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 > Your search for posts made by 'Dakzuki' found 152 matches.

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RE: Opinion Needed - Repacking Wheel Bearings and found THIS

If that is from a previous bearing failure the heat has likely changed the properties of the steel....not for the better. Cracks can also begin in divots like that and propagate through the part leading to failure. I'd scrap it for the few hundred bucks involved.
Dakzuki 04/22/16 10:46am General RVing Issues
RE: Do most class Cs have Alumframe® construction?

"Alumiframe®"is a trademarked name. Are you looking for that specifically or do you want an aluminum frame?
Dakzuki 04/22/16 10:40am Class C Motorhomes
RE: New House Batteries

Instead of having two 6 volts can I replace with 1 12 volt or 2 12 volt batteries???? Yes, but I don't know why you would. True deep cycle 12 volt flooded batteries are unicorns. They may be out there but I've yet to see one in person. A true deep cycle battery will last longer than the hybrid 12 volt ones that are most commonly installed in RVs (those "marine/RV batteries".
Dakzuki 04/10/16 12:02pm General RVing Issues
RE: Cost of Levelers?

Here's a money saving tip if you want HWH to install them. Buy them from a dealer (like Lichtsinn for instance) to be installed at HWH. You will get the guys that know the system best installing it but it will be cheaper than buying directly from them. HWH doesn't want to undercut their dealer network so they sell for more if you buy directly from them. No, I haven't done this but others in the RV community have done it. It pays to shop around....once again.
Dakzuki 04/10/16 11:28am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Need batteries

I have a couple of these deep cycle 12V Group 31 AGM batteries in parallel under the step (the stock location as provided by Winnebago) in our Itasca 24V Class C. They're 115 amp hours each, so they provide a total of 230 amp hours. Their specified float voltage is 13.6 volts, so stock single voltage converters don't dry them out over time. Also since they're AGM, they charge faster with any voltages in the charging range than wet cell batteries do. This means that they can both be floated and charged fairly quickly using just a stock 13.6 volt RV converter. That's what we do with our RV: http://www.fullriverbattery.com/product/batteries/DC115-12 You're running AGMs with a single stage converter?
Dakzuki 03/25/16 11:38am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Need batteries

I'm not familiar with the H model but I would look around floor level for the metal door that has fuses under it. The converter will likely be there. I would highly recommend joining this group. It is the best single source of information on these RVs: LINK There are a couple of associated groups that go with it: Here and here
Dakzuki 03/23/16 11:16am Class C Motorhomes
RE: for those with sprinter type C's

My lower ones are metal with sealed doors. I've never had water intrusion.
Dakzuki 03/23/16 11:06am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Need batteries

Dakzuki, If I decide to change to 6V batteries, do I need to change any other components. Which 6V AGM batteries did you get No other components to change although if you are still running the original single stage converter it would be a very wise decision to upgrade that to a multi stage unit (Progressive Dynamics makes one that replaces it). Your batteries will charge faster and last longer. Most folks go with golf cart as they are the most economical. I have Lifeline GPL-4CTs in mine but I know of at least one person that squeezed GPL-6CTs in theirs. Lifeline also makes true deep cycle 12 volt batteries.Lifeline You may be able to fit them in without modifying anything. But most of all....swap that converter for a good one.
Dakzuki 03/21/16 11:07am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Need batteries

Only room under the entry steps for 2 12V in parallel. With minor modifications to the hold down you can get two 6 volt golf cart batteries in there easily. Lots of View/Navion owners have done it. Very common mod. I have two 6 volt AGMs in mine.
Dakzuki 03/21/16 10:13am Class C Motorhomes
RE: I need a good disposable glove solution for dumping

I use the heavy black nitrile ones which are the same ones I use for working on cars and doing other messy stuff (painting, etc). $10 for 100 at Amazon. They are tough and multi purpose.
Dakzuki 03/12/16 03:05pm General RVing Issues
RE: Where do you stop for air?

You don't know what your tire pressures are driving around as your tires have already heated up. Tire pressures are checked/set when COLD. That means not warmed up from driving, not been sitting out in the sun a long time. You should have plenty of space to carry something like this: LINK
Dakzuki 02/27/16 01:10pm General RVing Issues
RE: Rack and Pinion Steering on Itasca Navion IQ

Who is this "service center"? Sounds to me like they may not know what they are doing or their parts sourcing sucks.
Dakzuki 02/27/16 01:00pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Winnebago View 24

We have a 2008 24J diesel with a diesel generator too. Our 18 gallon propane tank will usually last about a month just running the fridge. Running the fridge and heater at night, it will last about a week. An option to driving to refill the main tank, would be to install a T fitting adapter at the propane tank. This way you could connect a spare 20 lb. propane tank if you main goes empty or if you just want to use the spare 20 lb. tank before you use the main tank. There are options... Regards, Jim The later model (2011+) View/Navions have the LP tank mounted inboard of the chassis rails. There is no off the shelf "extend a stay" type device available for them. One must get creative to hook up external LP.
Dakzuki 02/27/16 10:49am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Winnebago View 24

We never have an issue with LP capacity with the small tank. The first thing we run out of is fresh water. I carry a collapsible water container and reload the tank from it using the winterizing system.
Dakzuki 02/25/16 11:39am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Transmission oil cooler

Radiators aren't all that expensive and at that age it has to have some flow degradation. You might be able to get one with a bigger core too.
Dakzuki 02/21/16 11:22am Class C Motorhomes
RE: C as primary vehicle

Anyone use a Class C as a primary vehicle? I know it sounds crazy at 8 mpg, but I was curious. would prefer a C to my truck and trailer but it is difficult to afford insurance, maintainence, fuel, and payments on 2 trucks. My dad used to commute in a small C back in the 70s. Not too far and it was only about 19 feet long. at 10 mpg or so the fuel economy wasn't much worse than many cars. We only had two cars. A Pinto wagon and the RV.
Dakzuki 02/18/16 10:32am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Roof vents in the wind

Thanks. I figured vent covers would work but do you get the same air flow from them? Yes, they do reduce the air flow a bit, but not enough to make a big difference. Get the Maxx Air II's. The advantages outweigh the disadvantages of having the covers. They also enable the vents to be used with a roof full of snow and wide open when raining.
Dakzuki 02/16/16 10:15am General RVing Issues
RE: Propane..unlawful to have fridge on...is incorrect...

In reply to Oregon's " Safety Law and Pumping Your Own Gas", that might be what it is called but it's not for safety, the law was and is to create jobs, Period. It is also a "Safety Law" that prohibits crushing aluminum cans and then trying to redeem them for the nickel deposit. If you believe that those are safety laws, I've got some excellent ocean front property for sale. It's legal to pump your own diesel in Oregon. The law pertains to fuels with low flash points.
Dakzuki 02/11/16 11:05pm General RVing Issues
RE: Smart Car

Respectfully commenting on the Smart Car..... I feel the Smart car is ideal for taking along on a trip behind a motor home right on the ground, not on a trailer, solely for simplicity. The Smart is a much better choice over a scooter or other cycle for safety, comfort, and weather. The question you need to ask yourself is..... Does the car meet your everyday need when you are not on a trip? Is it a vehicle you would commute around town in? If your answer is "yes", then you are making a good decision. As for me on a personal note, I would not feel comfortable driving around my home town area in a Smart car because I am not sold on it's safety. Though it's occupancy cage is well engineered to prevent penetration, the lack of mass along with it's shape has it bouncing around accident scenes like a billiard ball. I fear it would fly into other moving vehicles along with adding fatal "G" forces on occupant internal organs. I wish I could find that early Smart car crash test video of a yellow Smart against a Civic or Corolla. The impact was a 1/3 driver side frontal test. The "other" car fared typically well with occupant safety. The Smart occupancy cage did great but the car spun multiple revolutions in the air about 5 feet off the ground and soaring away. That scared the heck out of me. I couldn't feel comfortable with a Smart after seeing that video. Again, that is just me. Everything has risk, even driving a motor home, especially a class A. Each decides for himself what risk he is willing to accept. "The Smart occupancy cage did great but the car spun multiple revolutions in the air about 5 feet off the ground and soaring away." That's a safer crash than a dead stop. Energy is gradually being expended as it is used up spinning around.
Dakzuki 02/09/16 09:50am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Let's talk trash

The best I have seen was in Oregon at a State Park. They had one centralized trash/recycling (even a dedicated 1 lb LP cylinder bin) which was away from the sites. It made things much quieter and keeping the dumpsters away keeps wasps away.
Dakzuki 02/06/16 05:56pm General RVing Issues
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