Pnichols, thanks for the info on the life of your batteries. They are the same ones I have (although I only have one now) and it looks like keeping them fully charged on your converter has done the trick for long life.
I tried keeping the RV plugged in and tried a trickle charger from Harbor Freight, but in both cases didn't keep at it. I would guess I kept them at low charge too much of the time, cycling them deeply when boondocking, not recharging regularly.
The remaining Interstate does keep its charge over time, starts out at a good 13.6 or so but seems to lose power quickly under load.
We found the chassis Duralast battery completely dead one day and started it up with the Vector charger on boost. After that it worked about a month and then wouldn't take a charge. Don't think it should have gone dead the first time unless there is a phantom load I don't know about. Hard to believe it would go bad so fast after one dead battery incident either though. It has been winter in AZ too which is less hard on batteries than the summer heat.
I'm thinking about getting one for cross country to Indiana and Illinois this summer. Not many toll roads in the area but if there are, stopping to pay is getting really painful and cruising through with the EZ Pass is just too easy.
I have read that the overhang does not impact the box and it works just fine from a class C in the typical center mirror spot. My sister has one but does not attach it at all, just removes it from the console when moving through the toll gates and then stores it back out of sight.
We have a 22' RV with a carrier on the back making it about 24' total. We drive it all over cities and towns and have only been limited by underground garages and some airports. It maneuvers city streets, and parks well in open lots. We usually back it into a place on the edge of a lot, let it hang over the edge a foot or so and it takes only one space. Going longer than 25' will probably be just as comfortable to drive and park in malls, Walmarts, etc., but it would be more difficult to park in smaller parking lots at museums and restaurants.
Upon further research, PPL who carries just about everything, shows roof edge but without a spec drawing.
PPL Roof Edging
All-Rite offers the most variety of molding types with drawings and measurements for each.
I could use some new edge molding too. I could try the Winnebago parts stores too. I hate that their items and prices are not online though. I emailed one of those companies asking about window latches, sending the item number and all the information they requested for a quote, and never heard anything back from them.
It is easy to find the vinyl trim that fits into the metal molding but much harder to find the molding itself.
I tried ebay but our Itasca trim is white and this looks aluminum.
Trailer molding on Ebay
I have the DCM0100 Interstate AGM. I thought it was dead when I measured it, BUT I think the battery in the cheap meter I was using was going out. I put a new battery in the meter and got a normal reading. So maybe the late night purchase of a new Walmart EverSTART (not LAST :S) was unnecessary. It is the Marine 29DC, the biggest one they had @ 13" long, DC is for Deep Cycle, rated at 125 amps @ 1 hour so something less than that, I forget the formula to convert to amps @ 20 hours.
I murdered one of the DCM100's. Bought them both used from an elevator guy. He could turn them in for $30 or sell them for $75. I thought it was a good deal. They were supposed to be almost new and looked it. One lasted two years and the other is still going even with my efforts to kill it. I tried tipping the dead one and deep charging with two different battery chargers. No luck.
The chassis Duralast replacement battery was "free" but it will only be replaced again before the 36 month warranty from the original purchase is over. I don't think that is a bad deal really, 36 months of guaranteed battery life, even if it fails 3 times in those 3 years.
I use a Scan Gauge and checked alternator output after the new battery was installed, during our weekend trip, and that seems good. Does not seem to be a problem there. The connections were not at all corroded when the battery failed. Maybe the isolator? The Winnebago has the Intellitec disconnect and isolator.
Friday night I returned the chassis Duralast AGM to Autozone for a warranty replacement after 13 of the 36 months. The alternator is putting out 13.8 to about 14.2 while driving according to the Scan Gauge, so I don't think it is a problem with the alternator as the sales guy said. (Couldn't be a product issue, could it?)
The test took about 1 1/2 hours but the guy concurred with me that it was bad. The new battery is good for the rest of the warranty period though.
I also bought a regular lead acid at Walmart, the Everlast 29DC, for the coach. Mostly because it was the night before we were leaving on a trip and the AGM was low.
I am tired of babying the Interstate AGM that seems to hold current fine with no load, but not very long with a load. I hope to have this one battery last at least the 12 months it is warranted for, even though I'm losing amp hours by switching, new lead acid should work better than aging AGM.
I have put off replacing the converter and therefore buying new AGM batteries. I suppose buying this Walmart battery puts off those decisions now until this one gives out or until we need more power.
When ours was new we needed to clean the spark arrestor too. What a pain to get the bolts out! I remember the air filter was a bit of a challenge but persistence paid off. However, I can't figure out how to get to the spark plug so I just didn't change that even though I bought one. Ended up having to get a new carburetor though which was about $300. I didn't try sea foam which others say fix the carb problem. From the looks of the removed one, ours was badly gummed up. Thick yellow gunk inside. Now I exercise ours regularly to avoid the build up. Good luck with yours.
Crazy ebay, I paid about $6 at the Tempe Ikea for the lap table. They were a "special" item at the checkout area. Ikea is extremely expensive for shipping anyway so if you are close enough to an Ikea in your travels, it is worth it to stop in and see if you can add a gadget or three. They have a gazillion items and the clearance room is always entertaining too.
I just purchased a lap/bed tray with removable legs that fits exactly over the sink (without the legs). I'm not sure if it will be useful yet, or just in the way. I really wanted a flip up counter, but I don't have enough room anywhere near the kitchen area to install one.
If you decide what you need, you surely can find it. Many mid-90's 24'-29' class C's and 30-34' class a's are available (Even a 28' Safari!). Just look at phoenix.craigslist.com. I usually limit to for sale by owner. Lots of choices in your price range right now. Fly out and drive home, buying and trading your way back.
Yeah, that is interesting about the degree of depreciation per year for a larger motor home. We bought a 6 year old coach with about 20,000 miles for 48% of a discounted new price (without options, according to the new retail price on nada.) We paid about $1000 over low nada and $3,000 under high at the time.
We spent so much less than getting a new coach and have had good luck overall, plus have had a lot of fun. The worst issue was the rot in the back but that is fixed now. I just looked up current nada value and it has depreciated to approximately 32% of new at 10 years old in 2013. The chart you posted shows it should be at about 26% of new at 10 years old so that seems like your chart is depreciating a year or two faster than ours has. That is about $7000 of depreciation in 3 years. I guess that is better than $25,000 in 3 years for a new mid-priced model.
It depends on how you want to spend your money and also how you want to camp. It would be a shame to take a new coach down some of the roads we have traveled, but we can justify that since we put less money into the original purchase. Do you care that much about the color? If so you might pass for that reason alone. But financially, I think buying an RV in good condition used is a better use of my money. There is plenty to spend money on even with a used coach--so you have more to work with for the stuff you don't have if you have not been an RV'er.
So far all we have done to our 2003 (2002 chassis) is replace the thermostat (other than consumables like the battery, tires and fluids.) We have had it three years and put about 15,000 miles on it.
The spark plug issue was really "fixed" in 2000 and then there were still a few issues and it was re-fixed. When I was doing the research on the problem it was pointed out that only a few vehicles were affected and that most had no problems, even with the faulty 98 and 99 vehicles. The spark plugs are not replaced until 100,000 miles and starting with only 15,000 that will take awhile.
Expect less than 10 mpg though. We sometimes get 10, but now that I take lots of "equipment" along, we get more like 8 or 9. Never saw below 7.5 due to wind, but maybe I wasn't looking. They say the larger ones get about the same mileage as the shorter ones since it the wind resistance that hurts mileage.
The biggest issue with a used coach is probably the condition of the house part. So many leak and rot out parts of them, especially may not have been noticed if it was sitting a lot of its life. Then the refrigerator is an expensive replacement. Our oven didn't work and it still doesn't after I've replaced almost every part! But we love ours too and I like to tinker with it.
I didn't get streaks with RMP3. Did you use Zep? I stripped it once after a year or so and recoated. The second time I got peeling on the cabover. I think the prep was not as thorough as the first time I did it. The prep is really important. Scrubbing with the fine abrasive of Bar Keeper's Friend and then washing VERY well and rinsing well is required or the acrylic coating will show marks not from the coating itself but it may be showing up the streaks you left when you washed it. Just a thought.
Ha! I thought someone would recognize the thrill of conquest adding more junk to the RV.
I almost regretted buying the Weber when I started cleaning it. I thought it was just a little dirty, but it was very dirty. I ended up soaking the grill in a solution of Awesome grill cleaner and water and going at it today again. I finally got down to the metal after several scrapings and scrubbing with 3M. The body itself was easier going although that took several scourings as well. Now that I did all that work, I think I'll be more interested in keeping it at home. Those are the nicest little grills though.
What do you use for a search word? I like CL too but have not had any luck with any rv stuff
I might have a better searching area because I live near Mesa, where there are so many RV's (and in-ground pools and golf courses). I don't use search on CL for RV stuff, just go to the RV category and my area of the city so I don't look at the west side. Some seasons seem to have more postings than others. When it is cool here, there is more energy for action, like cleaning out garages, getting the RV ready for sale, etc. Plus the population is higher now due to snowbirds. :B
I didn't have to know these, but find them fascinating--I find myself grouping them by theme, past jobs, camping/rv related, internet or call sign handles, real names, pets, vehicles, and nicknames. Did I miss any? Combos of more than one of the types maybe?
My first choice was taken too. So I used the number given to my initials by the Northern Arizona University email techs when I was a student there. Except I added the zero because I thought that 360 was appropriate for starting on the path to RV'ing--wanting to go in all directions. So mine is a combo--email handle, name, and RV'ing.
Lucky for me I don't read Craigslist regularly. This time of year, here in Phoenix, there are several good posts of RV's to drool over and all kinds of stuff for sale.
I could not resist a posting yesterday that had several items on my wish list. So I drove over and bought some stuff from one of the nicest guys. Wish I needed a tow bar and a 50 amp surge protector, but having a small RV means I needed 30 amp instead and we don't tow. Too bad as they were both hardly used and in excellent shape.
I'm excited that I could fit some more "essentials" in the RV--a foldable ladder, a small hand vacuum, several bottles of thetford chemicals, a container of fat sticks, a drawer full of propane bottles, a baby Q with a stand and a nice aluminum roll up table.
I had been watching for another Weber for the deck, they seldom go on clearance anymore, so I was glad to find one, maybe my son will borrow it too. He "borrowed" my platform ladder so I also got another one of those from this guy.
Quite a haul for one day and not very much $$ considering how I absolutely needed, well wanted, most of the stuff. Although I do worry I may be over-stocked. Maybe it is time to go weigh the RV for travel again.
I know you can get scammed on Craigslist, but I have had a good time buying stuff from other RV'ers. Nice to see that folks can be reasonable and kind.
I recently moved mine closer to the other dials like BruceMc's installation. I tried placing it on the steering column but I wasn't happy with covering the trip mile gauge in the instrument panel. I had mine below and to the right of the steering column to hide most of the cable, but found that it was too hard to glance at and change buttons. I think the further it is from the instrument panel, the more difficult it is to get full use of the functions. There is an RJ45 (appears to be RJ45 anyway) connector at the rear of the gauge as well as the side so either is usable depending on where you mount it.