Maybe this will help.
1. Switching to 30lb tanks can help.
2. Are you running an auto-changeover regulator?
3. Are you running TWO-STAGE regulators? Single housing regulators tend to freeze up much more easily as it gets cold and with higher volume propane usage like a furnace.
4. Pouring a pan of hot water over a "forzen" regulator or tank can help get emergency flow going. Make sure you don't get water in the vent or on anything that shouldn't get wet, like a heating pad, etc.
5. A heated mattress pad can help keep you warm and isolate you from the cold mattress.
6. Use synthetic blankets and such to keep moisture off your body at night.
Wish I had better tips for you, that is REALLY COLD! Hang in there!
Geez, you guys have garages bigger than my condo!
Yes, but in Cali you may be paying more for you condo than the garage and house here ;)
We have a 40 x 60 with 14ft over head door. Thought it would be big enough, but then put a stack of TnG lumber in it 'temporarily'
Be careful, it will fill up while the camper is travelling! LOL.
Modern propne tanks have a safety that shuts them off if too fast a flow is detected (it assumes you have a broken line or other major line failure).
If you open your tank valve too quickly, the initial rush of gas to fill the empty lines often triggers this safety. It does not usually clear itself. rather, you must turn off the valve, wait a few minutes, then open it S-L-O-W-L-Y. Just a crack and sneak it open until you hear a type of click as the line is pressurized.
Here's how to clear this problem.
1. Turn off both tanks
2. Turn on a burner on your stove until no air or gas comes out- to bleed the lines. (Yes, no open flames, etc, although the amount of gas would be very minimal if any)
3. Turn off all propane appliances (furnace, fridge, stove, h/w heater, etc
4. Disconnect each tank for a moment (both at once) then reconnect to regulator as normal. You've now cleared any pressure in the lines and hopefully any safety devices.
5. Turn your regulator lever (if auto changeover, else skip this step) to your fullest tank (you did lift it to make sure it was pretty heavy, right? ;) )
6. VERY SLOWLY crack open the valve of your fullest tank just barely, then sneak open the valve just a hair at a time until you hear it click and/or hear a rush of gas. Repeat with 2nd tank, if you have one. If you open it too quickly, you'll hear more of a snap or thunk as the safety valve slams closed.
7. Inspect your lines and regulator, tanks, etc for any leaks.
8. Light a BBQ lighter inside at the stove and hold the flame next to a burner on the stove and turn that burner on. You should get just air that tries to blow out the flame for the first 10-60 secs. Continue until it lights, then light the other burners at the same time and let them burn for about 30 secs, watching for any puffing or struggling flames, surging, etc.
9. Turn off burners and turn on fridge in the usual manner. Once it is lit and running on propane without any alarms (may take one or two cycles as the gas fills the line), you can proceed to the h/w heater, furnace, etc.
Notes: If you do not get any air or gas to the stove when lighting the burners, you don't have any flow. You didn't mention if you were getting air at these burners now or not. Air but not gas is still flow, just have to bleed those lines.
Note 2: If the weather if very cold, tanks can fail to flow at proper rate, which gets worse as the propane level in the tank drops. Dump some hot water on the tank itself (avoid regulator, it has a vent in it!)
Note 3: Feel the regulator and tank valves. If they feel "frosty" cold, you may have cold weather and low propane levels (almost empty tank). High flow rate items make this symptom worse, which is why sometimes your stove burners will work, but not the furnace ;)
Give these steps a shot and let us know how you make out. I had this same problem with our first popup years ago. And I knew better! LOL.
You seem to be getting good help. I would remind you to check your oil level and pay close attention to the troubleshooting guide tests for voltage.
I redesigned a workaround the main board a few years ago as it wouldn't keep the fuel pump running after it started due to a faulty board.
The guide also mentioned it shutting down if the output or rpms are not correct.
I have helped winterize other campers. If the pump direction is hard to decipher, after figuring it out, I write with a permanent market "IN" with an arrow on the incoming side of the pump.
Helps me, the current owner, and any future owners ;-)
If you like driving and are comfortable adding a day or 3 to each show for travel, no problem.
Will you have help driving class A or truck/fw?
Are you satisfied with all those miles in a truck, if a f/w?
We've been thinking about something similar and figured instead of a toad, we could easily rent a car at a destination if needed.
There are A's that are better for constant travel and those that are ok for long term destinations but can nickel and dime you to death.
Those with class A's can shed more light on this.
When dealing with water, remember this rule: Dark Water Stains
Meaning the darkest water that 'touches' your hose, bucket, tank, etc imparts a 'stain' that isn't removed. Once you go grey in a hose, tank, bucket, etc it will NEVER be clear (drinkable/potable).
Once it is used for Black water, it can never be used for clear and must be treated with more care than grey due to heavier contamination and/or smells.
Keep this in mind when dealing with water and protect your potable water and its conveyances.
We bring separate drinking/cooking/coffee water in blue cube totes and set one on the outside table. Our fresh water is only for washing, brushing teeth, flushing, etc.
We have DRASTICALLY reduced our water consumption this way. Mostly we seldom empty one container in up to a week or more. We have started bringing one full and one empty (which we can fill at a fresh water outlet if needed, but mostly is hung in the camper's 'garage' on the pegboard. Easier to handle when empty.
I'd suggest you also fill your grey tank all the way- overfill- once to see what the symptoms are. For us it means the shower stops draining and will actually start filling with water from the sink.
That way you'll recognize it. Not really a big deal, but if you don't realize it is full and keep going...trouble!
Hope this helps.
I think we all should mind our own business when it comes to finances. It's no one elses business as to what each others finance options or needs are. Whether or not someone wants to finance something or get the money from somewhere is their own business and they have to deal with it.
I will say this. If people paid cash for their RV's, then the RV business would be hurting very badly as over half of us would not have an RV.
Unless of course someone *asks* for advice :R
In which case those who are inclined to assist the OP will do so. Those who do not wish to do so are not obligated to post.
Thanks everyone. We will be testing out our TT next weekend for the first time. Looks like it is going to be a bit chilly, but oh well, makes for good camping weather.
Do try it all out in your backyard before making a cool weather trip. Familiarize yourself with the controls and test them out.
Better to spend a night where you can jump online or run to the garage to get a wrench or whatever is needed.
From online pics, I couldn't tell if it is a two piece burner with a cap? If so, lift the cap off the right one an putmit back on.
If the cap is out of place, these kinds of burners will do justmwhat you mention.
A couple of comments.
1. If you want to repack a muffler, no problem- if you understand how. Just don't want casual readers to start stuffing their exhaust *pipes* ;-)
2. All this discussion about accurate measurements etc DO NOT MATTER. Obviously the most important part of the op post is DW noticed it was louder.
3. Whether it is or is not louder is irrelevant. As they say "If Mama ain't happy..." :-)
If it is 30 degrees in the camper the fridge will not run. It's cold enough Right? well the freezer is than 30 degs too. So in order to get the freezer cold and freezing the fridge has to run, so you need to heat up the camper enough to make the fridge run. won't hurt the fridge to run in outside freezing temps. I mad a lot of service calls to people that said their freezers wern't working and then find out they were talking about the one in the garage and it was 30 degrees in the garage or colder. Don't need to run. cold enough. Thermostat is in the refer, not the freezer/
Good point about themostat in fridge area. You can also turn on the anti-humidity setting on some fridges that keeps the internal light bulb turned on. Often it can be enough to overcome this problem- down to a point.
While twisting, tap the cord plastic housing with the back of a screwdriver. Not hard, just enough to break free any debris or electrical 'weld'.
Power should be off at shorepower breaker. Be advised, you could break the plastic end, so consider this emergency procedure, not SOP.
If you can remove it successfully and the electrical connection is ok, you can clean out and lubricate the twist lock channels with a little vaseline. It will lubeand help prevent moisture and bugs/debris from getting in the grooves.
There are other things to lube with that aren'tas sticky, but you only need a dab or two.
Oh, and try pushing in a bit while turning...COUNTERclockwise, right? :-)
I have to read and study many things, then review the results from others, too. Sometimes that interferes with camping time.
I use Evernote to store and sync info between laptops smartphone and tablet. Use offline sync of certain folders, to be reviewed on the tablet with >5hrs battery life.
Get a 10" tablet, which gives lots of viewing space. Add a bluetooth keyboard for frequent typing (I confess I don't always use)
Sitting outside in the sun makes the task not so inconvenient, and tablets can often be charged while driving toad or rv.
Also do not forget that printed pages are easy to take notes, carry with you, and use very little battery once printed :-)
Step 1: UN-Federate the parks and lands
Step 2: WITHOLD states' citizen's tax money from the federal gov't- at least while they are on STRIKE.
Step 3: RE-EVALUATE which items absolutely MUST be managed by the federal gov't and why.
Remember, there is no such thing as 'Federal Monies' to withhold from the country. ALL monies are from the citizens. Simply have each STATE hold whatever tax monies were supposed to go to the federal gov't.
Sort of like escrowing your rent money during a landlord dispute. You are still paying, but 'they' can't get it until they get their******together.
The 'danger' of that is the states may realize they can manage their own resources- such as roads, education, healthcare, and PARKS/LANDS- better without federal interference.
Just like a strike that goes on too long ends up killing the company and losing its customers :B
As for 'protecting' federal lands, the federal gov't either will or will not. They've abandoned their posts, shirked their responsibilities. So it's time to find another solution.
Simple. If they don't want to do their job, someone else would be happy to do so ;)