If you are talking about a FRED class chassis, it is basically a glorified gas chassis, with a diesel stuck in it. Not much of an advantage. Typically will not have air ride, and the engine is up where you have to listen to it. You take a hit on power and less torque at the drive wheels. Its not an idea that makes a lot of sense, unless you plan to put a million miles on it and can't afford a good sized pusher.
Dare I say its a lot like comparing a Harley to a Goldwing.
It may very well be just a vent line. Stupid alcohol in the fuel eats fuel lines. My parents 2004 Allegro (W22) also developed a leak which turned out to be a deteriorated vent line.
BTY: JB Weld is good for a lot of things, but fuel tanks are not one of them. I've tried more than once on a pin hole leak on a weld on my aluminum tank. Even the JB Weld fuel repair kit with the fiberglass reinforcement does not work. The alcohol in the fuel is just too strong of a solvent. Of all the things I tried, Seal All was about the best. It lasted for several months before it began to leak again. After that, I used Seal All again, but then covered it with Great Stuff. That actually lasted a whole year.
i'd recommend the Paul Wolff campground in the Burnidge Forest Preserve in Elgin, IL. electric hookups with fresh water fill and two dump stations. the suburban Metra commuter railroad has a nearby station that will get you downtown.X2 Paul Wolf camp ground is really pretty nice, especially for large rigs. You are a ways out, but you are in a vary large forest preserve that is not congested like everywhere else in Chicago area.
Some of the older switching type power supplies used to not like modified sign wave inverters, however most modern switching supplies don't care. They used to be confused by the noise generated by the abrupt switching. Modern designs are more stable and not screwed up by the noise.
The only weird thing that may or may not bother you is the cabinetry is a different color wood that the cabinet doors. The reason is the cabinet frames are covered in cheap paper, but the doors are real Oak. Full solid wood cabinets were an option, but many went with cheap. Can't figure out why they couldn't get the color to match.
The EPA had nothing to do with the failure of the UFO. Poor sales caused the demise of the UFO chassis. A gas engine in the rear of a motorhome will not sell because of additional chassis features available on a diesel chassis. Such as, air brakes and air suspension. Plus the fact that even a low end diesel engine has twice the torque of the 8.1.
-TomActually it was only misleading information like this that hurt the sales. If you talk to anyone who has one, they love them. They use coil springs, so the ride is as good as many cars. Power wise, the 8.1 will stomp on half the diesels out there. Again talk to the people that own them.
Reality check: Torque is about wheel torque in what ever gear you are running in. Fact, at the rpm gas engines are running at, the wheel torque exceeds most of the smaller diesel wheel torque ratings. Anyone who actually takes the time to read the posts of those who own the coaches, you will find that even pulling mountains, the smaller DPs are going slower up the passes than the gassers.
Doing this is not for beginners, I suggest that you take it to a reliable RV dealer and pay them to install it, that way if something goes wrong they are liable.:h Um this does not take a rocket scientist. Most likely the OP is smarter than the typical RV mechanic/hack. Those guys are not the highest paid on the food chain.
A couple of things. First for starters, We are going to assume that you really mean an inverter - a device that converts 12 volts to 110 volts. If that is correct, then continue reading.
Generally speaking when you are talking about voltage, you either have low voltage/high current, or high voltage/lower current. High current means heavy wire to handle it. So the best advice is to install the inverter right next to the batteries, that way you have short runs and low losses. Use battery cable to connect the batteries directly to the inverter.
Now what I did on the AC 110 volt side was to run a 30 amp cord from the inverter to my shore power. This way when the inverter is on, all my outlets are hot. The only down side to this is that you will need to remember to turn your converter (12 charger) off, otherwise it is trying to charge its self, which just wastes a bunch juice and will run the batteries dead pretty quick. You probably also want to force you fridge to run on gas rather than auto, as the 110 volt heater heater pulls some juice as well. Other than that, that is really about all you need to worry about.
You have done a lot of maintenance so I would look for something that could have loosened a plug, or frayed a wire, that shuts off power to the ignition. You don't say if the dash goes blank which would indicate a loss of power to the main control panel or if just the engine quits which could be a loss of power to just the ignition/ECM circuits.
Go back over any work that was done around the engine compartment and 12 volt circuits that keep the engine running.This would be my first bet as well. Yes, you can look at the OBD1 port, but most likely you are loosing power somewhere.
If you really want an OBD1 cable, you can build a circuit for about 15 bucks in parts, however finding a laptop that still has a serial port is rare. Find a USB to serial adaptor that is tolerant of the odd baud rate is hit or miss. At this point in the game, you are probably just best off to buy one here:
Once you have the cable, the best program for reading the data is:
This program is just a generic skeleton that requires a plug in that will interpret the data, which you can download here:
Download the datastream definition for $OE. The program is mainly designed for tuners so it has a bunch of features for burning chips, and other things you are not likely to use. However it is the most comprehensive software out there. The learning curve is pretty steep at the beginning, but once you understand the concept, it all makes sense. Eventually you can create your own dashboard layout, so parameters are easy to see. This is what I run and have burnt several chips for my ECM.
One other possibility is a bad ignition coil, especially if heat aggravates the problem. Bad coils will usually start right back up again, but die quickly. Once the engine cools, then they recover and work fine till things heat up again. They do not give any warning, and normally do not throw a code. If you suspect the coil, when it dies, you can unbolt the coil from the engine and isolate it from ground. If the engine runs, but then dies as soon as you touch ground, then you know the coil is shorted.
I should also add that it is highly unlikely the ECM is bad. By 1993, the ECMs were pretty stable in GM vehicles.
You do not have a crank position sensor in that vehicle. That is only used for sequential FI. Since you have a TBI, the ECM does not care what position the crank is in. It just monitors the Dizzy to know when to fire.
I'm at ~30 lbs per HP. if this thread is still around for another couple of weeks, I'll to a 40 to 60 test, as that should give some good comparison numbers.
Yes, I do think that should be a spec on all motorhomes. It would really put things into perspective. Marketing does like stuff like that because it is too difficult to spin that kind of data. Its either has it or it doesn't.
There is some discussion of the best location to mount it. My previous trans had factory installed sensor in the pan. (BTY: the designer raced competitively in F1) The reality is that a sensor in the pan will be "good enough". The internals in the trans heat up over time. You don't need a peak reading to know the trans is getting hot. The second reality is, if you are getting too hot, what are you going to do? Run in a lower gear, so there is less slip. This brings the temp down slowly, just as the rise in temp is slow. Is a sensor in the line going to tell you there is a problem sooner? Not really, because the rise is slow enough you will see it anyway.
I would also suggest that most of the time when the trans overheats, it is under conditions where the engine is putting out a lot of heat as well. In other words, most of the time, the root cause of a trans getting too hot is because the engine is hot and working hard, so the trans cooling from the radiator does not cool the trans enough. (that is why the trans has an extra cooler after the radiator.)
Basically if you can cool the fluid, the trans will stay cool enough.
As an additional note, the 4L80e has the internal sensor right after the pump, which means GM thinks monitoring the pan temp is all that is necessary for the computer to make alternate decisions to save the trans.
It doesn't hurt to put it in the cooling line, but the pan is good enough.
First of all, I have a degree in electronics. And YES, it can confuse the cruise control, especially in an older unit. The reason is that when the brake lights are off, they look like a very low resistor to ground. Incandescent have a very significant turn on current, so it almost looks like a short. The cruise control wants to see this near short to ground, so that it knows the brakes are off. LEDs do not have a low resistance to ground when they are off, which confuses the cruise control, preventing it from turning on. The solution is easy, one just needs to add relay to the brake light circuit so that it really sees the off condition.
As far as the flasher, any auto parts store has a solid state flasher unit that plugs into the standard flasher relay, and will make the blinkers work correctly, regardless of the load.
Why? As long as I get there I am cool with that.Because it creates a base line to measure by, in case you think something is wrong later on, or if you add performance modifications. Same reason for checking mileage periodically.
My ISM500 in the 31,000 lb 36' Foretravel does the 0-60 in 18 seconds. Love the way it lifts the front on take off and when up shifts. It is just a matter of HP & Torque vs weight. No magic.
Dave MOK, that is impressive. I'm only around 16 seconds, but I am limited by wheel spin below 25 mph.
Assuming the RV is stored right now, is it protected from rain? Tweaked structure will likely cause it to be prone to leaks. If there is an expectation of it being rebuilt, I would have a big concern about water damage while it is being stored. You may get an estimate for the repairs, but by the time one gets around to fixing it, there will likely be new damage unless it is covered up.
And on that note, that would be my biggest concern with a repair. Rivets that are used to hold stuff together get stretched and no longer keep things tight. RV structure is designed to be put together once and never be taken apart. This makes it impossible to asses interior structure, and prove it is still OK.
Looks like the only cost is the price of the rims. 1 super single is real close to the cost of 2 normal tires.
Truthfully, we should have expected you to make this choice, but I suspect that all the reasons you did it have nothing to do with what you posted. We know the real truth - you wanted wide racing tires on your RV! (We've read your blog)
If you can, try to do your inspection on a rainy day. The worse, the better. Not that I really expect leak issues on that new of a vehicle, but still not a bad idea. Also, high humidity from rain will be more likely to aggravate problems if they do exist.