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 > Your search for posts made by 'EMD360' found 40 matches.

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RE: fill MH propane tank

Fittings may be the same but all portable tank fillers cannot fill RV tanks. Our local rental store has a big tank but the can only fill portable tanks. Maybe it is the weight issue, I'm not sure. The "Next Exit" book shows if a gas station has propane on the road. One of our Ace locations and one UHaul has propane for RV's.
EMD360 05/04/16 10:40am Class C Motorhomes
RE: How do you level a motorhome front to back?

You can determine if your trim represents the floor by placing a level on the floor, then place it against the trim. If the bubble is in the same place, then the two match. That is easy enough to determine the accuracy of your reference point. I'm going to try that. I'm just curious if my logic was a reasonable option. You are right. "Good enough is the enemy of best."
EMD360 04/26/16 09:15pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: How do you level a motorhome front to back?

I didn't level the coach perfectly. I stuck the levels on even with the door and dash trim. When I use them to help level, I use a bubble level in the refrigerator to make the final judgement. Half a bubble out of level is acceptable. I can't really tell the difference inside between that and completely level bubble in the middle. The graduated levels probably are not all that accurate anyway. We keep as level as we can to extend the life of our refrigerator and to make the water drain well. Was there something wrong with my cab trim logic? I may have overlooked something about leveling. I am obviously not a perfectionist. :)
EMD360 04/26/16 09:09am Class C Motorhomes
RE: How do you level a motorhome front to back?

I bought a set of these levels-- http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/7172BKgN%2B3L._SL1500_.jpg width=400 and mounted them inside. They might be the Hoppy levels the others mentioned. The graduated marks are for inches out of level. Now we can tell if the campsite is level without leaving the RV. Also lets us know how many inches of blocks approximately for each side or front to back. We always support both rear tires too. We use a combination of tri-levels, the ramp type of blocks and the plastic squares. Asphalt can be difficult to level on if the blocks get pushed out of place by the tires. But for the most part these levels have simplified the process for us. By the way, I realized the RV does not have to be level to apply these. Just apply level with the interior door and dash trim.
EMD360 04/23/16 07:36am Class C Motorhomes
Snow is worse than rain

We took the cover off for a March trip that we had to cancel due to the heavy snow and wind during spring break here. Because I had de-winterized, I left the heat on and ran an electric oil heater inside. Heat inside and snow outside seems to suck in water. Yesterday when I turned off the heat I noticed water infiltration in the cabover above the left window! The material at the ceiling is darkened. Of course that is a sickening feeling in the gut. I noticed moisture before we bought the cover in the front cabover corners after such a snow with heat turned on inside. I recaulked and there were no leaks all summer despite heavy rainfall. It may just be time to recaulk again, but I'm thinking a full eternabond taping for the front seams is in the future. A garage or awning might be nice but we are too busy working on our house remodel.
EMD360 04/23/16 07:17am Class C Motorhomes
RE: 2008 Fleetwood Jamboree 26J

One source of the specs on that model: Fleetwood 2008 Jamboree 26J The floorplan is a corner bed model and no couch. https://encrypted-tbn2.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcQHk5aJR-_FOF50dp6FVpTUFb4AeLsTnOsaUrFObxykAVQ5hD0aJA width=400 The price is great though and a good model to hit the road to see if you love RVing. Some here would not buy a corner bed, or just a cabover like we have, but we are still agile enough to get into the cabover and don't mind the slight disturbance from night bathroom visits. We like the short length. This one is 27' actual length, which is a bit long for a corner bed model--some are only 25'. We drove ours for a year before we replaced the tires it came with, two new and four older tires. You take a chance with older tires but if you are just camping locally, it may be worth the time to see what else is wrong with it.
EMD360 04/21/16 10:33am Class C Motorhomes
RE: My Holding Tank heater is flappin....

I put in my own heating pads and reinforced their adhesive with double stick 3M tape that is recommended for adhering solar panels to the roof. Yes, I cleaned everything well before I taped them on. I also put reflectix over the pads to insulate the heater a bit. My tanks are not enclosed.
EMD360 04/12/16 08:47am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Winnebago Access

I've looked at the Access online and on craiglist, and for used RV, this has been my favorite so far. We have a 2003 Spirit and it seems a lot like the Access models available in recent years--since 2010. I could be wrong about that I don't really follow the model lines. But they brought back the Spirit and it is their entry level coach and I don't think it was in 2003. The Access seems the most like the Spirit we have now which we have really loved and enjoyed.
EMD360 04/12/16 08:42am Class C Motorhomes
Colorado Blizzard

Last week we were planning to take the grandkids down to the Great Sand Dunes to play and hopefully see the Sand Hill Cranes. We were going to stay at the Great Sand Dunes RV Park in Hooper, CO. The morning we were supposed to leave, we were socked in by a blizzard--no really, we went outside and the snow was a white out condition. My daughter brought the kids over and she could not drive home. She walked home when it let up a bit in a couple of hours. After a week of lovely 70 degree weather we were snowed in the day we were scheduled to leave! This is Colorado weather. The RV park was so understanding and despite their policy did not charge us for the last minute cancellation! I'm definitely going back now. We driveway camped and I had to run the electric heater and the heat this week until the temps get back up or I winterize again. At least we got the oil changed, the batteries charged, the lp filled, got it cleaned etc. Maybe by our May campout the snow season will be over. At least we were not out on the road when the snowstorm hit.
EMD360 03/27/16 11:39pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Fiberglass roof maintenance

I had no idea that eternabond was mainly used on rubber roofs. I thought it was used on any penetration and there are plenty on a fiberglass roof. Since Eternabond does not require much maintenance, maybe the title should be Maintenance Free Fiberglass roof. Keeping seams caulked is maintenance. A year or so ago I had a slight cabover leak that seemed to show up only with snow and ice and after recaulking it appeared to go away. I cover it in winter now though as extra insurance.
EMD360 03/22/16 08:25am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Engine battery and house battery questions.

Never thought of trickle charging the chassis battery through the 12 volt port. What a convenient way to keep the chassis battery charged when the RV is plugged in. But what have I missed while not reading rv.net this winter?
EMD360 03/22/16 12:28am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Fiberglass roof maintenance

I used it everywhere I could think to put it up on the roof, in the clearance lights, down the sides in the rear when I had to repair some water damage below our floor. (Never heard of anyone else having damage under the rear overhang!) The tape was preventative and it seems to have worked well. After six years I am getting some wear on the edges of the tape and where there is a ridge underneath it. Today I used some mineral spirits to remove a bit of the tape that had torn due to a rear corner accident and replace it. Mineral spirits also cleans the surface of the tape very well. The caulk would be a good idea. Some of our tape has oozed black at the edges and is unsightly, but if the tape on the roof is doing its job keeping water out, then who cares if it is a bit ugly?
EMD360 03/22/16 12:14am Class C Motorhomes
RE: What did you do to your Class C MH today???

Although it was a mild winter, I've neglected the RV until today. Took off the cover and tried to start it but the battery was dead. Tried to jump start but nothing. Took the Duralast battery into Auto Zone and they charged it for me. Seems to be OK, just so dead it couldn't start even with a jump. They had me return in an hour to pick up the charged battery and I brought it home and reinstalled it. Starts the engine now. I guess it is time to get back to camping...
EMD360 03/21/16 11:30pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Space Heater in Chinook RV

We used a oil filled space heater. They are very safe and inexpensive and do well heating a small space. He might insulate his windows and block off the cab with either bubble wrap or reflectix to help hold the heat in. We were caught temporarily last November by low temps and had to heat ours for a couple of weeks until we could winterize. We used the 30 amp line to a garage outlet and a converter to a 20 amp circuit. Ran more than one heater. One in the bathroom and one in the main room. We were not also living in it though.
EMD360 11/22/15 07:46am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Oops!

I tore off the bracket on ours by sideswiping a construction barrel. I was able to use Eterabond over the opening and then redrill for slightly larger screws. Had to take off our awning to do it and my fix for the awning fabric didn't last. So I have it off for the whole season waiting until I have time to replace the awning fabric. The awning is an option anyway. We seem to camp fine without it. Otherwise enjoy the RV, right? So keep it until you can't go anywhere without worry about breakdowns.
EMD360 11/13/15 10:23am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Who covers there rv for the winter??

Plastic clamps are a great idea. Thanks.
EMD360 11/10/15 08:37am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Buying my first RV tomorrow here she is

From what I have read the blow outs may be linked to improper removal of the original plugs. Apparently the threads can be damaged when the originals are removed and the new ones can't hold properly so they blow out. There were a number of fixes for this depending on the year of your engine. Ours was close to the end of the problem at 2002. I believe that Ford mechanics have special tools now that make this damage less likely to happen.
EMD360 11/10/15 08:30am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Winter cover recommendation

I like ours. It is a PermaPro Heavy Duty cover and it was at a "discount" through Amazon. We have only used it one winter season, and except for a small hole that was rubbed into the bottom by the bumper last year, it looks like it will hold up for many years. I like that it is lightweight ripstop nylon material like a tent. Considering what tents cost, this cover seems like quite a bargain. Just be sure to choose a windless day to put it on!
EMD360 11/08/15 10:21am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Who covers there rv for the winter??

Our cover is a Classic Accessories 80-128-151001-00 Overdrive PermaPro Heavy Duty RV Cover for 20' to 23' Class C RVs ordered through Amazon. We bought it last year and unfortunately wore a hole in the front from the sharp underside of the bumper, even though I tried to cover the sharp edges with tape and bubble wrap. Turns out we had excess material in front which made it difficult to tie and allowed rubbing through the material. This year we pulled the excess to the rear. It seems to result in a much better fit. The former front hole is now at the side over a tire and there appear to be no rubbing points. It gets very windy here in Colorado but there was no problem keeping the cover on and it is relatively easy to access the RV with the many zippers it has on the corners and sides. http://i911.photobucket.com/albums/ac316/EMD360/IMG_4281_zpsni9vbgrf.jpg width=600
EMD360 11/08/15 08:38am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Winterizing Suggestions??

If you are a first timer, taking care of the plumbing even with a list of steps and some video backup is not as easy as it sounds. First time I did it, I left the low point drains open and wasted a whole bottle of antifreeze! Then I could not figure out how to close them as I had forgotten how I opened them--that is they only close in one direction but opening is at a 90 degree angle. This year it went very smoothly so it was just a beginners learning curve. We have a hot water heater bypass which took me awhile to figure out. I remove the plug on our water heater to drain it. First I closed the bypass valve which is under our stove next to the water heater. Then I make sure the water pump is turned off, open the faucets and open the low point drains. Our low point drains are under the shower, kind of a pain to access. The suction for ours is next to our water tank. There is a valve that opens the suction hose. Have to have the pump running and the low point drains closed for the suction. When everything is correctly done on ours, it only takes a half bottle of antifreeze to get all the open faucets to run pink stuff. I close them as they start to run pink so that the antifreeze is forced into the other faucets. When that is done, I put a bit of extra pink in the drain traps, and in the toilet. We also bought a winter cover for ours. Turns out that ours doesn't leak in rain but we did get a leak in the snow and ice. Especially when it was heated inside because I didn't winterize in time. So the cover is an extra layer of protection. I bought ours on Amazon as that is where I found the best price. It is a tent type nylon material that is longer lasting that the tyvec type material. Just put it on this weekend! I didn't put in Sta-bil but now that I have been reminded I probably will. We try to run the generator every month or so but we are not that great at getting out there to do it. Just about everything we do to the RV is rewarding for some reason. Guess we just really like the thing.
EMD360 11/08/15 08:03am Class C Motorhomes
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