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Date Posted |
Forum
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RE: leveling and slide out
Most of you guys have been on here long enough to see this same argument 2-3 times a year about leveling first vs slide outs first. Why do you still argue over this. Some brands want it done one way and some want it done another.
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Diplomat Don
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05/17/13 11:00pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: leveling and slide out
campingman55.....Here is a secret that helps the older guys. Once you arrive at your campsite, park the coach and make all of your connections first, such as the water, power and sewer. This way you're not bending under the slides to make connections. It also gives you more power (shore power boost to your batteries) when moving the slides. DO the reverse when leaving. Saves on the back and knees.
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Diplomat Don
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05/17/13 04:57pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Samsung Refer Install Over Propane Heater (Height Issues)
RayChez.....Most of the Monaco guys that installed the Samsungs are only running 2000 Watt modified sine wave inverters. The Samsung refers don't mine MSW. They also are only running four batteries. I added two extra batteries and another inverter because I'm really anal.
I added the two extra batteries that are tied into the other four by welding up a shelf that moved the starting batteries off the floor of my battery box, giving me room to add another four coach batteries.
Here is a photo of the battery box upgrade.
http://www.irv2.com/attachments/photopost/data/500/medium/P1010960.JPG
I added the Magnum 800 watt msw inverter to the same bay as my Magnum 2000 watt inverter. The 800 could be mounted in any position so I mounted it to the roof. It has a built-in transfer switch so when on shore power it automatically passes 110 power to the inverter. It is connected to the six batteries the same as the 2000 watt inverter.
http://www.irv2.com/attachments/photopost/data/500/medium/P1010961.JPG
I didn't have a dedicated water filter for the ice maker, so I found a small screw on type at Lowes and added it to the exterior refer vent opening.
http://www.irv2.com/attachments/photopost/data/500/medium/P1010962.JPG
Lastly, I added a remote to the inverter so I could turn it on and off from inside the coach. I mounted it where I could see it while driving.
http://www.irv2.com/attachments/photopost/data/500/medium/P10109631.JPG
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Diplomat Don
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05/16/13 01:31am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: wheel polishing
lj2654.....All good information, but I think an important point was not mentioned. Mothers, Flitz or any others work well. The Power Ball or the Flitz ball both work well. I was always polishing mine, but they just never got that shiny.
Finally, I found what I was doing wrong. I was like "Tim the Tool Man Taylor", more had to be better......it's not. Mine didn't start to shine until I reduced the amount of polish I was using. I was applying soooo much polish that everything just turned black, and I went through about two car wash towels per rim. Now I use about a thimble full to do an entire rim.
On the fronts, I use one of the lug nut cap pullers and pull the caps. I have a large and small Flitz polishing ball. I found the Flitz balls last about 10 times longer than the Mother's because they're a heavier cloth. I use the small ball to get in the tight areas around the lug nuts, again, using very small dabs of Flitz. Polish in small areas. If you apply a lot of polish, it will dry out before you get to it.
Once the lug nut area is looking good, I move to the large polisher and do the rest of the wheel. You should continue buffing until the polish is all gone and the wheel looks finished. When I'm all done, I wipe the entire wheel down with a clean cloth.
On the rears, I remove the lug nut caps and again use the small ball to get the inner edges of the rim and usually use my finger to get in behind the valve stem. I change to the large ball and do the large surface of the rim. I use another clean towel and wipe down the rim and then the center cap. I wipe off each lug nut cap and then reinstall.
To get them looking good initially, you have to spend about 45 plus minutes per wheel. After that, they can be touched up very quickly. Lastly, I found that covering the rims while stored at home, which I see you do in looking at your profile, keeps them looking nice. I put about 10K - 13K a year on the coach and only need to polish the rims about three times a year now.
http://www.irv2.com/attachments/photopost/data/500/medium/Rim.jpg
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Diplomat Don
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05/16/13 01:02am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Norcold refrigerator door lock problem I want a better fix
Some of the Norcold doors use a small plastic washer on the pin that the door hinges on. You lift off the door and drop on a washer that will give you the height you need.
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Diplomat Don
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05/14/13 09:17pm |
General RVing Issues
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RE: Cleaning the curtains in front window of coach
I had our Monaco curtains dry cleaned, but didn't pay to have them pressed. Once I got home, I got the iron out and ironed all the peats. They came out nice.
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Diplomat Don
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05/14/13 09:08pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Opinions on Rubber Roof Condition - Pictures Included
"Fire Up's" roof repair really looked nice. The question I have is which rubber roof did he have. The OP has the 1st generation rubber roof that is like a bicycle tube. You could literally grab between your thumb and finger and pull it up. These roofs did not do well when you coated them because they were just too flexible. The later generation rubber roofs almost felt like a hard plastic and were not flexible.
I would never coat the old flexible rubber roof (don't ask me how I know).
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Diplomat Don
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05/14/13 03:16pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Opinions on Rubber Roof Condition - Pictures Included
After a few years, that generation (1st) of rubber roof will blotch like that. The only issue you will have is that it will flake and run down the sides of the coach when it gets wet. The best thing to do is to apply the recommended conditioner once or twice a year to keep the flaking down. Do it with a foam floor mop.
You did a nice job on sealing the vents with Dicor. If only some of the RV shops would be that professional.
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Diplomat Don
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05/14/13 11:39am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: swap 5k lbs hitch to a 10k lbs hitch
Hitch ratings are determined by many things.....engine size, transmission, brakes, cooling system, frame and tongue weight.
Check what the manufacturer actually calls for as stated above. Worse case scenario, a lightweight aluminum trailer and the Jeep may come pretty close to the 5K mark (keep Jeep light, empty fuel tank until you reach your destination, and remove any quick disconnect stuff like fuel cans, tires, off road gear, etc.)
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Diplomat Don
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05/13/13 10:45pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Cold air intake water bleeder valve- Cummins 350 ISC
It should be between the fresh air intake and the air filter. If so, not a big deal, just another place to pull air in.
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Diplomat Don
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05/13/13 10:39pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Backup monitor location?
If you're going to use it to watch a toad or traffic when changing lanes, you'll want it where it's not to far out of your line of sight. Most coaches that have them as standard equipment put them to the right of the steering wheel.
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Diplomat Don
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05/13/13 08:50pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: I-5 or CA99?
When I posted, I thought they would have finished that stretch through Stockton, but I guess the Republic of California is doing what they do best, hire a six man company to do 10 miles of freeway so that it takes three years and they can hang onto the road improvement money a little longer.
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Diplomat Don
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05/13/13 08:25pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: I-5 or CA99?
Both roads are constantly under construction. We travel from Los Angeles north at least 2-3 times a year. We always take Hwy99. I-5 may be a few minutes faster, but it's soooo desolate.
We take Hwy99 to the Hwy4 that cuts over to Stockton and onto I-5. You'll travel about 50 miles north on I-5 where you'll reach Lodi. Exit Hwy12 off ramp and you'll find multiple gas stations from 76 to AM/PM. They always have some decent prices because of the multiple stations. This point in your trip will put you at about 350 miles depending on where in L.A you started. From Lodi on, you're about 45 minutes out of Sacramento and traverse the maze through Sacramento with a full tank.
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Diplomat Don
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05/13/13 07:24pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Help, Electricalmproblem
augustpilot......When power quits on your Monaco coach, there is pretty much a determined order of the failure that you should check.
Order of checking breakers when on SHORE POWER
Inverter Breakers (two of them)
GFI
Circuit breaker at pedestal
110 volt circuit breakers in coach
Order of checking when on GENERATOR
Circuit breaker on front of generator
Circuit breakers on Inverter
GFI
110 volt circuit breakers in coach
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Diplomat Don
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05/11/13 10:55pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Generator Exhaust Stack
I fabricate pretty much anything my coach needs like shelves, metal brackets etc, but there are just some things that it's better to buy the one made commercially. The Genturi is one of those.
Just so you know, the Genturi won't be the cure all to your noise. It will reduce it some, but gas generators are loud. Add the Genturi and try taking an old piece of dense shag carpet, (about 36' x 36') and throw it on the ground under your generator. A lot of the noise from the gas generators is bouncing off of the ground.
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Diplomat Don
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05/09/13 05:28pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Starter Capacitor - Air Conditioner
Happytracks....Get the model number off of your unit and go to PPL Parts. It can be a little difficult to surf their parts website, but they have a listing for your A/C by model number. It will open up a page that shows the various parts for your A/C unit along with photos. I had another issue, but replaced my start capacitor since I was ordering parts. I found DuoTherm uses a hose clamp to support the capacitor. Mine was squeezed so tight that it distorted the capacitor.
This link is to the actual A/C parts page DuoTherm Parts
When it comes to repairs like this, I'm willing to spend a few dollars to try a part before spending hundreds of dollars on a tech.
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Diplomat Don
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05/09/13 05:20pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: My 12V Problem Is Going To Be a Whole Lot Of Fun
OnaQuest.....Good for you.....even after a cheap shot you still came back to help.....You're cementing another step into heaven!
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Diplomat Don
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05/08/13 11:46pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: A different residential refer question
tropical35.....I just installed the RF197 last week. I wanted it to run on a separate inverter. My coach has a 2000w Magnum Inverter MSW. I added another 600W Magnum MSW inverter just to run the refer. The RF197 is rated at 3.9 amps max load (400-450 watts. My energy management system says it's only drawing 2 amps while running. Another poster with more exacting equipment said he tested the RF197 at about 1.5 amps.
I'm guessing the 3.9 amps max is with the ice maker running and the compressor starting.
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Diplomat Don
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05/08/13 01:47am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Not sure if its' paint or gel coat or ? on roof peeling
Keeter59.....A friend just purchased a used coach and was amazed at the sealant on the roof. Apparently, the previous owner paid an RV shop to reseal the coach each year. All they did was keep reapplying Dicor (white self leveling stuff) on the roof. It was a mess.
The Dicor can be easily removed. Just heat the Dicor with a heat gun and use a plastic putty knife to scrape it off. It will come off pretty quick with a small amount of heat. Once the bulk of it is removed, you can use "Goof Off" or Goo Gone" to wipe off the residue. You can reseal, more carefully, with Dicor.
Your other issue is the clear coat has gone bad. This has been an issue with many brands for several years. If you go to RV shows, you'll see many brands now advertising 4-6 coats of clear to combat this issue and as a selling point.
Last month, I got tired of repairing mine and took it to an RV paint shop. They sanded and repainted the all four sides of the roof line. Depending on where you live, this can cost between $1000.00 to $4000.00. If you're handy, you can repaint yourself, but the issue will return if you don't spray it well and put on lots of clear.
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Diplomat Don
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05/05/13 12:19am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Samsung Refer Install Over Propane Heater (Height Issues)
As "The Texan" said, it came through the front door. I had to unscrew the arm at the top of the door that prevents it from opening past 90 degrees. This allowed the door to swing all the way open, adding 2". I have a manual door awning, so I had to remove one of the awning arms (5 minutes). I also removed the passenger's seat and laid it on the sofa.
The Norcold is only 24" deep when the doors and hinges are off. My front door is 26" wide. I used the cardboard from the refer to protect the dash. It takes two young guys or three old guys to get it out. The Samsung is very light when the doors and shelves are removed.
My onboard Energy Management System shows that the Samsung is only drawing 2 amps or less when running. The refer is rated at 3.9 amps max draw which probably would include start up and ice maker running all at the same time.
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Diplomat Don
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05/04/13 04:29am |
Class A Motorhomes
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