!!The problem is my crystal ball is not yet working, so I never know when or if I need to have something to protect my expensive electronics, (including the A/C), so I always travel with an EMS to detect high or low voltage situations,( these change through out the day as people come and go in a camp ground), as well as spikes, usually lightening but could be from just about anything!! You just never know, this is cheap insurance!!!
The only problem, is when you stop for fuel, REMEMBER to turn off any propane appliance that is on the open flame and/or the electronic ignitors may cause gas fumes to ignite. This is very rare, I personally do not know of this happening to anyone, but I am sure someone will have a link to a story concerning this. Be safe and turn off the appliances when fueling.
I have had both a toe bar and the dolly! IMHO they are both about the same to set up/take down. The biggest complaint is the "tow dolly takes uo space..", well my dolly conveniently stows underneath the back of my rig, yes it takes a minuet or two to put it back there and then back the rig in, but it is not a big deal! Now you say you have a tow bar and a brake system "given" to you, well the old saying "don't look a gift horse in the mouth"!
At least the electric steps are connected "around" the cut off switch, but un-operated they should not have a significant drain. With the disconnect switch in the storage, or off position you need to check any and all electrical devices and see if they operate. Your in dash radio with presets should operate off the engine battery as with any automobile, but you may have one or more radios in the coach that operate off the coach batteries. This constant drain will significantly shorten the life of those batteries and they will have to be replaced. That said, (you need to find the source of this drain, something may have been connected wrong at the factory, or the coach may be wired that way), another solution, first if you have access to shore power in storage, you can set up some sort of smart charger to keep the batteries "topped" off! If you do not have access to power, a solar panel and smart charger will keep your coach batteries charged! For around $200 you can purchase what you need at Norther tool. Fairly easy to install, mount the solar panel, I used 5250 marine adhesive instead of putting holes in my roof, and ran the wires under the coach to the battery box. The monitor/charger was screwed into the side of the battery box and connected directly to the batteries. You will need to purchase a solar panel to balance the drain on the batteries!
If I were you I would take I-90 west (Mass Turnpike) to Seattle then down I-5 to LA. On the trip to Yosemite at least on the way back I would do the Pacific Coast Highway going south to LA. The trip back? I-10 to I-75 North to 90 then east to Mass! Unless you really are brave and want to take the kids to DC, then I-95. But be prepared for lots of traffic both in DC and thru NJ and NYC! Sounds like a wonderful trip, as stated spend a weekend or two in camps close to your home and get comfortable with the RV! There are several books with listings of RV parks, (go to Camping world) and check them out, I would drive until you are tired, which may vary from day to day, call a camp ground around 3 PM for reservations where you plan to be at days end! If they are full, there is probably one just down the road that would accept your reservation! On a "good" day you could do as much as 600 miles, on a slow day 300 may be all that it will take, so leave it up to what happens, remember the journey is as good as the destination! Good luck!
Just because there is a dodge or mercedes dealer in town does not necessarily mean they work on sprinter based rvs. The information regarding parts availability and acess to qualified mechanics is also discussed in the class a forum section about owning a class a vs c. And several posts mentioned having to take their sprinter diesels to a shop that works specifically on diesels, not just a mercedes or dodge auto dealer. Parts availability for the mercedes sprinter was specifically mentioned. As far as cost, it is more expensive to get a mercedes car worked on than a ford. Not sure it would be any different with an rv.
First what does this have to do with V10 vs Diesel? Second why on earth would you take a Sprinter to a Dodge dealer??? That would be like taking your Ford to a Chevy dealer!!! Get your facts straight! If you really want to get the comfort and millage of a Sprinter based RV then buy one! Don't put out "flames" based on envy!
Years ago they all said get a diesel, it will go 400 - 500 miles before major overhaul ( that is thousands of miles). Only maintenance is change fuel filter and change oil! Today V10's and most modern gas engines will go 100K miles between tune ups and oil changes are on par with diesels. Most RV owners will put under 10K miles per year so the pay out is many many years which most of us have long since traded the RV. That said diesels will give you better milage than gas, (I get an honest 14 MPG towing a Ford Escape)! The V6 Mercedes Diesel is smooth and quite and gives me all the power I need in my Prisim! I am happy I bought the Prisim!!!
Actually, it is geometry more than physics, but it doesn't matter what it is called, it works. Just as when you make a turn, the front wheels will pull themselves back to straight ahead, when towing the wheels do the same. It is a function of the caster adjustment in the steering geometry.
Wranglers through about '06 had an "OFF, not locked" position in the ignition switch. That is where the switch needs to be when being towed.
'07 through about '09 Wranglers do not have the "OFF, not locked" position, so I have heard, so the switch has to be in the "ACC" position. This requires that the battery be disconnected or a fuse pulled to keep the odometer from counting miles, and the battery from going dead.
Later model Wranglers have no steering lock, they tell me, so it is no longer a problem.
the Owners Manual for the model you have should have the instructions for towing.
?? I had a 09 Wrangler and turned the key "one click" which did not activate the electrical system but unlocked the wheels, so perhaps they did not call it unlock, but that is what it did!
I have been criticized for posting about this subject before, but if you do not believe me, listen to Clark Howard, who has the same opinion! As stated this is just an insurance policy full of terms and written by lawyers to protect the company from as much damage as they can. They sell you this policy and bet you will not have a problem, you buy this policy betting that you will have a problem?? I am retired from a very reputable company and I was in sales, we sold "extended warranty's" and they were considered 100% profit! Not that occasionally we replaced "stuff" when warranted! Remember those "Warranty Companies" are in business to make a profit, not to replace broken stuff on your RV! Just my $0.02 worth!!!
I guess I am towing over the limit?! My toad is a 2012 Ford Escape which is around 4,100 lbs. I have a 5K tow hitch on my Prisim, But not towing and towing there is about 3/10 of a MPG difference! Up hill or down I do not see/feel any difference with the toad or not! Plenty of I guess I am towing over the limit?! My toad is a 2012 Ford Escape which is around 4,100 lbs. I have a 5K tow hitch on my Prisim, But not towing and towing there is about 3/10 of a MPG difference! Up hill or down I do not see/feel any difference with the toad or not! Plenty of [power and good MPG, I am happy! And if anything happens and the overage is taken into account I will hold Coachmen responsible for putting a 5K hitch on the vehicle!!!
I would do the spark plugs sooner than the 97K miles recommended! There have been horror stories about the plugs sizing and breaking off, (head replacement or serious machining to get the old plug out)! I would change them at between 30K and 50K miles and put "nosieaze"" on the new ones to insure that when changing them the next time they will come out clean. They sell 3 or even 4 point spark plugs that do not require "gapping" a little more expensive but will give you better service!
I got better millage with my A, than with a V10 Class C. Now the A had a 300 HP Cummins and was 38 feet in length. The V10 C was 32 feet in length. My current C a Coachmen Prisim gets 14 MPG, it is a Sprinter based V6 Diesel at 25 feet in length! In MHO, do not buy your vehicle based on millage, buy it based on what it will provide you and your family, the few dollars difference in millage will pale in comparison to not having the right vehicle to meet your needs,(floor plan floor plan Floor plan!!!).
I went from a 38 foot DP to a Coachmen Prisim. There are only the two of us, plus the two dogs and the cat, but after going thru the stuff we never, or hardly ever use we had no problem downsizing. I get an honest 13.5 MP2 with a toad. Never had a problem with performance, although steepest grade was in Tenn. on I 24. The same route with the class A was 60MPH to 40 MPH. Ride is adequate although the big leather captains chair in the A was a little more comfortable. I have no regrets, but do the research for yourself. Good luck!