WE were on 69 in August and some construction north of Ft Wayne, but being in the country no problem. If you take I-24 to Chattanooga you will encounter Monteagle on your route. Going east it is about a 4 mile up hill 5% grade and 6 mile down hill with up to a 6% grade. Just take your time and watch your speed.
Well, they walk on the roof to build them. If there is a ladder it will be easier to access. If in doubt as to where to step, roof joist usually are easy to see where they are located. Roof joist will be front and back of each roof vent, and they 16" on center either way.
The three things to look for in a used trailer are leaks, leaks, leaks. Yes I this know from experience. Get a good BRIGHT flashlight and look into every place you can, especially cabinets under tub/shower, storage compartments. Walk the roof looking for soft spots, and signs of damage. Also condition of roof. Is it clean or very dirty, which shows lack of care. Check all vents and roof penetration's. Look around all parts of slides in and out, for signs of water, either damp or stains. Check every appliance to make sure that they work. Pull out awning. Look under trailer for any signs of damage or again water damage. If trailer is open below, feel along inside of bottom of walls for soft spots. especially at corners. Check all corners inside and out.
Also what kind of weather will you be living in? If is will be very cold out, most trailers will be uncomfortable unless they are made for extreme weather.
WE live in Central Tennessee, and in the last year twice traveled I65, to Gary and to I69 in Port Huron. I do not remember any bad sections. There was some construction on I69 around Fort Wayne area, but it was in a rural area. We have traveled both ways may times over the last 30 years, and prefer I65 to I69, even though it is longer to get to Canada where we have family. Less traffic and major cities to go though.
Where are you headed too? The only mountain that I know of near Chattanooga is on I24 at Mount Eagle, which I have also traveled a lot.
Unless you have a CLEAN air compressor, I do not recommend blowing out water lines. Air composure tanks have rusty water, and oil in them from the compressing of the air. You will contaminate your potable water system.
RV antifreeze needs to feed into pump from the same line that is connected between your fresh water tank and pump. It sounds like you are connected to pump outlet line. Just switch to other side of pump and see if that helps. If line is difficult to get to, you may be able to get a piece of line and connect to pump inlet. Then stick other end in jug of antifreeze.
Also make sure that you use RV antifreeze , vehicle kind is POISON.
Your computer in the vehicle does two things. I collects information from sensors, then the computer uses this information to control the engine components to run the engine, Etc. If the light comes on, it is either the computer is looking for information that it is not getting, it is trying to control something that will not respond. Only an OBD II scanner can read the codes.
RV manufacturer will not be able to help you with codes, you need to get information from Chassis maker. Once I know code number I type in Mfg., year and code on internet. Then you may be able to find solution.
Auto place scanners are very generic, and sometimes I have to go to a Mfg. dealer to solve problem.
I my memory serves me correctly, could this be the trailer used to quarantine astronauts from first Moon mission? There was a trailer like this on the deck of the aircraft carrier the picked them up. Not knowing if there might be some harmful bacteria on the moon, they spent time in the trailer until doctors were sure that there was not problem.
Hi Mark, this is how I have handled the problem. Sorry but I do not have any pictures. Joist do run the length of the trailer, but joist below wall are supported by metal "out rigger braces" every so often. You just have to cut back to good wood before brace, where you can do a splice.
Whenever I have had to replace bad flooring in a RV trailer, I work from the top down. The membrane on the bottom of the trailer is usually a fiberglass reinforced waterproof material. Once you take up flooring you will probably see several joist that need to be replaced too. On one of my trailers I replaced about 20 SQ feet of floor and joist in the back corner under the tub, and on my neighbors trailer we replaced about 50 SQ feet of floor and joist in the front bedroom due to leaking storage doors. Here is how is was done: On one rain water came in at a damaged refrigerator vent and ran back under the tub in the adjacent bathroom. On the other storage doors for an under bed storage area leaked. You will need to take out any cabinets or items in the area of the damage. I ended up replacing floor joist, and some wall studs too. There are two kinds of wall construction, on some trailers the wall extends past the floor platform which makes removing damaged floor easier. On others the wall sets on the floor plate, and the wood flooring has to be removed from under the wall, then to reinstall you need to jack up roof enough to lift wall so that you can get new floor material under the wall. To remove damaged flooring I used "skill" saw set for about 3/4" deep to get back to good material. To remove damaged joist I used a "triangular shape blade" for my saber saw that lets you cut flush to another surface. If I was working up to a material that could be damaged, I placed a small piece of aluminum sheet below item to cut so as not do damage adjacent surface at end of cut. Also used a "Drummel" rotary tool in some tight places. Used deck screws to install new joist. Predrilled member to attach, so it would pull up tight to exist joist. Used screws to install flooring too. If you need more information send me a PM.
I have found that a lot of shaking comes from the "landing gear legs". If you pull the pin and drop legs, just before contact with ground, wiggle end at plate and you can see how much movement there is. What I do is once plate is in contact with ground, and there is a little weight on leg, I push one leg out and back and the other out and forward. This seems to help with shaking for me. Not a cure all, but it does help.
Originally Radial tires were not recommended to be X rotated. Just front to back. BUT, just about every car or truck manual that I look at now, recommends X rotating. (Unless you have a tire that is make to rotate in only one direction). I have found that if you do not X rotate, the tires will develop rough edges in one direction, that continue to get more noticeable. This will cause tires to make a loud noise, kind of a Whirring sound. I have seen tires so noisy that I have actually switched all 4 of them side to side to reverse rotation, to control noise.
I believe in rotating my trailer tires. I do this since I am not sure that wheels are in perfect alignment, and weight and driving conditions effect each tire differently. I rotate tires whenever I re-pack bearings or check brakes, which is about every 12,000 miles. Current tires have about 35,000 miles on them and will probably replace soon, as they are about 7 or 8 years old.
Are you talking about the "Towing Vehicle" or the "Towed Vehicle"? If it is the towing vehicle, yes synthetic would be better.
If you are talking about a vehicle that you are pulling,(towed) using synthetic will not keep from the need of a "pump" to circulate fluid. If vehicle manufacturer says that you can tow/pull all four down then, fluid type would not make any difference.
All rotors will rust, even overnight if the humidify is high. Also some rotors will make noise until the rust it wore off. Unless rotors are "pulsing" when you put the brake on,(you feel vibration) they do not need to be replaced. I would take it to another place for second opinion. I can tell you horror stories of people who went to Big Name places and told it would cost $700 or $800 to replace everything. I was able to just replace the bad parts for less them $100.
NOTE: I think my point was missed. Brake place said rotors, pads calipers back drums, back shoes, back cylinders. BUT, vehicle only needed front pads and one rotor. My point is that customer was getting RIPPED off, with saying that unnecessary items needed to be replaced, when in fact nothing was wrong with them.