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 > Your search for posts made by 'EMD360' found 161 matches.

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RE: Broken Compressor Regulator

Interesting responses--thanks so much. I am a directions reader so do open the air release after each use. I've checked out several of the regulators online and I'm wondering if a similar plastic model for a Black and Decker or DeWalt would have the same inside parts. That would be better than trying to rebuild the manifold which I could see doing with some pipe tees etc. Everything screws into this manifold except the regulator which is built into the manifold. I have a larger Harbor Freight compressor which is one reason I have not used the smaller one very often. I really don't want to trash this one--it is practically brand new. This is kind of a rant too regarding the lack of individual inside parts for this regulator. Since the regulator itself is not replaceable. Would be a pretty inexpensive kit and obviously they break often. In the meantime I CAN use the compressor with the plugged stem piece. Just don't feel like I can rely on it in the field especially.
EMD360 11/28/14 10:56am Class C Motorhomes
Broken Compressor Regulator

I hope its OK to post this in Class C's. It is a followup to the air compressor discussions on this forum. I've posted before that I bought the small form factor DeWalt 135 PSI compressor to take in the RV. I had returned the leaky Black and Decker for the DeWalt--only to find they are the exact same machine. It is only about 2 years old and I've used it literally a handful of times. I just took it out this week as I'm cleaning up the RV for winter. I tried to use it on an inside project and it was leaking like crazy. Pretty disappointing to have a broken $120 compressor. Now this model costs $154 on Amazon. Turns out the regulator is "built to break" in these things and there is no replacement kit! I could buy a whole new manifold for $55, but not the little plastic parts that go in the regulator. http://i911.photobucket.com/albums/ac316/EMD360/CompressorRegulator_zpsd3132578.jpg width=200 Following instruction on the Internet, I took it all apart and greased the o-rings but it still leaked. I tried using pipe dope on the little screw in piece, but it still leaked. I tried leaving the cap off (no pressure on the spring) and it built up pressure but didn't fill the tank. Pushing down on the stem piece let out a stream of air. I didn't know how the regulator actually worked, so I looked up a lot of information about them and learned a bit. Actually cool little devices. My dad used to refer to poppets and never really understood what he was talking about--now I know. Here is the best illustration that I found. http://i911.photobucket.com/albums/ac316/EMD360/SimpleAirRegulator_zpsae424d2a.gif width=200 So I thought I could just plug the middle of the stem part and block the air--I used some sikaflex caulk that I had out for the RV and let it dry a day or two before I tried it. Seemed to fix the leak too. I'm not sure how much air pressure the caulk can take before it starts to leak again. I can't imagine how many of these are ending up in landfills due to a tiny plastic piece that cannot be replaced. Who designed this thing? Who decided not to offer the regulator kit as a $5 replacement?
EMD360 11/26/14 09:04pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Violent front end shaking

This happened to me in our 2006 Ford F250. Scared me pretty good. I was driving about 50 going downhill and braking on a curve. The truck shook like crazy as if the brakes had seized up. I took it in and got a complete brake job--new rotors etc. Then I got a letter from Ford saying be careful, this can happen, we don't have a fix. I just filed it in the round file. Love the big truck, its a workhorse and hopefully it won't happen again.
EMD360 11/26/14 07:27pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Cover for 32'9" Class C

I'm impressed so far with the Perma Pro cover that I ordered from Amazon and arrived today. It takes a few extra days to ship some of the sizes. I ordered it on the 22nd though so that was only 3 days instead of 2. Not bad. I did some internet research comparing the various brands of covers and found that this cover was closer to the higher end--most expensive are the Calmark sunbrella covers--but the PermaPro is in the same ball park--for much less money. I found this comparison helpful. When you think that a good family tent can cost upwards of $500, the PermaPro cover seems like a bargain. It is similar to good tent material, ripstop polyester and warrantied for 4 years. Has the zippers to allow the doors to open and a "throw bag" to get the tie down straps across the rig underneath for cinching it on. The instructions say to cover sharp areas on the RV with tape and I'm thinking of using some extra bubble wrap. The sides are specially constructed so that the mirrors don't have to be folded in. Every tent should come with one of these extendable zippered bags! You have to throw away the bag for most tents or use it for a smaller one, and buy a stuff sack big enough to fit in the tent after it has been unrolled once! I extended the zipper first thing because I thought it was so cool. http://i911.photobucket.com/albums/ac316/EMD360/RV%20Cover/IMG_6267_zpsc705c2fb.jpg width=400 It was windy today and tomorrow is the holiday so I hope to get this on Friday--the weather is supposed to still be warm. I decided to get the cover because I had a cabover leak after the last frigid and snowy spell and someone said snow and ice will leak into even the smallest crack when rain does not seem to. SOOO I'll cover it this year because I can't be sure about my caulking job and I bet I'll wish I had covered it earlier.
EMD360 11/26/14 07:18pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Seat heater-->Tank heater

I am using 120 volt heating pads from Walmart. My tanks are enclosed and I do have a good sized inverter... Unfortunately where I live -40 is quite possible. That is amazing--24 or 40 below in an RV! So you have two 50 watt heaters on each tank? I know 120 is better at heating that 12v but I wanted to be able to use the least amount of power and still have some freeze protection. I had more batteries at one time, but killed all four and now only have one Walmart DC. Don't know how much winter camping we will do. But I wanted to try it. During our warm up last week though, I drained and winterized the plumbing. Didn't want to run electric heaters in there all winter. It may be awhile until I get the tanks insulated. I'm planning to build polyiso boxes for them.
EMD360 11/23/14 09:12pm Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
RE: Seat heater-->Tank heater

I no longer purchase any thing on evil bay... Both craigslist and ebay have fraudulant sellers and there are not many protections for either. But I have found that most people are pretty honest--and can be relied on to represent what they are selling truthfully. But I have heard several horror stories about sales that were never shipped and poorly represented products. More so than retail outlets it is a buyer beware marketplace. I have been burned perhaps, buying a pump that almost instantly needed a rebuild but that may just have been bad luck. Thank goodness for good people though.
EMD360 11/23/14 09:05pm Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
RE: What did you do to your Class C MH today???

Ordered a PermaPro cover to protect from winter storms here in Colorado.
EMD360 11/23/14 08:56pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: New to winter--cabover leaked!

We had a wet spot once, it was condensation, not a leak. I guess it is POSSIBLE that there was condensation under the mattress in the front corner of the cabover. I had heaters cranked up to high to keep the water from freezing and it was REALLY cold outside. The heat would have risen to the cabover and the outside had lots of icicles so it was obvious that heat was escaping there. But my gut says leak. The signs seem to be there--slight cracks in the caulking--edges darker behind the caulk. Blackened wetness in the front corner--mold sure grows fast! Just all the scary stuff that say LEAK! Maybe condensation added to the damage though.
EMD360 11/21/14 07:32am Class C Motorhomes
RE: New to winter--cabover leaked!

As most of you know, shortly after buying my Winnie in 2011, I was greeted with a cabover leak. Stressful in the beginning, I've learned to manage it and it hasn't stopped me from enjoying traveling. Yeah, I've followed your quest to deal with the leak and noticed how difficult it has been to just stop it. I figured we would eventually need to do something more drastic to the cabover to help keep out water. Time is not on our side--but you are right about enjoying the rest of the RV and just having to keep vigilant about the leaks. Easy to lose focus though and be surprised by the water.
EMD360 11/21/14 07:26am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Seat heater-->Tank heater

Well, no, didn't check out the wattage on the actual heaters--good point. I just checked out the price tag! This is radiant heat though so seems like it would work similarly to the hot water kind. Lower heat for a longer time equals higher heat managed by a thermostat. So the real thing is better, no doubt. The seat heater is approximately 1/2 the power of the small UltraHeat which is 6.1 amps-advertised for tanks up to 25 gallons. Also that heater is around $100 plus shipping. So my seat heater is not that great a deal if comparing wattage. I shopped on ebay and the ad said I would get 2 sets but they meant only 2 pads. I had asked first and they said yes, 2 sets. When I got one, I explained that they should change their ad and they sent an extra set--so I got 2 sets for around $40. But that was a fluke. I was thinking of installing the second set on the pump and fresh water tank inside the RV. I'm mindful of all the power being drawn from the batteries too. Creativity is fun--why not experiment? :)
EMD360 11/21/14 06:52am Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
RE: Seat heater-->Tank heater

The dump stations in the parks are closed--Rocky Mountain closed theirs at the end of October. Are flying J dump stations closed in winter too? We can dump at home--have a septic tank and it is kind of a pain to open but it can be done.
EMD360 11/20/14 11:44pm Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
RE: Seat heater-->Tank heater

Just ordered motorcycle grip heaters for the valves for less than $5. At 3 amps and 10 watts, could probably use the same circuit as the seat heater pads which are about 4 amps and 30 watts. Appreciate that the actual tank heaters are thermostatically controlled and some are dual 12 and 120 volts. But they are so much more expensive that I'm hoping I can just turn on a switch to heat and turn it off again when it is above freezing.
EMD360 11/20/14 11:41pm Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
Seat heater-->Tank heater

We have moved to a colder climate and want to figure out how to keep camping despite below freezing temperatures. Need to make modifications in several areas but first was worried about the water supply. I investigated installing tank heaters--ours are exposed. Tank heaters are pretty expensive, but seat heating pads are not--about $40 for a set. So I ordered a set that came with two pads and one controller but no instructions. There were four wires that had to be hooked up--only two were what I expected--red and black. For this project I ordered some good 14 ga. Marine wire but in red and yellow because it was a bit cheaper than red and black. I wired an empty fuse on the electrical box with the yellow to hot and the red to ground. Then I promptly miswired the switch red to red and blew the new fuse! Duh. Correcting that error was simple if counter-intuitive, red to yellow and black to red. But what to do with the green and yellow? I tried wiring them to a switch, thinking that they would normally go to the ignition to turn on only when the car was on, but that was wrong. I ended up finding a car forum that described a similar switch install and the explanation was yellow is the switch wire--shows the amber light in the photo that the pad is turned on and green is the power light--just shows power is available. Both are wired to the hot wire along with the red/yellow power wire. http://i911.photobucket.com/albums/ac316/EMD360/Tank%20Heater/IMG_6254_zpsb3b3ef1d.jpg width=400 The switch is located below the shower tray--in the open area that holds the drain pipes for the plumbing. I drilled the hole to the tank sensors a bit larger and got the connectors through to the tank area. The power wire is routed from the panel in the closet past the vanity in the bathroom through the chase behind the toilet and under the shower. Kind of a pain to pull, but nice that there is a path for the wire. http://i911.photobucket.com/albums/ac316/EMD360/Tank%20Heater/IMG_6255_zps73a84bd6.jpg width=400 The pads are a white paper-like material with two adhesive strips. I cleaned the underside of the tanks well and then peeled off the protective strips and adhered them to the tanks. http://i911.photobucket.com/albums/ac316/EMD360/Tank%20Heater/IMG_6257_zpsdb3eca82.jpg width=400 Not very substantial but I plan to put some insulation board over them to hold in the heat and protect them from the elements. http://i911.photobucket.com/albums/ac316/EMD360/Tank%20Heater/IMG_0170_zpsde709017.jpg width=400 The valve that goes to the gray tank is pretty exposed, but the black tank valve is more protected. I will need to think about how to keep these from freezing too. I think just a little heat will keep the tanks from freezing up especially if I box them in with insulation. The temp of the pads was about 70 degrees with the heat dial turned all the way up. http://i911.photobucket.com/albums/ac316/EMD360/Tank%20Heater/IMG_0166_zps31667701.jpg width=400
EMD360 11/20/14 09:25pm Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
New to winter--cabover leaked!

OK, so I'm new to winters, moving from Arizona to Colorado. This is a game changer. Last winter I drained the water from the RV--tried to blow out the plumbing with a compressor and left it parked for the winter. Seemed to be OK except the pump was dead in spring. I put in a new one and a larger pressure tank. Notice I didn't use the pink stuff--put windshield fluid in the drains--that is what we used to do in a house that we winterized-drain the pipes and put windshield fluid in the drains and toilet traps. This year I was totally surprised by the immediate and steep drop in temps here. I had dumped the tanks and not treated them but had not emptied the fresh water. Yeah, I thought we could fit in one more trip this late fall. So I plugged into a 20 amp outlet and put in two oil heaters and cranked them up so it was pretty HOT inside, opened the couch to circulate by the fresh water tank, opened the cabinets, and then just worried about it until it warmed up the last day or so. Whew--the water is running and the pump is working! Thank goodness--temps got to below zero--about 1 or 2 degrees and most days were in the teens for over a week. I went back to work on the RV today--it is in the 40's now--to complete the winterization and found a wet spot in the upper bunk corner! Yikes--seems the snow and ice seeped into the overhead when just rain had not? I noticed that the outside caulk was looking a bit ragged so on the side that was wet, I stripped it out, cleaned it up with mineral spirits--what I had on hand, and recaulked with sikaflex--that was left over so it was so hard at the tip that I had to cut it off and dig out the stuff in the tube. I used a nail to apply it and smoothed it a bit with my fingers. Kind of an emergency application. Didn't even get to underneath the cabover area though. I hate to see water intrusion--maybe I've been lax this summer with the increase in rain here as well as the cold and snow as winter begins. I have eternabonded the rear corners and wanted to do the front, just have not gotten to it. Maybe I should cover it for winter? We do get very fierce winds here and I couldn't even keep the tire covers on so don't know how a cover would do. Since I was working on other projects before I found the wet spot and then it took me the rest of daylight to caulk the front corner, I will have to drain and do the water tomorrow. I have pink stuff to pump in this year. At least I was lucky that the heaters kept things above freezing inside. Climate can really make a difference! It is an adjustment to keep things working in the cold.
EMD360 11/20/14 08:27pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Snow chains for small class C

I tried on the chains today and they are a bit small for the tires. I could have bought the WS1707 for the same price but opted to believe the manufacturer's site. The main problem is the tensioner--it is only 9" in diameter and don't know how that rubber is supposed to stretch to practically double its size! I tried the chains on the car tires and they are a bit big--but seem like they will work and the tensioners stretch just enough to pull them taut. I ordered the larger QG20069 tensioners today, another $17 invested in the chains now. These are supposed to be for semi's but they are only 15.75 inches in diameter. The "stretch" between the sides of the chains on my tires is about 20" so think the new ones will be less trouble to put on in the cold. On the RV the tensioner looks extremely small: http://i911.photobucket.com/albums/ac316/EMD360/IMG_0172_zps499b521d.jpg width=300 But they hold the chains on the car pretty well. http://i911.photobucket.com/albums/ac316/EMD360/IMG_0171_zps7ab2d625.jpg width=300 These are meant to be put on without having to move the car. There is a cable on the back side that hooks together and the top and bottom are split so that the chains can be attached on the facing side. Then the tensioner holds it all together. They do need to be tightened again after a short drive though. Don't think we will be using them that much just had to have them just in case. Nice that we can take them in the car too.
EMD360 11/20/14 07:47pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Empty Nesters

Bought ours in 09--empty nest, before retirement. Now we are retired and still enjoying the small RV. We did tent camping before and found we were just not getting out as much as we wanted to. So the RV makes camping and hiking so comfortable, we can hardly call it camping! More like vacationing in lovely spots I guess. We intend to keep ours long term and maybe fit in our first snowbird type trip this winter. We are small but still have plenty of room to have the 2 young grandkids along and their parents sometimes. The parents still go out and sleep in a tent but they have the amenities of a warm cup of coffee and bathroom nearby. I can't think of a better recreational purchase we could have made. We have thoroughly enjoyed our RV.
EMD360 11/17/14 09:31pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Snow chains for small class C

There are chain laws in Colorado--although if I understand the rules for non-commercial vehicles right, the M/S designation on the tires is an acceptable alternative to chains. Still I bought these chains from Amazon for possible winter camping here in Colorado. Security Chain WS 1705 Type S The website says they are for smaller vehicles but needed type S because of the dual tires. I did some research that said it was fine to put chains on just the outer rear dualies. Also that chains are only for the worst driving conditions--speed is limited to 25 mph with them on. I have not yet tried to put them on though. Winter took me by surprise here this year! The temperatures went from warm fall to cold winter in literally one day. The Amazon site says they don't fit the E350 but I read that they actually do. They are supposed to fit the Ford F250. The website says they fit the 225/75/16 tire size. WS 1705 from Amazon http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41Zx1D14KvL._SY450_.jpg width=200 Amazon says they are 17.2 lbs and they are pretty heavy. They come in a plastic carrying bag. I guess I better go try them on the tires! Maybe it will finally start warming up again tomorrow.
EMD360 11/17/14 08:45pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: campground leveling

Personally, I like the tri-levelers. http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/61GSXo1%2BUJL._SL1500_.jpg width=200 We can use just the two of them instead of building up the block pyramids--when the front is low, or we can match the tri with a set of yellows to get the dually's leveled. We just find them easier to work with, but we also have a partial set of yellow blocks after wrecking 2 or 3 on asphalt.
EMD360 11/13/14 07:51pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: cargo net for class c overhead bunk bed

Harbor freight usually stocks a bungee type net--I bought one there some time ago.
EMD360 11/13/14 07:44pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Soon to be owner..maybe!

You want it, nobody else will buy this fall--chances are and with a 98/97? Old and the price is just OK. What is an 18 year old car worth? Then translate that to the RV chassis. You don't have a lot of choice in your area and if it meets your needs, stay interested, but don't rush into it. Dirty? Is the carpet stained? How do you know the cabover is not rotten? What about the back panel? Did you look underneath? I mean on your back? How rusty is it? How well do the tank levers work? Any signs of leaks? Dark spots on the tanks etc. What are the tire codes? Could it be a 97 chassis and a 98 model RV? How many owners? State of the roof? Did you do the free check on the VIN number? I have friends who bought a Coachman of about that vintage and found they had LOTS of leaks in a downpour. Mentioned they might need a new roof. What will you do with it if it is in worse shape than you think? Have you had it checked out by a mechanic? Do the brakes have to be completely fixed? Bought a truck last year that needed new rotors this year and along with a check engine light problem with the fuel system cost me $1800. You said you have a lot of experience with older RV's so this may be worry about nothing. We knew nothing when we bought our RV but have had pretty good luck with it so hope you get lucky too!
EMD360 11/09/14 11:53pm Class C Motorhomes
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