RV.Net Open Roads Forum: Search

RV Blog

  |  

RV Sales

  |  

Campgrounds

  |  

RV Parks

  |  

RV Club

  |  

RV Buyers Guide

  |  

Roadside Assistance

  |  

Extended Service Plan

  |  

RV Travel Assistance

  |  

RV Credit Card

  |  

RV Loans

Open Roads Forum Already a member? Login here.   If not, Register Today!  |  Help

Newest  |  Active  |  Popular  |  RVing FAQ Forum Rules  |  Forum Help and Support  |  Contact  



Open Roads Forum  >  Search the Forums

 > Your search for posts made by 'Dale.Traveling' found 315 matches.

Sort by:    Search within results:
Page of 16  
Next
  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: Class A- electrical issue?

,,, "a 28-page list of things that are blown out, broken and leaking",,,About the only acceptable deal would the seller paying you to take it away.
Dale.Traveling 01/16/17 09:29pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Class A- electrical issue?

I'm guessing the seller is referring to the 12VDC stuff. Could be as simple as the battery is dead. Could also be the disconnect circuit has failed in a disconnect state or a high amp fuse between the batteries and the coach has opened. Another potential source is the AC to DC power converter has failed and the batteries are dead. Not a difficult problem to chase down if you do a bit of homework first.
Dale.Traveling 01/16/17 09:39am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Boondockin - will my coach battery go dead

Have you compared the power usage of the furnace vs. the electric blanket? I would guess that the electric blanket would use more power than the furnace typically. A pair of golf cart batteries generally should easily power the furnace (as needed) for one night and still have a decent charge left in the morning. Yes I have and just checked the numbers to verify. Furnace demands 10 Amps when running while the blanket/inverter is at 7 Amps. The big unknown is at a given air temp what will be the hourly cycle time of each? Either way once the temps hit freezing not running the furnace is no longer an option due to potential wet bay freezing. My one Cracker Barrel parking lot overnight boondock with low temps was in the mid to low 50's. With the electric blanket we were very comfortable and didn't need the furnace. If I recall my volt numbers started out at 12.6VDC and woke up with 12.2VDC or so after a 6 hour run time. Personally if temps dip into the low 40's or 30's I'm giving serious consideration to running the generator (if allowed) with space heaters to supplement the furnace. Below freezing I'm in a campsite with hookups. I prefer a cool bedroom at night but that's just too cold for me.
Dale.Traveling 01/16/17 09:17am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Boondockin - will my coach battery go dead

My suggestion won't help much tonight but just keep it in mind for the future. I've run an electric blanket off an invertor with the coach thermostat set very low and had plenty of power in the two GC2 batteries I have in the morning. For this situation I would run the generator and use the two space heaters I keep in the coach.
Dale.Traveling 01/15/17 08:01pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: No power from shore or generator, ok on inverter, need help

Keep a close eye on you 12VDC levels until you can get a bigger convertor/charger. 20 amps is very light for a Class A. My gas coach has an 60 amp unit to give you an idea of what might be needed. 12VDC is the life power of a coach. Lose it and no HVAC, fridge, water pump, jacks, slides and such. If your coach is configured to supply alternator DC power to the house you could start the engine to recharge if the charger has trouble keeping up.
Dale.Traveling 01/12/17 05:29pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Tow car hookup by single person

Connect myself all the time. Hardest part is lining up the approach centering the car to the coach and stopping close enough but not too close to connect the bar. I think if I had help I would probably miss a step. Tow a 2005 Honda CR-V with a Blue Ox base plate connected to a Ready Brute Elite towbar.
Dale.Traveling 01/11/17 05:12pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: No power from shore or generator, ok on inverter, need help

Agree that the transfer switch is doing what it is suppose to and with the details of the last post and the model invertor you have, Xantrex Freedom 458, I'm thinking your problem is with it. My guess it is not sensing power in and switching over or something else. To figure out what's going on with the invertor CLICK HERE for a PDF from Xantrex. Jump to page 31 for troubleshooting based on the status of the LEDs. Also can you post which remote panel you have?
Dale.Traveling 01/10/17 03:08pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: No power from shore or generator, ok on inverter, need help

CLICK HERE for a PDF manual of the transfer switch. The transfer switch has two relays, one to transfer the neutral and one to transfer the power. De-energized state is shore power while energized is power from the generator. In other words as soon as you plug in to shore power the coach will be powered up with nothing else happening. Switching of the relays occur for the generator Beyond the transfer switch the other common point is the two 50 amp breakers in the coach. For the OP - first, with the shore power unplugged and the breaker(s) on the generator tripped, do a visual inspection of both the transfer switch and breaker panel. Anything burned is not good and will need further attention. Check all the wire hold down hardware in both. Give ever screw a clockwise twist to ensure all are tight. Next take a look at the relay contacts. Hopefully the relays are open so you can see the contacts. If they look burns you can clean them up with 400 or so grit paper. Next, again if the relays are open check the movement between contacts. Should have positive spring tension and free movement between the de-energized and energized positions. With power still off and if you have a meter you can check the shore to panel connection either at the relays or the bus bar. Use the PDF in the link above to check resistance thru the transfer switch. You should see a short. Power cord Hot 1 should be a short to Panel Hot 1. Same with Hot 2, Neutral and ground. Not sure what else to advise checking. With the short time line probably the best option is to find a mobile RV tech. Replacing the transfer switch isn't difficult and should only take about an hour maybe two if it's location is less than fully accessable.
Dale.Traveling 01/10/17 11:21am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Furnace won't light

Unfortunately you're going to have to start removing panels then somehow remove the furnace to get to the inner works to find the problem. Normally there should be a louvered panel or something similar for supply or return air that can be removed. Many times the panels are held in place with screws or pin nails. Based on the description I suspect you have a Suburban Furnace that looks something like this - http://www.factoryrvsurplus.com/gallery/product_1348/Pictures_of_products_from_disk_139.jpg Without knowing the specific model can't give much concerning procedures beyond what others have posted.
Dale.Traveling 01/09/17 02:22pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: four winds hurricane Owners thread

IRV2.com has a Thor thread where Hurricane owers post particulars for Hurricanes while RV.net is a bit more general in nature.
Dale.Traveling 01/09/17 02:06pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Play in steering wheel

Get under the MH and have someone rock the steering wheel back and forth gently. You should be able to see any lost motion in the linkages.I'll second that.
Dale.Traveling 01/08/17 05:40pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Atwood Furnace Lockout

Evidently I was not clear. Moved the motorhome to new location, not the furnace. The furnace will eventually try and start, but will not light,I.e., "igntion lockout".I see said the blind man. As enblethen recommended check the igniter and burner. Furnace works just like the water heater if it doesn't ignite after a few tries it goes into a lock out. Unfortunately they don't include a switch to reset. Also try AtWood Service Manual for additional info.
Dale.Traveling 01/08/17 04:55pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Atwood Furnace Lockout

Sounds like a heat exchanger over temp. With the new location were you able to use the same amount of ducting to the coach living area? The fault should clear after the sensor cools down but if not find the 12VDC fuse that powers the furnace for controller reset.
Dale.Traveling 01/08/17 03:51pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Heat will go out after hours of use

Don't overlook 12VDC power. All the items mentioned, water heater, thermostat, furnace and fridge use 12VDC for the controllers. The furnace also needs it for the blower. If you're plugged into shore power you might not notice unless you happen to turn on a ceiling light. A second potential trouble maker(s) are the CO detector and propane detector. Depending on your coach you could have an automatic shut off valve on the propane line that either of both control. To add an additional twist both are 12VDC powered and I don't know how they would react if power is less than optimum.
Dale.Traveling 01/08/17 11:10am Class A Motorhomes
RE: What's the best braking system for a Class A?

"Best"?? Well, considering that none of them have been tested by anybody (That's right, no "Good Housekeeping Seal of Approval", no CR tests, no tests by any independent laboratory, nothing AFAIK), the only evidence anybody can give is purely anecdotal ("It has worked for me!" or "No, I had nothing but trouble with that thing!"). But, If I was going to buy one, it would be the Ready Brute towbar/surge brake combination or the Ready Brake system without the towbar. Simple, mechanical (no failure prone electronics), very few bad reports, easy to adjust and maintain, install it and forget it. The ONLY way to go, IMO.Don't always agree with Mowermech but this time he's pretty much dead on. When the day came that I needed to tow the daily driver my budget was limited and I wanted the peace of mind of a braking system. A Ready Brake Brute tow bar with the integrated surge brake was a simple solution at a much lower cost. No electronics that needed power, no vacuum pumps or air pressure required for proper operation. Six camping seasons and a second tow car later still going strong with no failures of any kind.
Dale.Traveling 01/03/17 04:24am Dinghy Towing
RE: House batteries

Depends. Is the coach permanently parked? Not just staying in one spot for a long time but as in the next time it moves will be connected to a tow truck. If this is the situation then no a battery really isn't needed as long as the AC to DC convertor is correctly sized to supply power to systems the are necessary for stationary coach operation (fridge, HVAC, water heater and such). Not sure what will happen having an invertor in the mix. Adds an unknown into the exercise. Where you might get into trouble is high load systems such as the jacks, room slides or the generator starting if you even need to use there features. Starting surge of these systems could overload the converter and either shorten it's life or blow high amp fuses that you probably won't have a spare on hand at the time. Personally I would keep a battery in place even a small 12V starting battery.
Dale.Traveling 12/29/16 08:51am Class A Motorhomes
RE: hydraulic jacks quest.

The jack system on my coach (Quadra Big Foot) is power up/down so have I a bit of knowledge on how the system operates. I'm incline to think the retract solenoid is the problem. If the jack internal seals were failing I would expect the problem to also show up when parked and the coach weight on the jack. Same if the extend solenoid was failing, settling with coach weight. If you want to try swapping a solenoid to confirm before buying one understand that there could be fluid pressure in the valve block even with the system fully retracted and off. Extending the jacks a bit might reduce the pressure but still work slowly when loosing the solenoid to the point of allowing the pressure to bleed off. Have a catch pan close by will help keep the mess off the driveway and have fresh oil to top the system off.
Dale.Traveling 12/29/16 08:19am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Gotta love Mexico...

$80/5 hours/2 guys = $8/hour for hard labor with zero benefits. Think that is how unions came into existence. Considering the cost of living and the average per capita income of the area those two enterprising self employed small businessmen are actually doing quite well.
Dale.Traveling 12/27/16 04:48am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Bunk over Cab - realities

The feature has helped make the class A's a bit more family friendly regarding sleeping arrangements. Common class A saying, entertainment for 6, dinner for 4, sleeping for 2, was pretty much correct other than the sofa or bunk models. Pop up towables had more matress sqft than a class A. There are even a few DP models with the bunk. If you see a newer DP with the door someplace than in front of the front wheel it probably, but not always, has the drop down bunk. For prospective owners take into consideration that there could be weight limitations of the bunk. Makes a bed for a couple of kids but two adults might be pushing it's limits.
Dale.Traveling 12/22/16 04:46am Class A Motorhomes
RE: What do I flat tow?

Unless you're looking to buy new I would stick with a Honda. I also towing a CRV which doubles as the daily driver for the Navigator. Our backup is an Accord Coupe. Size, weight, reliability and ownership costs make for a well balanced tow vehicle.
Dale.Traveling 12/22/16 04:34am Class A Motorhomes
Sort by:    Search within results:
Page of 16  
Next


New posts No new posts
Closed, new posts Closed, no new posts
Moved, new posts Moved, no new posts

Adjust text size:

© 2017 CWI, Inc. © 2017 Good Sam Enterprises, LLC. All Rights Reserved. | Terms of Use | PRIVACY POLICY | YOUR PRIVACY RIGHTS