We use an extang trifecta tri-fold cover. As previously stated, tri-fold types, cover the forward 1/3 of the bed while pulling the 5th and it travels with you. The tri-fold feature is a great improvement over the snap and roll-up type. IMHO
Where did you get the bike cover or what are you using ? Do you travel with the cover on ?
That is an ATV cover. Yes I travel with it on. I use bungee cords to secure it when traveling as shown in the photo.
We use a HD grille cover on our bikes. Cheap and easy to find at any Home Depot or Lowes. Bungee down during travel. On our 3rd yr(1 cover), but we only use the cover while traveling during high bug times.
Our bike rack is a receiver type. I made a bolt-on, angled adapter that the vertical tube of the bike rack slides into.
Hardware - $6.00
Welding supplies - $4.00
Plate and sq stock - $12.00
The new words, I taught the neighbor's kids during assembly - Priceless
X2 - depends on hitch, mine is a sliding bar type and can do/have done 45 degrees plus...
We have a Reese 16k pro (sliding bar style)
Have hooked and unhooked at up to 90° with no troubles.
The 90° hitching is done with slightly more care than a straight shot.
The first time I unhooked/hooked at right angle was to place the 5th parallel to the lakes shoreline per DW request and when she's happy, it's a wonderful camping trip.
This is what works for us.
...full text above...
Finally this unit only has 60K miles - for the brakes to be destroyer in 60K miles is proof that these brakes are under engineered IMO
:h :h :h :h :h :h :S
One scratchy head per 10k, as I've had customers, who can destroy their brakes in under 10k.
The rear rotor trouble wasn't noticed by the owner while braking. :?
60k and you're blaming the engineering?
The avg life of a brake system is 40k. Some get more, some get less mileage from their brakes. Inspections should be done on a regular basis, by a competent mechanic.( key word competent )
BBdawg, I've got a funny feeling that you may the the first to attempt this type of remedy. (The forum may let you know if your mod is unique) Shading an A/C unit, without trapping internal heat should always be a plus. You may be on to something good, possibly damaging or perhaps null.
Your short term observations sound promising. I hope it cures an ill and doesn't cause one. Too bad, you didn't have in housing operating temps (prior to mod) to compare with after mod. (just a thought)
Hope it works, Don (Too many years, in mobile A/C install and repair, but little knowledge of rv roof top units)
Apples & oranges, but my Ford has enough brake to lock up the wheels and scatter stuff all over inside the MH. Still have 65% pads at almost 70k miles.
Same here on our 1992 P30. At 100K miles (front replace once/rear still OEM) the pads are at 50%. Well ours has only locked up on wet pavement but stops very well.
I had my fluid flushed last year and the shop bleed them well. Any air in the system will give soft brakes with any brand chassis.
Most complaints of poor braking performance (p30/f53 with good mechanical's)are straightened out with fluid flush and correct bleeding procedure.
Those spending large dollars with a troubled result, are having their pockets picked by bad mechanics JMHO
If when the starter is energized, it makes a whirring noise, without engine revolution. Then may be a bendix fault.
If just a clicking sound, then more likely an armature fault or weak solenoid.
What ever the fault, during repair, buy the best parts you can afford. You only like cheap parts once.
Nothing but oil and filters. But I'm sure the myth of the expensive diesel repairs will continue here. Keeps the gas guys happy.
And DIESEL MECHANIC$ (No myth, diesel RO's seem to be a tad higher than gas ROs on average.
A little truth in this, I have had bags of potato chips explode on me when going into the mountains.
A very similar thing happened to me, the last time DW had me pick the Chinese take-out order
The boneless rib container EX-sploded as I slowly motored up the hill, on my way home.
"Sweetheart, I had no other choice, but proper disposal... There were no survivors... Really... Wow honey, you should have seen it... There was rib sauce all over me... Really..."
She's now, self appointed T/O food retriever. :h
monkey44 - Aren't CC chips wonderful. They cut my 12 hr commute almost in half, But I haven't noticed the MPG improvement.
I came up with this brilliant idea (in my own mind) to take the roof A/C cover off, clean up the interior and then cover the inside of the a/c cover with Reflextix(available at your local box stores)...full text above...
How about long term effects?
Anyone have any pros/cons on what I did?
Would insulating your roof top A/C cover, help trap excessive heat around the compressor? :h
Spare tires offered now, are mostly undersized temp-use tires, that also have a very limited life.
Proper inflation, 4x4 use, distance traveled and speed restrictions should be observed. Check your owners manual for clarification.
If you dislike what OEM offers, purchase a tire/rim combo, equal to the size your currently running. That's what we do.
I prefer my dogs nose art to clean windows....
We often have vehicles in the shop that have contained multiple rug-rats and their four legged friends.
Occasionally several vehicles at the same time require us to hold an in-shop vote for artistic ability and originality.
During repair job pickup, I informed the owner, that her glass had won the days contest. I said it was unique how the finger prints and the dogs tongue swirls, interacted. She informed me, she had no dog. :h
Good glass cleaner, damp terry and newsprint.
As a previous poster stated, "Sprayway glass cleaner". It seems to be commercial standard in the NE. Most serious detail shops and glaziers use it.
I was told by a detailing old timer, that standard black news print is best for finishing the cleaning of glass. He stated that the ink somehow helps polish the glass and really makes it shine, clearly.
Since, I have used his method with superb results.
We use the rubber web type non-skid material in the RV cabinettes and in woodshop.
If this is the same type of material you are talking about, I wouldn't glue, staple, tape or screw it down.
It needs no fastener. It is super at adhering if it's clean and you need to r&r it, to clean it properly.
I use it in the wood shop to hold a board while machining the edge surface with a router. After several uses, the dust adheres to the web and it's holding strength diminishes. DW states the same stuff loses is non-skid ability in the rv cabinets, over time.
The cure, we've found is to give it a hot, soapy bath and rinse well.
When dry it non-skid properties are renewed.
Some newly bought, non-skid material still has release chem(silicone like stuff)on it and needs to be cleaned prior to use.
This is what works for us.
If you trust the shop/tech enough to start your brake work, trust them to finish the job.
15k of normal brake use, is usually not enough use, to require drum renewal.
Above posters are correct. The "max diameter" was cast into drums, but I've seen cheap imports with the max dia. etched into drum outer surface so lightly, that a thin coat of rust would hide the max statement from view. A mfg spec sheet and an inside mic is the only way, to know for sure. Most, good techs can tell by eye, whether the drum is a go, or a no/go.
Be as concerned about the face of the drum(mag drag area)as you are about shoe contact band. The face should be smooth and ridge free, as well.
Dual machining of a elec brake drum is so high, that renewal is sometimes a better option, when needed.
There are at least 10 used units available on eBay right now. :h
And just when you think they are worth $400 they bid up near list price :h
Kind of my point...I'm looking for a used one that sells at a used price, not $100 beleow the price of a new one.
They are are worth what they sell for.
Not true, they are worth what some idiot is willing to pay for them. At this rate, maybe I'll sell my 2000 on fleabay and get a 3000...
Sorry to hear you dislike eBay.
We think it's almost the greatest thing since sliced bread.
Clean, well presented, used eu2000i's, listed on eBay, regularly command an amount, close to the price, retail discounters ask for new units. (eu2000i list price, is somewhere in the $1200-1400 range and are offered in the range of $950-1100 by most. It's the reason we bought the red pair, not the yellow ones, was due to holding high value.)
Calling the purchaser of an item, who is willing to out spend you, an idiot, is just wrong.
Selling for the highest availing price is called the free-market system. It's the great American way.
Check out the Champion, half the price of the Honda.....
But the last time I looked at a Champion 2000 it didnt have an electric start. Perhaps that is why they are cheaper than a Honda!!!
Honda 2000 don't have electric start. but, heck they don't need it.
They start so easy, DW can fire them off. (It's kinda like having remote control, actually.)
We went through the same thing last month and God knows we love a bargain, but the Honda eu2000i's won in the end.
The "bargain priced" units also, seem to be offered, often as "refurbished" on a lot of sites. (Telling us, the mfgr. can't get it right, the first time.)
I guess it was long term reputation and mfg quality, plus the more expensive Yarmahas and Hondas seem to hold value. Clean, used units were selling for the same price on eBay, as we paid for our's new.
We got an eu2000i, an eu2000i companion, a parallel cable kit and a rv plug adapter for $1959.00, delivered (price included double boxing with foam for shipping protection.)