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 > Your search for posts made by 'Daveinet' found 515 matches.

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RE: Blown Engine, 8.1l

Some that own Class C RV's argue that's previsely why they own a C, anyone who can work on an "E" series van (for Fords) can fix a Class C. I've heard that, too, but I don't understand it. There's nothing mystical about a gas engine installed in a truck chassis versus a van chassis engine- or transmission-wise. Mechanically they're the same. Accessibility to normally hard-to-reach stuff is MUCH better on a Class A gasser versus a van chassis.Depends, While that may be true for some stuff, a van, the engine comes out the front. In a class A, its anyone's guess, and often comes out the bottom. You also have the problem where the house manufacturers move stuff, so what you have is unpredictable. Many class Cs are lighter and not as tall, so you can put them on an automotive lift. A class A needs a much bigger lift.
Daveinet 09/16/14 06:41am Class A Motorhomes
RE: How much weight do you tow? and with how much motor?

I tow 4600 lbs with a gasser. I get slowed down to about 80 mph up a 6% grade. I'm running somewhere between 420 and 440 HP. In you original post you stated both engines you were looking at were 300 HP. Assuming optimum gearing, both engines are going to pull your 6% grade at the same speed, regardless of their torque rating. HP always tells you how fast you will go up a grade. Torque will tell you how often it will downshift on smaller grades. When comparing your gasser to those DPs, assuming limited altitude, those 300 hp DPs are going to be slower than your gasser on steep grades. The only advantage is the DP does not loose power at higher altitudes. If you want more power, then you have to buy more power. I'm betting 450 hp or more is much more likely to satisfy.
Daveinet 09/13/14 02:14pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: 2015 Winnebago Forza 34T, 340 HP enough?

The only improvement you have made is the addition of the turbo which is able to compensate for the high altitude. At high altitudes, your DP will perform like your gasser did at low altitudes. So if you gasser was able to handle the grades in low altitude, then you DP would be able to handle the same % grades at any altitude. If you were unhappy with your gasser at low altitude, then you will be unhappy with your DP at any altitude.
Daveinet 09/13/14 02:12pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: How close is too close

The routing of lines may very or even be modified by the coach manufacturer, so it is impossible to predict what shielding is necessary. Thorley sold me a shield when I put my headers on. BTW: the reason to install headers over "perfectly good" OEM design is because the OEM design runs too hot and puts excessive stress on the engine. A properly designed header and exhaust will allow the engine to run substantially cooler than OEM.
Daveinet 09/12/14 04:25pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: How close is too close

I've always had mixed feelings about the concept of wrapping things to protect from heat, especially in the case where the fluid is not moving. A wrap will only slow the transfer of heat, not dissipate it. OK, so it buys you time on a long grade, but how much time do you need. I would much rather see a heat shield. If the shield is big enough, areas of the shield will be away from the header and be able to dissipate the heat away. I would try to pick up some aluminum sheeting, as it is easy to bend and has good heat transfer characteristics. Its also less likely to rust.
Daveinet 09/12/14 11:40am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Blowout, bad and good luck

One comment about old tires. We really don't know why the tire let go, so there are a lot of assumptions made. Steel belted tires normally fail due to tread separation. On the 3 motorhome tires that I have had blow, all of them gave a small warning before they let loose. The tread began to separate, which caused a small amount of vibration first. The vibration went from noticeable to really bad just before the tire let go. It would useful to know if it was tread separation and if there was a warning vibration first.
Daveinet 09/10/14 12:44pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Blowout, bad and good luck

It was also tricky getting the MH straightened out without losing control-------------it would have been very easy to over-correct.There is a natural reaction to react quickly to any change of motion when you are driving. Many years ago, I had a Jeep that would change lanes every time you hit a bump. It tought me to just lock the steering wheel position until the vehicle settled down, which prevented that natural reaction to over correct. Same applies to an RV. Any time something bad happens, one's first reaction should be to freeze your steering wheel position until the rocking motion subsides. Then make a small correction to put the coach where it needs to be. It takes some mental effort to force one's self to think that way, but that is the only way to prevent over correction. Glad it all worked out. You have bragging rights.
Daveinet 09/10/14 06:45am Class A Motorhomes
RE: cost of propane

Is there any farm coops?? That is one alternative source I have used. Many of your rental shops sell propane, but they are usually the most expensive. Look up your local distributor that fills home propane tanks, that should be the cheapest. Around here, Menards started selling propane for RVs. That has been the cheapest anywhere. They are trying to build an infrastructure for propane fueled vehicles. They have different prices based on use. The operator just punches into the computer what it is for, and the amount is calculated at the pump.
Daveinet 09/08/14 06:34pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Mercedes Benz RV - Boondocking - I Want One!!!!!

Interesting videos. I didn't realize the Ford was so bad. I always thought their frame was stiffer than GM. When you go off road though, you normally release the torsion bar, that way the axle will articulate and the tires stay in contact with the ground, so they can get traction.
Daveinet 09/07/14 07:24am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Mercedes Benz RV - Boondocking - I Want One!!!!!

Don't know if it is an optical illusion, but the box looks twisted compared to the cab. While there are some places it could go, I would fear it being too top heavy and prone to roll. Ends up being too much ground clearance. No illusion part of the independent off road suspension, the best of the off road RV s have this type of Cab separation......all the weight is LOW, not easy to flip at all... Ok, I'm sorry, I have to correct you on this one. Unimog is a solid portal axle, not independent suspension. The axles are raised up above wheel center line for greater ground clearance. That means the frame height is significantly higher, putting the engine higher, as well as the steel box. A quick search on Youtube shows a an empty bed bouncing around with no frame twist between the bed and the cab. Another video shows with a weighted bed and significant twist of the frame. Normally when you go off road, you want the articulation in the axles, not the frame.
Daveinet 09/06/14 09:56am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Mercedes Benz RV - Boondocking - I Want One!!!!!

Don't know if it is an optical illusion, but the box looks twisted compared to the cab. While there are some places it could go, I would fear it being too top heavy and prone to roll. Ends up being too much ground clearance.
Daveinet 09/05/14 07:36pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Staying at Walmarts and such

.... and it helps the local economy.Someone thinks RVers do not shop at Wal-Mart. The typical overnighter spends much more money at Wal-mart for a nights stay, than they would ever spend at a campground.
Daveinet 09/05/14 11:24am Class A Motorhomes
RE: disadvantage of having MoHo parked in driveway.

...but stealing gasoline is hardly a killing offense.If it was, no one would be stealing gasoline.
Daveinet 09/04/14 05:49pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: disadvantage of having MoHo parked in driveway.

Put a TV set on a timer and turn up the volume just a little. Creates a greater impression that someone is home.My dad told me about friend he knew who always kept the radio on inside the house and left the doors unlocked. He had a lot of very valuable stuff in the house and no one ever bothered it.
Daveinet 09/03/14 04:42pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Mini Cooper automatic

BTW: The Fiat does not even belong in the same sentence as a Mini. We own a clubby, and rented a Fiat, while the Mini was in the shop. The driving experience is not in the same category.
Daveinet 09/03/14 11:08am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Mini Cooper automatic

I had a dealer tell me that if you tow it on a dolly, you take a chance of breaking the rear suspension because the angle of attack is wrong. They also said it shifts more weight on the rear end. I have read of broken suspension, but not from towing. Since then I talked to a different dealer that said towing on a dolly was fine.
Daveinet 09/03/14 06:15am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Class A Towing capacity

Except for one problem. Once I modify a vehicle, I have taken the responsibility for rating it because it is my modification. Not really. You re not authorized to rate anything. The ratings are set by the manufacturer and certified on the Federal Weight Certification. Sorry... you simply are not qualified nor do you have enough liability insurance. I would love to watch you try that on a Scale Master or Inspection Officer. Try telling them you modified the vehicle and it is all good. That would get a good laugh after they put the red tag on the vehicle. Safe travels.I assume you have never heard of custom vehicles, or street rods. When they go for a title, they do not ask the builder's qualifications or certifications. It goes through an inspection, but the level of inspection does not cover details of load ratings and the like. Nothing prevents me from building a trailer either. Tons of DIY stuff out there. They are titled as home built. No one looks at the frame rating and engineering aspect.
Daveinet 08/29/14 11:31am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Class A Towing capacity

Except for one problem. Once I modify a vehicle, I have taken the responsibility for rating it because it is my modification.
Daveinet 08/29/14 07:04am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Class A Towing capacity

Dave, As I have said, I have been in this business for 40 years. NOTHING you have said is related to the issue of gross capacities. Are these engineering specifications that are used in developing a gross capacity? Maybe. As I have said before... I do know that many things are taken into consideration by engineering (which I never claimed to be one) in the development of the gross capacities. Now, to use your term, lets don't be "silly," and ever think that one pound over any gross capacity is going to make a difference. However, I believe that we both know that taking any component to its maximum stress point constantly will shorten its life span....I guess I'm not sure how the engineering basis for developing gross capacities has "nothing" to do with gross capacities. Does 2 lbs over the limit matter? Does 5 lbs or 10 or 50, or 100, or 500? At what point do you hit the "wall"? The point is that it is not a wall. From a regulatory stand point it might be, but from an engineering standpoint, its not. It is as the stress factors rise, longevity goes down. Handling may or may not come into play. How bad is it? Something else that is significant is that most motorhomes are not really using dedicated motorhome chassis parts. They pick and choose truck parts that fit the need. So where in a commercial vehicle, most design limitations all hit at once - meaning that everything is sized for a specific capacity. In an RV chassis, its a hodgepodge of parts, which means you have some parts that are way over sized for the job, and some that just barely meet the requirement. They just don't build enough motorhome chassis to warrant sizing all components to just make the minimum. A motorhome is a totally different animal than a commercial truck.
Daveinet 08/28/14 11:26pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Class A Towing capacity

Lbligh, I am curious to know what the criteria is for any of the particular load limits? Is it a wear limit? Is it a stress limit, where if exceeded, it will immediately have catastrophic failure? A perfect example would be my front differential. It is a Dana 70. If you look at the specs, it gives 2 numbers. One is a continuous operation and the other is a peak limit. Basically what those numbers mean is that the differential is expected to last X amount of miles if a continuous load of 2500 ft-lbs. It is rated for a peak torque load of 7000 ft-lbs. Basically if you exceed the peak torque, you will break teeth. That means you can exceed the continuous load rating and not break anything, but you will shorten the life. So if you use this axle in a towing situation, the tow rating will be based on the expected average torque load, because they want to get decent wear. So if you exceed the tow rating, what happens? NOTHING, except you will probably slightly shorten the life of the differential. So in this single example of one component, in this specific case, exceeding the tow rating is not catastrophic. That is what tow rating are. If you have a 5000 lbs tow rating, and you tow 5001 lbs, does that mean you are taking a serious chance at causing a problem? Lets not be silly. Ratings are based on worse case scenario. IF you are more cautious about how you treat the vehicle, you can compensate for the limits of a rating up to a point.
Daveinet 08/28/14 06:47pm Class A Motorhomes
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