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 > Your search for posts made by 'Dale.Traveling' found 370 matches.

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  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: Hydraulic Levelling

Do a web search using "hydraulic hose repair near me" if you can remove the failed line. Otherwise "mobile hydraulic hose repair near me". The lines are not RV specific and have many industrial applications. You'll save a lot doing the removal of the old and installation of the new. If all else fails any RV shop can do the work.
Dale.Traveling 07/21/16 03:49pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Steps stopped working

Checking for power is pretty simple. Most, and I hope the OP's stairs does, have a light that comes on anytime the stairs are active. Craw under the coach and have someone open the door. If the light comes on you have power. The thing about the stairs if you notice there are no mechanical switches that let the controller know if the stairs are at a limit either in or out. What the controller does is monitor the amps the motor is demanding. When the stairs hits the limit of movement, in or out, the motor effectively binds and current increases and the controller shuts the motor off. What can happen is if the stairs are binding or jammed somehow the controller will do what it does and shut the motor off. Another problem could be a poor ground. A bad ground will limit the volts available but for the motor to do it's work with a lower voltage the amps required will increase. More amps and the controller shuts the motor down. Don't think that is your problem since the normal indications are erratic movement. There's a bunch of You Tube videos you can watch to help work the issue. Just be very careful. If your fingers are in the wrong place when the stairs activate you'll have a story to tell the grand kids along with a possible trip seeking out medical attention.
Dale.Traveling 07/20/16 08:54am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Losing power while plugged into Shore ? Follow up more info

Your Progressive Industries EMS-LCHW 50 not only has surge protection but also under and over voltage protection. The specs call out a low limit of 104 volts it could trip a little higher or lower. Either way when it trips it will recycle back to the initial plug in delay before turning power back on. The office isn't losing power because they don't have a protection device like you do. Plus unless someone has a meter monitoring the voltage level and constantly watching they are not going to see that anything is wrong. Your neighbor keeps tripping the breakers because of the low volts. As voltage drops a device, such as your A/C is going to demand more amps to before the same amount of work. If you A/C needs 15 amps when power is 120VAC drop the volts to 100VAC and the amps will climb to 18 amps. Until either campers start departing and the power demand drops or you move to a different camp site there's nothing you or the camp ground can do short of rewiring power to the row your currently camped on which isn't going to happen in the next day or so. You can throw caution to the wind and bypass the protective features of the EMS-LCHW 50 but you risk potential damage in particular to the A/C compressor motors. Give Progressive Industries a call if you are willing to take the risk.
Dale.Traveling 07/19/16 07:28pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Converter bad

I would open the breaker panel and check that all hardware is tight but before you do unplug from shore power and trip the breaker(s) on the generator to ensure ALL power has been removed. Do the same for the transfer switch. A loose clamp holding a wire feeding power from a breaker or the neutral bus bar could cause a low or no volt situation. Cycling the breaker might have moved everything a bit to get partial power. Running the convertor off a second outlet is an OK short term temporary solution but best to have it on a dedicated circuit. Draining the house batteries and not being able to recharge makes life in a coach difficult considering how much stuff requires 12VDC either as primary power or for control purposes.
Dale.Traveling 07/19/16 09:52am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Warranty Repairs on Class A

Warranty repairs can require a bit more effort on the owner then paying out of pocket for service. Your neighborhood Ford dealer can not help. The coach has to fit inside the service bays which are usually not designed for a coach sized and weight vehicle. The extra effort is locating a Ford heavy truck service center OR and independent shop that is authorized by Ford to do the work. Your first stop is at you phone and making a call to Ford's 1-800 number. Your local RV service center is not the best choice for chassis and power train related work. If your fridge is acting up or the water pump has called it quits then by all means go to an RV service center. If the transmission won't shift beyond fourth gear go to a Ford truck service center.
Dale.Traveling 07/17/16 07:35am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Planning to buy 1988 Class A to live in

Your first thing - before you buy - is to find a park that will accept it. Some do go by age. Drive through the parks to see what's parked there. Some parks won't let you do any repairs while you're parked there. Also, rent usually doesn't include electric so keep that in mind for an added expense. You'll need to register it, get it tested for emissions, if required and have insurance on it - not just for you but liability for others that may get hurt. There are now a ton of YouTubes on RVing, including dumping tanks, etc. Hopefully, your dog is not a barker if left alone because that would be a problem. You have a lot of thinking to do on this. Good luck! I was thinking that same. There are a ton of hidden cost associated with living in a coach. An older coach those cost just to keep it livable without considering drivable can be high. If the prior owner neglected if you could be looking at a money pit regardless of how handy you are. Replacing the roof could cost as much as $100 a foot just in material. Forget about camp grounds and search out trailer parks that have RV sites. You'll cut your "rent" in half. Camp grounds can be costly and you'll be paying for the pool, mini golf, fire ring, gated entry, life guards, boat docks and such. Good luck, you might need it.
Dale.Traveling 07/16/16 08:54pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Unhooking toad at campground

Do a dress rehearsal unhooking at home. Should only take a minute or two. Two pins, safety cables and electrical and the toad is free. Park the coach then park the toad. We'll wait for you but once you start checking tire pressures and power train fluid levels I might be tempted to voice my displeasure. Your other option is pull thru camp sites.
Dale.Traveling 07/07/16 08:04am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Replacing Class A dash am/fm/cd changer

Replaced the original two seasons ago. Not difficult but you'll have two potential problems, splicing in the new wiring harness and mounting in the dash. Splicing is simple the mount is a pain. The dash is made by the coach builder and there's no telling what is available to hold the radio is place. Resourcing a replacement is just about as hard as research the next rig. Options are endless beyond old school AM/FM radio. Touch screens, satellite radio, internet streaming, multiple CD, Blue Tooth, video interface, Aux inputs, MP3 interface, weather radio,,,,
Dale.Traveling 07/07/16 07:23am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Ballpark cost of Brake Job on F53 Gasser

The ABS light is pretty simple to troubleshoot and anyone with a capable OBD code reader, something at bit more then what the average shade tree mechanic might have, can determine what the problem is. A problem sensor is an easy driveway fix. The system will self reset but you may need to drive the coach for the ABS system to re-calibrate and self test beyond the power on testing during starting. Concerning the brakes replacement parts are not the big cost of the work, labor is what will drive the cost. Figure $100-$130 a hour. Estimate 2 hours per wheel maybe 3 if the rotors need to come off. With a little effort an owner can research parts to determine that cost. If the prior owner abused the brakes hard enough that at 18,000 miles they need to be replaced I would bite the budget bullet and have the wheel bearings reworked. To get the rotors off the hub bolt needs to come off and the mechanic will have easy access to the wheel bearing at that point.
Dale.Traveling 07/07/16 07:07am Class A Motorhomes
RE: generator operstions

Hair dryers and hot plates also have a high steady power demand. A/C's are still the best and easiest to use. If your A/C has heat strips bonus time when the air temps are cooler. Just do a little math a head of time to source stuff to create a large enough load. A little harder when plugging stuff in to get into high wattage territory. If you're running multiple items to create a load just be sure to use multiple circuits so you don't pop a coach circuit breaker. 15 Amps @ 120 VAC (a common line breaker in a coach) is only 1800 watts and to get to 7000 watts you'll need to demand almost 30 amps of electricity. Watts = Volts * Amps.
Dale.Traveling 07/01/16 04:28am Class A Motorhomes
RE: ADVICE PLEASE

You sure jumped in with both feet. Starting with the house power, since you have two batteries connected together if one is dead it will take out the second. Connected together you have to think of the two batteries as one. The batteries are the life blood of the house. Nothing will work if the batteries are dead. Fridge, A/C, heat (thermostats are DC), water pump, lights,,,,. You can get by using a car battery while you're getting the coach up to your standards but you will need a deep cycle battery(s) before heading out on the road. A car battery powering the house just won't last very long doing so. Generator starting power can be either the engine or house batteries depending on how the builder wired the coach. I would guess the Coronado is wired to start off the house batteries which is why you can't get it to start. The main and aux switches above the door are used to disconnect the house and engine batteries when you are not using the coach. Should be two maybe three big high current solenoids somewhere that the switches control but if the batteries are dead you don't have power to close the switches. Power flow is batteries - disconnect solenoids - fuse panel - loads. There could be a circuit breaker here and there but normally with DC fuses are use. I don't know enough about your chassis to venture into it but there are many how do and will. Value is a difficult target to hit especially with older rigs. Demand will have an effect but prior owner maintenance is top of the list. What ends the useful life of a coach is water leaks, aka RV cancer. About the same as rust on a car but the problem is the damage is usually between the walls where you can't see it. If the past owners maintained it and stayed on top of keeping water out you should have a solid coach that will give you many years of adventures.
Dale.Traveling 07/01/16 04:02am Class A Motorhomes
RE: How long before buying a toad

Four months but with a twist. Got lucky and had a towable car already in the drive way but waiting a bit before acquiring the tow bar and base plate. Any trip longer than a weekend the car tags along for the adventure.
Dale.Traveling 07/01/16 03:10am Class A Motorhomes
RE: generator operstions

When the weather cools two space heats will make for a reasonable load.
Dale.Traveling 06/30/16 06:10pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: step issue

First clean the grounding wire connection at the coach frame. There are no limit switches or such to tell the control when the steps are fully retracted or extended. Instead the controller monitors motor current. When the steps hit a limit or obstruction motor current spikes and the controller shuts off power. Poor grounding and you'll get an early current spike. Retraction has a slightly higher current demand due to gravity then extending which could explain why you get full extension. I'm also thinking may be the drive gear has broken teeth. The gear is cast pot metal and is the weak link in the mechanical chain. Loose a tooth or two and the stairs will stop at that gear position. Be very careful working on the steps. Unexpected extension or retraction with you fingers in the wrong spot isn't something I even want to think about.
Dale.Traveling 06/30/16 09:49am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Searching for 19.5" Wheel Cover

A single is going to be the problem. Most, if not all, are sold in pairs if looking to buy new. Replaced my front 19.5" 10 lug Ford simulators I found on Amazon for $128.
Dale.Traveling 06/27/16 03:53pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Using hydraulic bottle jacks for leveling

The non-functioning jacks would make a good lift point but a 40' coach is going to be difficult considering the potential weight in the neighborhood of 30k lbs. if not more. My gas coach tops out at 18K lbs. which is a bit easier to work with. Wheel leveling might be a better option. Before I install a hydraulic system I leveled with two jack stands and a bottle jack all 12 ton. Only needed three (stands and jack) since you want to keep at least one rear firmly planted for the brakes. No bleed down from the jack. Found them at Northern Tool for under $100.
Dale.Traveling 06/27/16 03:16pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Generator duration

You'll get about five days of continuous run time at half load but figure four days as a bit more conservative. If you conserve and only run during the heat of the day, morning and/or evening battery recharge you might be able to double the time.
Dale.Traveling 06/27/16 03:01pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Need Some Guidance - Replace/Upgrade Generator

Unless the generator will not support your post overhaul power budget I would stick with what you have. You can pull it take to a small engine/generator shop for a check out and any work that might be necessary that you can't do yourself. Clean it up maybe build an enclosure for better sound attenuation but just ensure good air circulation for cooling if you do.
Dale.Traveling 06/27/16 04:15am Class A Motorhomes
RE: B-QUIET HLINER

Don't know what the prior owner used but my coach is maybe slightly louder than my daily driver until I hit about 4500 RPM. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-qy9E_TqGPVE/Vp9vjCiZG3I/AAAAAAAAYRk/yko1493nbbw5MngJXbtHF1kuKGUFe1m-ACCo/s640/upload_-1
Dale.Traveling 06/26/16 04:04pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Winegard to Jack King

I replaced the bat wing crank up with the fixed position jack antenna. Once less item on my pre-drive check list. The mounting plate is a flat square which makes sealing much easier. Power for the antenna amplifier comes from the same source as the bat wing via the coax. Performance is slightly better. Most noticeable is the jack isn't as directional as the bat wing.
Dale.Traveling 06/26/16 03:56pm Class A Motorhomes
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