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 > Your search for posts made by 'Dale.Traveling' found 152 matches.

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  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: Poopy Paper Problem

Replace the Sears and Roebuck catalog with single ply TP and instruct the other two adults to hold the flush open to a five-one thousand count.
Dale.Traveling 11/22/17 04:33pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: refrigerator beeps when bathroom lights are turned on

check your batteryConcur. Reads like you converter/charger might have decided it's had enough and the batteries are at their limit. Being plugged into shore power if you have anything less than say 12.8 VDC then the charger/converter needs to be looked at.
Dale.Traveling 11/22/17 04:29pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Hydraulic Leveler Removal

It's doable but you'll have to somehow disable the solenoid(s) for the one jack or seal it in such a way as to hold at least 3000 psi. The jacks may have independent feeds but are normally controlled in pairs. I used to do the bottle jack and jack stand shuffle. Lasted a year before I decided I liked relaxing at the camp site rather than crawling under the coach.
Dale.Traveling 11/17/17 02:36pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: OEM tpms on class A's?

The Feds haven't mandated sensors on heavy consumer vehicles, yet. External after market sensors with a remote unit on the dash has workout fine for me over the past couple of years.
Dale.Traveling 11/15/17 11:00am Class A Motorhomes
RE: 2015 thor hurricane no start

Have you checked the chassis battery disconnect? If the circuit is open if will act as if the battery is completely dead. I suspect since you were able to jump the starter solenoid and get the engine running the alternator would power the engine but no telling if you'll have correct power distribution for system monitoring or even correct startup sequence for the various powertrain processors which could cause the warning and caution indicators. A quick check would be the entry steps which are powered from the chassis battery. If they extend or retract then disregard my idea. Second place to check would be the high current fuse panel and relay panel which is on the engine firewall above the air filter box. There are two, a big one on top is fuses and a smaller one below is relays. A bit of a long short but simple enough to open and inspect. Third would be to clean the battery terminals and any grounds to the chassis around the engine area. Even if they look OK pull them and hit the terminations and whatever they are attached to with a wire brush or sandpaper. There should also be a grounding wire between the engine block and transmission to the chassis that you should clean also. Fourth get a good strong flashlight and start looking around for possible rodent damage or anything that doesn't look right such as a loose connector or a wire end just hanging in the air. Pull the engine cover and check the top of the engine. Might in that gray area of overlap between Ford and Thor. Take the coach to Ford and they find the problem is the disconnect they might hand you a bill since that would not be covered by the Ford warranty. Just be aware of such.
Dale.Traveling 11/09/17 04:29am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Re sealing roof with Dicor

As John&Joey posted water cleaning will be fine. The idea is to remove dirt and grime. No need for a chemical primer or such. Keep an eye on just how much sealant is on the roof. "The bigger the glob the better the job" long range plan might not be optimal in the long run. At some point you'll need to consider getting the old stuff scrapped off and either tape the seals and be done or restart the process.
Dale.Traveling 11/05/17 10:23am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Winnebago Vista handling

Do the low or no cost checks first. Is the tire inflation set to the weight of the coach? Pressure shouldn't be higher than what is listed on DOT sticker. I ran my pressures up once playing around and at 10 or so PSI over I couldn't hold lane position. Also as part of the weight check you want to balance as much as possible front/rear weights. Limited front axle weight may reduce steering authority. Have the alignment check, in particular the tow set up. Have the tech set the tow as far IN as possible but stay within the Ford specs. If the front end is on the edge of tow out the steering can get twitchy and want a high degree of attention. The cheap handling fix (CHF) will help, cost nothing but time. A Safe-T-Plus or such may help but the problem is the rear end and as such you'll be chasing a symptom not the problem. A rear track bar at the end of the cost range will tame tail pust from passing trucks and weather. My coach is 32' built on a 18K lbs GVWR, 190" wheelbase chassis. 1/3 of the house is behind the rear axle along with all my liquid loading and my largest storage area. Wind push was a factor to the extent that I had to input as much as 45 deg of steering offset once to maintain a straight line in heavy sustained winds. CHP helped but the addition of a rear trac bar pretty much tamed the coach. Wind push is still there but hardly noticeable. The dynamics are too much to eliminate completely but a trac bar really make any movement very manageable.
Dale.Traveling 11/05/17 09:54am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Fuel line for generator

Drop the tank (it's actually easier than you think) and replace the entire length. Converting the generator might cost more than paying someone to drop the tank. Another option would be to cut a hole in the floor over the tank that will allow access to the fuel line. Just measure twist or maybe four times to get the drill point correct. Not a lot of land marks above and below the floor to measure off of.
Dale.Traveling 11/03/17 04:55pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Refrigerator Help Wanted

If the exterior fans had stopped wouldn't the cooling unit still work by natural convection? There are a lot of rigs, pop-ups to 40' class A's, without fans to circulate air that work. Might see higher internal temps but not a total loss of cooling. Almost sounds like like a partial blockage or crystallization problem in the piping which is what killed my fridge this summer. Gave every indication that it was working but the fridge section never cooled and the freezer only slight temperature drop. Fridge Failure Info
Dale.Traveling 11/03/17 05:11am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Tow Bars

Gas coach pulling a 2005 CRV with a Ready Brake Elite. No problems during downhill descents in low gear. The only time I see an indication of CRV brake activity is when I apply the coach brakes.
Dale.Traveling 10/31/17 03:10pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Safest route to bar harbor maine

Did the reverse this past summer from Bar Harbor to south eastern Virginia in three days of driving. Push on during day 3 to get home. I64 west to I95 north in Richmond. Jumped over to US17 north in Fredericksburg. Picked I66 west in Marshall Va the over to I81 north in Middletown Virginia. Stayed on I81 north all the way to Scranton Pennsylvania when we switch over to I84 east. Spent the night in a CG outside of Port Jervis New York. Next day headed out back on I84 east across New York and Connecticut and switch over to I90 east in south central Massachusetts for a couple of miles before switching over to I495 north to avoid Boston. Stayed at a Massachusetts state park on the ocean north of Boston for a couple of days. Headed back north on I95 thru New Hampshire and into Maine before switch over to I295 north thru Portland Maine. Joined back up to I95 north south of Augusta Maine and continued on to I395 south of Bangor then on to US1A which heads east. Just south east of Ellsworth Maine switched over to Maine 3 which will drop you into downtown Bar Harbor. More or less a speed and moderate toll route. Somewhat schematic but it was the tail of two weeks on the road so getting home was the primary objective. 501 miles day 1, 273 miles day 2 and 245 miles day 3. Traffic was light with nothing worth writing home about. Google Map of my route.
Dale.Traveling 10/30/17 02:58pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: 2006 Four Winds Hurricane Dash wiring

Yes both are supplied by the chassis battery via the battery control center (BCC). It's mounted on the firewall above and to the left of the engine air cleaner. Rewiring is certainly possible by abandoning the original circuit and finding a free switched circuit. Probably the easiest way to power down would be to just enable the chassis battery disconnect. Just beware that the door steps are also powered by the chassis battery so the step out of the coach might be a bigger drop then expected if the disconnect is set.
Dale.Traveling 10/24/17 08:26am Class A Motorhomes
RE: No power to ac thermostat

Normally power for the thermostat comes from the furnace which is only powered by 12VDC as compared to the A/C's are 120VAC primary power but controlled via the thermostat and 12VDC. Are other DC power appliances working? Fridge, ceiling lights, water pump, water heater? I think you might be confusing 'controller' with 'converter'. The converter takes 120VAC and makes 12VDC to power the coach and keep the batteries charged. If it was recently replaced you could have a problem associated with it and maybe dead batteries. Not unusual to blow the fuses or pop the circuit breakers on a converter when connecting to the coach DC power lines. It will look like its work but it's not.
Dale.Traveling 10/24/17 08:00am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Roof maitenance

Inspect it regularly and get to know what it looks like so you'll notice changes. Be proactive regarding renewing sealant or consider taping all the seams. If you want to clean it bucket and brush with mild dish soap. Void power sprayers and strong cleaners. Annual smoke testing might be a bit more then your RV budget can afford but the test results will disclose any leaks not only in the roof but everywhere in particular the sidewalls around the windows and such. If the coach is new to you I would consider it.
Dale.Traveling 10/24/17 07:48am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Most efficient house batteries

best battery for the $$ bar none are the 235AH Us battery 6 volters they have a 3 year warrenty (best in the business) and last 5-7 yearsHate to burst your bubble but the limited liability warranty is only 12 months from the date code on the terminals which might not even be date of purchase. http://usbattery.com/info-center/warranty/ Good batteries but the warranty isn't any better than my Sam's Club $89 Duracell GC2's have been supporting my outings with no problems for the past three years.
Dale.Traveling 10/23/17 03:52pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Newer Ford F53 and 6R140

Chassis model year 2016 while the five speed arrived in model year 2006. But be warned a 2016 coach can be built on a 2015 chassis. Check the Ford incomplete vehicle sticker VIN if having a six speed is a must have.
Dale.Traveling 10/23/17 05:05am Class A Motorhomes
RE: What's your Suggested yearly Maintenance/Repair fund/budget?

Gas $250 a month, diesel I would take Executive's number at $500. An average year you probably won't need that much but there are a few high cost items that will need replacing after several years of use. Tire, batteries first come to mind and there are some mileage or time based power train service needs that can be expensive. If you're able to do routine maintenance on both the chassis or house you will save a lot on the labor cost of a service center. Regarding the unexpected break down emergencies, well if the coach is a keeper and you blow a hole in the engine block of a diesel the bill can have a lot of zero's. Maybe easy access to $5k for the more usual unexpected problems would be a reasonably safe number.
Dale.Traveling 10/17/17 05:57pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Roof re-caulking

I acquired my 2006 Hurricane (also a Thor product) used in 2011 and pretty much all the roof seals had degraded and needed attention. Six hours of labor is about right but the labor rate at potentially $150 an hours is a bit high even for CA. You could certainly add additional sealant if you don't mind the "bigger the glob the better the job" look. Removing old and resealing isn't difficult and there are Youtube videos which will help show a few tricks to make the job a bit easier. Lot easier then sealing a bathroom shower considering it doesn't have to look perfect just has to be weather tight. If you plan to attempt two words of caution NO RTV. Don't ask why not since this post is already getting long just NO. I'm also a fan of Eternabond tape. The stuff is expensive at getting close to $1 a foot but once installed the tape will probably out last everything under it.
Dale.Traveling 10/17/17 05:24pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Battery/ charging question

Based on the volts gained with the engine running the charger has failed and can no longer produce enough DC power to meet the demands of both the coach systems and keeping an adequate battery charge. Probably the original that was installed when the coach was built. Replace it with a modern multi stage charger. I'm a bit partial to Progressive Dynamic PD9200 Series chargers. And considering the coach is a recent acquisition having the 6VDC batteries checked out at the local auto parts shop wouldn't hurt. Regarding what to replace the batteries if necessary? Depends a bit on how the OP plans to use the coach. Lots of back country off the grid away from it out camping, the biggest, as many as you can fit and afford 6VDC will be a good start. Every time out staying at campgrounds with full services then a single marine 12VDC will work. Split the difference and stay with two golf cart 6VDC.
Dale.Traveling 10/10/17 07:56pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: The Continuing maintenance saga

The other amazing part, beside the customer service from Newmar, is you can still get a body part for a 17 year old coach.
Dale.Traveling 09/29/17 04:15am Class A Motorhomes
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