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 > Your search for posts made by 'Desert Captain' found 200 matches.

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RE: Using tire air inflation charts vs side wall markings

The problem with being in the "full psi camp" is that chances are excellent that you are over inflating your tires. Snip... :C In fact, I believe just the opposite is true. I have always run my trailer tires at maximum sidewall pressure and have never had a single tire related problem. I have two main reasons for doing that. 1. Most trailer tires are just adequate for the load they are carrying. There is usually very little capability to spare. Many manufacturers depend on the trailers tongue weight or pin weight to allow the installed tires to not be overloaded. 2. The higher pressure will make the sidewalls stiffer which helps keep sway down and also helps keep the tire on the rim when doing tight turns that scuffs the tread along the road. This does not happen on single axle trailer but most travel trailers of any size have two or more axles and will scuff the tread when turning. The bigger the spread between the axles, the more scuffing will take place. Barney Your first statement is wrong and only proves that you have been lucky. There is no way you can know the proper psi without weighing the rig and consulting the manufacturers load/inflation table. Your second comment leads me to believe you are foolish if in fact you are running tires that are "just adequate" and compensating for that by inflating them to their max psi. Why not get tires that can actually do the job without being inflated to their Mac psi? What do you think happens to those tires when your trailer weight is increased? Ever have to drive home with full black and grey tanks due to the dump station bring out of order or just too crowded? Been there done that. It is never a good idea to operate anything from tires to toilets at its "maximum". If you want to be safe put on tires that can do the job (without being at their max psi), and then inflate to the proper psi for that job. This is why every tire manufacturer produces inflation/load data. :C
Desert Captain 08/23/16 01:28pm Beginning RVing
RE: Using tire air inflation charts vs side wall markings

The problem with being in the "full psi camp" is that chances are excellent that you are over inflating your tires. If by some miracle you are not and in fact max psi is what the load calls for you are screwed if your load increases at all. In short you have no room to haul any additional load. Add to this the fact that you are trashing your RV with every bump and road joint, why would you want to do that? :h If max psi is appropriate for your load you would be far better off getting a tire capable of carrying more rather than risk disaster due to being under inflated when your load increases. If your tires can run well under the max and be matched to your load you have a simple option when it comes to increasing your load... merely increase psi. In the real world very few people run lighter loads over time, quite the opposite. :C
Desert Captain 08/22/16 03:46pm Beginning RVing
RE: Using tire air inflation charts vs side wall markings

Taking blanket numbers like the max PSI on the sidewalls {which by the way is merely a statement of fact not an instruction to do so}, or the numbers posted inside the drivers door will often lead to bad results. Your tires should always be inflated to the proper psi for the load they are actually carrying. The chances that those fixed numbers which can not/do not take into consideration what loads are actually present have little chance of being correct. {Yep, even a broken clock is right twice a day .... but I digress...} Don't know what sort of rig you have but a trip to the local CAT scale is in order. I run my 24' Class C with E rated Michelin LTX M/S 2's at 60 on the fronts and 65 on the rears as this is the proper psi for the weight they are carrying. The ride is very smooth even with the heavy duty Bilsteins I run. If I inflated all 6 to the 80 psi max the ride would be insanely rough and the tires would wear out prematurely. As always.... Opinions and YMMV. :C
Desert Captain 08/22/16 12:51pm Beginning RVing
RE: First Time RV owner...need some advice please!

Don't let the "you gotta have a slide out(s) nonsense" get to you. Far more important {as previously noted}, is finding a floorpan that works for you and your family and that may or may not include slideout(s). A quality, well maintained coach is what you are seeking. Slide outs, particularly in the age coach you are considering, add weight taking away payload you can ill afford to lose. More than one slide out in a class C is absurd given the weight you will inherit. Slide outs also tend to be problematic... try finding a page or two in this Forum where someone is not having slide out issues and the older the coach the greater the likelihood of problems. They do add some useable space but be leery of galley slides that hold major appliances. As always.... Opinions and YMMV {Your Mileage May Vary} :B
Desert Captain 08/20/16 02:00pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Cab heat

Good info Phil, thanks. Frankly my days of driving down dusty roads in the C are down to just about zero. I can deal with the dust as you do but those damned washboards get old fast. :C
Desert Captain 08/20/16 01:45pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Bumper carrier fail..

If you think dodging road debris is scary in your RV think what it looks like to those of us riding motorcycles. A lot of bikers have ended up seriously dead as a result of these idiots improperly securing their loads. :M
Desert Captain 08/15/16 07:36am General RVing Issues
RE: Has anyone ever has a Surge Guard or Portable EMS stolen?

to my knowledge a surge guard and an "EMS" are (2) different things an EMS "Energy Management System" is internal to the RV does 'load shedding' and can not possibly be external i Assume you mean external voltage protection against high OR low voltage but unless the nomenclature has changed an EMS which does more than simple voltage protection is not used to refer to a portable external voltage protector and kinda confuses the question "Wrong", I have a Progressive "Portable" 30 amp EMS system. Nothing inherent in an EMS system that dictates that they must be internal/hard wired. Getting back to the original topic I do lock mine up when in use utilizing either the locking capability of the pedestal itself or with a heavy chain and padlock. The unit pictured above is no more, perhaps even less secure, than mine locked to the pedestal. That round white plastic door could be easily opened with a crow bar, screw driver or nail file. :R
Desert Captain 08/14/16 07:09pm Tech Issues
RE: A Ladder

OK, I'll play the Devil's advocate here with a dissenting opinion based upon a few facts... First of all most of the ladders that come with RV's, especially C's are very lightweight. Have yet to see one that would make me comfortable (I weigh just under 200#). Having a permanent ladder is an invitation to bad guys to access your roof. Coaches can be burglarized by skinny burglars {or ones using a kid}, to drop down one of your rooftop hatches. If you store anything up there a fixed ladder is an invitation for thieves to help themselves. I do have a 12' folding/extendable ladder at home which I use for routine inspections and subsequent maintenance. It is very sturdy and extends well above the roof line to make getting on or off much safer. Having a fiberglass roof {Thank you Nexus}, minimizes the need to be up there very often and I would never even think about storing anything up there. Every campground/RV park I have ever visited had lots of Fivers and Class A's and most of them have a nice tall step ladder strapped to the their coach. Can't remember the last time I saw a camp host or ranger station that did not have a ladder or two as they use them all the time for various maintenance chores. I can't imagine it would be too tough to find a neighbor, host or ranger with a ladder you could borrow if you had some unforeseen emergency that required your presence up top. Watched a guy in a Class A use his ladder once to aggressively trim the trees in his site from the roof. It worked pretty well right up to the point where he was thrown out of the CG in perpetuity for doing so... :S. As far as resale it is a non issue just like slides, levelers etc.. Some folks can't live without them others just don't see the need. As always.... Opinions and YMMV. :C
Desert Captain 08/14/16 11:31am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Cab heat

Once again Phil we agree. I too utilize the Mix function for the distribution of cold AC air. I also do not see how the air dam pictured above does anything but block the flow and increase resistance but happily my 2011 E-350 chassis has none of the heat issues previously discussed. Usually by the time we reach the CG, check in and reach our site the engine has been operating at very low RPM with a fair amount of idle, for a while and most of the engine heat is gone. Never felt the need to prop open the hood but I'm sure that would enhance heat dissipation. :C
Desert Captain 08/13/16 08:00am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Cab heat

Desert Captain, Mine runs the same temperatures--and I calculated that in order to get to 80 f 9000 BTU's need to dissipate. I'm not challenging your math just reporting what our 2011 chassis E-350 does. Maybe there is more/better insulation in our coach{?}. Excess cabin heat simply has not been an issuer us. If it is an issue why not just let the engine idle for 10 minutes or so, instead of just shutting it down, with the dash AC cranked up. Those units put out a lot of very cold air and if that doesn't get rid of enough heat open the hood (as previously noted). Good luck! :C PS: On the subject of math just remember.... There are three kinds of people on this planet, those who can do math and those that can't. :B
Desert Captain 08/12/16 07:14am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Cab heat

Unless you are going from extended time running the interstate directly into your site {think KOA's which are almost always located right on the freeway/highway}, there should not be much heat to dissipate. I've never had heat issues with my E-350 V-10 in the last three years and 30,000+ miles. Even when we stop every 2 to 3 hours, often after cruising the interstate, we've yet to have any engine heat problems. Typical average engine temps are 195 to 210 {per the Scan Gauge}. Our dash AC keeps the cab a very comfortable 72 degrees in almost any weather {therein may lay a solution for some}. As others have noted you can open the hood {never have}, hang a blanket to isolate the cab from the coach, open the cab windows or even let it idle with the cab AC running. Unless you have serious engine cooling issues this thread may be searching for a solution for which there is no known problem {the government does this a lot}. :h As always.... Opinions and YMMV. :C
Desert Captain 08/11/16 09:15pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Total knee replacement issues.

BEFORE you let anyone put a new knee (or hip for that matter), into your body find out what it is made of and get yourself tested for any allergic reaction. Yes, I learned this the hard way. I was deathly allergic to the Cobalt Chromium knee the VA put in. My body was rejecting that knee before I was off of the operating table. It took 6 months and ultimately firing the original surgeon {head of the department}, to convince the VA something was desperately wrong - swollen, warm to the touch, pain off the charts despite struggling through excruciating pain with all of the physical therapy. Eight months after the first surgery they cut my leg off again and put in an Oxinium knee {Google it}, with better but not great results. While severe allergic reactions are rare you DO NOT want to be that guy.... trust me! :E
Desert Captain 08/09/16 01:47pm Beginning RVing
RE: Show Low AZ ????

Show Low sits at about 6,000' and is a developed touristy area. Fools Hollow State Park is a very nice CG with hook ups available but reservations are essential this time of year. To the west the Mogollon Rim is gorgeous with lots of CG's with Canyon Point (7,700'), being about the only one with hookups (again, reservations are a must). To the east you pass through Pinetop and Lakeside, like Show Low just more of the same. The White Mountains are spectacular with lots of CG's. We like Greer and the Big Lake (9,230'), with lots of smaller lakes as well. :C
Desert Captain 08/09/16 10:57am General RVing Issues
RE: Help in Buying Used Class C

I'll throw out one of the most overlooked and yet critical items for buyers.... Test drive it! I'm not talking a ten minute spin around the block. Take it out for an hour and get on the freeway. Hows the acceleration? How easy is it to merge? What sort of visibility do you have from the drivers seat? Blind spots? What happens when an 18 wheeler blows by you at 80? Does it handle easily or are you fighting the wheel with two hands. Rollover some railroad tracks, take some steep driveways - does the rear end bottom out? Keep in mind that during any test drive the rig will probably be significantly lighter that when you are actually loaded for a trip. Probably no way around that but think in terms of couple thousand pounds of extra weight and how that will impact the ride and handling. This forum is full of posts from folks who spent big bucks on a new or used coach and then suddenly they are not happy with how it drives. This could have easily been avoided by a proper test drive. They now are compelled to spend thousands on aftermarket gear to make it better. :S If it does't drive well before you buy it don't expect it to get better when you get it home. Good luck! :C
Desert Captain 08/08/16 08:05am Class C Motorhomes
RE: RV parks in Arizona

I stand corrected on the Flagstaff reference, yes it gets cold and often has snow in the winter but... Go north, south, east or west of Flagstaff and you will find all sorts of wonderful, comfortable places to see and stay at. Monument Valley, Meteor Crater, Kingman and Vegas and of course Sedona. You miss all of that if you just stay down in Tucson.... which by the way we love, we live there. :B
Desert Captain 08/06/16 09:19pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: RV parks in Arizona

I like the earlier suggestion to vary your locations for your time in Arizona. We live 25 miles north of Tucson and travel throughout the state in our 24' Class C. Yuma is a hole on a good day and they don't get many, nothing to see or do there but it is warmer than where most folks there come from. For southern Arizona Tucson and or Benson are good locations to enjoy the weather and take maximum advantage of all of the amazing places to explore. I would do at least half of my time in those areas before moving on to Parker, Havesu or Flagstaff to enjoy the northern half of the state. Southern Utah and New Mexico also offer many opportunities to explore and enjoy. In the winter months just watch your elevation as Arizona can get get very cold, which, I assume is what you came here to avoid. Arizona is an awesome location for RV'ing and you can enjoy it year round. Throw in all of the history and natural wonders that abound and it is hard to imagine not being here . As always.... Opinions and YMMV. :B
Desert Captain 08/06/16 05:23pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Spare Tire Carrier Project - Under Chassis mount

Nice job, I think you are good to go. I had Nexus install a custom {welded}, mount under the rear of my 24' Class C when we were passing through Elkhart. This is where you want your spare. The weight is down low and forward of the rear of the coach. Mounting on the rear bumper is a disaster waiting to happen.... and yes, I know this first hand. I bought a rear bumper mount and after hitting just about every pothole between Tucson and Maine its finally fractured leaving the spare hanging at a 60 degree angle out from the bumper. Lots of Class C's have such wimpy bumpers they cannot support the weight and you are very likely to lose the entire bumper. :S As for the folks that think they don't need a spare.... good luck with that. :C
Desert Captain 08/06/16 05:11pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Motorcycle Carrier

If you add 600# + the weight of the carrier to the rear of a 27' coach your front end is going to be awfully light and not in a good way. I can't imagine how you could make this work without compromising your coach. :h You might want to consider a small trailer. The 700# Harley tows like a dream on my Kendon single: http://i549.photobucket.com/albums/ii362/Captottersea/IMG_1229_zpsrduhm6jq.jpg
Desert Captain 08/05/16 08:32am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Motorcycle Carrier

Oops, duplicate post
Desert Captain 08/05/16 08:31am Class A Motorhomes
RE: gas mileage

After three years and 30,000+ miles our 2012 24' Nexus Phantom Class C with the V-10 consistently gets 9.5. We generally cruise at 60 +/- and often tow my motorcycle {bike and trailer weigh just under 1,000#}. This is including a little generator time, 55 hours in the last three years. :C
Desert Captain 08/04/16 09:12pm Class C Motorhomes
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