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 > Your search for posts made by 'Desert Captain' found 220 matches.

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  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: Compressor. Do you need one?

YES! Sooner or later you will need one and often at a less than convenient time and location {Remember Mr. Murphy}. I had the 100 Psi pancake from Harbor freight but it is slow, loud and takes a lot of space. Replaced it with a small, shoebox size, Porter cable. Also loud and slow but very compact and gets the job done even on my LTX's. Recently picked up a combo unit - compressor, jump start/charger, even has a work light, again at Harbor Freight {$84}. It is smaller than the pancake, quicker and quieter and doesn't take much space. Nice to have the multi functions available. Every time I have helped some out who did not have but needed a compressor/jumpstart/charger they have all said they were going to go right out and get one. :C
Desert Captain 07/23/16 11:05am Full-time RVing
Arizona White Mountains Monsoon adventure...

The Monsoon has arrived in Arizona, definitely our favorite time of year. As summer highs hit triple digits nearly every day it is time to head for the high country and enjoy the show. One of our favorite CG's is Rainbow at Big Lake. http://i549.photobucket.com/albums/ii362/Captottersea/IMG_1232_zpshdiy3bqv.jpg The 225 mile drive is spectacular and with our site sitting at 9,230' summer heat is no longer an issue with no need for AC. We even used the furnace on our last morning as the temps were down into the low 50's. We spent our mornings riding my motorcycle throughout the area enjoying some of the finest bike roads in America. Breakfast at the Bear Wallow Cafe in Alpine on highway 191 is always a highlight of our trip. The run down to Eager/Springerville is awesome and a side trip into Greer makes another great breakfast ride. Almost every afternoon around 3 the clouds begin to stack up and darken and soon the lightning and torrential rains sweep through putting on an amazing show which usually subsides around sunset (1930). We pass this time with our own private Happy hour enjoying the show, a cocktail {or two}, and some music from our Class C before having a leisurely dinner. When the rains passes it is time for a campfire which we repeat over coffee the next morning. The large CG is heavily wooded with Aspen, Spruce and Pines with very large, well spread out sites. No hook ups but there are water spigots {NOT for filling RV's}, and restrooms with flush toilets throughout the CG. They also have a shower facility. Down the road is a full dump station and a mile away is a campground offering full hook ups though absent the need for air conditioning {daytime highs were in the low 70's}, AC is hardly a requirement. The large lake offers excellent fishing and kayaking/canoeing are also popular. The site, a 66' long pull through, was $10 a night with our Geezer cards. Our only complaint was the serious problem with morons speeding through the campground which is posted at 10 mph max. Being off of the main road on a side loop helped but the thin air seems to intensify the idiot factor. :S
Desert Captain 07/22/16 12:24pm RV Parks, Campgrounds and Attractions
RE: Claas A/ Class C

Just returned from a 4 day trip up to the Rainbow campground {9,230'} at Big Lake in the White Mountains and discovered another reason that we love our C.... The Monsoon is ripping through Arizona with the mountains getting spectacular thunderstorms on an almost daily basis, this was just another reason we love going up. Around three every day the clouds would stack up, darken and shortly thereafter the lightning and torrential rains would begin. To pass the time until they subsided, usually around sunset, we would make three O'clock our happy hour. While our cab seats do not swivel we discovered they make a very nice cocktail lounge. The cabover keeps the rain off of the windshield and side windows for an unobstructed view, the seats recline nicely and our Bluetooth speaker provides the tunes straight from the i - phone. Here is a shot from our new favorite lounge: http://i549.photobucket.com/albums/ii362/Captottersea/IMG_1239_zpsbet0owyh.jpg :B
Desert Captain 07/22/16 11:11am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Ride Quality

Nothing subtle about the improvement we enjoy after installing a new set of Bilsteins to our 2012 E-350. After 33,000 miles the original equipment shocks were tired {too say the least -pretty well shot to say the most}. After speaking to the folks at Bilstein and Shock Warehouse I elected to go with their "heavy duty" model. Their standard model is for large SUV's and our 24' C is a lot more truck than any SUV. This decision was based upon a number of factors. Our GVWR is 11,500# and we usually run very near that number. We often tow my motorcycle {675# Harley Dyna Super Glide}, on a small trailer ({200#}, which puts us even nearer our GVWR. I could not believe ride and handling after installing the Bilsteins, so much better. I watched two very large mechanics wrestle with compressing the shocks during the install, the rears were not a problem but the fronts were a serious PITA! {soo glad I did not try and do this myself!}. These shocks are on the firm side of the equation but given the load they support I would not want anything less. Running with a medium to heavy load the coach actually rides far better then it ever did before. Wind and trucks were never an issue that remains the case. Two finger steering is the rule and that continues up through 35 mph winds... anything above 35 and I simple choose to get off the road. Keep in mind I have weighed the coach, several times, and inflate my Michelin LTX M/S 2's according to the load I am currently running as even great shocks {Bilsteins, Koni's, Monroe's etc.,}s are worthless without the proper inflation. Works for me! :B
Desert Captain 07/17/16 05:58pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Ride Quality

I can't say enough about the improvement in ride from installing Koni FSD shocks. Yes, it is over $600 plus labor. Worth it! X2 though I went with Bilsteins. When shocks wear out, day to day you tend not to notice as the change is gradual and spread over time/miles. When you finally replace them, hopefully with upgrades over the originals {like Koni's or Bilsteins}, the improvement is immediate and huge. For the record I replaced the original Ford shocks on our 2012 E-350 at about 33,000 miles and immediately wished I had done it sooner. if you are running the factory originals and have more than 24,000 miles give some serious consideration to replacing. As always.... opinions and YMMV. :C
Desert Captain 07/15/16 07:21pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Claas A/ Class C

I think the biggest difference is crash safety. ClassC has a cabin that has crash and roll-over ratings. ClassA none. ClassA gives you more cabin comfort and option to use front seats while "camping". Exactly how many Class C cabins have been tested in a head on collision with several tons of cabinets, furniture, and appliances attempting to crush you from behind? :B http://accesscamping.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/safety.jpg As bad as this crash looks it was probably survivable with the air bags {not found on most A's}, deploying. Look at the damage closely and imagine that coach was a Class A... two dead for sure. In an A you are sitting atop the front wheels with no engine in front {look at the picture again noting where those Class A folks would have been at impact}. As far as things rushing and crushing forward that does not appear to be the case here and how would an A be any different? Roll a Class A onto the passenger side and hope for no fire as getting out can be problematic. For the record lots of C's have front seats that swivel and if yours does not aftermarket swivel kits are available for most coaches. Lastly, IMHO: the smiley face accompanying the photo in this post is in very poor taste. :R You know and I know the smiley face had nothing to do with the picture. It had to do with the ignorant comment about Class C's being tested for crash worthiness. The airbags would have held the people upright and prevented them from absorbing the impact of the debris behind them that would have crushed them. There is not one single Class C that is tested for crash survivability and just because there is an airbag that does not mean that there was ever any testing for crash or roll over protection. With a class A, you will be sitting several feet above a collision with an automobile rather than right at the same level. A head on with an automobile will be bad for the automobile and not so much for the people sitting well above the crash in the Class A. You really need to look at your post again, pay particular attention {as I previously suggested}, to where the folks in a Class A would have been at impact. Several feet above the the impacting auto, which may or may not be true, doesn't buy you an ounce of safety. They would have been shredded by the impact, at least from the waist down and then there is that huge fishbowl windshield disintegrating to take out the rest of them. The cab of the Class C is actually reasonably intact, the drivers side door pillar is unbent and there is nothing to indicate that anything came forward into the cab from the interior of the coach. As you noted the airbags would have kept the driver and passenger upright and secured by their seat belts giving them at least a decent chance of surviving though serious injury most certainly was part of the equation. Come on man.... your explanations doesn't wash, man up and admit the smiley had no place in your post. :S
Desert Captain 07/15/16 04:03pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: What did you do to your Class C MH today???

After nearly 5 years the original group 27 house batteries (2), have expired. They had been reading low on the hydrometer for a year or more but kept getting the job done. Obviously we don't use much DC... but then most folks don't. Got the best deal at Batteries Plus replacing the originals with two Exide pure deep cycles {not the so called dual purpose starting/wanta be deep cycles}, GP 27's for $100 each. I'll be cleaning up the cable ends and battery slide out tray with the standard baking soda/water mixture and installing them tomorrow as we are headed out for 4 days of dry camping on Monday. Probably won't even need to run the generator. :C
Desert Captain 07/15/16 02:30pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Claas A/ Class C

I think the biggest difference is crash safety. ClassC has a cabin that has crash and roll-over ratings. ClassA none. ClassA gives you more cabin comfort and option to use front seats while "camping". Exactly how many Class C cabins have been tested in a head on collision with several tons of cabinets, furniture, and appliances attempting to crush you from behind? :B http://accesscamping.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/safety.jpg As bad as this crash looks it was probably survivable with the air bags {not found on most A's}, deploying. Look at the damage closely and imagine that coach was a Class A... two dead for sure. In an A you are sitting atop the front wheels with no engine in front {look at the picture again noting where those Class A folks would have been at impact}. As far as things rushing and crushing forward that does not appear to be the case here and how would an A be any different? Roll a Class A onto the passenger side and hope for no fire as getting out can be problematic. For the record lots of C's have front seats that swivel and if yours does not aftermarket swivel kits are available for most coaches. Lastly, IMHO: the smiley face accompanying the photo in this post is in very poor taste. :R
Desert Captain 07/15/16 02:20pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Claas A/ Class C

As noted, for overall safety the Class C wins hands down{far better crash protection, multiple doors etc.}. They also are much easier/cheaper to service. C's tend to sleep more bodies. It all comes down to how and how many, are going to be using the coach. Yes, I have a C but would not hesitate to move to an A if our needs changed {not likely}, but bang for the buck our C is the perfect fit. I've looked at several of the newer sub 30' A's and while they are OK they offer nothing I need and/or don't already have in our 24' C. As always... opinions and YMMV. :C
Desert Captain 07/15/16 09:50am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Can not believe what I just saw

I agree the OP should have spoken up.... either to the moron or to the camp hosts/Ranger. Uncorrected that sort of behavior will likely continue. Watched a guy lay his sewer hose across the picnic table once. I asked him what the "heck" he was thinking and got only a mumbled apology. Hopefully he won't do it again but not counting on it.
Desert Captain 07/14/16 06:16pm RV Lifestyle
RE: Towing question

You need to take a hard look at your current trucks payload (yellow sticker inside the drivers door). With the limited tow rating you have I suspect that your payload is probably around 1200# {or less}, and when you add the proper tongue weight and the weight of the hitch which should be around 750#, you are probably already just about out of payload. Going to anything larger just does not look promising and that 4.8 is already working pretty hard with the trailer you have. I too am no fan of slides as they are problematic at best and add a lot of extra weight. Look for a floorpan which works for you without a slide and your life will be much simpler.... not to mention lighter. As always.... Opinions and YMMV. :C
Desert Captain 07/14/16 12:46pm Travel Trailers
RE: Need some advice

"Most 1500's don't have the payload to carry that much tongue weight, passengers, and stuff in the bed. Do yourself a solid and get a 2500. You won't regret getting the proper tool for the job." X2 The trailers you are considering are nearly 33' long and no half ton is going to be enough, as it will be the tail wagging the dog. As noted above watch the payload numbers on any new truck. Dodge is notorious for some of the smallest payloads out there. Crew cab 4 X 4's can have as little as 1,000# and that simply will not solve your problem. Good luck. :C
Desert Captain 07/05/16 05:49am Travel Trailers
RE: Need some advice

Desert Captain. If you read my response completely, you would see that I did not say use dry weight. No one buys a trailer, then weighs it, and says,dang, Im overweight.. or cool.. Im good. But, using dry weight, and adding 1000lbs to that weight, and taking 13 percent as an estimate to see if the truck/trailer combo is even doable works. Or, you can also take the GVW of the trailer, and then, take 13 percent or 15 percent of that, and determine tongue weight. Having said that, with a payload of 1650, with 2 adults, 3 kids, 2 dogs, you aren't going to have much payload left for much of a trailer. I seriously doubt the trailers you're looking at will work. Mike What you said is: "Secondly, while dry weight is not indicative of real world application, if used properly, you can use it to help." That statement is false and will only get the OP into trouble. There is no standard in the industry for computation of "Dry" weights. Some manufacturers include options {awnings, levelers, batteries, LP thanks etc.}, and some do not. When you see a dry weight listed you never know what it really means. This is why dry weights are beyond useless. Your suggestion to just add 1,000# is purely arbitrary and like a dry weight is worthless. What folks actually load varies widely but 1,500# would not be an unusual load with many going far higher. A quick review of the trailers he is considering show very little OCCC and that is another problem just waiting to bite him in the rear as that is a dead give away that the trailer is very "lightly" constructed. My 22' Fleetwood Pioneer Spirit {a middle of the market model}, had well over 2,000# of OCCC. The Op is going for 30+ footers with a family and only has a little over 1,200# to work with. :h I agree that you want 13% of the actual, loaded, trailers weight on the tongue. Until you load a trailer as it will ultimately be used and go to a scale you will have no clue what that weight is. This is why dry weights are not only useless but often dangerous as well when people use them having made false assumptions about the load they are actually dealing with. What the OP refuses to acknowledge is that the weights he was quoted are "Dry weights" and his truck will never be able to tow 7,180# and stay within its limits. This is a classic example of just how dangerous/useless dry weights can be. As noted before.... opinions and YMMV. :C
Desert Captain 07/04/16 08:15am Travel Trailers
RE: Need some advice

Lots of misinformation here: "If you're going to purchase a travel trailer, make sure it's not aluminum sided. They all have leaking problems at one time or another--usually in the corners. " This statement is absurd and flat out wrong. There are lots of very well built aluminum sided trailers and fiberglass has its own set of demons. "Secondly, while dry weight is not indicative of real world application, if used properly, you can use it to help." Said before and will say it again.... Dry weights, all dry weights, are at best a joke and often a dangerous joke. No one tows an empty trailer. Run {Forrest run!}, from anyone who gives you a dry weight, only salesmen trying to sell you to much trailer will ever quote them. Your truck may have a theoretical towing capacity of 7,180# but that is about as accurate in the real world as your trailers dry weights. You will run out of payload and thus be well over your trucks GVWR and probably gross axel weights long before you even get close to 7,180#. I had a very capable F-150 SCAB that was rated to tow 8,600# and it was nearly maxed out towing a 5,000# 22' TT. Not trying to burst bubbles here but towing too much trailer with too little truck is never a good idea. As always.... Opinions and YMMV. :C
Desert Captain 07/03/16 08:29pm Travel Trailers
RE: Need some advice

You have not shared any numbers for either trailer or your truck but neither one sounds towable by a V-6 half ton. If you will post more info then we can better respond to your original question. The GWVR of both trailers and your truck along with the trucks payload would help a lot. Please don't bother with any so called "dry" weights as they are worthless. :C
Desert Captain 07/03/16 06:50pm Travel Trailers
RE: recommendation on new tires for my f150

The speculation and BS are beginning to get deep. Coopers tow better based upon what? I'll put the performance of my Michelin LTX M/S 2's up against any product fromCooper. P's give less wiggle/squirm whatever than LT's... are you kidding me? Look at the construction of a multi ply E rated tire vs a P. P stands for "Passenger" just as LT stands for light truck. P's are not designed for towing, period. Will they do it, yes. Will they do it as well as an LT, not a chance. Reality... what a concept. :S As always.... Opinions and YMMV. :R
Desert Captain 07/01/16 08:55pm Towing
RE: Hitch mounted motorcycle carrier on class c

The only way to know for sure is load it up and get to a {hopefully}, nearby scale. My guess is you will be so light on the front axel as to be dangerous not to mention well over the rear axel rating. IMHO: Adding 500 extra pounds on the rear end just is not going to work. you might want to look at some of the motorcycle trailers that are available. Here are a couple of shots of the Kendon single that I use. It stands up and stores taking very little space {at your site or back in the garage}: http://i549.photobucket.com/albums/ii362/Captottersea/IMG_1095_zpsjodh7sr6.jpg http://i549.photobucket.com/albums/ii362/Captottersea/IMG_1100_zpstraajfh1.jpg I added the 2 X 8's to provide a nice stable place to put my feet when walking the bike {Harley Dyna Super Glide - 700#} on or off: http://i549.photobucket.com/albums/ii362/Captottersea/IMG_1139_zpsc3tafkij.jpg
Desert Captain 07/01/16 03:51pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Transmission temperature gauge

I'll attempt to respond to several previous posts here. The beauty of the Scan Gauge is that you will know exactly what your trans fluid temps are. The first time you run with the SC on even a slight grade you will be able to watch your trans temps creep up. Engage TH and they will drop 12 to 15 degrees in just a couple of miles. Trans temps (I am taking about the late model V-10), will rise and fall with the terrain, load and ambient temperature. Watch for trends and adjust accordingly. A brief climb up to 220 - 224 on a long, steep climb {like we encountered coming up from Panamint Springs climbing up the massive grade in Death Vally last September, towing 1,000# of motorcycle and trailer, temp 104 and climbing}, is not a disaster but you better be in TH and back off the throttle. At the top of the grade the temp quickly dropped back into the 1995 to 210 range with no discernible harm or foul. So long as the temps fall commensurate with the change in conditions things are working as they should. This also applies to your engine coolant temps. Engaging TH locks up the torque converter and/or dramatically reduces slippage which equals friction which equals heat. On downhills, especially long steep grades - think 6 to 8% over 10 to 12 miles - you will be able to safely descend in TH, probably without touching the brakes. An additional benefit is that you are not burning a drop of fuel as the flow of fuel to the engine is cut off. Most folks do not use Tow Haul nearly enough. The weight of a normally loaded Class C is more then enough of a load for the rig to substantially benefit from running in TH mode. Obviously if you are towing anything or loaded heavy, engaging it is a no brainer {only those with no brains don't}. Running in the TH mode will not have any significant impact on your mileage but it will protect and prolong the life of your trans mission. Use the SC {or any other reliable trans temp gauge}, to confirm that it is time, usually overdue to engage TH. Works for me. :C
Desert Captain 06/30/16 03:11pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Transmission temperature gauge

I too have a V-10 E-350 {2012}, Class C. I bought the Scan Gauge specially to display trans fluid temps. Without that info most folks have no clue just how hot their trans can get especially when not utilizing your Tow Haul mode. Engaging it, even on a seemingly slight grade, can drop your trans fluid temps 12 to 15 degrees in just a couple of miles. Most folks do not use T/H nearly enough and that can easily lead to premature transmission failure. The Scan Gauge does so many things well at a very reasonable cost I cannot imagine running without it. For the record I run with mine displaying trans fluid and coolant temps along with real time and average mpg. You can easily adjust your display to any one of a couple of dozen displays but those four work well for me. :C
Desert Captain 06/29/16 03:37pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Class C weight issue

The problem with most 30 something Class C's is that they lack sufficient payload. A band aid solution for you is to dump half, or more, of your fresh water tank and that gets you back to the number but does nothing for all of the additional gear you have yet to load. What are the GVWR/payload numbers for your rig? You did not quote the front axle weights but it sounds like you were well over your GVWR of 14,500. If available you may benefit from a four corner weighing enabling you to more efficiently distribute your load. You should {IMHO}, be concerned and hopefully can find ways to reduce your weight. Slides and leveling systems are two of the biggest consumers/wastes of your meager payload but there isn't much you can do about them. Learn to to start leaving more gear home and load the heavy stuff as far forward as possible {which can be difficult with a Class C}. Be sure your tires are inflated sufficiently for the load they carry. Good luck! :C
Desert Captain 06/27/16 03:45pm Class C Motorhomes
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