Missing from the discussion is a Revcon, particularly if you have been disappointed with the build quality of other units. Its really in a different class construction wise. My '83 cost around $120,000 back in '83 when it was new. The interior is Formica laminate over solid wood frame. The cabinet doors are hollow with honeycomb support. Super light weight, but lasts forever. Most interiors cabinets look like the day they came out of the showroom. The shell in stretchform aircraft aluminum over aluminum frame. Interior walls are also aluminum and coated with a decorative plastic. Makes for a very cleanable surface that won't rot and lasts forever.
If you like working on stuff, I would suggest this is the motorhome for you. That may sound bad, but seriously, it has been a dream to work on. The guy who designed it was a former engineer who made his name in CAN-AM racing. (wrote the book on aerodynamic downforce with the T22) The drivetrain is custom, but well laid out and easy to get to. So many things are just logical and do not need to be re-engineered to make them right. About the only weakness is the front differential. The Dana 70 flexes under load because it is running in reverse. This creates extra wear on the carrier, which eventually gives out. There is a solution by Carl Jantz (the guy on Alaskan Offroad Warriors - History Channel) I had him rebuild mine, and so far, I've not been able to break it. Stock engine is a 454 mated to a TH400 trans. There are many of us that have dropped 502s in them, not because the 454 was weak, but because we like to drive fast. The Revcon has a very low center of gravity and is by far the best handling motorhome ever built. I typically cruise at 5 mph over, which out west means 80 mph. The is one finger driving, towing my Grand Cherokee. I do not like to slow down on grades.
the original Revcon was built on the Toronado front end (that is where GM got the idea. ) It was lighter than the GMC, so it did not put the wear on the drivetrain. Starting in ~1980 they used a custom drivetrain based on the 454 and used a modified transfercase to run the driveshaft forward. In 1985, they widened the chassis, which also added some weight, but they added width does give a nicer feel. Storage space and ameneties are very good for the time period. I always remember someone her stated they traded their 33 foot Revcon on a 37 foot basement "buss chassis" Allegro. They stated they has a very hard time fitting everything into the Allegro.
A similar thing happens sometimes in Dodge trucks.
It happens when a torque converter is not unlocking. When that happens and the computer senses the eng is dropping below specified RPM's, it adds fuel to the eng to keep the revs up. Since the eng is still mechanically coupled to the trans it tries to accelerate.Not a diesel guy but this makes more sense than anything else. Computer would not through a code because it does not recognize the problem, but is just trying to keep the RPM above a certain minimum. Next time it happens, just put it in neutral. The RPM will probably be normal. It the engine does not continue to rev, then you know for sure that is the problem. If the engine does rev, then you have a different problem.
Hopefully it is not an oil leak in the turbo, or if it starts leaking badly, you will not be able to shut it off
I find many other things more anoying, like my wife
They are one of the loudest sounds on the road. Not as bad as train horns, but pretty close.Was it your intention for these 2 posts to be consecutive?
If your engine brake is not loud, how would they prove you were using it? If you are not making excessive noise, ignore the sign, as you are obeying the intent of the law, and you would never get caught anyway.
Really it depends a lot on how far up the chain you want to go. You can look at a midline diesel, such as a Neumar, Allegro, or Winnie and while they are solid units, its a whole different ball game to go back a few years older yet and look at something like a Foretravel. Right around year 2000, you see them with slideouts. Price wise, you would need to do some tough negotiation to get below 100K, but if you are patient, you should be able to get one.
How about something like this:
No RV manufacturer custom builds their filler tubes. They are buying it somewhere, you just need to figure out where. Searching the custom speed shops may also turn up what ever the original tube was.
You can also try Ebay:
If you think that, because of the mass of your vehicle, you're going to come to a gentle stop in the event of an accident, you're sadly mistaken. If you're crash at any rate of speed, you're going to be violently thrown if yours not restrained. Have you ever talked with anyone who has been in an accident in an RV? I have. In both cases that I know of, passengers inside the motorhome that were unbelted received NO INJURIES. One of those accidents was a head on, at ~60 mph. The second was at 40. In both cases, the occupants of the crashed car/suv died. (occupants that died were belted in) So if a car and an RV are in an accident, one is much safer unbelted in the RV than belted in the car.
We have had a routine of packing up the night before and sleeping in the motorhome in our drive. When I wake up in the morning, I slip into the driver's seat while still in my PJs and we take off. The family wakes up at their leisure, takes their showers, and eats breakfast. Once they are done, DW drives, I hop in the shower, get ready and eat breakfast. We arrive at our destination all rested from a good nights sleep, rather than rushing after work on a Friday night, and then driving into the very late night hours.
Early morning travel is much safer than late night travel. Much less traffic, and I am much more alert.
BTW: There are no seat belts in any area other than the front 2 seats, so no one who rides in the back is belted.
Don, you are talking about a DP which already has track bars due to air suspension. The OP has a gasser which has leaf springs, so a completely different chassis design, so one could not really compare the results with any expectation of similar results.
Any kind of steering damper just masks the problems. A damper type device should be the very last choice in resolving handling issues. Start with proper air pressure, front end alignment, and good shocks. Next on the list and the most probable solution for nearly all gas coaches is a trac bar, front and rear, assuming you have a solid axle in the front. Normally trac bars solve most handling issues, because it actually corrects a design weakness of solid axles. Basically, your axle can move side to side, relative to the frame. This results in a delayed response to steering input. The delay means one is prone to over correct, and induce sway and loss of control.
I have a Rearview Safety camera and monitor setup. It has worked well for the 2 years I have had it. No problems with moister. The only complaint I have is the IR lighting reflects off the class and tends to washout the picture, so the night vision does not work well, except in traffic, where the car headlights light things up.
If all it is is moister and it is not under warrenty, I would pull the camera apart, let it dry out, wipe down the glass and reseal it with RTV. The moister is probably causing the IR leds to reflect badly into the camera. I would bet the camera is actually OK. Once its dry, test it out before you put it back together.
That's just ONE of the problems of HD batteries in parallel, a cell shorts(***) in one, the good, FULLY CHARGED parallel battery rapidly discharges into the ~10 volt HD battery.
*** Very common lead-acid battery failure mode.X2. That finally happened to me last year. Funny thing was, I was about 15 feet away when it happened. When the coach is parked, I rarely am on the battery side of the coach, but just happened to be working on a tire on that side at the time. Just about gave me a heart attack.
2 batteries in parallel, if one battery has a cell that shorts, there is a lot of current and a lot of heat. Its only a matter of time before it goes poof.
Tom Raper has a very long history for poor customer response/satisfaction. Not much posted here recently, but go back about 5 years or more and you would find a lot a negative feedback on RVnet regarding Tom Raper.
The gasser grade brake does more than just downshift. It also locks the torque converter, so the engine speed is more directly coupled to the trans. They also completely shut off the fuel, which increase the engine load further. Is it as effective as a exhaust brake? No, but it is adequate.
Have you put a volt meter on the steering column? Confirmed it is going hot when you hit the start? When trouble shooting, you can not jump around. You have to start at the ignition switch and follow the voltage with a meter. There are no shortcuts.
Many of your brand name tire stores are a franchise, so they can buy tires anywhere. Some are company stores and some are not. Firestone brand name stores will price match, so you can get prices form the franchise store and buy the tires from a company owned store.
And it is not always the Chinese, I mean counterfeiters have been around in many areas. The problem is when it is a TIRE, that is a safety issue.X2 Seems odd the the NHTSA only cares about meeting a minimum spec, however when you purchase a certain tire brand, there is an expectation of performance. When that performance is not met, it could very well be catastrophic.
It also seems odd that the dealer was seemingly able to weasel out of being held responsible. The dealer chose to make the purchase a questionable product, but hid that from the customer. One would assume there would be a class action taken against that dealer.
I would suggest painting it metalic white. That way it is not the camper genaric white, but has some class to the color. Think of like the Cadillac Escalade. I think Lexus has an SUV that is that kind of white. Some of the white matalics with some gold tint look good with tan pin striping.
I think metallic white would be a great color for a Class A. are you talking about pearl white?Pearl white is also a good option but expensive. My Pacific Coast is Pearl white with goldish tan bottom. The 2 colors look good together, so just adding some small accent pin striping would set it apart.
I've seen black and it is very imposing. So is dark blue. You might be able to get away with a tan. BUT, I would suggest painting it metalic white. That way it is not the camper genaric white, but has some class to the color. Think of like the Cadillac Escalade. I think Lexus has an SUV that is that kind of white. Some of the white matalics with some gold tint look good with tan pin striping.