RE: Air pressure for 19.5's
How much pressure do you run in your 19.5's? I'm at 90(factory pressure) now in my 08 4500 and i'd like to soften the ride a bit.
Thanks!
Brian :)
The factory pressure is for the max weight rating of your axles. I drive an F450 at work, and run the tires at 80 psi at its loaded weight, which is the recommended pressure for its axle capacities of 6000 front, and 11,000 rear. Your 4500 has higher axle capacities, therefore the 90psi, but as said earlier, you should inflate to the weight being hauled. If you do a fair amount of driving unloaded, I'd drop them to 70 psi, which is the lowest pressure recommended for the 19.5's, then air up when hauling your camper or whatever load you have. Even with your camper on the truck, you might not even need 90psi on the rears, because you may not even be close to the trucks 12,000 rear axle rating.
Rich
RE: Anyone using a 09 Dodge QC 6.7l to pull around 6k ?
Did a trip late September, around 950 miles total. Truck had 456 miles on it when we left and a little over 1400 back at home. Average for the trip was 11.3 with the camper in signature(5000lbs)on all the time. This was in the Sierras around Tahoe, and over to the coast at Ft Bragg, south to Bodega Bay, then home. Empty I'm seeing 14 to 15.
Rich
RE: 07 Dodge CTD Engine brake *Auto trans* can you feel it work?
Lot of incorrect info in here. The factory exhaust break works from 1000rpm and above and not in reverse. The EB works whether the torque converter is locked or not. It provides 230, or 280 brake HP(cant remember the exact number) on all models. It does increase with RPM....more RPM equals more back pressure and more braking force.
There have been reports of sticking factory EBs leading to a non full engagement and a weaker braking feel. Might have your dealer check it out.
Mav
Have to disagree with you on this one. The EB does not work when the torque converter is unlocked, if it did, the transmission would overheat very quickly. Plus with it unlocked, you wouldn't have the direct connection with it, which is how the EB would provide all the braking to begin with. Check any of the aftermarket EB suppliers, they all provide transmission controllers with their EB kits for the automatic trucks. Even Jacobs, which supplies the factory approved EB for the 06-07 5.9 automatic trucks, says right in their website that torque converter lockup is necessary for EB operation. The 6.7 EB does work down 1000rpm's in the higher gears, but from my experience with it, and others I've read about on the TDR and DTR websites, doesn't go that low in the lower gears, about 1800rpms is what I've seen.
Rich
RE: 07 Dodge CTD Engine brake *Auto trans* can you feel it work?
When I had my 07 5.9 manual with the PacBrake, it was more noticeable upon engagement than my 09 with the auto. The 6.7 with the auto will only engage the exhaust brake when the torque converter is locked, and only then will it work down to about 20mph, whereas the manual with exhaust brake will work all the way down to first gear. In tow/haul mode, the transmission will downshift automatically, increasing the braking of the EB as the engine RPM's rise. The thing I've noticed is that at hiway speeds, it works as good or better than my manual truck did. It just doesn't work below 20mph since the torque converter unlocks at that point which disengages the EB. It does seem to work better with a load on the truck than running empty. I recently drove Hwy 20 in California, from Willits to Ft Bragg, 30 miles of twisty, windy, and steep section of hiway that has multiple turns that are 15 to 20mph. Having the EB disengage at 20mph took some getting used to, as I was used to the manual trucks EB working all the time. Strange thing I noticed is that 3rd gear will stay locked and EB engaged down to 20mph, but 2nd gear will only work down to 25mph. Anyone else notice this with your trucks?
Rich
RE: TV replacement
This is from the Arctic Fox Truck Camper Owners Forum and the method that I used to install my 19" HDTV.
http://www.afnash.com/forum/forum26/8059.html
TG
Thats my camper on the AF Forum. Another item I installed was an A/B switch, so that I could switch from cable to antenna without changing the coax cable each time.
Rich
RE: How Long of a Hitch Extension Should I Use ?
What type of tow bar are you using? Ball type or receiver type. The reason I ask is I use a ball hitch towbar and need to have the ball about 8" above the hitch extension to get the tow bar at the correct level. This will have an effect on how far back your extension will need to be.
Rich
I purchased a plain vanilla receiver type tow bar from Currie Enterprises. Here's a pic of it from their website:
http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q32/DECJ1/ce9033f.jpg
Don,
Here's a picture of another members setup on this site. Mine is very similar except I have a 36" extension to get slightly past the camper bumper. Depending on how high your truck hitch is, and if you have any lift on your Jeep, you may need to have a raised ball mount to keep the tow bar coupler as level as possible when hitched up. Mine is raised 8" above the extension so things may get a little tight if it's not past the end of the camper.
Rich
http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee74/SDome/new%20tow%20rig/newtowrig4.jpg
RE: Help Needed with New DRW Problem
Take the camper off your dually and put it on somebody elses SRW truck and drive it around. That should do it......:)
RE: How Long of a Hitch Extension Should I Use ?
What type of tow bar are you using? Ball type or receiver type. The reason I ask is I use a ball hitch towbar and need to have the ball about 8" above the hitch extension to get the tow bar at the correct level. This will have an effect on how far back your extension will need to be.
Rich
RE: Critical checks for Arctic Fox wood camper owners
Fat Fox,
I feel your pain. My camper delamed 3 years ago under the cabover. Had it fixed, but it is always on my mind to keep an eye on the seals of this thing. But as you said, even though the caulking looks good, is it really sealed from the elements? Another leak I've had was the camper tail light in the sewer access compartment. It was leaking due to not being sealed very well. Do you have insurance on the camper and will they cover this?
Rich
RE: New Ram heavy duty
If the Cummins passes fine without urea in the pickups, why do the chassis-cabs need urea?? Doesn't make any sense to me! What if I order my chassis-cab with a side of pickup bed, will they hold the urea???
The urea tank in the C+C models is under the cab. And....I don't know why they use urea in the C+C models and not in the pickups. Good question :h
The Pickups are in a different emmissions class than the C&C which is why the use of urea in the C&C.
Rich
RE: Batteries dead - again
jwolff,
Are you turning the battery disconnect switch off that is located under the kitchen sink when you store the camper? If so, you will not get a charge to the batteries, even while plugged into shore power. If it is on you should see 13.6 volts at the batteries while in its normal charge mode,13.2 volts while in the storage mode.
Rich
RE: Wiring gremlins
Since both the camper and boat trailer lights are not working, I'd say you may have tripped the TIPM(Totally Integrated Power Module)on your truck. It supplies the power for the lighting circuits to the trailer plug at the back of your truck. It can be reset 3 times by Dodge before it has to be replaced(approx. $800). There are some fuses within the TIPM that you can replace. It is located in front of the battery on the drivers side. Take the cover off and check the fuses for the trailer circuits. Theres a diagram under the cover to tell you which ones they are. If they are good then you'll need to make a trip to the dealer to reset the TIPM. You'll still need to find out why it tripped before plugging the boat or camper into the truck. I'd start with the boat trailer first, and check everything including water inside of the tail lights which would cause the circuit to trip on the truck. I've installed this modulite HD on my truck to protect the TIPM from circuit overload. Let us know what you find.
Rich
RE: Final Drive Ratio
Up to mid year 05, Dodge's had the NV5600 6 speed manual which had the .73 overdrive ratio, which was available with either the 3.73's or 4.10's. Then mid year 05, Dodge went to the G56 6 speed manual which has a .78 overdrive, and was only available with the 3.73's up to the late versions of the 5.9 Cummins. The last built 5.9's in 07 ended up getting the G56 with the better .73 overdrive ratio. Mine is an early 5.9 with 3.73's, the G56 and .78 ratio. Towing or hauling it is great, but empty I'd like to have less rpm's. Unless you find an early 05 truck, you are going to get the 3.73's which is plenty with the Cummins.
Rich
RE: Flat tow or trailer?
I do both. Flat tow when just going somewhere and need a vehicle to run around in. Trailer tow if going 4 wheeling because as you mentioned, it's easier to get home if something breaks. I am finding that I prefer the flat towing though. I've got the M&G brake system on my Jeep http://www.m-gengineering.com/BrakeSystem.html with the Blue Ox Acclaim tow bar which works very well. The Ready Brake is a great way to go also.
Rich
RE: GVWR Requirement for Truck Scales
I called the CHP Commercial Vehicle Section today, and spoke with another officer. I again asked the same question, and he proceeded to give me the same answer, but said that if it looks like a pickup, and it is not being used for a business purpose you most likely won't even get looked at. With your RV attached no problem. All bets are off if you have a flat bed such as btg has. Again, this officer said the same thing about the GVWR of being over 11,500lbs, they don't consider them pickups anymore. If anyone wants to call the Commercial Vehicle Section of the CHP, the number is 916-445-1865. It seems like every officer you talk to has a little different interpretation of the law.
Wrasle, I was working close by Cisco on the Friday you were there. I dropped by to introduce myself but no one was around. Hope you had a great time on your atv's.
Rich
