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Forum
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RE: Re-packing bearings
You are much better off to pack the wheel bearing by hand, then to use the Zerk fitting. If you check the "forum" you will find a lot of problems from over greasing the bearings. Grease is not like motor oil that it is used as you drive. My F250 recommends 60K intervals for greasing front bearings. Or about 5 years. I did them at 58K and they were in perfect condition. I have seen some vehicles go 100K before greasing. Om my 5th I try to do the bearing about every 12K, more to inspect brakes then worry about bearings.
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Dr Quick
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05/20/13 05:20pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Push rivets for awning? & Replacing fabric?
On my current awning, which think is 19' long, I had to replace the front spring/mechanism. The catch had gone bad, It was the new and improved catch that some one dreamed up in the late 90's? I unwound the spring 6 turns to replace the assembly. The directions for installing the new spring had recommend more turns, which I foolishly followed, but it was way to tight, so I had to back it off and that was hard to do.
This was all done while awning was in place.
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Dr Quick
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05/16/13 08:07am |
Travel Trailers
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RE: repair of bad floor - part #2
Once you open up damaged area, you may find where water came in. But like midnighshade says, first fix leak. Water can run down inside a wall and will show up as a floor problem.
When ever I have had to replace bad flooring in a RV trailer, I work from the top down. The membrane on the bottom of the trailer is usually a fiberglass reinforced waterproof material. Once you take up flooring you will probably see several joist that need to be replaced too. On one of my trailers I replaced about 20 SQ feet of floor and joist in the back corner under the tub, and on my neighbors trailer we replaced about 50 SQ feet of floor and joist in the front bedroom due to leaking storage doors. Here is how is was done: On one rain water came in at a damaged refrigerator vent and ran back under the tub in the adjacent bathroom. On the other storage doors for an under bed storage area leaked. You will need to take out any cabinets or items in the area of the damage. I ended up replacing floor joist, and some wall studs too. There are two kinds of wall construction, on some trailers the wall extends past the floor platform which make removing damaged floor easier. On others the wall sets on the floor plate, and the wood flooring has to be removed from under the wall, then to reinstall you need to jack up roof enough to lift wall so that you can get new floor material under the wall. If you need more information send me a PM
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Dr Quick
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05/14/13 07:13am |
Travel Trailers
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RE: Push rivets for awning? & Replacing fabric?
This should help. They are just "Pop Rivets". Very easy to work with, just need access to a pop rivet installer.
I recently gave these directions to someone else on the RV Net, and he wrote me back and thanked me, as he said he was done in an hour. This is how I helped my neighbor replace two awnings. You will need two helpers. Flip "open catch" and pull awning about about 2 or 3 inches. Unhook bottom end of legs and drop leg to ground using extension legs to take weight of awning. Unbolt top bolts to trailer and take out screw that keeps awning in place from sliding back and forth. Get one person on each end of awning and slide it out of track. Lay awning on ground and place a block of wood or a pail under each end near tube. DO NOT TRY TO TAKE AWNING ARMS OFF ENDS OF SHAFT.KEEPING IT ATTCHED KEEPS SPRINGS FROM UNWINDING. Unwrap fabric from tube. Drill out pop rivets at rear,non-catch end of tube. Slide end cap off tube 2 or 3 inches to allow clearance to slide fabric off.(DO NOT PULL ALL THE WAY OUT AS SPRING WILL UNWIND. SPRING IS ABOUT 18 INCHES LONG.) Slide new fabric on, and re wrap fabric. Slide end cap in place and pop rivet. Get one person at each end of awning support, and have third on ladder to guide awning into rail. Once awning is in place, bolt to trailer, center fabric between supports and install screw. Lift legs in to lower catches. Flip ratchet lock and awning will close. This way you do not have to deal with springs.
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Dr Quick
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05/12/13 07:14am |
Travel Trailers
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RE: Awning fabric
I recently gave these directions to someone else on the RV Net, and he wrote me back and thanked me, as he said he was done in an hour. This is how I helped my neighbor replace two awnings. You will need two helpers. Flip "open catch" and pull awning about about 2 or 3 inches. Unhook bottom end of legs and drop leg to ground using extension legs to take weight of awning. Unbolt top bolts to trailer and take out screw that keeps awning in place from sliding back and forth. Get one person on each end of awning and slide it out of track. Lay awning on ground and place a block of wood or a pail under each end near tube. DO NOT TRY TO TAKE AWNING ARMS OFF ENDS OF SHAFT.KEEPING IT ATTCHED KEEPS SPRINGS FROM UNWINDING. Unwrap fabric from tube. Drill out pop rivets at rear,non-catch end of tube. Slide end cap off tube 2 or 3 inches to allow clearance to slide fabric off.(DO NOT PULL ALL THE WAY OUT AS SPRING WILL UNWIND. SPRING IS ABOUT 18 INCHES LONG.) Slide new fabric on, and re wrap fabric. Slide end cap in place and pop rivet. Get one person at each end of awning support, and have third on ladder to guide awning into rail. Once awning is in place, bolt to trailer, center fabric between supports and install screw. Lift legs in to lower catches. Flip ratchet lock and awning will close. This way you do not have to deal with springs.
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Dr Quick
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05/10/13 05:43pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Max tire pressure vs Load on tires
I have been working on vehicles for over 50 years, and never seen a tire fail if keep at recommended pressure. My truck tires have a max load pressure of 80 PSI, vehicle recommendation is 50 PSI for front tires. If I went by tire rating, tires would be 60% over inflated, which would effect ride and handling.
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Dr Quick
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04/24/13 10:51am |
General RVing Issues
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RE: F350 a/c
Here is the correct way to operate a Vehicle AC. When you first get in vehicle, lower some windows a bit to get the very hot air out. Turn AC on to high fan normal mode as this will help to push very hot air out. Once AC is cooling fairly well, switch AC to recirc/max and close windows.
The reason for this is that when you take in outside air and it is hot out, you are trying to drop the temperature of very hot air. Once vehicle is starting to cool off inside, by using recirc, you are trying to drop the temperature of air that is several degrees cooler, and system will be more efficient. Once temperature inside of vehicle is comfortable, and all inside surfaces have given up their heat and are now cooler, you can go back to outside air if you want.
If a house/RV system used all outside air to cool, your house/RV would never get cool.
Also on all my vehicles I have Sun Shades at top of windows, this lets me keep windows open a bit when vehicles are parked. This keeps rain out, and inside of vehicle will be cooler too when parked in the hot sun.:)
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Dr Quick
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04/24/13 10:27am |
Tech Issues
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RE: duramax temps
I would call an parts store and tell them that you need a new thermostat and find out what heat range then have for your engine.
I do not work on diesels, but a V8 gas truck engine will usually have a 195 degree T-stat and operating temperature will be in the low 200's under normal conditions.
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Dr Quick
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04/22/13 01:06pm |
Fifth-Wheels
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RE: Nova Scotia
We went to PEI and Nova Scotia a few years ago. I would recommend that for Nova Scotia that you have a updated GPS or a current map available from visitors center, as road markings and directions we found out to be bad. AS for getting to PEI island, you have the choice of the ferry or the bridge. You pay to get off the island, ferry is by the length of your rig, and bridge is a flat rate. We saved about $30 by leaving on the bridge. At Anne of Green Gables stayed at New Glasgow Highland campground and liked it very well. They even had free passes to Green Gables for campground guest. Nice clean place with good size sites and lots of trees.
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Dr Quick
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04/20/13 07:36am |
Roads and Routes
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RE: 1992 Winnebago 27' 454 Radiator Fan Question
In all vehicles that I have worked on with an electric fan for the radiator, the fan is programmed to come on when you engage the AC. The reason for this that the engine may not be hot enough for needing cooling. But AC condenser coil in front of the radiator must have air moving through it for AC to do any cooling. Any AC unit even for your house must have air moving through the coil in order to get rid of the heat removed from the place being cooled.
However it may be possible that if the electric fan is a supplemental fan, it may not come on if there is an engine fan working.
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Dr Quick
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04/18/13 02:54pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Best Oil Filter
Hi searfoss: Sorry for the delay in answering your question on what to use for lifter noise. I could not remember the name, so I had to go back to the auto parts store yesterday. The brand recommended was "Reslon".
Hope this helps.
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Dr Quick
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04/17/13 06:53am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Best Oil Filter
The tick may be a sticky lifter, try some oil additive for that. I used some on a friend's van and within a week noise was gone.
I like wix and KV filters. Purolator is good too. Have seen lots of problems with Fram on various Internet sites.
As far as oil either 5-20 or 5-30 would be recommendation based on your area. I have a F250 gas and use Mobil full synthetic.
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Dr Quick
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04/13/13 10:14am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Black Water Tank Question
Also it is a good idea to put 4 or 5 gallons of water down the toilet before you leave home. Water movement will help to clean tank and aid when you are dumping. Just remember to keep the black water tank valve close, until you are ready to dump. RV toilets use very little water, and if tank is left open, it will clog up. We usually dump the black tank every two or three days when traveling unless we know that the next place will not have somewhere to dump. Then dump grey tank as that way it will help to clean out dump hose. For flushing I have a "Wand" that I put down through the toilet to rinse tank.
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Dr Quick
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04/11/13 01:12pm |
Beginning RVing
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RE: Checking for brake wear
I presume that you have electric drum brakes. As mentioned the only way to see what the condition of the brakes, is to remove drum and visually inspect. If you have riveted shoes, when you are about 1/16" to the rivets, if you have bonded shoes, when then you are getting close to 1/16" at the thinnest point. In between inspections the brakes need to be adjusted on a regular schedule.
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Dr Quick
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04/11/13 01:03pm |
Fifth-Wheels
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RE: Misfire, no power, my folks are stranded- please help
Sounds like a fuel problem for sure. My suggestions are, if it is an intake fuel pump, bag filter could be messed up from junk in tank. Next would be possibly Throttle Position Sensor is bad, as it idles OK, but once you try to move it sounds like it is starving for gas. TPS not giving correct information to computer for proper amount of fuel.
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Dr Quick
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04/09/13 07:41am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Ducted A/C vs Non-Ducted
I have had both, in my previous trailer non-duct, and current one ducted. I really can not recall any difference in noise to me. But with the ducted one I have had problems with ducts leaking to the extent I could feel air blowing out at my antenna roof crank. I have had to re-seal all the outlets where duct perpetrated ceiling, as at every one of them the original tape had dried out and came off and most of it was not sealing at all.
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Dr Quick
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04/08/13 12:09pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Niagra Falls to UP Mich
i would recommend that once in Canada that you head for the shortest route to the 401. Take 401 to 402 ouside of London. Cross over to US in Port Huron, Then take I-69 to I-75 and 75 north to the bridge.
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Dr Quick
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04/04/13 05:48pm |
Roads and Routes
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RE: Ideas on moving a wall
The wall may be secured to the ceiling panel from above. Walls are usualy installed before the roof is put on. On one small 5th I needed to remove the partial wall at the step up. I had to remove the paneling, then take out the screws to the floor. I could not get the top screws out to remove the wall as they came in from above. I ended up sloping the wall enought to get the carpet out at the step up area. Then installed new carpet, and had to reattach wall and put paneling back in place.
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Dr Quick
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04/04/13 05:38pm |
Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
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RE: Ford fuel pump
Airtex is the only fuel pump that I have ever had a problem with. Here is a website that has some great price on fuel pumps. I think that they even list OEM. http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/search/?Ntt=Fuel Pump
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Dr Quick
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04/04/13 08:25am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Replace Awning Fabric 25 Foot
I recently gave these directions to someone else on the RV Net, and he wrote me back and thanked me, as he said he was done in an hour. This is how I helped my neighbor replace two awnings. You will need two helpers. Flip "open catch" and pull awning about about 2 or 3 inches. Unhook bottom end of legs and drop leg to ground using extension legs to take weight off awning. Unbolt top bolts to trailer and take out screw that keeps awning in place from sliding back and forth. Get one person on each end of awning and slide it out of track. Lay awning on ground and place a block of wood or a pail under each end near tube. DO NOT TRY TO TAKE AWNING ARMS OFF ENDS OF SHAFT.KEEPING IT ATTCHED KEEPS SPRINGS FROM UNWINDING. Unwrap fabric from tube. Drill out pop rivets at rear,non-catch end of tube. Slide end cap off tube 2 or 3 inches to allow clearance to slide fabric off.(DO NOT PULL ALL THE WAY OUT AS SPRING WILL UNWIND. SPRING IS ABOUT 18 INCHES LONG.) Slide new fabric on, and re wrap fabric. Slide end cap in place and pop rivet. Get one person at each end of awning support, and have third on ladder to guide awning into rail. Once awning is in place, bolt to trailer, center fabric between supports and install screw. Lift legs in to lower catches. Flip ratchet lock and awning will close. This way you do not have to deal with springs.
Hope this helps, If you need more informaton you can PM
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Dr Quick
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04/03/13 01:56pm |
Travel Trailers
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